Children’s Frill Dress & Top

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and labels to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Stay stitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the waist panels won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Stay stitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stay stitch the Center Front Skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching out towards each side seam, in the direction of the arrows.

NOTE – These steps are the same for all lengths.

Stay stitch the Center Back Skirt pieces at the waist following the direction of the arrows.

Stay stitch a Side Front and Back Skirt pair at the waist following the direction of the arrows. 

Repeat for the other pair.

NOTE – A rolled hem can be used in place of the regular hemming method. You will need to use a rolled hem foot on a sewing machine, or a serger.  Then, skip to step 2.4.

Fold the curved edge of the Frill ¼ inch to the wrong side. Pin and press.

TIP – Serge the edge of the Frill, or stitch gathering stitches along the curve. This will make it easier to fold the ¼ inch along the curved edge.

Fold another ¼ inch to the wrong side. Pin and press.

Topstitch close to the folded edge. 

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the straight edge of the Frill. 

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 with the other five Frill pieces.

Fold one short edge of the Frill Separator ¼ inch to the wrong side, Pin and press.

Fold another ¼ inch to the wrong side. Pin and press.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat steps 2.5 to 2.7 on the other side of the Frill Separator.

Repeat steps 2.5 to 2.7 for the other three Frill Separators. 

Find and mark the quarter points on all Frill and Frill Separator pieces.

Place a Frill Separator onto the gathered edge of the Frill right sides facing, matching quarter points. Pin. 

Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Frill.

Gather all the way across the quarter you are working on until the Frill is the same length as that quarter of Frill Separator.

Gently spread out the Frill so that it is evenly gathered.

Continue gathering the Frill along each quarter of Frill Separator.

Stitch in between the two lines of gathering with a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the thread so that they come all the way through the fabric. Find the thread from the underside of the fabric and pull it out too.

Flip the Frill Separator right side facing up. 

Place a second Frill onto the raw edge of the Frill Separator, with the right side of the Frill facing up. Pin.

Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.9 to gather and stitch the Frill to the Frill Separator.

Lay a second Frill Separator right side down onto the second Frill, sandwiching the second Frill. 

Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.9 to gather and stitch the Frill to the Frill Separator.

Flip the Frill pieces right sides up. Press.

Place a third Frill onto the raw edge of the Frill Separator, right side facing up.

Repeat step 2.9 to 2.10 to gather and stitch the Frill to the Frill Separator.

You will need to finish the raw edges where the Frills are stitched to the Frill Separators. 

NOTE – You can start on any of the three seams. The last seam (sewn in step 2.14) does not need to be finished as this will be enclosed when you attach the lining.

You can do this by serging or stitching using a zigzag stitch. If you wish to do either of these, do this now. Then skip to step 3.

Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind the seams using bias tape as follows:

Open out the fold on both sides of your bias tape. Fold both short edges of the bias tape to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. 

Place the bias tape right side down onto the wrong side of the Frill, matching the fold of the bias tape to the seam. Pin.

Stitch along the fold on the bias tape. Your stitching should be directly on top of the Frill seam allowance. 

Trim the seam approximately in half.

Fold the bias tape over the seam allowance enclosing the raw edges. Pin.

This is called ‘stitching in the ditch’, where the stitching is done exactly on top of a previous seam. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment and will just catch the other side of the binding in the stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden.

With the right side of the Frill Panel right side up, start at the LEFT side and stitch along the seam where the binding meets the Frill Separator. 

Stitch slowly and hold the binding and Frill Separator fabric flat to help get the stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Frill Panel. Lift up the Frill Panel occasionally and check that the other side of the Binding is caught in the stitching.

Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.19 to create the second Frill Panel.

NOTE – This step is the same for both Bodice OPTIONS.

Place the Main Center Bust and Center Back Bodice right sides together at the shoulder seams. Pin. 

NOTE – Check that you are matching the correct Center Bust to the correct Center Back Bodice piece.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 with the Main Side Back Bodice and Main Side Bust pieces.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 with the Center Bust, Center Back Bust, Side Bust and Side Back Bodice Lining pieces.

Place the Center Bust Lining onto the Side Bust Lining right sides together, at the center seam, easing along at the curve. Pin. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears (as shown) to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

Press the seam allowance open.

TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam. A tailor’s ham is a pressing tool that helps smooth out curves. You can also use a rolled up towel to help smooth out the curves.

NOTE – You will now treat this as one Bodice Lining piece.

Lay the Main Center Bust piece right side up. Place the Frill Panel right side down matching the raw edge of the Frill Separator onto the raw edge of the Main Center Bust. Pin.

NOTE – Both ends of the Frill Panel will be ½ inch shorter than the Main Center Bust.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

NOTE – Check that you have not caught any of the outer edges of the Frills from the Frill Panel in the seam.

Place the Main Side Bodice right side down matching the center seam, sandwiching the Frill Panel. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Check that you have not caught any of the outer edges of the Frills from the Frill Panel in the seam.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

Press the seam allowance open.

TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam. A tailor’s ham is a pressing tool that helps smooth out curves. You can also use a rolled up towel to help smooth out the curves.

NOTE – This will now be called the Main Bodice.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.15 for the other side of the Bodice.  

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Back Ties, continue below.
If you are sewing the Bodice with OPTIONAL Modesty Panels, skip to step 5.
If you are sewing the Plunge neckline, skip to step 4.

OPTIONAL Back Tie: Fold a Back Tie in half lengthways, right sides together.  Pin.

Stitch along the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. 

Press the seam allowance open.  

Center the seam and align the raw edges of one short end.  

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance and turn right sides out.  

Press flat.

TIP – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.

Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.

Align the short raw edge of the Back Tie onto the Back Bodice 2 inches down from the shoulder seam, right sides together, as desired. Pin.

NOTE – Check the Back Bodice piece against the model for Back Tie placement. It should be placed in the middle of the shoulder blades to achieve the look as photographed. Or place them as desired.

NOTE – You are attaching the Back Tie at a horizontal position with it pointing in toward the side edge, not the center edge.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Repeat steps 3.16 to 3.23 for the second Back Tie. 

If you are sewing the Bodice with OPTIONAL Modesty Panels, skip to step 5. 
If you are sewing the Plunge neckline, continue to step 4.

Place a matching Main Bodice and Bodice Lining right sides together, matching the neckline. Pin.

NOTE – Check that the Frills are out of the way. 

NOTE – Both ends of the Frill Panel will be ½ inch shorter than the Main Center Bust.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk. 

Press the seam allowance open.

Understitch the seam allowance to the Lining.

NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Lining and Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice. See the next step for what this looks like finished.

You are going to use a burrito roll method to enclose the Main and Lining. Roll the Frill toward the bust seam. 

Place the Main and Lining right sides together at the armscye seams, keeping the Bodice and Frill rolled up inside. 

Pin the Main and Lining together, being careful to keep the Frills out of the seam.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears (as shown) to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

Reach into the Bodice and pull the rolled-up part out, then continue pulling until the Bodice is right side out. 

Press.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.9 for the other side of the Bodice.

Fold the Center Panel in half, wrong sides together, matching the two shorter edges. Pin.

Baste all the way around the raw edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Pin the Center Panel to the Center Bust, right sides together, matching the folded edge of the Center Panel to the pattern marking on the Center Bust. Continue pinning along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The bottom edges will not match to the Center Panel waist edge.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining right sides together, matching the neckline edge. Pin.

NOTE – The Center Panel will now be sandwiched between the Main and Lining Bodice pieces.

NOTE – Check that the Frills are out of the way.

NOTE – Both ends of the Frill Panel will be ½ inch shorter than the Main Center Bust.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears (as shown) to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

Open the Main and Lining so they are lying flat. Press the seam allowance towards the Lining.

Understitch the seam allowance to the Lining.

NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Lining and Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice. See the next step for what this looks like finished.

Flip the Lining over the Main Bodice, wrong sides together. Press.

Repeat steps 5.3 to 5.10 attaching the other side of the Center Panel to the opposite Main and Lining Bodice pieces.

Your Main and Lining Bodice pieces will now be joined together by the Center Panel and along the neckline.

Repeat step 5.1 to 5.2 with a Side Panel.

Pin the Side Panel to the Main Side Bust, right sides together, matching the folded edge of the Side Panel to the pattern marking on the Side Bust. Continue pinning along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The bottom edges will not match to the Side Panel waist edge.

NOTE – You will be pinning the Side Panel to the main Side Bust. Do not pin it to the Lining. 

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 5.12 to 5.14 to attach the other Side Panel to the other side of the Bodice.

You are going to use a burrito roll method to enclose the Main and Lining. Move one side of the Bodice out of the way as best you can. Roll the Frill toward the bust seam. 

Mark approximately 1-2 inches above where the Side Panel will attach to the Main Side Back Bodice.

Place the Main and Lining right sides together at the armscye seams, keeping the Bodice and Frill rolled up inside. Pin up to where you’ve marked.

NOTE – Do not pin the Main and Lining together below the marking. This will allow you to attach the Side Panel to the Side Back Bodice. 

NOTE – Check the Frill is out of the way and facing toward the middle of the Bodice. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears (as shown) to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

Reach into the Bodice and pull the rolled-up part out, then continue pulling until the Bodice is right side out. 

Press. 

Repeat steps 5.16 to 5.19 on the other side of the Bodice.

Open the unstitched part of the Bodice at the armscye. 

Place the Main Side Panel onto the Main Side Back Bodice right sides together. Pin up to the stitched seam from 5.20.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Take the Side Back Bodice Lining and flip it over the Main Side Back Bodice, right sides together, matching the armscyes. Pin up to the stitched seam from 5.20.

NOTE – The last image shows the other side, to show you what it will look like from the Lining side.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn the Back Bodice right side out. Press.

Topstitch along the armscye using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Repeat steps 5.21 to 5.27 on the other side of the Bodice.

This step is the same for either Bodice OPTION.

Place a Main Side Back Waistband onto the Main Front Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Pay attention to which edge of the back piece is attached into the side seam, as well as the top and bottom of the Waistband pieces. Since the pieces are not quite rectangular in shape it is important to make sure you have them oriented correctly when sewing them together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 with the other Main Side Back Waistband.

Press the seam allowances open.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.4 for the Front Waistband and Side Back Lining pieces.

Place the Bodice onto the Main Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Check that everything is lined up correctly. The Waistband side seams will match up the Bodice side seams, or with the points on the Side Panels (if added). There will be a ½ inch of waistband left on each side of the bodice. 

NOTE – Neither the Frills nor Frill Separator should be attached to the Waistband. 

Baste using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Typically when basting, a smaller seam allowance would be used. Using a ½ inch seam allowance at this step will help ensure the seams points are lined up precisely. Using a basting stitch here means you can remove the stitches later if visible. 

Place the Waistband Lining onto the Bodice, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Bodice will be sandwiched in between the main and lining Waistbands.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – You will be stitching on top of the basting stitches from step 6.7. 

NOTE – If you added modesty panels, this stitch line needs to be exactly at the ½ inch seam allowance in order to intersect your modesty panels and create the exact V shape.

Fold the Center Back Waistband piece in half, lengthways. Press.

Open out the Side Back Waistband Main and Lining, so they lay flat, with right sides facing up.

NOTE – The Frills in these photos are slightly different, however the steps are the same.

Open up the Center Back Waistband and place it onto the Side Back Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Center Back Waistband piece will be continuous along both the Main and Lining Side Back Waistband pieces.  

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.  

Repeat steps 6.11 to 6.13 to attach the other side of the Center Back Waistband.  

Flip the Waistband down so that it is right side out and press the seam.

Pull out any visible basting stitches.  

NOTE – The Skirt steps are the same for the top, three-quarter or maxi length.

The skirt is made up of six pieces. Starting at the back, the order of the panels is: Center Back Skirt, Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, and then Side Back Skirt.

NOTE – You may notice that the Skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as it is sewn to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that the hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching the seam, lay the skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Centre Back Skirt and Side Back Skirt together. Pin down the side seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Side Back Skirt, and then Center Back Skirt. Press all seams to the side. Repeat to stitch the center back seam. Then skip to step 8.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt pieces together. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

NOTE – The pattern pieces are labeled as to which piece each side will be attached to. 

Place a Center Back Skirt onto a Side Back Skirt, wrong sides together (right sides outwards). Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to a Side Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.  

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to attach a Center Front Skirt to the Side Front Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to the Center Front Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to a Side Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to attach a Side Back Skirt to the Center Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Then repeat to stitch up the center back seam. You will not have a full circle skirt.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the Skirt from center back seam to center back seam.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

NOTE – The Skirt steps are the same for the top, three-quarter or maxi length.

With the right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the outer Waistband to the top edge of the Skirt, matching all markings. The side seams of the Waistband will match up with the seam between the side panels of the Skirt. 

Gather the Skirt between the markings until it matches the width of the Waistband. To do this, very gently pull on both of the bobbin threads until the Skirt matches up with the Waistband.

You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers so that it is evenly gathered.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the gathering threads.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out.

Press the seam allowance of the Waistband Lining under ½ inch.

Fold the Center Back Waistband Lining down so that is wrong sides together with the Outer Waistband. 

Make sure that the raw edges of the Skirt are folded upwards towards the Waistband so that they are all caught inside when you pin the Waistband down. The raw edges should all be hidden.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the center back Waistband Lining to the Skirt. If you don’t know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps. Your fabric will be folded under ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.

Insert the needle in the seam allowance of the Skirt.

Insert the needle into the waistband lining, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut. 

Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the seam allowance of the skirt and pull the thread through. Continue to stitch along the waistband, alternating from the seam allowance of the skirt to the waistband lining. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.

When you reach the end of the center back waistband, knot the thread.

Attach a safety pin to one end of your elastic. With dress wrong side out, lift the bodice lining up and insert the elastic into the top channel. Feed the elastic through the channel until there is ¼ inch left outside of the channel. 

Stitch over the elastic to hold it in place. You can do this by stitching directly over the seam between the center back bodice and the side back bodice.

NOTE – You will not have pulled the elastic all the way through the channel yet, just leave the safety pinned end inside the channel while you stitch down the left side of the elastic.

TIP – Try to stitch the elastic as centered in the channel as possible.

Continue feeding the elastic through the channel until the safety pin comes out the other side and there is ¼ inch of elastic coming out of the channel.

Stitch over the elastic, just as you did in step 8.8

Pin the rest of the Bodice Lining to the Skirt, all the way around the waist of the dress, catching the Skirt seam allowance.

Use a slipstitch to sew the rest of the Bodice Lining to the skirt seam allowance, following steps 8.5 to 8.9. 

OPTIONAL – Add topstitching across the elastic back to create a faux channel look and prevent the elastic from twisting.  

If you are sewing the normal hem, follow below. Or skip to step 11 for the horsehair braid option, or to step 12 for a blind hem option.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge along the bottom edge.  Do not remove any fabric.  Press 1 inch to the wrong side.  Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Your Frill Dress & Top is now finished!

Adding horsehair braid will add structure to your hemline. If you are not adding optional horsehair braid and would prefer a blind stitch hem, skip to step 11.

NOTE – We do not recommend adding horsehair braid to the Frill Top, only to the skirt lengths.

Lay the Skirt right sides facing up. Match the horsehair braid edge to the raw edge of the Skirt.

Pin in place.

Topstitch along the bottom raw edge as close to the edge of the horsehair as possible.

Fold the hem by the width of the horsehair braid over to the wrong side. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the edge of the fabric.

Your Frill Dress & Top is now finished!

As your hem will be almost invisible, this hemming option will give your dress a professional finish. A blind hem can be sewn by hand, or by machine, if your machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot. Follow below to stitch by machine.

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Fold the hem under the fabric (towards the right side), so that just ¼ inch of the hem is showing. Pin.

Slide the fabric under the foot with the folded edge resting against the inside edge of the right side of the foot. 

With the blind hem stitch selected, start stitching, keeping the fold in line with the inside edge of the foot.

NOTE – Line up the hem, so when the needle moves to the left, it is able to just catch a thread or two of the skirt fabric.  

TIP – This stitch is best done with thread that matches the fabric very closely, with a fresh, sharp needle. It is very helpful to practice this technique on scrap fabric before attempting it on your gorgeous skirt.

Your Frill Dress & Top is now finished!