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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children's Wrap Cardigan
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
The Children’s Wrap Cardigan sewing pattern is the perfect stylish addition to any handmade wardrobe that can be worn all year round! The Children’s Wrap Cardigan pattern features a narrow neckband which is contrasted by a wide waistband and a beautiful wrap front that can either be closed with a tie or a button. Plus, you’ll love the stylish gathered sleeve cuff that makes this Children’s Wrap Cardigan sewing pattern unique.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes 12mo-12yrs.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size using the chest measurements. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes, then grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line. Start from your chest, grading out or in, to your waist and hips.
- Adjusting height – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length, neckline and armscye for that height size bracket, keeping the width to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this cardigan:
- Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out the Front, Back and one Sleeve. Label each piece with tailors chalk/fabric pen so you know what each piece is. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- ¾ inch wide Button:
- Outer Button Closure OPTION x2
- Outer Tie Closure OPTION x1
- Thread to match
- Front Left – Fabric cut 1
- Front Right – Fabric cut 1
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Cuff – Fabric cut 2
- Left Band – Fabric cut 1
- Right Band – Fabric cut 1
- Back Band – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Neckband – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- OPTIONAL Tie – Fabric cut 2
- Loop:
- Outer Button Closure – Fabric cut 2
- Outer Tie Closure – Fabric cut 1
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewWrap Cardigan
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This beautiful and stylish cardigan with a narrow neckband and deep waistband, crosses over at the front with a button closure inside. The outside can be fastened with a tie or button. The sleeve is gathered slightly into a cuff.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Sleeve length
Bicep
Center back length
Cuff width
Center back with bottom band
12 – 18 mos
20.6
20.0
11.2
7.3
6.0
5.0
7.6
18 – 24 mos
21.6
21.0
12.0
7.6
6.6
5.1
8.5
2 – 3 yrs
23.6
22.5
13.5
8.1
7.2
5.2
9.3
3 – 4 yrs
24.6
23.5
15.1
8.3
8.2
5.3
10.5
5 – 6 yrs
26.6
24.5
17.7
9.0
10.0
5.5
12.5
7 – 8 yrs
28.6
25.5
19.5
9.3
11.6
5.6
14.1
9 – 10 yrs
29.6
26.5
20.6
10.0
12.1
5.7
14.7
11 – 12 yrs
31.6
27.5
21.0
10.6
12.6
6.0
15.2
Fitting NotesThe Wrap Cardigan is fitted, finishing at the natural waist.
Materials and ToolsFabric – Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric with a 2 way stretch. The finer the fabric, the more drape it will have. Great examples are single or double brushed poly, cotton lycra, poly rayon spandex, sweater knit, tri blend, cupro, viscose/rayon elastane, rib knit, modal jersey.
Neckband – You will need a knit fabric with a 20% minimum stretch to get the fit as it is designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 20% longer than its original length, then it has at least 20% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.4 inches. You could use a rib here.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
OPTIONAL Tie
12 – 24 mos
0.50
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.25
3 – 9 yrs
0.75
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Cardigan OPTIONAL Tie 12 mos – 24 mos 2-16 5 2 yrs – 12 yrs 2-16 5, 11 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Cardigan OPTIONAL Tie 12 mos – 18 mos 2-15 7 2 yrs – 12 yrs 2-15 7, 14 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Neckband (Cut 2)
Left Band (Cut 1)
Right Band (Cut 1)
Back Band (Cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
12.0
2.0
10.3
4.1
9.0
4.1
10.5
4.1
18 – 24 mos
12.6
2.0
10.6
4.5
9.3
4.5
11.0
4.5
2 – 3 yrs
13.3
2.0
11.1
5.0
10.0
5.0
11.7
5.0
3 – 4 yrs
14.2
2.0
11.5
5.3
10.3
5.3
12.2
5.3
5 – 6 yrs
16.0
2.0
12.0
5.5
10.7
5.5
13.0
5.5
7 – 8 yrs
17.3
2.0
12.3
5.7
11.1
5.7
13.2
5.7
9 – 10 yrs
18.1
2.0
12.6
6.0
11.5
6.0
13.7
6.0
11 – 12 yrs
18.7
2.0
13.0
6.1
12.0
6.1
14.2
6.1
Cuff (Cut 2)
Loop (Outer Button closure cut 2, Outer Tie closure cut 1)
OPTIONAL Tie
(Cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
5.6
3.0
3.0
1.5
9.0
3.0
18 – 24 mos
5.7
3.0
3.0
1.5
9.0
3.0
2 – 3 yrs
6.0
3.0
3.0
1.5
9.0
3.0
3 – 4 yrs
6.0
3.0
3.0
1.5
10.0
3.0
5 – 6 yrs
6.1
3.0
3.0
1.5
10.0
3.0
7 – 8 yrs
6.3
3.0
3.0
1.5
11.0
3.0
9 – 10 yrs
6.6
3.0
3.0
1.5
11.0
3.0
11 – 12 yrs
7.0
3.0
3.0
1.5
11.0
3.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- LOOPS – Fold Loop in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch long edge. Turn right side out and press. OUTER BUTTON CLOSURE: Repeat for second Loop. BOTH OPTIONS: Lay Left Band right side up. Fold the loop in half, pin 1 inch from the top of the left hand side, right sides together with Left Band. Loop will face the inside. Compare button size to the loop then pin the loop in place, baste, trim the ends of the loop. OUTER BUTTON CLOSURE: Lay Right Band right side up. Fold the loop in half, pin 1 inch from the right hand side right sides together with the Right Band. Loop will face the inside. Compare button size to the loop then pin the loop in place. Baste, trim the ends of the loop.
- OPTIONAL TIE – Fold OPTIONAL Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch a short edge and long. Turn right side out and press. Lay Left Band right side up. Baste Tie 1 inch from top on right hand side, right sides together, matching raw edges. Lay Right Band right side up. Baste Tie 1 inch from top on right hand side, right sides together, matching raw edges.
- BODICE – Lay Back right side up. Place Front Left and Front Right down, right sides together, matching shoulders. Stitch. Repeat to stitch side seams.
- NECKBAND – Find and mark center of Back neckline. Stitch Neckband pieces right sides together, at one short edge. Fold Neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin long edge. Lay Bodice flat and open right sides facing up. Place Neckband onto Bodice right sides together, matching raw edges and center back neckline to Neckband seam. Stitch. Flip Neckband away from Bodice. Press. OPTIONAL Topstitch.
- BOTTOM BAND – Lay Back Band right side facing up. Place Right Band down, right sides together, matching side seams. Stitch. Lay Back Band right side facing up. Place Left Band down, right sides together, matching side seams. Stitch. Lay Bodice flat and open with right sides facing up. Place top edge of Band onto bottom edge of Bodice right sides together, matching raw edges. Stitch. Fold Band in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin both sides. Roll Bodice inside Band using burrito roll method. Stitch short edge, then folded edge of Band to bottom seam leaving a 2-3-inch gap for turning, then down the other short edge. Turn right side and press. Hand stitch gap closed using a ladder stitch.
- SLEEVES – Stitch Sleeve underarm seam right sides together. Find and mark center of Sleeve head. Turn right side out. Place Sleeve the Bodice, right sides together, matching center of Sleeve to shoulder seam, and underarm seam to side seam. Stitch. Repeat for other Sleeve.
- CUFFS – Stitch two rows of gathering stitches on raw edge of Sleeve. Find and mark quarter points of Sleeve. Fold Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching raw edges. Stitch. Fold Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Find and mark quarter points. Turn Bodice wrong side out. Slide Cuff inside Sleeve, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Pin. Gently gather. Stitch. Flip Cuff out and press seam down. Repeat for other Cuff and Sleeve.
- BUTTONS – ALL OPTIONS: Hand stitch a button onto inside of Right Band at side seam. BUTTON CLOSURE: Repeat to stitch button onto right side of Left Band at side seam.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . Loops1.0If you are sewing the Tie closure, you will need 1x Loop to use for the inside button. If you are not adding the Ties, you will need 2x Loops.
1.1Fold the Loop in half lengthwise right sides together. Pin.
1.2Serge or stitch the long edge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
1.3Turn it right side out and press.
If you are sewing the outer Tie closure, skip to step 1.5. If you are sewing the outer button closure, follow below.
1.4OUTER BUTTON CLOSURE – Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the second Loop.
1.5BOTH CLOSURE OPTIONS – Lay the Left Band right side up. Fold the loop in half and pin 1 inch from the top of the left hand side, right sides together with the Left Band. The loop will be facing the inside. Place a pin at the top, marking the ½ inch seam allowance. This will allow you to see how big the loop needs to be for the button.
Place the button on the loop to measure how much to adjust the size of the loop. Then move one end of the loop out as needed. Make sure the seams of the loop touch and are laying side by side.
Pin in place.
NOTE – This Loop will be closed with the button on the inside of the cardigan. It is on the front seam.
TIP – If you are using directional fabric, check that your fabric is the correct way. You are attaching it to the top edge.
1.6Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
If you are sewing the outer Tie closure, skip to step 2. If you are sewing the outer button closure, follow below.
1.7OUTER BUTTON CLOSURE – Lay the Right Band right side up. Fold the loop in half and pin 1 inch from the top of the right hand side, right sides together with the right Band. The loop will be facing the inside. Place a pin at the top, marking the ½ inch seam allowance. This will allow you to see how big the loop needs to be for the button.
Place the button on the loop to measure how much to adjust the size of the loop. Then move one end of the loop out as needed. Make sure the seams of the loop touch and are laying side by side.
Pin in place.
NOTE – This Loop will close on the outside with a button.
NOTE – This side will be the front seam. The opposite side is the side seam.
1.8Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Skip to step 3.
2 . OPTIONAL Tie2.1Fold the OPTIONAL Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin a short edge and the long one.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch along the pinned edges.
NOTE – If you have used a sewing machine, trim the seam allowance in half, and clip the corners to reduce the bulk.
2.3Turn it right side out and press.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the second Tie.
2.4Lay the Left Band (with a Loop on the left side), right side up. Place a Tie 1 inch from the top on the right hand side, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – This side is the side seam. The Loop is stitched to the front seam.
2.5Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.6Lay the Right Band right side up. Place a Tie 1 inch from the top on the right hand side, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – This side will be the front seam. The opposite side is the side seam.
2.7Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3 . Bodice3.1Lay the Back right side up. Place the Front Left and the Front Right down, right sides together, matching the shoulders. Pin.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
3.3Place the side seams right sides together. Pin.
3.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
3.5If using a serger, here are two methods to finish the thread tails.
METHOD 1 – Use a wide eye needle to thread the tails back through the stitches.
METHOD 2 – Pull the threads back over the seam and stitch a few zigzag stitches over the seam allowance, securing the tails in place.
4 . Neckband4.1Find and mark the center of the Back neckline.
4.2Place the Neckband pieces right sides together, matching one short edge. Pin.
4.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
4.4Fold the Neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin the long edge.
4.5Lay the Bodice flat and open with right sides facing up. Ease the Neckband onto the Bodice right sides together, matching raw edges and the center back neckline to the Neckband seam. Pin.
4.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
4.7Flip the Neckband away from the Bodice. Press.
4.8OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Neckband seam from the right side, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
5 . Bottom Band5.1Lay the Back Band right side facing up. Place the Right Band down, right sides together, matching side seams. Pin.
NOTE – Check you are attaching the Right Band the correct way. The side seam is the opposite side to where the Loop/Tie is attached.
5.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.3Lay the Back Band right side facing up. Place the Left Band down, right sides together, matching side seams. Pin.
NOTE – If you are sewing the outer button closure, the Loop is the opposite side to the side seam. If you are sewing the Tie closure, the Tie is attached at the side seam.
5.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.5Lay the Bodice flat and open with right sides facing up. Place the top edge of the Band onto the bottom edge of the Bodice right sides together, matching raw edges and side seams. Pin.
NOTE – The top edge has the Loops/Tie.
NOTE – Check you are attaching the Band the correct way so that the Left Band goes onto the Front Left, and the Right Band goes onto the Front Right.
5.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.7Fold the Band in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin both sides. This will be the center front seam.
5.8Lay the Bodice flat, right sides up. Starting at the neckline, roll the Bodice right sides together, down towards the Band.
5.9Continue rolling until you reach the Band.
5.10Lift the Band and continue rolling until the Bodice is inside the Band.
5.11Take the folded edge of the Band and wrap it around till you reach the bottom seam sewn in step 5.6. Pin.
NOTE – Check that you have not caught the rolled up Bodice when pinning together.
5.12Serge or stitch up the short edges, and along the long edge, leaving a 2-3-inch gap for turning, then down the other short edge, using a ⅜ seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.13Turn the Bodice right side out through the gap.
5.14Press the seam allowance.
5.15Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the gap closed.
Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.
Push your needle up from the inside of the waistband to the outside, through one of the folds, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.
Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
6 . Sleeves6.1Fold the Sleeve in half right sides together matching the underarm seam. Pin.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
6.3Find and mark the center of the Sleeve head.
Turn the Sleeve right side out.
6.4Place the Sleeve inside the Bodice, right sides together, matching the center of the Sleeve to the shoulder seam, and the underarm seam to the side seam. Pin.
6.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
6.6Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.6 for the other Sleeve.
7 . Cuffs7.1You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the raw edge of the Sleeve. Mark ⅛ inch from the side seam on either side. You will be stitching in between these markings.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take the Sleeve and stitch the first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all the leftover bobbin threads!
7.2Find and mark the quarter points of the Sleeve.
For this fold the Sleeve in half, having the underarm seam as one quarter point and marking the one opposite that. Re-fold the Sleeve and mark the other two quarter points.
7.3Fold a Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – Check you are folding the Cuff the correct way. On the smaller sizes it’s easy to get the two sides confused. The stretch should be across the Cuff.
7.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
7.5Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
Find and mark the quarter points.
7.6Turn the Bodice wrong side out. Slide the Cuff inside the Sleeve, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Pin.
TIP – Match the Cuff seam to the Sleeve underarm seam.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads in between the quarter points, to gather the Sleeve until it matches the Cuff. Spread out the gathers so that it is evenly gathered. Pin.
7.7Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
7.8Flip the Cuff out and press the seam allowance down and away from the Sleeve.
Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.8 for the other Cuff and Sleeve.
8 . Buttons8.1The Cardigan wraps right side over left.
ALL OPTIONS – Hand stitch a button onto the inside of the Right Band at the side seam where the Right Band joins the Bodice. The Loop on the Left Band will attach to this button.
If you are sewing the Tie closure OPTION, your Wrap Cardigan is finished. Wrap the Cardigan right side over left and tie together.
OUTER BUTTON CLOSURE – Repeat to attach a button onto the right side of the Left Band at the side seam where the Left Band joins the Bodice.
Your Wrap Cardigan is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Wrap Cardigan is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
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Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewWrap Cardigan
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This beautiful and stylish cardigan with a narrow neckband and deep waistband, crosses over at the front with a button closure inside. The outside can be fastened with a tie or button. The sleeve is gathered slightly into a cuff.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Sleeve length
Bicep
Center back length
Cuff width
Center back with bottom band
12 – 18 mos
20.6
20.0
11.2
7.3
6.0
5.0
7.6
18 – 24 mos
21.6
21.0
12.0
7.6
6.6
5.1
8.5
2 – 3 yrs
23.6
22.5
13.5
8.1
7.2
5.2
9.3
3 – 4 yrs
24.6
23.5
15.1
8.3
8.2
5.3
10.5
5 – 6 yrs
26.6
24.5
17.7
9.0
10.0
5.5
12.5
7 – 8 yrs
28.6
25.5
19.5
9.3
11.6
5.6
14.1
9 – 10 yrs
29.6
26.5
20.6
10.0
12.1
5.7
14.7
11 – 12 yrs
31.6
27.5
21.0
10.6
12.6
6.0
15.2
Materials and ToolsFabric – Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric with a 2 way stretch. The finer the fabric, the more drape it will have. Great examples are single or double brushed poly, cotton lycra, poly rayon spandex, sweater knit, tri blend, cupro, viscose/rayon elastane, rib knit, modal jersey.
Neckband – You will need a knit fabric with a 20% minimum stretch to get the fit as it is designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 20% longer than its original length, then it has at least 20% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.4 inches. You could use a rib here.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
OPTIONAL Tie
12 – 24 mos
0.50
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.25
3 – 9 yrs
0.75
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.00
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ¾ inch wide Button:
- Outer Button Closure OPTION x2
- Outer Tie Closure OPTION x1
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
- ¾ inch wide Button: