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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children’s Back Tie Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Introducing your new favorite sundress sewing pattern: The Back Tie Dress. Features a V-neck bodice, four-panel skirt, three length options, and an open back design.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct bust measurement. That way the bust and over bust are likely to fit well. The finished bust measurement shows a negative ease due to the gap at the center back where the straps tie together. The shape of the dress is forgiving over the hips so no need to grade at the hips if you have a different hip size.
- Height adjustment – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement. You will need to adjust the Bodice and Skirt pieces for height.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this dress:
- Use an inexpensive woven or knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out the bodice and mid-thigh length skirt pieces. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. If you need to distribute the grade needed at the front and back, grade at the seams between the Side Skirt and the Center Back and Center Front Skirts. You can also adjust the elastic for a better fit.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- ⅜ inch / 10mm wide Elastic – approximately half a yard is sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Ties – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Center Front Skirt – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Side Skirt – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Back Skirt – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewDifficulty Level = Beginner
The Back Tie Dress has a shaped bodice with a V-neck. The ties are attached to the bodice and tied through the channel at the back. There are four skirt panels which drape from the underbust over the waist and hip. The center back waist is elasticated and curved, which sits in the small of the lower back, making it easy to slip over your head. With three length options, mid-thigh, mid-calf and maxi, this makes for a lovely summery dress.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bust
Underbust
Bodice length apex to underbust
Hip
12 – 18 mos
17.0
14.5
4.3
19.0
18 – 24 mos
18.0
15.5
4.6
21.0
2 – 3 yrs
20.0
17.5
5.0
23.0
3 – 4 yrs
21.0
18.5
5.3
25.0
5 – 6 yrs
23.0
20.5
6.0
27.0
7 – 8 yrs
25.0
22.5
6.4
29.0
9 – 10 yrs
26.0
23.5
7.0
31.0
11 – 12 yrs
28.0
25.5
7.5
33.0
Mid-thigh
Hem circumference
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
12 – 18 mos
26.6
31.7
29.3
23.6
34.7
31.7
18 – 24 mos
26.7
32.0
29.5
23.7
35.0
32.0
2 – 3 yrs
27.0
32.2
29.7
24.0
35.2
32.2
3 – 4 yrs
27.0
32.2
30.0
24.0
35.2
32.2
5 – 6 yrs
27.0
32.4
30.0
24.0
35.4
32.4
7 – 8 yrs
27.1
32.6
30.3
24.1
35.6
32.6
9 – 10 yrs
27.7
33.6
31.3
24.7
36.6
33.6
11 – 12 yrs
28.0
34.0
31.5
26.0
37.0
34.0
Fitting NotesThe bodice is shaped. The skirt is made from four panels without seams at the side. It is slightly fitted under the bust with lots of drape drafted into the skirt panels to flow over the waist and hips. The Ties are attached at the front apex, tying at the back via channels.
Materials and ToolsYou can use any mid to light-weight woven or a knit fabric for this dress. You can use the same fabric for your main and lining.
Fabric –
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main and lining same fabric:
Bodice and skirtSkirt main fabric
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
12 – 18 mos
0.5
0.75
1.5
0.25
0.75
1.25
18 – 24 mos
0.5
1.0
1.5
0.25
0.75
1.5
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
1.0
1.75
0.5
1.0
1.5
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
1.25
2.0
0.5
1.25
2.0
5 – 6 yrs
1.0
1.75
2.25
0.75
1.5
2.25
7 – 8 yrs
1.0
2.0
2.5
1.0
1.5
2.5
9 – 10 yrs
1.0
2.0
3.0
1.0
1.75
3.0
11 – 12 yrs
1.0
2.25
4.0
1.0
2.0
3.5
Bodice main and lining
separate fabricBodice main and lining
same fabricMain
Lining
12 – 18 mos
0.25
0.25
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.25
0.25
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.25
0.25
0.25
3 – 4 yrs
0.25
0.25
0.5
5 – 6 yrs
0.25
0.25
0.5
7 – 8 yrs
0.5
0.5
0.5
9 – 10 yrs
0.5
0.5
0.5
11 – 12 yrs
0.5
0.5
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Mid-thigh Mid-calf Maxi 12 – 18 mos 2, 4-5, 13-13, 19-21, 27-28 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-21, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 18-22, 27-28 18 – 24 mos 2, 4-5, 10, 12-13, 19-21, 27-28 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-21, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 18-22, 27-28 2 – 3 yrs 2, 4-6, 10, 12-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 18-23, 27-28 3 – 4 yrs 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-8, 10-16, 18-23, 27-28 5 – 6 yrs 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 18-23, 27-28 2-8, 10-16, 18-24, 26-28 7 – 8 yrs 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 18-23, 27-28 2-24, 26-28 9 – 10 yrs 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-8, 10-16, 18-23, 27-28 2-24, 26-28 11 – 12 yrs 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-8, 10-16, 18-24, 27-28 2-28 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Mid-thigh Mid-calf Maxi 12 – 18 mos 2, 4-5, 12-13, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 19-22, 27-28 18 – 24 mos 2, 4-5, 10, 12-13, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-6, 10, 12-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 18-22, 27-28 2 – 3 yrs 2, 4-6, 10, 12-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 18-23, 27-28 3 – 4 yrs 2, 4-6, 10, 12-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-8, 10-16, 18-23, 27-28 5 – 6 yrs 2, 4-6, 10, 12-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-7, 10-15, 18-23, 27-28 2-8, 10-16, 18-24, 27-28 7 – 8 yrs 2, 4-6, 10, 12-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-8, 10-16, 18-23, 27-28 2-24, 26-28 9 – 10 yrs 2, 4-6, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2, 4-8, 10-16, 18-23, 27-28 2-28 11 – 12 yrs 2, 4-7, 10-14, 19-22, 27-28 2-8, 10-16, 18-24, 27-28 2-28 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts (inches) – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:
Tie (cut 2)
Back elastic (cut 1)
Length
Width
Length
Width
12 – 18 mos
12.0
2.0
4.0
0.375
18 – 24 mos
12.0
2.0
4.3
0.375
2 – 3 yrs
12.0
2.0
4.5
0.375
3 – 4 yrs
12.0
2.0
4.6
0.375
5 – 6 yrs
12.0
2.0
5.0
0.375
7 – 8 yrs
12.0
2.0
5.2
0.375
9 – 10 yrs
12.0
2.0
5.5
0.375
11 – 12 yrs
12.0
2.0
5.7
0.375
Cutting Checklist:NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
- + Instructions
- Pattern Markings – Transfer pattern markings.
- Staystitching – WOVEN: Staystich all Skirt pieces.
- Ties – Fold the Tie in half, right sides together. Stitch one short edge and the long edge. Clip and trim. Turn and press. Repeat steps for the second Tie.
- Bodice – Lay the Main Bodice right sides facing up. Place the Tie at the center of the apex, right sides together. Baste. Repeat to attach second Tie. Place the Bodice Lining onto the Main Bodice, right sides together. Stitch around all edges, except bottom (waist) edge. Trim and clip. Snip into the center V. Turn right side out and press. Fold one side over by ½ inch toward the Lining side at the center back. Press. Edgestitch. Repeat for the second center back seam.
- Skirt – Fold the top edge of the Center Back Skirt ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. Fold over a further ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch close to the folded edge. Thread elastic into the channel, stitching each end in place. Stitch each Side Skirt to either side of the Center Front Skirt using a French seam. Repeat to attach the Center Back Skirt.
- Waist Seam – Separate the Main and Lining of the Bodice. Place the Main Bodice onto the Skirt, right sides together. Stitch. Turning the Bodice wrong side out, slide the Skirt in between the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining. Match the raw waist edge of the Bodice Lining with the Skirt and Main Bodice seam. Stitch, leaving a 2 – 4 inch gap. Gently pull the Skirt through the gap. Press the seam line. Close the gap in the waist seam using a slipstitch.
- Hem – WOVEN: Fold the hem ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat. Topstitch. KNIT: Fold the hem ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch.
- Finish – Thread one Tie through each back channel. Adjust the length of the shoulder strap as needed. Tie in a bow beneath the channels.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and labels to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Staystitching
If you are using a woven fabric you will need to staystitch. If you are using a knit fabric, skip to step1.
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, and wearing the garment. If you don’t staystitch, the dress is likely to stretch during construction and then the bodice and skirt won’t fit properly when you try to attach it. Directional stay stitching (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting while we sew the rest of the garment. We will staystitch using a regular length straight stitch and stay inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch the Center Front Skirt in the directions of the arrow, starting at the center and stitching out.
Repeat to staystitch the Side Skirts and Center Back Skirt.
1 . Ties1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Tie in half, right sides together. Pin. Serge one short edge and the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn right side out and press. Repeat for the second Tie. Then skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
1.1Fold the Tie in half, right sides together. Pin.
1.2Stitch one short edge and the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.3Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance.
1.4Turn right side out and press.
1.5Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 for the second Tie.
2 . Bodice2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 2.1 to 2.4. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn right side out and press. Follow steps 2.8 to 2.10.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
2.1Lay the Main Bodice right sides facing up. Place the Tie at the center of the apex, right sides together. Pin.
2.2Baste using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2.3Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 to attach the second Tie to the other apex.
2.4Place the Bodice Lining onto the Main Bodice, right sides together, sandwiching the Ties in between the layers. Pin around all edges, except the bottom (waist) edge.
2.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the bottom edge open.
TIP – To give the Ties extra support, stitch over them two or three times.
2.6Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners and the curves.
Snip into the center V, up to but not through the stitching.
2.7Turn the Bodice right side out. Press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
TIP – Under stitching will help everything to lay nicer.
2.8Fold one side over by ½ inch toward the Lining side at the center back. Press. Pin.
2.9Edgestitch close to the edge, creating a channel for the Tie.
2.10Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.9 for the second center back seam.
3 . Skirt3.0This step is the same for all Skirt lengths.
NOTE – You may notice that the Skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the Skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams.
That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the Skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.
You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your Skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the Skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 3.1 to 3.6. Place the Center Front Skirt onto a Side Skirt, right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Side Skirt. Repeat to attach the second Side Skirt to the Center Front Skirt. Repeat to attach the other sides of the Side Skirts to the Center Back Skirt, attaching the Center Back Skirt ½ inch down from the waist edge and pressing seams towards the Side Skirt. Then skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will be stitching the Skirt side seams together using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of your dress. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
3.1Fold the top edge of the Center Back Skirt ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
3.2Fold again by ½ inch. Press. Pin.
3.3Topstitch close to the folded edge. This will create a channel for the elastic.
3.4Thread the elastic into the channel, matching the edge of the elastic to the side seam on one side. Stitch one end in place to secure it.
TIP – To give the elastic extra support, stitch over it a few times.
3.5Continue to thread the elastic through. Pin at the opposite side seam.
3.6Stitch to secure.
3.7Place the Center Front Skirt onto a Side Skirt, wrong sides together (right sides facing out). Pin.
NOTE – Check you are attaching the correct side of the Side Skirt to the Center Front Skirt.
3.8Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.9Carefully trim the seam allowance approximately in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
3.10Turn the Skirt so the right sides are facing and press the seam. Make sure your previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.
TIP – Press the seam allowances to the side before turning the garment inside out. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to your French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
3.11Stitch approximately ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
3.12Press the seam allowance towards the Side Skirt.
3.13Repeat steps 3.7 to 3.12 to attach the second Side Skirt to the other side of the Center Front Skirt.
3.14Repeat steps 4.7 to 4.12 to attach each Side Skirt to either side of the Center Back Skirt. You will now have one circular Skirt piece.
NOTE – You will need to attach the Center Back Skirt ½ inch down from the waist edge of the Side Skirt.
4 . Waist Seam4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Separate the Main and Lining of the Bodice. Place the Main Bodice onto the Skirt, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turning the Bodice wrong side out, slide the Skirt in between the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining. Match the raw waist edge of the Bodice Lining with the Skirt and Main Bodice seam. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2 – 4 inch gap for turning. Follow steps 4.5 to 4.9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
4.1Separate the Main and Lining of the Bodice. Place the Main Bodice onto the Skirt, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – You are only attaching the Main Bodice to the Skirt. Move the Lining out of the way before pinning.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.3Turning the Bodice wrong side out, slide the Skirt in between the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining. Match the raw waist edge of the Bodice Lining with the Skirt and Main Bodice seam sewn in step 4.2. Pin.
4.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2 – 4 inch gap for turning.
TIP – Stitch with the Main Bodice/Skirt seam uppermost so that you can stitch directly over the previous stitching.
4.5Gently pull the Skirt through the gap left in step 4.4. Press the seam line.
4.6Close the gap in the waist seam using a slipstitch.
This hand stitch does take longer than sewing a visible machine stitch, but it will create a more polished, professional look.
Begin by lifting the Bodice Lining away from the Main Bodice and Skirt. From the wrong side of the Lining, put your needle through the Lining right on the fold so your knot will be inside the Lining and not visible.
If you know how to slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’), continue to slipstitch the gap in the waist. If you do not know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps.
ALTERNATIVE – You can machine sew the seam if you do not want to hand sew, by pinning, then ‘stitching in the ditch’ around the waist. It does not give the same finish and may show on the exterior of the dress, but it is much faster.
4.7Now line your Lining and Main Bodice back up. Holding the fabrics together, stick your needle through just a small amount of the seam allowance and pull the thread through.
4.8Put your needle into the fold of the lining, passing the needle through the fold a short distance. Pull the thread taut.
Starting directly opposite where your needle came out of the lining fabric, stick your needle through a small amount of the seam allowance and pull the thread through.
Starting directly opposite where your needle came out of the seam allowance, stick your needle into the fold of the lining and pass the needle through a short distance.
4.9Continue until you reach the end of the gap.
5 . Hem5.0If you are sewing a woven dress, follow steps 5.1 to 5.3. For a knit dress follow steps 5.4 to 5.5.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the bottom edge. Do not remove any fabric. Press ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to the folded edge.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
5.1WOVEN: Fold the hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
5.2Repeat step 5.1 to enclose the raw edges.
5.3Topstitch close to the inside folded edge.
5.4KNIT: Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
5.5Using a coverstitch, twin needle, or stretch stitch, topstitch close to the raw edge.
6 . Finish6.1Thread one Tie through each back channel. You can choose to thread them straight or cross them over first.
Adjust the length of the shoulder straps as needed.
Tie in a bow beneath the channels. This will give enough room to slide the dress on and off over your head!
Your Back Tie Dress is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Back Tie Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbacktiedress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewDifficulty Level = Beginner
The Back Tie Dress has a shaped bodice with a V-neck. The ties are attached to the bodice and tied through the channel at the back. There are four skirt panels which drape from the underbust over the waist and hip. The center back waist is elasticated and curved, which sits in the small of the lower back, making it easy to slip over your head. With three length options, mid-thigh, mid-calf and maxi, this makes for a lovely summery dress.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bust
Underbust
Bodice length apex to underbust
Hip
12 – 18 mos
17.0
14.5
4.3
19.0
18 – 24 mos
18.0
15.5
4.6
21.0
2 – 3 yrs
20.0
17.5
5.0
23.0
3 – 4 yrs
21.0
18.5
5.3
25.0
5 – 6 yrs
23.0
20.5
6.0
27.0
7 – 8 yrs
25.0
22.5
6.4
29.0
9 – 10 yrs
26.0
23.5
7.0
31.0
11 – 12 yrs
28.0
25.5
7.5
33.0
Mid-thigh
Hem circumference
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
12 – 18 mos
26.6
31.7
29.3
23.6
34.7
31.7
18 – 24 mos
26.7
32.0
29.5
23.7
35.0
32.0
2 – 3 yrs
27.0
32.2
29.7
24.0
35.2
32.2
3 – 4 yrs
27.0
32.2
30.0
24.0
35.2
32.2
5 – 6 yrs
27.0
32.4
30.0
24.0
35.4
32.4
7 – 8 yrs
27.1
32.6
30.3
24.1
35.6
32.6
9 – 10 yrs
27.7
33.6
31.3
24.7
36.6
33.6
11 – 12 yrs
28.0
34.0
31.5
26.0
37.0
34.0
Materials and ToolsYou can use any mid to light-weight woven or a knit fabric for this dress. You can use the same fabric for your main and lining.
Fabric –
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main and lining same fabric:
Bodice and skirtSkirt main fabric
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
12 – 18 mos
0.5
0.75
1.5
0.25
0.75
1.25
18 – 24 mos
0.5
1.0
1.5
0.25
0.75
1.5
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
1.0
1.75
0.5
1.0
1.5
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
1.25
2.0
0.5
1.25
2.0
5 – 6 yrs
1.0
1.75
2.25
0.75
1.5
2.25
7 – 8 yrs
1.0
2.0
2.5
1.0
1.5
2.5
9 – 10 yrs
1.0
2.0
3.0
1.0
1.75
3.0
11 – 12 yrs
1.0
2.25
4.0
1.0
2.0
3.5
Bodice main and lining
separate fabricBodice main and lining
same fabricMain
Lining
12 – 18 mos
0.25
0.25
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.25
0.25
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.25
0.25
0.25
3 – 4 yrs
0.25
0.25
0.5
5 – 6 yrs
0.25
0.25
0.5
7 – 8 yrs
0.5
0.5
0.5
9 – 10 yrs
0.5
0.5
0.5
11 – 12 yrs
0.5
0.5
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ⅜ inch / 10mm wide Elastic – approximately half a yard is sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.