Children’s Two Piece Swim Set - Ruched Swim Bottoms

Ruched Swim Bottoms

Difficulty Level = Beginner

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Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

12mo - 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

The high-rise sits into the natural waist. The mid-rise sits at top hip (hip bone).

• Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Selecting your Size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your waist measurement to the size for your hips.
• Height adjustment – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for waist measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement.
• Rise – The crotch has been drafted to fit an average rise (the curve of the bottom). If you have a long or short torso or rise you may find you need a full belly or full booty adjustment.  Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. The pattern measurements will have a negative ease, you will need to sew a muslin to find the best fit. If you need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust (front or back), cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start!  It is highly recommended that you sew a muslin first (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) if this is the case for you. That way you can play around with the rise to get it perfect for you, and then you’ll have a master crotch line you can use on this and many other swimsuits, trousers, shorts etc. in the future to get them spot on.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.  
  • Use an inexpensive lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment. 
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
• Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Main fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.

Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.

Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide (in YARDS)

Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
  • NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when it’s exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, or salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
  • NOTE – You can use Clear elastic in the seams.
• Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.

Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Cutting Checklist: 

Plain Bottoms OPTION: Mid or High Rise

• Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
• Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
• NOTE – The pattern pieces are the same for either rise option. There is a cut line for high waist and for mid waist.

Ruched OPTION: Mid Rise

• Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Lining:
  • Plain OPTION: Front – Lining cut 1 on fold
  • Plain OPTION: Back – Lining cut 1 on fold
  • NOTE – You will need to cut the Lining from the Plain OPTION pattern piece, using the mid rise cut line.

Ruched OPTION: High Rise

• Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Back – Fabric 1 on fold
• Lining:
  • Plain OPTION: Front – Lining cut 1 on fold
  • Plain OPTION: Back – Lining cut 1 on fold
  • NOTE – You will need to cut the Lining from the Plain OPTION pattern piece, using the high rise cut line.

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zig zag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. PLAIN OPTION – Place Main Front onto Main Back, right sides together, matching side seam. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for second side seam.
2. RUCHED OPTION – Fold the Main Back right sides together, matching the center back seam. Stitch. Press seam to one side. Mark ½ inch from each end of elastic. Match top markings on wrong side of Main Back. Pin. Gently pull elastic and match bottom markings. Pin. Stitch a few stitches from the top pin using a straight stitch. Pull the bottom pin and elastic, stretching the elastic so the fabric lays flat. Continue stitching until you reach the bottom pin. Trim elastic. Stitch and gather each Main Front side seam to match Main Back side seams. Baste. Stitch.
3. LINING SIDE SEAMS – Place Front Lining onto Back Lining, right sides together, matching side seam. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for second side seam.
4. ATTACHING MAIN AND LINING – Place Main right sides facing out and Lining wrong sides facing out. Mark center points. Slide Main inside Lining, right sides together, matching side seams and center points. Stitch. Overlap ends of your elastic by 1 inch and stitch. Turn Swim Bottoms so wrong side of Main is facing out. Mark quarter points of elastic and waist. Place elastic over seam allowance matching quarter points. Stitch. Turn right way out. Press. OPTIONAL: Understitch elastic to Lining. Take the Front and Back Lining and match the bottom seam, right sides together. Stitch. Repeat to stitch Main Front and Back bottom seam together.
5. LEG ELASTIC – Place the leg opening of the Main and Lining wrong sides together. Stitch. Place the elastic onto Lining on inside of leg opening. Pin elastic without stretching along the Front. Along the Back, stretch slightly, overlapping elastic by ½ inch. Stitch. Fold leg opening over to the inside. Topstitch. Repeat for other leg opening.

Congratulations, your Ruched Swim Bottoms are done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpruchedswimbottoms.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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