Cami Romper & Dress

Cami Romper & Dress

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The Cami Romper & Dress is the perfect outfit pattern for every occasion! Whether you are a romper fanatic or prefer a breezy dress, need a beach coverup or sleepwear, or are heading out for a date night or brunch, this pattern will be your go-to!

The bodice is fully lined for better coverage and support. There is optional stitching down the side seam for your preferred coverage. Get started creating exactly what you want to wear!

Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes Women’s Sizes 1-10 and Women’s Curvy Sizes 6C-15C.

Note – The pattern is modeled here in our Women’s 1-10 sizing. When you purchase, you will receive our Women’s 1-10 sizing.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C

Size Chart

Finished Measurements (Inches)

This romper bodice is fitted through the bust, with the waist seam sitting at the natural waist. The bottoms of the romper are loose fitting, with elastic at the waist. The skirt is slightly longer in the back than the front.

• Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – Choose your size using the chest measurements. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes, then grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line. Start from your chest, grading out or in, to your waist. Then choose your romper or skirt size based on your hip measurements and grade out or in, to your waist size.
• Height adjustments – The pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you can add or remove length at different locations throughout the Romper.

Bodice: The bodice is designed to sit at the natural waist.

• If you wish to lengthen or shorten the bodice, you will need to lengthen or shorten the Front Bodice, and Back Bodice pieces. For the most accurate height adjustment, adjust 1 inch below the armhole to give more room in the bust area.
• For minor length adjustments, you may find no adjustment is needed, that you can simply shorten or length at the hem as preferred.
• Again, for best fit, we recommend completing a muslin to check for your personal body shape.

Bottom of the Romper:

• If you are taller/shorter or your inseam measurement is more/less than the finished inseam measurement above, you may need to add/remove from the legs (Front and back) at the mid-thigh, just above the hem. No need to adjust the elastic waistband. You may also need personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth (rise), sway back, thighs, and/or bum. Follow this tutorial for any further fitting advice.

• Bust adjustments –
  • The Women’s Regular pattern is designed for a sewing C cupbust (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. If the difference of your measurement is 3 inches, this is a sewing C cup. If the difference is more than 3 inches, you will need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial. If your bust is below a sewing C cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment.  However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well.
  • The Women’s Curvy pattern is designed for a sewing E cup(approximately, a ready-to-wear D cup). The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. If the difference of your measurement is 5 inches, this is a sewing E cup. If the difference is more than 5 inches, you will need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial. If your bust is below a sewing E cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment.  However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this dress:
  • Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
  • Cut out the following and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen: Front Bodice, Front Bodice Lining, Back Bodice, Back Bodice Lining, Straps, Front Legs, Back Legs (or Skirt Front and Back Skirt). Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
  • Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a light or medium weight fabric such as jersey, double brushed poly (DBP), bamboo spandex, rayon spandex, cotton spandex (CS) and French terry. 

Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.

** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• ⅜ inch Elastic – Waist seam – 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
• OPTIONAL ⅜ inch Elastic – Straps – ½ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
• OPTIONAL ⅜ inch Elastic – Back – 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
• OPTIONAL Stretch lace 
• All sizes Romper approximately 5 yards will be sufficient for shorts length, 7 yards for capri length. 
• All sizes Dress approximately 4 yards will be sufficient for tunic length 5 yards for knee length, 6 yards for ¾ length, and 7 yards for maxi length. 
• Thread to match

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Checklist: 

NOTE – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using the cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are included with the pieces below:

Romper Bodice :

Front Bodice (fabric, lining)
Back Bodice (fabric, lining)

Straps (2)

Romper Bottom OPTIONS:

Dress Front, Dress Back

OR

Front Leg, Back Leg

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

OPTIONAL Strap Elastic

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fiber. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem – ½ inch 

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings. 

Sewing –

1. STRAPS – Fold strap in half, right sides together. Pin and stitch along long raw edge. Optional – Stitch elastic to seam allowance. Turn right sides out. Press. Repeat for second strap. 
2. BODICE – Place Bodice Front main and lining right sides together along top edge. Pin and stitch, leaving a small gap at the top points to insert straps. Slide Strap into the gaps, pin and stitch. Reinforce with additional stitching. Turn Front right sides out and press. Optional – Understitch lining. Place Bodice Back main and lining right sides together along top edge. Pin and stitch. Turn right sides out and press. Open out both Front and Back, aligning them at the side seams, right sides together, and stitch. Optional – Trim bottom edge of lining by ⅛ inch. Turn right sides out, align bottom edge, baste lining to main. Align Straps to notch marking on back, pin in place. 
3. OPTIONAL ROMPER – Place Front to Back, right sides together, along inseam. Stitch. Finish hemline with either lace trim or by hemming Romper. Repeat for second leg. Align legs along rise right sides together and stitch. Overlap Front over Back, 1.5 inches for sizes 1 to 10, 2 inches for sizes 6C to 15C. Baste in place. Repeat for second side. 
4. OPTIONAL DRESS – Finish hemline with either lace trim or by hemming Dress Front and Back. Overlap Front over Back, 1.5 inches for sizes 1 to 10, 2 inches for sizes 6C to 15C. Baste in place. Repeat for second side.
5. ATTACHING BODICE TO BOTTOMS – Fit check elastic length, then overlap ends by ½ inch and stitch into a loop. Mark quarter points of elastic, bodice, and bottoms. Matching quarter points, attach elastic to wrong sides of top edge of bottoms. Matching quarter points, attach bodice to bottoms. Check fit and adjust strap length and placement as needed. Optional – Stitch Front over Back as desired. 

Congratulations, your Cami Romper & Dress is done. Enjoy!

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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