Children’s Hoodie Blanket

Children’s Hoodie Blanket

Difficulty Level = Beginner

This quick and easy to sew children’s hoodie blanket sewing pattern is loose fitting with a dropped shoulder and a hood. It features optional cuffed sleeves and hem. There are also two length options, an optional kangaroo or curved pocket.

Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes 12 months – 12 years.

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Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

12mo - 12yrs

Size Chart

Finished Measurements (Inches)

Fitting Notes

This is a very loose fitting hoodie with a deep hood and extra-long sleeves.

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size and blending – Choose your size using the chest measurement from the size chart. As this is a very loose fitting garment it is unlikely that you will need to grade for your waist and hip if they are in a different size. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your chest measurement to the size for your waist, then to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the hem using your hip measurement size. If you need to adjust for height, e.g., if your child measures a size 5-6 chest and a 7-8 length. You’ll cut print both sizes, cut the 5-6 size with the length of the 7-8 so that the pattern will be long enough. If your child is nearer the bottom measurement for height you will need to remove length from the bodice and sleeves hem.
• Sleeve:
  • Length – This sleeve is meant to have a scrunched look. If you prefer it to be shorter, add/remove length in the middle of the Sleeve. 
  • Bicep adjustment – Check your bicep measurement in the chart above. If you need to add into the bicep of the Sleeve, follow our free tutorial.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. 
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the Front, Back, 1x Sleeve, and Cuff. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Your hoodie can be made in a variety of types of fabric. A cozy stretch/knit fabric of any weight. A fluffy woven fabric. Whatever makes you happy and is wide enough to cut your size. If using a 4-way knit fabric, check length before hemming as it is likely to grow. 

A lighter weight fabric will drape more than a heavier weight. Great examples are textured knit, sweater knits, medium weight jersey, ponte, scuba, stretch velour, French terry, fleece, flannel, and cuddle fabrics. 

NOTE – The Hoodie Blanket is a great project to use thrifted quilts and blankets, or to upcycle loved blankets that are ready for a new life.

TIP – If you are using a textured knit, especially a cable knit, they may seem smaller in width. Let it hang, then steam it and let it cool before cutting. This should help it expand to its full width.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.

** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• OPTIONAL clear elastic – ¼ or ⅜ inch to provide additional support to the shoulder seams. 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins or clips, rotary cutter or scissors, tape measure or ruler, disappearing ink pen, fabric marker, or tailors chalk, cutting mat. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – The cut chart below is for one Hoodie Blanket.

NOTE – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold

Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold

Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold

Hood – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)

OPTIONAL Kangaroo Pocket – Fabric cut 2 on fold

OPTIONAL Curved Pocket – Fabric cut 2 on fold

OPTIONAL Front Band – Fabric cut 1 on fold

OPTIONAL Back Band – Fabric cut 1 on fold

OPTIONAL Cuff – Fabric cut 2

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included  

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. OPTIONAL POCKET – Place both Pocket pieces right sides together, aligning all raw edges. Clip and stitch, leaving a 1- to 2-inch gap along bottom edge. Trim the seam allowance and cut the corners of the Pocket off. Turn the Pocket right side out and press. OPTIONAL: Top stitch across both diagonals only. Matching centers, align bottom edge of Pocket with marking on Front. Top stitch in place along bottom curved edge of curved pocket, or bottom, sides, and top edge of kangaroo pocket. CURVED POCKET – Optionally, add a ½ inch of tacking stitches at the top, center of the Pocket. 
2. SHOULDERS – Place Front and Back right sides together, aligning the shoulder. Stitch. Repeat on the other shoulder. 
3. SLEEVE – Right sides together, align sleeve along Hoodie Blanket, matching center mark to shoulder seam and stitch. 
4. SIDE SEAMS – Align side seam, right sides together, from end of sleeve to hem, and stitch. Repeat for second side. 
5. HOOD – Right sides together, align and sew back, curved edge of Hood outer. Repeat for Hood lining. Right sides together, align Hood outer to Hood lining along front edge and stitch. Turn right sides out, press, and align bottom, raw edge. Right sides together, match center back of Hoodie Blanket to center back seam of Hood. Match along edge without stretching, overlapping the Hood at center front, and stitch in place. 
6. OPTIONAL CUFF – Fold the Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Fold in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Find and mark the quarter points of the Cuff and Sleeve. Align Cuff to end of Sleeve, right sides together, matching raw edges, seams, and quarter points. Stitch. Repeat for the other Sleeve. 
7. OPTIONAL BAND – Right sides together, align Band Front to Band Back, matching short edges. Stitch. Repeat for second short end. Fold in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Find and mark the center front and back of both Band and Hoodie Blanket. Align Buff to bottom of Hoodie Blanket, right sides together, matching raw edges, seams and marked points. Stitch.
8. OPTIONAL HEM – Fold sleeve hem ½ inch to wrong side. Topstitch. Repeat for second sleeve and bottom hem. 

Congratulations, your Hoodie Blanket is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rphoodieblanket.

 Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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