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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children’s Vintage Shorts & Trousers
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This beautiful childrens vintage style pattern is for shorts and trousers that can be worn all year round. They features two length options and two hem finishes for the shorts, a narrow waistband, invisible zip, straight-leg fit, front and back darts, and optional welt pockets.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size from the hip measurements. If you fall between sizes, use the size with the correct hip measurement. Then, grade out or in, to the correct waist size.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Choose your size for height and add/remove length at the hem.
- Inseam – Before your muslin, it is a great idea to measure your inseam. It is helpful to have a friend help you out with this. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of your leg. Compare this measurement to the inseam on the finished measurement chart to help make adjustments for height.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted trousers have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. For back creases, do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Cut along the front and back rise and split and spread the pattern, increasing/decreasing by your measurement. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Nappies – The trousers have been drafted to fit ages 12-24 months wearing nappies. If your child wears cloth nappies and/or is older and wearing nappies, you will need to adjust your leg pieces. You will need to add into the rise on the Front and Back Legs. Cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Follow this tutorial for any further fitting advice.
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Fitted trousers can be a bit of an art, but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front and back legs, clip, or pin together at the waist and try on.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 1x 5-inch Invisible zipper
- Interfacing – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes. For medium weight woven fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give the waistband more structure.
- Single fold bias binding to finish the front and back rise – approximately 0.7 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL Zipper pocket – 2x 4-inch wide decorative zipper
- OPTIONAL Hook and eye
- Thread to match
- Front Leg – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Leg – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Back Waistband – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, Interfacing cut 2
- OPTIONAL Welt Pockets – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- OPTIONAL Zipper Pockets – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Pocket Bag – Lining cut 2
Project OverviewVintage Shorts and Trousers
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
These Vintage Shorts and Trousers are fitted at the waist with a narrow waistband and invisible zip at the back. They are straight legged with front and back darts to create a flattering shape. Add optional decorative welt or zipper pockets. There are also two shorts options; a regular or rolled cuff hem.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Shorts inseam
Trouser inseam
Front rise
Back rise
12 – 18 mos
19.5
21.0
4.5
13.0
5.7
8.4
18 – 24 mos
20.5
23.0
4.5
14.0
6.0
8.6
2 – 3 yrs
22.0
24.5
4.5
14.0
6.3
9.0
3 – 4 yrs
23.0
26.0
4.5
15.0
6.7
9.3
5 – 6 yrs
24.0
28.0
5.0
18.0
7.1
9.7
7 – 8 yrs
25.0
30.0
5.0
20.5
7.5
10.1
9 – 10 yrs
26.0
33.0
5.5
23.5
8.0
10.5
11 – 12 yrs
27.0
35.0
5.5
28.0
8.3
11.0
Fitting NotesThese Vintage Shorts and Trousers sit slightly above your natural waist. The middle of the Waistband will sit at your natural waist. They are fitted at the waist and at the top hip, falling straight down from the lower hip.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – You can use nearly any medium weight woven fabric. If you use a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the Trousers more structure. Some great suggestions are duchess satin, crepe satin, cotton drill, cotton lawn, linen, light weight denim, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton or polycotton. If you use a fabric with a print or nap such as velvet, remember to cut all pieces in the same direction and to allow extra fabric for this.
TIP – As you are likely to be sitting and moving while wearing it, check your fabric does not crease easily.
Lining fabric – You will need a lining fabric for your Waistband and for your OPTIONAL Pocket Bags. It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin.
NOTE – The pockets are situated at the hip bone. If you use a thick fabric for the Pocket Bags, it will create a lot of bulk at the hips. You can use main fabric for both your Waistband pieces.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Shorts
Rolled hem shorts
Trousers
OPTIONAL Pockets
Waistband
OPTIONAL Pockets
12 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
3 – 8 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.25
0.25
0.25
9 – 12 yrs
1.00
1.00
2.00
0.25
0.25
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Shorts
Rolled hem shorts
Trousers
OPTIONAL Pockets
Waistband
OPTIONAL Pockets
12 mos – 4 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
5 – 8 yrs
0.50
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
0.25
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.25
0.25
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, zipper or invisible zipper foot, optional stitch in the ditch foot, optional washaway tape, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Shorts Trousers OPTIONAL Welt pockets OPTIONAL Zipper pockets 12 – 24 mos 2-5, 7-10, 11 2-5, 7-14 4-5 2, 5 2 – 6 yrs 2-5, 7-10, 11 2-5, 7-14 4-5 2, 5 7 – 12 yrs 2-5, 7-10, 11 2-5, 7-18 4-5 2, 5 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Shorts Trousers OPTIONAL Welt pockets OPTIONAL Zipper pockets 12 – 24 mos 2-5, 7-10, 11 2-5, 7-14 4, 6 2, 6 2 – 6 yrs 2-5, 7-10, 11 2-5, 7-14 4, 6 2, 6 7 – 12 yrs 2-5, 7-10, 11 2-5, 7-18 4, 6 2, 6 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Front Waistband (Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, Interfacing cut 1)
Back Waistband (Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, Interfacing cut 2)
OPTIONAL Pockets
Welt Pockets (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2)
Zipper Pockets (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2) Pocket Bags (Lining cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
2.0
9.4
2.0
6.6
2.0
6.1
2.0
6.1
6.0
7.0
18 – 24 mos
2.0
10.2
2.0
7.0
2.0
6.1
2.0
6.1
6.0
7.0
2 – 3 yrs
2.0
10.6
2.0
7.2
2.0
6.1
2.0
6.1
6.0
7.0
3 – 4 yrs
2.0
11.0
2.0
7.4
2.0
6.1
2.0
6.1
6.0
8.0
5 – 6 yrs
2.0
11.6
2.0
7.7
2.0
6.1
2.0
6.1
6.0
8.0
7 – 8 yrs
2.0
12.2
2.0
8.0
2.0
6.1
2.0
6.1
6.0
9.0
9 – 10 yrs
2.0
12.6
2.0
8.2
2.0
6.1
2.0
6.1
6.0
9.0
11 – 12 yrs
2.0
13.2
2.0
8.5
2.0
6.1
2.0
6.1
6.0
9.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the waist edge of both Front and Back Legs.
- INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to the Waistband Lining.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create single bias binding.
- DARTS – Stitch darts on Front and Back Legs.
- OPTIONAL POCKETS – Finish raw edges of Main Pockets. Measure ¼ inch on either side of pocket placement marking. Draw a rectangle around the center line. Place Main Pocket onto Front Leg, right sides together. Pin in place at top and bottom. Repeat to attach bottom. Stitch each long edge of rectangle. OPTIONAL Welt Pockets skip to step 2. OPTIONAL Zipper Pockets skip to step 3.
- OPTIONAL WELT POCKETS – Create Welt Pockets to both Front Leg pieces. Skip to step 4.
- OPTIONAL ZIPPER POCKETS – Create zipper opening. Bar tack top of zipper. Stitch zipper behind opening.
- OPTIONAL POCKET BAG – Finish raw edges of Pocket Bag pieces. Lay Front Leg wrong side facing up. Place Pocket Bag onto the outer edge of the Welt/Zipper Pocket, right sides together. Stitch. Repeat for other side of Pocket Lining to the inside edge. Lay Pocket Bag flat and press. Flip Front Leg over right sides facing up. WELT POCKET: Pull the Pocket Bag out to right side. ZIPPER POCKET: Open the zipper. Pull Pocket Bag out to right side. Pin vertical edges. Stitch. Push Pocket Bag back through. Press. Stitch again. Press. Repeat.
- SIDE SEAMS AND INSEAMS – Stitch the side seams and inseams together using a French seam.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Finish back rise edges to zipper marking. Stitch seam from center front to 2 inches before zipper marking. Use Hong Kong method to trim the front rise to 2 inches from zipper marking.
- WAISTBAND – Lay Front Waistband right side up. Place Back Waistband, right side down, matching side seams. Pin. Repeat for other Back Waistband. Stitch. Press seam open. Repeat for Front and Back Waistband Lining. Lay the Legs right side up. Place Waistband onto waist edge, right sides together, matching raw edges and side seams. Stitch. Press seam up. Create memory hem on one long edge of Waistband Lining. Place Waistband Lining onto Main Waistband, right sides together, matching raw edges. Stitch. Press seam down.
- INVISIBLE ZIPPER – Insert invisible zipper. Use Hong Kong method to trim the back rise.
- FINISHING THE WAISTBAND – Fold Waistband Lining over Main Waistband, right sides together. Pin center back ends. Stitch. Repeat for other side. Turn right sides out. Push out corners. Press. Pin memory hem of waistband lining to Trousers. Stitch in the ditch. Press.
- HEMMING – TROUSERS: Fold raw edge over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. Fold over by 1 ½ inches. Press and pin. Edgestitch. Repeat for other leg. SHORTS: Fold hem over to the wrong side by ¼ inch. Press. Repeat. Press and pin. Edgestitch. Repeat for other leg. ROLLED CUFF: Fold hem ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat and pin. Edgestitch. Turn Shorts right way out. Fold hem over, right sides together, by 1 inch. Press. Repeat. Pin at the side seams. Stitch bar tack at both side seams. Press. Repeat for other leg.
- If you measure at the top of your size range, the trousers should fit exactly.
- If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the center back rise before continuing.
- We recommend trying the trousers on now and pinning the back rise using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- If it fits as you wish, continue.
- If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the rise. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hong Kong Finish ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hong Kong Finish ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer the pattern markings to right side of leg piece and wrong side of Main pocket pieces using either tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.
0.2Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t staystitch, the waist is likely to stretch during construction and then, the waistband won’t fit properly when you try to attach it. Directional stay stitching (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Stitch each of the Front and Back Legs at the waist, starting at the rise and stitching in the direction of the arrows.
0.3Interfacing
Use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing to the Front and Back Waistband Lining pieces.
If you are using a thin or slippery fabric, I recommend interfacing the Main Pocket (Welt or Zipper) pieces as these will be manipulated a fair bit in the construction process.
0.4OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you will need to create single fold to bind the rise.
NOTE – If you are using a serger you will not need binding.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
0.5Darts
There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use that. Alternatively, here is how we like to do it.
Lay the Front Leg wrong side up on the ironing board.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with the fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.
Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.
Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart
Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out.
Fold the fabric along the center line of the dart, right sides together. Pin.
Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.
Press the dart toward the side seams.
TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead, leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check that the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.
Repeat for the mirror image Front Leg and both Back Legs.
1 . OPTIONAL Pockets: Welt/Zipper1.0If you are not adding any Pockets, skip to step 5. If you are adding either Pocket OPTION, follow below. You will use the Main Pocket pieces for this step. For WELT POCKETS follow steps 1, 2 and 4. For ZIPPER POCKETS follow steps 1, 3 and 4.
1.1OPTIONAL: Serge or zigzag stitch all raw edges of the two Main Pocket pieces.
NOTE – Do not remove any seam allowance. This is just to finish the raw edges.
1.2Measure ¼ inch on either side of the pocket placement marking on the wrong side.
1.3Draw a rectangle around the center line using the measurements created in step 1.2
1.4Place a pin at the top and bottom of the central line.
1.5Place the Main Pocket onto the Front Leg, right sides together, matching the pocket placement marking. Push a pin through the wrong side of the Main Pocket at the top of the central line and pin in place.
Repeat to attach the bottom.
TIP – If you are using slippery fabrics add a few extra pins along the length of the pattern marking to stop it from shifting.
1.6Stitch along each long edge of the rectangle.
NOTE – You need to stitch exactly on the line as this will affect the final look of the Pocket.
TIP – Use a short stitch length to ensure greater control of the line.
TIP – Snip off the thread tails as you finish each stitch length. There will be a lot of stitches at this area, and it can become messy.
If you are sewing the OPTIONAL Welt Pockets skip to step 2.
If you are sewing the OPTIONAL Zipper Pockets skip to step 3.
2 . OPTIONAL Welt Pockets2.0If you are not adding any Pockets, skip to step 5. If you are adding OPTIONAL Zipper Pockets skip to step 3.
2.1Draw two lines ¼ inch on either long side of the rectangle marking on the wrong side of the Main Pocket.
2.2Baste along each line.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2.3Fold one side of the Main Pocket piece at the basted edge. Press.
Pin.
TIP – Use a steam iron at each step when pressing so that it sits flat. This will affect the final look of the Welt Pocket.
2.4Turn the Front Leg over to the wrong side.
Stitch directly over the stitches from step 1.6, using a smaller stitch length. Start and stop sewing exactly at the start and end of the previously sewn seam. Take your time; this step is critical.
TIP – Using small stitches and stitching slower will give you more control over the precision of the Welt Pocket.
TIP – Snip any thread tails before proceeding onto the next step.
2.5Turn the Front Leg over, right side facing up. Flip the remaining unsewn portion of the flap out of the way. Pin.
2.6Repeat steps 2.3 to 2.5 for the other side of the Main Pocket.
2.7With the Front Leg wrong side facing up, draw a line down the middle of the two stitch lines from step 2.4 and 2.6.
Measure ⅝ inch from the end on both short sides of the central line. Mark both points.
2.8Turn the Front Leg piece back over to the right side. Move the Welt Pocket flaps out of the way to reveal the center line drawn in the preparation step.
Cut along the line of the Welt Pocket, the entire length of the piece on the Main Pocket piece only so that the Main Pocket piece is cut in half. Do not cut the Front Leg fabric.
2.9Turn the Front Leg over, wrong sides facing up. Fold it in half so the lines are directly on top of each other. Make a tiny snip on the fold.
Flatten out the Front Leg piece and continue cutting along the line drawn in step 2.7. Stop snipping at the ⅝ inch marking on either side.
2.10Starting at the end of the cut line, snip at a diagonal angle towards the end of the stitched line, getting as close to the corners as you can without cutting into the stitches. Repeat for the other side of the stitch line.
Repeat at the other end of the cut line.
Remove the basting stitches from step 2.2.
2.11Push the Welt Pocket to the wrong side of the Front Leg.
Flatten it out and manipulate the Welt Pocket so the welts lie straight and meet at the center. Tug lightly at the ends (where the cut triangle is) and make sure that lies flat as well.
Press.
2.12With the right side of the Front Leg facing up, roll the Front Leg fabric over until the triangle of the Welt Pocket can be seen.
Pin the triangle to the Welt Pocket.
2.13Stitch across the bottom of the triangle. Turn the Front Leg right side facing up. Press.
Repeat steps 2.12 to 2.13 with the triangle at the other end of the Welt Pocket.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.13 for the other Front Leg.
Then, skip ahead to step 4.
3 . OPTIONAL Zipper Pockets3.0If you are not adding OPTIONAL Zipper Pockets skip to step 5.
3.1With the Front Leg wrong side facing up, draw a line down the middle of the two stitch lines from step 1.6
Measure ⅝ inch from the end on both short sides of the central line. Mark both points.
3.2Extend your drawing lines towards the stitch lines from step 1.6, making a small triangle at either end of the central line.
3.3Snip a small section along the line drawn in step 3.1
Continue cutting along this line, stopping at the ⅝ inch marking.
Snip along each diagonal line, getting as close to the corners as possible without cutting into the stitches.
Repeat for the other end of the line.
3.4Push the Zipper Pocket through the hole towards the wrong side. Use your fingers to press the edges and pull out the little triangles.
Press.
TIP – Use a steam iron at each step when pressing so that it sits flat. This will affect the final look of the Zipper Pocket.
3.5With the right side of the Front Leg facing up, roll the Front Leg fabric over until the triangle of the Zipper Pocket can be seen.
Pin the triangle to the Zipper Pocket.
3.6Stitch across the bottom of the triangle.
3.7Open the zipper. Place a pin at the top through the zipper tape, keeping the zipper stop aligned.
3.8Using a large zig zag stitch with stitch length 0 – 0.5, stitch a few times to hold the end of the zipper together.
Close the zipper to check that the stoppers are still aligned.
3.9Place the Front Leg over the zipper, right sides facing up, positioning the zipper in the center of the pocket opening. Pin.
TIP – Place the top of the zipper towards the waist side of the Zipper Pocket so that you open the zipper down and away from you. If you prefer to open it the other way, place the top of the zipper closer to the side seam.
TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting while sewing, apply washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.
3.10Using a zipper foot, stitch around all four sides of the zipper using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – When you get to the corners keep the needle down, lift the presser foot and pivot the Front Leg.
TIP – The area at the zipper pull will get bulky. When you get to this point keep the needle down, lift the presser foot and open the zipper, wiggling it past the needle. Continuing stitching.
TIP – Stitch slowly, it will guarantee a better result.
Press.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.10 for the other Front Leg.
4 . OPTIONAL Pocket Bags4.0If you are not adding any Pockets, skip to step 5. If you are adding either Pocket OPTION, follow below. You will use the Pocket Bag pieces for this step.
4.1OPTIONAL: Serge or zigzag stitch all raw edges of the two Pocket Bag pieces.
NOTE – Do not remove any seam allowance. This is just to finish the raw edges.
4.2Lay a Front Leg wrong side facing up. Place the Pocket Bag onto the outer edge of the Welt/Zipper Pocket, right sides together. Pin Pocket Bag and Welt/Zipper Pocket together.
NOTE – The photos show the Welt Pocket option, however, the steps are the same for either Pocket option.
4.3Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch through the Front Leg.
4.4Repeat steps 4.2 to 4.3, stitching the other side of the Pocket Bag to the inside edge of the Welt/Zipper Pocket.
Lay the Pocket Bag flat and press towards center seam.
4.5Flip the Front Leg over so right sides are facing up.
WELT POCKET: Pull the Pocket Bag out to the right side of the Front Leg.
ZIPPER POCKET: Open the zipper. Pull the Pocket Bag out to the right side of the Front Leg.
Pin the vertical edges flat.
4.6Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.7Push the Pocket Bag back through to the wrong side of the Front Leg. Press.
4.8Stitch the vertical edges again using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You are only stitching through the Pocket Bag. Do not stitch through the Front Leg.
Press.
Repeat steps 4.2 to 4.7 for the other Front Leg and Pocket Bag.
5 . Side Seams and Inseams5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the matching Front and Back Leg right sides together at the rise and serge down the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Repeat to serge the inseam. Repeat for other Front and Back Legs. Skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges to create a beautiful finish on the inside of our Trousers. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
5.1With the wrong sides together (right sides out), place a Front and Back Leg pair together at the side seam. Pin.
5.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
5.3Carefully trim the seam allowance approximately in half so the raw edge is clean and does not have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
5.4Fold the Leg right sides facing. Press the side seam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.
NOTE – If you have added a Pocket, pin it out of the way.
TIP – Press the seam allowances toward the back before turning the Trouser right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowances sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
5.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Press the seam allowance towards the back.
5.6Turn the Leg right side out and press the seam as flat as possible.
5.7Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 to stitch the inseam.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.7 for the other Front and Back Leg pair.
6 . Front and Back Rise6.0We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the trousers.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edges of the rise from the center front to the center back on both legs, without removing any seam allowance. Turn one Leg inside out. Insert one Leg into the other, right sides together. Starting at the center front, pin together stopping 2 inches before the zipper marking. Using a regular sewing machine, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open. Then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias binding to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line. This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below.
6.1Zig zag stitch the raw edges of the rise on both Legs, starting at the center back down to the zipper marking.
6.2Insert one Leg into the other, right sides together. Pin from the center front, stopping 2 inches before the zipper marking on the back rise.
6.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.4Trim the seam allowance in half.
6.5Measure the rise up to the zipper marking. Add 3 inches and cut a length of bias binding.
NOTE – Any excess will be trimmed off after installing the zipper.
6.6Open up your bias binding. Place it along the rise, matching the raw edges. Pin until you reach the end of your seam line from step 6.3.
TIP – Start with 1 inch extra binding at the center front.
6.7Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.
6.8Fold the binding up to the stitch line and press.
6.9Fold the bias binding, matching the raw edge to the raw edge of the rise.
Fold over the seam allowance, enclosing the raw edges. Pin.
6.10You will now “stitch in the ditch”, stitching directly along the folded edge of the binding. This creates a neat and pretty finish.
6.11Press the binding towards the wearers left.
7 . Waistband7.1Lay the Front Waistband right side up. Place a Back Waistband, right side down, matching the side seams. Pin.
Repeat to attach the other Back Waistband to the other side of the Front Waistband.
7.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.3Press the seam allowance open.
Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for the Front and Back Waistband Lining.
7.4Lay the Legs right side up. Place the Waistband onto the waist edge, right sides together, matching raw edges and side seams. Pin.
7.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.6Press the seam allowance up towards the Waistband.
7.7Fold one long edge of the Waistband Lining over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. This will create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Waistband Lining.
7.8Place the Waistband Lining onto the Main Waistband, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – You are attaching the opposite long edge to the edge you pressed in step 7.7.
7.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.10Press the seam allowance down towards the Main Waistband.
8 . Invisible Zipper8.0It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zipper. If you use a regular zipper, or do not install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished Trousers will be too big. To help with this, we have made a short video.
Read through the steps below, then watch the video here.
Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.
8.1Unzip the invisible zipper. Place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.
When the zipper is closed, the teeth of the zipper will curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew.
I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat.
NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zip a little to make it easier to attach.
8.2With the Trousers right side up, place the zipper with the teeth side down onto the Trousers.
Place the zipper tape so that it is lined up with the top of the Main Waistband seam (where the Main Waistband and Waistband Lining meet).
Pin the right side of the zipper to the left Leg.
TIP – Take a moment to check that the zipper and Trousers are placed right sides together and that the zipper is on the correct side of the Trouser.
Shorten your zipper if necessary, to match the zipper length of 5 inches. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop the zipper going below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off.
TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zip to the other.
TIP – Add Wonder Tape to the zipper instead of using pins. This will help hold it in place.
8.3INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can.
REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zipper to the trousers, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper as close to the zipper pull as you can.
8.4Close the zipper. You will then be able to check your stitches are correct and that the zipper can close easily.
Mark with chalk or place a pin in the zipper tape where the Waistband meets the Leg and at the end of the zipper where the stitching ends. This will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when you sew it to the opposite side of the Trousers.
8.5Open the zipper. Repeat steps 8.2 to 8.4 with the left zipper tape on the right Leg of the Trousers.
It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the Trousers downwards.
TIP – Check you are able to close the zipper before moving onto the next step.
Trim the excess off the top of the zipper tape. Be careful not to cut the metal stopper or below as you won’t be able to close the zipper.
OPTIONAL – If you have a gap above your zipper you can add a hook and eye to close it.
8.6Turn the Trousers inside out. Starting at the end of the stitches from step 6.10, pin up to ¼ inch away from the zipper.
TIP – Move the end of the zipper tape and the binding out of the way before pinning.
8.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Using a zipper foot here will enable you to get really close to the previously sewn zipper seam. This will prevent any “bumps” showing on the right side of the Trousers.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Skip to step 9.
8.8Trim the seam allowance in half.
8.9Match the raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the back rise. Pin to the base of the zipper (or where your zig zag stitch/serging ends).
NOTE – The raw edge of the bias binding will line up with the raw edge of the trimmed seam allowance.
8.10Repeat steps 5.7 to 5.11 to finish binding the rise.
NOTE – Trim the excess binding to a minimum of ¼ inch past the end of the seam sewn in step 8.7. Fold this excess over to the wrong side of the bias binding and pin.
9 . Finishing the Waistband9.1Starting at the center back, fold the Waistband Lining over the Main Waistband, right sides together, keeping the memory hem folded up. Pin.
9.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch too close to the zipper teeth to prevent the lining obstructing the zipper pull.
9.3Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 for the other side of the Waistband.
9.4Turn the Waistband right sides out. Push out the corners. Press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
9.5Pin the Waistband Lining to the Trousers.
NOTE – Check that the side seams are matched up.
9.6Stitch in the ditch from the right side of the Trousers. You could use the stitch in the ditch foot or a regular foot, both will work fine.
TIP – Stitch slowly to ensure accuracy. Use a matching thread so the Waistband looks seamless.
Press.
10 . Hemming10.0Follow steps 10.1 to 10.3 to hem the Trousers. For the regular hemmed shorts follow step 10.4 to 10.6. For the rolled cuff hem shorts follow step 10.7 to 10.12.
NOTE – If you are using a drapey fabric such as satin we do not recommend the rolled cuff hem option, as it won’t hold its shape.
10.1TROUSER HEM: With the Trousers wrong way out fold the raw edge of the hem over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press.
10.2Fold over to the wrong side by 1 ½ inches. Press and pin.
10.3Edgestitch along the folded edge.
Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 for the other leg.
Your Trousers are finished!
10.4SHORTS HEM: With the Shorts wrong way out fold the hem over to the wrong side by ¼ inch. Press.
10.5Fold over again by ¼ inch. Press and pin.
10.6Edgestitch along the folded edge.
Repeat steps 10.4 to 10.6 for the other leg.
Your Shorts are finished!
10.7ROLLED CUFF HEM: With the Shorts wrong way out fold the hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
10.8Fold over again by ¼ inch. Press and pin.
10.9Edgestitch along the folded edge.
10.10Turn the Shorts right way out. Fold the hem over, right sides together, by 1 inch. Press.
10.11Fold over again by 1 inch. Press. Pin at the side seams.
10.12Stitch a bar tack on the cuffed hem at both side seams.
If you have not done a bar tack before, it is a section of stitching which goes backwards and forwards over itself to create a little line. You can do this by hand or by machine. Some machines will have this as a stitch option you can select. If you do not have this option, you can either try your zigzag stitch, or do several small stitches in a row back and forwards. To use your zigzag stitch set it so it is as wide as the two lines of top stitching, but with no length. The stitching will go side to side on top of itself and not move forward.
Repeat this a few times and then stop. Press.
TIP – If your hem is hanging loosely at the front, stitch a bar tack by hand to help keep it in place.
Repeat steps 10.7 to 10.12 for the other leg.
Your rolled cuff hem Shorts are finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Vintage Shorts and Trousers are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpvintageshortsandtrousers.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewVintage Shorts and Trousers
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
These Vintage Shorts and Trousers are fitted at the waist with a narrow waistband and invisible zip at the back. They are straight legged with front and back darts to create a flattering shape. Add optional decorative welt or zipper pockets. There are also two shorts options; a regular or rolled cuff hem.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Shorts inseam
Trouser inseam
Front rise
Back rise
12 – 18 mos
19.5
21.0
4.5
13.0
5.7
8.4
18 – 24 mos
20.5
23.0
4.5
14.0
6.0
8.6
2 – 3 yrs
22.0
24.5
4.5
14.0
6.3
9.0
3 – 4 yrs
23.0
26.0
4.5
15.0
6.7
9.3
5 – 6 yrs
24.0
28.0
5.0
18.0
7.1
9.7
7 – 8 yrs
25.0
30.0
5.0
20.5
7.5
10.1
9 – 10 yrs
26.0
33.0
5.5
23.5
8.0
10.5
11 – 12 yrs
27.0
35.0
5.5
28.0
8.3
11.0
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – You can use nearly any medium weight woven fabric. If you use a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the Trousers more structure. Some great suggestions are duchess satin, crepe satin, cotton drill, cotton lawn, linen, light weight denim, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton or polycotton. If you use a fabric with a print or nap such as velvet, remember to cut all pieces in the same direction and to allow extra fabric for this.
TIP – As you are likely to be sitting and moving while wearing it, check your fabric does not crease easily.
Lining fabric – You will need a lining fabric for your Waistband and for your OPTIONAL Pocket Bags. It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin.
NOTE – The pockets are situated at the hip bone. If you use a thick fabric for the Pocket Bags, it will create a lot of bulk at the hips. You can use main fabric for both your Waistband pieces.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Shorts
Rolled hem shorts
Trousers
OPTIONAL Pockets
Waistband
OPTIONAL Pockets
12 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
3 – 8 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.25
0.25
0.25
9 – 12 yrs
1.00
1.00
2.00
0.25
0.25
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Shorts
Rolled hem shorts
Trousers
OPTIONAL Pockets
Waistband
OPTIONAL Pockets
12 mos – 4 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
5 – 8 yrs
0.50
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
0.25
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.25
0.25
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1x 5-inch Invisible zipper
- Interfacing – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes. For medium weight woven fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give the waistband more structure.
- Single fold bias binding to finish the front and back rise – approximately 0.7 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL Zipper pocket – 2x 4-inch wide decorative zipper
- OPTIONAL Hook and eye
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, zipper or invisible zipper foot, optional stitch in the ditch foot, optional washaway tape, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
