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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children’s Brooklyn Joggers
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
These jogging bottoms are the epitome of comfort and style. They are high rise, loose fitting pants with a dropped crotch, slight gathering and deep cuffs as well as pocket detailing.
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- +Preparation
- These are loose fitting joggers with a slightly dropped crotch, with the legs gathering slightly into cuffs. The pants have a negative ease at the waist. This means the finished garment measurements will be tighter than the size chart for each size. They are designed for knit (stretch) fabric so they can stretch around your body and fit comfortably without falling down.
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Make sure to use your waist and hip measurement to select the best size. If you are at the bottom of a size range, you may find you need to take the garment in slightly at the side seam. Do this before adding the waistband. For children, choose the size by the waist measurements. You will also want to double check your selected sizes against the finished garment measurements chart before cutting.
- Height adjustment – If your child falls into a different size range for height than they are in for waist or hip size, grade between the sizes by using the crotch and leg length lines for the correct height.
- Muslin – I highly recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first. That way, you can play about with the rise to get it perfect for you, and then you’ll have a master crotch line you can use on this and many other pants or shorts in the future. I would recommend the following to muslin these joggers:
- Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out all pieces except the pocket band and pocket bag (pocket is needed). Label each piece with tailors chalk or fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
- Sew up the Cuff and check the fit before basting it to the leg. Adjust accordingly. If your fabric doesn’t have enough stretch add into the width of the cuff. Check the Pocket Band is going to fit along the curve of the pocket. If your fabric doesn’t have enough stretch, you may need to add length onto the pocket band. Check the fit of your Waistband. Again, if your fabric doesn’t have enough stretch you can add into the length for a better fit.
- Baste your pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your jogger fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric with at least 30% stretch. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, cotton lycra, viscose elastine, ponte, scuba, cotton interlock, stretch velour and stretch French terry. A lighter weight fabric will fit a bit looser and blouson over the cuff more. Do not use a woven fabric.
- Waistband, Pocket and Cuffs – You’ll need ribbing/fabric with at least a 65% stretch with a good recovery. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 65% longer than its original length, then it has at least 65% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 3.3 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your joggers maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- 1 inch wide Elastic – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Cuffs – Ribbing cut 2
- Pocket – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Bag – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Band – Ribbing cut 2
- Waistband – Ribbing cut 1
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewBrooklyn Joggers
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These joggers are the epitome of comfort and style. They are loose fitting with a slightly dropped crotch. The legs gather slightly into deep cuff bands. The ribbed pockets give it that little something extra.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Length
Cuff height
Calf
Back rise
Front rise
Inside leg (incl. cuff)
0 – 3 mos
15.0
21.2
14.5
3.00
9.2
7.7
6.2
8.0
3 – 6 mos
15.5
22.0
16.5
3.00
11.2
8.1
6.4
10.0
6 – 12 mos
16.0
22.6
18.7
3.00
13.2
8.1
6.6
11.8
12 – 18 mos
17.5
23.6
20.5
3.00
15.2
8.3
6.8
13.3
18 – 24 mos
18.5
25.0
22.0
3.00
17.2
8.4
7.0
14.5
2 – 3 yrs
19.0
26.6
24.0
3.00
19.2
8.0
6.5
15.3
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
27.4
25.2
3.00
21.2
8.2
6.7
16.3
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
24.2
28.3
3.00
23.2
8.5
7.1
19.0
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
30.0
31.0
3.00
25.2
9.0
7.5
21.5
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
30.2
34.0
3.00
27.2
9.3
8.0
24.1
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
31.0
38.0
3.00
29.2
9.7
8.3
27.8
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsFabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
(excluding ribbing)Ribbing
(excluding pants)0 – 18 mos
0.75
0.25
18 – 24 mos
1.00
0.25
2 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
(excluding ribbing)Ribbing
(excluding pants)0 – 18 mos
0.75
0.25
18 – 24 mos
1.00
0.25
2 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Joggers 0 – 24 mos 2-9, 13 2 – 3 yrs 10-12, 14-17, 19-25 3 – 12 yrs 10-12, 14-25 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Joggers 0 – 24 mos 2-9, 13 2 – 4 yrs 7, 10-12, 14-17, 19-25 5 – 12 yrs 7, 10-12, 14-25 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Waistband
(Cut 1)Elastic
(Cut 1)Pocket band
(Cut 2)Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
0 – 3 mos
18.7
3.7
1.0
15.0
3.5
2.4
3 – 6 mos
19.7
3.7
1.0
16.0
3.5
2.4
6 – 12 mos
20.6
3.7
1.0
16.5
3.8
2.4
12 – 18 mos
21.3
3.7
1.0
17.5
3.8
2.4
18 – 24 mos
22.2
3.7
1.0
18.5
4.0
2.4
2 – 3 yrs
22.5
4.7
1.0
19.0
5.2
2.8
3 – 4 yrs
23.6
4.7
1.0
20.0
5.2
2.8
5 – 6 yrs
25.0
4.7
1.0
21.0
5.2
2.8
7 – 8 yrs
25.6
4.7
1.0
22.0
5.4
2.8
9 – 10 yrs
27.0
4.7
1.0
23.0
5.4
2.8
11 – 12 yrs
27.6
4.7
1.0
24.0
5.7
2.8
Cutting Checklist:
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
- POCKETS – Fold the Pocket Band in half, wrong sides together, and press. Right sides together, stitch the Pocket Band to the Pocket Bag along the shorter curved edge. Flip the Pocket Band up and press. OPTIONAL topstitch. Pin the Pocket Bag to the pocket, right sides both facing up. Trim off the band excess. Baste together. Right sides together, match pocket and Front Leg at markings. Pin and stitch. Flip the pocket out and press. OPTIONAL topstitch. Repeat for the other side.
- INSEAM – Right sides together, stitch the Front Leg to the Back Leg along the inseam. Repeat for the other leg.
- SIDE SEAM – Right sides together, stitch the Front Leg to the Back Leg along the side seam. Repeat for the other leg.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Turn one of the legs right side out, keeping the other wrong side out. Insert one leg inside the other, right sides together. Stitch together along the curved edge.
- CUFFS – Fold and stitch the Cuff together. Press the seam allowance to one side. Fold the Cuff in half, wrong sides together. Mark quarter points on your Cuff and pant leg. Insert the leg, right side facing out, into the Cuff, matching quarter points. Pin and stitch together. Fold the Cuff down and away from the leg. Press seam allowance down. Repeat for the other leg.
- WAISTBAND – Fold the Waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch short ends together. Press seam allowance to one side. Fold the Waistband in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Stitch elastic together to form a circle. Insert the elastic inside the Waistband at the fold. Pin just beneath the elastic to keep it in place and stitch ⅜ inch below the elastic all the way around the Waistband. Mark the quarter points of the Waistband and the top edge of the joggers. With the joggers right side out, place the Waistband over the top of the joggers, matching raw edges and pin at quarter points. Stretch the Waistband to match the joggers and continue pinning together. Stitch together. Flip the Waistband up and away from the joggers. Press the seam allowance down.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching is two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch (can be done with twin needle) – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching is two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch (can be done with twin needle) – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.
1 . Pockets1.1Fold the Pocket Band in half, wrong sides together, and press.
1.2With the right sides together, pin the Pocket Band to the Pocket Bag along the shorter curved edge.
1.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.4Flip the Pocket Band up and press the seam allowance down.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the band to the Pocket Bag by stitching two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch from the band. You can use a twin needle to get a stretch stitch and do both lines of stitching at the same time.
1.5Place the Pocket Bag on top of the pocket, right sides facing up. Match the markings and pin together.
1.6Trim off the excess band that hangs over the edge of the pocket.
1.7Baste the Pocket Bag to the pocket along the top edge, around the curve, and up the side, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
1.8Take your pocket piece and matching jogger Front Leg piece and match up the marking on the pocket with the marking on the curved edge of the Front Leg piece. Pin.
Pin each end of the pocket to the Front Leg. Continue pinning the curved edge, easing the pieces together
1.9With right sides together, serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.10Flip the pocket to the back and press.
TIP – If your basting stitches are showing, remove them now.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the pocket to the pants by stitching two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch. You can use a twin needle to get a stretch stitch and do both lines of stitching at the same time.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.10 for the other pocket and Front Leg piece.
2 . Inseam2.1With right sides together, pin the Front Leg to the Back Leg along the inseam.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Repeat step 2.1 to 2.2 for the other leg.
3 . Side Seam3.1With right sides together, pin the Front Leg to the Back Leg along the side seam.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Repeat step 3.1 to 3.2 for the other leg.
4 . Front and Back Rise4.1Turn one of the legs right side out, keeping the other wrong side out.
4.2Insert the leg that is right side out, into the other leg. The legs will now be right sides together. Pin the legs together along the curved edge (the rise).
Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5 . Cuffs5.1Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, with right sides together, and pin.
5.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – You can reduce bulk at the seam by pressing the seam allowance open. If you would prefer to do this, I suggest sewing the Cuff together on a regular machine using a stretch stitch.
5.3Press the seam allowance to one side.
NOTE – If you have used a stretch stitch, press the seam allowance open.
5.4Fold the Cuff in half, wrong sides together.
FIT CHECK – Check the fit of the Cuff before sewing it onto the jogger legs.
5.5Mark each quarter of the Cuff (raw edge) and the bottom of the leg with pins.
5.6With both the Cuff and the leg facing right side out, insert the leg into the Cuff. Match up the quarter points and pin together.
NOTE – Check that the leg has not twisted inside the Cuff.
5.7Stretch the Cuff to match the leg and continue to pin together.
5.8Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.9Fold the Cuff down and away from the leg. The raw edges should now be inside the leg.
Press seam allowance down.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.9 for the other leg.
6 . Waistband6.1Fold the Waistband in half, right sides together, and pin the short ends together.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – You can reduce bulk at the seam by pressing the seam allowance open. If you would prefer to do this, I suggest sewing the Cuff together on a regular machine using a stretch stitch.
6.3Press the seam allowance to one side.
NOTE – If you have used a stretch stitch, press the seam allowance open.
6.4Fold the Waistband in half lengthways, wrong sides together.
If your ribbing doesn’t have a good recovery or enough stretch, I recommend adding elastic into the Waistband. If you don’t need to add elastic skip to step 6.8.
6.5Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.
FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their waist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their waist and will hold up the joggers, before continuing to the next step.
6.6Open the Waistband exposing the fold line and place the elastic inside the Waistband at the fold.
Place a pin underneath the elastic, through both layers of the Waistband. Continue pinning around the Waistband.
6.7With the elastic against the top fold of the Waistband, stitch ⅜ inch below the bottom of the elastic. This creates a channel, so the elastic does not move about inside the Waistband.
6.8Mark the quarter points of the Waistband (raw edge) and the top edge of the joggers with pins.
With the joggers right side out, place the Waistband over the top of the joggers, matching raw edges together. Match up the quarter points and pin together.
6.9Stretch the Waistband to match the pants and continue pinning together.
6.10Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6.11Flip the Waistband up and away from the pants. The raw edges should now be inside the pants.
Press the seam allowance down.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Brooklyn Joggers are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbrooklynjoggers.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewBrooklyn Joggers
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These joggers are the epitome of comfort and style. They are loose fitting with a slightly dropped crotch. The legs gather slightly into deep cuff bands. The ribbed pockets give it that little something extra.
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Length
Cuff height
Calf
Back rise
Front rise
Inside leg (incl. cuff)
0 – 3 mos
15.0
21.2
14.5
3.00
9.2
7.7
6.2
8.0
3 – 6 mos
15.5
22.0
16.5
3.00
11.2
8.1
6.4
10.0
6 – 12 mos
16.0
22.6
18.7
3.00
13.2
8.1
6.6
11.8
12 – 18 mos
17.5
23.6
20.5
3.00
15.2
8.3
6.8
13.3
18 – 24 mos
18.5
25.0
22.0
3.00
17.2
8.4
7.0
14.5
2 – 3 yrs
19.0
26.6
24.0
3.00
19.2
8.0
6.5
15.3
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
27.4
25.2
3.00
21.2
8.2
6.7
16.3
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
24.2
28.3
3.00
23.2
8.5
7.1
19.0
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
30.0
31.0
3.00
25.2
9.0
7.5
21.5
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
30.2
34.0
3.00
27.2
9.3
8.0
24.1
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
31.0
38.0
3.00
29.2
9.7
8.3
27.8
Materials and Tools- Your jogger fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric with at least 30% stretch. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, cotton lycra, viscose elastine, ponte, scuba, cotton interlock, stretch velour and stretch French terry. A lighter weight fabric will fit a bit looser and blouson over the cuff more. Do not use a woven fabric.
- Waistband, Pocket and Cuffs – You’ll need ribbing/fabric with at least a 65% stretch with a good recovery. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 65% longer than its original length, then it has at least 65% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 3.3 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your joggers maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
(excluding ribbing)Ribbing
(excluding pants)0 – 18 mos
0.75
0.25
18 – 24 mos
1.00
0.25
2 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
(excluding ribbing)Ribbing
(excluding pants)0 – 18 mos
0.75
0.25
18 – 24 mos
1.00
0.25
2 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1 inch wide Elastic – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.