Children’s Unicorn Cape

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings onto the fabric using disappearing fabric ink or tailors chalk. 

If you are doing the ears, iron your iron-on interfacing on to the back of each earpiece. If you are not doing the ears, skip to step 1.2.

All 4 earpieces should now have interfacing on the back of them. Usually, you would only put interfacing on one side of a piece like this, however putting interfacing on both sides will give extra stability.

If you are adding the horn, iron the iron-on interfacing onto the back of the horn piece. If you are not doing the horn, skip to step 1.3.

If you are using double-sided interfacing, follow below. If you are gluing or stitching instead and are not using double-sided interfacing, skip to step 2.

Trace each of the decoration pieces you are doing onto your double-sided interfacing.

• 2x Eyes
• 2x Nostrils
• 2x Inner Ear
• 1x Birthmark 

Note – If you are doing different shaped eyes or other face/eye pieces you may have additional or differently shaped pieces to these. 

Roughly cut around each of the pieces and iron onto the appropriate colored fabric using the manufacturer’s recommendations.

TIP – Make sure to use the manufacturer’s instructions for ironing in place. We would also suggest placing a pressing cloth between the fabric and the iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or scrap of 100% cotton can suffice.

Cut around each piece exactly on the lines and place aside.

All the decoration in this step is optional. Follow the steps you wish, then skip to step 3.

OPTIONAL Eyes – Before attaching the eyes, lay them on the head and decide exactly how you want them.

Place the main fabric right side up, and the eyes right side up on top of them as desired.

In the photos here, and on the pattern pieces, the eyes are centered towards the front of the head. This means that when the head is assembled the eyes will be closed and pointing down and forwards slightly. 

Play around with moving the eye pieces to get the look you want. When you’re happy, move on to the next step.

NOTE – The eyes are a great place to add embellishment instead of the pattern piece/s. You could use diamantes, sparkly buttons, eyelashes, some embroidery, fabric paint or even just different shaped eyes!

If you are using double-sided interfacing, remove the paper backing, iron in place, then optionally top stitch to secure. 

If you are not using double-sided interfacing, top stitch and/or glue in place.

If you topstitch, go slowly to get around the tight curves. Use the hand crank rather than a pedal to get maximum control and put the needle down, lift the presser foot, rotate the fabric then put the presser foot back down and continue to pivot at the corners.

ALTERNATIVE – Paint or embroider the eyes on instead of using fabric.

OPTIONAL Nostrils – Place them right side up onto the right side of the head piece, either per the placement markings on the pattern piece, or as desired.

If you are using double-sided interfacing, remove the paper backing, iron in place then optionally top stitch.

If you are not using double-sided interfacing, top stitch and/or glue in place.

OPTIONAL BirthMark – Place this on either side of the cape as per the placement marking on the pattern piece, or as desired.

If you are using double-sided interfacing, remove the paper backing, iron in place then optionally top stitch.

If you are not using double-sided interfacing, top stitch and/or glue in place.

Add any other decoration you wish.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, do step 3.1. Place the earpieces right sides together. Serge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn the ears right sides out and press. Then skip to step 3.4 to attach the ears.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Place the inner ear right side up onto the right side of the outer ear. Press in place. 

Optionally topstitch around the inner ear.

OPTIONAL – Use a quilting stitch around the inner ear, to stitch it to the outer ear, for a fun decorative option.

ALTERNATIVE – If you are using a fraying fabric for the inner ear, alternatively press the raw edges back ¼ inch to the wrong side first, then topstitch to the outer ear. This will make the inner ear slightly smaller but will stop it from fraying.

With right sides together, stitch the outer ears together along the two long sides. Leave the short bottom side open.

Clip the top point. Turn the ear right sides out and press. Use a point turner or a blunt pointy object such as a knitting needle to poke the tip of the ear fully out.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch around the ear.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the other ear.

Fold the seam allowance on the bottom of the ear into the inside of the ear by ¼ inch. 

When you get to the topstitched sides, fold these in too by approximately ¼ inch.

Press both edges. 

Fold the ear in half vertically, along the short edge to about halfway along the ear.

When the ear is stitched on, the goal is to have it folded almost in half like this, then let the edges open a little. 

The ear should now be a V shape.

Place ears as indicated on the pattern, or where preferred for your creature. 

For the ears to stand up somewhat on their own, the base of the ear needs to be opened slightly. If you are using the pattern markings, center the ear over the marking, with the ear pointing in a slight V so it is a little open and more able to stand upwards. Align the folded edge of the V with the end of the line furthest away from the eyes. That way the ears point in towards the nostrils. 

Pin in place.

NOTE – If you are using glue for some parts of your decorations, please note the ears need to be sewn, not glued on. We will do this in the next steps.

You can either use a sewing machine or hand sew this. 

If you use a sewing machine, the ear will end up with the stitches showing. Use a zipper foot or walking foot to get as close to the ear as possible. Stitch close to the folded edges, all the way around the outside of the ear, making sure to catch both sides of the ear.

If you hand sew, stitch this on now using a slip stitch or your preferred hand sewing stitch.

Reinforce the ear by sewing through the ear several times. Young children often pick up fancy-dress items and toys by their ears/tails/horns so give it a good pull and wiggle around to make sure it is secure. 

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 for the other ear checking that they are symmetrical and in the same place.

TIP – Place the body pieces wrong sides together and check the ears are in the correct place before you sew them on. That way you can ensure they are in the same place before stitching.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, do step 4.1, serge step 4.2, then follow from step 4.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

With the horn piece facing right side up, place the trim over the “V” shape at the top of the horn. Stitch in place, going back and forth a few times to secure.

NOTE – If you use a thicker trim here it may be easier to hand sew than machine sew this on.

Fold the horn in half, right sides together, matching the long straight edges. Stitch down the open side, checking to make sure the trim isn’t caught in the seam. The end of the trim will be poking out the top of the horn.

Turn the horn right sides out.

Thread a needle. Tie a knot at the ends of the thread.

Poke the needle up through the inside of the horn and out the top. 

Wrap your trim around the outside of the horn in a spiral, starting at the top and working around until you reach the bottom.

TIP – It may be easier to stuff the horn before wrapping the trim around the horn or hand stitching the trim to the horn.

Hand Stitch the trim in place using the thread that’s coming out of the top of the horn.

Cut any of the excess off, leaving a tail of 1-2 inches. Tuck the tail inside the horn and if needed, stitch so it does not fall out.

If you’ve used a fraying fabric, tuck the bottom raw edge inside by ¼ inch and press.

Stuff the horn with filling and place aside.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the Cape Sides right sides together with the Cape Centers (for both the main fabric and the lining) using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Serge the Cape Hood pieces right sides together with the Cape Pieces for both the Lining and Main Cape using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Serge the assembled Cape Lining right sides together. Then skip to step 5.6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Pin a Cape Side piece to a Cape Center piece (right sides together). Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seams open.

With the fabric right side together, pin the neck edge of the Cape Hood to the front edge of the Cape Side. Make sure the back curved edge of the Hood is aligned with the Center Back seam of the Cape. The straight front edge of the hood should be along the Cape Side edge.

Double check that you have the Hood facing the correct direction.

Stitch in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam towards the Hood.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.2 to assemble the other half of the Cape.

Leave the Cape in two halves and place aside.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to assemble both halves of the Cape Lining.

Place the lining pieces right sides together and stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance all the way down the Hood and Cape.

FIT CHECK – Try the cape on now if possible. It should be loose fitting and large enough for you to wrap it round yourself and the hood will also be quite loose fitting. 

Make any fitting or preference adjustments to the fit and length now before continuing.

Press the seam open. 

TIP – It can be quite difficult to press the seam open towards the curve at the top of the hood. Use a tailor’s ham or a rolled-up towel underneath to give a curved surface to make pressing easier.

If you are doing a mane, skip to step 6.

If you are not doing a mane, place the cape pieces right sides together and stitch or serge with a ½ inch seam allowance all the way down the hood and cape.

Make any fitting or preference adjustments to the fit and length now before continuing.

Press the seam allowance open if you have stitched (or to the side if you serged the seam).

There are two fastenings in this section. Both are optional. For children who like to put a costume on and then just play without it falling off, you will want to install both options. For children who hate being fastened into anything and would rather just hold on to it, you might just want one, or none!

The two options are: 

• Neck Fastening – This is a strip of hook and loop on either side of the neck that folds over itself to fasten.
• Elastics – These are a loop of elastic near the end of the wing that the child can put their middle finger or wrist through.

If you are doing neck fastenings, follow the next steps. If you are not, skip to step 6.6.

Fold each neck fastening piece in half lengthways, right sides together.

For both pieces, stitch along the long side and one of the short sides with a ¼ inch seam allowance to form a tube with one end closed.

Cut the corners of the neck fastening seam allowance off (don’t cut all the way to the stitching line or it will fray, just cut the bulk off so it’s easier when we turn it right way out).

Turn through and press.

TIP – Use a point turner or something long and thin like a knitting needle or chopstick to poke the corners out.

Stitch the furry (loop) piece of your hook and loop to one neck fastening and the scratchy (hook) piece of your hook and loop to the other neck fastening.

TIP – Some sewing machines don’t like stitching through hook and loop and will skip stitches. Try stitching on a test piece of scrap fabric first. Go slowly and use a slightly longer stitch. Many hook and loops are flat on either side of the hook/loop to stitch on which makes it easier.

With the outside of the Cape right side up, place the neck fastenings on the cape next to the hood. 

One fastening needs to be placed on the left side of the cape, and one on the right side of the cape so they are symmetrical.

Make sure one fastening is facing upwards, and one facing down so when the cape is completed, they meet together and will fasten.

Line up the raw edges, stitch in place ⅛ inch from the edge. Go back and forth several times over these. They will end up under quite a bit of stress when the cape is being played with, so it pays to stitch over them multiple times to make sure they don’t get pulled out.

TIP – If the furry/loop neck fastening is placed up, and the scratchy/hook one down then when the cape is on, the scratchy one is facing away from the neck so it can never accidentally bother sensitive child skin.

If you are adding elastics, follow the next steps. If you are not, skip to step 7 if making with the mane. Otherwise skip to step 8 to assemble the Cape.  

Fold the elastics in half.

If possible, check that your child’s hand fits through the elastic easily. It should be quite comfortable. For older children, it should be a little loose so they can easily get it on and off by themselves. Adjust as necessary.

Pin one at each end of the straight edge of the Cape pieces. They need to be 1 inch in from the end. 

Stitch in place approximately ⅛ inch from the edge. Go back and forth several times over these. They will end up under quite a bit of stress when the cape is being played with, so it pays to stitch over them multiple times to make sure they don’t get pulled out.

This step has a huge amount of creative license. Follow the steps below for the basic construction, but feel free to add ANY extra decoration, touches or changes you wish! This is your creation so have fun and use your imagination for the touches of magic you want… 

There are two ways you can now assemble your Cape and add the Mane.

Option A – Make the mane, sandwich it between the two pieces of the Cape and stitch it into the seam. If you are doing a less full mane, follow this option. 

Option B – Stitch the Cape pieces together and stitch the Mane to the outside. If you are doing a very full Mane, follow this option.

Mane cutting tips:

• If you are using multiple colors or materials in the Mane, divide the amount you will need by the number of colors you have.
• Use the Mane length guide provided in the pattern pieces as a length guide. You can make it longer or shorter if desired. 
• When you cut, the pattern piece says, ‘cut on the fold’. This means you cut the mane pieces TWICE the length of the pattern piece guide. In the finished cape, the Mane will be attached to the cape along that fold line, so the mane ends up the same length as the pattern piece.
• If you are unsure, cut the mane pieces longer than needed. You can always give your finished Unicorn a haircut!
• If you are using fabric, cut the strips approximately 1 inch wide.
• If you are using fabric rather than yarn and have a fabric that frays, cut it out using pinking shears to stop the edges fraying.

First, we will make the Mane. Measure how long you want the mane to be by laying the ribbon or tape along the center back seam of the cape.

There is no right or wrong way to do this. This is just how you want your unicorn/creature to look.

If you are adding the horn, start from the ‘horn placement’ line just as the hood starts to curve around towards the back. We will add the Horn and then a Small Fringe that goes to the front of the Horn separately.

If you are not adding the horn, you can start all the way at the front of the hood, or part way back. Whichever look you prefer.

Measure how close to the hem you want the mane to be. If you want the mane hanging off the back of the cape, measure all the way to the hem. If you want the mane to stop part of the way down the back (like a horse’s mane does), measure to where you want it to stop.

For this tutorial, we started 6 inches from the edge of the hood, added a horn and fringe, and added the mane all the way to the hem.

If you want a ‘tail’, allow for an additional 1-3 inches of ribbon/tape beyond the bottom of the cape. Remember the mane will add an additional few inches as well as it hangs vertically at the base of the cape.

Cut two strips of tape/ribbon to the desired length. They can be the same color or different. One will be hidden underneath the mane, the other will be on top of the mane, but likely hidden amongst lots of mane!

If you are using felt, ribbon or another non-fraying fabric, cut your strips now and skip to step 7.5.

If you are using yarn you can either cut your strips using the pattern piece as a guide, or get a piece of cardboard (this one is straight from my recycling/scrap pile!) and cut it the same length as the pattern piece guide. The width does not matter. Alternatively, you could use a book or any other item that is about the same length as the pattern piece guide (or if you are doing it longer/shorter, the length you desire).

NOTE – The number of strips/pieces of yarn you will need will vary greatly depending on what size you are doing, how full you want the mane, and what you are using for it. You can use any mix of fabrics. A full mane with lots of thin yarn and some ribbon mixed in can easily use 10-20x more strips than a less full mane using just flat, thin ribbon. We purposefully have not given quantities so you can make the unicorn/creature you want. Use your imagination! The mane could be just 20-40 strips of ribbon, or 5 whole balls/skeins of yarn!

If you aren’t sure, start by adding a few strips and place them onto the tape/ribbon in step 7.5, stitch and then pin it to your cape. If you’d like it fuller, add more strips before continuing.

NOTE – If you want the exact same look as in the tutorial, we made the size 4-8 years and were aiming to make a full, mixed-material mane. We used approximately 4 balls of 100g yarn (total 600m), plus 16 strips of thin gold cord, 5 strips of ¾ inch wide gold ribbon, 7 strips of ¼ inch wide gold ribbon, and 11 strips of 1 inch wide pink ribbon. If you have a variety of widths and colors that suit the look you want in your stash, this is a great way to use up leftover ribbon and trim from other projects.

Wrap the yarn or ribbon around the cardboard carefully (do not pull or stretch it as the strips will be too short when you cut them). 

TIP – If you find the cardboard starts to bend, fold it in half vertically or double it up for strength.

Cut the yarn/ribbon at the same end you started at. That way you’ll end up with lots of strips that are the same size as the pattern piece guide, cut on the fold.

TIP – If you are using ribbon, cut on an angle to give them an angled edge. It’s also less likely to fray this way.

TIP – If the ribbon you are using frays, use an anti-fray product such as fraystop, or singe the ends of ribbon carefully to seal them. Make sure to take appropriate health and safety care if you are singing.

TIP – Try to keep the mane pieces in a tidy pile of strips. Especially if you are using yarn, it can be a huge number of strips and is easier to manage if laid neatly.

Lay one piece of ribbon/tape out flat. 

Spread the mane pieces out along the ribbon/tape, centering them over the ribbon/tape.

If you are using different colors/materials, mix these up as desired. To get the look in the tutorial, we layered the mane strips, then mixed them up a bit to get the final look.

If you are doing the fringe, put aside a small quantity to use in the fringe. Again, the number of strips will vary depending on the material you are using, but a good guide is a solid fist full.

Lay the second piece of ribbon/tape down on top of the mane in the middle, lining it up with the first piece of ribbon/tape that is now on the bottom of the mane.

Roughly quarter the ribbon and pin at the quarter points to start with.

At each end of the tape, pin the two pieces together. 

Pin the two layers of tape together all the way along the rest of the mane.

If needed, spread the mane out evenly as you go.

Stitch down one side of the tape and back up the other.

If you’ve done a full mane, this can be tricky. Go slowly, lengthen the stitch length, and use a walking foot if you have one. For this full mane, we lengthened the stitch from 2.2 to 2.8 in the settings.

TIP – As you stitch the mane on, the mane can be much easier to deal with if you roll it up as it is sewn onto the ribbon.

If you are doing Option B, place the cape pieces right sides together and stitch the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance then skip to step 7.11.

If you are doing Option A, place the cape pieces right sides together and sandwich the mane in between them, making sure the tape/ribbon is tucked into the seam allowance.

This option allows for the tape/ribbon to be hidden inside the cape. It is only suitable for a less-full mane.

Stitch the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. here it is ½ inch (not ¼ inch) to allow for making sure the tape is fully hidden inside the seam allowance.

If you are not doing the OPTIONAL fringe, skip to step 8.

If you are doing the OPTIONAL fringe, cut a strip of ribbon/tape approximately 4 inches long.

Place the strips of mane you placed aside in step 7.5 over the strip of ribbon/tape.

Place a second piece of 4-inch-long ribbon/tape over the first. Pin in place.

Stitch the two strips of tape together. Put this aside for later.

TIP – As you stitch the mane on, the mane can be much easier to deal with if you roll it up as it is sewn onto the ribbon.

Place the Main Cape and the Lining Cape right sides together and pin.

Make sure any decorations (and the mane if you did Option A to attach it) are all tucked inwards and out of the way of the seam allowance. 

TIP – If you did the fastenings, pin these into the center of the cape so they are out of the way of the seam.

NOTE – You can attach the mane, horn and any other OPTIONAL decoration you are doing to the cape before you assemble the cape and lining. This will hide the stitching, so the lining is smooth from the inside. However, the mane and horn can add quite a bit of weight to the cape, so to help it hold its structure, we recommend assembling the Lining & Cape first, then attaching these after.

Stitch or serge using a ½ inch seam allowance from the top of the hood all the way down the center back seam to the bottom of the cape.

Leave a 3-inch gap at the bottom of the cape so you can turn the cape. 

It can be quite difficult to press now if you have the mane in place. If you can, or if you have not done the mane, press the seam open if you have stitched, or to the side if you serged.

Trim the seam allowance so it is nice and neat.

Clip the corners off to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut all the way to the stitching line or it will fray, just cut off the bulk so it’s easier when we turn it right side out.

Clip into the corner where the hood and cape meet. 

TIP – This corner can be quite bulky and it’s easy to apply extra force to get the scissors through, then accidentally cut through the stitching into the cape! Don’t do this. Make small little snips in, through one layer at a time until you’ve gotten right into the corner. Use only the very tip of the scissors for maximum control. If you are unsure, be cautious and cut less. You can always check if it lays flat in the next step and if not, turn it wrong side out again and clip a little more.

Turn the cape right sides out through the hole you left open. 

If you did fastenings and pinned these out of the way, unpin these now.

Use a blunt pointy object such as a knitting needle or point turner to make sure the edges are fully turned.

If when you turn the cape through, the corner where the hood and cape meet doesn’t sit flat, then turn it wrong side out again. Then make a few more little snips into the corner, and also on either side of the corner. Some fabrics will need to go closer than others, and some will need multiple clips rather than just one into the corner.

Once you are happy with how it turns, press under seam allowances in the opening where the cape has been turned through and topstitch approximately ⅛ inch from the edge all the way around the cape. Make sure to keep any decorations you’ve already attached out of the way.

TIP – If you used a different color fabric for the hood, you may want to change thread color to match the hood so the stitching will be less visible. Or you could use a contrasting thread, again it’s up to you and your imagination!

Every part of this step is OPTIONAL, follow the ones that apply for the options you are doing, and skip those that do not.

If you are doing the OPTIONAL mane and using Option B, pin the Cape and Lining together down the Center Back seam the length of where you are putting the mane (e.g. from the top of where you will attach the mane to where you are having it end). Stitch through both layers along this Center Back seam where you have pinned to secure the Cape and Lining together. This helps hold the layers together and makes attaching the mane easier.

Pin the mane in place. To do this, lay the cape right sides up with the Mane right side up on top of it. Pin from the top downwards through all layers. Lift the Mane regularly from the side to ensure you don’t have any part of the mane trapped under where you are pinning. Carefully feel with your fingers on the underside of the cape to be sure that you are aligning the mane on top of that center back seam.

Turn the ends of the ribbon/tape under so they are hidden under the Mane.

Decide where you want the Mane to start and finish, then place as desired and pin.

Stitch down both sides and along the ends of the ribbon/tape to hold the mane in place. Again, you will be stitching through a lot of layers so go slowly, lengthen the stitch if needed and use a walking foot if you have one. Continually check as you are stitching to be sure that you only catch the Mane and Center Back of the cape. Keep all other parts of the cape and decorations free of the stitching.

If the mane is very heavy, stitch an OPTIONAL zig zag stitch down the center of the ribbon/tape as well.

TIP – The ribbon/tape should be non-stretch but if for any reason the mane stretched the ribbon/tape and it is now longer than the cape, you can either trim this off, or let it hang like a tail. 

TIP – Switch to a heavy-duty needle and stitch slowly for this step. If you can, pin down the center of the tape/ribbon so that you can stitch on either side and safely leave the pins in until the end. That way they will be there as you stitch down each side (meaning the mane won’t move or shift).

TIP – As you stitch the mane onto the cape, the mane can be much easier to deal with if you roll the cape and mane as one together.

If you are doing the OPTIONAL fringe, follow this step.

If you added the mane, place the horn directly in front of the mane. If you didn’t do the mane, place the horn so that the back of the horn butts up against the horn placement line on the pattern piece.

Slip the fringe under the front edges of the horn so it curls around under the horn. The tape should be hidden under the horn.

You can either fold the fringe in half along the tape/ribbon, so it is a double layer and very full. Or you can place the ribbon/tape flat, trim off one side and have the fringe one layer. See what you prefer for your unicorn/creature.

Once you are happy with your positioning, carefully lift the horn off and pin the fringe in place.

Stitch the fringe in place.

Trim the fringe to a length you are happy with. You may wish to have it long and in the unicorn/creature’s eyes (as some horses have theirs), or trim it so it’s very short, or something in between. For the version in this tutorial, we trimmed it to ½ to 1 inch shorter than the eyes and nostrils so that you could always see them when the fringe is moving about.

If you are doing the OPTIONAL horn, stitch this in place.

The back of the horn should be lined up with the horn placement line.

You can either use a zipper foot and machine stitch this on, or if you’d prefer the stitching to be hidden, hand stitch this in place, knotting regularly. 

If you did the mane, check that you are happy with the length of the mane. Do any snipping of stray mane pieces, trimming or hairstyling you wish. Add bows, clips, butterflies… whatever takes your fancy!

The hood/head of the cape is purposefully big. This allows children to throw it on themselves, wear other fancy-dress costumes under it, have their hair up and a headband on… whatever takes their fancy. They can also hide under it and use it as part of their play. However, if you have done a thick mane and/or used lots of decoration, it may not stay up easily on its own. If this is the case, we recommend you add optional head elastic.

Fold your Head Elastic in half and mark the halfway point with a pin.

Pin the elastic at this halfway point to the center seam of the hood lining.

The elastic needs to be just in from your top stitching. It should be approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

Pin either end of the elastic to where the hood meets the cape.

Fold the hood and elastic again to find the halfway points on either side of the hood and elastic. Pin the elastic to the hood at these points.

Pull the elastic taut and continue to pin all the gaps in-between so that the elastic is now fully pinned to the hood.

Stitch the elastic to the hood using a narrow zig zag stitch. Lengthen your stitch slightly to ensure the elastic can still ‘ping’ in once it’s attached.

NOTE – I used a stitch width of 3 (it’s usually 5 for a regular zig zag) and a length of 2.4 (it’s usually 2) on my machine.

Pulling the elastic taut, carefully stitch the elastic to the hood from the inside of the hood. Make sure not to pull the fabric or force it through the machine, just gently hold the elastic taut and allow the machine to sew normally.

TIP – Change your bobbin thread to the same color as the exterior of your hood so that the stitch is less visible in the finished garment.