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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children's Classic Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
A childrens classic dress sewing pattern for every occasion! Sew this pretty, iconic style with your favorite wovens for a beautiful dress that features a timeless silhouette, optional pockets, three sleeve lengths, and an optional overlay and decorative bow. Includes sizes 12mo-12yrs
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to your chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out or in to the correct waist and hip sizes.
- Grading –Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different, so we have a few suggestions to help achieve a great fitting garment:
- If your model falls between sizes, you will start with the size bracket with the correct chest measurement. This will give a better upper body fit.
- If your child falls into different size brackets for chest and waist, draw a smooth curve from the chest out to the correct size bracket for the waistline, making the same adjustments to the top of the skirt.
- NOTE – If you make an adjustment for the waistline, make sure to adjust the waistband as well.
- If your child falls into a different size for height, use the bodice length and skirt length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together so the armhole height, top and bottom of the bodice and skirt pieces use the size bracket from their height measurement.
- Length – The length on the skirt has been tested to be approximately accurate for the tallest child, within each size bracket, as per the size chart. If you’d prefer to know exactly how long you want your skirt before cutting into your fabric, please make a muslin as below and mark your preferred length on your pattern piece, plus a ½ inch hem allowance.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this dress:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut out the following and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen: Front and Back Bodice and Skirts. Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 1x Invisible zipper:
- 12 – 18 mos: 10 inches
- 2 – 4 yrs: 12 inches
- 5 – 6 yrs: 14 inches
- 7 – 12 yrs: 16 inches
- Unlined Bodice OPTION:
- Interfacing – approximately 0.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- ¼ inch wide Double fold bias binding – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Front Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- NOTE – Use the lower neckline when cutting the Lining
- Back Bodice – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back Bodice – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Facing – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Back Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Waist Binding – see cut chart above
- Sleeveless OPTION – see cut chart above for bias binding lengths
- NOTE – If you are sewing a lined Bodice with Short Sleeves, see cut chart above for binding lengths
- Front Skirt – Fabric cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Overlay cut 1 on fold
- Back Skirt – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Overlay cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
-
- NOTE – You can only add Pockets to a skirt without the Overlay.
-
- Bow – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Bow Center – Fabric cut 1
Project OverviewClassic Dress
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This beautiful bodice is fitted just above the natural waist. The bodice can be lined or finished without lining and is finished with an invisible zipper. There are three sleeve options; sleeveless, cap or short. The skirt is gathered and finishes at the knee. Add either optional pockets or an overlay to the skirt. There is also an optional bow and waistband. Mix and match options to create lots of dresses from just one pattern.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Lengths
Chest
Waist
Center back to waist
Skirt
Cap sleeve
Short sleeve
Short sleeve hem circum
ference
12 – 18 mos
19.5
20.0
4.2
11.5
1.5
3.6
6.0
18 – 24 mos
20.5
21.0
5.0
13.0
1.6
4.0
6.1
2 – 3 yrs
22.5
22.5
5.7
14.2
1.7
4.5
7.0
3 – 4 yrs
23.5
23.5
6.5
16.5
2.0
5.0
7.5
5 – 6 yrs
25.5
24.5
8.3
18.7
2.3
6.0
8.2
7 – 8 yrs
27.5
25.5
9.6
20.2
2.6
6.3
9.0
9 – 10 yrs
28.5
26.5
10.3
21.2
3.0
6.7
9.5
11 – 12 yrs
30.5
27.5
10.7
22.5
3.3
7.0
10.1
Fitting NotesThe bodice is fitted to give more shape. The gathered skirt starts just above the natural waist.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – The exterior of the dress can be made from nearly any medium weight woven fabric. If you use a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the dress more structure. Some great suggestions are duchess satin, crepe satin, cotton drill, cotton lawn, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton or polycotton. If you use a fabric with a print or nap such as velvet, remember to cut all pieces in the same direction and to allow extra fabric for this.
OPTIONAL Lining fabric – If you are lining the inside of the bodice, you will need a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin. If your main fabric is not too thick, you could also use this for the lining.
OPTIONAL Skirt overlay fabric – The overlay sits over the main skirt and should be sheer. Great suggestions are lace, tulle, or chiffon.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Unlined bodice
Lined bodice
OPTIONAL Sleeves
Skirt
OPTIONAL Skirt overlay
OPTIONAL Bow
OPTIONAL Waistband
Main
Lining
All one fabric
Cap
Short
12 – 18 mos
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.00
1.00
0.25
0.25
2 – 4 yrs
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.00
1.00
0.25
0.25
5 – 10 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.25
1.25
0.25
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.50
1.50
0.25
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Unlined bodice Lined bodice
OPTIONAL Sleeves
Skirt OPTIONAL Skirt overlay
OPTIONAL Waistband
OPTIONAL Bow
Main
Lining
All one fabric
Cap
Short
12 – 24 mos
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.50
0.25
0.25
2 – 4 yrs
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.25
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.25
7 – 12 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.00
1.00
0.25
0.25
NOTE – If you are using the same fabric for all pieces, you will probably use less fabric. We have listed all pieces separately so that you can mix and match fabrics.
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk, optional washaway tape, zipper foot or invisible zipper foot. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Unlined bodice Lined bodice Skirt OPTIONAL Cap sleeve
OPTIONAL Short sleeve
OPTIONAL Pockets OPTIONAL Bow OPTIONAL Waistband 12 – 24 mos 8-12,15 8-11 3-4, 6-7, 13-14, 16-17 11 18-19 20 12-14 16-17 2 – 3 yrs 8-12,15 8-11 3-4, 6-7, 13-14, 16-17 11 18-19 20 12-14 16-17 3 – 12 yrs 8-12,15 8-11 2-7, 12-17 11 18-19 20 12-14 16-17 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Unlined bodice Lined bodice Skirt OPTIONAL Cap sleeve
OPTIONAL Short sleeve
OPTIONAL Pockets OPTIONAL Bow OPTIONAL Waistband 12 – 18 mos 9-11 8-11 3-8, 13-18 18 16-17 19 12-13 14-15 18 mos – 3 yrs 8-11 8-11 3-8, 13-18 18 16-17 19 12-13 14-15 3 – 10 yrs 8-11 8-11 2-8, 12-18 18 16-17 19 12-13 14-15 11-12 yrs 8-11 8-11 2-8, 12-18 18 16-17 19 12-13 14-15 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, except for binding. However, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below.
Lined bodice: short sleeve OPTION (cut 2 on bias)
Unlined bodice: cap sleeve OPTION (cut 2 on bias)
Unlined bodice: waist binding (cut 1 on bias)
Unlined bodice: sleeveless (cut 2 bias binding)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
1.5
7.6
1.5
7.6
1.5
21.3
1.5
6.6
18 – 24 mos
1.5
8.0
1.5
8.0
1.5
22.1
1.5
7.0
2 – 3 yrs
1.5
8.7
1.5
8.7
1.5
23.6
1.5
8.0
3 – 4 yrs
1.5
9.5
1.5
9.5
1.5
24.6
1.5
8.4
5 – 6 yrs
1.5
10.3
1.5
10.3
1.5
25.6
1.5
9.2
7 – 8 yrs
1.5
11.0
1.5
11.0
1.5
26.6
1.5
10.0
9 – 10 yrs
1.5
11.5
1.5
11.5
1.5
27.6
1.5
10.3
11 – 12 yrs
1.5
12.2
1.5
12.2
1.5
28.6
1.5
11.0
OPTIONAL Bow
Front skirt
(Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Overlay cut 1)
Back skirt (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Overlay cut 2)
Bow (cut 1)
Bow center (cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 24 mos
13.0
8.0
4.0
5.0
23.0
12.7
12.0
12.7
2 – 3 yrs
13.0
8.0
4.0
5.0
23.3
13.7
12.1
13.7
3 – 4 yrs
13.2
8.0
4.0
5.0
24.1
15.3
12.5
15.3
5 – 6 yrs
13.4
8.0
4.0
5.0
24.6
17.5
12.7
17.5
7 – 8 yrs
13.6
8.0
4.0
5.0
25.1
19.7
13.0
19.7
9 – 10 yrs
13.8
8.0
4.0
5.0
25.6
21.2
13.2
21.2
11 – 12 yrs
14.0
8.0
4.0
5.0
26.1
22.2
13.5
22.2
Cutting Checklist:
Lined Bodice:
Unlined Bodice:
OPTIONAL Cap Sleeve– Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
OPTIONAL Short Sleeve– Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
Skirt:
OPTIONAL Pockets – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
OPTIONAL Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold
OPTIONAL Bow:NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – UNLINED BODICE: Apply interfacing to Front and Back Facing.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Follow our free tutorial to make your own bias binding.
- SHOULDERS – Stitch shoulders of Bodice together using a French seam.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch side seams of Bodice together using a French seam.
- FACING – Stitch Front and Back Facing together using a French seam. Fold outer edge of Facing ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat. Topstitch. Mark center of Facing and Bodice neckline. Open Bodice flat, right side facing up. Place Facing down, right sides together, matching center front and shoulder seams. Pin at shoulder seams only. Continue pinning. Stitch. Press seam allowance up towards Facing. Understitch neckline seam allowance to Facing.
- CAP SLEEVES OPTION – Fold Cap Sleeve hem ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat. Topstitch. If gathering – stitch gathering stitches between notches. Mark center of Cap Sleeve. Place Cap Sleeve inside Bodice, right sides together, matching center of Sleeve to shoulder seam and ends of Sleeve to pattern markings on front and back Bodice. Pin. Stitch. Turn Bodice right side out. Finish raw edges using Hong Kong method. Repeat for other Cap Sleeve.
- SHORT SLEEVES OPTION – Stitch sleeve seams of Short Sleeves using a French seam. Place Short Sleeve inside Bodice, right sides together, matching center of Sleeve to shoulder seam and sleeve seam to side seam. Pin. Stitch. Turn Bodice right side out. Fold Short Sleeve hem ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again by 1 inch. Press. Topstitch. Press seam. Finish raw edges using Hong Kong method. Repeat for the other Short Sleeve.
- SLEEVELESS OPTION – Finish raw edges of armscyes with double fold bias binding.
LINED BODICE OPTION:
- SHOULDERS – Lay Front Lining right side up. Place Back Lining down, right sides together, matching shoulders. Stitch. Press seam open. Repeat for Main Front and Back Bodice pieces.
- CAP SLEEVES OPTION – Fold Cap Sleeve hem ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat. Topstitch. Mark center of Cap Sleeve. Lay Main Bodice right side up. Place Cap Sleeve onto Bodice, right sides together, matching center of Cap Sleeve to shoulder seam. Pin. Stitch. Fold Cap Sleeve inside Main Bodice, right sides together. Repeat for other Cap Sleeve.
- SHORT SLEEVES OPTION – Stitch Main Bodice right sides together at side seams. Repeat with the Bodice Lining. Stitch sleeve seams of Short Sleeves using a French seam. Place Short Sleeve inside Bodice, right sides together, matching center of Sleeve to shoulder seam and sleeve seam to side seam. Pin. Baste. Turn Bodice right side out. Fold Short Sleeve hem ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again by 1 inch. Press. Topstitch. Press seam. Repeat for the other Short Sleeve.
- ASSEMBLE BODICE – SLEEVELESS/CAP SLEEVE OPTION: With Bodice and Lining right sides together, pin, stitch neckline and armholes. Clip seam allowance. Turn right side out and press. SHORT SLEEVE OPTION – With Bodice and Lining right sides together, pin, stitch neckline. Clip seam allowance. Turn wrong sides together and press. Stitch armscyes together. Finish raw edges using Hong Kong method. Turn right side out and press.
- SIDE SEAMS – CAP SLEEVE AND SLEEVELESS OPTIONS: Pin Bodice right sides together, lift both Linings, pin so there will be a long seam from Lining waist to Bodice waist. Stitch. Repeat for the other side seam.
SKIRT:
- OPTIONAL POCKETS – Stitch each Pocket to each side of the Front Skirt and Back Skirts at pattern markings using a French seam.
- SKIRT – Stitch Front and Back Skirt together using a French seam. SKIRT OVERLAY OPTION: Repeat with Overlay Front and Back Skirt pieces.
- ATTACH BODICE TO SKIRT – Gather stitch top of Skirt. Mark center. Gather gently. SKIRT OVERLAY OPTION: Repeat with Overlay Skirt. Baste Overlay onto Skirt, right sides facing up, matching side seams and center points. LINED BODICE – Lay Skirt right side up. Lay Main Bodice on top right side down. Flip Bodice Lining out the way. Match bottom edge of Main Bodice to top edge of Skirt, lining Bodice side seams up with Skirt side seams. Stitch. Press raw edges of Skirt waist up towards Bodice. UNLINED BODICE – Lay Skirt right side up. Lay Bodice on top right side down. Match bottom edge of Bodice to top edge of Skirt, lining Bodice side seams up with Skirt side seams. Stitch. Finish raw edge using Hong Kong method.
- INVISIBLE ZIPPER – LINED BODICE – Wrong sides facing up, press center back seam just past zipper marking on both sides. Install invisible zipper. Open zipper. Flip it out so the seam allowance is flat. Flip Bodice Lining over Main Bodice right sides together, sandwiching zipper. Stitch seam allowance to zipper tape. Repeat on opposite side. Turn Bodice Lining to inside of dress. Clip halfway into the seam allowance of Main Bodice. UNLINED BODICE – Lay Dress right sides facing up. Install invisible zipper. Trim excess off top of zipper. Fold seam allowance under itself, pin, and press. Stitch seam to zipper tape. Repeat for the other side of zipper. Turn Bodice right side out. Trim tail the zipper tape.
- CENTER BACK SEAM – Turn dress wrong side out. Clip into Center Back Skirt seam allowance, just under zipper stitching. Turn dress right side out. Stitch center back seam using a French seam. SKIRT OVERLAY: Repeat for Skirt Overlay.
- HEM – Fold ¼ inch to wrong side and press. Repeat. Topstitch. SKIRT OVERLAY: Repeat for Skirt Overlay.
- LINED OPTION: FINISHING THE BODICE – Pin the memory hem to the Bodice. Stitch in the ditch or use a slipstitch to secure the Bodice Lining.
- OPTIONAL WAISTBAND – Fold Waistband in half lengthwise right sides together. Pin long edge. Stitch leaving a 1-inch gap for turning in the middle. Press seam to the middle, pressing seam allowance open. Stitch both short edges. Turn and press. Use a slipstitch to stitch gap closed. Mark center of front dress and Waistband. Place Waistband onto dress, matching centers, right sides together. Pin. Wrap Waistband around to back. Pin. Hand stitch at back and side seams.
- OPTIONAL BOW – Fold Bow in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edge, leaving a 1 inch gap. Turn out. Align short edges right sides together. Stitch. Fold fabric under by ½ inch. Use slipstitch to close gap. Press seam to middle. Hand stitch middle of Bow together. Fold Bow Center in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch one short and the long edge. Clip corner and trim seam allowance. Turn out and press. Fold open short edge ½ inch to wrong side. Pin. Wrap Center around right side of Bow, inserting closed end into open. Stitch. Hand stitch Bow onto center front of dress or Waistband.
- If you measure at the top of your size range, the dress should fit exactly.
- If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the back seam before continuing.
- We recommend trying the dress on now and pinning the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- If it fits as you wish, continue.
- If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check that you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Hem – ½ inch – Hong Kong Finish ¼ inchPreparation –
Sewing –
UNLINED BODICE OPTION:
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch Hem – ½ inch – Hong Kong Finish ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Interfacing
If you are sewing the unlined Bodice, apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Front and Back Facing pieces, using the manufacturer’s instructions.
0.3OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are sewing the unlined sleeveless option and are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold bias binding to finish the raw edges of the armscye.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
. Unlined Bodice OPTION.0If you are sewing the lined Bodice, skip to step 7.
1 . Shoulders1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Front and Back Bodice pieces right sides together. Pin the shoulders. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to stitch Bodice shoulders together. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
1.1Lay the Front Bodice and Back Bodice pieces wrong sides together. Pin the shoulders.
1.2Stitch both shoulders using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim your seam allowance in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. Try to trim your seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out.
1.4Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
1.5Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
1.6Turn right side out and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
2 . Side Seams2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Front and Back Bodice pieces right sides together. Pin the side seams. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
2.1Stitch the side seams of the Bodice together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
3 . Facing3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Front and Back Facing pieces right sides together. Pin the shoulder seams. NOTE – The shoulder seams are slightly different widths as the seam is on at angle. Line up the outer edge first. Then pin together towards the neckline. There will be a small pointy bit at the neck – this will ensure the seam lines up. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 3.2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
3.1Stitch the Front and Back Facing together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The shoulder seams are slightly different widths as the seam is on at angle. Line up the outer edge first. Then pin together towards the neckline. There will be a small pointy bit at the neck – this will ensure the seam lines up.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press the seam allowance towards the Front Facing. Pressing this seam in the opposite direction to the shoulders will reduce bulk at the seam.
3.2Fold the outer edge of the Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
TIP – Giving it a good press here will help keep the curved edge neat.
3.3Fold another ¼ inch. Press.
3.4Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.5Fold the Facing and the Bodice neckline in half and mark the center front.
3.6Open the Bodice so it is flat, right side facing up. Place the Facing down, right sides together, matching center front and shoulder seams. Pin at the shoulder seams only.
NOTE – Make sure the shoulder seams of the Facing and Bodice are in opposite directions to reduce bulk.
3.7Continue pinning the rest of the Facing to the Bodice around the neck opening.
3.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.9Press the seam allowance up towards the Facing.
3.10Understitch the neckline seam allowance to the Facing.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Facing approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Facing and Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the Facing inside the dress and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the Bodice.
3.11Now attach the facing shoulder seams to the garment shoulder seams and back seam. This is an extra step to help keep the facing in place and make sure it doesn’t pop out while being worn.
The facing can either be hand sewn to the garment along the shoulder and back seams, or pin and then machine stitch as shown directly over the shoulder and back seams so that the stitches are hidden in the seam (also called “stitch in the ditch”).
NOTE – It is easiest to show this step by photographing the inside of the garment as shown. However, to make sure the stitching really is “in the ditch”, make sure to stitch with the right side of the garment facing upwards.
Skip to step 4 for Cap Sleeves OPTION, or to step 5 for Short Sleeves OPTION or to step 6 for the Sleeveless OPTION.
4 . Cap Sleeves OPTION4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem edge of each of the Cap Sleeves without removing any seam allowance. Fold ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Then skip to step 4.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
4.1Fold the Cap Sleeve hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
4.2Fold another ¼ inch and press.
4.3Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
4.4OPTIONAL gathered sleeve head. If you are not doing a gathered sleeve head, skip to step 4.5. If you are doing a gathered sleeve head, follow along below.
To help ease the sleeve into the armscye we are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ¼ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.
When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start at one notch and sew to the next. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo).
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads I find I have!
NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.
4.5Fold the Cap Sleeve in half and mark the center.
4.6Place the Cap Sleeve inside the Bodice, right sides together, matching the center of the Sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin. Match the ends of the Cap Sleeve to the pattern markings on the front and back of the bodice. Pin.
NOTE – The image shows a Short Sleeve from the Lined Bodice, however the steps are the same and so the seams are not finished with a French seam.
The Cap Sleeve won’t fit all the way around the armscye.
4.7Find a pair of bobbin thread and very gently pull on both equally to gather the cap sleeve until it fits between the notches. Distribute the gathers.
4.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
If you gathered the sleeve head, remove your gathering stitches now by pulling on the bobbin threads until they come all the way out.
TIP – When stitching, keep the Bodice piece on the top, so the Sleeve is against the feed dogs. This will help you avoid puckering.
4.9You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias binding to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Cap Sleeve.
This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges then fold over by ½ inch and topstitch in place.
Turn the Cap Sleeve so the wrong side is on the outside. Fold one edge of the binding over by ¼ inch to the wrong side. Place the bias binding onto the raw edge of the armscye seam, right sides together, starting at the underarm and leaving a 1-inch tail on the opposite end of the folded end. Pin.
Overlap the long tail over the folded end. Pin.
NOTE – The images show a Short Sleeve, however the process is the same.
4.10Stitch the two pieces of bias binding together.
Trim the excess fabric.
4.11Stitch around the armscye using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.12Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance, be sure to cover the stitching from step 4.11. Pin.
4.13‘Stitch in the ditch’, or stitch from the Cap Sleeve side of the seam directly in the seam so the visible stitches are kept at a minimum.
NOTE – You do not need to fold the second edge of the bias, as this is cut on the bias it will not fray, but this way it will be thinner.
4.14Trim the raw edge of the bias binding, as close to the stitching as you can, without cutting into the seam.
Press the bound seam allowance in toward the Bodice.
TIP – To stop the bias binding from flipping out, hand sew a few tacking stitches to the underarm seam allowance to keep it in place.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.13 for the other Cap Sleeve.
Skip to step 12.
5 . Short Sleeves OPTION5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the straight short edges of the Short Sleeve right sides together. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Insert the Short Sleeve into the Bodice, right sides together, matching the middle of the Sleeve to the center of the shoulder seam and matching side and sleeve seams. Continue pinning the Sleeve, easing it along at the seam allowance. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Fold Sleeve hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Fold Sleeve hem again to wrong side by 1 inch. Press. Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance. Repeat for other Short Sleeve. Skip to step 12.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
5.1Stitch the straight short edges of the Short Sleeve together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
5.2Place the Short Sleeve inside the Bodice, right sides together, matching the center of the Sleeve to the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam to the side seam. Pin.
NOTE – The image shows a Short Sleeve from the Lined Bodice, so the seams are not finished with a French seam.
5.3Continue pinning the Sleeve, easing it along at the seam allowance.
5.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – When stitching, keep the Bodice piece on the top, so the Sleeve is against the feed dogs. This will help you avoid puckering.
5.5Turn the Bodice right side out. Fold the Short Sleeve hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
5.6Fold again by 1 inch. Press.
5.7Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
5.8Press the seam.
5.9You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias binding to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Sleeve.
This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.
Turn the Short Sleeve so the wrong side is on the outside. Fold one short edge of the binding over by ¼ inch. Place the bias binding onto the raw edge of the armscye seam, right sides together. Pin. Continue pinning the bias binding around the armscye past the beginning leaving a 1-inch tail.
Overlap the 1-inch tail over the folded end. Pin.
NOTE – The images show a Lined Bodice, however the process is the same.
5.10Stitch the two pieces of bias binding together.
Trim the excess fabric.
5.11Stitch around the armscye using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
5.12Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance, be sure to cover the stitching from step 5.4. Pin.
5.13‘Stitch in the ditch’, or stitch from the Short Sleeve side of the seam directly in the seam so the visible stitches are kept at a minimum.
NOTE – you do not need to fold the second edge of the bias, as this is cut on the bias it will not fray, but this way it will be thinner.
5.14Trim the raw edge of the bias binding, as close to the stitching as you can, without cutting into the seam.
Press the bound seam allowance in toward the Bodice.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.14 for the other Short Sleeve.
Skip to step 12.
6 . Sleeveless OPTION6.0SERGER OPTION – Serge the armscye of the Bodice using ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn under another ¼ inch. Press. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Open the double fold bias binding and fold over the short end to the inside about a ¼ inch and press.
Starting at the side seam, pin the binding along the armscye, right sides together, matching the raw edges.
6.2Start stitching on the folded end of the binding and continue around the armscye. Stitch in the first fold aligning the edge of the bias binding ¼ inch in from the armhole. Overlap the end over the fold and stop stitching after crossing over it.
6.3Hold back the binding and trim the Bodice seam allowance approximately ⅛ of an inch.
6.4Clip the curves around the armscye, being very careful not to cut into the stitching.
Press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the armscye.
6.5Fold the binding all the way to the wrong side, over the seam allowance and enclosing all raw edges. The binding will now be on the inside.
6.6Stitch the binding to the armscye about ⅛ inch from the edge of the bias binding to hold it in place.
The bias binding should now be totally attached to the armhole on both sides and the raw edges all enclosed.
6.7Press.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 on the other armscye.
Skip to step 12.
. Lined Bodice OPTION7 . Shoulders7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Main Front right side up. Place the Main Back pieces down, right sides together, matching shoulders. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to the Back. Repeat with the Front and Back Lining pieces, pressing the seam to the Front. Skip to step 8 for the Cap Sleeve OPTION, or to step 9 for the Short Sleeve OPTION or to step 10 for the sleeveless OPTION.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
7.1Lay the Front Lining right side up. Place the Back Lining pieces down, right sides together, matching shoulders. Pin.
7.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.3Press the seam allowance open.
7.4Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for the Main Front and Back Bodice pieces.
Follow step 8 for Cap Sleeves OPTION or skip to step 9 for Short Sleeves OPTION or to step 10 for the sleeveless OPTION.
8 . Cap Sleeves OPTION8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem edge of each of the Cap Sleeves without removing any seam allowance. Fold ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Then skip to step 8.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
8.1Fold the Cap Sleeve hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
8.2Fold another ¼ inch and press.
8.3Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
8.4OPTIONAL gathered sleeve head. If you are not doing a gathered sleeve head, skip to step 8.5. If you are doing a gathered sleeve head, follow along below.
To help ease the sleeve into the armscye we are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ¼ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.
When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start at one notch and sew to the next. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo).
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads I find I have!
NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.
8.5Fold the Cap Sleeve in half and mark the center.
8.6Lay the Main Bodice right side up. Place the Cap Sleeve onto the Bodice, right sides together, matching the center of the Cap Sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin. Match the ends of the Cap Sleeve to the pattern markings on the front and back of the bodice. Pin.
8.7Find a pair of bobbin thread and very gently pull on both equally to gather the cap sleeve until it fits between the notches. Distribute the gathers.
8.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
If you gathered the sleeve head, remove your gathering stitches now by pulling on the bobbin threads until they come all the way out.
8.9Fold the Cap Sleeve inside the Main Bodice, right sides together. This will keep it out of the way when you assemble the Bodice.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.9 for the other Cap Sleeve.
Skip to step 10.
9 . Short Sleeves OPTION9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Main Bodice together at the side seams, right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat with the Bodice Lining. Pin the straight short edges of the Short Sleeve right sides together. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Insert the Short Sleeve into the Bodice, right sides together, matching the middle of the Sleeve to the center of the shoulder seam and matching side and sleeve seams. Continue pinning the Sleeve, easing it along at the seam allowance. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Fold Sleeve hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Fold Sleeve hem again to wrong side by 1 inch. Press. Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance. Repeat for other Short Sleeve. Skip to step 10.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to stitch the Short Sleeve seams. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
9.1Place the Main Bodice together at the side seam, right sides together. Pin.
9.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 on the other side.
9.3Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 with the Bodice Lining.
9.4Stitch the sleeve seams of the Short Sleeves together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
9.5Place the Short Sleeve inside the Main Bodice, right sides together, matching the center of the Sleeve to the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam to the side seam. Pin.
9.6Continue pinning the Sleeve, easing it along at the seam allowance.
9.7Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
TIP – When stitching, keep the Bodice piece on the top, so the Sleeve is against the feed dogs. This will help you avoid puckering.
9.8Turn the Bodice right side out. Fold the Short Sleeve hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
9.9Fold again by 1 inch. Press.
9.10Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
9.11Press the seam.
Repeat steps 9.4 to 9.11 for the other Short Sleeve.
Skip to step 10.6.
10 . Assemble Bodice10.0If you are sewing a sleeveless or Cap Sleeve OPTION, follow steps 10.1 to 10.5. If you are sewing a Short Sleeve OPTION, follow steps 10.6 to 10.16.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – SLEEVELESS OR CAP SLEEVE OPTION – Place the Main Bodice right sides together with the Bodice Lining, matching shoulder seams, neckline, and all raw edges. Pin along the neckline and armholes. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 10.3. SHORT SLEEVE OPTION – Place the Main Bodice right sides together with the Bodice Lining, matching shoulder seams, neckline, and all raw edges. Pin along the neckline. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 10.8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
10.1SLEEVELESS OR CAP SLEEVE OPTION – You will be stitching the neck and armholes right sides together, then pulling the Bodice through on itself in the direction of the arrows. The Bodice will then be right sides out and finished at the neckline and armhole.
Place the Main Bodice right sides together with the Bodice Lining, matching shoulder seams, neckline, and all raw edges. Pin along the neckline and armholes.
NOTE – CAP SLEEVES: You will need to keep them inside the Bodice and away from the neckline in order not to stitch them into the seam. The only part of the Cap Sleeves you will be stitching over is the raw edge where it attaches to the Bodice at the armscye.
10.2Stitch the neckline and armholes using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – CAP SLEEVES: Take care not to catch them when stitching the neckline.
10.3Clip into the seam allowance along the curved edges of the neckline and armhole. This will allow the Bodice to sit flat when turned right side out. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
10.4Turn the Bodice right sides out.
To do this, put your arm into the garment from the front waistline, up through the shoulder seam and into the back of the garment. Grab the back waistline and pull it through to the front. Repeat to turn through the other back side.
Depending on the size you are doing, you may find it easier to poke your Back Lining pieces through the shoulder area first, then pull it through from the front.
If you have done the Cap Sleeves, when you turn the garment through, they will pop right sides out too.
10.5Press well.
TIP – The garment should sit smooth and flat along the neckline and armholes. If it does not, turn it through and snip a little further into the seam allowances. Do not snip too close to the seam or you will leave a hole.
Skip to step 11.
10.6SHORT SLEEVE OPTION – You will be stitching the neckline and armholes together, then finishing the armscye raw edges using a Hong Kong finish.
Place the Main Bodice right sides together with the Bodice Lining, matching shoulder seams, neckline, and all raw edges. Pin along the neckline only.
10.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.8Clip into the seam allowance along the curved edges of the neckline. This will allow the Bodice to sit flat when turned right side out. Be careful not to cut into the stitching. Turn right side out. Press.
10.9Place the Lining and Main Bodice wrong sides together at the armscye, matching the side seams. Pin.
10.10Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching over the basting stitching from step 9.7.
Remove any visible basting stitches.
10.11You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias binding to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Sleeve.
This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.
Turn the Short Sleeve so the wrong side is on the outside. Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Fold one edge of the binding over by ¼ inch. Place the bias binding onto the raw edge of the armscye seam, right sides together, leaving a 1-inch tail on the opposite end of the folded end. Pin.
Overlap the long tail over the folded end. Pin.
10.12Stitch the two pieces of bias binding together.
Trim the excess fabric.
10.13Stitch around the armscye using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
10.14Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance, be sure to cover the stitching from step 10.13. Pin.
10.15‘Stitch in the ditch’, or stitch from the Short Sleeve side of the seam directly in the seam so the visible stitches are kept at a minimum.
NOTE – you do not need to fold the second edge of the bias, as this is cut on the bias it will not fray, but this way it will be thinner.
10.16Trim the raw edge of the bias binding, as close to the stitching as you can, without cutting into the seam.
Press the seam up toward the shoulder seam.
TIP – To stop the bias binding from flipping out, hand sew a few tacking stitches to the underarm seam allowance to keep it in place.
Repeat steps 10.6 to 10.16 on the other armscye.
Skip to step 12.
11 . Side Seams11.0Follow this step if you are sewing a Sleeveless or Cap Sleeve Lined Bodice.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 11.1 to 11.4. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to the back. Repeat on the other side. Press up ½ inch memory hem on the Bodice Lining. Skip to step 12.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
11.1You are going to stitch the Lining and Main Bodice side seams together in one line.
Place the Bodice right sides together.
11.2Lift the Lining out of the way. Clip or pin the Main Bodice right sides together. Do not catch the Lining in the pins.
11.3Lift both the Front and Back Lining up and pin or clip these right sides together.
This should now form one long seam from the Lining raw edge down to the Bodice raw edge.
11.4Stitch the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
11.5Press the seam allowance open.
11.6Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.5 with the other side seam.
11.7Create a memory hem on the Bodice Lining by folding ½ inch towards the wrong side and pressing.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Bodice. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Bodice Lining hem later.
. Skirt12 . OPTIONAL Pockets12.0If you are sewing the Skirt Overlay or are not adding Pockets, skip to step 13.9. If you are adding Pockets, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Pocket right sides together to the side seam of the Front Skirt at the pattern markings. Follow step 12.7. Then, press the seam allowance towards the Pocket. Repeat to attach the second Pocket to the other side. Repeat to attach a Pocket to each Back Skirt.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
12.1Place a Pocket piece wrong sides together (right sides out) onto one side of the Front Skirt, matching the top of the Pocket with the pattern marking.
12.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
12.3Trim the seam allowance in half along the Pocket section of the raw edge only. DO NOT trim all the way down the Front Skirt side seam.
12.4Open the Pocket up and press the seam allowance towards the Pocket.
12.5Flip the Pocket over so the right sides are together and press well along the seam.
12.6Stitch again along the edge of the Pocket using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
12.7There will now be a little fold on the top and bottom of the Pocket.
Snip this piece parallel to the top of the Pocket, and even with the edge, so that the fabric will lay flat. Don’t cut past the Pocket.
12.8Flip the Pocket over and press the seam well.
TIP – Understitch along the Pocket and Front Skirt seam. This will hide the raw edges and catch the seam allowance, so it all lays flat in the finished garment. To do this, keep the Pocket piece flipped away from the Front Skirt. Edge stitch between ⅛ and ¼ inch from the seam line.
12.9Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.8 to attach a Pocket to the other side of the Front Skirt.
Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.8 to attach a Pocket to each Back Skirt piece.
13 . Skirt13.0If you have added OPTIONAL Pockets, follow steps 13.1 to 13.8. If you are sewing the Skirt Overlay or have not added OPTIONAL Pockets, follow step 13.9.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – OPTIONAL POCKETS: Place the Front and Back Skirt pieces together and serge each side seam including around the Pocket using a ½ inch seam allowance. Stitch the corners of the Pockets on a regular machine. Skip to step 14. NO POCKETS: Serge each of the Back Skirts right sides together to the Front Skirt along the side seams. OPTIONAL OVERLAY: Serge each of the Overlay Back Skirts right sides together to the Overlay Front Skirt along the side seams. Then skip to step 14.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
13.1OPTIONAL POCKETS – Place the Front and a Back Skirt wrong sides together, matching up the Pockets and top and bottom of your Skirt pieces. Pin.
NOTE – The images show an extra Skirt seam, however the process is the same.
13.2Starting at the top of the side seam, sew until you reach the top of the Pocket. Continue until you have stitched a ¼ inch onto the top of the Pocket.
13.3Put the needle down into the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot so you are facing down the Pocket, drop the presser foot, and continue around the Pocket, still sewing with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
13.4Once you are ¼ inch onto the bottom piece again, pivot until you are stitching down the side. Sew all the way to the bottom of the side seam.
13.5Trim the seam allowances in half.
13.6Flip the Skirt so that the right sides are now together. Press well, ensuring the seam allowances are at the exact center of the folds. Again, match up the tops and bottoms of the Skirt and the Pockets.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
TIP – After turning through, if the seam allowance doesn’t sit flat at the corner where Pocket meets the garment, turn it back the right way out, snip into the seam allowance towards the seam and then try again.
13.7Press the Pocket and seam towards the front.
13.8Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.7 to attach the other Back Skirt to the other side of the Front Skirt.
Skip to step 14.
13.9NO POCKETS – Lay the Front and Back Skirt pieces wrong sides together. Pin the side seams.
13.10Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
13.11Trim your seam allowance in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. Try to trim your seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out.
13.12Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
13.13Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
13.14Turn right side out and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
If you are adding a Skirt Overlay, follow below. If you are not adding a Skirt Overlay, skip to step 14.
13.15SKIRT OVERLAY – Repeat steps 13.9 to 13.14 with the Front and Back Skirt Overlay pieces.
14 . Attach Bodice to Skirt14.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 14.1 to 14.4. LINED BODICE: Place the Main Bodice and the Skirt right sides together. Match the bottom edge of the Main Bodice to the top edge of the Skirt, lining side seams and centers. Pin. Flip the Bodice Lining up and out of the way. Serge the Bodice to the Skirt using a ½ inch seam allowance, keeping the lining free. Press the raw edges of the Skirt waist up towards the Bodice. Skip to step 15. UNLINED BODICE: Place the Main Bodice and the Skirt right sides together. Match the bottom edge of the Main Bodice to the top edge of the Skirt, lining the Bodice side seams up with the Skirt side seams. Pin. Serge the Bodice to the Skirt using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 15.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
14.1You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the top raw edge of the Skirt. Mark 1 ½ inches from the side seam on either side. You will be stitching in between these markings.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take the Skirt and stitch the first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.
Find and mark the center of the Skirt.
14.2Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather until the width of the top of the skirt matches the width of the bottom of the bodice, and then gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Overlay, skip to step 14.6 for the Lined Bodice OPTION or skip to step 14.9 for the Unlined Bodice OPTION.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Overlay, follow below.
14.3SKIRT OVERLAY – Repeat steps 14.1 to 14.2 with the Skirt Overlay.
14.4Place the Overlay onto the Skirt, right sides facing up, matching side seams and center points. Pin.
TIP – If you are using a fine fabric for the Overlay, use clips instead of pins as these may leave holes in the fabric. If clipping is tricky, stitch slowly while adjusting the two pieces as you sew, keeping the raw edges together.
14.5Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
You will now treat this as one Skirt piece.
If you are sewing a Lined Bodice OPTION, follow below. If you are sewing an Unlined Bodice OPTION, skip to step 14.8.
14.6LINED BODICE – Lay the Skirt right side up. Lay the Main Bodice on top right side down (so the Skirt and Main Bodice are right sides together). Flip the Bodice Lining up and out of the way as best you can.
Match the bottom edge of the Main Bodice to the top edge of the Skirt, lining the Bodice side seams up with the Skirt side seams. Pin.
14.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
14.8Press the raw edges of the Skirt waist up towards the Bodice.
NOTE – The images show an ungathered Skirt, however the steps are the same.
14.9UNLINED BODICE – Lay the Skirt right side up. Lay the Bodice on top right side down (so the Skirt and Bodice are right sides together).
Match the bottom edge of the Bodice to the top edge of the Skirt, lining the Bodice side seams up with the Skirt side seams. Pin.
14.10Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
14.11Trim the seam allowance.
14.12Press the seam up towards the Bodice.
If you have sewn an unlined Bodice with Short Sleeves version, repeat steps 5.10 to 5.14 to finish the waist edge using the Hong Kong method.
If you have not sewn this option, follow below.
14.13You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias binding to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Skirt.
This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.
Flip the Bodice onto the Skirt, right sides together. Place the bias binding onto the raw edge of the waist seam, right sides down. Pin.
14.14Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
14.15Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance, be sure to cover the stitching from step 14.7. Pin.
14.16‘Stitch in the ditch’, or stitch from the front side of the seam directly in the seam so the visible stitches are kept at a minimum.
14.17Trim the raw edge of the bias binding, as close to the stitching as you can, without cutting into the seam.
Trim the ends on either side.
14.18Press the seam up towards the Bodice.
15 . Invisible Zipper15.0FIT CHECK – We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the Bodice.
It is important you use an invisible zipper to create the look and fit of the back of the dress. If you use a regular zipper, or don’t install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished bodice will be too big. To help with this, we’ve made a short video.
Read through the steps below, then watch the video here. Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge both center back edges of the Back Skirts. Do not remove any seam allowance, just serge to finish. Then continue with step 15.1.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
15.1Unzip the invisible zipper and place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.
When the zipper is closed the teeth of the zipper will curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew.
A good way to do this is to use your fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat.
NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zipper a little to make it easier to attach.
If you have sewn the unlined Bodice, skip to step 15.12. If you are sewing a Lined Bodice, follow below.
15.2LINED BODICE – With wrong sides facing up, press a ½ inch seam allowance from the top of your Bodice (Main fabric and Lining) and the Back Skirt to approximately halfway down the Skirt (just past where the zipper pattern marking).
NOTE – If you have added a Skirt Overlay you will treat it as one Skirt piece for these steps.
Repeat for the other side of the dress.
15.3With the Dress right sides facing up, flip the Bodice Lining up out of the way. You’ll be attaching the zipper to the Main Bodice (not the Lining) and Skirt.
Unfold the seam allowance. With the right zipper tape on the left side of the dress, right sides together (zipper teeth facing in towards your Bodice), line the zipper up with the top of the Bodice. Match the zipper stop to the top of the seam where the Main Bodice and Lining join. Pin in place.
TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zip on the correct side of the Dress, and that they are facing right sides together.
TIP – You can add washaway tape to the zipper instead of using pins. This will help hold it in place.
Shorten the zipper if necessary, to match the recommended zipper length. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop it from opening below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off.
TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zipper to the other.
15.4INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close to the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can.
REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zip to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper as close to the zipper pull as you can.
15.5Close the zipper. You will then be able to check that your stitches are correct, and the zipper can close easily.
Place a pin in the zipper tape where the Bodice meets the Skirt and at the end of the zip where your stitching ends. This will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when you sew it to the opposite side of the dress.
15.6Open the zipper. Repeat steps 15.3 to 15.4 with the left zipper tape on the right side of the dress.
It may feel awkward but still stitch from the top of the dress downwards. That way the zipper won’t slip or move and will be aligned correctly.
Trim the excess off the top of the zipper.
TIP – Check that you can close the zipper properly before moving onto the next step.
15.7Open the zipper. Flip it out so the seam allowance is flat.
Flip the Bodice Lining back down over the top of the Bodice so right sides are facing together. You will be sandwiching the zipper between the Bodice and the Lining.
Make sure the bottom raw edge of the Bodice Lining is still flipped upwards. The folded edge of the Bodice Lining should match with the waist seam between the Bodice and Skirt.
The top tip of the zipper tape should be folded into the seam allowance so that it just disappears into the garment when it is completed.
Pin.
15.8If you have used an invisible zipper foot, change to a regular zipper foot for this step. Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching ¼ inch in from the raw edge.
Remember to keep the Bodice Lining waist seam allowance folded up and check that the Skirt waist seam allowance is folded up and caught between the bodice and the lining. Be careful not to sew over the zipper teeth.
Repeat for the opposite side of the Bodice.
15.9Turn the Bodice Lining over to the inside of your dress. The Bodice Lining seams will now be enclosed.
Skip to step 16.
15.10UNLINED BODICE – With wrong sides facing up, press a ½ inch seam allowance from the top of your Bodice and the Back Skirt to approximately halfway down the Skirt (just past where the zipper pattern marking).
NOTE – If you have added a Skirt Overlay you will treat it as one Skirt piece for these steps.
15.11Lay the Dress right sides facing up (including the Facing).
Unfold the seam allowance. With the right zipper tape on the left side of the dress, right sides together (zipper teeth facing in towards your Bodice), line the zipper up with the top of the Bodice. Match the zipper stop to the top of the seam where the Main Bodice and Facing join. Pin in place.
TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zip on the correct side of the Dress, and that they are facing right sides together.
TIP – You can add washaway tape to the zipper instead of using pins. This will help hold it in place.
Shorten the zipper if necessary, to match the recommended zipper length. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop it from opening below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off.
TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zipper to the other.
15.12INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close to the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can.
REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zip to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper as close to the zipper pull as you can.
Close the zipper and check that you are able to open and close the zipper easily.
TIP – When stitching over the waist seam and Hong Kong finish, go slowly and use the hand wheel rather than the foot pedal. This will help avoid broken needles.
15.13You will then be able to check that your stitches are correct, and the zipper can close easily.
Place a pin in the zipper tape where the Bodice meets the Skirt and at the end of the zip where your stitching ends. This will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when you sew it to the opposite side of the dress.
15.14Open the zipper. Repeat steps 15.11 to 15.13 with the left zipper tape on the right side of the dress.
It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards. That way the zipper won’t slip or move and will be aligned correctly.
Trim the excess off the top of the zipper.
TIP – Check that you can close the zipper properly before moving onto the next step.
15.15Fold the seam allowance on the side of the zipper under on itself so the raw edge is hidden, pin and press.
This is a very narrow section of seam allowance, so this can be a bit tricky. If you have them, pin using dressmakers pins or glass head pins (not plastic head pins). That way you can press with the pins in place to make it easier. Make sure to put a pressing cloth or clean tea towel over the pins before pressing so they don’t mark your iron.
15.16Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, as close to the folded edges as possible.
Repeat steps 15.15 to 15.16 for the other side of the zipper.
TIP – When stitching over the waist seam and Hong Kong finish, go slowly and use the hand wheel rather than the foot pedal. This will help avoid broken needles.
15.17Fold the Facing onto the Bodice, right sides together.
15.18Move the zipper tape out to the side.
Stitch the Facing onto the Back, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Cut into the seam allowance approximately ½ inch down from the Facing seam, just up to your stitch line. Be careful not to snip into your stitching.
Trim the tail off the zipper tape so that it sits flush with the seam.
15.19Repeat steps 15.17 to 15.18 on the other side.
Turn the Bodice right side out.
16 . Center Back Seam16.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 16.1. Then place the Back Skirts right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance as close to the zipper as you can. Skip to step 17.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to finish the center back seam with French seam. It’s slightly different to the previous French seam as we must first detach the seam allowance from the zip. Follow along below.
16.1Clip into the Back Skirt seam allowance, just under the zipper stitching. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.
Clip halfway into the seam allowance of the Main Bodice approximately ½ inch above where the Bodice joins the Skirt. This is so the seam allowance below this spot can be turned under on the next step.
16.2Turn the dress right side out.
Stitch the center back seam of the Back Skirts together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for step 13.
If you have added the Skirt Overlay, separate the two skirt layers. Flip the Overlay up and out of the way. Start with the main center back seam first.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – You want to start stitching as close to the bottom of the zipper stitching as possible. Use your zipper foot to get really close. The goal is to make the seam look continuous from the zipper downwards when wearing the finished garment.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
NOTE – To avoid puckering, start from the zipper and stitch towards the bottom of the skirt. Try to stitch close to the zipper, being careful that you do not catch the Skirt Overlay into your seam.
16.3Repeat step 16.2 with the center back seam of the Skirt Overlay.
NOTE – To avoid puckering, start from the zipper and stitch towards the bottom of the skirt. Try to stitch close to the zipper, being careful that you do not catch the main Skirt into your seam and making this seam a continuation of the zip line.
17 . Hem17.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the bottom edge without removing any fabric. Press ½ inch to the wrong side. Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:
17.1Fold ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.
NOTE – If you are doing the Overlay OPTION, you will be hemming the main Skirt and then the Overlay Skirt.
17.2Fold another ¼ inch. Press.
17.3Edgestitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
If you have sewn a Skirt Overlay, follow below.
If you have not added a Skirt Overlay and have sewn an unlined Bodice, your Classic Dress is finished!
If you have not added a Skirt Overlay and have sewn a lined Bodice, skip to step 18.
17.4SKIRT OVERLAY – Repeat steps 17.1 to 17.3 with the Skirt Overlay.
TIP – If you are using chiffon or a similar fabric, you may find it easier to stitch a rolled hem.
