Children's Cerena Sewing Pattern

Interfacing

If you are doing the Plain Back option, you do not need to apply interfacing. Skip to the next step. 

If you are doing the Button Placket option, fuse the interfacing to the Back Bodice pieces as per manufacturer’s instructions. 

Each strip of interfacing needs to be aligned ¼ inch from the raw edge on the wrong side of the fabric. Your interfacing should be 1-inch wide. 

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing fabric pen or chalk. There are four dart markings: 2x Front and 2x Back bottoms.

If you are using ribbon or lace for your Necktie, skip to step 2.

If you are doing baby size (0 to 24 months), skip to step 1.4. If you are doing a child size 2 to 12 years, follow the steps 1.1 to 1.3.

Fold Necktie in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance, then turn right sides out. 

TIPS FOR TURNING:

Method A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).

Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.

Method B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.

ALTERNATIVE METHOD:

If you find the turning method difficult, alternatively you can fold it like double fold bias tape. To do this, lay your Necktie piece right side down. Fold each long edge inwards ¼ inch (wrong sides together) and press. Fold Necktie in half length, wrong side facing, and press. Top stitch.

Turn both ends under twice and top stitch in place. Alternatively tuck the raw edges up inside and top stitch in place.

Skip to step 2.

FOR SIZES 0-24 MONTHS – Fold Necktie right sides together lengthwise.

Stitch along one short side and down the long side using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the corner and trim the seam allowance approximately in half. 

Turn right sides out. Press.

Tuck the open short end in on itself to create a closed end. Press and stitch closed.

Stitch the Velcro tabs to the ends, on opposite sides.

TIP – To securely stitch on the Velcro, stitch in a rectangle around the edge of the Velcro. There is often a flat part on either side of the Velcro without any hooks and loops. A walking foot or your zipper foot will help you to get a straight line along this section.

TIP – Pin the Velcro first, then do the Necktie up to check that you have the Velcro on opposite sides of the tie.

If you are sewing the plain back version, follow steps 2.1 to 2.4. If you are sewing the button placket option, follow below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the top edge of the Back Bodice using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 2.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Turn top of Back under ¼ inch and press.

Turn under again ¾ inch, press and top stitch in place close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛ inch).

Starting at the side seam, feed the elastic through the casing. Stop when the other end of the elastic is close to disappearing inside the casing.

TIP – If you don’t have a tool for this, use a safety pin to pin to one end of the elastic to help you feed it through the casing.

Stitch the elastic down at the side seam end approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

PLAIN BACK OPTION – Continue to feed your elastic all the way through the casing. Baste to hold at the other side seam when it reaches there. Skip to step 3.

BUTTON PLACKET OPTION – Continue to feed your elastic nearly all the way through the casing so it stops approximately 1 inch from the center back.

If you have your model available, don’t stitch down the other end of the elastic yet, pin it to the garment to hold it from slipping and we will fit it in a few steps time. 

If you don’t have a model available, baste the end of elastic in place approximately 1 inch from the raw edge 

Repeat with other back and elastic piece.

NOTE – The elastic will be held in place by the center back placket we will create in a few steps time. We will remove our basting stitches once we have secured the elastic. The elastic should not extend fully into the placket or it will be in the way of the buttons / snaps we will apply later. It should just poke inside enough to be able to secure it, but not so far it extends near the center of the placket.

NOTE – If you have not done basting stitches before, they are long loose stitches that we remove later. They are just for holding the elastic in place and will not be in the final garment. It is easier than pins as we will be stitching very close to them when we do the placket. Lengthen your stitch on your sewing machine to the longest setting. Do not backstitch at either end but instead leave the tails of the threads long so that you can use them later to pull the basting stitches out. Do not worry what these stitches look like as we will remove them after making the placket.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – For both the Front and Back Bodice pieces, serge each side separately using a ¼ inch seam allowance. With right sides together, stitch both Back Bodice pieces to the Front Bodice at the side seams using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowances towards the Front all the way from the top of the Front Bodice down to the hem. Skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams. The reason we will be doing French seams is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

With wrong sides of the fabric together, place the Front Bodice piece and one of the Back Bodice pieces together and pin the side seam ensuring the bottom edges are lined up. Stitch ¼ from the edge.

Carefully trim the seam allowance in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.

NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.

Turn the Bodice so right sides are facing and press the side seam. Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

TIP – Press the seam allowances to the side before turning the top inside out. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat to get a nice crisp edge for your French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.

Clip the Front Bodice side (¼ inch) at the top of the side seam you just created.

Do not clip all the way into the seam allowance, just ¼ inch in (halfway).

Press the seam allowance towards the Front.

NOTE – Normally you would press the seam allowance towards the Back. By pressing it towards the Front, in the next step you will be able to hide the little raw edge where the front side meets the back.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 with the other Back Bodice piece.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Front Bodice sides using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then follow the steps below.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Turn the Front Bodice sides under ½ inch and press. 

Fold the Front Bodice side seam allowance in half and tuck it under. Press. 

The seam allowance should now be folded under ¼ inch twice.

Make sure the French seam between the Front Bodice and Back Bodice is pressed towards the Front.

The raw edge from where the Front side meets the Back should now be hidden under the French seam.

Top stitch close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛ inch away). 

Continue your top stitching straight down ¾ inch onto the French seam. Your stitching should stop where the back casing stops. 

This will hold the seam allowance flat, give strength to this join, and keep that raw edge from popping out.

Turn the very top edge (neckline) of the top under ¼ inch and press.

Then turn under again ¾ inch, press, and top stitch in place.

Thread the Necktie through so there is an even amount of tie on both sides. Try on the top, gathering the fabric so it sits nicely. It should cover the collarbones but not extend out to the shoulders.

NOTE – Steps 4.6 and 4.7 are the same regardless of whether you are doing the regular necktie, or the wider babies’ necktie with Velcro fastening.

OPTIONAL – If you have a fabric that moves around and you would prefer it didn’t, stitch over the Necktie at both ends of the casing so the Necktie cannot move. Make sure to try the garment on first to check the fit before stitching the ties down.

If you are doing the Plain Back OPTION, skip to step 6. If you are doing the Button Placket, follow the steps below.

In this step, we will be creating a type of placket down the center back. If you have not done one of these before, it is simply the fabric folded over on itself to create a strong neat section of the garment where we can apply the center back fastenings.

If you are doing the top only, skip to step 5.3. If you are doing the romper, start at step 5.1.

ROMPER OPTION – We need to finish the end of the Placket where it meets the zipper on the pants.  Turn the Placket so right sides are facing. The fold should be where your interfacing ends, 1 ¼ inches from the raw edge. 

Mark ½ inch up from the bottom and ½ inch in from the Placket edge.  

Stitch along this square notch.  

Clip into the corner and turn right sides out. Clip close to the stitching, but not too close. We want to have this sit flat when we turn it through, but not so close to the stitching that it frays through.

Repeat steps 5.1 – 5.2 on the other Back Placket.

BOTH ROMPER AND TOP OPTIONS:

Turn the center back seam over ¼ inch and press. This is the small bit of fabric next to the raw edge which does not have interfacing on it.

If you haven’t basted your elastic yet, try it on and fit, then baste in place 1 inch from the edge. This will be approximately ¼ inch inside where the interfacing is.

NOTE – The interfacing is where our finished Placket will be. The elastic will only just poke into the finished Placket (it will go approximately ¼ inch into the Placket). Do not allow it to extend any further into the Placket or it will create bulk and the Placket will not sit flat.

Turn over again 1 inch and press.

Top stitch the Back Placket in place, making sure to catch the elastic in the stitching. Go over the stitching where the elastic catches a few times. 

Remove the basting stitches that were holding the elastic in place. 

Repeat on the other Back Bodice piece.

If you are doing the top version, follow the steps below. If you are doing the romper version, skip to step 7.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 6.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Turn the hem of the top under ½ inch and press.

Turn the hem under ½ inch again, press and topstitch approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edge.

Skip to step 13.

Fold one Front Leg right sides together, aligning the dart markings.

Start the top of the dart (at the raw edge) and stitch along the markings, creating the dart. 

When you come to the point / tip of the dart, do not backstitch but instead leave long thread tails.

Tie off the thread tails with several knots before snipping the thread.

NOTE – Tying the thread tails like this gives a much cleaner finish to the end of the dart. You can backstitch if you prefer, however it can leave a little lump at the end of the dart.

Press the darts toward the side seams.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for the other dart on the other Front Leg and both darts on the Back Legs.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides of the Front Legs together, serge the center front seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 9.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

With wrong sides of the fabric together, place the Front Legs together and pin the center front seam. Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half and carefully clip into the curve. 

TIP – The clipping will help the seam lay flat when finished but take care not to go too close to the seam when clipping. 

Turn right sides together, press, and stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

If you are using a knit / stretch fabric, place the two Back Legs right sides together. Using a ½ inch seam allowance, serge or stitch the back rise (the curved seam that goes from the crotch up over your bottom) and then finish the seam (if not using a serger). Skip to step 10.

If you are using a woven fabric, follow the steps below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the center back seam allowance on each Back Leg separately (do not remove any seam allowance). Follow steps 9.1 to 9.9. Press the remaining seam allowance below the zipper open. Then skip to step 10.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zip. If you use a regular zip, or don’t install the invisible zip correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished romper will be too big. To help with this, we’ve made a short video. 

Have a read through of the below and then watch the video here.

The video shows you steps 9.1 to 9.7. From step 9.8 onwards you will need to follow the tutorial below as normal.

Transfer the zipper end marking onto the back trouser pieces. This will be mark #1.

The zipper part should end at the marking, and the tails extend approximately 1 inch below the marking. 

Shorten your zipper if necessary, to match the zipper length indicated on the pattern markings. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack stitch several times over the zip to stop the zipper going below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zip to the other.

Mark the top point of the zipper closing with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker (see the bottom blue dot just by the top of the zip in the photo). This is where the trousers will end when you attach the top to the trousers. This is mark #2.

Measure ½ inch above your first marking and mark again (the top blue dot in the photo). This is where the top raw edge of the trousers will align before we attach them to the top. This is mark #3.

Place your invisible zipper right side up. Place your Back Legs either side.

Pin the left-hand side of your zip to your left Back Leg along the back rise (right sides together). 

The zipper coils (teeth) need to line up with the ½ inch seam allowance on the trouser back seam. The upper zipper stop (mark #2) should be ½ inch from top edge. Mark #3 should be aligned with the top raw edge of the trouser.

Place a pin at mark #1 on the trouser so you can see it when sewing the zip.

Sew as close to the zipper teeth as you can, preferably using an invisible zipper foot. Stop at mark #1 where the zipper ends on the pattern piece.

Place your left hand back piece right side up and turn the zipper so it is as it will be when finished. 

Place the right Back Leg right side up next to it.

Continue to rotate the right-hand side of the zipper all the way over so it is now face down on the right hand trouser back.

Repeat steps 9.4 to 9.5 for the right Back Leg piece and the other side of the zipper.

TIP – Take a moment once you have pinned the zipper to do it up and check everything aligns. Is the zipper the correct way up, are your left and right trouser pieces both facing the same way, do the zipper markings align with the trouser? Make any adjustments, then continue and stitch.

Fold the Back Legs right sides together, pulling the zipper tail out of the way and lining up the back rise.

Starting at the open end of the rise, stitch the rise together with a ½ inch seam allowance. Continue to the zipper and extend a few stitches past your stitches from inserting the zipper. 

These stitches may run ever so slightly in front of the other stitch line (1/16 to 1/8 inch).

We will finish the seam allowance under the zipper and seam allowance below the zipper separately.

From the wrong side of the garment, lift the zipper tail up and clip into the seam allowance on either side of the zipper base close to the stitching (approximately ⅛ inch away). This is where the yellow marking is in this photo.

For the section of the seam allowance under the zipper, fold each seam allowance in half towards the zipper tape (not underneath itself like usual, but with the seam allowance folded right sides together). 

Pin the seam allowance to the zipper.

Lay the zipper flat and check that the seam allowance is flat and not bunched anywhere.

Place both legs of the trousers together. Open the zipper so it is flat, and the other side of the zipper is away from the side you are working with.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, taking care that you do not catch the other side of the zipper tape or either of the trouser legs in your stitching.

Repeat steps 9.11 to 9.12 for the other side of the zipper tape and other seam allowance.

TIP – Use a walking foot if you have one for this and the rest of the stitching in this step. This foot helps control where you are stitching when sewing through thicker layers like this. Alternatively use your zipper foot if you do not have a walking foot.

There are two ways you could finish the seam below the zipper. You could either use bias tape to enclose the seam allowance, or you could use a “Faux French” finish. Bias tape is the easiest, however, it will create a slight bulk in the crotch seam which won’t be as comfortable while wearing the garment. The alternative is a faux French seam which is what we will do here. If you prefer to use the bias tape method, do this now.

To create the faux French seam, fold the raw edges of the seam allowance in towards the center, so each side of the seam allowance is folded in half right sides together. The raw edges should now be butted up against the zipper tape under the zipper, and meeting at the center back seam below the zipper.

Turn the outside folded edges of each side of the seam allowance into each other so they meet. Press. The seam will now look a little like a French seam, but there is no stitching yet. All the raw edges should now be enclosed.

Stitch close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛inch away). 

Make sure to keep the zipper, and rest of the trousers free. You are only stitching the two sides of the seam allowance together. This will secure the faux French seam and keep the raw edges hidden away. Press to the side.

Where you clipped into the seam allowance at the base of the zipper, tuck the top of the seam allowance over and stitch to the zipper tape (again, keeping the trousers free).

The trousers are designed to be fitted at the waist and hips. This means that while standing, they should be comfortable but not too loose or too tight, and while sitting they should be snug but not uncomfortably so. 

In a non-fitted garment (and most knit garments), you usually do not need to do much fitting. However, for this style (especially if you are using woven fabrics), I highly recommend you check and adjust the fit for your body shape to get the best result. If your body measurement is the maximum in each size range, it should fit well, but if you have had to blend sizes or are mid or low in your size range, you may need to adjust the side seams.

FIT CHECK –

1. If you haven’t already, check the finished garment measurements of the waist & hips against you or your model. If the trouser size you are doing is not fitted against your body, you may need to adjust the side seams to get a snug but comfortable fit…. Even if you have sewed this pattern several times, I recommend you do this fitting step each time as a woven fabric will sit differently to a knit, and different woven fabrics have different levels of give in them. 
2. Baste or clip the trouser front and back at the side seams and try on inside out.
3. Check the fit while standing and while sitting.
4. Clip or pin the side seams at the waist and hips to get the fit so you are happy with it. This may take a bit of playing with to get it right but the results for a personally fitted garment are well worth it. It’s like going to a personal tailor for a suit vs. buying one off the rack. You’ll be much more comfortable, and the garment will fit beautifully.
5. Take the trousers off again. If you have taken the side seams in, trim the side seams to your new line you pinned, leaving a half inch seam allowance. 
6. If you took the side seam in at the hip, continue your new cutting line straight down to the hem so the trouser leg falls straight down. Then continue below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION –

• If you are doing the Pockets, place a mirrored pair on the Front Leg side seams and the other pair on the Back Leg seams, with right sides together and lining up where the marking on the pattern piece indicates. Use a ½ inch seam allowance to serge a Pocket piece to each Front and Back side seam. Check that you have the mirrored pattern pieces matching when you put the fronts and backs together. Place the Front and Back Legs together, serging down each side seam and pivoting around the Pockets using a ½ inch seam allowance.
• If you are not doing the Pockets, place the Front and Back Legs right sides together and serge down each side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – If you are not doing the Pockets, skip to step 10.7. If you are doing the Pockets, we are going to join the Pockets to the trouser Legs using a French seam. 

Place one Pocket piece wrong sides together along the Front Leg side seam, aligning the top of the Pocket with the Pocket marking on the pattern piece.

Stitch the Pocket to the Front Leg using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half then turn, matching right sides together. Press.

Stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Snip the folded seam allowance at the top and bottom of the Pocket so the fabric lays flat (along the yellow line in the photo).

Open the Pocket out and press the seam allowance towards the Pocket.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.5 with the other 3 Pocket pieces. 

When you attach your Pockets to the Back Leg piece, check the alignment of the Pocket against the front by holding the Front and Back Legs together. The back Pocket needs to match up on the side seam with where you placed the front Pocket.

Now place the Front and Back Legs together, wrong sides facing, aligning the side seams and Pockets. 

POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and around the Pocket edge with a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

When you reach the join between the Pocket and the trouser, place your needle down, lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric. The place your presser foot back down and continue. This will give a neat, sharp corner.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Place Front and Back Legs wrong sides together and stitch each side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance. Clip into the corners where the Pocket meets the trousers. Again, clip close the seam but not all the way in (approximately ⅛ inch away).

TIP – For maximum control, use the very point of your scissors when you clip into the corners where the Pocket meets the trouser. It is harder to control the blade further down and easy to accidentally cut past the seam allowance. If you use the tip, you can do several small snips and get them exactly where you want them.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance.

Then turn, matching right sides together, and stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn right side out. 

POCKETS OPTION – Press Pockets towards the front.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides of the trousers together, serge the crotch seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 12.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Close the inseam with a French seam. Again, start with wrong sides together and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim, turn, and stitch again at ¼ inch.

NOTE – It can be quite difficult to press the trouser crotch seam, especially on the smaller sizes. Just press as much as you can. The very inside off the crotch can’t be seen on the finished garment so it doesn’t matter if you can’t get all the way in there. Often just pinching it with your fingertips is sufficient.

We are now going to gather the top and attach it to the trousers. If you are doing the knit version you will insert elastic around the waist, if you are doing the woven version you will have a zip at the center back and no need for elastic.

The sewing method varies a little depending on knit vs woven fabrics and the plain back or button placket. Follow the steps below, taking care to check which steps apply to your options & fabric.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 12.1. WOVEN VERSION: With right sides together, place the Bodice inside the trousers. Align the center fronts, side seams and center backs. Gather the top to fit the bottom. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Remove the gathering stitches. Serge the raw edges. Press the seam allowance up towards the top. Skip to step 13. KNIT VERSION: Follow from step 12.6. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to gather the Bodice and join it to the trousers using a French seam. Normally when sewing a gathered seam, you would not use a French seam as it ends up being too bulky with the folds and gathers. However, this gathering is not too thick, so it is possible to finish the seam in this way. If you prefer though you can gather and stitch right sides together, then finish the seam with bias tape. 

Using long straight gathering stitches, stitch 2 lines of gathering stitches along the bottom hem of the top.

Stitch your first line between ⅛ and ¼ inch from the edge, and your second line ⅜ inch from the edge.

If you haven’t done gathering stitches before, they are the same as basting stitches except you will use one thread to gather the fabric, sew the top to the trousers in between the two rows of gathering stitches, then remove the gathering stitches at the end. To do this, set your stitch length to be as long as possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Leave the tails of the threads long as you will need them to remove the stitching later. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension. 

TIP – You can gather using just one row of gathering stitches, however I find that I get the most even gathers by having two rows. It means when we stitch the top to the bottom in the next steps that there will be a row of stitches either side of the stitching.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This makes gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads I find I have!

If you are sewing a KNIT VERSION, skip to step 12.6. If you are sewing a WOVEN VERSION, follow below.

To stitch with the French seam finish, fold the hem of the top in half to identify the center front. Mark with a pin or clip.

Slip the Bodice inside the bottom, aligning the raw edges wrong sides together. 

Align the front center of the Bodice with the front rise. Align the side seams. 

Match the folded edge of the finished notch on the Placket with the zipper edge. The Placket above the notch will protrude past the edge. This is correct as the Placket will then be centered above the zip when the garment is done up.

Find each pair of bobbin threads at either end of the gathering stitches and one pair at a time, very gently pull on both equally to gather the Bodice. 

Gather the Bodice all the way around until the Bodice fits the trousers. Adjust the gathers with your fingers so they are evenly spaced.

With the Bodice on top and the trousers underneath, stitch the Bodice and trousers together with ¼ inch seam allowance, adjusting gathers, as necessary. Your stitching should be in between your two rows of gathering stitches.

Do not remove the gathering stitches yet.

Trim the seam allowance in half. 

Fold the Bodice and trousers right sides together. Press.

Keeping the Bodice and trousers right sides together, stitch the seam again using a ¼ inch seam allowance, completing the French seam joining the Bodice and bottom of the romper.

Remove your gathering stitches.

Open the Bodice and trousers out. Press the seam up towards the Bodice.

Skip to step 13.1.

KNIT FABRIC WITH PLAIN BACK OR BUTTON PLACKET –

BUTTON PLACKET ONLY – Place the Plackets one on top of the other as if the Bodice was done up (so the Bodice forms a circle). Pin or clip together at the hem to hold in place.

ALL VERSIONS – Fold the hem of the Bodice in half to identify the center front and center back. Mark with a pin or clip (note for the button Placket the center back should be in the center of the overlapped back Placket).

Slip the Bodice inside the bottom, aligning the raw edges with right sides together. 

Align the center front of the Bodice with the front rise. Align the side seams. Align the center back of the Bodice with the back rise.

Find each pair of bobbin threads at either end of the gathering stitches and one pair at a time, very gently pull on both equally to gather the Bodice. 

Gather the Bodice all the way around until the Bodice fits the trousers. Adjust the gathers with your fingers so they are evenly spaced.

Stitch with a stretch stitch on a sewing machine using a ¾ inch seam allowance (do not use a serger / overlocker).

We will now create a casing for the elastic within this seam allowance. 

Leaving a 1-inch gap to insert your elastic later, either serge, or use a zig zag or finishing stitch on your sewing machine the raw edges together. Do not remove any of the large seam allowance, you are just sealing the raw edges to create a tunnel for the elastic. 

Using a safety pin, insert your waist elastic into this gap, thread it all the way around the waist. Overlap the elastic by ½ inch either end (1 inch in total) and pin or clip together.

FIT CHECK – Try the pants on and check the elastic is comfortable but snug. Adjust the elastic if needed.

Stitch the elastic ends together and let them slip back inside the casing.

Stitch the gap in the casing closed.

Press the casing down away from the Bodice and pin in place.

Stitch the finished edge of the casing down onto the trousers. 

If you are doing the Plain Back Romper, skip to step 14.1.  If you are doing the Button Placket Top or Romper, follow the step below.

Apply either snaps or buttons and buttonholes. Traditionally, tops for girls and women close with the left side of the Placket overlying the right.

If you are doing the top version, your top is now complete. If you are doing the romper version, continue to step 14.

FIT CHECK – Try the romper on and check for hem length. If you are doing the plain hem option, the hem will be 1½ inches. If you are doing the ankle elastic hem option, the hem will be 1 inch. Make any adjustments you prefer and then continue.

NOTE – This step is the same regardless of which length option you are doing.

SERGER OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 14.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Turn the hem of each trouser leg under ½ inch and press.

PLAIN HEM OPTION – Turn the hem of each trouser leg under another 1 inch and press.

ANKLE ELASTIC OPTION – Turn the hem of each trouser leg under another ½ inch and press. This will be our casing for the ankle elastic.

PLAIN HEM OPTION – Stitch all the way around the hem close to the edge (approx. ⅛ inch from the fold). Your romper is now complete.

ANKLE ELASTIC OPTION – Stitch most of the way around the hem close to the edge (approximately ⅛ inch from the fold). Leave a gap of approximately 1 inch to insert the elastic later on.

ANKLE ELASTIC OPTION – Thread the elastic into the hem, leaving the end of the elastic hanging out through the small opening you left.

TIP – I like to pin one end of the elastic to the romper, so it doesn’t slip inside.

TIP – I often use a safety pin or bodkin to insert my elastic through.

Thread the elastic all the way through until it comes back to the beginning and bring it out through the hole.

Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch and pin. Stitch the ends of the elastic together using a zigzag stitch several times over the width of the elastic. Let the elastic slip back inside the hem when you are finished.

Stitch the gap in the casing closed.