Children's Off the Shoulder Top & Dress

Children’s Off the Shoulder Top & Dress

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The Off The Shoulder Top & Dress is a straight style, designed to be fitted at the bust and then flow down over the hips to the hem. The pattern is packed full of options, three neckline finishes; a gathered frill, or band, both of which come in two separate lengths, and a plain elastic finish; short sleeves, long bishop sleeves, and a long bell sleeve; and it can be made in six different lengths; crop, top, mid-thigh, knee, mid-calf, and maxi. It is a pattern that can be dressed up or down and made for year round wear.

Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes Children’s sizes 12 months to 12 years.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

12mo - 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

Finished Garment Measurements (in INCHES)

This top and dress is meant to be fitted at the bust. The crop top length is intended to fit above the natural waist and fall at the first rib. The dress will skim over the hips, flowing straight down to the hem. 

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking a size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms, and upper back are likely to fit well. Then, grade out or into the correct waist size.
• Grading – You may notice on some pattern pieces that there is a slight shape difference. This is to ensure that, with such a wide size range, the pattern can still offer a great fit. Just measure and print the size/s you require. You’ll still need to add any personal adjustments you know suit your body best (such as a full bust adjustment or bicep adjustment), and for this we highly recommend making a muslin.
• Height adjustment – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement. You will need to adjust the Bodice and Skirt pieces for height.
  • NOTE – Be sure to choose the armscye that corresponds with the child’s height.
• Bicep adjustment – Check your measurement against the finished garment measurement above. If your measurement is larger, follow our free tutorial to adjust your sleeve. The sleeve is intended to fit snug, but not tight. Please refer to the finished measurement chart to choose the sleeve width that will be comfortable for your child.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin first. This is how I would recommend you muslin this dress:
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out all pieces. Label each with tailors chalk or a fabric pen.
  • Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue on to sewing your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces…. It’s like having a tailor-made garment so they’re a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
  • If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.  

Fabric – Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; fabric such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal, cotton lycra, ponte, poly rayon spandex will all work. 

Your fabric will need to have at least 20 – 30 % stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.4 – 2.6 inches.

The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your garment maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size. 

A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2-way stretch (only stretches in one direction). 

Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.

** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Elastic ¼ or 3/8 inch for neckline and optional Bishop sleeve. Approximately 1.25 yard is enough for all sizes.
  • NOTE – If using a heavier fabric or making a mid-thigh, knee, mid-calf, or maxi length you will want to use ⅜ inch elastic for the neckline.
• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Front Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold

Back Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold

OPTIONAL Short/Bell/Bishop Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold

OPTIONAL Tall Band – Fabric cut 2 on fold

OPTIONAL Short Band – Fabric cut 2 on fold

OPTIONAL Tall Frill – Fabric cut 2 on fold

OPTIONAL Short Frill – Fabric cut 2 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Fabric Tips

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fiber. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Hem – ½ inch 

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. BODICE – Place a Sleeve right sides together onto the Front Bodice, matching the armscye. Pin and stitch. Repeat for second Sleeve and the Back Bodice. Place Front and Back right sides together, matching side underarm seams. Pin. Stitch. Repeat for other side. 
2. OPTIONAL FRILL – Place Frills right sides together, matching short edges. Pin and stitch. Fold the Frill in half, wrong sides together, aligning long edges. Find and mark quarter points of the Frill. Stitch gathering stitches breaking at quarter points. Align the Frill along the inside top edge of the Bodice, matching quarter points. Gather Frill to match Bodice. Pin. Stitch. Understitch to Bodice. Overlap elastic ½ inch, pin. Stitch. Mark quarter points of elastic and top edge of Bodice. Place elastic inside Bodice at top edge, matching quarter points. Pin. Stitch. Turn elastic to inside of Bodice. Topstitch. 
3. OPTIONAL BAND – Place Band right sides together, matching short edges. Pin and stitch. Fold the Band in half, wrong sides together, aligning long edges. Find and mark quarter points of the Band and the top of the Bodice. Align the Band along the inside top edge of the Bodice, matching quarter points. Pin. Stitch. Overlap elastic ½ inch, pin. Stitch. Mark quarter points of elastic and top edge of Bodice. Place elastic inside Bodice at top edge, matching quarter points. Pin. Stitch. Turn elastic to inside of Bodice. Topstitch.
4. OPTIONAL ELASTIC – Overlap elastic ½ inch, pin. Stitch. Mark quarter points of elastic and top edge of Bodice. Place elastic inside Bodice at top edge, matching quarter points. Pin. Stitch. Fold top edge of Bodice to the inside the width of the elastic twice. Pin. Topstitch. 
5. OPTIONAL BISHOP SLEEVE – Finish raw edges of Sleeve. Fold Sleeve hem ¾ inch to the wrong side. Pin. Topstitch leaving a 1-inch gap. Feed elastic through casing. Overlap ends of elastic ½ inch. Pin. Stitch. Pin gap closed. Stitch. Repeat for second Sleeve. 
6. OPTIONAL SHORT OR BELL SLEEVE – Finish raw edges of Sleeve. Fold Sleeve hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Pin. Topstitch. Repeat for second Sleeve. 
7. HEM – Finish raw edge. Fold hem ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch.

Congratulations, your Off The Shoulder Top & Dress is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpofftheshoulder.

 Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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