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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children's Amy Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This quick and easy cross-over dress pattern produces a beautiful dress that is fully reversible and edged with bias binding. As the back crosses over, the dress should be worn over bottoms.
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- +Preparation
- Measure, measure, measure – Please measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished garment measurements. Sizes vary country to country and the sizing may match what you’re expecting, or it may not. To ensure you get the best fit, please use the size your model falls into on our size chart, rather than the size they’ve worn in ready to wear clothing.
- Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice/old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments.
- Picking your size – When picking the size, if your model falls between sizes, go for the size that has the correct chest measurement. That way the underarms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out, or into the correct waist size and adjust for height.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 1 to 1 ½ inch wide bias binding/tape – approximately 5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. You can either buy pre-made bias binding from a store, or you can make your own from the same fabric as your tunic. You can either buy single fold bias binding (which will measure 1 or 1 ½ inches across, and you’ll then iron it in half at step 4.1), or you can buy it already folded in half which is called “double fold” (which would only measure 1 or 1 ½ inches across if you unfolded it again). If you’d like to make your own bias binding/tape, you can download my free tutorial here.
- Thread to match.
- Front – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pairs), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pairs)
Project OverviewAmy
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This quick and easy cross-over dress pattern produces a beautiful dress that is fully reversible and edged with bias binding. As the back crosses over, the dress should be worn over bottoms.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Length
0 – 3 mos
25.0
13.0
3 – 6 mos
25.0
14.0
6 – 12 mos
26.0
15.3
12 – 18 mos
27.0
16.7
18 – 24 mos
28.0
18.1
2 – 3 yrs
27.0
17.3
3 – 4 yrs
28.0
19.6
5 – 6 yrs
29.0
23.0
7 – 8 yrs
31.0
24.5
9 – 10 yrs
32.0
27.1
11 – 12 yrs
34.0
28.7
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsYou can use light-weight woven fabrics such as 100% cotton, woven cotton, or cotton blend for both the main fabric and the lining.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
0 – 12 mos
0.50
0.50
12 – 24 mos
0.75
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
1.00
1.00
3 – 12 yrs
1.75
1.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, cutting mat, tape measure.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pattern pieces 0 – 24 mos 2-4, 8-10 2 – 3 yrs 5-7, 10-13 3 – 4 yrs 5-7, 10-15 5 – 12 yrs 5-7, 10-17 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Pattern pieces 0 – 3 mos 2-3, 9-10 3 – 6 mos 2-3, 9-11 6 – 18 mos 5-7, 11-14 5 – 8 yrs 5-8, 11-14 9 – 12 yrs 5-8, 11-15 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- SIDE SEAMS – With right sides together, place the two Main Back pieces onto the Main Front piece. Stitch tunic side seams with ¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat for Lining side seams.
- SHOULDER SEAMS – Lie the tunic flat so it is right side up. Cross the back piece that is on the right as you look down at it over, so it meets the shoulder, right sides to right sides. Pin and stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press the seam open and turn the tunic right side out. Lay the lining flat with the right side up this time. Cross the back piece that is on the left as you look at it over to the shoulder. This is the opposite of what you just did. Pin and stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Keeping the tunic & lining the same way out as you just had them, slip the lining inside the tunic. They should now be wrong side to wrong side. Pin the tunic & lining together at the side seams on the hemline and under the arms. Cross the back piece which is still loose over to meet the shoulder. Peel back the tunic layer so the lining is exposed. Pin the lining shoulder together and stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press the seam open. Be careful not to catch the tunic pieces when you stitch. These should still be flapping open. Fold the lining shoulder seam down so it is out of the way. Bring the back piece of the tunic up to meet the shoulder. The shoulder of the lining should be out of the way, tucked down inside the tunic. Turn the shoulder seam of the tunic inside out, pin and stitch ¼ inch from the edge. It’s a little awkward because it’s all turned under but if you pin it and check you’ve got it right before you stitch it’s helpful. Remember to keep the lining shoulder out of the way.
- PREPARE FOR BIAS – Match up the shoulder & side seams. Pin then stitch all the way around the tunic close to the edge. Start anywhere. It’s a circle so you’ll eventually meet up with where you started.
- ADD THE BIAS BINDING – Fold your bias binding over the raw edges all the way around the tunic. Pin and then stitch close to the edge. Your tunic should now be fully encased with bias binding.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet¼ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch
Sewing –
1 . Side SeamsSeam Allowance
¼ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch
1.1Place one Main Back piece face down onto the Main Front (e.g. right sides together). Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press seam open.
TIP – When you pin the side seams, pin under the armhole first and work downward towards the hem. Depending on how accurately you’ve cut your fabric, you might find the hems don’t match up. Don’t worry, you can trim these, so they are smooth before you attach the bias binding. To have it fit properly, matching the armhole edge is more important.
1.2Place the other Main Back piece face down onto the Main Front. Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press seam open.
1.3Place one Back Lining piece face down onto the Front Lining (e.g. right sides together). Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press seam open.
1.4Place the other Back Lining piece face down onto the Front Lining. Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press seam open.
2 . Shoulders Seams2.1Lie the Main tunic flat so it is right side up. Cross the right Main Back piece to the left shoulder. Fabric should be right sides to right sides. Pin and stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
2.2Press the seam open and turn the tunic right side out.
2.3Lay the tunic Lining flat with the right side up this time. Cross the left Back Lining piece to the right shoulder.
This is the opposite of what you just did in step 2.1 Pin and stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
2.4Keep the Main and Lining the same way out as you just had them. Slip the Lining inside the Main. They should now be wrong side to wrong side. Pin the tunic & lining together at the side seams on the hemline. and under the arms.
You don’t need to pin the rest of the tunic just yet. This is just to hold the Main and Lining together while you do the next steps.
Don’t worry about the raw edges around the hem & necklines, we will encase them in bias binding soon.
2.5Cross the right Back piece (which is still loose) over to meet the left shoulder.
2.6Peel back the tunic layer so the lining is exposed. Pin the lining shoulder together and stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press the seam open.
Be careful not to catch the tunic pieces when you stitch. These should still be flapping open.
2.7We are now going to stitch the tunic shoulder seam together. You will need to fold the lining shoulder seam down, so it is out of the way.
2.8Once you’ve folded the lining down out of the way as in step 2.7, bring the back piece of the tunic up to meet the shoulder. The shoulder of the lining should be out of the way, tucked down inside the tunic.
2.9Turn the shoulder seam of the tunic inside out, pin and stitch ¼ inch from the edge. It’s a little awkward because it’s all turned under but if you pin it and check you’ve got it right before you stitch it’s helpful. Remember to keep the lining shoulder out of the way.
Your tunic should now look like this photo. To finish it we just need to add the bias binding that covers the raw edges.
3 . Prepare for Bias3.1Pin all the way around the edges. Depending on your fabric you will need to smooth the tunic out to do this, so the lining and tunic match up properly. I find it much easier to pin in several places around the hemline first, then fill in the gaps in between (e.g. center front, center back and both of the side seams).
3.2Stitch all the way around the tunic close to the edge. Start anywhere. It’s a circle so you’ll eventually meet up with where you started.
TIP – If you are confused on this step, start somewhere on the hemline, and put the hemline into your machine and just start stitching. It’s a circle so eventually you’ll meet up with where you started. You won’t need to cross any other bits of fabric; it will just end up a big (albeit complicated looking!) circle. It will work, just try it.
Don’t worry about the raw edges sticking out, we will cover these with the bias binding in the next step.
4 . Add the Bias Binding4.1If your bias binding isn’t already folded in half, then fold it in half and iron.
If it hasn’t been folded in half it will look like the photo on the left above when it comes out of the packet or off the roll. When it’s folded in half it will look like the photo on the right.
4.2Trim around your hemline carefully so that the raw edges are neat and even.
Slip the bias binding over the hemline so the fold sits on the edge and the binding folds over both sides of the hemline. The raw edges should be encased inside the bias binding. It doesn’t matter where you start but I always like to start and end near a side seam, so the join is least likely to be noticed.
4.3When you get back near the beginning, trim the binding so it overlaps the beginning by approximately 1 inch.
4.4Trim the corners of the loose end of the bias binding onto an angle.
4.5Fold the end under approximately ½ an inch and pin down onto the beginning of the bias binding. The raw edges should now all be hidden and the bias binding forming a circle all the way around the tunic.
Your Amy tunic is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Amy is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpamydress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewAmy
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This quick and easy cross-over dress pattern produces a beautiful dress that is fully reversible and edged with bias binding. As the back crosses over, the dress should be worn over bottoms.
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Length
0 – 3 mos
25.0
13.0
3 – 6 mos
25.0
14.0
6 – 12 mos
26.0
15.3
12 – 18 mos
27.0
16.7
18 – 24 mos
28.0
18.1
2 – 3 yrs
27.0
17.3
3 – 4 yrs
28.0
19.6
5 – 6 yrs
29.0
23.0
7 – 8 yrs
31.0
24.5
9 – 10 yrs
32.0
27.1
11 – 12 yrs
34.0
28.7
Materials and ToolsYou can use light-weight woven fabrics such as 100% cotton, woven cotton, or cotton blend for both the main fabric and the lining.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
0 – 12 mos
0.50
0.50
12 – 24 mos
0.75
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
1.00
1.00
3 – 12 yrs
1.75
1.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1 to 1 ½ inch wide bias binding/tape – approximately 5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. You can either buy pre-made bias binding from a store, or you can make your own from the same fabric as your tunic. You can either buy single fold bias binding (which will measure 1 or 1 ½ inches across, and you’ll then iron it in half at step 4.1), or you can buy it already folded in half which is called “double fold” (which would only measure 1 or 1 ½ inches across if you unfolded it again). If you’d like to make your own bias binding/tape, you can download my free tutorial here.
- Thread to match.
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, cutting mat, tape measure.