Children’s Eloise Dress

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk. If you are adding the Shirred Elastic or Elastic Casing to the waist, you will also need to transfer the waistline marking onto both the Front and Back pieces.

Turn inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach the second Sleeve to the other side of the front bodice. 

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach each Sleeve to the back bodice if you are doing the elastic casing. 

If you are doing the shirred option, leave the left back Sleeve open. The left back Sleeve will be sewn in step 3.10.

Press all seams towards the Sleeves.

If you are doing the Shirred OPTION skip to step 3.  For the Elastic OPTION, continue on to step 2.  

If you are sewing the Shirred OPTION, skip to step 3. If you are sewing the Elastic OPTION, follow below.

Repeat steps 2.1 and 2.2 to attach the second Sleeve Head Casing to other side of the front Neckline Casing. 

Repeat steps 2.1 and 2.2 to attach the Sleeve Head Casings to the back Neckline Casing. 

You will now have four casing pieces connected to form a continuous loop.

Fold down the raw edge of your casing ½ inch toward the wrong side and press.

Flip the casing to the inside of the garment so that the wrong sides are together and press. 

Topstitch close to the lower edge, leaving 1 ½ inch opening to insert the elastic.

Stitch all the way round the Neckline Casing, ½ inch away from the previous row of topstitching. 

This will create the channel for the elastic. The small section of fabric above the stitching that won’t gather when the elastic is inserted, giving a slight ‘ruffle’ to the top edge of the garment.

Thread the elastic through the opening from step 2.7. 

TIP – Before threading, match up your cut ends, with no twists in the elastic and mark them with a pen/pencil/marker. When you’ve threaded the elastic through your casing, this can help verify you have no twists before the next step.  

Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch and use a zig zag stitch to sew the ends together.

Slip the elastic inside the casing and topstitch the gap closed.

Skip to step 4.

If you have sewn the Elastic OPTION neckline, skip to step 4. If you are sewing the Shirred OPTION, follow below.

Fold the neckline ¼ inch a second time to enclose all raw edges and press. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

If you are familiar with how to do shirring, skip ahead to step 3.9.

If you are new to shirring, first we need to prepare our bobbin. It is your bobbin that the shirring elastic goes into. You use regular thread on the top part of your sewing machine.

Take an empty bobbin and gently start winding the elastic around it by hand. Leave the end of the elastic hanging off and just hold it out of the way. Wind several times around the bobbin.

Once you have wound the elastic over itself a couple of times, you will find it secure enough that you can cut the trailing piece from the beginning off.

Continue to wind the rest of your bobbin with the elastic. Go gently and slowly, being careful not to pull or stretch the elastic as you wind. 

Stop when the bobbin is about ¾ inch full. Do not put too much on there so that the elastic bulges out over the edge of the bobbin.

Put your bobbin into your machine as you would normally.

If you have a top loading machine, check that the elastic is running through the tension notch just like regular thread would. If it is not running through there you will find the elastic makes squiggly lines on the back of the fabric and it won’t gather nicely.

Continue to set your machine up as you normally would when you change your bobbin thread.

For most top-loading machines you will find it easier to get it all set up and put the bobbin cover on last, once the thread is up under the presser foot. If you have a side loading machine, just do things as you normally would.

Now practice, practice, practice.

Before you go any further, I highly recommend you test your shirring elastic by sewing a scrap of fabric to make sure it is set up how you want it.

On some sewing machines you will find your regular straight stitch will be fine. On some machines you will need to lengthen your stitch slightly. Not all the way, but just a little. Practice until you are happy with how your stitching looks.

TIP – Make sure to use a locking or back stitch at the beginning of each row. If you don’t do this, the elastic can slip out along the row and unravel your stitches.

If this is your first time doing shirring, I also recommend your practice several rows of shirring on a scrap piece of fabric before you do your actual shirring on the garment. This is much easier than having to unpick if you make a mistake!

NOTE – If you make a mistake, the easiest way to unpick shirring elastic is to snip through the elastic at the beginning right next to your locking stitch. Repeat at the other end. Then pull out enough elastic for you to get a hold of it with your fingers. Next, pull the elastic all the way through. The thread on the other side will just fall off once the elastic has been removed. 

NOTE – Shirring elastic is much, much thicker than thread.  This means your full bobbin won’t last as long as a typical bobbin.  Please double check before starting each line of shirring that you will have enough elastic on your bobbin to complete that row.  

With the right side of the fabric facing up, stitch a straight line all the way across the neckline approximately ½ inch from the top edge (the yellow line in the photo).

The right side will look like regular stitching; the back will have elastic on it so that it gathers the fabric.

We will now stitch two more rows next to the first one to give the ‘shirred’ effect (these are the blue lines in the photo so you can see how they are equal distance each from the first line).

You can space your rows as close or as far apart as you wish. For the look in the photos, space them ¼ inch apart from each other.

TIP – If you space your rows of shirring ¼ inch apart, you can use the edge of your presser foot (or as a marking on your presser foot depending on the model) as a guide. Keep the previous row of shirring lined up with the edge of the foot as you sew, and you will get perfectly straight lines!

TIP – Use the steam from your iron to cause the shirring to tighten up and gather more.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the left back Sleeve to create a French seam and close the gap.

Skip to step 5.

If you are sewing the Shirred OPTION Sleeve, skip to step 5. If you are sewing a plain hem Sleeve with Shirred waist, skip to step 6. If you are sewing a short Sleeve or plain hem three-quarter length Sleeve with an Elastic casing waist, skip to step 7. Follow below to gather your three-quarter length Sleeve using an elastic casing.

Fold down the top edge ½ inch and press. 

Unfold the fabric again but leave the pressed fold visible so that you can use it as a guide later to turn the casing under again.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the other Sleeve.

Skip to step 7.

If you have sewn the Elastic OPTION Sleeve, skip to step 7. If you are sewing a plain hem Sleeve with Shirred waist, skip to step 6. If you are sewing a three-quarter length Sleeve with an Elastic casing waist, skip to step 7. Follow below to gather your three-quarter length Sleeve using shirring.

Fold the end of the Sleeve towards the wrong side ¼ inch and press.

Fold the Sleeve ¼ inch a second time to enclose all raw edges and press. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.  

If you prefer a loose fit to your Sleeve, skip to step 6.  

Switch out your regular bobbin for the elastic bobbin.  

With the right side of the Sleeve facing up, stitch a straight line all the way across the end of the Sleeve approximately ½ inch from the top edge.

The right side will look like regular stitching; the back will have elastic on it so that it gathers the fabric.

Stitch two more rows next to the first one to give the ‘shirred’ effect.

You can space your rows as close or as far apart as you wish. For the look in the photos, space them ¼ inch apart from each other.

Repeat steps 5.1 to step 5.3 for the other Sleeve.

If you are sewing a Top or Thigh length and would prefer to leave out the Shirring or Elastic, skip to step 7. If you would like to add an Elastic waist, skip to step 7. If you are sewing the Shirred OPTION, follow below.

Switch out your regular bobbin for the elastic bobbin.  

With the right side of the fabric facing up, stitch a straight line all the way across the bodice front and back along the waistline elastic marking you made in the preparation step.

The right side will look like regular stitching; the back will have elastic on it so that it gathers the fabric.

Stitch two more rows below to the first one to give the ‘shirred’ effect.

You can space your rows as close or as far apart as you wish. For the look in the photos, space them ¼ inch apart from each other.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the front bodice to the back bodice from the Sleeve cuff down the bodice. Match up the Sleeve seams under the arm and pin all the way down the dress to the hem.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge along the side seam. Backstitch at both ends.

NOTE – If you have done the shirred option, you will have already shirred the Sleeves and waist. The pictures shown here have the elastic casing option, however, all the steps for sewing the side seams are the same regardless of which option you chose.

NOTE – If you have done the elastic casing option, make sure your Sleeve casing is unfolded. You need to stitch from the raw edge of the casing, all the way down the Sleeve and side seam to the hem.

Turn right side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

If you have done the shirred option, stitch back and forwards a couple of times over the waist shirring to secure it well.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.4 for the second side seam.  

TIP – Try your Eloise on now.  If you find the weight of the fabric is pulling down your shirring, add an extra line or two to your neckline and waist.  

Skip to step 8 for the hemmed Sleeve. Skip to step 9 for the Elastic OPTION or to step 11 for the Shirred OPTION.

Fold the Sleeve hem towards the wrong side ¼ inch and press.

Fold the Sleeve hem ¼ inch a second time to enclose all raw edges and press. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Skip to step 11 for the Shirred OPTION.

If you have hemmed your Sleeve or sewn the Shirred OPTION, skip to step 11. Or for Elastic Waist Option skip to step 10. Follow this step if you have sewn the Elastic casing in step 4. 

Flip the casing to the inside of the Sleeve, so that the wrong sides are together and press. 

Topstitch close to the folded edge, leaving a 1 ½ inch opening to insert the elastic. 

Stitch all the way around the Sleeve, ½ inch away from the previous row of topstitching. As we did with the neckline casing, this will create the channel for the elastic.

Thread the elastic through the opening from step 9.1.

FIT CHECK – Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch and secure using a safety pin. Try the Sleeve on and adjust the elastic if preferred. 

Use a zig zag stitch to sew the ends of the elastic together.

Topstitch to close the opening. 

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.3 for the other Sleeve.

If you are sewing a Top or Thigh length and would prefer to leave out the Shirring or Elastic, skip to step 11. If you have sewn the Shirred OPTION, skip to step 11. If you are sewing the Elastic OPTION, follow below.

Fold down both long edges of the waist casings ½ inch and press.

NOTE – If you have made single fold bias tape before, we are doing a similar thing by folding each long edge in to hide the raw edges when we attach it to the garment.

Press open the seam and then re-fold the raw edges in and press again.

On the inside of the dress, pin the waist casing to the bodice, wrong sides together, matching the top of the casing to the waistline elastic you marked on the pattern pieces at the preparation step.  

Stitch along both long, folded edges. On the bottom edge leave a 1 ½ inch opening to insert the elastic.

Thread the elastic through the opening.

FIT CHECK – Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch and use a safety pin to secure it. Try the garment on and adjust as preferred.

Use a zig zag stitch to sew the ends together.

Topstitch to close the opening.

NOTE – The length of the garment has been designed using a ½ inch total length of hem (folding under ¼ inch then ¼ inch). Depending on your preferences you may want it more or less than this. Try the garment on before hemming to check the desired final length and adjust the hem length accordingly. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge around the hem to neaten and finish it (do not take any seam allowance off though). Fold hem under ½ inch and press. Topstitch with your sewing machine close to the serged edge. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below to turn the hem under twice and topstitch.

FIT CHECK – Before hemming, try the garment on and check the length. Make sure to allow ½ inch for the hem. Adjust as needed and continue.

Fold the hem towards the wrong side ¼ inch and press.

Fold the hem ¼ inch a second time to enclose all raw edges and press. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

TIP – Some people find it easier to turn ½ inch, press.  Then fold the press in half, tucking in your raw edge, in order to achieve the ¼ inch double fold.