Betty Petticoat

NOTE – In the tutorial you will see references to tulle or netting where the photo is a quilting cotton. Tulle when photographed can be hard to see detail on, so we have used cotton instead to make sure the photos are easy to understand. Please follow the same steps but using your fabric type instead.

Think of each Frill as a tier on a cake. The top Frill is the top tier. The middle Frill is the middle tier. The bottom Frill is the bottom tier. Each tier gets stitched into a circle, then gathered and stitched to the one above it. The top tier will then be gathered and stitched to the Top Skirt piece in a later step. Depending on how full you want your petticoat, you will either have one layer of Frills or two.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If any of your Frills have been cut in pieces, serge them right sides together now so each Frill is one long piece. Serge the short ends of each tier together using a ½ inch seam allowance, so it is now a large circle. Run two rows of basting stitches at the top of each tier. Pin the middle Frill to the bottom edge of the top Frill with right sides together, gather to fit and serge. Repeat to gather and attach the bottom Frill to the middle Frill. Your Frills should now form a complete circle and be tiered as top, middle, and bottom. If you are doing a second layer of Frills, repeat to form your second layer of Frills. Remove any visible gathering stitches.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

If all of your Frills are already one long piece each, skip to step 1.5.

If you have had to cut any of your Frills in several shorter pieces to make up the full length and are using cotton (not tulle or netting), skip to step 1.2.

If you have had to cut any of your Frills in several shorter pieces to make up the full length and are use tulle or netting, stitch as below.

For each section that needs stitching together, with the right sides together and pin along the short edge. Stitch the pieces together using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to tidy it, then press the seam allowance to one side. Skip to step 1.5.

If you are using cotton (not tulle or netting), the raw edges can fray, so we are going to do French seams to stitch the sections of each Frill together into one long strip. 

The reason we will be doing a French seam is to hide all the raw edges and give a cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. 

For each section that needs stitching together, with wrong sides together (right sides outwards), stitch ¼ inch from the edge.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. 

TIP – you are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the piece so they are right sides together and press the side seam. 

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.4 to stitch all the sections of each Frill together.

If you are doing one layer of Frills, you should now have 1x long strip for the top tier, 1x even longer strip for the middle tier, and 1x even longer again strip for the bottom tier.

If you are doing two layers of Frills, you should now have two of each of the above rather than one.

Now, we need to join each tier into a circle.

If you are using tulle, place the short ends of one of the Frill pieces with the right sides together and stitch to create a large loop/circle. Skip to step 1.6.

If you are using cotton, place the short ends of one of the Frill pieces with the wrong sides together and follow steps 1.2-1.4 to stitch them together using a French Seam to create a large loop/circle. Skip to step 1.6.

If you have a preferred method of gathering, do this now to gather the top of each Frill tier.

If not, follow along below. We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches across the top of each tier of Frill. 

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, I like to stitch in several sections. If you your tier is constructed out of several shorter lengths, you could start at one seam and sew to the next seam. Otherwise, you could stitch in halves or quarters. This gives several sections of gathering which are much easier to gather later than one big long section. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo). Start stitching again just after the side seam, and stitch around to the next seam. 

You should now have two rows of gathering stitches all the way across the top of your lower netting.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This makes gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That helps to differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up any leftover bobbin threads from other projects.

Divide each of the tiers into quarter points. Mark with a pin, washable fabric marker, or chalk.

With the middle tier right side out and the bottom tier wrong side out, align the bottom raw edge of the second tier with the upper raw edge of the third tier where you’ve put the gathering stitches. Match up your quarter marks and pin the tiers together.

To gather your tier, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the fabric. Gather the fabric all the way across the quarter you are working on until the fabric in that section fits the tier above.

You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers, so it looks evenly gathered.

Continue to gather the bottom tier in quarters between the markings until it matches the width of the bottom edge of the middle tier.

Stitch the tiers together using a ½ inch seam allowance. This should allow you to stitch directly between the two rows of gathering stitches. 

Once you’ve full stitched the tier on, pull on the bobbin threads to remove the gathering stitches. 

Repeat steps 1.7 to 1.9 to gather and stitch the middle tier to the top tier.

If you want as puffy a petticoat as possible, skip to step 1.10. If you would like your petticoat less puffy, press the seam allowances upwards. Take care if you are using netting or tulle that your iron is on an appropriate setting to not burn or melt your fabric.

If you are using netting or tulle, skip to step 2.

If you are using cotton, continue below.

If you are using cotton or fraying fabric you will need to finish the seams between the tiers. You can do this with either a zig zag stitch or by using an overlock stitch on your sewing machine. After stitching, trim the seam allowance to neaten.

Do this for each of the tiers and then skip to step 2.

Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape as follows:

Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape and press one short side under ¼ inch and press.

Trim the seam allowance to neaten (do not remove much length).

Align the fold on the right side of your bias tape with the seam on the wrong side of the skirt. Don’t align the edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of the tier. Keep the fold of the bias tape aligned with the seam.

Pin the bias tape all the way along the seam line of the tiers and then overlap the bias with where you started by ½ inch.

Trim the excess bias tape.

Stitch in place by stitching along the fold on the bias tape. Your stitching should be directly on top of the tier seam.

Fold the bias over the seam and pin to enclose all edges.

Edge stitch along the bias, making sure not to catch the tier under your stitches. Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the tier.

OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the tier ¼ inch from the seam on the tier above, so that it lays flat against the garment.  Repeat for remaining tier seams.

Place the Top Skirt pieces with the right sides together and pin down the side seams.

Serge or sew using a stretch stitch on your sewing machine down both side seams, using a ½ inch seam allowance.

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch or zig zag.

Place the Waistband pieces with the right sides together, matching the short sides and pin. Stitch using a stretch stitch, or serge along the short side seams using a ½ inch seam allowance.

The Waistband should now form a circle.

If you are not doing the Waistband elastic, skip to step 3.3.

If you are doing the Waistband elastic, overlap the raw edges of your elastic by ½ inch, ensuring your elastic is not twisted (the elastic should be 1 inch smaller now than before). Sew together using a zig zag stitch, going back and forwards a few times to secure.

Place your elastic circle inside your Waistband so that it is sandwiched between the two wrong sides.

Fold the Waistband over in half from top to bottom, with the wrong side together, lining up both raw edges. 

You should still have a circle, but it will now be half the height and your elastic will be inside the Waistband.

Divide the Waistband into quarters and mark the quarter points on the raw edges with a pin, washable fabric marker or chalk.

Skip to step 4.

If you are not doing the Waistband elastic, fit check the Waistband. Try it on and check if it has a snug, but not tight fit. If it is loose, tighten it by bringing one of the side seams in to make it smaller. Check the fit again. It needs to be snug, so the petticoat does not fall down, but not so tight that is uncomfortable. 

When you are happy with the fit, fold the Waistband in half from top to bottom, wrong sides together, lining up both raw edges. 

Divide the Waistband into quarters and mark the quarter points on the raw edges with a pin, washable fabric marker or chalk.

Then, skip to step 4.

Divide the top edge of the skirt into quarters and mark the quarter points on the raw edges with a pin, washable fabric marker or chalk.

With the skirt right side out, place the folded Waistband over the skirt, so that the raw edges of the Waistband and skirt line up.

Align the Waistband seams with the skirt seams. Match the quarter points and pin the Waistband and skirt together.

Stitch using a stretch stitch or serge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.

TIP – Face the Waistband seam allowances the opposite way to the skirt seam allowances, to prevent bulk.

Pull the Waistband up and away from the skirt and press the seam allowance down towards the skirt.

OPTIONAL – Top stitch the Waistband/skirt joining the seam using a stretch stitch or twin needle. If you do this, make sure to practice on your fabric first to ensure it will not stretch the fabric.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the skirt lining pieces right sides together. Pin the side seams and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press to the side. Then, skip to step 6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt pieces together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Skirt Lining pieces together along the side seam. 

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge along both side seams. Backstitch at both ends.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam lines are at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge on each side seam. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Run two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the lining (the edge that will attach to the Top Skirt). Use the same method we did in step 1.6.

Divide the top edge of the Skirt Lining into quarter points. Mark with a pin, washable fabric marker, or chalk.

Repeat step 6.1 for the bottom edge of the Top Skirt to divide this into quarters.

Repeat step 6.1 to divide the top edge of the tiers into quarters.

If you have two layers of tiers, do this for both layers.

With the tiers wrong side out and the Top Skirt right side out, gather the tiers until they align with the bottom raw edge of the Top Skirt. Match up your quarter marks and pin the tiers together.

Depending on the thickness of your fabric, you may wish to now baste these layers together and remove the gathering stitches.

If you haven’t done it before, basting is where you use a long loose stitch (either a basting stitch or a gathering stitch as we used previously also works) to hold layers in place while you are working on a garment.

If you wish to baste, do this now using just under a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you have done a second layer of Frills, gather this to fit the bottom edge of the to skirt and pin and/or baste this one too.

With the Skirt Lining right side out, gather the Skirt Lining until it aligns with the edges of the tiers and Top Skirt. 

Match up your quarter marks and pin together. 

Your tiers will now be in between the Skirt Lining and Top Skirt, with all of the raw edges lined up.

Stitch the Skirt Lining, tiers and skirt top together using a ½ inch seam allowance and then remove the gather stitches. 

Press the seam if you are using fabric for your tiers.

If you are using tulle or netting for your Frills, trim, or serge the raw edge to neaten.

If you are using fabric you will need to finish the seam. You can do this with either a zig zag stitch or by serging the seam. 

Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape following steps 1.10 to 1.15.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Finish the edge of the hem of the Skirt Lining with the serger. Fold the hem under ½ inch and press. Topstitch in place. Repeat with the hem of the bottom tier(s) of the petticoat if you have used fabric. If you have used netting or tulle, trim to neaten if needed.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

If you have used netting or tulle for your Frills, trim the bottom hem to neaten, if needed. Then, skip to step 7.3.

If you have used fabric for your Frills, for each layer of Frill, turn the hem of the bottom tier under ¼ inch, and press.

Turn the hem under another ¼ inch and press. The raw edges will now be enclosed in the folds. Then topstitch in place by stitching close to the folded edge. 

TIP – You want your stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the skirt as much as possible so that it looks nice and neat from the outside. To do this, use your presser foot or a marking on your foot plate on your sewing machine to line up your fabric so you get a nice even stitch all the way around.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 to hem the Skirt Lining.