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Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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ADD ON Children’s Phoebe Party Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This pattern add on elevates your Phoebe Party Dress. There are five separate bottom options including a high-low fishtail skirt, three-tiered maxi dress, double layered high-low skirt, maxi and knee-length pencil skirts, and a jumpsuit, plus optional shoulder ruffles ensuring there is something to suit every style. As this is an add on, you will need the Children’s Phoebe Party Dress pattern to use it.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct hip measurement. Then, grade out or in, to the correct waist size.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different. If your child falls into a different size for height, check the rise and inseam finished measurements against your child’s inseam to find the correct size for their height. Blend the two patterns together keeping the size that best fits your child’s waist and hip measurements for the width, and the size needed for their height for the length of the leg pieces.
- Crotch fitting – Pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the X fork. For back creases do the same from the back waistline to the X fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add to the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Nappies – The Jumpsuit has been drafted to fit ages 12-24 months wearing nappies. If your child wears cloth nappies and/or is older and wearing nappies, you will need to adjust the rise of your Front and Back Leg pieces by adding into it. Check the rise measurements above against your child’s rise measurements. Cut into the rise of your pattern pieces and spread the pattern, adding into it by the amount you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Follow this tutorial for any further fitting advice.
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct hip measurement. Then, grade out or in, to the correct waist size.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different. If your child falls into a different size for height, check the Skirt Length finished measurements to find the correct size for their height. Grade the skirt pieces to that size height, keeping to the size your child best fits into for waist and hip measurements.
- Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice / old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments.
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct hip measurement. Then, grade out or in, to the correct waist size.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different. If your child falls into a different size for height, check the Skirt Length finished measurements to find the correct size for their height. Grade the skirt pieces to that size height, keeping to the size your child best fits into for waist and hip measurements.
- Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice / old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments.
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct hip measurement. Then, grade out or in, to the correct waist size.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different. If your child falls into a different size for height, check the Skirt Length finished measurements to find the correct size for their height. Grade the skirt pieces to that size height, keeping to the size your child best fits into for waist and hip measurements.
- Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice / old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments.
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct hip measurement. Then, grade out or in, to the correct waist size.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different. If your child falls into a different size for height, check the Skirt Length finished measurements to find the correct size for their height. Grade the skirt pieces to that size height, keeping to the size your child best fits into for waist and hip measurements.
- Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice / old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments.
- OPTIONAL Loop Turner to turn out the Back Tie.
- From the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern – Plunging Neckline Bodice option OR Bodice with Modesty Panels option
- From this Add-on – Jumpsuit pattern pieces
- Bodice pieces as per main Phoebe Party Dress pattern
- Front Leg – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Leg – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- From the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern – Plunging Neckline Bodice option OR Bodice with Modesty Panels option
- From this Add-on – Pencil Skirt pattern pieces
- Bodice pieces as per main Phoebe Party Dress pattern
- Front Skirt – cut 1 on fold
- Back Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- From the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern – Plunging Neckline Bodice option OR Bodice with Modesty Panels option
- From this Add-on – High-Low Fishtail Skirt pattern pieces
- Bodice pieces as per main Phoebe Party Dress pattern
- Front Skirt – cut 1 on fold
- Back Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)
- Front Frill – cut 1 on fold
- Back Frill – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)
- From the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern – Plunging Neckline Bodice option OR Bodice with Modesty Panels option
- From this Add-on – Double Layer High-Low Skirt pattern pieces
- Bodice pieces as per main Phoebe Party Dress pattern
- Inner Layer (longer cut line):
- Center Front Skirt – cut 1 on fold.
- Side Front Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)
- Center Back Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)
- Side Back Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)
- Outer Layer (shorter cut line):
- Center Front Skirt – cut 1 on fold.
- Side Front Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)
- Center Back Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)
- Side Back Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)
- Lining:
- Front Skirt Lining – cut 1 on fold.
- Back Skirt Lining – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- From the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern – Plunging Neckline Bodice option OR Bodice with Modesty Panels option
- From this Add-on – Three-Tiered Skirt pattern pieces
- Bodice pieces as per main Phoebe Party Dress pattern
- Front Skirt – cut 1 on fold
- Back Skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Tier 1 – cut 2 on fold
- Tier 2 – cut 2 on fold
- From the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern – Plunging Neckline Bodice option OR Bodice with Modesty Panels option
- From this Add-on – Shoulder Ruffle pieces
- And either Skirt option from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern, or any of Option A – E.
- Shoulder Ruffle – cut 2 on fold
- From the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern – Plunging Neckline Bodice option OR Bodice with Modesty Panels option
- From this Add-on – Back Tie pieces
- And either Skirt option from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern, or any of Option A-E.
- Back Tie – cut 2
Project OverviewPhoebe Party Dress Add-On
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This is an add-on to the Phoebe Party Dress. You will need the Phoebe Party Dress pattern, as well as this pattern in order to be able to make the options in this pattern.
The layout to this add-on is different than the Main Pattern.
First, decide which option you wish to make, then follow the instructions within that section.
The Options
The options contained within this Add-On are as follows:
Option A: Jumpsuit
A slim leg trouser with front darts adding shape at the waist. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, you will need both the Bodice pattern pieces and instructions from the main pattern, along with the Jumpsuit pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on.
Option B: Pencil Skirt
This pencil skirt creates the perfect silhouette with front waist darts and a kick pleat at the back. Choose between knee or maxi length. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, you will need both the Pencil Skirt pattern pieces from this Add-on, and the bodice pieces & instructions from the main pattern.
Option C: High-Low Fishtail Skirt
A pencil skirt shape from the waist with front darts and a high-low fishtail bottom tier. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress Pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, you will need both the High-Low Fishtail Skirt pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on, and the Bodice pattern pieces and instructions from the main pattern.
Option D: Double Layer High-Low Skirt
A double layered lined, soft flowing high-low skirt that is gathered at the waist and attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress Pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, both the Double Layer High-Low Skirt pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on, and the Bodice pieces and the instructions from the main pattern are needed.
Option E: Three-Tiered Skirt
Two gathered bottom tiers creating a flowy silhouette. The top of the skirt is slightly fitted at the hips with front and back darts for shaping. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress Pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, both the Three-Tiered Skirt pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on, and the Bodice pieces and the instructions from the main pattern are needed.
Option F: Shoulder Ruffle
A gathered ruffle around the armscye of the bodice. This attaches to both bodice options (excluding side modesty panels) from the Phoebe Party Dress Pattern. You can also add the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, you will need both the Bodice pattern pieces and instructions from the main pattern, along with the Shoulder Ruffle pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on. If you are adding the Shoulder Ruffle to the Bodice with modesty panels, you will only be able to add the Center Front Panel. The Ruffle overlaps at the bottom of the armscye and will not work with the Side Panel, nor is it needed as the Shoulder Ruffle will cover this area.
You can attach this completed Bodice to either Skirt options from the main pattern or any of Options A-E above.
Option G: Back Tie
A thin strap attached to each side of the back of the bodice, sitting across the shoulders. This can be tied into a bow for a beautiful finish. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress pattern and can also be used with the Shoulder Ruffle from Option F.
To complete this option, you will need both the Bodice pattern pieces and instructions from the main pattern, along with the Back Tie pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on.
You can attach this completed Bodice to either Skirt options from the main pattern or any of Options A-E above.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
The sizing is the same as the main pattern. Seam allowances are also the same.
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Option A – Jumpsuit
Front Rise
Back Rise
Inseam
Thigh Circum-
ference
Calf
12 – 18 mos
4.5
7.7
15.0
15.0
11.3
18 – 24 mos
5.0
8.0
16.0
15.3
11.6
2 – 3 yrs
5.2
8.3
16.0
16.0
12.0
3 – 4 yrs
5.5
8.6
17.0
16.6
12.5
5 – 6 yrs
6.0
9.0
19.6
17.5
12.7
7 – 8 yrs
6.3
9.5
22.0
18.5
13.0
9 – 10 yrs
6.6
10.0
25.0
19.3
13.2
11 – 12 yrs
7.0
10.3
28.3
20.3
13.5
Option B – Pencil Skirt
Waist
Hips
Knee length skirt
Maxi length skirt
12 – 18 mos
20.5
25.0
12.0
18.3
18 – 24 mos
21.5
25.6
13.1
19.2
2 – 3 yrs
23.0
26.6
14.6
22.5
3 – 4 yrs
24.0
27.6
17.0
26.2
5 – 6 yrs
25.0
29.3
19.0
29.5
7 – 8 yrs
26.0
31.0
20.5
32.0
9 – 10 yrs
27.0
33.0
21.6
33.5
11 – 12 yrs
28.0
35.0
23.0
36.0
Option C – High-Low Fishtail Skirt
Skirt Length
Front
Back
12 – 18 mos
17.0
20.5
18 – 24 mos
18.3
22.0
2 – 3 yrs
19.5
23.0
3 – 4 yrs
20.2
23.5
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
24.1
7 – 8 yrs
21.5
25.0
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
26.2
11 – 12 yrs
24.2
27.6
Option D – Double Layer High-Low Skirt
Lining
Outer Skirt
Inner Skirt
Skirt length
Front length
Back length
Front length
Back length
12 – 18 mos
6.0
6.5
13.3
8.5
15.7
18 – 24 mos
6.6
7.3
14.5
9.5
16.6
2 – 3 yrs
10.0
10.6
17.7
12.7
20.0
3 – 4 yrs
13.7
14.3
21.5
16.5
23.6
5 – 6 yrs
17.0
18.0
25.0
20.0
27.0
7 – 8 yrs
19.3
20.0
27.1
22.1
29.2
9 – 10 yrs
21.0
22.0
29.0
24.0
31.0
11 – 12 yrs
23.5
24.1
31.2
26.2
33.3
Option E – Three-Tiered Skirt
Skirt Length
12 – 18 mos
19.0
18 – 24 mos
19.7
2 – 3 yrs
23.0
3 – 4 yrs
26.3
5 – 6 yrs
30.2
7 – 8 yrs
32.7
9 – 10 yrs
34.1
11 – 12 yrs
36.3
Fitting NotesOption A – Jumpsuit
Follow all the fitting notes from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern for the Bodice fit. This jumpsuit has a slim leg fit and finishes at the ankle.
Option B – Pencil Skirt
Follow all the fitting notes from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern for the Bodice fit. This Skirt is loose fitting over the hips to allow for movement, with front and back darts to add shape at the waist.
Option C – High-Low Fishtail Skirt
Follow all the fitting notes from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern for the Bodice fit. This Skirt is loose fitting over the hips, with front and back darts to add shape at the waist. The Fishtail Frill is added onto the bottom of the Skirt, creating a mermaid shape.
Option D – Double Layer High-Low Skirt
Follow all the fitting notes from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern for the Bodice fit. This Skirt is slightly fitted over the hips, with front and back darts to add shape at the waist. The Fishtail Frill is added onto the top Skirt, creating a mermaid shape.
Option E – Three-Tiered Skirt
Follow all the fitting notes from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern for the Bodice fit. This Skirt is loose fitting over the hips, with front and back darts to add shape at the waist. The two Tiers are gathered into the top Skirt.
Option F – Shoulder Ruffle
Follow all the fitting notes from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern for the Bodice fit.
Option G – Back Tie
Follow all the fitting notes from the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern for the Bodice fit and the fitting notes for the option skirt/jumpsuit you have chosen.
Materials and ToolsSee the fabric suggestions within the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern. The fabric requirements and finished garment measurements are listed for each option below.
Option A – Jumpsuit
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Jumpsuit
12 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 6 yrs
1.00
7 – 10 yrs
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Jumpsuit
12 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 6 yrs
1.00
7 – 10 yrs
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option B – Pencil Skirt
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabric as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Knee length
Maxi length
12 – 18 mos
0.75
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
2.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
2.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
2.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
2.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
2.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
2.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Knee length
Maxi length
12 – 18 mos
0.75
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
1.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
1.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
1.25
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option C – High-Low Fishtail Skirt
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
12 – 18 mos
1.00
18 – 24 mos
1.25
2 – 8 yrs
1.25
9 – 12 yrs
1.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
12 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 4 yrs
1.00
5 – 12 yrs
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option D – Double Layer High-Low Skirt
You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern. You can use the same lining fabric type as you use for your bodice.
You will need a lightweight fabric which is gathered on top of the lining. Recommended fabrics are tulle, bridal tulle, chiffon, georgette, organza, or any other very light weight woven fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
Skirt Lining
12 – 18 mos
3.00
1.00
18 – 24 mos
3.25
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
4.00
1.00
3 – 4 yrs
5.25
1.00
5 – 6 yrs
6.50
1.25
7 – 8 yrs
8.00
1.50
9 – 10 yrs
8.50
1.50
11 – 12 yrs
9.50
1.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
Skirt Lining
12 – 18 mos
2.50
0.50
18 – 24 mos
2.50
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
3.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
4.50
1.00
5 – 6 yrs
5.00
1.00
7 – 8 yrs
5.50
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
5.50
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
6.50
1.50
Fabric Requirements 108 inches / 275 cm wide (in YARDS)
Tulle Skirt
12 – 24 mos
1.75
2 – 3 yrs
2.25
3 – 4 yrs
2.50
5 – 6 yrs
3.00
7 – 10 yrs
3.25
11 – 12 yrs
3.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option E – Three-Tiered Skirt
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
12 – 24 mos
2.00
2 – 6 yrs
2.00
7 – 8 yrs
2.25
9 – 12 yrs
2.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
12 – 24 mos
2.00
2 – 8 yrs
2.00
9 – 12 yrs
2.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option F – Shoulder Ruffle
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Ruffle
12 mos – 12 yrs
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Ruffle
12 mos – 12 yrs
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option G – Back Tie
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Back Tie
12 mos – 12 yrs
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Back Tie
12 mos – 12 yrs
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pencil Skirt Knee Length Maxi Length Jumpsuit High Low Fish Tails Skirt Double Layer High Low Skirt Three-Tiered Skirt Sleeve Frill Tie 12 – 18 mos 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19 5-6, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-9, 23-24, 38-39, 53-55 10-13, 25-28, 29-30, 43-45, 55-60, 70-72, 81-84, 88-89, 96-98, 103-104 62-65, 79-80, 92-95 16, 31, 46, 61 98-101 18 – 24 mos 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19 5-6, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-9, 23-24, 38-39, 53-55 10-13, 25-30, 43-45, 55-60, 70-72, 81-84, 87-89, 96-98, 103-104 62-65, 79-80, 92-95 16, 31, 46, 61 98-101 2 – 3 yrs 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 5-6, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-9, 23-24, 38-39, 53-55 10-13, 25-30, 43-45, 55-60, 69-72, 81-90, 96-98, 103-104 49-50, 62-65, 77-80, 92-95 16, 31, 46, 61 98-101 3 – 4 yrs 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 5-6, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-9, 22-24, 37-39, 53-55 10-12, 25-30, 40-45, 55-60, 67-75, 81-90, 96-98, 103-105 49-50, 62-65, 77-80, 92-95 16, 31, 46, 61 98-101 5 – 6 yrs 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 5-7, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 7-10, 22-25, 37-40, 53-55 10-15, 25-30, 40-45, 55-60, 66-75, 81-91, 96-98, 103-105 49-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 98-101 7 – 8 yrs 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 2-4, 17-19, 32-34, 47-49 5-7, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 7-10, 22-25, 37-40, 53-55, 69 10-15, 25-30, 40-45, 55-60, 66-76, 81-91, 96-98, 101-106, 49-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 98-101 9 – 10 yrs 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 2-4, 17-19, 32-34, 47-49 5-7, 20-22, 35-37, 50-52 7-10, 22-25, 37-40, 53-55, 69 10-15, 25-30, 40-45, 55-60, 66-76, 81-91, 96-98, 100-106 49-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 98-101 11 – 12 yrs 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 2-4, 17-19, 32-34, 47-49 4-7, 20-22, 35-37, 50-52 7-10, 22-25, 37-40, 53-55, 68-70 10-15, 25-30, 40-45, 55-60, 66-76, 81-91, 96-98, 100-107 49-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 98-101 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Pencil Skirt Knee Length Maxi Length Jumpsuit High Low Fish Tails Skirt Double Layer High Low Skirt Three-Tiered Skirt Sleeve Frill Tie 12 – 18 mos 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19 5-6, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-10, 23-25, 38-39, 53-55 10-13, 25-31, 43-46, 55-60, 70-72, 81-84, 87-89, 97-98, 102 50, 62-65, 80, 92-93, 95 16, 31, 46 47-49 18 – 24 mos 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19 5-6, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-10, 23-25, 38-40, 53-55 10-13, 25-31, 43-46, 55-60, 70-72, 81-84, 86-89, 97-98, 102 50, 62-65, 80, 92-93, 95 16, 31, 46 47-49 2 – 3 yrs 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 5-6, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-10, 23-25, 38-40, 53-55 10-13, 25-31, 43-46, 55-61, 70-72, 81-84, 86-89, 97-98, 102-103 50-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 47-49 3 – 4 yrs 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 5-6, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-10, 23-25, 38-40, 53-55 10-13, 25-31, 40-41, 43-46, 56-61, 66-75, 81-90, 97-98, 102-104 50-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 47-49 5 – 6 yrs 2-4, 17-19 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 5-7, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-10, 23-25, 38-40, 53-55 10-16, 25-31, 40-46, 56-61, 66-76, 81-90, 97-98, 101-104 50-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 47-49 7 – 8 yrs 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 2-4, 17-19, 32-34, 47-49 5-7, 20-22, 35-37, 51-52 8-10, 23-25, 38-40, 53-55 10-16, 25-31, 40-46, 56-61, 66-76, 81-90, 97-98, 100-104 50-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 47-49 9 – 10 yrs 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 2-4, 17-19, 32-34, 47-49 5-7, 20-22, 35-38, 51-53 8-10, 23-25, 38-40, 53-55 10-16, 25-31, 40-46, 56-61, 66-76, 81-91, 97-98, 99-105 50-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 47-49 11 – 12 yrs 2-4, 17-19, 32-34 2-4, 17-19, 32-34, 47-49 5-7, 20-22, 35-38, 51-53 8-10, 22-25, 38-40, 53-55 10-16, 25-31, 40-46, 51-54, 56-61, 66-76, 81-91, 97-98, 99-105 50-51, 62-66, 77-81, 92-96 16, 31, 46, 61 47-49 Cutting InstructionsOption A – Jumpsuit
Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Pattern Pieces:
Cutting Checklist:
Option B – Pencil Skirt
Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Pattern Pieces:
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Option C – High-Low Fishtail Skirt
Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Pattern Pieces:
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Option D – Double Layer High-Low Skirt
Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Pattern Pieces:
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Option E – Three-Tiered Skirt
Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Pattern Pieces:
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Tier 1
Tier 2
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
27.0
7.2
36.6
8.7
18 – 24 mos
28.0
7.2
37.2
8.7
2 – 3 yrs
28.6
7.2
38.0
8.7
3 – 4 yrs
29.7
7.2
38.6
8.7
5 – 6 yrs
31.7
7.2
40.1
8.7
7 – 8 yrs
33.7
7.2
41.6
8.7
9 – 10 yrs
35.7
7.2
43.1
8.7
11 – 12 yrs
37.7
7.2
44.6
8.7
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Option F – Shoulder Ruffle
Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Pattern Pieces:
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Option G – Back Tie
Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Pattern Pieces:
Back Tie (Cut 2)
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
2.0
20.3
18 – 24 mos
2.0
20.5
2 – 3 yrs
2.0
20.7
3 – 4 yrs
2.0
20.9
5 – 6 yrs
2.0
21.1
7 – 8 yrs
2.0
21.3
9 – 10 yrs
2.0
21.5
11 – 12 yrs
2.0
21.7
Cutting Checklist:
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric.
- STAY STITCHING – Stay stitch both Front Legs and Back Legs.
- DARTS – Mark and stitch the darts on the Front Legs.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Stitch the Front Rise and Back Rise using French seams.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch the side seam using French Seams.
- INSEAM – Stitch the Inseam using a French seam.
- BODICE – From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice. Then choose step 2 for the plunge neckline option OR step 3 for the modesty panel option. Then follow step 4 for the Waistband.
- ATTACHING BODICE TO TROUSERS – From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7.
- HEM – From the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 8 or 10.
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric.
- STAY STITCHING – Stay stitch the Center Front and both Center Back Skirts.
- DARTS – Mark and stitch the darts on the Front Skirt.
- SIDE SEAMS AND CENTER BACK SEAM – Stitch the side seams and center back seam using French Seams.
- BODICE – From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice. Then choose step 2 for the plunge neckline option OR step 3 for the modesty panel option. Then follow step 4 for the Waistband.
- ATTACHING BODICE TO SKIRT – From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7. When finishing the back seam, clip into each side of the seam allowance, 1-inch above the top of the kick pleat.
- KICK PLEAT – Fold the edge of the kick pleat ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Fold another ¼ inch, press, pin and topstitch. Repeat for the other side. Pin the kick pleat right sides together. Run a basting stitch starting 1 inch down from the center back seam stitching. Stitch approximately 1 inch above the end of your center back seam until you reach the top of your basting stitches. Pivot and stitch across the top of the kick pleat. Wrong side facing up, fold the kick pleat to the right and press. Baste the top of your kick pleat to the Skirt. Right side facing up, stitch directly over the basting stitches. Remove all your basting stitches.
- HEM – Turn the hem ¼ inch toward the wrong side and press. Repeat. Pin and topstitch.
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric.
- STAY STITCHING – Stay stitch the Front and Back Skirt pieces.
- DARTS – Mark and stitch the darts on the Front Skirt.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch the side seams using French Seams.
- FISHTAIL FRILL – Stitch the side seams of the Back and Front Frills using French Seams. Stitch the top edge of the Frill to the bottom edge of the Skirt using French Seams. Stitch the center back seam using French Seams.
- BODICE – From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice. Then choose step 2 for the plunge neckline option OR step 3 for the modesty panel option. Then follow step 4 for the Waistband.
- ATTACHING BODICE TO SKIRT – From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7.
- HEM – From the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 8 or 10.
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric.
- STAY STITCHING – Stay stitch the Center Front Skirt, Center Back Skirt, Side Front Skirts, Side Back Skirts, Front Skirt and Back Skirt Lining.
- LAYER SKIRT PANELS – Use French seams to stitch in the following order: Center Back Skirt, Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Side Back Skirt, and then Center Back Skirt.
- SKIRT LINING – Stitch Front and Back Skirt lining together at the side seams and center back seam, using a French seam.
- ATTACH SKIRT LAYERS – Place Inner Skirt over Skirt lining, right sides facing out, matching seams. Gather to fit and baste. Place Outer Skirt over Inner Skirt, right sides facing out, matching seams. Gather to fit. Baste all three layers at waist.
- BODICE – From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice. Then choose step 2 for the plunge neckline option OR step 3 for the modesty panel option. Then follow step 4 for the Waistband.
- ATTACHING BODICE TO SKIRT – From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7.
- HEM – From the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 8 or 10. You will hem all three skirt layers.
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric.
- STAY STITCHING – Stay stitch the Front Skirt and Back Skirts.
- DARTS – Mark and stitch the darts on the Front Skirt.
- SIDE SEAMS AND CENTER BACK SEAM – Stitch the side seams and center back seam using French Seams.
- BODICE – From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice. Then choose step 2 for the plunge neckline option OR step 3 for the modesty panel option. Then follow step 4 for the Waistband.
- ATTACHING BODICE TO SKIRT – From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7.
- TIERS – Using French Seams, stitch the side seams of each Tier together. Stitch gathering stitches at the top of each Tier piece. Mark quarter points on the gathered edge of the Tier 2 and the bottom of the Tier 1. Place Tier 1 inside Tier 2 matching the quarter points. Gather the Tier 2 to fit the Tier 1, then stitch. Finish the raw edge. Repeat to attach Tier 1 to Skirt.
- HEM – From the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 8 or 10.
- BODICE – From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice. Then choose step 2 for the plunge neckline option OR step 3 for the modesty panel option. Then follow step 4 for the Waistband.
- SHOULDER RUFFLE – Gather stitch each side of the Ruffle. Align Ruffle to Bodice right sides together and gather to fit. Fold Ruffle in half and gather to fit. Baste. Repeat for other Ruffle. Follow steps 2.8 to 2.12 from the main pattern tutorial to complete the Plunge Neckline Bodice OR follow steps 3.6 to 3.14 for the Modesty Panel Bodice. Then continue from step 3.19 to complete the Bodice. The Ruffle will be sandwiched between the main and Bodice lining.
- DRESS/JUMPSUIT – Follow step 4 from main pattern for the Waistband, then complete your Dress/Jumpsuit with your chosen Skirt/Trouser.
- BACK TIES – Stitch Back Tie in half length ways, right sides together. Trim seam allowance and press. Turn right side out. Baste to Back Bodice. Repeat for the other Tie.
- BODICE – From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice. Then choose step 2 for the plunge neckline option OR step 3 for the modesty panel option.
- DRESS/JUMPSUIT – Follow step 4 from the main pattern for the Waistband, then complete your Dress/Jumpsuit with your chosen Skirt/Trouser.
Quick Glance Cheat SheetOption A – Jumpsuit
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
Option B – Pencil Skirt
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
Option C – High-Low Fishtail Skirt
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
Option D – Double Layer High-Low Skirt
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
Option E – Three-Tiered Skirt
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
Option F – Shoulder Ruffle
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Sewing –
Option G – Back Tie
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . Staystitching1.1Staystitch each of the Front Leg pieces, at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the trousers won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about while sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the Bodice.
1.2Staystitch each of the Back Leg pieces, at the waist in the direction of the arrows.
2 . Darts2.0There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
2.1Lay one of the Front Leg pieces wrong side up on your ironing board.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with the fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.
Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep the pins in place.
Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As each new pin is placed, remove the old pin. The pattern piece should now be able to be lifted out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.
Draw the dart in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.
2.2With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.
Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.
TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand. Check that the knot is very secure, then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.
2.3Press the dart toward the side seam.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the dart on the other Front Leg.
3 . Front and Back Rise3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front Legs right sides together, serge the center front seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the Back Legs, serging the center back seam. Skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the front and back rise. This seam will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
3.1With wrong sides together (right sides facing out), pin the Front Leg pieces together along the center front seam.
Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.2Trim the seam allowance in half and carefully clip into the curve.
TIP – The clipping will help the seam lay flat when finished but take care not to go too close to the seam when clipping.
3.3Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
Stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the back rise on the Back Leg pieces.
4 . Side Seams4.0NOTE – The jumpsuit side seams are not identical lengths. The trouser edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the trousers look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams.
That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the trouser side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.
You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your trousers out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the jumpsuit is complete, then hang the jumpsuit from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the trousers is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Legs right sides together and serge down each side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
4.1Place the Front and Back Legs wrong sides together (right sides facing out) and pin along each side seam.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
4.3Turn the Trouser so right sides are together, wrong sides facing up, and press.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat on the other side seam.
5 . Inseam5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you would like to use the serger to finish your trouser hem, it’s easiest to serge the trouser hems now before serging the inseam. Serge the raw edges without removing the seam allowance. Then, with right sides of the Trousers together, serge the inseam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
5.1With wrong sides together stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim, turn, and press.
With right sides together, stitch again at ¼ inch.
NOTE – It can be quite difficult to press the trouser crotch seam, especially on the smaller sizes. Just press as much as you can. The very inside of the crotch can’t be seen on the finished garment so it doesn’t matter if you can’t get all the way in there. Often just pinching it with your fingertips is enough.
6 . Bodice6.0From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice.
PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 2.
MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3.
Then follow step 4 from the main pattern for the Waistband.
7 . Attaching Bodice to Trousers7.0From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7.
8 . Hem8.0FIT CHECK – Try the Jumpsuit on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 8 or 10 for hemming options.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . Staystitching1.1Staystitch the Front Skirt and two Back Skirt pieces at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.
2 . Darts2.0There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to the fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
2.1Lay a Front Skirt piece wrong side up on your ironing board.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.
NOTE – The images shown are for illustrative purposes only. This is not the pattern piece for the Pencil Skirt.
Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.
Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.
Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.
2.2With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.
Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.
TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand. Check that the knot is very secure, then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.
2.3Carefully press your waist dart toward the outside edge of the Front Skirt.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 for the dart on the other side of the Front Skirt.
3 . Side Seams and Center Back Seam3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the Back to the Front, right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down each side seam. Repeat for opposite side seam and centre back seam.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the side seams. This seam will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
3.1With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Back to the Front, along the side seams.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
3.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
3.4Stitch again approximately ¼ inch.
Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Repeat for the opposite side seam and the center back seam.
4 . Bodice4.0From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice.
PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 2.
MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3.
Then follow step 4 from the main pattern for the Waistband.
5 . Attaching Bodice to Skirt5.0From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7. When finishing the back seam, clip into each side of the seam allowance, 1-inch above the top of the kick pleat.
6 . Kick Pleat6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge the edge of the kick pleat. Then turn under ¼ inch, press and topstitch in place. Repeat for the other side of the kick pleat. Then skip to step 6.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Finish the edge of the kick pleat by folding the edge ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
6.2Fold another ¼ inch and topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat 6.1 to 6.2 for the other side of the skirt.
6.3Take each side of the Kick Pleat and pin right sides together.
Run a basting stitch starting 1 inch down from the center back seam stitching. The basting stitch should go straight down from the Center Back Seam stitching line.
6.4Stitch approximately 1 inch above the end of the center back seam until reaching the top of the basting stitches. Pivot and sew across the top of the Kick Pleat. Remember to back stitch at the start and end of your stitching.
6.5With the wrong side of the skirt facing up, fold the kick pleat to the right and press.
6.6Baste the top of the Kick Pleat to the skirt. Stitch directly on top of the stitching from step 6.4.
Make sure that the front of the skirt is moved out of the way, and only sew through the Back of the skirt.
NOTE – These basting stitches will be used as a guide when sewing from the right side in the next step.
6.7From the right side of the skirt, stitch directly over the basting stitches, created in step 6.6, across the top of the kick pleat.
Remove all your basting stitches.
7 . Hem7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hem edge. Then turn under 1 inch, press and topstitch in place.
NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow below.
7.1Open out the kick pleat and fold the hem of the skirt to the wrong side ½ inch and press.
7.2Fold another ½ inch, press and pin
7.3Topstitch the entire way around the skirt along the folded edge.
OPTIONAL – If an invisible hem is desired; we recommend a blind hem. This will give the dress a professional finish. A blind hem can be sewn by hand or a sewing machine if you have the correct stitch and blind hem foot. Follow step 10 from the main pattern tutorial.
7.4Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Kick Pleat to the hem. The fabric will be folded under ½ inch, with the stitching along the folded edge.
Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the hem to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.
The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
7.5Directly across from the starting point, in the edge of the kick pleat, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.
7.6Insert the needle into the hem, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.
7.7Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the kick pleat and pull the thread through. Continue to stitch along, alternating from the kick pleat and the hem. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.
When you reach the end of the skirt, knot the thread.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . Staystitching1.1Staystitch the front skirt at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Stitch in the same direction of the arrows in the photo (from the center front towards the shoulders)
NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.
1.2Staystitch the two back pieces in the direction of the arrows.
1.3Staystitch the Front and Back Frill pieces in the direction of the arrows.
2 . Darts2.0There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
2.1Lay a Front Skirt wrong side up on your ironing board.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.
NOTE – The images shown are for illustrative purposes only. This is not the pattern piece for the High-Low Fishtail Skirt.
Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.
Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.
Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.
2.2With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.
Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.
TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.
2.3Carefully press your waist darts toward the outside edge of the Front Skirt.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 for the dart on the other side.
3 . Side Seams3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt, right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down each side seam. Skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt panels together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. Follow the steps below.
3.1With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt, along the side seams.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
3.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
3.4Stitch again approximately ¼ inch.
Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 for the opposite side seam.
4 . Fishtail4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Frill right sides together at the side seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back. Repeat for the other side seam. Align top edge of Frill with bottom edge of Skirt, matching side seams. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. With right sides together, stitch the centre back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
4.1With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Front and Back Frill together at the side seam.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.
4.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
4.4Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Trim the extra fabric at the seam.
4.5Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for the second side seam.
4.6With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Frill and the Skirt together at the seam.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.7Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.
4.8Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
4.9Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Repeat steps 4.6 to 4.9 to stitch the center back seam together.
5 . Bodice5.0From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice.
PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 2.
MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3.
Then follow step 4 from the main pattern for the Waistband.
6 . Attaching Bodice to Skirt6.0From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7.
7 . Hem7.0FIT CHECK – Try the dress on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 8 to 10 for hemming options.
NOTE – If you are doing step 8, As this is a very circular skirt you may find it easier to follow step 8.1. Then stitch in place and press. Then fold another ⅓ inch and pin. Stitch and press.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors’ chalk.
1 . Staystitching1.1Staystitch the center front skirt at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Stitch in the same direction of the arrows in the photo (from the center front towards each side seam).
NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the Bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the Bodice.
1.2Staystitch all four Side Front and Back Skirts, and the two Center Back Skirts, in the direction of the arrows.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 for the second layer of Skirt pieces.
2 . Layer Skirt Panels2.0From the Main Pattern Instructions, follow steps 5.1 to 5.11 to stitch the first layer. Repeat for the second layer.
3 . Skirt Lining3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place a Back Skirt Lining onto the Front Skirt Lining, right sides together, at the side seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back. Repeat for the other Back Skirt Lining at the side seam and the centre back seam. Skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use French seams to stitch the Skirt Lining pieces together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
3.1With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Front and Back Skirt Lining pieces together at the side seam.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.
3.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
3.4Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Trim the extra fabric at the seam.
3.5Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 to attach the other Back Skirt Lining to the Front Skirt Lining at the side seam.
Then repeat to stitch the center back seam.
4 . Attach Skirt Layers4.1Place the Inner Skirt (longer) over the Skirt Lining, both right sides facing out. Match the side seams and center back seams. Pin.
4.2Gently pull on both bobbin threads to gather the Inner Skirt, until it matches up with the top edge of the Skirt Lining. Pin.
Spread the gathered stitches out gently with your fingers so that it is evenly gathered.
4.3Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
4.4Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3, placing the Outer Skirt (shorter) over the Inner Skirt (longer), aligning side seams and center back seams. You will now have three Skirt layers together: Outer, Inner and Lining. Baste all three layers together along the waist edge.
5 . Bodice5.0From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice.
PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3.
MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 4.
Then follow step 5 from the main pattern for the Waistband.
6 . Attaching Bodice to Skirt6.0From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 8 – 10, skipping the steps to gather the top edge of the Skirt before stitching to the Bodice. Stitch or serge the three Skirt layers together. Treat them as one throughout.
7 . Hem7.0FIT CHECK – Try the dress on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 11 to 13 for hemming options. You will need to hem all three Skirt layers.
NOTE – As this is a very circular skirt you may find it easier to follow step 11.1. Then stitch in place and press. Then fold another ⅓ inch and pin. Stitch and press.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . Staystitching1.1Staystitch the front skirt at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Stitch in the same direction of the arrows in the photo (from the center of the Skirt to the Side).
NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.
1.2Staystitch the two back pieces in the direction of the arrows.
2 . Darts2.0There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
2.1Lay a Front Skirt wrong side up on your ironing board.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.
NOTE – The images shown are for illustrative purposes only. This is not the pattern piece for the Three Tiered Skirt.
Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.
Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.
Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.
2.2With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.
Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.
TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.
2.3Carefully press the darts toward the outside edge of the Front Skirt.
Repeat steps 3.1 and 3.2 for the dart on the other side.
3 . Side Seams and Center Back Seam3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt, right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down each side seam. Repeat for opposite side seam, then the center back seam.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use French seams for the side seams. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. Follow the steps below.
3.1With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt, along the side seams.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim the seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
3.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
3.4Stitch again approximately ¼ inch.
Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Repeat for the opposite side seam and the center back seam.
4 . Bodice4.0From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice.
PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3.
MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 4.
Then follow step 5 from the main pattern for the Waistband.
5 . Attaching Bodice to Skirt5.0From the main pattern tutorial follow step 7.
6 . Tiers6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the two back pieces for Tier 1 right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for both side seams. Repeat for all three seams on Tier 2. Gather Tier 2 to match Tier 1. Serge with a ½ inch seam allowance. Gather Tier 1 to match the bottom edge of the skirt. Serge with a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You’ll be using a French seam to sew up and attach the gathered tiers.
6.1With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin Tier 1 together at one side seam.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
6.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.
6.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
6.4Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
6.5Repeat for the second side seam to complete Tier 1.
6.6Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 for Tier 2.
6.7Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of Tier 2.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
6.8Mark the quarter points on the gathered edge of Tier 2 and the bottom edge of Tier 1.
Place Tier 1 inside Tier 2, matching the marked edges. Tier 1 will be upside down. Match the quarter points with the folds of the French seams laying in the opposite direction at the seams. Pin.
6.9Gently pull the bobbin threads between each quarter point. Even out the gathers and pin in place all around.
6.10Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Remove the gathering stitches.
6.11Pull Tier 1 up through Tier 2 and press the seam allowance up.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.11 to attach Tier 1 to the Skirt.
6.12To finish the seams between each Tier, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
If you wish to do either of these, do this now.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind the edge using bias tape.
6.13Align the fold on the right side of your bias tape with the seam on the wrong side of the skirt and on the ruffle side of the seam. Don’t align the edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of the ruffle. Keep the fold of the bias tape aligned with the seam on the ruffle.
6.14Pin the bias tape all the way along the seam line of the ruffle and overlap the bias where you started of about ½ inch.
Trim the excess bias tape.
6.15Stitch in place by stitching along the fold on the bias tape. Your stitching should be directly on top of the ruffle seam.
6.16Fold the bias over the seam and pin to enclose all raw edges.
6.17Edge stitch along the bias, making sure not to catch the dress under your stitches. Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the ruffle.
6.18OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the ruffle ¼ inch from the seam so that it lays flat against the garment.
Pull Tier 1 up through the Tier 2 and press the binding up.
7 . Hem7.0FIT CHECK – Try the dress on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, follow step 8 or 10 for all three skirt layers.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
1 . Bodice1.0From the main pattern tutorial, follow the preparation step and step 1 to staystitch.
PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 2.1 to 2.7.
MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 3.1 to 3.3.
NOTE – You can only add the Center Front Panel with the Shoulder Ruffle. The Ruffle overlaps at the armscye side seam which adds a little coverage.
2 . Shoulder Ruffle2.1Starting at the point, run two rows of gathering stitches along each edge of the Ruffle, ending at the point on the other side.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
2.2Align one long edge of the Ruffle along the outer edge of the main Bodice, right sides together. Match the straight point of the Ruffle to the Bodice seam.
Gently pull on both bobbin threads to gather the Ruffle, until the Ruffle matches up with the Bodice.
Spread the gathered stitches out gently with your fingers so that it is evenly gathered.
2.3Fold the Ruffle in half, length ways, wrong sides together.
Gather the second edge of the Ruffle to match the Bodice edge.
2.4Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
2.5Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 for the second Ruffle.
Follow step 2.6 for the Plunge Neckline Option or skip to step 2.7 for the Modesty Panel Option.
2.6PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: Follow steps 2.8 to 2.12 from the main pattern tutorial to complete the Bodice. The Ruffle will be sandwiched between the main and Bodice lining.
2.7MODESTY PANEL OPTION: Follow steps 3.6 to 3.14 from the Main Pattern Tutorial. Then continue from step 3.19 to complete the Bodice. The Ruffle will be sandwiched between the main and Bodice lining.
3 . Dress/Jumpsuit3.0Follow step 4 from the main pattern for the Waistband.
Complete your Dress/Jumpsuit with your chosen Skirt/Trouser, following step 6 (midi/maxi skirt) or step 7 (maxi skirt with godets) from the main instructions, or Options A-E above.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
1 . Back Ties1.1Fold a Back Tie in half lengthways, right sides together. Pin.
1.2Stitch along the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
Press the seam allowance open.
1.4Center the seam and align the raw edges of one short end.
1.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.6Trim the seam allowance and turn right sides out.
Press flat.
TIP – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
1.7Align the short raw edge of the Back Tie onto the Back Bodice, right sides together, as desired. Pin.
NOTE – Check the Back Bodice piece against the model for Back Tie placement. It should be placed in the middle of the shoulder blades to achieve the look as photographed. Or place them as desired.
NOTE – You are attaching the Back Tie at a horizontal position with it pointing in toward the side edge, not the center edge.
1.8Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.9Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.8 for the second Back Tie.
2 . Bodice2.0From the main pattern tutorial, follow the preparation step and step 1 to staystitch.
PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 2.
MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3.
NOTE – You can only add the Center Front Panel with the Shoulder Ruffle. The Ruffle overlaps at the armscye side seam which adds a little coverage.
3 . Dress/Jumpsuit3.0Follow step 4 from the main pattern for the Waistband.
Complete your Dress/Jumpsuit with your chosen Skirt/Trouser.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Phoebe Party Dress Add-On is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpphoebepartydressaddon.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewPhoebe Party Dress Add-On
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This is an add-on to the Phoebe Party Dress. You will need the Phoebe Party Dress pattern, as well as this pattern in order to be able to make the options in this pattern.
The layout to this add-on is different than the Main Pattern.
First, decide which option you wish to make, then follow the instructions within that section.
The Options
The options contained within this Add-On are as follows:
Option A: Jumpsuit
A slim leg trouser with front darts adding shape at the waist. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, you will need both the Bodice pattern pieces and instructions from the main pattern, along with the Jumpsuit pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on.
Option B: Pencil Skirt
This pencil skirt creates the perfect silhouette with front waist darts and a kick pleat at the back. Choose between knee or maxi length. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, you will need both the Pencil Skirt pattern pieces from this Add-on, and the bodice pieces & instructions from the main pattern.
Option C: High-Low Fishtail Skirt
A pencil skirt shape from the waist with front darts and a high-low fishtail bottom tier. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress Pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, you will need both the High-Low Fishtail Skirt pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on, and the Bodice pattern pieces and instructions from the main pattern.
Option D: Double Layer High-Low Skirt
A double layered lined, soft flowing high-low skirt that is gathered at the waist and attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress Pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, both the Double Layer High-Low Skirt pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on, and the Bodice pieces and the instructions from the main pattern are needed.
Option E: Three-Tiered Skirt
Two gathered bottom tiers creating a flowy silhouette. The top of the skirt is slightly fitted at the hips with front and back darts for shaping. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress Pattern. You can also add the Shoulder Ruffle to the bodice from Option F and the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, both the Three-Tiered Skirt pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on, and the Bodice pieces and the instructions from the main pattern are needed.
Option F: Shoulder Ruffle
A gathered ruffle around the armscye of the bodice. This attaches to both bodice options (excluding side modesty panels) from the Phoebe Party Dress Pattern. You can also add the Back Tie from Option G.
To complete this option, you will need both the Bodice pattern pieces and instructions from the main pattern, along with the Shoulder Ruffle pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on. If you are adding the Shoulder Ruffle to the Bodice with modesty panels, you will only be able to add the Center Front Panel. The Ruffle overlaps at the bottom of the armscye and will not work with the Side Panel, nor is it needed as the Shoulder Ruffle will cover this area.
You can attach this completed Bodice to either Skirt options from the main pattern or any of Options A-E above.
Option G: Back Tie
A thin strap attached to each side of the back of the bodice, sitting across the shoulders. This can be tied into a bow for a beautiful finish. This attaches to both bodice options from the Phoebe Party Dress pattern and can also be used with the Shoulder Ruffle from Option F.
To complete this option, you will need both the Bodice pattern pieces and instructions from the main pattern, along with the Back Tie pattern pieces and instructions from this Add-on.
You can attach this completed Bodice to either Skirt options from the main pattern or any of Options A-E above.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
The sizing is the same as the main pattern. Seam allowances are also the same.
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Option A – Jumpsuit
Front Rise
Back Rise
Inseam
Thigh Circum-
ference
Calf
12 – 18 mos
4.5
7.7
15.0
15.0
11.3
18 – 24 mos
5.0
8.0
16.0
15.3
11.6
2 – 3 yrs
5.2
8.3
16.0
16.0
12.0
3 – 4 yrs
5.5
8.6
17.0
16.6
12.5
5 – 6 yrs
6.0
9.0
19.6
17.5
12.7
7 – 8 yrs
6.3
9.5
22.0
18.5
13.0
9 – 10 yrs
6.6
10.0
25.0
19.3
13.2
11 – 12 yrs
7.0
10.3
28.3
20.3
13.5
Option B – Pencil Skirt
Waist
Hips
Knee length skirt
Maxi length skirt
12 – 18 mos
20.5
25.0
12.0
18.3
18 – 24 mos
21.5
25.6
13.1
19.2
2 – 3 yrs
23.0
26.6
14.6
22.5
3 – 4 yrs
24.0
27.6
17.0
26.2
5 – 6 yrs
25.0
29.3
19.0
29.5
7 – 8 yrs
26.0
31.0
20.5
32.0
9 – 10 yrs
27.0
33.0
21.6
33.5
11 – 12 yrs
28.0
35.0
23.0
36.0
Option C – High-Low Fishtail Skirt
Skirt Length
Front
Back
12 – 18 mos
17.0
20.5
18 – 24 mos
18.3
22.0
2 – 3 yrs
19.5
23.0
3 – 4 yrs
20.2
23.5
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
24.1
7 – 8 yrs
21.5
25.0
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
26.2
11 – 12 yrs
24.2
27.6
Option D – Double Layer High-Low Skirt
Lining
Outer Skirt
Inner Skirt
Skirt length
Front length
Back length
Front length
Back length
12 – 18 mos
6.0
6.5
13.3
8.5
15.7
18 – 24 mos
6.6
7.3
14.5
9.5
16.6
2 – 3 yrs
10.0
10.6
17.7
12.7
20.0
3 – 4 yrs
13.7
14.3
21.5
16.5
23.6
5 – 6 yrs
17.0
18.0
25.0
20.0
27.0
7 – 8 yrs
19.3
20.0
27.1
22.1
29.2
9 – 10 yrs
21.0
22.0
29.0
24.0
31.0
11 – 12 yrs
23.5
24.1
31.2
26.2
33.3
Option E – Three-Tiered Skirt
Skirt Length
12 – 18 mos
19.0
18 – 24 mos
19.7
2 – 3 yrs
23.0
3 – 4 yrs
26.3
5 – 6 yrs
30.2
7 – 8 yrs
32.7
9 – 10 yrs
34.1
11 – 12 yrs
36.3
Materials and ToolsSee the fabric suggestions within the main Phoebe Party Dress pattern. The fabric requirements and finished garment measurements are listed for each option below.
Option A – Jumpsuit
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Jumpsuit
12 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 6 yrs
1.00
7 – 10 yrs
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Jumpsuit
12 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 6 yrs
1.00
7 – 10 yrs
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option B – Pencil Skirt
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabric as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Knee length
Maxi length
12 – 18 mos
0.75
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
2.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
2.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
2.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
2.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
2.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
2.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Knee length
Maxi length
12 – 18 mos
0.75
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
1.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
1.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
1.25
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option C – High-Low Fishtail Skirt
See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions. You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
12 – 18 mos
1.00
18 – 24 mos
1.25
2 – 8 yrs
1.25
9 – 12 yrs
1.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
12 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 4 yrs
1.00
5 – 12 yrs
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.Option D – Double Layer High-Low Skirt
You will need notions and bodice fabrics as per the main pattern. You can use the same lining fabric type as you use for your bodice.
You will need a lightweight fabric which is gathered on top of the lining. Recommended fabrics are tulle, bridal tulle, chiffon, georgette, organza, or any other very light weight woven fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
Skirt Lining
12 – 18 mos
3.00
1.00
18 – 24 mos
3.25
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
4.00
1.00
3 – 4 yrs