ADD ON Dolls' Portia Party Dress

Unless otherwise noted, the construction methods are the same for all ladies, child’s and doll sizes. 

The seam allowances (½ inch) are the same for both the knit and woven versions on all sizes. 

Bias Tape (Woven only) – If you are using ½ inch wide single fold bias tape, fold the wrong sides together down its length and press. Now you will have ¼ inch wide double fold bias tape.

Mark & Stitch Darts

The darts are required for the Woven AND the Knit versions in all sizes (dolls, child’s and ladies). They give shape to the dress over the lower back and stop wrinkling under the bodice.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it:

If you haven’t done this before, lay the fabric wrong side up on your ironing board. 

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with half of the skirt. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board. Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place. 

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart. 

Draw the dart in between the corner points using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points. 

Leave the fabric where it is, turn the paper pattern piece over and repeat with the mirror image for the other half of the bodice, using the pin holes as your three corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric of the back skirt down the centerline of one dart. Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart. Repeat for the second dart on the front skirt. Press both darts towards the center of the skirt.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads. 

½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, sew and serge the shoulders using a ½ inch seam allowance then continue to step 2. 

Pin the front and back bodice pieces with the right sides of the fabric together at shoulder seams.

NOTE – The back armhole is wider than the front. This is correct and part of what gives the armhole its shape. Just match along the shoulder seams at this point.

Stitch or serge the shoulder using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

If not using an overlocker/serger, trim the seam to ¼ inch and press to the back.

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. 

TIP – If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use a clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams to prevent them from stretching out overtime with wear. To install the elastic, leave excess on either ends of the seam, you can cut the excess later. Pin the elastic without stretching it and incorporate it to the shoulder seam.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, finish both sides of the back bodice and neckline (as in photo 2.1). Then skip to step 2.2.

OPTIONAL – Finish the back opening and neckline with a stretch overcasting stitch. 

If doing a thread button loop, skip to step 3. If you are doing the ribbon button loop, continue with the following step. 

Fold your ribbon in half so it creates a loop. 

With your fabric right side up, line up the raw edges of the loop with the left raw edge of the back opening about ½ inch down from the neckline edge so the loop is facing into the fabric.

Stitch the button loop securely in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

When you fold your seam allowance back ½ inch the loop should protrude out far enough for your button to slip through.

There are two different neckline finishes offered here. Pick which one you will follow:

Finishing Method A 

• The first option is where you simply turn the raw (or serged) edge under and top stitch in place. This is the simplest and quickest method. 
• This finish is not visible from the outside of the garment however it will give a more curved look to the “V” and takes some slow sewing at the V to make sure you catch the seam allowance. 
• This method is more suitable for knit fabrics with 4 way stretch so that you can turn the seam allowance under at the V sufficiently to top stitch it in place without wrinkling the fabric. If you are using a fabric with only 2 way stretch, follow the other option (Finishing Method B). If you are unsure which type of stretch your fabric has, pull first along the length of the fabric and then secondly across the width of the fabric. If it stretches well both times, it has 4 way stretch. If it only stretches when you pull it one way, then it has 2 way stretch.
• If you want to follow this method, start at step 3.1 and continue on. 

Finishing Method B 

• The second option is where you use visible bias tape along the neckline. 
• It’s a more traditional and precise finish, however you will see the bias tape while wearing the dress. 
• This method is suitable for both 4 way and 2 way stretch fabrics.
• If you want to follow this method, complete steps 3.1 and 3.2, then skip to step 3.4.

If doing the open back, skip to step 3.2.

PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK – If doing the closed back, fold the top so that the backs are right sides together.

With the right sides of the fabric together, stitch the center back from the waist up to the notch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the notch. 

PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK – Press the seam open all the way to the neckline (all the way past the notch to the top). From the right side, topstitch the seam allowance down on either side of the back opening using a medium length straight stitch. You should be stitching just under ½ inch from the folded edge so that it catches the seam allowance. Stitch from the neckline all the way down to the hem. Skip to step 3.3.

OPEN BACK – For the open back option you are doing the same except there is no notch. Press your back opening seam allowance under using a ½ inch seam allowance. Topstitch the seam allowance down all the way from the neckline to the hem. Continue on with step 3.3.

TIP – You can either use a medium length straight stitch for this top stitching, or from the right side of the fabric, a straight stitch using a twin needle.

NOTE – If you did a ribbon button loop, after pressing your seam allowance open, your button loop should now be folded back with the fabric so it protrudes past the seam allowance and you can use it. Be careful to keep the button loop out of the way as you stitch. If you are doing a thread button loop, we will complete this later.

FINISHING METHOD A – Fold the (finished or raw) edges of the neckline under ½ inch and press. Pin or use clips to hold it in place.

If your fabric is a little stiff, you will need to clip the seam allowance directly under the V. Using the very tip of your scissors, make a little snip into the seam allowance, just enough to help the V sit flat from the right side. Don’t cut too far or you’ll end up with a hole! 

If your fabric is very stretchy, you might turn the V under easily without clipping into the seam allowance but keep in mind that you will likely need to taper the neckline allowance to ¼ inch instead of ½ inch to keep it flat.  

From the right side, topstitch the front and back neckline continuously using a medium length straight stitch just under ½ inch.

TIP – Because of the opening of the back, the back seams and the neckline seam won’t be under too much pressure, therefore a stretch stitch isn’t strictly necessary. A twin needle will give the most professional looking finish, or you could use a regular straight stitch or a zigzag stitch to topstitch but it’s up to your personal preferences.

TIP – To get as sharp a corner as possible at the front V, go slowly and put the needle down when you get to the center front. Then lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric before putting your presser feet down again.

If you have done the ribbon loop, skip to step 4.1. If you are doing the thread loop skip to step 3.11.

FINISHING METHOD B – 

First, trim the neckline seam allowance by ¼ inch all the way around the front and back.

TIP – Measure and draw a line down each side of the V ¼ inch from the edge with tailors chalk or a fabric pen so you can just cut along it.

NOTE – The reason we are trimming the neckline down by ¼ inch is so that the finished neckline is the same height as if you had done the other finishing method. If you’d like it ¼ inch higher for more coverage, you could skip this step.

Then staystitch all along the front and back of the  neckline using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Make sure to pivot at the center front V.

TIP – Staystitching is just a regular stitch, but you do not need to backstitch at either end. It is to give the fabric stability and stop it stretching or changing shape when we manipulate it in the next few steps.

Next, draw a line down the middle of the V at the center front using tailors chalk or a washable fabric marker. This will serve as a cutting guide.

Make a snip into the seam allowance following the line you just drew. Stop ⅛ of an inch from the stay stitching you just did in step 3.5.

TIP – Place two pins to help you stop cutting at the right point. One at the end of the V and one ⅛ above it. Use the very tip of your scissors for maximum control.

Open the slit, straightening the neckline so it is as straight and horizontal as possible. 

Pin the bias tape to the slit, right sides together. Make sure to leave about ¼ inch of bias tape overhanging each end.

Your bias tape should go all the way from the center back on one back neckline edge, around the front, all the way to the center back edge of the other back neckline.

For some fabric types you will be able to straighten the neckline all the way around the front and back so you have one long seam to pin your bias tape to. For other fabric types you may need to curve your bias tape to attach it as you get to the back of the neckline. 

NOTE – If you’re using a store-bought bias tape, you’ll notice that one half is slightly wider than the other. Pin the narrower side to the right side of your fabric.

Using approximately a ¼ inch seam allowance, stitch along the first fold in the bias tape to attach it to the neckline, making sure to get a clean straight line.

Your stitching should be approximately on top of your stay stitching from step 3.5.

At either end of the neckline, turn the overhanging bias tape under and press.

Fold the bias tape all the way over the seam allowance to the back side. Make sure that the edge of the tape goes just over the stitching line, and that the overhanging edges at either end are tucked inside.

Give it a press and pin in place. All the raw edges should now be enclosed inside the bias tape.

Here are two options to finish your neckline. Stitching from the right side of your piece you can choose to:

1. Stitch in the ditch – Stitch right in the space between fabric and bias tape being careful that you catch the other side of the tape as well. With this option you won’t have any visible stitching on the bias tape.
2. Top stitch the bias tape with a ⅛ inch seam allowance or as close to the edge as you can.

The point of the V will not be crisp yet. This is correct.

Press.

Fold the front of the dress, right sides touching and aligning the edges of the bias tape you just sewed.

Stitch a straight line from the center fold to the edge of the trim. This will give a clean look to the V.

It will be a very short little seam you are sewing, through multiple layers so you may need to stitch several times over the same piece to secure it. Make sure to trim your threads well so they do not show.

If you have done the ribbon loop, skip to step 4.1. If you are doing the thread loop continue below.

THREAD LOOP:

Cut 2 pieces of thread that matches your dress and thread both of them through your needle. Cut them at least 6 times the length of your intended button loop. Pull them through the needle eye until you match the ends, so you will end up with 4 threads 3 times the length of your intended button loop.

TIP – If you want to create a thicker thread button loop, you can use 3 or 4 threads from the start

Tie a knot in the end.

Make a little stitch into the fabric where you want your loop to start.

TIP – Start your thread loop about ¾ to 1 inch down from the top of the center back edge of the neckline. Stitch it right on the edge of the seam so the button loop will lay flat against the skin. 

Make a small stitch just beside the starting stitch but don’t pull the thread all the way closed until you create a loop.

Reach the needle though the center of the loop but don’t pull all the way again so you create a second loop.

Tighten the first loop and drop the needle into the second loop in the same manner.

Close the second loop and so on. Once your chain has reached your desired length, finish by pulling the needle through the fabric.

Backstitch or tie a knot. Cut the remaining thread.

TIP – Try to push your button through the loop before you secure it. Check it is not too short that you can’t get it through, but not so long that the button will be able to wiggle itself loose easily.

Measure down from the top of the center back piece to your loop. Measure down the same distance on the opposite center back piece and mark with a pin. Sew on your button.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, finish both sleeves raw edges. Then skip to step 4.2.

OPTIONAL – Finish the sleeve raw edge with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Fold the sleeve hem under ½ inch and press. Topstitch using a medium length straight stitch just under ½ inch. Press. 

Alternatively, you could hem using a twin needle, a zigzag stitch, a rolled hem or a cover stitch. 

TIP – For knit fabrics which are very drapey, you may find that hemming reduces the drape. If your fabric does not fray and you wish to keep the hemline as soft as possible, you could trim carefully instead of hemming and leave the edge unfinished. A roll hem using a serger is another option which can look softer than a turned under hem. Try the options on a scrap of fabric before completing your hem so you can decide what you prefer most.

NOTE – The reason we do the hem here, before the side seam is that for the very small sizes, this can be tricky to do once the side seam is finished. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, sew the front bodice to the front skirt using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge the raw edge. Start from one side to the center then serge from the other side to the center. Press towards the top. skip to step 5.4.

On the wrong side of the skirt fabric, mark a straight line ½ inch down from the center front point with tailors chalk or a washable fabric marker. 

This will help you get a precise pivot point when attaching the front bodice to the front skirt. 

We are going to pin and then stitch the skirt to bodice one side at a time. This will give a nice crisp “V” to the point under the bust and will stop any wrinkling that can happen if you stitch the whole seam in one go.

Pin one side of the front bodice to the front skirt with right sides together, matching the side seams and the center of the V.

Leave the other side of the skirt and bodice loose for now.

TIP – You may find pinning the bodice to the skirt challenging due to their opposite curves. Start by pinning the center front and side and continue to pin all the way around the curves. Take your time and use lots of pins or clips.  

Stitch from the side seam to the center using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.  Stop exactly at the center front line you drew in step 5.1.

Using the very tip of your scissors, clip into the seam allowance of the skirt only at center front. When you make the cut, cut down the line you drew in step 5.1 and stop just short of your stitches (approximately ⅛ inch from the stitching). Do not clip through your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole.

This little clip will help the waist seam sit flat after you’ve sewn it. 

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Repeat step 5.2 to pin the other side of the bodice to the other side of the skirt. Pin at the side seam, then ease it in along the curve to the center.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance from the side seam into the centerline you marked. 

As you approach the centerline, make sure the fabric from the other side of the bodice & skirt is out of the way. Stitch slowly and stop at the centerline. Do not go past the seam or it will make a funny little tuck when you open the seam out.

Press the seam up towards the top.

OPTIONAL – Bust elastic

If you would like the front top slightly gathered at the center bust, add Bust elastic now.

Measure height of center top (from peak of skirt to point of V). Cut a piece of elastic, half of this measurement.

Pin it in place at the top, underneath center of the V. Stretch the elastic and stitch it to the dress, using a zig zag stitch. This step will give the bust more shape, especially for the Ladies size.

PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK – With right side of the fabrics together, align the raw edge of back bodice with the raw edge of the skirt back and pin. 

OPEN BACK – Fold the back of the skirt in half and mark the center of the back skirt with a pin. Unfold again. With the right side of the fabrics together, align the raw edge of the back of the bodice with the raw edge of the skirt back and pin. The back bodice pieces should meet at center back and lay side by side. They won’t overlap. 

Stitch or serge using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch and press. 

FIT CHECK – If possible, clip or baste this step before stitching fully. Try the garment on and check for fit at the side seams. Adjust if needed then continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, sew and serge the sides right side to right side using a ½ inch seam allowance from the sleeve hem down to the skirt hem. Then skip to step 8.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the front and back pieces together starting at the sleeve down to the skirt hem. Make sure to match the underarm seam. 

Stitch from the skirt hem to the sleeve hem using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. 

Press the seam towards the back.

Try the dress on and check you are happy with the fit. Make any adjustments to the side seams if you prefer.

FIT CHECK – Try the dress on, check you are happy with the length and adjust if needed. Make sure to allow 1 inch total for your hem.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the skirt raw edge using a ½ inch seam allowance and fold the hem under ½ inch. Topstitch.

Trim your hem allowance by ½ inch.

OPTIONAL – Finish the skirt raw edge with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Fold the skirt hem under ½ inch and press. Topstitch using a medium length straight stitch just under ½ inch. Press. 

Alternatively, you could hem using a twin needle, a zigzag stitch, a rolled hem or a cover stitch. 

NOTE – The hem allowance is 1 inch so that if you are doing the woven version, you will have enough fabric to turn your hem under twice so the raw edges are hidden inside the hem. As we are using knit in this version, we don’t need to do that. Hence either serging or trimming off ½ inch before turning the fabric under. Alternatively, if you prefer your dress longer, just leave the excess on.

½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger:

• PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK – Serge the edges of the center back tops before placing them right sides together, with serged edges aligned. Stitch from waist up to the notch using ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open all the way up to the neckline and topstitch it down, ⅜ inch from the edge. Then skip to step 1.4.
• OPEN BACK – Serge the edges of the center back top, fold serged edge ½ inch back (wrong sides of fabric will be touching) and press. Topstitch it in place, ⅜ inches from the edge. Then skip to step 1.5.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below:

If you are doing the Open Back, skip to step 1.5.

If you are doing the PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK, with the Back Tops right side together stitch the center seam from waist up to the notch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam allowance open all the way up to the neckline.

Fold the seam allowance under itself, hiding the raw edge, and give it a press. 

Topstitch each seam allowance all the way from neckline to the top hem.

If you haven’t sewn your darts on your back skirt yet, do so now. You will find the instructions for this in the “preparation” section.

With the right sides of the fabric together, align the raw edge of the back of the bodice with the raw edge of the skirt back and pin. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Skip to step 1.10.

If you are doing the OPEN BACK, we are going to finish the center back edges of the top back with bias tape.

Trim ¼ inch only off the center back raw edges.

NOTE – The reason we are finishing this edge with bias tape is it suits all woven fabrics you could use with this pattern. There are several alternative options you could use. It will depend which fabric you have as to which is suitable. Some suggestions are:

• If you are using a stable woven fabric such as cotton, you could fold the raw edges in ¼ inch, press, fold in again another ¼ inch, press and topstitch in place. 
• For very fine fabrics like chiffon or georgette you could use a rolled hem here instead. 
• Use the same bias tape technique but with a lace or trim to finish the edge.

Take care to try a sample of the finish you are trying on a scrap of your fabric to check it suits.

With right sides together, pin the bias along the raw edge.

Sew along the first fold line. This will be approximately a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Press the bias away from the seam towards the raw edge. 

Then continue folding it and wrap it all around the back of the seam allowance. It should completely envelope the seam allowance, hiding all the raw edges 

The front should look just like the back (except it won’t be stitched yet). Give it a press.

From the right side, top stitch it as close to the edge of the bias tape as possible to secure it in place.

Repeat steps 1.5 to 1.8 for the other back piece.

If you haven’t sewn your darts on your back skirt yet, do so now. You will find the instructions for this in the “preparation” section.

Fold the back of the skirt in half and mark the center with a pin.

With right sides of the fabric together, align the raw edges of back bodices and skirt and pin (the bias tape covered edges will meet at center back). 

Stitch with ½ inch seam allowance.

Slip your bias tape over the seam allowance so it covers the raw edges.

Stitch the tape in place close to the seam. 

Press the seam allowance down towards the skirt.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, follow steps 2.1-2.2 below and serge the seam allowance. Press it towards the top. Then skip to step 3.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below:

On the wrong side of the skirt fabric, mark a straight line ½ inch down from the center front point with tailors chalk or a washable fabric marker. 

This will help you get a precise pivot point when attaching the front bodice to the front skirt. 

We are going to pin and then stitch the skirt to bodice one side at a time. This will give a nice crisp “V” to the point under the bust and will stop any wrinkling that can happen if you stitch the whole seam in one go.

Pin one side of the front bodice to the front skirt with right sides together, matching the side seams and the center of the V.

Leave the other side of the skirt and bodice loose for now.

TIP – You may find pinning the bodice to the skirt challenging due to their opposite curves. Start by pinning the center front and side and continue to pin all the way around the curves. Take your time and use lots of pins or clips.  

Stitch from the side seam to the center using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.  Stop exactly at the center front line you drew in step 2.1.

Using the very tip of your scissors, clip into the seam allowance of the skirt only at center front. When you make the cut, cut down the line you drew in step 2.1 and stop just short of your stitches (approximately ⅛ inch from the stitching). Do not clip through your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole.

This little clip will help the waist seam sit flat after you’ve sewn it. 

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Repeat step 2.2 to pin the other side of the bodice to the other side of the skirt. Pin at the side seam, then ease it in along the curve to the center.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance from the side seam into the centerline you marked. 

As you approach the centerline, make sure the fabric from the other side of the bodice & skirt is out of the way. Stitch slowly and stop at the centerline. Do not go past the seam or it will make a funny little tuck when you open the seam out.

Press the seam up towards the top.

Cover the seam allowance using bias tape, one half at the time, overlapping at the peak on center front.

NOTE – When applying the second bias tape, fold over ¼ inch of the overlapping edge to give it a nice finish.

Press the seam allowance up towards the top.

FIT CHECK – If possible, clip or baste this step before stitching fully. Try the garment on and check for fit at the side seams. Adjust if needed then continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge to finish the raw edges of all four side edges of the dress individually, from sleeves to hem. Then continue and follow the steps below from 3.1 onwards.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below:

Installing the zipper – place the Back of your dress right side up and with the zipper face down on your fabric, align the coil (teeth) of your zipper with the ½ inch seam allowance starting at the notch in the Back Top. This will be ½ to 1 inch above where the skirt meets the top (depending on what size you are making).

NOTE – Different zippers have different widths of zipper tape, so you may have a bit more or a bit less space between zipper and edge of fabric than pictured.

Pin in place and using an invisible zipper foot, stitch slowly to prevent any puckering and stop at the end of the zipper. 

Repeat the process for the other side of the zip.

TIP – Before stitching the second half of the zipper, pin it in place and close the zipper to make sure it’s straight and in an aligned position.

Pull the zipper closed and lightly press it to make sure it’s nice and smooth.

To close the rest of the side seams, align them right sides together (zipper will be sandwiched between them) and make sure to keep the tail of the zipper out of the way, and starting about ¼ inch before the zipper ending, stitch down using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Use a regular zipper foot to be able to get as close as possible to the zipper.

Press seam allowances open.

NOTE – If using the serger, you may choose to top stitch the zipper to the seam allowance at this point, to help stabilize the zipper in place. 

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the part of the seam above the zipper.

Align raw edges of the other side seam of the dress and pin. Stitch with ½ inch seam allowance, from sleeve to hem. Press seam open.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, skip to step 5.1

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below:

First, we need to clip the seam allowance in the curved part under the arms so it lays flat. 

Using the very tip of your scissors only for maximum control, clip half way into the seam allowance of each side seam at 1 inch intervals under the arm.

Now you’re going to give the seams a “Hong Kong” finish, which is basically covering the raw edges with bias tape to give it a beautiful finished look.

This is very similar to what we did in steps 1.6 -1.8, except that instead of finishing both pieces of the seam allowance at the same time, we will do them individually.

Cut 4 pieces of bias tape to the length of the side seam, plus about an inch either end.

With your garment inside out, lay it flat with the back facing up.

On the left side of the garment, arrange your seam allowances so the seam allowance underneath (eg the one from the front piece of the dress) is folded underneath the dress so it is out of the way.

Open the seam allowance that’s on top (the one from the back piece of the dress), so that is flat.

Open your bias tape out and lay it right side down, with the raw edge aligned with the raw edge of your seam allowance.

Stitch along the first fold line (approximately ¼ inch from the raw edge), catching just the bias tape and your single side of the seam allowance in your stitching.

Go slowly and make sure you do not accidentally catch the dress, or the other seam allowance in your stitching.

Press the bias away from the seam and wrap it around the back of the seam allowance enveloping it. Give it a press.

Top stitch as close to the edge of the bias tape as possible making sure to catch the bias tape on the other side of the seam allowance side.  

This side of your seam allowance should now be enclosed in bias tape.

Repeat steps 4.2 to 4.5 for the other three edges/seam allowances. 

Make sure to keep the dress free and away from the needle at all times. Your stitching should be just on the seam allowances and will not show on the exterior of the dress at any point.

NOTE – When finishing the zipper side, lift the zipper tape and just work behind it. Do not catch the zipper in your stitching or bias tape.

Optional – Topstitch the zipper to the finished seam allowance to help fix it in place. Again, keep the dress free and do not catch it in your stitching.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Carefully clip ¼ inch into the V of the front neckline. Serge each side of the V using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn the seam under another ¼ inch, and press. Top stitch in place using your sewing machine. Serge your back neckline ¼ inch and then turn under and press another ¼ inch. Follow either step 5.11 for a ribbon button loop, or 5.15 to 5.21 for a thread button loop. Top stitch back neckline seam allowance in place. Skip to step 6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below:

There are two different bias tape neckline finishes offered here. Pick which one you will follow:

• Binding Method A – The first option is where the bias tape is turned all the way to the reverse of the fabric. It reinforces the neckline, and creates a finish which is invisible from the exterior of the garment except your top stitching. This is a beautiful finish and is just like step 1.5 – 1.9. However, if you are using a woven with very little give in it (e.g. a tighter weave), you may find it very difficult to turn the bias tape all the way over. You can snip your seam allowance and press but it’s a tricky method. If you want to follow this method, start at step 5.1.
• Binding Method B – The second option is where the bias tape is visible along the neckline. It’s a similar method except you don’t turn the tape all the way over, you just turn it to enclose the raw edges then stitch. is a faster and easier finish; however, you will see the bias tape while wearing the dress. If you want to follow this method, start at step 5.2.

BINDING METHOD A – As with steps 1.5 – 1.9, we are going to finish the edges with bias tape. If you prefer, you can use the same alternatives suggested in steps 1.5 – 1.9. 

To finish with bias tape, first trim the seam allowance by ¼ inch down & around the V of the front neckline. You are only trimming here so the finished edges match what they would be if you followed the serger option.

FRONT – Matching the center of bias tape piece and center of V neckline, pin them right sides together, aligning from center to shoulder.

Follow the same procedure as previously when stitching bias tape – sew with a ¼ inch seam allowance, fold and turn the bias tape to the other side of the fabric. Top stitch in place.

TIP – Make a snip ¼ inch in, right at the center of V point before you attach your bias tape, to make it easier to sew.

Skip to step 5.9.

BINDING METHOD B – 

First, trim the neckline seam allowance by ¼ inch.

TIP – Measure and draw a line down each side of the V ¼ inch from the edge with tailors chalk or a fabric pen so you can just cut along it.

Then staystitch all around the neckline, pivoting at the center, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Staystitching is just a regular stitch, but you do not need to backstitch at either end. It is to give the fabric stability and stop it stretching or changing shape when we manipulate it in the next few steps.

Next, draw a line down the middle of the V (this will serve as a cutting guide). 

Make a snip into the seam allowance following the line you just drew, making sure to stop ⅛ of an inch from the stitching. 

TIP – Place two pins to help you stop cutting at the right point. One at the end of the V and one ⅛ above it. 

Open the slit, straightening the neckline so it is as straight and horizontal as possible. 

Pin the bias tape to the slit, right sides together. Make sure to leave about ½ inch of bias tape overhanging each end.

NOTE – If you’re using a store-bought bias tape, you’ll notice that one half is slightly wider than the other. Pin the narrower side to the right side of your fabric.

Using approximately a ¼ inch seam allowance, stitch along the first fold in the bias tape to attach it to the neckline, making sure to get a clean straight line.

Your stitching should be approximately on top of your stay stitching from step 5.3

Once you’re finished. Fold the bias tape all the way over the seam allowance to the back side. Make sure that the edge of the tape goes just over the stitching line. 

Give it a press and pin in place. All the raw edges should now be enclosed inside the bias tape.

Here are two options to finish your neckline. Stitching from the right side of your piece you can choose to:

1. Stitch in the ditch – Stitch right in the space between fabric and bias tape being careful that you catch the other side of the tape as well. With this option you won’t have any visible stitching on the bias tape.
2. Top stitch the bias tape with a ⅛ inch seam allowance or as close to the edge as you can.

Press. Continue below with step 5.9

Fold the front of the dress, right sides touching and aligning the edges of the bias tape you just sewed.

Stitch a straight line from the center fold to the edge of the trim. This will give a clean look to the V.

It will be a very short little seam you are sewing, through multiple layers so you may need to stitch several times over the same piece to secure it. Make sure to trim your threads well so they do not show.

BACK – Trim both back neckline seam allowance down by ¼ inch. 

For each back piece, pin the bias tape evenly around the neckline, leaving ½ inch over the edge on both sides. 

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Press binding and seam allowance away from the neckline. Do not top stitch it in place yet.

Before we secure our back neckline bias tape, we will attach our loop for the button closure.

THREAD LOOP – Skip to step 5.15 (we will stitch our thread loop on last after finishing the neckline).

RIBBON LOOP – Fold your ribbon in a half so it creates a loop.  From the right side of the bias tape place the loop on the neckline, aligning the edges of the ribbon to the edge of neckline. Baste it in place. 

TIP – Again, this will be a really little short seam you are sewing, so you may find it easier to hand stitch the ribbon in place.

Fold the bias tape over itself so right sides are together (if using a ribbon loop, it will be sandwiched in between).

NOTE – This is not the usual way you have folded your bias tape previously when we have been finishing edges. We are finishing the corner right now, so this is folding it back on itself, not over the seam allowance.

Sew down along the edge of neckline, closing the short side of bias tape. Trim the excess.

Flip the binding to the right side and push out the corner (if using the ribbon, it should now be facing out). Repeat the same procedure for the other edge.

Fold and pin the rest of the bias tape in place and edge stitch it. Repeat for the other back neckline.

Press. Skip to step 5.22.

THREAD LOOP – continue below:

Cut 2 pieces of thread that matches your dress and thread both of them through your needle. Cut them at least 6 times the length of your intended button loop. Pull them through the needle eye until you match the ends, so you will end up with 4 threads 3 times the length of your intended button loop.

TIP – If you want to create a thicker thread button loop, you can use 3 or 4 threads from the start

Tie a knot in the end.

Make a little stitch into the fabric where you want your loop to start.

TIP – Start your thread loop about ¾ to 1 inch down from the top of the center back edge of the neckline. Stitch it right on the edge of the seam so the button loop will lay flat against the skin. 

Make a small stitch just beside the starting stitch but don’t pull the thread all the way closed until you create a loop.

Reach the needle though the center of the loop but don’t pull all the way again so you create a second loop.

Tighten the first loop and drop the needle into the second loop in the same manner.

Close the second loop and so on. Once your chain has reached your desired length, finish by pulling the needle through the fabric.

Backstitch or tie a knot. Cut the remaining thread.

TIP – Try to push your button through the loop before you secure it. Check it is not too short that you can’t get it through, but not so long that the button will be able to wiggle itself loose easily.

Measure down from the top of the center back piece to your loop. Measure down the same distance on the opposite center back piece and mark with a pin. Sew on your button.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, follow step 6.1 and serge the seam allowance and press towards the back. Then skip to step 7.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below:

Align front and back shoulder seams and pin in place. Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Finish the seams the same way as the side seams.

NOTE – Alternatively you can bound both seam allowances together.  Pin the bias tape around the closed seam and sew it making sure to catch both sides of the tape. Press it toward the back.

NOTE – Fold in ¼ inch of the bias tape edge to give it a nice finish at the neckline.

Try the dress on and check you are happy with the fit. Make any adjustments to the side seams if you prefer.

FIT CHECK – Try the dress on, check you are happy with the length and adjust if needed. Make sure to allow 1 inch total for your hem.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, fold ½ inch toward the wrong side, press and stitch ⅛ inch from the edge. Give it a final press.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below:

Hem both sleeves and bottom of the dress the same way.

Fold the raw edges of the dress hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press. Fold it another ½ inch, press and edge stitch it in place.

Repeat for the sleeve hems.

Give it a final press and enjoy your beautiful dress!

NOTE – If you prefer, you could hem using a blind hem or roll hem method.

½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch

The sewing instructions in this option are the same for both woven and knit fabrics with the exception of the side seam and zipper. Make sure to follow the correct steps for your fabric type when you get to that.

If you are using a woven fabric, use a regular straight stitch for all steps unless otherwise noted.

If you are using a knit fabric, use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine for all steps unless otherwise noted. 

NOTE – Some steps it is possible to use a serger or overlocker on, but as the serged edge will add bulk to the seam allowance which will be more noticeable with the 2 layers of fabric, we have not recommended this.

If you are doing the Open Back, skip to step 1.3.

PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK – With Back Tops right side together stitch the center seam from waist up to the notch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open all the way up to the neckline.

With the right sides of the fabric together, align the raw edge of the back of the bodice with the raw edge of the skirt back and pin. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and press.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 for the lining pieces.

Skip to step 2.

OPEN BACK – Fold the back of the skirt in half and mark the center of the back skirt with a pin. Unfold again. 

With the right side of the fabrics together, align the raw edges of back tops to the raw edge of the skirt and pin. 

The bodices should overlap by ½ inch at the center.

Stitch each back top piece to the skirt using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping exactly at the pin in the center. Do not stitch the overlapped seam allowances of the top (they won’t be attached to the skirt).

Repeat for lining pieces.

On the wrong side of the skirt fabric, mark a straight line ½ inch down from the center front point with tailors chalk or a washable fabric marker. 

This will help you get a precise pivot point when attaching the front bodice to the front skirt. 

We are going to pin and then stitch the skirt to bodice one side at a time. This will give a nice crisp “V” to the point under the bust and will stop any wrinkling that can happen if you stitch the whole seam in one go.

Pin one side of the front bodice to the front skirt with right sides together, matching the side seams and the center of the V.

Leave the other side of the skirt and bodice loose for now.

TIP – You may find pinning the bodice to the skirt challenging due to their opposite curves. Start by pinning the center front and side and continue to pin all the way around the curves. Take your time and use lots of pins or clips.  

Stitch from the side seam to the center using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.  Stop exactly at the center front line you drew in step 2.1.

Using the very tip of your scissors, clip into the seam allowance of the skirt only at center front. When you make the cut, cut down the line you drew in step 2.1 and stop just short of your stitches (approximately ⅛ inch from the stitching). Do not clip through your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole.

This little clip will help the waist seam sit flat after you’ve sewn it. 

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Repeat step 2.2 to pin the other side of the bodice to the other side of the skirt. Pin at the side seam, then ease it in along the curve to the center.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance from the side seam into the centerline you marked. 

As you approach the centerline, make sure the fabric from the other side of the bodice & skirt is out of the way. Stitch slowly and stop at the centerline. Do not go past the seam or it will make a funny little tuck when you open the seam out.

Press the seam up towards the top.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 for the lining pieces.

WOVEN FABRICS – Follow the instructions below from step 3.1 to 3.6, then skip to step 4.1.

KNIT FABRICS – Skip to step 3.7.

Installing the zipper – place the Back of your dress right side up and with the zipper face down on your fabric, align the coil (teeth) of your zipper with the ½ inch seam allowance starting at the notch in the Back Top. This will be ½ to 1 inch above where the skirt meets the top (depending on what size you are making).

NOTE – Different zippers have different widths of zipper tape, so you may have a bit more or a bit less space between zipper and edge of fabric than pictured.

Pin in place and using an invisible zipper foot, stitch slowly to prevent any puckering and stop at the end of the zipper. Repeat the process for the other side.

TIP – Before stitching the second half of the zipper, pin it in place and close the zipper to make sure it’s straight and in an aligned position.

Pull the zipper closed and lightly press it to make sure it’s nice and smooth.

To close the rest of the side seams, align them right sides together (zipper will be sandwiched between them) and make sure to keep the tail of the zipper out of the way, and starting about ¼ inch before the zipper ending, stitch down using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Use a regular zipper foot to be able to get as close as possible to the zipper.

Press seam allowances open.

TIP – Top stitch the bottom inch of the zipper tape to the seam allowance to help stabilize the zipper in place.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for part above the zipper.

Lining – Stitch the side of the lining leaving the zipper space open. Press seam allowance open.

WOVEN FABRICS ONLY – Close the other side of the dress using a ½ inch seam allowance and press. 

Snip the curved part of the seam allowance to help it lay flat and smooth.

Repeat for the lining.

Skip to step 4.1.

KNIT FABRICS ONLY – Stitch both side seams of the dress using a ½ inch seam allowance and press. 

Snip the curved part of the seam allowance to help it lay flat and smooth.

Repeat for the lining.

Skip to step 4.1.

RIBBON LOOP – If you are using a ribbon, follow steps 4.1 – 4-2. Then skip to step 4.10.

THREAD LOOP – Skip to step 4.3.

Fold your ribbon in a half so it creates a loop.

Line up the raw edges of the loop with the left raw edge of the back opening about ½ inch from the neckline edge so the loop is facing into the fabric.

Baste the button loops in place using a longer and loose stitch and ¼ inch seam allowance.

Skip to step 5.1

Cut 2 pieces of thread that matches your dress and thread both of them through your needle. Cut them at least 6 times the length of your intended button loop. Pull them through the needle eye until you match the ends, so you will end up with 4 threads 3 times the length of your intended button loop.

TIP – If you want to create a thicker thread button loop, you can use 3 or 4 threads from the start

Tie a knot in the end.

Make a little stitch into the fabric where you want your loop to start.

TIP – Start your thread loop about ¾ to 1 inch down from the top of the center back edge of the neckline. Stitch it right on the edge of the seam so the button loop will lay flat against the skin. 

Make a small stitch just beside the starting stitch but don’t pull the thread all the way closed until you create a loop.

Reach the needle though the center of the loop but don’t pull all the way again so you create a second loop.

Tighten the first loop and drop the needle into the second loop in the same manner.

Close the second loop and so on. Once your chain has reached your desired length, finish by pulling the needle through the fabric.

TIP – Try to push your button through the loop before you secure it. Check it is not too short that you can’t get it through, but not so long that the button will be able to wiggle itself loose easily.

Backstitch or tie a knot. Cut the remaining thread.

Measure down from the top of the center back piece to your loop. Measure down the same distance on the opposite center back piece and mark with a pin. Sew on your button.

Insert the lining into the dress, right sides together.

NOTE – Here the lighter plain fabric is the exterior of the dress, the pink printed fabric is the lining.

Align the V neck of dress and lining together, pin in place and stitch using ½ inch seam allowance. 

Using the very tip of your scissors for maximum control, snip the seam allowance of the V making sure not to cut the stitches. 

TIP – Do not turn the dress inside out yet, but just take note that when you turn the dress later to check if the V lays flat. If it does not, you may need to come back to this step to snip a little closer to the seam. Take care not to snip too close. 

TIP – I would normally leave approximately ⅛ inch between the cut and the seam to avoid a hole. If it still does not lay flat, I’d wiggle it a little with my fingers and press flat with my fingers to see if that helps before attempting to cut more.

Align neckline and back openings of dress and lining together and pin in place. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

PARTIALLY OPEN BACK – Stitch till ¼ inch past opening into the existing seam.

OPEN BACK – Stitch all the way down to the waist.

Trim the center back corners and snip the seam allowance of the curved neckline to help it lay flat and smooth when you turn it through later.

Align the Sleeve edges of dress and lining together. Pin in place and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim seam allowance approximately in half to reduce bulking.

NOTE – This finishes the hemline of the sleeves with the dress and lining stitched together. The armhole is very open and this method means no raw edges will be visible when moving your arms. With some fabric types though, this can reduce the drape of the sleeve. If you prefer, another option is to hem the sleeves of the dress and lining independently. If you wish to do this, follow the same method as in step 6 but allowing ½ inch for your hem.

Pull the lining and dress both right side out so they are separate.

Continue to turn it through so the lining is inside the dress.

It should now be assembled as you would wear it, with the lining inside the dress. The dress will be right side out and the dress & lining will be wrong sides together.

It will look a bit weird with the shoulder seam still being open with the raw edges showing. 

Give it all a good press.

We are now going to sew the shoulder seams.

To do this, you need to put your hand between the dress and the lining at the hem. Move your hand all the way up to the shoulder, grab a front & back shoulder and pull it out to sew. 

You should have in your hand both the front and back shoulder for the lining and the dress. Align all four shoulder/sleeve raw edges. 

NOTE – To check if you have it correct, it will be layered lining against lining and main fabric against main fabric (lining, lining, main, main).

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat for the other shoulder seam.

TIP – This can be an awkward part of the sew. If you are unsure if you have it correct, don’t overthink it. Just pin or baste the seam allowance together. Then turn it all right side out to check it is correct, then go back and sew it.

Turn your dress right side out and press the shoulder seam.

KNIT FABRICS – Skip to step 5.9

WOVEN FABRICS – Flip the dress so it is inside out again, and hand sew the lining to the zipper using a slip stitch.

NOTE – If you prefer, you can machine sew the lining to the zip here, however this will show on the outside of the garment, whereas hand stitching will not.

Try the dress on and check you are happy with the fit. Make any adjustments to the side seams if you prefer.

FIT CHECK – Try the dress on, check you are happy with the length and adjust if needed. Make sure to allow 1 inch total for your hem.

Hem the dress and lining separately. 

Fold the raw edges of the dress ½ inch to the wrong side and press. Fold it another ½ inch, press and edge stitch it in place.

Repeat for the lining. 

Give it a final press and enjoy your beautiful dress!

NOTE – If you prefer, you could hem using a blind hem or roll hem method.