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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Advanced Bralette Tank Add On
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Super charge your Bralette Tank with this mega-option bundle. Easy to sew sporty comfort with nine strap and three back options.
Note, this pattern cannot be used as a standalone; you will need the Bralette Tank in order to use this pattern
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- +Preparation
- Overall fit – The Bralette Tank Top is designed to have negative ease. This means it is smaller than the body and the fabric will stretch as you are wearing it. If you fall towards the lower end of your size range, you may find you need to take the fabric in slightly to have sufficient negative ease for comfort. We recommend trying a muslin (see below) to make sure the fit is exactly how you are wanting.
- Measure – Please measure and use the size you fall into on the size chart. Sizing varies by designer, brand, and country so please be aware it may or may not be the size you are used to.
- Selecting your size – If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your chest measurement. That way the armscye, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your chest and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the waist as needed (draw a gentle line between both sizes at the waist).
- Bust – The pattern has been drafted for a sewing C cup bust. We tested the pattern with up to a G cup and found that fabric with at least a 30% stretch, fit well. B cups fit well but A found it a little loose. That said, fit can depend on body shape as well as cup size and fabric type. So, for best fit, complete a muslin and adjust accordingly.
- Height adjustments – The pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. The optional tank tops are designed to be quite long, finishing just below the hip bone. If you wish to lengthen or shorten the bralette, you will need to adjust the Front and Back bralette pieces.
- For the most accurate height adjustment, adjust in two places – 1 inch below the armhole, to give more room in the bust area, and at the hem, to give more length.
- For minor height adjustments, you may find no adjustment is needed, that you can simply shorten or lengthen at the hem as preferred.
- Straps – You may find you need to adjust these according to your body shape and height. We recommend sewing these for your muslin in the same stretch fabric, as this will affect the fit, and then adjust accordingly.
- Again, for best fit, we recommend completing a muslin to check for your personal body shape.
- Muslin – For the best fit, make a muslin (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) using the front and back pieces to check the fit and see if you wish to make any adjustments for your body.
- You will need a stretch/knit fabric for the Advanced Bralette. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. The same fabric can be used for the main and lining.
- Fabric needs to have at least 30% stretch to achieve the intended fit. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. i.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This ensures your bralette maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- You can use light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, Liverpool, double brushed polyester, modal etc.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh – For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to your Front and Back Lining.
- ⅜ inch wide clear Elastic – approximately 5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. This is added to the neckline, armscye, optional underbust seam and optional waist seam.
- OPTIONAL 1-inch wide Under Bust Enclosed Elastic – approximately 1.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Under Bust Exposed 1 to 3-inch wide Plush backed Elastic – approximately 1.2 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- Straps – Cut 2
- Straps – Cut 2
- Long Strap – Cut 2
- Middle Strap – Cut 2
- Short Strap – Cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Strap 1 – Cut 1
- Strap 2 – Cut 1
- Back – Main cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Long Strap – Cut 1
- Middle Strap – Cut 1
- Short Strap – Cut 1
- Back – Main cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Strap 1 – Cut 1
- Strap 2 – Cut 1
- Strap 3 – Cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Straps – Cut 2 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Back Triangle – Fabric cut 1, Lining Cut 1
- Long Strap – Cut 2
- Middle Strap – Cut 2
- Short Strap – Cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Strap 1 – Cut 1
- Strap 2 – Cut 1
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewAdvanced Bralette Add-On
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This is an add-on to the Basic Bralette and Tank. You will need the Basic Bralette and Tank pattern, as well as this pattern in order to be able to make the options in this pattern.
The Advanced Bralette is a pullover style with a front scoop neckline, created for comfort and ease. There are three different back styles: racer, scoop or straight, each with three strap options to choose from. The side seams fall to the front, giving additional bust support, while the shoulder seams on the racer or scoop back options, roll to the back, preventing them from digging into your shoulders. It is double-lined, enclosing the seams, and for additional support and coverage.
The sizing is the same as the main pattern. Seam allowances are also the same.
The layout to this add-on is different than the main pattern. The fitting notes, fabric requirements and cutting instructions can be found within each option’s section.
First, decide which option you wish to make, then follow the instructions within that section. Make sure to check the Printing Section for which pattern pages to print for the size you are doing. You will not need to print all pattern pages.
The Options
Here are the options within this Add-On.
OPTION A: Racer Back with Straight Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and racer back, created for comfort and ease. It has two back straps joined in from the shoulder seams just off center of the underbust. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION B: Racer Back with Cross Over Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and racer back, created for comfort and ease. It has two back straps joined in from the shoulder seams, crossing over the back and joined to the underbust. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION C: Racer Back with Six Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and racer back, created for comfort and ease. It has three straps on either side of the racer back. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION D: Scoop Back with T-Back
A pullover style with a front and back scoop neckline, created for comfort and ease. It has two back straps creating a T shape. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION E: Scoop Back with Three Straps
A pullover style with a front and back scoop neckline, created for comfort and ease. It has three straps running horizontally across the back. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION F: Scoop Back with Star Shape Straps
A pullover style with a front and back scoop neckline, created for comfort and ease. There are four straps creating a star shape. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION G: Straight Back with Twist Top Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and straight back, created for comfort and ease. It has two wide straps twisted together vertically and joined to the shoulder seam. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION H: Straight Back with Triangle Back Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and straight back, created for comfort and ease. It has three straps on either side, creating a triangle shape. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION I: Straight Back with Vertical Twist Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and straight back, created for comfort and ease. The top strap is joined into the shoulder seam and the lower strap is twisted over the top, joining into the top edge of the back. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bust
Hem
Length including band
XXS
29.0
24.0
15.5
XS
30.6
25.5
15.7
S
32.5
27.0
16.0
M
34.5
28.5
16.2
L
36.2
30.0
16.3
XL
39.0
32.5
17.0
XXL
42.0
34.7
17.5
3XL
44.6
37.0
18.2
4XL
47.5
39.3
18.6
5XL
50.1
41.6
19.2
Fitting NotesThis Bralette Tank Top is not intended to be worn without a bra. If you are using it as a workout top, we recommend wearing a sports bra underneath.
If you get stuck with fitting. see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
Materials and ToolsFabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
ALL One Fabric
Color Block Option
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
OPTIONAL Band
XXS – M
1.00
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
L – 3XL
1.25
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
4XL – 5XL
1.50
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are. sewing machine. pins. scissors. tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
XXS – 5XL
6, 12
7, 13
9-11
2-5, 8-9
2-4, 8-9
2-4, 8-10
14-17
2, 11, 14-15
12, 14-18
+A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
A B C D E F G H I XXS – XS 6, 12 7, 13 9-11 3-5, 8-9 3-4, 8-9 3-4, 8-10 14-17 2, 5, 11, 14-15 12, 14-18 S – L 6, 12 7, 13 9-11 2-5, 8-9 2-4, 8-9 2-4, 8-10 14-17 2, 5, 11, 14-15 12, 14-18 XL – 5XL 6, 12 7, 13 9-11 2-6, 8-9 2-4, 8-9 2-4, 8-10 14-17 2, 5, 11, 14-15 12, 14-18 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included. However, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart. the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:
OPTIONAL Band
(Cut 1)OPTIONAL Under Bust (Enclosed/Exposed) Elastic (Cut 1)
OPTION I: Strap 2
(Cut 1)Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
3.0
24.4
1.0
23.0
3.0
11.1
XS
3.0
26.0
1.0
24.7
3.1
11.2
S
3.0
28.0
1.0
26.4
3.2
11.5
M
3.0
29.1
1.0
28.1
3.4
12.1
L
3.0
30.5
1.0
30.0
3.6
12.3
XL
3.0
33.1
1.0
31.5
4.0
12.7
XXL
3.0
35.3
1.0
34.0
4.1
13.1
3XL
3.0
37.6
1.0
36.6
4.4
13.5
4XL
3.0
40.0
1.0
39.1
4.6
14.1
5XL
3.0
42.2
1.0
41.7
4.8
14.3
Before cutting out, you need to decide which option/s you are going to use. The available options are:
Pattern Pieces
OPTION A: Racer Back with Straight Straps
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, Back, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
OPTION B: Racer Back with Cross Over Straps
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, Back, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
OPTION C: Racer Back with Six Straps
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, Back, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
OPTION D: Scoop Back with T-Back
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
OPTION E: Scoop Back with Three Straps
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
OPTION F: Scoop Back with Star Shaped Back
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
OPTION G: Straight Back with Vertical Twist Straps
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
OPTION H: Straight Back with Triangle Back Straps
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
OPTION I: Straight Back with Twist Top Straps
You will also need the following pieces from the Basic Bralette pattern: Front, OPTIONAL Band, OPTIONAL Power Mesh, OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt or OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt pieces
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold. fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges. leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Cut Checklist:
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Baste the Front Power Mesh to the Front Lining. Repeat for the Back.
- OPTION A – Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Repeat for the other Strap. Lay the Main Back right side facing up. Place Straps at the center of the shoulders. Baste. Lay the Straps flat, then move 1 inch towards center back and match the edges. Baste. Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
- OPTION B – Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Repeat for other Strap. Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. Place the angled edge of the Straps at the center of the shoulders. Baste. Cross one Strap over the other and match the raw edges to the bottom edge. Baste. Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
- OPTION C – Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Trim. Repeat for all five Strap pieces. Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. T Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. Take one of the Long Straps and place it 1.5 inch down from the shoulder. Pin. Place the Middle Strap 1 inch away from the Long Strap and the Short Strap 1 inch away from the Middle Strap. Pin. Baste. Take the shoulder and fold it down, right sides together. Take the shoulder and fold it down, right sides together. Take the Long Strap and place it 1 ⅜ inches from the side seam. Pin. Place the Middle Strap 1 inch away from the Long Strap and the Short Strap 1 inch from the Middle Strap. Pin. Baste. Repeat to attach the other set of three Straps. Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
- OPTION D – Fold Strap 1 in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Lay Strap 2 right sides facing up. Place Strap 1 onto Strap 2, matching the straight edge to the pattern marking. Baste. Fold Strap 1 up. Fold Strap 2 in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Lay the Main Back right sides facing up. Place Strap 1 at the pattern marking in the middle of the neckline. Baste. Pick up the bottom left side of the longer Strap and bring it up to the pattern marking. Baste. Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
- OPTION E – Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Repeat for the other two Straps. Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. Place the folded edge of the Long Strap at the pattern marking on either side of the neckline. Pin. Measure the curve of the neckline from the bottom edge of the Long Strap and divide it into thirds and mark them. Place the Middle Strap at the first marking and the Short Strap at the second marking. Pin. Baste. Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
- OPTION F – Fold Strap 1 in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Repeat for both Strap 3 pieces. Fold Strap 2 in half and mark the center. Lay Strap 2 wrong side facing up. Place Strap 1, wrong side facing up, at the center, matching straight raw edges. Stitch. Fold the basted Strap up. Fold Strap 2 in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Place Main Back right side facing up. Mark the center and the quarter of the neckline. Take the T-Strap and place the horizontal Straps at the quarter markings, right sides together. Pin. Take the vertical Strap and place at the center of the neckline, right sides together. Baste. Take one Strap 3 and place the folded edge at the pattern marking, right sides together. Pin. Take the other end and place it half way between the Vertical and horizontal T-Strap, right sides together. Pin. Repeat with the other Strap 3, attaching it to the opposite sides. Baste. Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial. Center the diagonal Straps over the T-Strap, centering the Straps. Stitch.
- OPTION G – Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Repeat for the other Strap. Lay the Main Front right side facing up. Place the shorter raw edge of each Strap at the shoulders, right sides together. Baste. Place your Front Lining on top of the Main Front, right sides together. Pin at the shoulders. Stitch. Pin the Main and Lining together along the neckline and armscye, right sides together. Stitch. Then follow steps 3.3 to 3.11 to attach the neckline elastic, and steps 4.7 to 4.8 to attach the armscye elastic, from the Basic Bralette tutorial. Turn the Front right side out and press. Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Take the Straps and cross them over each other. Then twist and cross them over each other again. Lay the Main Back right side facing up with the straight edge at the top. Place the raw edges of the Straps at the pattern markings, right sides together. Baste. Place the Back Lining on top of the Main Back, right sides together, matching the straight edge. Stitch. Cut elastic length of the seam and stitch. Flip the Back Lining over, wrong sides together. Press. Lay Bralette right side facing up. Take the Main Back side seam and place it onto the Main Front side seam. Pin. Take the Back Lining and place it onto the Front Lining, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Repeat steps for the other side. Flip right side out and press. Follow steps 6, 7 or 8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach a Band to the Bralette.
- OPTION H – Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Turn, press, and trim. Repeat for all five Straps. Lay the Main Back Triangle right sides facing up. Measure ⅜ inch from the top edge. Place the top edge of the Short Strap here. Pin. Measure ⅜ inch from the bottom edge. Place the top edge of the Long Strap here. Pin. Place the Middle Strap in the middle of these Straps. Pin. Baste. Repeat to attach the other three Straps. Fold the Straps into the middle. Place the Back Triangle Lining on top, right sides together. Pin along the sides and top, leaving the bottom edge open. Stitch. Turn and press. Lay the Main Front right side facing up. Take the longest Strap and place it at the shoulder, ⅜ from the edge. Pin. Place the middle Strap next to it and the shortest Strap at the other edge, ⅜ from the edge. Pin. Baste. Repeat for the other side. Place the Front Lining on top, right sides together, matching shoulders. Stitch. Push the Triangle and Straps inside the two layers. Pin the neckline of the Main and Lining right sides together. Stitch. Follow steps 3.3 to 3.10 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach elastic to the neckline. Pin the Main and Lining together along the armscye on each side. Stitch. Follow steps 4.7 to 4.8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach elastic to the armscye. Turn the Front and press. Mark the center of the Main Back and the Triangle. Lay the Main Back right side facing up with the straight edge at the top. Place the triangle on top, right sides together, matching center points. Baste. Place the Back Lining on top of the Main Back, right sides together, matching the straight edge. Stitch. Cut elastic the length of the seam. Stitch to seam. Flip the Back Lining over and press the seam. Follow steps 5.1 to 5.6 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to stitch the side seams together. Follow steps 6, 7 or 8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach a Band to the Bralette.
- OPTION I – Fold the Strap 1 in half, right sides together. Stitch. Turn and press. Repeat for Strap 2. Lay the Main Back right side facing up with the straight edge at the top. Place one short raw edge of the Strap 1 at the left pattern marking, right sides together. Pin. Take other end of Strap 1 and place it onto the right pattern marking, right sides together, creating a twist. Baste. Take Strap 2 and slide it through the stitched Strap 1, creating a twist. Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Place short ends of Strap 2 at shoulders, right sides together. Baste. Place the Front Lining on top, right sides together, matching shoulders. Stitch. Push Straps inside. Pin neckline of Main and Lining right sides together. Stitch. Follow steps 3.3 to 3.10 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach elastic to the neckline. Pin the Main and Lining together along the armscye on each side. Stitch. Follow steps 4.7 to 4.8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach elastic to the armscye. Repeat for the other side. Turn and press. Lay the Main Back right side facing up. Place the Back Lining on top, right sides together, matching the top straight edge. Stitch. Cut elastic length of seam. Stitch elastic to seam. Turn and press. Follow steps 5.1 to 5.6 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to stitch the side seams together. Flip right side out. Press. Follow steps 6, 7 or 8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach a Band to the Bralette.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings. Mark the pattern using either tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, or pins.
0.2OPTIONAL Power Mesh
If adding OPTIONAL Power Mesh, follow the preparation step in the Basic Bralette tutorial.
1 . OPTION A: Racer Back with Straight Straps1.1Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.3Turn right side out and press with seam to the side.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the other Strap.
1.4Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. Place a Strap at the center of the shoulder. Pin.
Repeat for the other Strap.
1.5Baste both Straps using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.6Lay the Straps flat and straight, directly underneath where they are attached at the shoulder, then move them towards the center back by 1 inch and match raw edges. Find the center of the Back and check the Straps are equally distant from the center. Pin.
1.7Baste both Straps using ¼ seam allowance.
1.8Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
NOTE – The Straps will be stitched into the shoulders and the OPTIONAL Band or Elastic.
2 . OPTION B: Racer Back with Cross Over Straps2.1Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.3Turn right side out and press with seam to the side.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the other Strap.
2.4Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. Place the angled edge of the Strap at the center of the shoulder. Pin.
Repeat for the other Strap.
2.5Baste both Straps using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2.6Cross one Strap over the other and match the raw edges to the bottom raw edge so that the Straps lie flat. Find the center of the Back and check the Straps are equally distant from the center. Pin.
2.7Baste both Straps using ¼ seam allowance.
Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
NOTE – The Straps will be stitched into the shoulders and the OPTIONAL Band or Elastic.
3 . OPTION C: Racer Back with Six Straps3.1Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.3Turn right side out and press with seam to the side.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
3.4Trim the small triangle piece at the ends of the Strap.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for all five Strap pieces.
3.5Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. Take one of the Long Straps and place it 1.5 inch down from the shoulder. Pin.
Place the Middle Strap 1 inch away from the Long Strap and the Short Strap 1 inch away from the Middle Strap. Pin.
3.6Baste all Straps using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
3.7Take the shoulder and fold it down, right sides together with the Main Back. Take the Long Strap and place it 1 ⅜ inches from the side seam along the armscye. Pin.
Place the Middle Strap 1 inch away from the Long Strap and the Short Strap 1 inch from the Middle Strap. Pin.
3.8Baste all Straps using ¼ seam allowance.
3.9Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.8 to attach the other set of three Straps.
Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
NOTE – Check that the Straps are out of the way when sewing the armscyes.
4 . OPTION D: Scoop Back with T-Back4.1Fold Strap 1 in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
4.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.3Turn right side out and press with seam to the back.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
4.4Lay Strap 2 right sides facing up. Place Strap 1 onto Strap 2, right sides together, matching the straight edge to the pattern marking. Pin.
NOTE – The seam of Strap 1 will be facing up.
4.5Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
4.6Roll Strap 1 up inside Strap 2. Fold Strap 2 in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – Check that only the basted edge of Strap 1 is pinned.
4.7Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Make sure Strap 1 is out of the way when sewing.
4.8Turn right side out and press.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
4.9Lay the Main Back right sides facing up. Find the center of the neckline. Place Strap 1 onto the neckline, matching centers. Pin.
4.10Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
4.11Pick up the bottom left side of the longer Strap and bring it up to the pattern marking, matching the folded edge of the Strap to the marking. Pin.
NOTE – Check you are attaching the correct side of the Strap to the right side of the Main Back.
4.12Repeat step 4.11 on the other side.
4.13Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
4.14Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
NOTE – Check that the Straps are out of the way when sewing the neckline and armscyes.
5 . OPTION E: Scoop Back with Three Straps5.1Fold Strap 1 in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
5.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.3Turn right side out and press with seam to one side.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
5.4Repeat for the other two Straps.
5.5Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up.
Place the folded edge of the Long Strap at the pattern marking on either side of the neckline. Pin.
Measure the curve of the neckline from the bottom edge of the Long Strap and divide it into thirds and mark them.
Place the Middle Strap at the first marking and the Short Strap at the second marking. Pin.
5.6Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
5.7Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
NOTE – Check that the Straps are out of the way when sewing the neckline and armscyes. The neckline will not lay flat when sewing together.
6 . OPTION F: Scoop Back with Star Shape Straps6.1Fold Strap 1 in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6.3Turn right side out and press.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
6.4Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for both Strap 3 pieces.
6.5Fold Strap 2 in half and mark the center.
6.6Lay Strap 2 wrong side facing up. Place Strap 1 at the center, matching straight raw edges.
NOTE – The seam of Strap 1 will be facing up.
6.7Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – This will now be called the T-Strap.
6.8Roll Strap 1 up inside Strap 2. Fold Strap 2 in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – Check that only the basted edge of Strap 1 is pinned.
6.9Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Make sure Strap 1 is out of the way when sewing.
6.10Turn right side out and press.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
6.11Place Main Back right side facing up. Mark the center and the quarter of the neckline.
Take the T-Strap and place the horizontal Straps at the quarter markings, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
Take the vertical Strap and place at the center of the neckline, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
6.12Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
6.13Take one Strap 3 and place the folded edge at the pattern marking, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
Take the other end and place it half way between the vertical and horizontal T-Strap, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
Repeat with the other Strap 3, attaching it to the opposite sides.
NOTE – The diagonal Straps should be crossing over the top of the T-Strap.
6.14Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
NOTE – The diagonal Straps and T-Strap will NOT be attached to each other at this step. This will be done once the Bralette is sewn together.
6.15Follow steps 2 to 13 from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
NOTE – Check that the Straps are out of the way when sewing the neckline. The neckline will not lay flat when sewing together.
Then follow step 6.16 below.
6.16Center the diagonal Straps over the T-Strap, centering the Straps. Pin.
6.17Stitch across the Straps to secure them.
TIP – Use matching thread as these stitches will be visible.
7 . OPTION G: Straight Back with Twist Top Straps7.1Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7.3Turn right side out and press with the seam to the side.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
7.4Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for the other Strap.
7.5Lay the Main Front right side facing up. Place the shorter raw edge of each Strap at the shoulders, right sides together. Pin.
7.6Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
7.7Place your Front Lining on top of the Main Front, right sides together. Pin at the shoulders.
7.8Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7.9Pin the Main and Lining together along the neckline and armscye, right sides together.
NOTE – Check that your Straps are out of the way when pinning.
7.10Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Then follow steps 3.3 to 3.11 to attach the neckline elastic, and steps 4.7 to 4.8 to attach the armscye elastic, from the Basic Bralette tutorial.
NOTE – You are only attaching the elastic to the Front.
7.11Turn the Front right side out and press.
7.12Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Take the Straps and cross them over each other. Then twist and cross them over each other again.
TIP – Pin the Straps together in the center where they twist over each other to stop it untwisting.
7.13Lay the Main Back right side facing up with the straight edge at the top. Place the raw edges of the Straps onto the Back, right sides together, matching the straight folded edge of the Strap at the pattern markings. Pin.
7.14Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.15Place the Back Lining on top of the Main Back, right sides together, matching the straight edge. Pin.
7.16Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7.17Cut a piece of elastic the length of the seam. Place the elastic at the seam. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
7.18Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic using a zig zag or stretch stitch.
7.19Flip the Back Lining over, wrong sides together. Press the seam.
7.20Lay the Bralette right side facing up. Take the Main Back side seam and place it onto the Main Front side seam. Pin.
Take the Back Lining and place it onto the Front Lining, right sides together. Pin.
7.21Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7.22Repeat steps 7.19 to 7.21 for the other side.
7.23Flip right side out and press.
Follow steps 6, 7 or 8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach a Band to the Bralette.
8 . OPTION H: Straight Back with Triangle Back Straps8.1Fold a Strap in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
8.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.3Turn right side out and press with seam to the side.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
8.4Trim the small triangle piece at the end of the Strap.
8.5Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.4 for the other five Straps.
8.6Lay the Main Back Triangle right sides facing up. You will need a set of three straps – one of each length.
Measure ⅜ inch from the top edge. Place the top edge of the Short Strap here. Pin.
Measure ⅜ inch from the bottom edge. Place the top edge of the Long Strap here. Pin.
Place the Middle Strap in the middle of these Straps. Pin.
8.7Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
8.8Repeat steps 8.6 to 8.7 to attach the other three Straps to the other side of the Main Back Triangle.
8.9Fold the Straps into the middle. Place the Back Triangle Lining on top, right sides together. Pin along the sides and top, leaving the bottom edge open.
NOTE – Check that the Straps are out of the way and not pinned into the seams.
8.10Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.11Turn right side out and press.
TIP – Push out the corner with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
8.12Lay the Main Front right side facing up. Take the longest Strap and place it at the shoulder, ⅜ from the edge. Pin.
Place the middle Strap next to it and the shortest Strap at the other edge, ⅜ from the edge. Pin.
8.13Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
8.14Repeat steps 8.12 to 8.13 for the other side.
8.15Place the Front Lining on top, right sides together, matching shoulders. Pin.
8.16Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.17Push the Back Triangle and Straps inside the two layers. Pin the neckline of the Main and Lining right sides together.
8.18Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Follow steps 3.3 to 3.10 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach elastic to the neckline. You are only attaching the elastic to the Front neckline.
8.19Pin the Main and Lining together along the armscye on each side.
8.20Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Follow steps 4.7 to 4.8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach elastic to the armscye. You are only attaching the elastic to the Front armscyes.
8.21Turn the Front right side out and press.
8.22Mark the center of the Main Back and the Main Back Triangle.
8.23Lay the Main Back right side facing up with the straight edge at the top. Place the triangle on top, right sides together, matching center points. Pin.
NOTE – The Front is laying right side down.
8.24Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
8.25Place the Back Lining on top of the Main Back, right sides together, matching the straight edge. Pin.
8.26Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.27Cut a piece of elastic the length of the seam. Place the elastic at the seam. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
8.28Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic using a zig zag or stretch stitch.
8.29Flip the Back Lining over and press the seam.
8.30Follow steps 5.1 to 5.6 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to stitch the side seams together.
8.31Follow steps 6, 7 or 8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach a Band to the Bralette.
9 . OPTION I: Straight Back with Vertical Twist Straps9.1Fold the Strap 1 in half, right sides together. Pin.
9.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
9.3Turn right side out and press with seam to the side.
TIP – Use a loop turner to turn the Strap. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.
9.4Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.3 for Strap 2.
9.5Lay the Main Back right side facing up with the straight edge at the top. Place one short raw edge of Strap 1, right sides together, matching the stitched edge of the Strap at the left pattern marking. Pin.
9.6Take the other short end of Strap 1 and place the folded edge onto the right pattern marking, right sides together, creating a twist. Pin.
9.7Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
9.8Take Strap 2 and slide it through Strap 1, creating a twist.
9.9Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Place the short ends of Strap 2 at the center of the shoulders, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – Your Main Back will be wrong sides to the Main Front right side.
9.10Baste using ¼ seam allowance.
9.11Place the Front Lining on top, right sides together, matching shoulders. Pin.
9.12Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
9.13Push the Straps inside the two layers. Pin the neckline of the Main and Lining right sides together.
9.14Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
9.15Follow steps 3.3 to 3.10 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach elastic to the neckline.
NOTE – You are only attaching the elastic to the Front neckline.
9.16Pin the Main and Lining together along the armscye on each side.
NOTE – Check that the Straps are tucked inside and out of the way.
9.17Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
9.18Follow steps 4.7 to 4.8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach elastic to the armscye. You are only attaching the elastic to the Front armscyes.
Repeat steps 9.16 to 9.18 for the other side.
9.19Turn right side out and Press.
9.20Lay the Main Back right side facing up. Place the Back Lining on top, right sides together, matching the top straight edge. Pin.
9.21Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
9.22Cut a piece of elastic the length of the seam. Place the elastic at the seam. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
9.23Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic using a zig zag or stretch stitch.
9.24Turn right side out and press.
9.25Follow steps 5.1 to 5.6 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to stitch the side seams together.
9.26Flip right side out. Press.
9.27Follow steps 6, 7 or 8 from the Basic Bralette tutorial to attach a Band to the Bralette.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations. your Advanced Bralette Add-on is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
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Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewAdvanced Bralette Add-On
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This is an add-on to the Basic Bralette and Tank. You will need the Basic Bralette and Tank pattern, as well as this pattern in order to be able to make the options in this pattern.
The Advanced Bralette is a pullover style with a front scoop neckline, created for comfort and ease. There are three different back styles: racer, scoop or straight, each with three strap options to choose from. The side seams fall to the front, giving additional bust support, while the shoulder seams on the racer or scoop back options, roll to the back, preventing them from digging into your shoulders. It is double-lined, enclosing the seams, and for additional support and coverage.
The sizing is the same as the main pattern. Seam allowances are also the same.
The layout to this add-on is different than the main pattern. The fitting notes, fabric requirements and cutting instructions can be found within each option’s section.
First, decide which option you wish to make, then follow the instructions within that section. Make sure to check the Printing Section for which pattern pages to print for the size you are doing. You will not need to print all pattern pages.
The Options
Here are the options within this Add-On.
OPTION A: Racer Back with Straight Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and racer back, created for comfort and ease. It has two back straps joined in from the shoulder seams just off center of the underbust. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION B: Racer Back with Cross Over Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and racer back, created for comfort and ease. It has two back straps joined in from the shoulder seams, crossing over the back and joined to the underbust. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION C: Racer Back with Six Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and racer back, created for comfort and ease. It has three straps on either side of the racer back. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION D: Scoop Back with T-Back
A pullover style with a front and back scoop neckline, created for comfort and ease. It has two back straps creating a T shape. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION E: Scoop Back with Three Straps
A pullover style with a front and back scoop neckline, created for comfort and ease. It has three straps running horizontally across the back. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION F: Scoop Back with Star Shape Straps
A pullover style with a front and back scoop neckline, created for comfort and ease. There are four straps creating a star shape. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION G: Straight Back with Twist Top Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and straight back, created for comfort and ease. It has two wide straps twisted together vertically and joined to the shoulder seam. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION H: Straight Back with Triangle Back Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and straight back, created for comfort and ease. It has three straps on either side, creating a triangle shape. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
OPTION I: Straight Back with Vertical Twist Straps
A pullover style with a front scoop neckline and straight back, created for comfort and ease. The top strap is joined into the shoulder seam and the lower strap is twisted over the top, joining into the top edge of the back. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic, or add the gathered front or pleated skirt from the Basic Brallete and Tank to create a tank top version.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bust
Hem
Length including band
XXS
29.0
24.0
15.5
XS
30.6
25.5
15.7
S
32.5
27.0
16.0
M
34.5
28.5
16.2
L
36.2
30.0
16.3
XL
39.0
32.5
17.0
XXL
42.0
34.7
17.5
3XL
44.6
37.0
18.2
4XL
47.5
39.3
18.6
5XL
50.1
41.6
19.2
Materials and Tools- You will need a stretch/knit fabric for the Advanced Bralette. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. The same fabric can be used for the main and lining.
- Fabric needs to have at least 30% stretch to achieve the intended fit. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. i.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This ensures your bralette maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- You can use light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, Liverpool, double brushed polyester, modal etc.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh – For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to your Front and Back Lining.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
ALL One Fabric
Color Block Option
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
OPTIONAL Band
XXS – M
1.00
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
L – 3XL
1.25
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
4XL – 5XL
1.50
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ⅜ inch wide clear Elastic – approximately 5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. This is added to the neckline, armscye, optional underbust seam and optional waist seam.
- OPTIONAL 1-inch wide Under Bust Enclosed Elastic – approximately 1.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Under Bust Exposed 1 to 3-inch wide Plush backed Elastic – approximately 1.2 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are. sewing machine. pins. scissors. tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
