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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
5
Children's Tie Shoulder Tiered Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Swing into summer with a stylish silhouette! The children’s Tie Shoulder Tiered Dress is an on-trend sewing pattern with shaped bodice panels, three length options, two tie width options, and two neckline finish options.
Includes sizes 12mo-12yrs
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size using the chest measurements. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes, then grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line. Start from your chest, grading out or in, to your waist and hips.
- Height adjustments – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement. You will need to adjust the Bodice and Tier pieces for height.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this dress:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut all the pattern pieces and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen. Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Channel Elastic OPTION: ¾ inch wide Elastic – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Shirring OPTION: 75 mm wide Shirring elastic x1 spool
- Mid-calf or maxi length OPTONS: ½ inch wide double fold bias binding – approximately 2-3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- NOTE – If making the bias binding you will want 1 ¾ inch strips.
- Thread to match
- Center Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Side Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Channel Elastic OPTION:
- Front Facing – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back Facing – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Tie (Thin or Wide OPTION) – Fabric cut 4
- Mid-thigh length OPTION:
- Tier 1 – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Mid-calf length OPTION:
- Tier 1 – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Tier 2 – Fabric cut 4 on fold
- Maxi length OPTION:
- Tier 1 – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Tier 2– Fabric cut 4 on fold
- Tier 3 – Fabric cut 6 on fold
Project OverviewTie Shoulder Tiered Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Sew yourself a lovely summery dress with three length options; mid-thigh, mid-calf or maxi. The mid-thigh length has one tiered frill. The mid-calf has two tiers and the maxi has three. The front bodice panels are shaped to give more volume at the bust, swinging over the waist and hip. Choose between two tie widths and either shirred or an elastic channel neckline. The first tier is sewn on top of the bodice and is visible on the outside, the rest of the tiers are attached and finished to the wrong side of the dress.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center front to bottom length
Tie length
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
Thin OPTION
Wide OPTION
12 – 18 mos
30.0
23.0
25.7
13.5
17.3
21.5
10.6
14.5
18 – 24 mos
31.0
24.0
26.7
15.0
18.5
23.0
11.0
15.0
2 – 3 yrs
33.0
25.5
28.5
17.0
21.3
26.2
11.0
15.0
3 – 4 yrs
34.0
26.5
30.0
19.3
24.0
29.3
11.5
15.7
5 – 6 yrs
36.0
27.5
32.0
23.5
28.6
34.4
12.0
16.3
7 – 8 yrs
38.0
28.5
34.0
26.0
31.6
38.0
12.2
16.6
9 – 10 yrs
39.0
29.5
37.0
27.0
32.7
39.0
12.6
17.1
11 – 12 yrs
41.0
30.5
39.0
29.0
35.0
41.3
13.0
17.7
Fitting NotesThe dress is very loose fitting over the waist and hips.
Materials and ToolsFabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric such as a bubble crepe, viscose challis, rayon, cotton lawn, cotton voile, silk, silk crepe, crepe de chine, or silk satin will drape. If you use a fabric that doesn’t have drape, this will affect the shaping of the dress. You want to use a fabric that has a lovely soft, drape in order to achieve the intended look.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Bodice & Ties
Tier 1 (All lengths)
Tier 2 (Mid-calf & maxi)
Tier 3 (Maxi)
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
1.25
N/A
N/A
N/A
7 – 8 yrs
1.25
N/A
N/A
N/A
9 – 10 yrs
1.25
N/A
N/A
N/A
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
N/A
N/A
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Bodice & Ties
Tier 1 (All lengths)
Tier 2 (Mid-calf & maxi)
Tier 3 (Maxi)
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.25
0.50
0.75
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.25
0.50
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.50
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.50
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Dress lengths Tie OPTIONS Mid-thigh Mid-calf Maxi Wide Thin Optional Channel Elastic 12 mos – 24 mos 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 11-15 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 11-19 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 11-22 8-10 11-12 11-13 2 – 4 yrs 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 11-15 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 11-19 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 11-22 8-10 11-12 11-13 5 – 6 yrs 2-15 2-19 2-22 8-10 11-12 11-13 7 – 8 yrs 2-16 2-19 2-22 8-10 11-12 11-13 9 – 12 yrs 2-16 2-19 2-23 8-10 11-12 11-13 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Dress lengths Tie OPTIONS Mid-thigh Mid-calf Maxi Wide Thin OPTIONAL: Channel Elastic 12 mos – 24 mos 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 12-14, 18-19 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 12-19 11, 21 11, 21 19-20 2 – 3 yrs 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 12-14, 18-19 2-3, 5-6, 8-9, 12-19 11, 21 11, 21 19-20 3 – 4 yrs 2-10, 12-13, 18-20 2-10, 12-14, 18-20 2-10, 12-20 11, 21 11, 21 19-20 5 – 6 yrs 2-10, 12-13, 18-20 2-10, 12-15, 18-20 2-10, 12-20 11, 21 11, 21 19-20 7 – 12 yrs 2-10, 12-14, 18-20 2-10, 12-15, 18-20 2-10, 12-20 11, 21 11, 21 19-20 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Thin Tie OPTION
(Cut 4)Wide Tie OPTION
(Cut 4)ALL lengths: Tier 1
(Cut 2)Mid-Thigh & Maxi lengths: Tier 2 (Cut 4)
Maxi length: Tier 3
(Cut 6)Channel elastic OPTION (Elastic cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
2.0
11.6
3.0
15.5
23.0
4.5
40.0
4.7
37.0
5.2
0.75
16.0
18 – 24 mos
2.0
12.0
3.0
16.0
24.0
4.5
41.0
4.7
38.5
5.2
0.75
17.0
2 – 3 yrs
2.0
12.0
3.0
16.0
26.0
5.1
42.6
5.3
40.0
6.0
0.75
19.0
3 – 4 yrs
2.0
12.5
3.0
16.7
27.0
5.5
44.0
5.7
41.3
6.2
0.75
20.0
5 – 6 yrs
2.0
13.0
3.0
17.3
29.0
6.0
46.0
6.2
43.3
6.7
0.75
22.0
7 – 8 yrs
2.0
13.2
3.0
17.6
31.5
6.3
48.4
6.6
46.0
7.1
0.75
24.0
9 – 10 yrs
2.0
13.6
3.0
18.1
33.5
6.5
50.6
6.7
48.0
7.2
0.75
25.0
11 – 12 yrs
2.0
14.0
3.0
18.7
36.0
6.8
53.0
7.0
50.0
7.5
0.75
27.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- LABELS – Transfer all labels.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create bias binding for the mid-calf and maxi length options.
- BODICE – Use a French seam to stitch a Side Front to either side of the Center Front. Repeat to stitch the Side Fronts to a Back. Repeat to stitch the center back seam.
- SHIRRED OPTION – Press top edge of Bodice ¼ inch to the wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch. Stitch the first row with shirring elastic approximately ½ inch from the top edge. Stitch another three rows. Skip to step 4.
- ELASTIC CHANNEL NECKLINE OPTION – Stitch Front and Back Facing together at short sides. Press seam open. Press bottom edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch. With the Bodice right side up, lay the Facing so the right sides are together, aligning side seams and top edges. Stitch. Fold Facing to wrong side of Bodice. Press. Stitch ½ inch from the top edge and another row at bottom of elastic, leaving a ½ to 1 inch gap. Thread elastic, overlapping by ½ inch. Stitch. Stitch gap closed.
- TIES – Fold Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin one short edge and the long raw edge. Stitch. Trim corner. Turn right way out. Fold open short edge ½ inch inside. Press. Repeat for the other three Ties. Place a Tie onto the seam of Side Front. Pin. Repeat. Place a third Tie onto Back approximately ⅜ inch in from Side Front seam. Pin. Repeat. Stitch.
- BODICE HEM – Press bottom edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch.
- TIER 1 – Use a French seam to stitch the short sides of Tier 1 together. Press top edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch. Gather stitch at ⅜ inch and ¼ inch. Find and mark the quarter points on Tier 1 and the Bodice hem. Place Tier 1 with the wrong side facing the right side of the Bodice, matching quarter points then gently gather between quarters. Stitch. Remove gathering stitches. Press bottom edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch.
- TIER 2 AND 3 – Use French seam to stitch all four Tier 2 pieces together. Gather stitch ⅛ inch from the top and then approximately ¼ inches. Find and mark quarters of Tier 1 and Tier 2. Place top edge of Tier 2 onto bottom edge of Tier 1, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin. Gently gather between quarter points. Stitch. Remove gathering stitches. Press seam up. MAXI LENGTH: Repeat on Tier 3. Bind raw edges of Tiers. Press bottom edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem – ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Labels
Transfer all labels to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold bias binding to finish the seams of the mid-calf and maxi length dresses.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
1 . Bodice1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Center Front and a Side Front pieces right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the other Side Front. Serge Back pieces to Side Front, just as you did with Front. Serge Back pieces together at the center back seam. If you are doing the Shirred OPTION, skip to step 2. If you are doing the Elastic Channel OPTION, skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to stitch the Bodice together. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
1.1Lay the Center Front wrong sides facing up. Place a Side Front wrong sides together. Pin.
1.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim your seam allowance in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. Try to trim your seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out.
1.4Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
1.5Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
1.6Turn right side out and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 to attach the second Side Front onto the other side of the Center Front.
1.7Stitch a Side Front to a Back piece using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
1.8Repeat step 1.7 to attach the other Side Front and Back pieces.
1.9Stitch the Back pieces together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
If you are doing the Shirred OPTION, follow below. If you are doing the Elastic Channel OPTION, skip to step 3.
2 . Shirred Neckline OPTION2.1Fold the top edge of the Bodice ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
2.2Fold another ¼ inch, enclosing all raw edges. Press. Pin in place.
2.3Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge.
2.4Now you are going to do the shirring. If you are familiar with how to do shirring, skip ahead to step 2.9.
If you are new to shirring, first you need to prepare your bobbin. It is your bobbin that the shirring elastic goes into. Use regular thread on the top part of your sewing machine.
Take an empty bobbin and gently start winding the elastic around it by hand. Leave the end of the elastic hanging off and just hold it out of the way. Wind several times around the bobbin.
2.5Once you have wound the elastic over itself a couple of times, you will find it secure enough that you can cut the trailing piece from the beginning off.
Continue to wind the rest of your bobbin with the elastic. Go gently and slowly, being careful not to pull or stretch the elastic as you wind.
Stop when the bobbin is about three quarters full. Do not put too much on there so that the elastic bulges out over the edge of the bobbin.
2.6Put your bobbin into your machine as you would normally.
If you have a top loading machine, check that the elastic is running through the tension notch just like regular thread would. If it is not running through there you will find the elastic makes squiggly lines on the back of the fabric and it won’t gather nicely.
2.7Continue to set your machine up as you normally would when you change your bobbin thread.
For most top-loading machines you will find it easier to get it all set up and put the bobbin cover on last, once the thread is up under the presser foot. If you have a side loading machine, just do things as you normally would.
Now practice, practice, practice.
Before you go any further, I highly recommend you test your shirring elastic by sewing a scrap of fabric to make sure it is set up how you want it.
On some sewing machines you will find your regular straight stitch will be fine. On some machines you will need to lengthen your stitch slightly. Not all the way, but just a little. Practice until you are happy with how your stitching looks.
TIP – Make sure to use a locking or back stitch at the beginning of each row. If you don’t do this, the elastic can slip out along the row and unravel your stitches.
If this is your first time doing shirring, I also recommend your practice several rows of shirring on a scrap piece of fabric before you do your actual shirring on the garment. This is much easier than having to unpick if you make a mistake!
NOTE – If you make a mistake, the easiest way to unpick shirring elastic is to snip through the elastic at the beginning right next to your locking stitch. Repeat at the other end. Then pull out enough elastic for you to get a hold of it with your fingers. Next, pull the elastic all the way through. The thread on the other side will just fall off once the elastic has been removed.
NOTE – Shirring elastic is much, much thicker than thread. This means your full bobbin won’t last as long as a typical bobbin. Please double check before starting each line of shirring that you will have enough elastic on your bobbin to complete that row.
2.8With the right side of the fabric facing up, stitch a straight line all the way across the Bodice top edge, approximately ½ inch from the finished edge.
The right side will look like regular stitching; the back will have the elastic on it, so that it gathers the fabric.
Stitch three more rows next to the first one to give the ‘shirred’ effect.
TIP – Try to sew the rows an equal distance from each from each other.
You can space your rows as close or as far apart as you wish. For the look in the photos, space them ⅜ inch apart from each other.
TIP – You can use the edge of your presser foot (or as a marking on your presser foot depending on the model) as a guide. Keep the previous row of shirring lined up with the edge of the foot as you sew, and you will get perfectly straight lines!
TIP – Use the steam from your iron to cause the shirring to tighten up and gather more.
Skip to step 4.
3 . Elastic Channel Neckline OPTION3.0If you are doing the Elastic Channel OPTION, follow below. If you have done the Shirred OPTION, skip to step 4 for Ties.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Facing pieces right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press seams to the back. The Facing will now form a circle. Serge the bottom edge of the Facing. Fold it ½ to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Lay the Bodice right side up. Place the Facing right sides together, aligning the side seams. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press. Skip to step 3.9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
3.1Place the Front and Back Facing pieces right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.
3.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.3Press the seam allowances open.
Your Facing will now form a circle.
3.4Fold the bottom edge of the Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
3.5Fold another ¼ inch and press. Pin in place.
3.6Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.7Lay the Bodice right side up. Place the Facing so the right sides are together, aligning the side seams. Pin.
3.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.9Fold the Facing over the Bodice, wrong sides together. Press the seam.
3.10Stitch ½ inch from the top edge of the Bodice, creating the top of the elastic channel.
Stitch a second row at the bottom of the facing stitching directly on top of the topstitching from step 3.6. Leave a ½ to 1 inch gap to thread the elastic through.
3.11Pin a safety pin onto the end of the elastic and thread it into your channel, overlapping the ends by ½ an inch. Pin together.
FIT CHECK – Try the Bodice on to check the fit of the elastic. Adjust the elastic if needed.
3.12Stitch the elastic together, stitching back and forth 3-4 times to secure the elastic.
TIP – Check that your elastic has not twisted in the channel before stitching the ends together.
3.13Stitch the gap closed, matching the seam from step 3.10.
4 . Ties4.0These steps are the same for either Tie width – Thin or Wide.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold a Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin one short edge and the long raw edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 4.4. Repeat for other three Ties.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
4.1Fold a Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin one short edge and the long raw edge.
4.2Stitch the pinned edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You are leaving one short edge unstitched for turning.
4.3Trim the corner to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
4.4Turn your Tie right way out. If you have a favorite method to do this, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
TIP – It is best to use a blunt object like a chopstick.
Open the seam allowance stitched in step 4.2 on the short edge. Insert the chopstick until it reaches the stitching.
Push the Tie over the chopstick, pushing the Tie all the way over the chopstick, until it is turned right side out. Push the chopstick back out through the gap.
4.5Fold the open short edge ½ inch inside the Tie and pin. Press the whole Tie.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.5 for the other three Ties.
4.6Place a Tie onto the seam of the Side Front. Pin. Repeat to place a second Tie onto the other Side Front seam.
Place a third Tie onto the Back approximately ⅜ inch in from the Side Front seam. Pin. Repeat to place the fourth Tie on the other side.
FIT CHECK – Try the Bodice on and check the placement of the Ties. As we are all shaped differently, this placement may not be the best placement for you. Adjust accordingly.
4.7Stretch the Bodice only where attaching the Ties. Stitch all Ties in place using a ½ inch seam allowance from the top edge of the Bodice.
TIP – Backstitch on both sides of the Tie to secure it.
5 . Bodice Hem5.0This step is the same for all length options.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Finish the edge of the hem with the serger. Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
5.1Fold the bottom edge of the Bodice ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
5.2Fold another ¼ inch and press.
5.3Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
6 . Tier 16.0You will need the first Tier for all length options.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place two Tier 1 pieces right sides together. Pin the short edges. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge the top edge. Fold it ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 6.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Stitch the two Tier 1 pieces together at the short edges using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
6.2Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to enclose the top raw edge.
6.3You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the top edge of the Tier.
Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take the Tier and stitch the first row of gathering stitches ⅜ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the previous gathering stitch line (⅝ inch from the top edge).
TIP – Start and stop at each side seam. This will make it easier to gather.
6.4Find and mark the quarter points of Tier 1 and the bottom edge of the Bodice. Place Tier 1 with the wrong side facing the right side of the bottom edge of the Bodice, matching quarter points. The Bodice hem will sit in between the two rows of gathering stitches. Pin.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather in between each quarter until the width of the top edge of Tier 1 matches the width of the bottom of the Bodice.
Carefully spread them out so that it is gathered evenly.
6.5Stitch Tier 1 onto the Bodice in between the two rows of gathering stitches.
NOTE – Remember to change your length of stitches to a normal length before stitching.
6.6Remove the two rows of gathering stitches.
If you are sewing the mid-calf or maxi lengths, skip to step 7.
6.7Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to enclose the bottom raw edge.
Your Tie Shoulder Tiered Dress is finished!
7 . Tier 2 and 37.0If you are sewing the mid-calf or maxi length you will need to follow this step.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place two Tier 2 pieces right sides together. Pin the short edges. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat until all four pieces are stitched together. Follow steps 7.3 to 7.6. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge raw edges. MAXI LENGTH: Repeat for Tier 3 pieces. BOTH LENGTHS: Serge the hem edge. Fold it ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
7.1Stitch two Tier 2 pieces together at one short edge using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
Repeat to stitch the other two Tier 2 pieces together at one short edge.
You will now have 2x Tier 2 pieces stitched together at one short edge.
7.2Stitch the Tier 2 pieces together at the short edges using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
Your Tier 2 will now form a circle.
7.3You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the top raw edge of the Tier.
Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take the Tier and stitch the first row of gathering stitches ⅛ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the previous gathering stitch line.
7.4Find and mark the quarter points of Tier 1 and Tier 2.
7.5Place the top edge (with gathering stitches) of Tier 2 onto the bottom raw edge of Tier 1, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
7.6Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather in between each quarter until the width of the top edge of Tier 2 matches the width of the bottom of Tier 1.
Gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly. Pin.
7.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Remove the gathering stitches.
7.8From the right side of the garment, press the seam up, making sure not to flatten the gathers.
If you are sewing the mid-calf length, skip to step 7.11. If you are sewing the maxi length, follow below.
7.9MAXI LENGTH: Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 to stitch Tier 3 into a circle.
7.10Find and mark the quarter points of Tier 2 and Tier 3.
Place the top edge (with gathering stitches) of Tier 3 onto the bottom raw edge of Tier 2, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
Repeat steps 7.6 to 7.8 to gather and stitch Tier 2 and 3 together.
7.11BOTH LENGTHS: To finish the seams between the Tiers, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch. If you wish to do either of these, do this now, then skip to step 7.18.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind them using bias tape as follows:
Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape and fold one short side under ¼ inch.
7.12Place the bias tape right sides down onto Tier 2, matching raw edges. The fold line on the bias tape should match the seam. Pin.
7.13Continue pinning the bias tape all the way along the seam line of Tier 2, overlapping the ends by ½ inch. Pin.
Trim the excess bias tape.
7.14Stitch along the fold on the bias tape.
NOTE – Your stitching should be directly on top of the Tier seam.
7.15Trim the seam allowance of the Tiers.
7.16Fold the bias over the seam, enclosing all raw edges. Pin.
7.17Topstitch along the bias, making sure not to catch the dress under your stitches. Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the Tier.
MAXI LENGTH: Repeat steps 7.11 to 7.17 to bind the raw edges of Tier 3.
7.18Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to enclose the bottom raw edge of the last Tier.
Your Tie Shoulder Tiered Dress is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Tie Shoulder Tiered Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rptietierdress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewTie Shoulder Tiered Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Sew yourself a lovely summery dress with three length options; mid-thigh, mid-calf or maxi. The mid-thigh length has one tiered frill. The mid-calf has two tiers and the maxi has three. The front bodice panels are shaped to give more volume at the bust, swinging over the waist and hip. Choose between two tie widths and either shirred or an elastic channel neckline. The first tier is sewn on top of the bodice and is visible on the outside, the rest of the tiers are attached and finished to the wrong side of the dress.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center front to bottom length
Tie length
Mid-thigh
Mid-calf
Maxi
Thin OPTION
Wide OPTION
12 – 18 mos
30.0
23.0
25.7
13.5
17.3
21.5
10.6
14.5
18 – 24 mos
31.0
24.0
26.7
15.0
18.5
23.0
11.0
15.0
2 – 3 yrs
33.0
25.5
28.5
17.0
21.3
26.2
11.0
15.0
3 – 4 yrs
34.0
26.5
30.0
19.3
24.0
29.3
11.5
15.7
5 – 6 yrs
36.0
27.5
32.0
23.5
28.6
34.4
12.0
16.3
7 – 8 yrs
38.0
28.5
34.0
26.0
31.6
38.0
12.2
16.6
9 – 10 yrs
39.0
29.5
37.0
27.0
32.7
39.0
12.6
17.1
11 – 12 yrs
41.0
30.5
39.0
29.0
35.0
41.3
13.0
17.7
Materials and ToolsFabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric such as a bubble crepe, viscose challis, rayon, cotton lawn, cotton voile, silk, silk crepe, crepe de chine, or silk satin will drape. If you use a fabric that doesn’t have drape, this will affect the shaping of the dress. You want to use a fabric that has a lovely soft, drape in order to achieve the intended look.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Bodice & Ties
Tier 1 (All lengths)
Tier 2 (Mid-calf & maxi)
Tier 3 (Maxi)
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
1.25
N/A
N/A
N/A
7 – 8 yrs
1.25
N/A
N/A
N/A
9 – 10 yrs
1.25
N/A
N/A
N/A
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
N/A
N/A
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Bodice & Ties
Tier 1 (All lengths)
Tier 2 (Mid-calf & maxi)
Tier 3 (Maxi)
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.25
0.50
0.75
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.25
0.50
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.50
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.50
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Channel Elastic OPTION: ¾ inch wide Elastic – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Shirring OPTION: 75 mm wide Shirring elastic x1 spool
- Mid-calf or maxi length OPTONS: ½ inch wide double fold bias binding – approximately 2-3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- NOTE – If making the bias binding you will want 1 ¾ inch strips.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.