Children's Rain Boot Liner

We recommend using embroidery floss for these hand stitches. Use two strands from a six-strand embroidery floss so when both strands are threaded through the needle and folded over, the two strands will become 4 strands. 

Satin stitches are flat stitches used to fill in a shape with smooth straight stitches giving a satin-like look.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric piece.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Stitch around the entire shape, following the ‘Backstitch’ directions above, creating an outline.

Bring the needle to the right side of the fabric at the outer edge of the stitching done in step 1.2 near the middle of your shape.

Move the needle across the shape, pushing the needle down through the fabric on the outside of the shape. 

NOTE – A Satin Stitch can be stitched straight across or on an angle which gives a different look to the stitches.

NOTE – As you form the stitches, make sure not to twist the strands so the strands stay flat.

Bring the needle back to the right side next to the first stitch. Push the needle back down next to the first stitch at the outer edge of the stitching from step 1.2. 

TIP – The stitches should always begin on one side of the shape and end on the other side. Although it is tempting to save thread by starting the next stitch next to a completed stitch, this creates gaps instead of a solid satin look.

Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.5 stitching along one side of the shape.

Bring the needle back to the first stitch. Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.6 to complete the opposite side of the shape.

This stitch is used to create small decorative knots. Don’t let French knots scare you, they aren’t as scary as you may think.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces.

Push the needle to the underside of the fabric and then bring it to the right side of the fabric at the point you want to add the French knot. Pull the thread all the way to the right side.

Working close to where the thread comes out of the fabric, wrap the thread around the needle three times.

NOTE – If you wrap the thread more than three times, the French knots can become loose or untidy.

Carefully tighten the thread on the needle and pull the threads together on the needle. Holding the threads taut on the needle, push the needle into the fabric close to where you brought the needle to the right side of the fabric. Slowly pull the needle through to the underside. This will create a French knot on the right side of the fabric.

NOTE – Do not push the thread back through the same hole as the working thread. Push it through just next to the original hole, leaving a little space of fabric between.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for each French knot.

TIP – Cluster these together to create a dense, textured filling, or scatter them loosely to create a lightness to your embroidery. Creating individual French knots can give your design a little punctuation.

Backstitches are used for outlining or adding fine detail. 

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.

Push the needle back into the same hole as step 3.2, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.

Repeat steps 3.2 to 3.4 creating a length of backstitches as desired.

A running stitch is a straight line of stitches created by pushing the needle and thread through the fabric without back stitching. These stitches can be far apart or closer together. This stitch will be seen on both side of your fabric.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces.

From the inside of the fabric, push the needle to the underside of the fabric, pulling the thread all the way through the fabric.

Moving the needle about ⅛ inch to ¼ inch forward, insert the needle from the underside of the fabric and pull the thread to the right side.

Move the needle forward about ⅛ to ¼ inch and then put the needle back into the fabric at about the same distance, ⅛ to ¼ inch from where you brought the needle up. 

TIP – Instead of stitching each Running Stitch individually, the stitches can be taken more than one at a time by weaving the needle in and out of the fabric. This makes Running Stitches quick to sew.

Repeat the stitches across until the desired length is reached. 

⅜ inch seam allowance included  – Top stitching ⅛ inch 

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and animal faces (if not embroidering) to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk. 

TIP – Use a disappearing ink pen for polar fleece fabric as tailors chalk won’t work well.

Fold the Foot on the fold line (the one you used when cutting) right sides together and pin the heel.

Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. 

If using a serger, use a wide eye needle to thread the tail back through the stitches.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 with the second Boot.

Place the Foot and Leg right sides together at the ankle. Pin.

Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 with the second Foot and Leg.

Pin the raw edges on the front of your Rain Boot Liner right sides together (along entire length from foot to top edge).

Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.2 with the second Rain Boot Liner.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL animal heads:

• Follow step 4 for the Frog
• Skip to step 5 for the Cat
• Skip to step 6 for the Dog 
• Skip to step 7 for the Dragon 

If you only want to add a Cuff, skip to step 8.

EYES: The Frog Eye will be stitched together using a running stitch. Thread the needle with matching thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread. 

Put the needle through a tiny bit of fabric on the right side of the Eye. 

Fold the fabric to the wrong side by ⅛ inch and follow the ‘Running Stitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above, stitching around the circle. Finish just before the knot.

Gently pull on the stitches slightly to tighten up the circle, but not too tight as you need to add stuffing.

Put a small amount of stuffing into the center of the Eye. Pull your thread to close the opening.

TIP – If you do not have stuffing at home, you can use a little piece of batting torn into pieces or cut leftover fabric into really small pieces.

Stitch across the opening, going back and forth, to close the Eye.

Do not cut the thread. Leave it in the needle so you can stitch the Eye to the Head later.

If you are drawing the pupil, follow below. 

If you want to embroider the pupil, skip to step 4.8.

TIP – If you are using a polar or other ’fury’ fabric it will be easier to embroider. 

Using a fabric marker, draw and color in the Pupil on each Eye. 

Skip to step 4.11.

Thread another needle with contrasting thread to create the pupil of the Eye and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Satin Stitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the pupil onto the Eye.  

Finish the last stitch on the back of the Eye, make a knot and cut your thread. 

NOTE – You are only cutting the thread of the pupil thread.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.9 for the second Eye.

HEAD: Iron fusible webbing onto the Frog Head using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Fold the Cuff in half widthwise to find the center of the Cuff. Mark the center.

Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. 

Place the Head in the center of the Cuff (shown by your previous pin) about ⅛ – ¼ inch above the folded edge. Press.

NOTE – If you drew the face markings onto the Head in the preparation step, check that the bottom of the Head is nearest the folded edge of the Cuff.

Unfold the Cuff. Stitch around the Head using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – For a non-fraying fabric you can use straight stitch, zigzag or any other decorative stitch you like. 

If you have drawn the nose and mouth with fabric marker skip to step 4.18.

If you want to embroider the nose, follow below.

NOSE: The nose will be stitched on using a ‘French knot’. Thread the needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘French knot’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the nose onto the Head.  

Repeat step 4.15 to stitch the second nostril.

Finish on the wrong side, make a knot and cut your thread.

The mouth will be stitched together using a backstitch to embroider. Thread the needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Backstitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the mouth onto the Head.  

Finish your stitch on the wrong side, make a knot and cut the thread. 

Hand stitch each Eye to the top of the Head.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.18 to add a Frog on the other Rain Boot Liner. 

Skip to step 8.

HEAD: Iron fusible webbing onto the Cat Head piece using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Place the Ears onto the wrong side of the Head, approximately ¼ inch from the raw edge. Pin.

Fold the Cuff half widthwise to find the center of the Cuff. Mark the center.

Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. 

Place the Head in the center of the Cuff (shown by your previous pin) about ⅛ inch up from the folded edge. Press to fuse in place.

NOTE – If you drew the face markings onto the Head in the preparation step, check that the bottom of the Head is nearest the folded edge of the Cuff.

Stitch around the Head using ⅛ inch seam allowance. This will stitch the Ears in place as well.

TIP – For a non-fraying fabric you can use straight stitch, zigzag or any other decorative stitch you like.

If you have drawn the face markings in the preparation step, your Cat is finished. Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 to attach a Cat to the second Rain Boot Liner.

If you want to embroider the face, follow below.

TIP – If you are using a polar or other ’fury’ fabric it will be easier to embroider. 

EYES: The eyes will be stitched on using a French knot. Thread the needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘French knot’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the eyes onto the Head.  

Finish the French knot on the wrong side, make a knot and cut your thread. 

FACE: The face will be stitched on using a backstitch to embroider. Thread the needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Backstitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the face onto the Head. 

Finish the stitches on the wrong side, make a knot there and cut the thread.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.8 to attach a Cat to the second Rain Boot Liner.

Skip to step 8.

TIP – Pin down the Ears of the Cat so they will not get caught when attaching the Cuff. 

Fold the Cuff half widthwise to find the center of the Cuff. Mark the center.

Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. 

Using the Dog face template, draw the face at the center of the Cuff, using a disappearing ink pen.

NOTE – Check that the top of the Head is nearest the raw edge of the Cuff.

SPOTS: Iron fusible webbing onto the Spots using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Place Spots onto the Dog Head as per the markings made. Press.

OPTIONAL: Topstitch the Spots using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

If you have drawn the eyes and nose with fabric marker skip to step 8.

If you want to embroider the eyes and nose, follow below.

TIP – If you are using a polar or other ’fury’ fabric it will be easier to embroider. 

EYES: Thread another needle with contrasting thread to create the eyes and nose and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Satin Stitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider both eyes and the nose as per your markings.  

NOTE – One eye is embroidered on top of a Spot.

MOUTH: The mouth will be stitched on using a backstitch to embroider. Thread the needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Backstitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the mouth onto the Head.  

Finish your stitch on the wrong side, make a knot and cut the thread.

WHISKER SPOTS: The whisker spots will be stitched on using a French knot. Thread the needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘French knot’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the whisker spots onto the Head.

TIP – Use one strand of thread here to create really small knots.

Pin the Ears in place as per the markings.

TIP – If your fabric is too lightweight, you can cut out 2 pairs of Ears and topstitch them together using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Thread a sharp needle with contrasting thread and tie ends together in a knot.

Hand stitch a cross near the top center of each Ear.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.10 to attach a Dog to the second Rain Boot Liner.

Skip to step 8.

Fold the Cuff half widthwise to find the center of the Cuff. Mark the center.

Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. 

Draw the Dragon face at the center of the Cuff, ⅜ inch from the folded edge, using a disappearing ink pen.

NOTE – Check that the bottom of the Head is nearest the folded edge of the Cuff.

NOTE – The top of the head needs to be ⅜ inch away from the raw edge.

EYES: Iron fusible webbing onto the Eyes using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Place the Eyes onto the Cuff as per the markings. Press.

OPTIONAL: Topstitch the Eyes using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Thread another needle with contrasting thread to create the pupil of the Eye and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Satin Stitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the pupil onto the Eye. 

SPIKES: Place three Spikes onto the top half of one short edge of the right side of the Cuff. Pin.

NOTE – Place the first Spike ½ inch from the top raw edge.

Baste using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

EARS, NOSE AND MOUTH: The ears, nose and mouth will be stitched using a backstitch to embroider. Thread the needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Backstitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the details onto the Head.  

Finish your stitch on the wrong side, make a knot and cut the thread. 

WINGS: Place two matching Wings wrong sides together. Pin.

TIP – To give the Wings more shape, press the OPTIONAL interfacing to the wrong side of each Wing then place the Wings wrong sides together. 

Stitch along the marking, or as desired, to create the bones of the wing.

NOTE – We have shown two different stitch line options. 

Topstitch the outer edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 7.10 to 7.11 for the second Wing.

Place the Wings onto the Dragon face as desired. Hand stitch a few stitches at the top and bottom of the inner corner to secure them in place.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.12 to attach a Dragon to the second Rain Boot Liner.

Skip to step 8.

TIP – Pin down the Wings of the Dragon so they will not get caught when attaching the Cuff. 

Fold the Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.

Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Your Cuff will now form a circle.

Fold your Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin.

Find and pin the quarter points of your Cuff.

Find and pin the quarter points of the top edge of the Leg.

NOTE – The Leg should still be inside out.

Place the Cuff over the wrong side of the Leg, matching quarter points. Pin.

NOTE – If you have added an animal head onto the Cuff, place the animal head at the front seam.

NOTE – The animal head will be facing towards the wrong side of the Boot Liner when attaching the Cuff. 

Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Turn your Rain Boot Liner out and fold the Cuff over. 

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.8 with the second Cuff and Leg.

Your Rain Boot Liners are finished!