Children’s Stevie Jersey Skirt

The Stevie Skirt

Difficulty Level = Beginner 

The Stevie Skirt is an exceptionally fast, easy sew! It comes in above the knee, knee, midi, or maxi lengths. It’s designed specifically for knit/stretch fabrics, and just pulls on over the hips. There are no zips or other fastenings, so it is perfect for beginners.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Newborn – 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – If your child falls into different sizes for waist and height, use the skirt length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for waist measurements. Blend the two patterns together.
• Negative ease – The skirt has a slight negative ease. This means the waistband, waist, and hips will be slightly smaller than your body measurements. How much smaller will depend on where you are within your size range. This is to help keep the skirt on the body. If you prefer more or less negative ease, adjust at the side seams to make the skirt smaller or larger.
• Fit – This is a classic, slim fit, A-line skirt.  
  • If you are at the top of your size range (e.g. the maximum measurement in your size range), the finished skirt will be ½ to 1 inch smaller than your body measurement at the waist and slightly more at the hips. This difference creates the negative ease and will stop the skirt from sliding down as you are wearing it. It will be slim fitting but not tight. 
  • If you are not at the top of your size range (e.g. you are not the maximum measurement in your size range), you may need to take the skirt in slightly when you do the side seams to get the intended fit. Try the skirt on inside out and pin down the side seams to see how much you need to take in. Then, adjust as desired.
• Waistband – The skirt waistband is designed to be worn around the waist and top of the hips, starting below the belly button. This allows the skirt to sit from the top of the hips downwards.
• Length – The knee and midi length cutting lines on the skirt have been tested to be approximately accurate the tallest children within each size bracket as per the size chart. Most people will find though that the maxi length is deliberately 1-2 inches too long on all sizes. So, whether you like your maxi skirts at ankle length, skimming the ground, or skimming the ground with your favorite heels on, you can hem to your preference! If you’d prefer to know exactly how long you want your skirt before cutting into your fabric, please make a muslin as below and mark your preferred length on your pattern piece, plus a ½ inch hem allowance.
• Fabric Stretching 
  • As the skirt is made from stretch fabric, you may find that the weight of the skirt (particularly if you are doing the midi or maxi lengths), stretches the skirt while wearing it. If you find this for your fabric, hang it from a hanger for 24 hours before hemming, then, hem to your preference. If you cut any fabric from the hem, make sure to cut slightly less than you think to ensure the fabric doesn’t ‘spring up’ again once you’ve cut any excess length off.
  • For the child version, stretching of the fabric due to the weight of the skirt can result in the skirt being slightly too big (especially on the midi or maxi versions). You can either take the skirt in at the side seams, and/or insert waistband elastic in the waistband step.
• Muslin – For the best fit, make a muslin (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) using the front and back pattern pieces only to check the fit (omit the waistband).
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

• Fabric needs to be a stretch / knit fabric. 2- or 4-way stretch fabric will work. Do not use a woven fabric.
• Suggested fabrics are – Cotton lycra 5%, rayon spandex, viscose spandex, bamboo spandex, ITY jersey, cotton jersey, French terry, hacci sweater knit, interlock, and ponte. 
• Make sure to check the weight of your fabric to ensure it is opaque enough that you are happy with it when it is stretched slightly (some lighter weight knits can be slightly transparent or see through).
• We recommend at least 30% stretch. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
• The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your skirt maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• OPTIONAL 1 inch wide elastic for the waistband – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, optional overlocker, optional twin needle, tape measure, pins or clips, scissors.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) below:

Cutting Checklist: 

• Skirt – Fabric cut 2
• Waistband – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Elastic cut 1

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included

Sewing –

1. SIDE SEAMS – With the right sides together, pin the two Skirt pieces along the side seams. Serge or stitch using ⅜ inch seam allowance. Try on the Skirt to check the fit and adjust, as necessary.
2. WAISTBAND – With the right sides together, match up the short ends of the Waistband and pin. Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Press open the seam allowance, or, if you have serged the seam, press it to the side. Fold the Waistband in half with the wrong sides together. Divide your Waistband into quarters and mark with pins or clips.
3. ATTACHING THE WAISTBAND – Divide the top edge of the Skirt into quarters and mark with pins or clips. With the right sides together, pin the Waistband to the Skirt, matching each of the quarter points. Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4. HEM – Fold the bottom edge of the Skirt under ½ inch, press, and pin. Topstitch approximately ⅜ inch from the edge using a either a stretch stitch or twin needle all the way around the hem.

Congratulations, your Stevie Skirt is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpstevieskirt.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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