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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com.
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
17
Cheeky Underwear
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Make your day a little more cheeky! The Cheeky Underwear pattern is a super simple sew with a great fit that can be lined or unlined. You can add optional power mesh to the lined version for added tummy support. There are three rises; low, mid, or high, and four finishing options; picot, fold over or enclosed elastic, or bands. Mix and match the options to make yourself a complete set of beautiful and comfy underwear.
Includes Women’s sizes 1-10 and Women’s Curvy sizes 6C-15C.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing– Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting your Size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your waist measurement to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the edge of the leg using your hip measurement size.
- Height Adjustment – This underwear is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may also find that you need to make personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth, sway back, and or bum. Follow this free tutorial to adjust the tummy. NOTE – The shape is slightly different in this tutorial. In step 1.2 you do not cut off the bottom piece. You need to cut through the underwear at the seam under the bum.
- Rise – Rise listed in the finished measurement chart above is measured from the seam at the back of the gusset. To ensure you get the best fit, choose the rise option and add or remove rise from the front or back as needed when compared to your own measurements.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Use an inexpensive lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final underwear.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams.
- Adjust the width of the gusset to your personal preference.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final underwear.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric such as jersey, or cotton lycra (CL).
- Both 4-way stretch (stretches both horizontally and vertically), and 2-way stretch fabrics will work. For 2-way stretch fabrics, take care to place the pattern pieces as indicated for the grainline so that the stretch runs at right angles to the grainline.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your underwear maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Elastic OPTIONS ⅜ inch wide – approximately 2.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes:
- Picot Elastic
- OR Stretch Elastic
- OR Enclosed Elastic – use Knitted or Lingerie Elastic
- OR Fold Over Elastic
- OPTIONAL Decorative bow – 1x small lingerie satin bow
- Thread to match
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
Project OverviewCheeky Underwear
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Make your day a little more cheeky! This is a super simple sew with a great fit that can be lined or unlined. You can add optional power mesh to the lined version for added tummy support. There are three rises to choose from – low, mid, or high and four finishing options – picot, fold over or enclosed elastic, or bands. Mix and match the options to make yourself a complete set of beautiful and comfy underwear.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM 1 25.0 63.5 34.0 86.0 2 27.0 68.5 36.0 91.5 3 28.0 71.0 38.0 96.5 4 30.0 76.0 40.0 101.5 5 32.0 81.0 42.0 106.5 6 35.0 89.0 45.0 114.0 7 38.0 96.5 48.0 122.0 8 42.0 106.5 51.0 129.5 9 46.0 117.0 54.0 137.0 10 50.0 127.0 57.0 145.0 Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM 6C 36.0 94.1 48.0 121.9 7C 39.0 99.0 51.0 129.5 8C 43.0 109.2 54.0 137.2 9C 47.0 119.4 57.5 146.1 10C 51.0 129.5 61.0 154.9 11C 55.0 139.7 64.5 163.8 12C 59.0 149.9 68.0 172.7 13C 63.0 160.0 72.0 182.9 14C 67.0 170.2 76.0 193.0 15C 71.0 180.3 80.0 203.2 Finished Measurements (Inches)
Low waist Mid waist High Waist Hip Low rise Mid rise High rise Front Back Front Back Front Back 1 25.0 22.7 20.3 26.5 10.0 6.2 12.0 8.2 14.0 10.2 2 26.5 24.0 21.5 27.3 10.4 6.7 12.4 8.7 14.4 10.7 3 27.7 25.1 22.5 29.0 10.8 7.1 12.8 9.1 14.8 11.1 4 29.3 26.7 24.1 30.5 11.2 7.5 13.2 9.5 15.2 11.5 5 31.0 28.3 26.5 32.0 11.6 7.9 13.6 9.9 15.6 11.9 6 33.3 30.7 28.3 34.5 12.0 8.2 14.0 10.2 16.0 12.2 7 35.5 33.1 30.7 36.3 12.4 8.6 14.4 10.6 16.4 12.6 8 38.5 36.0 34.5 38.7 12.8 9.0 14.8 11.0 16.8 13.0 9 40.7 38.7 37.1 41.0 13.2 9.4 15.2 11.4 17.2 13.4 10 43.3 41.7 40.1 43.3 13.5 9.7 15.6 11.7 17.6 13.7 Low waist Mid waist High Waist Hip Low rise Mid rise High rise Front Back Front Back Front Back 6C 36.1 32.9 28.7 38.5 12.1 7.9 14.2 9.9 16.5 12.4 7C 38.5 35.5 31.3 40.9 12.5 8.4 14.6 10.3 16.9 12.9 8C 41.3 38.5 34.5 43.1 13.0 8.9 15.0 10.9 17.4 13.4 9C 43.7 40.7 37.7 45.7 13.2 9.4 15.3 11.4 17.6 13.9 10C 46.9 43.9 40.7 48.5 13.9 10.1 15.9 12.1 18.3 14.7 11C 50.5 47.1 43.9 51.3 14.3 10.8 16.4 12.8 18.8 15.3 12C 53.7 50.5 47.5 54.1 14.9 11.6 16.9 13.5 19.3 16.1 13C 56.3 53.9 50.7 57.5 15.4 12.2 17.4 14.2 19.8 16.7 14C 59.7 56.7 54.1 60.5 15.9 12.9 17.9 14.9 20.3 17.4 15C 62.9 59.7 57.1 63.7 16.5 13.6 18.5 15.6 20.9 18.1 Fitting NotesFitting Notes:
Materials and ToolsFabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide
(in YARDS)
Main OPTIONAL Lining OPTIONAL Power Mesh OPTIONAL Bands 1 – 8 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 9 – 10 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.25 Main OPTIONAL Lining OPTIONAL Power Mesh OPTIONAL Bands 6 – 8C 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 9 – 15C 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.25 * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
All rise options OPTIONAL bands 1-10 2-3, 5-6 4, 6-7 All rise options OPTIONAL bands 6C – 10C 2-7 8-10 11C – 13C 2-7 8-11 14C – 15C 2-8 8-11 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
All rise options OPTIONAL bands 1-10 2-3, 5-6 4, 6-7 All rise options OPTIONAL bands 6C 2-7 8-9 7C – 11C 2-7 8-10 12C – 15C 2-7 8-11 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
ANY Elastic OPTION ⅜ wide Leg (Cut 2)
Low Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1) Mid Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1) High Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1) Length Length Length Length 1 19.0 23.2 21.0 18.6 2 20.2 24.0 22.0 19.6 3 21.2 25.2 23.0 20.4 4 22.2 26.6 24.0 22.0 5 23.0 28.0 26.0 24.0 6 24.4 30.0 28.0 26.0 7 26.0 32.0 30.0 28.0 8 27.2 34.6 32.4 31.0 9 29.0 37.0 34.6 32.0 10 30.2 39.2 36.9 36.2 Band OPTION Leg (Cut 2) Low Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1) Mid Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1) High Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1) Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length 1 1.5 19.0 2.0 23.2 2.0 21.0 2.0 18.6 2 1.5 20.2 2.0 24.0 2.0 22.0 2.0 19.6 3 1.5 21.2 2.0 25.2 2.0 23.0 2.0 20.4 4 1.5 22.2 2.0 26.6 2.0 24.0 2.0 22.0 5 1.5 23.0 2.0 28.0 2.0 26.0 2.0 24.0 6 1.5 24.4 2.0 30.0 2.0 28.0 2.0 26.0 7 1.5 26.0 2.0 32.0 2.0 30.0 2.0 28.0 8 1.5 27.2 2.0 34.6 2.0 32.4 2.0 31.0 9 1.5 29.0 2.0 37.0 2.0 34.6 2.0 32.0 10 1.5 30.2 2.0 39.2 2.0 36.9 2.0 36.2 ANY Elastic OPTION ⅜ wide Leg (Cut 2)
Low Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1) Mid Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1) High Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1) Length Length Length Length 6C 20.0 29.2 28.0 25.0 7C 21.4 32.0 30.4 27.4 8C 23.0 34.4 33.0 30.6 9C 25.0 37.0 36.0 34.0 10C 27.0 40.0 38.6 37.0 11C 29.0 43.2 42.0 40.0 12C 31.0 46.4 45.0 44.0 13C 33.0 50.0 48.2 47.0 14C 35.0 53.0 51.4 50.0 15C 37.0 56.0 54.6 53.0 Band OPTION Leg (Cut 2) Low Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1) Mid Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1) High Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1) Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length 6C 1.5 20.0 2.0 29.2 2.0 28.0 2.0 25.0 7C 1.5 21.4 2.0 32.0 2.0 30.4 2.0 27.4 8C 1.5 23.0 2.0 34.4 2.0 33.0 2.0 30.6 9C 1.5 25.0 2.0 37.0 2.0 36.0 2.0 34.0 10C 1.5 27.0 2.0 40.0 2.0 38.6 2.0 37.0 11C 1.5 29.0 2.0 43.2 2.0 42.0 2.0 40.0 12C 1.5 31.0 2.0 46.4 2.0 45.0 2.0 44.0 13C 1.5 33.0 2.0 50.0 2.0 48.2 2.0 47.0 14C 1.5 35.0 2.0 53.0 2.0 51.4 2.0 50.0 15C 1.5 37.0 2.0 56.0 2.0 54.6 2.0 53.0 Before cutting out, you need to decide which option/s you are going to use. The available options are:
Option Description What pattern pieces you’ll need Cheeky Underwear (select one) Picot Elastic finish A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear with a gusset. Finished with picot elastic and an optional bow. Without power mesh or lining. ● Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold ● Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
● Gusset – Lining cut 1 on fold
Fold Over Elastic finish A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear with a gusset. Finished with fold over elastic and an optional bow. Without power mesh or lining. OR
A low-, mid- or high-Rise underwear without a gusset, with optional power mesh and lined. Finished with fold over elastic and an optional bow.
● Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold ● Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
● Gusset – Lining cut 1 on fold
OR
● Front:
● Back:
Bands option A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear with a gusset. Finished with bands at the legs and waist and an optional bow. Without power mesh or lining. OR
A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear without a gusset, with optional power mesh and lined. Finished with bands at the legs and waist and an optional bow.
● Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold ● Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
● Gusset – Lining cut 1 on fold
● Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold
● NOTE – Each rise has its own Waistband piece
● Leg Bands – Fabric cut 2 on fold
OR
● Front:
● Back:
o Fabric cut 1 on fold
o Lining cut 1 on fold
● Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold
● NOTE – Each rise has its own Waistband piece
● Leg Bands – Fabric cut 2 on fold
Enclosed elastic option A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear with a gusset. Finished with enclosed elastic and an optional bow. Without power mesh or lining. OR
A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear without a gusset, with optional power mesh and lined. Finished with enclosed elastic and an optional bow.
● Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold ● Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
● Gusset – Lining cut 1 on fold
OR
● Front:
● Back:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvedge edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- OPTIONAL POWER MESH – Baste Power Mesh Front to the wrong side of the Main Front.
- GUSSET OPTION – OPTIONAL: Finish the front raw edge of Gusset. Layer Gusset Lining, Main Back and Main Front: Gusset Lining right side up, Main Back right side up, Main Front piece wrong side up. Match bottom edges. Stitch. Open the Underwear with the Gusset laid flat against Main Front, wrong sides together. Press. Baste Gusset to Front at the side seams. OPTIONAL: Stitch front of Gusset to Main Front. Skip to step 3.
- LINED OPTION – Lay Main Back right side facing up. Place Main Front on top right side facing down, matching bottom edges. Stitch. Open Underwear flat, right sides facing up. Press. Repeat with Front and Back Lining.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch Front to the Back at side seams, right sides together. Press seams to back. Repeat for lining if required.
- LINED OPTION: ATTACHING TO MAIN – Place Main Underwear right side facing out. Take Underwear Lining, wrong side facing out, and slide it inside Main. Match side seams and baste together at waist. Match raw edges of leg openings and baste Main and Lining together.
- PICOT ELASTIC OPTION – Overlap the leg elastic ½ inch and stitch. Place elastic on right side of leg opening, do not stretch along Gusset and Front, stretch slightly along the back. Stitch. Turn to wrong side of Underwear, pin and topstitch. Repeat. Overlap waist elastic ½ inch and stitch. Quarter the elastic and the top edge of the Underwear. With right side together, pin elastic matching the quarter points, stretching elastic slightly. Baste, then turn it to wrong side, pin and stitch. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
- FOLD OVER ELASTIC OPTION – Overlap the waist fold over elastic ½ inch and stitch. Mark quarter points of fold over elastic and waist. On wrong side of Underwear, match quarter points. Pin raw edge of Underwear to the middle of fold over elastic. Stretch elastic slightly between quarter points and stitch. Turn top edge over to right side and stitch. Repeat for leg elastic. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
- BANDS OPTION – Fold Waistband in half, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch and press. Fold Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Mark quarter points of Waistband and Underwear. Lay Underwear right sides facing up. Place Waistband over waist edge, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points, and Waistband seam to the center back. Stitch. Flip Waistband up. Press seam. Repeat on both leg openings. OPTIONAL: From the right side, topstitch around the waist, and both legs with a twin needle, coverstitch or stretch stitch. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front
- ENCLOSED ELASTIC OPTION – Place elastic onto inside of leg opening, matching the elastic to edge. Starting at the Front, without stretching the elastic, pin it between the side seam and the Front and Back seam. Pin the elastic along the Back, stretching it slightly to match. Stitch. Fold the leg opening over to inside. Topstitch. Repeat for other leg. Overlap ends of waist elastic ½ inch and stitch. Mark quarter points of elastic and waist. Place elastic inside Underwear at waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points and raw edge of the elastic to the stitched waist edge. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin. Topstitch. Fold waist opening over to inside and topstitch. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch – Topstitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch – Top stitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm
0.0Note – Photos throughout have a slightly different shape than the Cheeky Underwear. All the steps are the same and the different shape does not impact construction.
0.1OPTIONAL Power Mesh
You can add OPTIONAL Power Mesh to any of the options except for the Picot Elastic finish. We do not recommend adding it to this option as you will need to line it, and this will be too heavy for the Picot Elastic. If you are adding OPTIONAL Power Mesh to the Front, you will need to follow the Lined OPTION.
Adding power mesh will give added support to the Front.
Lay the Main Front wrong side facing up. Place the Front Power Mesh on top. Pin all sides.
Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
1 . Gusset OPTION1.0If you are lining your underwear skip to step 2. The gusset cannot be added to the lined version. It can be added to all rise and elastic and band finish options.
1.1OPTIONAL: Serge or stitch the front raw edge of the Gusset.
NOTE – If you are serging do not remove any seam allowance.
NOTE – The Front edge is the narrower of the two edges.
1.2Layer the Gusset Lining, Main Back and Main Front in the following order: Gusset Lining right side up, Main Back right side up, Main Front piece wrong side up. Match the bottom edges. Pin all three layers together.
NOTE – The Back is now sandwiched between the Gusset and the Front.
1.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.4Open the Underwear with the Gusset laid flat against the Main Front, wrong sides together. Press the seam allowance flat.
1.5Pin the Gusset to the Front at the side seams.
1.6Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.7OPTIONAL: Stitch the front of the Gusset to the Main Front using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Skip to step 3.
2 . Lined OPTION2.0If you have added the Gusset, skip to step 3. Any of the rise and elastic or band options can be lined, except for the Picot Elastic option. We do not recommend lining this option as it will be too heavy for the Picot Elastic – skip to step 3 for this option.
2.1Lay the Main Back right side facing up. Place the Main Front on top right side facing down, matching the bottom edges. Pin.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.3Open the Underwear flat, right sides facing up. Press the seam allowance flat.
2.4Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 with the Front and Back Lining.
3 . Side Seams3.0This step is the same for all options.
3.1Place the Main Front and Main Back right sides together, at the side seam. Pin.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.3Press the seam allowance towards the Back piece.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the other side seam.
If you are lining your Underwear follow step 3.5. If you are making an unlined version skip to step 5 for Picot Elastic, step 6 for Fold Over Elastic, step 7 for Bands or step 8 for Enclosed Elastic.
3.5LINING OPTION: Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the Front and Back Lining side seams.
4 . Lined OPTION: Attaching to Main4.0If you are sewing an unlined version skip to step 5 for the Picot Elastic option, or step 6 for the Fold Over Elastic option, or step 7 for the Bands option or step 8 for the Enclosed Elastic option.
4.1Place the Main Underwear right side facing out. Take the Underwear Lining, wrong side facing out, and slide it inside the Main. Match up the side seams and pin together along the waist.
TIP – Mark the center of the Main and the Lining and match these when pinning.
4.2SERGER OPTION: Serge together without removing any seam allowance.
REGULAR MACHINE OPTION: Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you are sewing the enclosed elastic option, serge or zigzag stitch the waist raw edges of the Main and Lining.
4.3Match the raw edges of the leg openings and pin the Main and Lining together.
4.4Repeat step 4.2 to stitch the leg openings.
NOTE – This will now be treated as one piece.
5 . Picot Elastic OPTION5.0If you aren’t finishing the Underwear with Picot Elastic, skip to step 6 for the Fold Over Elastic option, step 7 for the Bands option, or step 8 for the Enclosed Elastic option.
5.1Overlap the short ends of the leg elastic by ½ inch to form a circle and pin.
TIP – Stretch and relax the elastic a couple times before pinning.
5.2Stitch together using a zig zag stitch.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the leg of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably. The type of elastic you use may mean you need to adjust the lengths. Make adjustments as needed.
5.3With the right sides together, pin the picot elastic to the raw edge of the leg opening, starting at the seam between the Gusset and the Back. Without stretching the elastic, continue pinning up the Gusset, along the Front until you reach the side seam. Do not stretch along the Front of the Underwear.
Keep pinning the elastic along the Back, stretching it slightly to match.
NOTE – The plain, straight edge of the elastic will be matched up with the raw edge of the Underwear.
5.4Stitch the elastic to the Underwear.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
5.5Turn the elastic toward the wrong side of the Underwear and pin.
TIP – If you are working with thicker fabric, you can trim the fabric along the seam before turning the elastic. This will help reduce to bulk.
5.6Topstitch the leg opening.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
5.7Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 for the other leg opening.
5.8Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.2 to stitch the waistband elastic into a circle.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the waist of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably.
5.9Find and mark the quarter points of the elastic.
5.10Find and mark the quarter points of the waist of the Underwear.
5.11Place the elastic over the waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin.
NOTE – The straight edge of the elastic matches the raw edge of the Underwear.
5.12Repeat steps 5.4 to 5.6 to attach the elastic to the waist.
5.13OPTIONAL – Add a small ribbon bow to the center front waistband of the Underwear. The bow can be attached with fabric glue or by hand stitching it.
Your Underwear is now finished!
6 . Fold Over Elastic OPTION6.0If you aren’t finishing the Underwear with Fold Over Elastic skip to step 7 for the Bands option, or step 8 for the Enclosed Elastic option.
This method can be used to attach Stretch Lace. This is a great option for the waist but is not recommended for the legs.
NOTE – Do not use a serger for these steps. Follow below on a regular sewing machine.
6.1Overlap the short ends of the waist fold over elastic ½ inch to form a circle and pin.
TIP – Stretch and relax the elastic a couple times before pinning.
6.2Stitch together using a zig zag stitch.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the waist of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably. The type of elastic you use may mean you need to adjust the lengths. Make adjustments as needed.
6.3Mark the quarter points of the fold over elastic, and the waist of the Underwear.
6.4On the wrong side of the Underwear, match the quarter points of the fold over elastic to the quarter points of the Underwear. Pin the raw edge of the Underwear to the center line on the bottom half of the wrong side of the fold over elastic. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin.
NOTE – Fold over elastic has a central line which makes it easier to fold it in half.
If using Stretch Lace, match quarter points on the RIGHT side of the Underwear, rather than the wrong.
6.5Using a zig zag stitch, stitch the elastic to the waist.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
If using Stretch Lace, your waistband is attached. Stop here and choose your leg finishing option now.
6.6Turn the top edge above the central line of the fold over elastic, over to the right side of the Underwear. Pin.
6.7Stitch along the bottom edge of the fold over elastic with zig zag stitches.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
TIP – If the elastic appears to be stretched out, gently press the Underwear using steam. This will help the elastic return back to its original shape.
6.8Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 to attach the elastic to both leg openings.
OPTIONAL – Add a small ribbon bow to the center front waistband of the Underwear. The bow can be attached with fabric glue or by hand stitching it.
Your Underwear is now finished!
7 . Bands OPTION7.0If you aren’t finishing the Underwear with Bands, skip to step 8 for the Enclosed Elastic option.
7.1Fold the Waistband in half, right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open if you are using a stretch stitch. Press the seam allowance to the side if you have serged.
TIP – Using a stretch stitch and pressing the seam open will allow the Waistband to lay flat.
7.3Fold the Waistband in half, length wise, wrong sides together. Mark the quarter points of the raw edge of the Waistband and Underwear waist.
7.4Lay the Underwear right sides facing up. Place the Waistband over the waist edge, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points, and the Waistband seam to the center back. Pin.
7.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Only stretch the Waistband, not the Underwear.
7.6Flip the Waistband up. Press the seam allowance down, towards the Underwear.
7.7Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.6 with the Leg Bands on both leg openings, matching the seams of the Leg Bands to the side seams of the Underwear.
7.8OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the waist and legs with a twin needle, coverstitch or stretch stitch. This will help keep seam allowances in place and stop them from flipping out.
NOTE – If using a zig zag stitch as the stretch stitch, a zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
OPTIONAL – Add a small ribbon bow to the center front waistband of the Underwear. The bow can be attached with fabric glue or by hand stitching it.
Your Underwear is now finished!
8 . Enclosed Elastic OPTION8.1Place the elastic onto the right side of the Lining leg opening if lined or wrong side of leg opening if unlined, matching the elastic to the stitched edge. Starting at the Front, without stretching the elastic, pin it between the side seam and the Front and Back seam.
Pin the elastic along the Back, stretching it slightly to match. Overlap the elastic by ½ inch.
TIP – Stretch and relax the elastic a couple times before pinning.
8.2Stitch the elastic to the Underwear with a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
8.3Fold the leg opening over to the inside the width of the elastic. Pin.
TIP – If you are working with thicker fabric, you can trim the fabric along the seam before turning the elastic. This will help reduce to bulk.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
8.4Topstitch along the edge of the elastic.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
8.5Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.4 for the other leg opening.
8.6Overlap the short ends of the waist elastic ½ inch to form a circle and pin.
8.7Stitch together using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the waist of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably. The type of elastic you use may mean you need to adjust the lengths. Make adjustments as needed.
8.8Mark the quarter points of the elastic and the waist edge of the Underwear.
8.9Place the elastic inside the Underwear at the waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points and the raw edge of the elastic to the stitched waist edge. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin.
8.10Stitch the elastic to the Underwear with a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
8.11Fold the waist opening over to the inside the width of the elastic. Pin.
8.12Topstitch along the edge of the elastic.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
OPTIONAL – Add a small ribbon bow to the center front waistband of the Underwear. The bow can be attached with fabric glue or by hand stitching it.
Your Underwear is now finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Cheeky Underwear is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
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Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewCheeky Underwear
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Make your day a little more cheeky! This is a super simple sew with a great fit that can be lined or unlined. You can add optional power mesh to the lined version for added tummy support. There are three rises to choose from – low, mid, or high and four finishing options – picot, fold over or enclosed elastic, or bands. Mix and match the options to make yourself a complete set of beautiful and comfy underwear.
SizingSize Range
Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM 1 25.0 63.5 34.0 86.0 2 27.0 68.5 36.0 91.5 3 28.0 71.0 38.0 96.5 4 30.0 76.0 40.0 101.5 5 32.0 81.0 42.0 106.5 6 35.0 89.0 45.0 114.0 7 38.0 96.5 48.0 122.0 8 42.0 106.5 51.0 129.5 9 46.0 117.0 54.0 137.0 10 50.0 127.0 57.0 145.0 Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM 6C 36.0 94.1 48.0 121.9 7C 39.0 99.0 51.0 129.5 8C 43.0 109.2 54.0 137.2 9C 47.0 119.4 57.5 146.1 10C 51.0 129.5 61.0 154.9 11C 55.0 139.7 64.5 163.8 12C 59.0 149.9 68.0 172.7 13C 63.0 160.0 72.0 182.9 14C 67.0 170.2 76.0 193.0 15C 71.0 180.3 80.0 203.2 Finished Measurements (Inches)
Low waist Mid waist High Waist Hip Low rise Mid rise High rise Front Back Front Back Front Back 1 25.0 22.7 20.3 26.5 10.0 6.2 12.0 8.2 14.0 10.2 2 26.5 24.0 21.5 27.3 10.4 6.7 12.4 8.7 14.4 10.7 3 27.7 25.1 22.5 29.0 10.8 7.1 12.8 9.1 14.8 11.1 4 29.3 26.7 24.1 30.5 11.2 7.5 13.2 9.5 15.2 11.5 5 31.0 28.3 26.5 32.0 11.6 7.9 13.6 9.9 15.6 11.9 6 33.3 30.7 28.3 34.5 12.0 8.2 14.0 10.2 16.0 12.2 7 35.5 33.1 30.7 36.3 12.4 8.6 14.4 10.6 16.4 12.6 8 38.5 36.0 34.5 38.7 12.8 9.0 14.8 11.0 16.8 13.0 9 40.7 38.7 37.1 41.0 13.2 9.4 15.2 11.4 17.2 13.4 10 43.3 41.7 40.1 43.3 13.5 9.7 15.6 11.7 17.6 13.7 Low waist Mid waist High Waist Hip Low rise Mid rise High rise Front Back Front Back Front Back 6C 36.1 32.9 28.7 38.5 12.1 7.9 14.2 9.9 16.5 12.4 7C 38.5 35.5 31.3 40.9 12.5 8.4 14.6 10.3 16.9 12.9 8C 41.3 38.5 34.5 43.1 13.0 8.9 15.0 10.9 17.4 13.4 9C 43.7 40.7 37.7 45.7 13.2 9.4 15.3 11.4 17.6 13.9 10C 46.9 43.9 40.7 48.5 13.9 10.1 15.9 12.1 18.3 14.7 11C 50.5 47.1 43.9 51.3 14.3 10.8 16.4 12.8 18.8 15.3 12C 53.7 50.5 47.5 54.1 14.9 11.6 16.9 13.5 19.3 16.1 13C 56.3 53.9 50.7 57.5 15.4 12.2 17.4 14.2 19.8 16.7 14C 59.7 56.7 54.1 60.5 15.9 12.9 17.9 14.9 20.3 17.4 15C 62.9 59.7 57.1 63.7 16.5 13.6 18.5 15.6 20.9 18.1 Materials and Tools- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric such as jersey, or cotton lycra (CL).
- Both 4-way stretch (stretches both horizontally and vertically), and 2-way stretch fabrics will work. For 2-way stretch fabrics, take care to place the pattern pieces as indicated for the grainline so that the stretch runs at right angles to the grainline.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your underwear maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide
(in YARDS)
Main OPTIONAL Lining OPTIONAL Power Mesh OPTIONAL Bands 1 – 8 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 9 – 10 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.25 Main OPTIONAL Lining OPTIONAL Power Mesh OPTIONAL Bands 6 – 8C 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 9 – 15C 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.25 * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
- Elastic OPTIONS ⅜ inch wide – approximately 2.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes:
- Picot Elastic
- OR Stretch Elastic
- OR Enclosed Elastic – use Knitted or Lingerie Elastic
- OR Fold Over Elastic
- OPTIONAL Decorative bow – 1x small lingerie satin bow
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.