Children’s Bubble Sleeve Cardie

Bubble Sleeve Cardie

Difficulty Level = Beginner

This loose fitting cardigan has oversized sleeves gathered into a cuff. Add the optional oversized hood for extra warmth. It has a deep band and hem and side slits. Add optional bobbles or pompoms for a super fun look.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

12mo - 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

The cardie has a dropped shoulder with an oversized sleeve gathered into a cuff. It doesn’t close up – it’s meant to be worn as a loose fitting cardie with an optional loose hoody. It has a deep hem with side slits and finishes at the mid-thigh.

• Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size and blending – Pick your size from the chest measurement in the size chart. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your chest measurement to the size for your waist, then to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the hem using your hip measurement size. If you need to adjust for height, e.g., if your child measures a size 5 – 6 chest and a 7 – 8 length. You’ll cut print both sizes, cut the 5 – 6 size with the length of the 7 – 8 so that the pattern will be long enough. If your child is nearer the bottom measurement for height you will need to remove length from the bodice and sleeves hem.
• Sleeve length – Please check the finished sleeve length against your measurement. If you need to add/remove length do this halfway through the Sleeve.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this cardie:
  • Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. 
  • Cut out the following and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen: Fronts, Back and Sleeves. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
  • Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.  

Your cardie fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. You can use a 2 or 4-way stretch.

A lighter weight fabric will drape more than a heavier weight. Great examples are rib knit, double or single brushed poly, rayon spandex, tri-blend, bamboo spandex, sweater knit, textured knit, waffle knit, medium weight jersey, viscose, ponte, scuba, stretch velour and stretch French terry. 

TIP – If you are using a textured knit, especially a cable knit, they may seem smaller in width. Let it hang, then steam it and let it cool before cutting. This should help it expand to its full width.

* Do not use a woven fabric.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• OPTIONAL Clear elastic to stabilize the shoulders if using a very stretchy fabric – approximately half a yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
• OPTIONAL Bobble – You can either buy a ready-made bobble, or if you would like to make your own you will need the following:
  • Use a faux fur with a long or short pile depending on how fluffy you want the bobble to be. Approximately 0.25 yards (60 inch / 150cm wide) will be sufficient for all sizes.
  • You will also need a small amount of stuffing like polyfill or batting to stuff the inside. You could even use scraps of light weight fabric. 
  • OPTIONAL embroidery floss for securing the bobble if using faux fur.
• OR OPTIONAL Pompom – You can either buy a ready-made pompom, or if you would like to make your own you will need:
  • You could use any thickness of yarn and as much or as little as you like. The thicker your yarn or the more you use, the fuller your pompom will be
  • We used less than 1 balls/skeins of yarn per pompom in this tutorial. 
  • Alternatively, you can use any non-fraying fabric for the pompom (e.g., felt, fleece, lycra, fake fur, leather, yarn suiting), or use any other ribbon or trim you like. 
  • A great idea is to mix and match yarn colors, fabric colors or mix and match fabric with a yarn or ribbon/cord/trim!
• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

Cutting Checklist:

• Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Neckband – Fabric cut 2 on fold 
• Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold
• Cuff – Fabric cut 2 on fold
• OPTIONAL Hood:
  • Hood – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
  • Hood Band – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• OPTIONAL Pocket – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
• OPTIONAL Bobble – Fabric cut 24 – 42
• OR OPTIONAL Pompom – Cardboard cut 2

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Baste ¼ inch – Hem 1 ½ inches 

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. OPTIONAL BOBBLES – Create each Bobble. Attach at pattern markings.
2. OPTIONAL POMPOMS – Create each Pompom. Attach at pattern markings.
3. OPTIONAL POCKETS – Stitch the Pocket to the Front. Flip Pocket away from cardigan and press. Repeat for the other three Pocket pieces.
4. SHOULDERS – Lay the Back right side facing up. Place one Front down, right sides together, matching the shoulder. Stitch. Press seam towards Back. Repeat to attach second Front to other shoulder.
5. SLEEVE AND SIDE SEAM – Lay cardigan right side up. Place Sleeve onto armscye, right sides together. Stitch. Press seam towards body. Fold Sleeve in half, right sides together, matching side seam. Match Front and Back side seam, right sides together. Pin up to the side slit pattern marking. Stitch. Repeat on the other side.
6. HEM – Finish the hem raw edges, stitching up and down the side slits. Fold hem 1 ½ inches to the right side at one side of the side slit. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn right side out. Press. Repeat at other side slits. With the cardigan right sides together, measure 1 ½ inches up from the top of the side slit. Pin. Stitch 1 inch down. Lay cardigan flat, wrong side facing up. Stitch from the hem up to the end of side split, squaring off at the top and down the other side, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side. Topstitch the hem.
7. OPTIONAL HOOD – Stitch Hood pieces right sides together, at outer curved edge. Fold Hood Band in half lengthwise, marking center points. Place Hood onto Hood Band, right sides together, matching seam to center of Hood Band. Pin. Continue pinning. Baste. Use burrito roll method to attach other side of Hood Band to this seam. Stitch. Reach inside and pull Hood out. Find and mark center of Back neckline. Lay cardigan right side facing up. Place Hood down, right sides together, matching center seam to center. Pin up to pattern marking. Baste.
8. NECKBAND – Place Neckbands right sides together, matching the short, curved edges. Stitch. Press seam. Fold Neckband in half lengthwise right sides together, matching short sides on both ends. Stitch. Turn right side out. Find and mark center of Back neckline. Place Neckband onto cardigan, right sides together, matching centers and raw edges. Stitch.
9. CUFF – Fold Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Fold Cuff in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Find and mark the quarter points of the Cuff. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around bottom raw edge of Sleeve. Find and mark quarter points of Sleeve. Gather Sleeve in between each quarter. Place Cuff over Sleeve, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Adjust any gathers if needed. Stitch. Repeat for second Sleeve.

Congratulations, your Bubble Sleeve Cardi is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbubblesleevecardi.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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