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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children’s City Joggers
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
The City Joggers are loose-fitting and super comfy, yet fashionable. You’ll love the elasticated waistband with optional drawstring, and other pattern options! You can choose to have elasticated ankle cuffs for classic joggers or open ankles for a wide-legged look. You can also choose to add optional side trim and side seam pockets.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size and blending – Choose your size using the waist measurements from the size chart. If your measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to your waist measurement and grade out to the hip of the size you need. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your waist measurement to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the hem using your hip measurement size.
- Childs height adjustment – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Measure your inseam. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of the leg. Compare this measurement to the finished inseam measurement above, to help make adjustments for height.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork, for back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork.
- If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start!
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Fitted pants can be a bit of an art but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front and back legs, clip or pin together at the waist and try on.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 1-inch wide Elastic – approximately ½ yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Trim – If you would like to add a side stripe to the Pants, we recommend either a 2 or 1 ½ inch wide Trim, approximately 2 ½ yards should be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL 5mm wide Drawstring – approximately ½ yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL 2x Toggles – These can be added onto the ends of the drawstring instead of knotting them.
- OPTIONAL 2x 6mm Eyelets/Grommets – You can use these instead of sewing buttonholes.
- OPTIONAL Wonder Under Tape – approximately 1 yard should be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match.
- Front Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Waistband – Cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Trim – Cut 2
Project OverviewCeline Trousers
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Celine pants are loose fitting and super comfy, with an elasticated waistband to cinch in the waist and elasticated cuffs at the ankle. Add optional side trim and optional drawstring for an on trend and sporty vibe.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Length
Calf
Back rise
Front rise
Inseam
0 – 3 mos
15.0
22.6
18.0
11.0
8.0
4.7
12.4
3 – 6 mos
15.5
23.1
19.3
11.1
8.3
5.1
13.4
6 – 12 mos
16.0
24.3
20.6
11.1
8.6
5.1
14.5
12 – 18 mos
17.5
25.0
22.1
11.3
9.1
5.3
15.4
18 – 24 mos
18.5
26.1
23.3
11.5
9.3
5.6
16.5
2 – 3 yrs
19.0
28.1
23.0
12.1
9.4
6.0
17.0
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
29.2
25.7
12.1
10.0
6.3
18.0
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
30.2
28.4
12.2
10.5
7.0
20.2
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
30.7
30.2
13.0
11.1
7.3
21.4
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
31.6
31.1
13.1
11.6
8.1
22.1
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
33.2
32.9
13.2
12.2
8.4
23.0
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsFabric – For a soft and drapey look, light to medium weight woven fabric such as cotton, linen, rayon, and crepe de chine are good choices. If you choose a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the trousers more structure.
The trousers are also suitable for light to medium weight knit/stretch fabrics such as jersey. As these pants are designed for woven, your knit fabric only needs a low percentage stretch to comfortably get the garment on and off.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Trousers
0 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 6 yrs
1.25
5 – 8 yrs
2.00
9 – 12 yrs
2.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Trousers
0 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 6 yrs
1.25
5 – 8 yrs
2.00
9 – 12 yrs
2.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pants OPTIONAL Trim OPTIONAL Pocket
OPTIONAL Ankle elastic guide 0 – 6 mos 2-9 11-13 8 5 6 – 18 mos 2-11 11-13 8 5 18 – 24 mos 2-12 11-13 8 5 2 – 3 yrs 10-21, 24-25 15, 19, 23 11 19, 23 3 – 12 yrs 10-25 15, 19, 23 11 19, 23 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Pants OPTIONAL Trim OPTIONAL Pockets
OPTIONAL Ankle Elastic Guide 0 – 12 mos 2-9 5, 9 8 8 12 – 24 mos 2 – 11 5, 9 8 8 2 – 12 yrs 10 – 24 11, 15, 19 10-11 15, 19 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Waistband
(Cut 1)1-inch-wide Elastic
OPTIONAL 1 ½ – 2-inch wide Trim
(Cut 2)Waistband
(Cut 1)Cuff
(Cut 2)Width
Length
Length
Length
Length
0 – 3 mos
4.5
22.6
15.0
7.5
16.0
3 – 6 mos
4.5
24.0
16.0
8.0
17.0
6 – 12 mos
4.5
25.0
16.5
8.5
19.0
12 – 18 mos
4.5
26.0
17.5
9.0
20.0
18 – 24 mos
4.5
27.0
18.5
9.5
21.0
2 – 3 yrs
4.5
27.1
19.0
10.0
21.0
3 – 4 yrs
4.5
28.4
20.0
10.0
24.0
5 – 6 yrs
4.5
29.2
21.0
10.5
26.0
7 – 8 yrs
4.5
30.4
22.0
10.5
28.0
9 – 10 yrs
4.5
31.4
23.0
11.0
29.0
11 – 12 yrs
4.5
32.4
24.0
11.0
31.0
Cutting Checklist:NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- STAYSTICH – Stitch each of the Front and Back Legs at the waist, starting at the front rise seam.
- OPTIONAL BUTTONHOLES – If you are adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring, transfer buttonhole markings for the Waistband onto the fabric.
- OPTIONAL INTERFACING – If you are adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring, apply interfacing to the Waistband where the buttonhole markings are.
- OPTIONAL WONDER-UNDER TAPE – Apply Wonder-Under to Trim.
- OPTIONAL POCKETS – Stitch each Pocket to each side of the Front Legs and Back Legs at pattern markings using a French seam.
- SIDE SEAMS – Sew the side seam using French Seams, with wrong sides together match the Front Leg and Back Leg, sew the side seam, trim seam allowance, turn and press, sew again, turn right side out and press.
- OPTIONAL TRIM – Center the Trim on the side seam, pinning in place. Starting at the waistband edge, sew down the back side edge of the Trim ¼ inch from the edge. Starting at the waistband edge again, sew down the front side edge of the Trim.
- RISE – Sew the Front Rise and Back Rise using French seams.
- INSEAM – Sew the Inseam using a French seam.
- WAISTBAND – Sew buttonholes. On opposite side of buttonholes fold the waistband toward wrong side ½ inch, press. Fold waistband in half lengthwise, press. Sew short edges together, press seam open. Line up the unfolded edge of the Waistband, right sided together with Joggers, sew and press seam allowance. Refold the Waistband, pin the inside of the Waistband along the waist seam. Stitch in the ditch to attach the waistband, leaving a gap for the elastic. Insert elastic, sew elastic into a circle and close gap in the waistband.
- OPTIONAL DRAWSTRING – Sew ½ inch from top edge of Waistband. Then, using a 1 ¼ inch seam allowance starting a ½ inch from the waist seam. Insert the Drawstring into the waistband. For the child’s drawstring, stitch over the drawstring at the center front of the Waistband. Tie the Drawstring into a bow or a knot.
- ELASTIC HEM – Press the hem of the Joggers, ¼ inch and again 1 ¼ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch leaving a gap. Insert elastic into the gap. Sew elastic into a circle, then sew gap closed. Repeat for second leg.
- OPTIONAL HEM – Press the hem of the Joggers, ¼ inch and again 1 ¼ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch. Repeat for second leg.
Quick Glance Cheat SheetPreparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Staystitch
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, and wearing the garment. If you don’t staystitch, the waist is likely to stretch during construction and, then, the waistband won’t fit properly when you try to attach it. Directional stay stitching (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting while we sew the rest of the garment. We will staystitch using a regular length straight stitch and stay inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Stitch each of the Front and Back Legs at the waist, starting at the front rise seam and stitching in the direction of the arrows.
0.2OPTIONAL Buttonholes
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring cord, transfer the buttonhole markings from the Waistband pattern piece to the Waistband.
ALTERNATIVE: If you would prefer to use eyelets/grommets instead of buttonholes, add these now using the manufacturer’s instructions.
0.3OPTIONAL Interfacing
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring cord, use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing to the Waistband where the buttonhole markings are.
0.4OPTIONAL Wonder-Under Tape
Apply Wonder-Under Tape to the Trim pieces per manufacturer’s directions.
1 . OPTIONAL Pockets1.0NOTE – Optional Pocket is NOT COMPATIBLE with the OPTIONAL Trim.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Pocket right sides together to the side seam of the Front Leg 1 inch down of the top edge. Follow step 1.7. Then, press the seam allowance towards the Pocket. Repeat to attach the second Pocket to the other side. Repeat to attach a Pocket to each Back Leg.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
1.1Place a Pocket piece wrong sides together (right sides out) onto one side of the Front Leg, 1 inch down from the top edge.
1.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim the seam allowance in half along the Pocket section of the raw edge only. DO NOT trim all the way down the Front Leg side seam.
1.4Open the Pocket up and press the seam allowance towards the Pocket.
1.5Flip the Pocket over so the right sides are together and press well along the seam.
1.6Stitch again along the edge of the Pocket using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.7There will now be a little fold on the top and bottom of the Pocket.
Snip this piece parallel to the top of the Pocket, and even with the edge, so that the fabric will lay flat. Don’t cut past the Pocket.
1.8Flip the Pocket over and press the seam well.
TIP – Understitch along the Pocket and Front Leg seam. This will hide the raw edges and catch the seam allowance, so it all lays flat in the finished garment. To do this, keep the Pocket piece flipped away from the Front Leg. Edge stitch between ⅛ and ¼ inch from the seam line.
1.9Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.8 to attach a Pocket to the other side of the Front Leg.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.8 to attach a Pocket to each Back Leg piece.
2 . Side Seams2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Using a regular sewing machine first, with right sides together, sew the Front Leg to Back Leg along the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then finish the edges on the serger. Skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our trouser. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
2.1With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Front Leg and the Back Leg together along the side seam.
2.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.3Carefully trim the seam allowance in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
2.4Turn the Leg so the right sides are facing, press the side seam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.
TIP – Press the seam allowances toward the back before turning the trouser right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
2.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Press the seam allowance towards the Back Leg.
2.6Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the other Front and Back Leg.
3 . OPTIONAL Trim3.0If you are not adding optional trim skip to step 4. If you are adding optional trim, follow below.
3.1With a Leg piece right sides facing up, center the Trim over the side seam. Pin.
TIP – To help keep the Trim in place while sewing, apply Wonder-Under Tape to the Trim instead of pinning.
3.2Starting at the waist, topstitch ¼ inch from the edge of the Trim, along the Back Leg.
3.3Repeat step 3.2 along the Front Leg.
TIP – Sew both seams from the waist down to the hem. It might be a bit awkward under the machine, but it will prevent waviness and shifting that can happen when sewing in opposite directions.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the other Leg and Trim piece.
3 . Rise3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Using a regular sewing machine first, with right sides together, sew the left Front Leg and right Front leg along the rise seam, using a ½ inch seam allowance. Finish the edges on the serger. Repeat for back rise seam. Then skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Continue below.
3.1The front rise is also sewn using a French seam.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5. With the wrong sides together, pin the left Leg to the right Leg along the front rise.
Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
3.2Repeat step 4.1 to stitch the back rise.
5 . Inseam5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Using a regular sewing machine first, with the right sides together, sew the Front Leg to the Back Leg along the inseam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Finish the edges on the serger. Then skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Continue below.
5.1The inseam is also sewn using a French seam.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5. With the wrong sides together, pin the Front Leg to the Back Leg all the way from one hem, up to the rise, then down to the other hem.
Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
6 . Waistband6.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring, skip to step 6.2. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring start at step 6.1 to stitch the buttonholes.
6.1OPTIONAL DRAWSTRING: You will need to stitch buttonholes to thread the drawstring through.
Using the settings on your machine, stitch buttonholes onto the Waistband at the pattern markings.
NOTE – For sizes 0-24 months we do not recommend adding Drawstring due to safety with cords.
6.2With the Waistband wrong sides facing up, fold one long edge ½ inch to the wrong side. If you have used directional fabric, make sure this is the top edge. Press.
NOTE – If you have stitched buttonholes for the OPTIONAL Drawstring, you will be pressing the opposite long edge.
6.3Unfold the pressed edge. Fold the Waistband in half, length wise, wrong sides together, matching raw edges. Press.
6.4Unfold the pressed edge. Match the short edges, right sides together. Pin.
6.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.6Press the seam allowance open.
6.7Find and mark the quarter points of the Waistband.
6.8Find and mark the quarter points of the Joggers.
6.9Place the Waistband onto the Joggers, right sides together, matching the unfolded edge of the Waistband to the Joggers. Pin.
6.10Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.11Press the seam allowance up towards the Waistband.
6.12Fold the Waistband at the pressed center line from step 6.3.
Press again if needed.
6.13Pin along the Waistband. Making sure to catch the seam allowances inside as you pin. The raw edges should all be hidden.
TIP – Pin from the right side of the Pants along the seam between the Pants and the Waistband. Flip it over to check as you go.
6.14We are going to ‘stitch in the ditch’. This is where you stitch exactly on top of a previous seam. You will just catch the other side of the waistband in your stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden. The stitching won’t easily be visible in the finished garment.
From the right side of the Pants, stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and Pants flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Pants. Occasionally, lift the pants up to check that the stitching is catching the other side of the Waistband.
Leave a 3-inch gap along the back edge to insert the elastic.
TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction onto the Pants instead of the Waistband. This usually ends up fairly invisible.
ALTERNATIVE – If you would prefer, you can topstitch on the Waistband with an ⅛ inch seam allowance.
6.15Insert the elastic through the gap left in step 6.12 and pull it through the Waistband.
TIP – Pin the opposite end of elastic to the pants while threading it through the Waistband so it doesn’t get pulled inside.
6.16Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the Waistband.
Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their waist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their waist and will hold up the pants, before continuing to the next step.
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic.
6.17Pull the elastic inside the Waistband.
6.18Using the same method as step 6.12, close the gap where the elastic was inserted.
7 . OPTIONAL Drawstring7.0If you are not adding the optional drawstring skip to step 8. If you are adding the optional drawstring, follow below.
For sizes 0 – 24 months we do not recommend adding Drawstring due to safety with cords.
7.1Using pins, a washable marker, or the guide on the sewing machine, mark ½ inch from the top edge of the Waistband, all the way around.
7.2While holding the elastic taut, but not stretching the Waistband, topstitch around the entire Waistband using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.3Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 using 1 ¼ inch seam allowance from the top edge, starting ½ inch from the waist seam. This will create the casing for the Drawstring.
7.4Tie a knot in one end of the Drawstring.
NOTE – If you prefer to use toggles at the end of the Drawstring add one here now.
7.5Insert the knotted end of the Drawstring into the casing created in the Waistband.
TIP – Pin the opposite end of the Drawstring to the pants while threading it through the casing, so it doesn’t get pulled inside.
NOTE – For safety, the Drawstring is decorative and is inserted only along the front edge, between the two buttonholes.
7.6Cut to the desired length. Tie a knot in the other end of the Drawstring.
NOTE – If you are adding toggles to the end, add the other toggle here.
7.7Center the Drawstring in-between the buttonholes. Stitch over the Drawstring at the center front of the Waistband to secure.
7.8Tie the Drawstring in a bow or a knot.
8 . Elastic Hem8.0If you are not doing the elastic hem, skip to step 9. If you are doing the elastic hem, follow below.
8.1Press the hem edge of the Leg ¼ inch to the wrong side.
8.2Press again 1 ¼ inch to the wrong side.
8.3Topstitch close to the folded edge, leaving a 2-inch gap to insert the elastic.
8.4Insert the elastic through the 2-inch gap from step 8.3 and pull it through the elastic casing.
TIP – Pin the opposite end of the elastic to the pants while threading it through the elastic casing so it doesn’t get pulled inside.
8.5Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the casing.
Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their cuff. Check that it will sit comfortably around their ankle, before continuing to the next step. It should not be too loose or too tight. Adjust to your personal fit.
8.6Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.
8.7Pull the elastic inside the casing. Pin the 2-inch gap closed.
8.8Topstitch close to the folded edge, closing the gap where the elastic was inserted.
8.9Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.8 to hem the second Leg.
Your City Joggers are finished!
9 . OPTIONAL Hem9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the bottom edge without removing any fabric. Press ¾ inch to the wrong side. Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:
9.1Fold ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.
9.2Press again ½ inch to the wrong side.
9.3Topstitch close to the folded edge, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Your City Joggers are finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Celine Trousers are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpcelinetrousers.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewCeline Trousers
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Celine pants are loose fitting and super comfy, with an elasticated waistband to cinch in the waist and elasticated cuffs at the ankle. Add optional side trim and optional drawstring for an on trend and sporty vibe.
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Length
Calf
Back rise
Front rise
Inseam
0 – 3 mos
15.0
22.6
18.0
11.0
8.0
4.7
12.4
3 – 6 mos
15.5
23.1
19.3
11.1
8.3
5.1
13.4
6 – 12 mos
16.0
24.3
20.6
11.1
8.6
5.1
14.5
12 – 18 mos
17.5
25.0
22.1
11.3
9.1
5.3
15.4
18 – 24 mos
18.5
26.1
23.3
11.5
9.3
5.6
16.5
2 – 3 yrs
19.0
28.1
23.0
12.1
9.4
6.0
17.0
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
29.2
25.7
12.1
10.0
6.3
18.0
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
30.2
28.4
12.2
10.5
7.0
20.2
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
30.7
30.2
13.0
11.1
7.3
21.4
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
31.6
31.1
13.1
11.6
8.1
22.1
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
33.2
32.9
13.2
12.2
8.4
23.0
Materials and ToolsFabric – For a soft and drapey look, light to medium weight woven fabric such as cotton, linen, rayon, and crepe de chine are good choices. If you choose a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the trousers more structure.
The trousers are also suitable for light to medium weight knit/stretch fabrics such as jersey. As these pants are designed for woven, your knit fabric only needs a low percentage stretch to comfortably get the garment on and off.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Trousers
0 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 6 yrs
1.25
5 – 8 yrs
2.00
9 – 12 yrs
2.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Trousers
0 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 6 yrs
1.25
5 – 8 yrs
2.00
9 – 12 yrs
2.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1-inch wide Elastic – approximately ½ yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Trim – If you would like to add a side stripe to the Pants, we recommend either a 2 or 1 ½ inch wide Trim, approximately 2 ½ yards should be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL 5mm wide Drawstring – approximately ½ yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL 2x Toggles – These can be added onto the ends of the drawstring instead of knotting them.
- OPTIONAL 2x 6mm Eyelets/Grommets – You can use these instead of sewing buttonholes.
- OPTIONAL Wonder Under Tape – approximately 1 yard should be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match.
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, serger/overlocker is optional but not required.