Children's Phoebe Party Dress

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch.

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the waist panels won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Staystitch the Center Front Skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching out towards each side seam, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the Center Back Skirt pieces at the waist following the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch a Side Front and Back Skirt pair at the waist following the direction of the arrows. 

Repeat for the other pair.

Staystitch the Center Bust (main and lining pair) pieces along the neckline and the Side Bust seam line, in the direction of the arrows.

Repeat for the other pair.

If you would like to add modesty panels into the bodice skip to step 3. For a bodice without modesty panels follow below.

With the right sides together, pin the main Center Bust to the main Side Bust along the curved edge, matching notches.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

NOTE – This will now be called the Front Bodice.

Pin the Front Bodice to the Back Bodice at the shoulder seam, right sides together.

NOTE – Make sure that you have the correct Back Bodice piece. The side marked underarm should be on the same side as the side bodice.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.6 for the lining pieces.

Place the main Bodice and Bodice lining right sides together. Pin along the neckline and armscye edges.

Stitch along both edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Trim the seam allowance on either side of the shoulder seam to help reduce bulk.

Turn the Bodice right side out and press.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.10 for the other side of the Bodice.

If you have sewn the Plunge Neckline bodice skip to step 4. 

With the right sides together, pin the Main Center Bust to the Main Side Bust along the curved edge, matching notches.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

NOTE – You can clip through the staystitching.

Press the seam allowance open.  

TIP – Use a tailor’s ham to press the curved seam. A tailor’s ham is a tightly stuffed cushion that is used to press curved seams. If you don’t have one you can improvise with a tightly rolled-up towel in a tea towel or pillowcase.

NOTE – This will now be called the Front Bodice.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the other main Center Bust and Side Bust pieces.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 for the Center Bust and Side Bust lining pieces.

Fold the Center Panel in half, wrong sides together, matching the two shorter edges. Pin.

Baste all the way around the raw edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Pin the Center Panel to the Center Front Bust, right sides together, aligning the bottom edges. Continue pinning along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The bottom edges will not match to the Center Panel waist edge.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining right sides together. Pin together along the neckline edge.

NOTE – The Center Panel will now be sandwiched between the main and lining Bodice pieces.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn the Bodice right side out and press.

Repeat steps 3.8 to 3.12 attaching the other side of the Center Panel to the opposite main and lining Bodice pieces.

Your main and lining Bodice pieces will now be joined together by the Center Modesty Panel and along the neckline.

Repeat steps 3.6 to 3.7 for the Side Panels.

Pin the Side Panel to the Main Side Bust, right sides together, matching the folded edge of the Side Panel to the pattern marking on the Side Bust. Continue pinning along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The bottom edges will not match to the Side Panel waist edge.

NOTE – You will be pinning the Side Panel to the main Side Bust. Do not pin it to the lining/interlining layer.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 3.15 to 3.16 to attach the other Side Panel to the other side of the Bodice.

You are going to use a burrito roll method to enclose the main and lining. With the main Bodice facing right side up, grab the main and lining side seam (either side) and roll the Bodice towards the other side seam. Continue rolling it tightly until you reach the other side seam.

Take the Bodice lining of the side seam you have rolled towards and flip it over the rolled up piece so that you can match the unrolled lining side seam to the unrolled main side seam.

Pin.

NOTE – Check the Side Panel is out of the way and facing toward the middle of the Bodice. You will be stitching through all three layers (or four if you have added interlining).

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Reach into the Bodice and pull the rolled-up part out, then continue pulling until the Bodice is right side out. Press. 

Repeat steps 3.18 to 3.20 for the other side of the Bodice.

Place the main Back Bodice onto the Side Panel, right sides together. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the Back Bodice lining onto the main Back Bodice, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Side Panel will now be sandwiched between the main and lining Back Bodice pieces.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn the Back Bodice right side out. Press.

Repeat steps 3.22 to 3.26 to attach the other main and lining Back Bodice to the other Side Panel.

You will be following the same burrito roll method as step 3.18. Take one side end of the Back Bodice and roll it towards the opposite Back Bodice.

Continue rolling until the Back Lining can be pinned to the Back Bodice with the right side together and the rolled-up bodice in between them. 

TIP – You will need to roll the bodice as tightly as possible because it can get bulky. It helps to fold the rolled-up section down into the middle of the bodice so that it is not in the way when you sew the next seam.

Flip the Back Bodice lining over the rolled up Bodice, right sides together, matching the main Back Bodice. 

Pin the Front and Back shoulder seams together (main and lining). Then continue pinning the Back Bodice lining and main Back Bodice piece together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the corners to prevent bulk at the shoulder seam.

Reach inside and pull the Bodice right sides out.  

Press.

Repeat steps 3.28 to 3.32 for the other side of the Back Bodice.

Place a main Side Back Waistband onto the main Front Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Pay attention to which edge of the back piece is attached into the side seam, as well as the top and bottom of the waistband pieces. Since the pieces are not quite rectangular in shape it is important to make sure you have them oriented correctly when sewing them together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 with the other main Side Back Waistband.

Press the seam allowances open.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for the Front Waistband and Side Back lining pieces.

Place the Bodice onto the main Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

TIP – Check to make sure that everything is lined up correctly before basting together in the next step. The Waistband side seams will match up the Front and Back Bodice, or with the points on the Modesty Side Panels (if added).

NOTE – Some of our images shown include the Shoulder Ruffle from the Phoebe Add-On, but the steps are the same.

Baste using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Typically when basting, a smaller seam allowance would be used. Using a ½ inch seam allowance at this step will help ensure the seams points are lined up precisely. A basting stitch will allow the stitches to be removed later if they are visible. 

Place the Waistband lining onto the Bodice, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Bodice will be sandwiched in between the main and lining Waistbands.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – You will be stitching on top of the basting stitch from step 4.7.

Fold the Center Back Waistband piece in half length ways. Press.

Open out the Side Back Waistband main and lining, so they lay flat, with right sides facing up.

Open up the Center Back Waistband and place it onto the Side Back Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Center Back Waistband piece will be continuous along both the main and lining Side Back Waistband pieces.  

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance. 

Repeat steps 4.11 to 4.13 to attach the other side of the Center Back Waistband.  

Flip the Waistband down so that both lining and main are wrong sides together and press the seam.

If you are sewing the maxi length skirt with optional godets, please follow step 6. 

The skirt is made up of seven pieces. Starting at the back, the order of the panels is: Center Back Skirt, Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Side Back Skirt, and then Center Back Skirt. Then stitch up the center back seam.

NOTE – You may notice that the Skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as it is sewn to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that the hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching the seam, lay the skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Center Back Skirt and Side Back Skirt together. Pin down the side seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Side Back Skirt, and then Center Back Skirt. Press all seams to the side. Leave the Center Back open. Then skip to step 7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt pieces together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Place a Center Back Skirt onto a Side Back Skirt, wrong sides together (right sides outwards). Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to a Side Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.  

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.5 to attach a Center Front Skirt to the Side Front Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to the Center Front Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to a Side Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.5 to attach a Side Back Skirt to the Center Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step. 

Then repeat to stitch up the center back seam. You will not have a full circle skirt.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the Skirt from center back seam to center back seam.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

The optional godets can only be added to the maxi length skirt. If you have sewn the skirt without godets, skip to step 7.

The skirt has seven skirt pieces and three godet pieces that are attached together. You will be attaching the Center Back Godet to each Center Back Skirt, then attaching a Side Back Godet to the other sides of the Center Back Skirt. Then you attach the Side Back Godets to a Side Back Skirt, the Side Back Skirt to a Side Front Skirt and finally each Side Front Skirt to either side of the Center Front Skirt.

The order in which the Skirt pieces are sewn together is vital to getting precise points at the top of each Godet. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – We do not recommend using a serger for this step. You will need a regular sewing machine to achieve the crisp points for the godets.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt pieces together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Place the Center Back Godet onto one of the Center Back Skirts, wrong sides together (right sides outwards). Pin

Start stitching ½ inch from the top of the Center Back Godet, down to the bottom raw edge, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Stitching from ½ inch down will help to get a precise point at the top of the Godet when we attach it to the Side Back Skirt.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

TIP – Press your seam allowance to one side first.  This makes it a bit easier to get that seam line right in the center of the fold.  

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 to attach the Center Back Godet to the other Center Back Skirt.

Flip one Center Back Skirt over the other so wrong side are together (right sides facing out). Starting from the stitching, pin together up to the waist.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are only stitching through the Center Back Skirts. Do not stitch the Center Back Godet. Carefully move it out of the way so it won’t be stitched into the seam. 

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn wrong sides out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the center of the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Starting from the previous stitching, pin together up to the waist. Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge, then press.

From the wrong side, stitch a line of zig zag stitches across the unstitched top of the Center Back Godet. Trim the excess.

NOTE – Do not stitch through the Center Back Skirt pieces. You are only stitching across the point of the Center Back Godet.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.12 to attach the Side Back Godets to the other side of each of the Center Back Skirts.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.11 to attach the Side Back Godets to the Side Back Skirts. 

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.11 to attach each Side Back Skirt to each Side Front Skirt.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.11 to attach each Side Front Skirt to each side of the Center Front Skirt.

The skirt will now be one full piece.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the Skirt from center back seam to center back seam.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

This step is the same for both Skirt options.

With the right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the outer waistband to the top edge of the Skirt, matching all notches. The side seams of the waistband will match up with the seam between the side panels of the Skirt. 

Gather the skirt between the markings until it matches the width of the waistband. To do this, very gently pull on both of the bobbin threads until the Skirt matches up with the waistband.

You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers so that it is evenly gathered.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the gathering threads.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out.

Press the seam allowance of the Waistband Lining under ½ inch.

Fold the center back Waistband Lining down so that it is wrong sides together with the Outer Waistband. 

Make sure that the raw edges of the Skirt are folded upwards towards the Waistband so that they are all caught inside when you pin the Waistband down. The raw edges should all be hidden.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the center back Waistband Lining to the Skirt. If you don’t know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps. Your fabric will be folded under ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.

Insert the needle in the seam allowance of the skirt.

Insert the needle into the waistband lining, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut. 

Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the seam allowance of the skirt and pull the thread through. Continue to stitch along the waistband, alternating from the seam allowance of the skirt to the waistband lining. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.

When you reach the end of the center back waistband, knot the thread.

Attach a safety pin to one end of your elastic. With the dress wrong side out, lift the bodice lining up and insert the elastic into the top channel. Feed the elastic through the channel until there is ¼ inch left outside of the channel. 

Stitch over the elastic to hold it in place. You can do this by stitching directly over the seam between the center back bodice and the side back bodice.

NOTE – You will not have pulled the elastic all the way through the channel yet, just leave the safety pinned end inside the channel while you stitch down the left side of the elastic.

TIP – Try to stitch the elastic as centered in the channel as possible.

Continue feeding the elastic through the channel until the safety pin comes out the other side and there is ¼ inch of elastic coming out of the channel.

Stitch over the elastic, just as you did in step 7.8

Pin the rest of the bodice lining to the skirt, all the way around the waist of the dress, catching the skirt seam allowance.

Use a slipstitch to sew the rest of the bodice lining to the skirt seam allowance, following steps 7.5 to 7.9. 

OPTIONAL – Add topstitching across the elastic back to create a faux channel look and prevent the elastic from twisting.  

This hemming option is not suitable for the maxi dress length with godets. If you are sewing this option, I recommend sewing a horsehair braid hem or blind stitch hem. Follow step 9 or 10 for this option.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge along the bottom edge.  Do not remove any fabric.  Press 1 inch to the wrong side. Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Your Phoebe Party Dress is now finished!

Adding horsehair braid will add structure to your hemline.

If you are not adding optional horsehair braid and would prefer a blind stitch hem, skip to step 10.

Lay the skirt right sides facing up. Match the horsehair braid edge to the raw edge of the skirt.

Pin in place.

Topstitch along the bottom raw edge as close to the edge of the horsehair as possible.

Fold the hem by the width of the horsehair braid to the wrong side. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the edge of the fabric.

Your Phoebe Party Dress is now finished!

As your hem will be almost invisible, this hemming option will give your dress a professional finish. A blind hem can be sewn by hand, or by machine, if your machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot. Follow below to stitch by machine.

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Fold the hem under the fabric (towards the right side), so that just ¼ inch of the hem is showing. Pin.

Slide the fabric under the foot with the folded edge resting against the inside edge of the right side of the foot. 

With the blind hem stitch selected, start stitching, keeping the fold in line with the inside edge of the foot.

NOTE – Line up the hem, so when the needle moves to the left, it is able to just catch a thread or two of the skirt fabric.  

TIP – This stitch is best done with thread that matches the fabric very closely, with a fresh, sharp needle. It is very helpful to practice this technique on scrap fabric before attempting it on your gorgeous skirt.

Your Phoebe Party Dress is now finished!