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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children's Butterfly Costume
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Butterfly Costume
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This cute butterfly costume will have your little one flitting and flying around the place! It includes a butterfly mask, wings, and skirt.
The mask can be scaled to fit any size, however, instructions and pattern pieces are given for one size mask which will fit most children aged 2 to 10 years. You can glue or stitch the mask (no sewing machine required unless you want to!).
The wings and skirt come with pattern pieces & instructions to include sizes newborn to 12 years and do require a sewing machine. There’s an optional layer of tulle to give the skirt some body and optional framing with fishing line or thin wire on the edges of the wings to give them some body and structure.
Use your imagination and have some fun with this! You could add glitter, diamantes, sparkles, buttons, feelers, embroidery… anything you want!
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- +Preparation
- Skirt – The skirt is a cross over skirt. When finished, it is one long piece of fabric that you cross over and fasten at either end at the waist. The wings are stitched into the waistband, with the lining underneath. This makes it really easy to adjust once nearly finished to get a perfect fit. Before adding the fastenings, try the skirt on and mark exactly where you want the fastenings to go.
- To hack the pattern to make a different size that is not provided (adults, for example), simply lengthen and widen the skirt lining and waistband. The skirt should cross over ¾ from each side at the front when finished. The Wing Pieces can then be scaled up or down accordingly.
- Mask – The mask is one size only. It should be a good size for most children’s faces 2-12 years. To check the size, print the base mask pattern page at 100% (no scale) on your printer, then hold it up to your child’s face.
- If you wish to make the mask smaller for an infant, print or photocopy at an 80% scale so the pattern pieces are smaller.
- To make the mask bigger for a teen or adult, print or photocopy the pattern pages at a 120% scale.
- Make sure to hold the base pattern piece up to the face to check the sizing if you scale it before cutting your fabric.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Skirt Lining fabric – See chart below for quantities. This needs to be a light or medium weight woven fabric such as cotton. To help make sure you can’t see the skirt lining while wearing it, pick the same color lining as the main wing fabric.
- Skirt Waistband fabric – Again, this needs to be a light or medium weight woven fabric. Quantities are below.
- Wings – The main Wing Pieces are lined. You can use any woven fabric for the wing. The wing lining needs to be a light weight woven such as cotton. If you select the same color lining and wing fabric (and skirt lining), it will help make it hard to see the lining when the skirt wings move around.
- Wing Markings – These will be stitched directly onto the wing all the way around in an applique style. You could use almost any fabric for these (e.g., cotton, felt, faux leather, vinyl, satin).
- You will also need thread to match for stitching on the Wing Markings.
- Fastenings
- 2x buttons or snaps (¾ or 1 inch wide) to attach the waistband at either end where it crosses over itself.
- Alternatively, you can use 2x 3-inch strips of hook and eye (e.g. Velcro).
- OPTIONAL – Tulle or netting to give the skirt some body. We recommend this to ensure the skirt has some body, but you can skip it if your or your child prefers not to have this layer.
- OPTIONAL – Heavy weight fishing line (we used a 60lb line) or fine wire to give the edges of the wings structure. You’ll need a maximum of 12 yards depending on which size you do. See the chart below for the exact length for your size.
- OPTIONAL – Clear or ‘invisible’ thread for top stitching.
- Cut list
- Lining Front (x2)
- Lining Back (x1)
- Waistband Front (x2)
- Waistband Back (x1)
- Wing Pieces (x8 lining, x8 fabric)
- Fabric and interfacing ready but not cut
- OPTIONAL Tulle – 1x Top Tier, 1x Bottom Tier
- A piece of non-fraying fabric such as felt for the wing center. A 10 inch square will be more than sufficient.
- ¼ inch wide elastic. See the chart below for how much for your size.
- Felt in the colors you prefer for your butterfly.
- If you want to do the same as the example image in the pattern pieces, you will need:
- Black for the face and backing (approximately a 15inch square should suffice)
- 2 different purples for the face markings (total approximately a 15inch square should suffice)
- Yellow for the dots (small amount)
- If you want to do the same as the cover image, you will need:
- Grey for the face and backing (approximately a 15 inch square)
- Purple for the face markings (approximately a 15 inch square). We used 2 different purples (a light and a darker one) and split the quantities evenly.
- Yellow for the dots (approximately a 5 inch square)
- If you want to do the same as the example image in the pattern pieces, you will need:
- 2x pipe cleaners for the antennae
- 1 yard of fusible Web/Iron-on Adhesive. Might also be called double sided interfacing (e.g. “bond a web” or “heat n bond”)
- Ribbon or elastic for a strap
- Pencil to trace the pieces onto the interfacing
- Thread in a variety of colors. You will need matching thread for some stitching, and a contrasting thread color to highlight the mask and feathers and stand out in other parts.
- Skirt Lining & Waistband – Either cut this out using the cutting chart (in INCHES) for your size below or use the pattern pieces provided.
- Skirt Wings – The wings are laid on top of the skirt lining. You can cut as many or as few of these as you prefer to get the look you want. Each wing has a main wing piece, and multiple markings that go on top and a lining that goes at the back. To get the look in the tutorial, you will need to cut 8 of each wing (4x left and 4x right wings). Cut your main wing and wing lining pieces as per the pattern pieces but do not cut the Wing Markings yet. Just put the fabric and interfacing required aside for now.
- Wings – Cut your main wing and wing lining pieces as per the pattern pieces but do not cut the Wing Markings yet. Just put the fabric and interfacing required aside for now.
- Wing Center – Either cut this out using the cutting chart (in INCHES) for your size below or use the pattern pieces provided.
- Elastic – Cut these using the chart below.
- Mask
- Felt and interfacing ready but not cut
- Skirt
- Lining Front (x2)
- Lining Back (x1)
- Waistband Front (x2)
- Waistband Back (x1)
- Wing Pieces (x8 lining, x8 fabric)
- Wing Markings – Fabric and interfacing ready but not cut
- OPTIONAL Tulle – 1x Top Tier, 1x Bottom Tier
- Wings
- Wing Pieces (2x lining, 2x fabric)
- Wing Markings – Fabric and interfacing ready but not cut
- Wing Center (x2)
- Arm elastic (x2)
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
The mask can be scaled to fit any size. However, instructions and pattern pieces are given for one size mask which will fit most children aged 2 to 10 years.
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Skirt lining length
Skirt length (including wings)
Waistband height
0 – 6 mos
6.75
7.75
0.75
6 – 12 mos
7.50
8.25
0.75
12 – 18 mos
8.25
9.00
0.75
18 – 24 mos
9.00
10.00
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
9.75
10.50
1.00
3 – 4 yrs
10.25
11.25
1.00
5 – 6 yrs
11.00
12.00
1.00
7 – 8 yrs
11.75
12.75
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
12.75
13.75
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
13.50
14.25
1.25
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsYou can color the butterfly in any way you want. The pattern pieces contain a colored picture of the mask and one wing for the skirt. There are two contrasting purple colors to give a bit of depth. You could use all one color, two similar ones, or lots of different ones! It’s up to you and your imagination.
For the Skirt:
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
Wings
Main (the large section of wing you can see)
Lining
Wing markings
(All one color / split between several colors)
Skirt lining
Tulle
Fishing line or wire
0 – 6 mos
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.75
6.00
6 – 12 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.50
1.25
7.00
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.50
1.25
7.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.50
1.25
8.00
2 – 3 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
1.75
8.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
1.75
8.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
2.00
9.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
2.00
9.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.50
1.50
1.00
0.75
2.00
10.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
1.50
1.00
0.75
2.00
10.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
Wings
Main (the large section of wing you can see)
Lining
Wing markings
(All one color / split between several colors)
Skirt lining
Tulle
Fishing line or wire
0 – 6 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
6.00
6 – 12 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
7.00
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
7.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
8.00
2 – 3 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.75
8.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
1.75
8.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
2.00
9.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
2.00
9.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
2.00
10.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
2.00
10.00
For the Wings – The wings use the same pattern pieces and fabric as the skirt. You will need lining for the back of the wings, your straps and the wings & Wing Markings.
Fabric Estimate for 45 inches/115 cm wide Fabric (in YARDS)
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
For the Mask:
You will also need:
Tools needed are iron, pins, scissors, ruler, measuring tape, needle and thread for hand or machine sewing. Pinking shears are optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Skirt Wings Mask 0 – 24 mos 17-19, 23-24, 30-31, 37-38, 44-45 10-13 2-7 2 – 3 yrs 25-27, 29, 32-34, 36, 39-42, 46-49 14-16, 20-22 2-7 3 – 6 yrs 25-29, 32-36, 39-42, 46-49 14-16, 20-22 2-7 7 – 12 yrs 25-29, 32-36, 39-43, 46-50 14-16, 20-22 2-7 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Skirt Wings Mask 0 – 6 mos 8, 15, 19-20, 23-27, 30-32, 35, 42 11-14 2-7 6 – 24 mos 8, 15, 19-20, 22-27, 30-33, 35, 42 11-14 2-7 2 – 6 yrs 8, 11-12, 15-19, 23-26, 28-33, 35-40, 42-45 11-12, 16-19, 23-26 2-7 7 – 12 yrs 8, 11-12, 15-19, 23-26, 28-45 11-12, 16-19, 23-26 2-7 Cutting InstructionsFor the Mask – Do not cut out your felt or interfacing yet. Just set your supplies aside ready for the first step.
For the Skirt
Skirt Lining
Lining
Waistband
Lining Front
(cut 2)
Lining Back
(cut 1)
Waistband Front
(cut 2)
Waistband Back
(cut 1)
Length
Width
Length
Width
Height
Width
Height
Width
0 – 6 mos
6.00
7.00
6.00
9.00
2.50
7.00
2.50
9.00
6 – 12 mos
7.50
7.75
7.50
10.00
2.50
7.75
2.50
10.00
12 – 18 mos
8.25
8.13
8.25
10.50
2.50
8.13
2.50
10.50
18 – 24 mos
9.00
8.50
9.00
11.00
2.50
8.50
2.50
11.00
2 – 3 yrs
9.75
8.88
9.75
11.50
3.00
8.88
3.00
11.50
3 – 4 yrs
10.25
9.25
10.25
12.00
3.00
9.25
3.00
12.00
5 – 6 yrs
11.00
9.63
11.00
12.50
3.00
9.63
3.00
12.50
7 – 8 yrs
11.75
10.00
11.75
13.00
3.50
10.00
3.50
13.00
9 – 10 yrs
12.75
10.38
12.75
13.50
3.50
10.38
3.50
13.50
11 – 12 yrs
13.50
10.75
13.50
14.00
3.50
10.75
3.50
14.00
OPTIONAL Skirt Tulle
Top Tier (cut 1)
Bottom Tier (cut 1)
Height
Width
Height
Width
0 – 6 mos
3.75
33.50
3.75
67.00
6 – 12 mos
4.13
48.50
4.13
97.00
12 – 18 mos
4.50
51.00
4.50
102.00
18 – 24 mos
4.88
53.50
4.88
107.00
2 – 3 yrs
5.50
56.00
5.50
112.00
3 – 4 yrs
5.75
58.50
5.75
117.00
5 – 6 yrs
6.13
61.00
6.13
122.00
7 – 8 yrs
6.50
63.50
6.50
127.00
9 – 10 yrs
7.00
66.00
7.00
132.00
11 – 12 yrs
7.38
68.50
7.38
137.00
For the Wings
Wings
Wing Center
(cut 2)
Elastic (¼ inch wide)
Height
Width
Shoulder
(cut 2)
Arm
(cut 2)
0 – 6 mos
2.7
1.5
12.0
5.0
6 – 12 mos
2.9
1.5
13.0
5.0
12 – 18 mos
3.1
1.5
14.0
5.5
18 – 24 mos
3.3
1.5
15.0
5.5
2 – 3 yrs
3.5
1.5
16.0
6.0
3 – 4 yrs
3.8
1.5
16.5
6.0
5 – 6 yrs
4.0
1.5
17.0
6.5
7 – 8 yrs
4.2
1.5
17.5
6.5
9 – 10 yrs
4.5
1.5
18.0
7.0
11 – 12 yrs
4.7
1.5
18.5
7.0
Cutting Checklist:
- Skirt – The skirt is a cross over skirt. When finished, it is one long piece of fabric that you cross over and fasten at either end at the waist. The wings are stitched into the waistband, with the lining underneath. This makes it really easy to adjust once nearly finished to get a perfect fit. Before adding the fastenings, try the skirt on and mark exactly where you want the fastenings to go.
- + Instructions
- INTERFACING – Trace all pieces onto the correct colored interfacing, except the ‘Back of Mask’ piece. Cut out.
- LAYER PIECES – Assemble markings and dots. Press and topstitch the mask markings and dots. Use the layout guide to check placing, OPTIONAL topstitch around the eye and main mask, cut around the main mask and the eye holes.
- FINISH MASK – Place elastic band or ribbon, topstitch elastic or ribbon in place.
- SKIRT LINING – Stitch one skirt wrong sides together with the Skirt Back, trim seam allowance, and make a French seam to encase raw edges, repeat with the other Skirt, attaching to either side of the back. Fold the raw edges of the short edges and bottom long edge ¼ inch, press, fold again ¼ inch the raw edges, press and topstitch.
- OPTIONAL SKIRT TULLE – Cut and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance to get the full length of tulle you need for each tier, make one row of gathering stitches all the way along the top tier and the bottom tier. Fold both tiers in half lengthways, mark center. Match the center pins, lay the longer bottom tier of tulle on top of the top tier. Overlap by ¾ and pin. Pull bottom tier’s gathering stitches and gather so it is the same width as the top tier, pin and stich. Remove gathering stitches. Fold both your Skirt lining and tulle in half lengthwise and mark the center points with a pin. Place the tulle on top of the Skirt. For the tulle, the bottom tier of tulle will be on top of the top layer. For the Skirt lining, the seam allowances and hem will not be showing (they will be facing away from the tulle). Repeat steps 2.5 to 2.6 to gather the tulle to fit the Skirt lining and stitch in place. Remove the gathering stitches. Align the short edges of the tulle with the short edges of the Skirt lining. Stitch in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
- WINGS – For the right facing wing, flip the original pieces. Choose colors for each pattern piece and cut each pattern piece and write what color it will be. Trace the quantity of each piece on double-sided interfacing. Flip for right pieces. Iron the pieces onto the fabric and cut. Place all the pieces, one by one onto your wing, iron. OPTIONAL top stitch each piece. Repeat all steps with the dots. OPTIONAL Add embellishments.
- WING LINING – Place right side together and stitch all the way around, leave the top straight open. Turn the wing inside out, repeat for all the wings.
- OPTIONAL WING FRAMING – If you are going to frame the wings with fishing line or wire, follow along below. Topstitch the curved edge approximately ⅓ inch from the edge. Use your fishing line in through the channel between the folded edge and your topstitching. Stitch over the ends of the fishing line. Turn the tops of the fishing line sideways into the wings so they run along the seam allowance and raw edge, stitch with a zigzag. Repeat with all the wings.
- ATTACH WINGS TO SKIRT – Place one wing on one edge of your Skirt lining right side up, pin. Repeat with all the 8 wings, overlap by 1-2 inches. Stitch all wings to the Skirt with a ⅓ inch seam allowance.
- WAISTBAND – Stitch one Waistband Front to the Waistband Back at the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance, repeat with the other waistband so they are one long strip, press seam open. Press one long edge of the waistband up ½ inch. Place waistband right side against the wrong side of the Skirt. The non-folded edge of the waistband will be against the raw edge of the Skirt and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, press. Fold the waistband right sides together, Stitch both short edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, turn and press. Topstitch all the way around the waistband.
- FASTENINGS – Button or Snap: Attach to the right-hand edge of the waistband, approximately ½ inch in from the edge. Mark where the button or snap is on the other front waistband and apply either a buttonhole or matching snap. Repeat to attach a button or snap to the other end of the waistband. Hook and Eye Fastening: Apply the scratchy part of your hook and eye to one end of the waistband, on the side of the waistband. Mark where you need your other piece of hook and eye in the overlap area and Apply the other piece.
- BUTTERFLY WINGS – Pin one of your wing centers over the join in the wings. Turn the wings over and pin the other wing center to cover the other side of the join, topstitch ¼ inch from the edges. With a zigzag stitch attach one end of the shoulder elastic to the back of the wings on a corner of the wing center. Stitch the other end of the shoulder elastic to the other end of the wing center. Repeat with the other shoulder elastic. Fold your arm elastics in half and position at the bend in the wing. Pin in place. Stitch in place using a zig zag stitch. Repeat to attach the other arm elastic to the other side of the wing.
- If you are doing the Skirt only, you will need 8 completed wings (4x left and 4x right)
- If you are doing the wings only, you will need 2 completed wings (1x left and 1x right)
- If you are doing the Skirt and the wings, you will need 10 completed wings (5x left and 5x right)
- For the Skirt only, you will need 8 completed wings (4x left and 4x right)
- For the wings only, you will need 2 completed wings (1x left and 1x right)
- For the Skirt AND the wings, you will need 10 completed wings (5x left and 5x right)
- One button or snap at each end of the Skirt, then a matching buttonhole or snap where you want it to fasten. If you are making the Skirt for a particular child and you know their measurements, this will give a secure and precise fitting.
- Or a strip of hook and eye at one end of the Skirt waistband on the outside and the matching piece of hook and eye at the other end of the Skirt waistband on the inside. If you are making the Skirt and don’t have the child’s measurements and/or you’d like the Skirt to fit over a few years, this will give an option where you can adjust the fit easily by doing it up tighter or looser.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch
Mask –
Skirt –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch
0.0Assembling your mask is a bit like putting a puzzle together. You need to assemble from the base of the mask upwards, with the top pieces going on last.
You will find in the pattern piece pages a drawing of both the assembled mask, so you can see how it will look at the end, and a diagram showing how the pieces get layered together.
Before starting, make sure you’ve got the layout guide to hand so you can refer to it. There is one in the pattern piece pages which is the actual size so if you wish, you can lay your pieces on it and arrange them to check you are happy before assembling.
There is a color guide for the different markings on the first ‘finished look’ page in the pattern pieces. Feel free to follow this, or to go with whatever colors you’d like!
1 . Interfacing1.1There are several ways you could assemble the mask (glue, stitching, and interfacing). We will be showing how to use a combination of double-sided iron on interfacing and stitching in these instructions.
Trace or print all your pattern pieces onto interfacing in pencil except the ‘back of mask’ piece. You do not need interfacing for this piece.
If you are tracing (not printing), make sure to write on each piece what the name of the piece is and the color it needs to be in, and whether it goes on the left or right side of the mask.
TIP – Before you start tracing the pieces you need, work out which color you want each one to be in using the coloring page. Then, trace all the pieces in one color first, then trace the next color. That way they’ll be grouped by color on your interfacing and you can iron all pieces from each color at once in the next step.
TIP – You can see here I’ve written on my interfacing ‘Dark’, ‘Light’ and ‘Spots’ so I can identify which pieces should be which color. I have also labelled them with the marking number and left or right by putting L1 or R1 for the left and right marking #1. Feel free to label yours however makes most sense to you, but given how many pieces there are, do make sure to label them somehow!
1.2Cut out and iron interfacing onto desired color felt for each piece.
You will also need a piece of felt which will be the back of the mask. Do not cut it out yet, but just make sure you have a piece of felt ready for later which is the approximate size.
Make sure to place the interfacing glue-side down and keep the paper on the other side of your interfacing. Follow your manufacturer’s instructions for ironing it onto the felt. Most will require no steam on your iron and a low heat.
TIP – Place a pressing cloth (or a thin color-fast tea towel, piece of muslin or light colored cotton) in between your iron and the felt & interfacing. This will stop any little bits of glue from squishing out the edges of the interfacing as it melts and getting on your iron. You may need to use a slightly higher heat on your iron if you are using a pressing cloth, but it will protect your iron and the other pieces of fabric.
1.3Cut out each piece so you have all the pieces ready to use. Leave the paper backing on for now.
2 . Layer Pieces2.1Before you start, check you have all the pieces you need by doing a mock assembly of the mask. Check it against the layout diagram and make sure you are happy with the colors and pieces.
Turn your felt the other way up so you can see the color. Leave the paper on the underside for now.
Place the markings and dots in place, then the nose. Use the layout guides to help.
Do not attach anything yet.
Once you are happy with it, remove all the pieces and we will start attaching them in the next step.
2.2Remove the paper backing from marking #1 one first and press in place.
We will attach the nose last but I’d recommend just laying the nose on the mask for now so you can see how it relates to the other markings. Don’t glue the nose down yet though. Just lay it on to use as reference and then remove it when you come to pressing.
TIP – Use a pressing cloth in between your mask and iron to protect your iron from stray bits of glue that might come out from under the marking pieces. If you’re using felt, it’ll also protect the felt from burning with the heat of the iron.
TIP – Make sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions on what heat and setting to have your iron on. Most double side interfacing requires a medium heat setting with no steam, but this can vary by brand and glue type.
TIP – If you don’t have a pressing cloth, use a clean, thin tea towel or a plain light-colored piece of cotton fabric. Pick something you don’t mind if it gets marks on it in case the glue goes on it. The fabric you use should be plain and light colored, so it doesn’t transfer onto or stain your mask.
2.3One by one, remove the paper backing from each piece and glue down by pressing.
Make sure to do them one at a time, not all at once. If you do them all at once, it’s easy to accidentally have one move while pressing and then it’s glued in the wrong place. Just press one at a time, working downwards from the top of the face to the bottom. Keep the nose free to do last.
2.4Peel the paper backing off the mask and place it on your backing fabric. If your backing fabric has a right and wrong side, it should be wrong sides together.
Press the mask onto the backing fabric. As it’s now several layers in places, you may find you need to press a little longer to have the glue melt and adhere. Make sure to still follow your manufacturer’s instructions and use a pressing cloth to avoid damage.
Do not cut around your mask piece yet. In the next step, we will optionally topstitch and it’s much easier to do this while the mask is still on a larger backing piece as it is now.
TIP – Place a second pressing cloth underneath your mask just in case to protect your ironing board.
2.5OPTIONAL – Top stitch around all the pieces using either a contrasting or matching thread.
TIP – If you use a regular stitch length, you shouldn’t need to backstitch at either end (which will give a cleaner looking finish). The thread should be tight enough that you can just trim the threads and leave it. That said, you can if you want to. Do a test on 2 layers of felt to see if it holds well.
TIP – Make sure your felt has cooled from pressing it before you stitch. This will mean the glue is more likely to be cold. If you stitch while the glue is still warm, it can stick to the needle as you stitch.
TIP – When you’ve finished your mask and tutu, change your needle to a fresh one just in case tiny bits of glue got stuck to it while stitching through the felt & interfacing so that it’s fresh for your next project.
NOTE – If you haven’t done top stitching before, it is where you stitch close to the edge either for a decorative effect or to hold a piece in place. Here, it gives a finished look, while also giving the pieces more security. If you are happy with the glue on the interfacing and prefer not to, you could skip this step.
2.6OPTIONAL – Top stitch around the eye holes and the main mask shape.
If you’d like to add any other decorative touches (e.g. buttons, sparkles, embroidery), do these now. Let your imagination run wild!
2.7Cut around the main mask piece.
Cut out the eye holes.
TIP – To cut the eye holes easily, make a snip in the center of the eye, then cut outwards towards the edge.
3 . Finish Mask3.1You can either use one piece of elastic to attach the mask so it slips on over the child’s head, or a piece of ribbon either side which ties behind the child’s head.
For younger children, we would only recommend elastic for safety reasons. However, for older children you can use either elastic or ribbon. We’ve found the elastic option to be more practical with children being able to put the mask on and off themselves, but the ribbon gives a beautiful look with the bow behind the head.
ELASTIC OPTION – Attach one end of the elastic at the side back of the mask by stitching over the end a few times. Check the elastic length again against your child’s head. Adjust for comfort and fit, if necessary. Attach the other side.
RIBBON OPTION – Attach a piece of ribbon to the back side of each side of the mask and stitch in place.
NOTE – If preferred, you could glue the elastic or ribbon in place. This can come undone more easily than stitching though so make sure to double check the strength of the glue is sufficient to hold the ribbon or elastic in place.
1 . Skirt LiningSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch
1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With right sides together, serge your front pieces to either side of the back piece using ½ inch seam allowance. The Skirt lining should now be one long rectangle. Serge each short edge, and one long edge to finish. Then turn under and press. Top stitch all three sides in place. The top edge should still be raw. Skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the side seams together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
1.1Place one Skirt front wrong sides together with the Skirt Back.
Stitch the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
Press this tiny seam allowance to one side. Turn the seam inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
1.3Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).
1.4Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 with the other Skirt front piece so that there is one Skirt front attached to either side of the back. Your Skirt should be one long strip now.
Press each of the seams outwards towards the front pieces.
1.5We will now finish all the edges of the Skirt.
Turn the raw edge of both short edges of the Skirt and the bottom long edge under ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.
You will find at the corners of the hem that the folds will cross over. Press the bottom hem on the top of the side hem.
1.6Turn the raw edges under another ¼ inch again and press.
Top stitch down each short side close to the folded edge to secure. Top stitch along the bottom folded edge to secure.
Your Skirt lining should now be one long rectangle of fabric with the two short edges and the long hem finished. The top edge will be raw still.
2 . OPTIONAL Skirt Tulle2.0The Skirt tulle is optional. The purpose of it is to give the wings some body. It cushions them from sitting flat against the body and props them out a bit. This gives them some movement and structure as the wearer moves.
If you are doing the tulle, continue below. If not, skip to step 3.1.
2.1First, if you have cut your tulle in several pieces, stitch these together now using a ¼ inch seam allowance to get the full length of tulle you need for each tier (refer to the cutting charts in the cutting section if you’re not sure what total length tulle you need). Most sizes will have cut their bottom tier in two pieces. This needs to be stitched together now.
You should now have 1x ‘top tier’ of tulle and 1x ‘bottom tier’ of tulle.
Then, we are going to stitch one row of gathering stitches all the way along the top tier of tulle.
To do this, set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Stitch approximately ½ inch from the edge.
Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo).
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads I find I have!
Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.
2.2Repeat step 2.1 to stitch a row of gathering stitches all the way along the top of the bottom tier of tulle.
2.3Fold both tiers of tulle in half lengthways and mark the center points with a pin.
2.4Matching the center pins, lay the longer bottom tier of tulle on top of the top tier. Overlap by ¾ inch and pin in place.
2.5Keeping the bottom tier of tulle on top, align the edges of the tulle and pin.
The bottom tier of tulle will now be pinned to the top tier or tulle at the sides and center.
Pull gently on the bottom tier’s gathering stitches and gather so it is the same width as the top tier.
Pin in place.
2.6Stitch the bottom tier to the top tier of tulle.
Try to align your stitches so they are just less than ½ inch from the edge. This means you will be stitching roughly in the middle of the overlap between the two tiers, but not over your gathering stitches. That way you will still be able to remove your gathering stitches easily in the next step.
2.7Pull gently on the bobbin thread from your gathering stitches to remove them.
TIP – If the thread you are pulling breaks, switch to the other end of the stitching and pull from there instead.
2.8Fold both your Skirt lining and tulle in half lengthwise and mark the center points with a pin.
Place your Skirt lining and tulle so they are both right side up. Place the tulle on top of the Skirt. For the tulle, the bottom tier of tulle will be on top of the top layer. For the Skirt lining, the seam allowances and hem will not be showing (they will be facing away from the tulle).
Pin the tulle to the Skirt lining at the center points and also at the sides.
2.9Repeat steps 2.5 to 2.6 to gather the tulle to fit the Skirt lining and stitch in place. Remove the gathering stitches.
NOTE – The tulle will be slightly longer than the Skirt lining, this is correct.
2.10Align the short edges of the tulle with the short edges of the Skirt lining. Stitch in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This is to hold the tulle in place and stop it from showing too much in the final Skirt when the wearer moves.
3 . Wings3.0This step is the same for both the Skirt and the wings.
The pattern pieces make a LEFT facing wing. To make a right facing wing, simply flip the pattern pieces over to get a mirror image RIGHT facing wing.
NOTE – The dots are just circles so they are the same for both the left and right wings (you don’t need to flip these over when you trace them).
3.1Use the wing layout image to decide what colors you want each part of your wing.
TIP – Print out the wing layout and write on it what color you want each piece so you can easily refer to it later. There’s about to be a whole heap of Wing Markings floating about. The more organized and labelled, the easier assembly will be!
3.2There are lots of small pieces to the wings. You can cut them out however you wish. This is how we have found it easiest…
Cut each pattern piece out.
Write on each piece what color it will be.
TIP – If you are planning on reusing the pattern pieces for more butterfly costumes in the future, trace each piece onto a piece of card and label. The paper pattern pieces work fine for one set of Skirt and wings but can quickly get crumpled if you are tracing more than this.
3.3Trace the quantity of each piece you need on to the paper side of your double sided interfacing.
Make sure to remember to flip your pattern pieces over to make the mirror image copies you need.
TIP – Keep all the same pieces together on the interfacing. That way if you are using different colors for the different markings, they are all together and easier to iron onto the fabric in one go.
3.4Label each of the pieces as you go.
Here we have labelled each piece with the marking number (e.g., ‘1’), and either ‘L’ or ‘R’ to indicate if it’s a Left (regular) or Right (mirror image) wing.
Count and check when you are finished that you have the quantity of each piece that you need.
TIP – Print out your wing layout and tick off each piece as you do them.
3.5Check your design which color fabric you want each marking to be and iron those pieces onto the fabric.
TIP – Use a pressing cloth in between your interfacing and iron to protect your iron from stray bits of stray interfacing glue. If you’re using felt, it’ll also protect the fabric from burning with the heat of the iron.
TIP – Make sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions on what heat and setting to have your iron on. Most double side interfacing requires a medium heat setting with no steam, but this can vary by brand and glue type.
TIP – If you don’t have a pressing cloth, use a clean, thin tea towel or a plain light-colored piece of cotton fabric. Pick something you don’t mind having ruined if the glue goes on it. Also make sure the fabric you use is plain and light colored, so it doesn’t transfer onto or stain your fabric.
3.6Cut around each of your markings.
TIP – Wait until the interfacing is cool before cutting so the glue doesn’t get stuck on your scissors.
TIP – If you have a ‘not best’ pair of scissors, use these for this step. Most interfacing brands are great and will cut just like fabric, however, cutting this much with the paper backing can cause blunting.
3.7Put all your markings into piles. Make sure you have the correct number of left and right pieces.
3.8Lay your Wing Markings out on one wing and check against the wing layout that you’re happy with how it looks and where each piece is.
Make sure to allow a ¼ inch seam allowance around the edge of the main wing piece for when we attach the wing lining.
NOTE – For now, we are just applying the main markings. We are not yet attaching the dots. If you wish, put some on your wing now to check you are happy with the layout and then remove them again.
3.9One by one, remove the paper backing from each piece and glue down by pressing.
Make sure to do them one at a time, not all at once. If you do them all at once, it is really easy to accidentally have one move while pressing and then it’s glued in the wrong place. Just press one at a time, working downwards from the top of the face to the bottom. Keep the nose free to do last.
TIP – Use a pressing cloth in between your wing and iron to protect your iron from stray bits of glue that might come out from under the marking pieces. If you’re using felt, it’ll also protect the fabric from burning with the heat of the iron.
3.10Repeat step 3.9 to create all your wings.
Count as you are going to make sure you end up with the correct number of left and right facing wings. You will need:
Remember to leave the ¼ inch seam allowance around the edge of the main wing piece. Do not allow your markings to go into the seam allowance.
3.11OPTIONAL – Top stitch around each of the markings to secure it. You could use a regular straight stitch to do this, or any kind of zig zag, decorative, blanket or applique stitch.
You could either use a contrasting or matching thread to do this depending on the look you want.
NOTE – If this Skirt is likely to get worn often and eventually washed, this step is highly recommended to reduce fraying and avoid the markings coming off.
3.12Repeat steps 3.9 to 3.11 to add the dots. There are 5 large dots and 6 small dots per wing.
NOTE – Depending on how artistic you want to be with your wings, you could follow the layout for the dots, or you could ‘wing’ it here (excuse the pun!) and just put them where you like them most.
Add any other embellishments you want (diamantes, beads, ribbon, etc.).
Make sure to leave your ¼ inch seam allowance around the edge of the wing for attaching the lining. Don’t allow your dots or other decorations to stray into this area.
4 . Wing Lining4.1Place your wing lining right sides together with your wing.
Stitch all the way around the curved edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Leave the top straight edge open.
4.2Before we turn the wing through, we need to clip the seam allowance to allow the curved edges to sit flat.
You can snip into the seam allowance using tiny little cuts that go ¾ of the way into the seam allowance, all the way along the curved edges.
Or alternatively, if you have them, use pinking shears to trim your seam allowance. The zig zag pattern of the shears will act on this small seam allowance in the same way that clipping a seam allowance will.
If you use scissors, use the very tip of your scissors only for maximum control. For both options, be careful not to cut too close to your stitching.
4.3Turn your wing inside out, make sure the curves are completely turned through and press.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for all wings.
If you’d like your wings framed, skip to step 5.1. Otherwise continue below with step 4.4.
4.4REGULAR WINGS – Top stitch the curved edge of each wing approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.
Skip to step 6.1.
5 . OPTIONAL Wing Framing5.0If you are going to frame the wings with fishing line or wire, follow along below. Otherwise, skip to step 6.1.
5.1Top stitch the curved edge approximately ⅓ inch from the edge. This leaves a channel all the way around the outside for you to insert your fishing line or wire into.
NOTE – In the tutorial, we use fishing line. From here on, we will refer to it as fishing line but you can also use a thin wire.
TIP – These stitches will go over some of your markings. Use clear or invisible thread if you do not want them to be seen.
5.2Insert your fishing line in the channel between the folded edge and your top stitching. It might require a bit of wiggling.
As you go through the corners, you might need to wiggle the line using your fingertips. It can be a slow process if your line gets stuck but with tiny little wiggles, it will go through. If it gets stuck, pull it back slightly and try again.
TIP – If you are doing one of the smaller sizes, you might find your wire goes through more easily from one direction than another due to the tight curves.
5.3Once your line is all the way through your wing, push it into the wing as much as possible to really fill all the space. The more you can push it in, the tauter the wing will become and the more structure the wing will have.
Trim the excess, leaving 1 inch sticking out either end of the channel.
TIP – Feel the tip of your fishing line first for sharp points before you insert it. Ideally, you want it blunt (or just not ‘sharp’ feeling so it doesn’t get caught as you insert it through). If it is sharp, try cutting it again, or smooth it with a little bit of fine sandpaper. If this doesn’t help, wrap some tape around the tip.
5.4Stitch over the ends of the fishing line a few times, approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
Check the line is secure and isn’t going to fall out.
TIP – Go carefully and slowly to check your machine stitches over the fishing line ok and it doesn’t break the needle. The first time you stitch over it, use your hand wheel on your machine to go super slow. If you are using wire, only use the hand wheel on your machine for safety.
5.5Turn the tops of the fishing line sideways into the wings so they run along the seam allowance and raw edge.
Use a zig zag stitch to secure them in place. Try to keep your fishing line in the center of the zig zag as you stitch so the zig zagging of the stitching encloses the fishing line.
The raw edges might roll or curl at this point with the zig zag stitch and the line. This is ok. They will be hidden inside the waistband of the finished Skirt.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.5 for all wings.
NOTE – Doing this rather than trimming the line means that it won’t fall or wiggle its way loose, and the tips of the line won’t stick into the wearer or irritate them while wearing the Skirt.
6 . Attach Wings to Skirt6.0The photos below show the Skirt lining with the tulle attached. If you have not done the tulle, just ignore this in the photos. The step is the same for both the option with the tulle and without.
6.1With your Skirt lining right side up (tulle on top if you did it), place one wing on one edge of your Skirt lining right side up.
Align the wing so that the top raw edge of the wing matches with the top raw edge of the Skirt lining.
The right-hand edge of the wing should overhang ½ inch past the right-hand edge of the Skirt lining.
Pin or clip in place.
6.2Repeat step 6.1 to pin another wing to the other edge of the Skirt lining.
The wings should overlap by 1-2 inches.
6.3Space your remaining wings out along the rest of the Skirt lining and pin in place.
You should have 8 wings in total. You can arrange them left wing, right wing, left wing and so on, or mix them up.
There will be an overlap for each wing. You can do equal overlaps the whole way along or space them unevenly.
Clip them in place and see what you prefer!
6.4Stitch all wings to the Skirt lining using a ⅓ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The ⅓ seam allowance is important as it keeps the stitching hidden inside the waistband once it’s attached. However, if you prefer, you could baste (a long, removable stitch like a gathering stitch) the wings instead so that you can remove it at the end if it is visible.
7 . Waistband7.1Stitch one Waistband Front to the Waistband Back at the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press seam open.
7.2Stitch the other Waistband Front to the other edge of the back waistband using a ¼ inch seam allowance so they are one long strip.
7.3Press both seams open.
7.4Press one long edge of the waistband up ½ inch.
7.5Place your waistband right side against the wrong side of the Skirt. The non-folded edge of the waistband will be against the raw edge of the Skirt.
The waistband will be approximately ½ inch longer than the Skirt on either side at the raw edge.
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.6Press the waistband up with the Skirt seam allowance up into the waistband.
7.7Fold the waistband right sides together so the folded edge matches up with the seam line you just sewed in step 7.5.
Stitch both short edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.8Turn waistband through and press.
Make sure the raw edges of the Skirt are tucked up inside the waistband. No raw edges should be showing now.
7.9Top stitch all the way around the waistband, approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.
8 . Fastenings8.0The Skirt wraps over itself. You need to attach either:
If you have your model available, try the Skirt on, wrap it so it is comfortable and mark where you want your fastenings. Or alternatively, follow the directions below to put them as marked to fit the largest measurements in each size range.
For the button or snap option, follow from step 8.1.
For the hook and eye option, skip to step 8.2.
8.1For button or snap fastenings, lay the Skirt flat, right side up.
Attach a button or snap to the right-hand edge of the waistband. It should be approximately ½ inch in from the edge and centered vertically on the waistband (or if you prefer, you could attach two small fastenings, one above the other).
Flip the Skirt over so it is right side down. Fold each front piece over. They should each go ¾ of the way across the back piece.
Mark where the button or snap is on the other front waistband and apply either a buttonhole or matching snap.
This should fasten one end of the Skirt in place.
Do the button or snap up. Then, repeat to attach a button or snap to the other end of the waistband. Both ends should now be secured.
8.2For hook and eye fastenings, apply the scratchy part of your hook and eye to one end of the waistband, on the right side of the waistband.
Close your Skirt so that the fronts cross over. They should cross ¾ of the way across the front of the Skirt and overlap in the middle.
Mark where you need your other piece of hook and eye in the overlap area. Apply the other piece (the soft, furry bit) of your hook and eye to the wrong side of the other end of your waistband.
There should now be a piece of hook and eye attached to either end of your waistband which will do up when you close the Skirt.
1 . Create WingsSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch
1.1Follow the Skirt steps 3, 4, and 5 to create 1x left and 1x right wing.
2 . Attach Wings2.1You should now have 1x left and 1x right wing, plus 2 wing centers.
Place the wings on a flat surface, with the raw edges butted up against each other.
The wings won’t actually be attached to each other yet, just placed right up against each other.
2.2Pin one of your wing centers over the join in the wings.
The wings should now be joined by the wing center.
2.3Turn the wings over and pin the other wing center to cover the other side of the join.
Check the wing centers are aligned one on top of the other so that when we stitch them in the next step, the stitching will be centered on both. Adjust if necessary.
2.4Top stitch the wing centers in place, approximately ¼ inch from the edges.
Your stitching should catch both wings, and both wing centers. The raw edges of the wings should be covered by the wing centers.
2.5Using a zig zag stitch, attach one end of the shoulder elastic to the back of the wings on a corner of the wing center.
The end of the elastic should sit approximately ¾ inch onto the wing center.
Make sure to use a matching color bobbin thread so your stitching isn’t obvious on the other side of the wing center.
If possible, try the wing on and adjust the elastic to fit.
Stitch the other end of the shoulder elastic to the other end of the wing center.
TIP – Check before you stitch that your zig zag stitch will stay inside the width of the elastic. If it goes either side of the elastic, it will miss it entirely and not hold it on. You may need to narrow your zig zag stitch to do this. Or alternatively you could use a straight stitch and just stitch back and forth in a few places to secure it.
2.6Repeat step 2.5 to attach the other shoulder elastic.
2.7Fold your arm elastics in half and position at the bend in the wing. Pin in place.
Try the wings on and check you’re happy with the fit of the elastic. Adjust or move to fit for comfort.
Stitch in place using a zig zag stitch, going over the same spot a few times.
TIP – Make sure to change your bobbin thread to the appropriate color for where you’ve positioned the arm elastic.
Repeat to attach the other arm elastic to the other side of the wing.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Butterfly Costume is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbutterflycostume.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2022
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationSizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
The mask can be scaled to fit any size. However, instructions and pattern pieces are given for one size mask which will fit most children aged 2 to 10 years.
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Skirt lining length
Skirt length (including wings)
Waistband height
0 – 6 mos
6.75
7.75
0.75
6 – 12 mos
7.50
8.25
0.75
12 – 18 mos
8.25
9.00
0.75
18 – 24 mos
9.00
10.00
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
9.75
10.50
1.00
3 – 4 yrs
10.25
11.25
1.00
5 – 6 yrs
11.00
12.00
1.00
7 – 8 yrs
11.75
12.75
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
12.75
13.75
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
13.50
14.25
1.25
Materials and ToolsYou can color the butterfly in any way you want. The pattern pieces contain a colored picture of the mask and one wing for the skirt. There are two contrasting purple colors to give a bit of depth. You could use all one color, two similar ones, or lots of different ones! It’s up to you and your imagination.
For the Skirt:
- Skirt Lining fabric – See chart below for quantities. This needs to be a light or medium weight woven fabric such as cotton. To help make sure you can’t see the skirt lining while wearing it, pick the same color lining as the main wing fabric.
- Skirt Waistband fabric – Again, this needs to be a light or medium weight woven fabric. Quantities are below.
- Wings – The main Wing Pieces are lined. You can use any woven fabric for the wing. The wing lining needs to be a light weight woven such as cotton. If you select the same color lining and wing fabric (and skirt lining), it will help make it hard to see the lining when the skirt wings move around.
- Wing Markings – These will be stitched directly onto the wing all the way around in an applique style. You could use almost any fabric for these (e.g., cotton, felt, faux leather, vinyl, satin).
- You will also need thread to match for stitching on the Wing Markings.
- Fastenings
- 2x buttons or snaps (¾ or 1 inch wide) to attach the waistband at either end where it crosses over itself.
- Alternatively, you can use 2x 3-inch strips of hook and eye (e.g. Velcro).
- OPTIONAL – Tulle or netting to give the skirt some body. We recommend this to ensure the skirt has some body, but you can skip it if your or your child prefers not to have this layer.
- OPTIONAL – Heavy weight fishing line (we used a 60lb line) or fine wire to give the edges of the wings structure. You’ll need a maximum of 12 yards depending on which size you do. See the chart below for the exact length for your size.
- OPTIONAL – Clear or ‘invisible’ thread for top stitching.
- Cut list
- Lining Front (x2)
- Lining Back (x1)
- Waistband Front (x2)
- Waistband Back (x1)
- Wing Pieces (x8 lining, x8 fabric)
- Fabric and interfacing ready but not cut
- OPTIONAL Tulle – 1x Top Tier, 1x Bottom Tier
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
Wings
Main (the large section of wing you can see)
Lining
Wing markings
(All one color / split between several colors)
Skirt lining
Tulle
Fishing line or wire
0 – 6 mos
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.75
6.00
6 – 12 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.50
1.25
7.00
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.50
1.25
7.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.50
1.25
8.00
2 – 3 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
1.75
8.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
1.75
8.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
2.00
9.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
2.00
9.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.50
1.50
1.00
0.75
2.00
10.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
1.50
1.00
0.75
2.00
10.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Skirt
Wings
Main (the large section of wing you can see)
Lining
Wing markings
(All one color / split between several colors)
Skirt lining
Tulle
Fishing line or wire
0 – 6 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
6.00
6 – 12 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
7.00
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
7.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
8.00
2 – 3 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.75
8.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
1.75
8.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
2.00
9.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
2.00
9.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
2.00
10.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
2.00
10.00
For the Wings – The wings use the same pattern pieces and fabric as the skirt. You will need lining for the back of the wings, your straps and the wings & Wing Markings.
- A piece of non-fraying fabric such as felt for the wing center. A 10 inch square will be more than sufficient.
- ¼ inch wide elastic. See the chart below for how much for your size.
Fabric Estimate for 45 inches/115 cm wide Fabric (in YARDS)
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
For the Mask:
- Felt in the colors you prefer for your butterfly.
- If you want to do the same as the example image in the pattern pieces, you will need:
- Black for the face and backing (approximately a 15inch square should suffice)
- 2 different purples for the face markings (total approximately a 15inch square should suffice)
- Yellow for the dots (small amount)
- If you want to do the same as the cover image, you will need:
- Grey for the face and backing (approximately a 15 inch square)
- Purple for the face markings (approximately a 15 inch square). We used 2 different purples (a light and a darker one) and split the quantities evenly.
- Yellow for the dots (approximately a 5 inch square)
- If you want to do the same as the example image in the pattern pieces, you will need:
- 2x pipe cleaners for the antennae
- 1 yard of fusible Web/Iron-on Adhesive. Might also be called double sided interfacing (e.g. “bond a web” or “heat n bond”)
- Ribbon or elastic for a strap
- Pencil to trace the pieces onto the interfacing
You will also need:
- Thread in a variety of colors. You will need matching thread for some stitching, and a contrasting thread color to highlight the mask and feathers and stand out in other parts.
Tools needed are iron, pins, scissors, ruler, measuring tape, needle and thread for hand or machine sewing. Pinking shears are optional but not required.