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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children’s Wrap Trousers
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This beautiful, flowy childrens wrap trousers sewing pattern with no zip and draped pockets mean these pants sew up in a few hours. Feature a wrap front, a loose straight-leg fit, optional draped or straight in-seam pockets, and optional ties or button closures.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size using the hip measurements from the size chart. If your measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to your hip measurement and grade in or out to the waist of the size you need. If you fall at the bottom end of your size range, you may need to take the waist in at the side seams. We highly recommend a muslin for any pant pattern to adjust to your personal body.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Measure your inseam. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of the leg. Compare this measurement to the finished inseam measurement above, to help make adjustments for height. Follow the Pants Adjustment tutorial to adjust the rise and inseam .
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Trousers can be a bit of an art, but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the Front and Back Legs, clip, or pin together at the waist and try on.
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Follow the Pants Adjustment tutorial for help on pants adjustments.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Inside button fastening:
- 1-inch wide Button x1
- OR 1-inch wide Snaps x2
- Button fastening OPTION:
- ½ inch wide Buttons x2
- You can use bias tape to create the button loop. You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. You only need 4 inches for all sizes. Or you can use a piece of ribbon that is ¼ inch wide by 4 inches long instead. Alternatively use the pattern piece or cut chart to create the button loop piece.
- Thread to match
- Front Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Straight Leg OPTION: Front Leg – Cut 1
- Drape Leg OPTION: Front Leg– Cut 1
- Front Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Left Waistband – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, Interfacing cut 2
- Front Right Waistband – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, Interfacing cut 2
- Back Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Fly Guard – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Ties – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- OR OPTIONAL Button Loop – Fabric cut 1
- OPTIONAL Pockets – Cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zig zag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewWrap Trousers
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These beautiful flowy wrap trousers are the perfect stylish trousers for any occasion. They wrap across the front with a loose straight leg fit. Choose a straight leg wrap, or a single drape or a double drape. The straight leg has optional inseam pockets. The drape leg options have a built-in fold creating a pocket. They are secured by a button at the under wrap with two front fastening options; button and loop, or ties tied together. They can be made from woven or knit, making these trousers truly versatile and stylish.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Inseam
Calf
Front rise
Back rise
12 – 18 mos
19.5
23.7
13.5
11.2
6.3
7.0
18 – 24 mos
20.5
24.7
14.5
12.0
6.5
7.1
2 – 3 yrs
22.0
26.5
14.5
12.5
6.7
7.5
3 – 4 yrs
23.0
28.0
15.5
13.0
7.0
8.0
5 – 6 yrs
24.0
30.0
18.5
14.0
7.3
8.2
7 – 8 yrs
25.0
32.0
20.5
15.0
7.6
8.6
9 – 10 yrs
26.0
35.0
23.5
16.5
8.0
9.0
11 – 12 yrs
27.0
37.0
27.0
18.0
8.3
9.3
Fitting NotesThese Wrap Trousers will sit at the natural waist. They are a loose-fitting straight leg wrap pant with a draped pocket above the knee.
Materials and ToolsYou will need a light to medium weight woven or jersey. If you are sewing the draped version, you will need a fabric that drapes well to achieve the intended look of the draped pocket.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Straight leg
Single drape leg
Double drape leg
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.75
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
1.00
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.25
7 – 8 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
1.75
2.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Straight leg
Single drape leg
Double drape leg
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
1.25
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Straight leg Single drape leg Double drape leg All options OPTIONAL OPTIONAL OPTIONAL Pockets Ties Loops 12-24 mos 2-4, 8-10, 14-16 2-10, 12-16, 18-19 2-3, 5-9, 12-15, 18-19 11-12, 17-18 23 11 17 2-4 yrs 2-4, 8-10, 14-16 2-10, 12-16, 18-19 2-3, 5-9, 12-15, 18-19 11-12, 17-18 23 11 17 5-6 yrs 2-4, 8-10, 14-16 2-10, 12-16, 18-19 2-3, 5-9, 12-15, 18-19 5, 11-12, 17-18 23 11 17 7-8 yrs 2-4, 8-10, 14-16 2-10, 12-16, 18-19, 24-25 2-3, 5-9, 12-15, 18-19, 24-25 5, 11-12, 17-18 23 11 17 9-12 yrs 2-5, 8-11, 14-17, 20-23 2-17, 18-25 2-3, 5-9, 12-15, 18-21, 24-25 5, 11-12, 17-18 23 11 17 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Straight leg Single drape leg Double drape leg All options OPTIONAL OPTIONAL OPTIONAL Pockets Ties Loops 12-18 mos 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 2-11, 14, 16-18, 21 2-3, 5-10, 14, 16-17, 21 5, 12-13, 19-20 8 12 19 18-24 mos 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 2-11, 13-14, 16-18, 21 2-3, 5-10, 13-14, 16-17, 21 5, 12-13, 19-20 8 12 19 2-6 yrs 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 2-11, 13-14, 16-18, 20-21 2-3, 5-10, 13-14, 16-17, 20-21 5, 12-13, 19-20 8 12 19 7-8 yrs 2-5, 9-12, 16-8 2-14, 16-18, 20-21 2-3, 5-10, 13-14, 16-17, 20-21 5, 12-13, 19-20 8 12 19 9-10 yrs 2-5, 9-12, 16-19, 22-23 2-23, 26-27 2-3, 5-10, 13-17, 20-23, 26-27 5, 12-13, 19-20 8 12 19 11-12 yrs 2-5, 9-12, 16-19, 22-25 2-25 2-3, 5-10, 13-17, 20-23, 26-27 5, 12-13, 19-20 8 12 19 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Ties
(Cut 2)
OPTIONAL Button loop (cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
12mos – 12yrs
3.5
12.5
1.0
4.0
Cutting Checklist:
Straight Leg OPTION:
Single Drape Leg OPTION:
Double Drape Leg OPTION:
ALL OPTIONS
NOTE – Pattern pieces need to be cut with the fabric right sides facing up and the pattern pieces facing right side up (labels facing up).
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to Waistband pieces.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the waist edge of the Front and Back Legs.
- BACK LEG DARTS – Mark and stitch the Back Leg darts.
- STRAIGHT LEG OPTION POCKET – Stitch the Pockets on with a French seam.
- DRAPE LEG OPTION POCKET – Lay Front Leg right sides facing up. Fold top edge of Drape Pocket wrong sides together matching straight edges. Stitch the seam with a French seam. Fold the Drape Pocket to wrong side of Front Leg, match short straight edge of Pocket to waist edge. Baste. Match the side of the Pocket to the side seam of Front Leg. Baste. DOUBLE DRAPE LEG OPTION: Repeat for the second drape Front Leg. SINGLE DRAPE LEG OPTION: Skip to step 4.
- FLY GUARD – Finish raw edges of front rise and back rise. Repeat with both long straight edges of the Fly Guard. Fold the short edge of Fly Guard ¼ inch to wrong side, press. Repeat, then topstitch. Place Fly Guard on left Front Leg, right sides together, long edge matched to the front rise. Stitch and press open. Repeat to attach other long straight edge to the other Front Leg.
- SIDE SEAMS – ALL OPTIONS: Stitch with a French seam.
- INSEAM – Stitch both inseams using a French seam.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Turn one Leg inside out. Place inside second Leg wrong sides together. Pin along rise. Stitch front and back rise using a French seam.
- OPTIONAL TIES – Fold Tie in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch long edge and a short edge. Trim seam allowance and clip corners. Turn Tie, press. Repeat for second Tie.
- OPTIONAL BUTTON LOOPS – Fold Button Loop in half lengthwise, stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance, trim seam allowance. Turn right side out and press.
- WAISTBAND – Stitch Main Back and Main Front Right Waistband right sides together, at short edges. Press seam open. Baste a Tie on Main Front Right Waistband, right sides together. OR Fold the Button Loop in half, pin to the right side of the Main Front Right Waistband with the Loop facing away from the side seam. Check button size. Baste. Baste second Tie/Button Loops onto Main Back Waistband, right sides together. Stitch Main Front Left Waistband on Main Back Waistband right sides together, at short edges. Press seam open. Repeat with Main Front Right and Left Waistband. Repeat with Back and Front Right Waistband Lining. Repeat with Front Left Waistband Lining onto Back Waistband Lining. Repeat with Main Front Right and Left Waistband. Create memory hem on one long edge of Waistband Lining. Stitch Main and Lining Waistband pieces right sides together, at raw long edge. Press seam open.
- ATTACHING WAISTBAND – Place Main Waistband onto waist edge, right sides together matching raw edges and side seams. Stitch. Press seam up. Turn pants inside out. Fold Waistband over, pin memory hem of Waistband Lining to trousers. Stitch in the ditch. Press. Stitch buttonhole through Main Front Left Waistband and Lining. Stitch button to Front Right Waistband Lining. OPTIONAL Button Loops: Stitch buttons to Main Front Right Waistband.
- HEMMING – Fold raw edge over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. Fold again by ½ inch. Press and pin. Topstitch.
- STRAIGHT LEG POCKETS OPTION: Place the Front and Back Legs right sides together, serging down each side seam, pivoting around the Pockets, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- SINGLE / DOUBLE DRAPE LEG / STRAIGHT LEG WITHOUT POCKETS OPTION: Place the Front and Back Legs right sides together, serging down each side seam, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
Hem – 1 inchPreparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
1⁄2 inch seam allowance included (1⁄4 then 1⁄4 for French seams) - Top stitching 1⁄8 inch – Basting 1⁄8 inch Hem – 1 inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron interfacing onto the Waistband pieces.
0.3Staystitching
If you are using a knit fabric, skip to step 1. If you are using a woven fabric, follow below.
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the trousers. Otherwise, the waist is likely to stretch and then the Waistband and Legs won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.
Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting as you sew the rest of the garment.
Staystitch each of the Front Leg pieces at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch each of the Back Leg pieces at the waist in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Back Leg Darts1.0There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it:
1.1If you haven’t done this before, lay the Back Leg wrong side up on your ironing board.
NOTE – The images shown are not from this pattern, but the steps are the same. These are just for illustrative purposes.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board. Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.
Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.
Draw the dart in between the corner points using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.
Leave the fabric where it is, turn the paper pattern piece over and repeat with the mirror image front pant, using the pin holes as your three corner points.
1.2Fold the fabric down the centerline of one dart, right sides together. Pin in place.
1.3Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.
Press the dart toward the side seam.
TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads.
1.4Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the mirror image Back Leg.
2 . Straight Leg OPTION: Pocket2.0If you are not adding any Pockets, skip to step 4. If you are sewing the Double Drape Leg OPTION, skip to step 3. If you are sewing the Single Drape Leg OPTION, skip to step 3. If you are sewing the Straight Leg OPTION, you can add inseam pockets to both legs. Follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place a mirrored pair on the front side seams and the other pair on the back seams, with right sides together and lining up where the marking on the pattern piece indicates. Use a ½ inch seam allowance to serge a pocket piece to each front and back side seam. Check that you have the mirrored pattern pieces matching when you put the fronts and backs together.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have a beautiful finishing on the inside of our trousers. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
2.1Place a Pocket onto the Front Leg, wrong sides together, aligning the top of the Pocket to the pattern marking.
2.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.3Carefully trim the seam allowance approximately in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
2.4Fold the Pocket over, right sides together. Press the seam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.
TIP – Press the seam allowances towards the back before turning the Front Leg and Pocket right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowances sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
2.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
2.6Snip the folded seam allowance at the top and bottom of the Pocket (shown as a yellow line in the photo) so the fabric lays flat.
2.7Open the Pocket out. Press the seam allowance towards the Pocket.
If you are sewing a single drape leg option, skip to step 4. If you are sewing a straight leg option, follow below.
2.8Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.7 to attach a Pocket to the matching Back Leg.
If you are sewing the straight leg option, repeat steps 2.1 to 2.8 to attach Pockets to the other Front and Back Leg.
If you are sewing a single drape leg option, skip to step 3.
3 . Drape Leg OPTION: Pocket3.0If you are sewing a straight leg option, skip to step 4. If you are sewing either a Single or Double Drape option, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Front Leg right sides facing up. Take the top edge of the Drape Pocket and fold it, right sides together, matching straight edges. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 3.4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our trousers. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
3.1Lay the Front Leg right sides facing up. Take the top edge of the Drape Pocket and fold it, wrong side together (right sides out), matching straight edges. Pin.
3.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.3Carefully trim the seam allowance approximately in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
3.4Turn so the right sides are facing, press the seam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.
TIP – Press the seam allowances towards the back before turning the Front Leg and Pocket right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowances sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
3.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
3.6Fold the Drape Pocket to the wrong side of the Front Leg, matching the short straight edge of the Pocket to the waist edge. Pin.
3.7Baste using a ⅛ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
3.8Match up the side of the Pocket to the side seam of the Front Leg. Pin.
NOTE – The Pocket will be baggy on the outside and lay flat on the wrong inside.
3.9Baste using a ⅛ seam allowance.
If you are sewing a single drape leg option, skip to step 4.
If you are sewing a double drape leg option, repeat steps 3.1 to 3.9 for the second drape Front Leg.
4 . Fly Guard4.0This step is the same for all leg options.
4.1Stitch using an overlock or zigzag stitch the raw edges of each Front Leg at the front rise.
ALTERNATIVE: Serge the raw edges.
4.2Repeat step 4.1 with the Back Legs and back rise.
4.3Stitch using an overlock stitch, or serge the long straight raw edges on either side of the Fly Guard.
4.4Fold the bottom short edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
Fold again ¼ inch so the raw edge is enclosed in the seam.
ALTERNATIVE: Serge the short edge to finish the raw edge.
4.5Topstitch close to the folded edge.
4.6Place the Fly Guard onto the right Front Leg, right sides together, matching a long straight edge at the front rise. Pin.
4.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.8Press the seam allowance open.
4.9Repeat steps 4.6 to 4.8 attaching the other long straight edge to the left Front Leg.
5 . Side Seams5.0This step is the same for all leg options.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION –
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below
5.1Place the Front and Back Legs wrong sides together (right sides out), aligning the side seams and OPTIONAL Pockets (straight leg OPTION) if added. Pin.
5.2STRAIGHT LEG POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and around the Pocket edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
When you reach the join between the Pocket and the pants, place your needle down, lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric. Then, place your presser foot back down and continue. This will give a neat, sharp corner.
SINGLE / DOUBLE DRAPE LEG / STRAIGHT LEG WITHOUT POCKETS OPTION – Stitch each side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
5.3STRAIGHT LEG POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Clip into the corners where the Pocket meets the pants. Again, clip close to the seam but not all the way in (approximately ⅛ inch away).
TIP – For maximum control, use the very point of your scissors when you clip into the corners where the pocket meets the pants. It is harder to control the blade further down and easy to accidentally cut past the seam allowance. If you use the tip, you can do several small snips and get them exactly where you want them.
SINGLE / DOUBLE DRAPE LEG / STRAIGHT LEG WITHOUT POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
5.4Turn inside out, matching right sides together, and press.
STRAIGHT LEG POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and Pocket again with ¼ inch seam allowance.
Turn right side out. Press Pocket towards the front.
SINGLE / DOUBLE DRAPE LEG / STRAIGHT LEG WITHOUT POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seams again with ¼ inch seam allowance.
Turn right side out.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 with the other Front and Back Leg.
6 . Inseam6.0This step is the same for all leg options.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the leg right sides together matching the inseam. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the second Leg. Skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Stitch the inseam of the Leg piece together, using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 5.1 to 5.4.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
Repeat for the second Leg inseam.
7 . Front and Back Rise7.0This step is the same for all leg options.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Turn one Leg inside out. Slide it inside the second Leg, right sides together. Pin along the rise, from the back to the bottom of the Fly Guard. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Clip into the seam allowance just above the notch.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
7.1Turn one Leg inside out. Slide it inside the second Leg, wrong sides together. Pin along the rise.
7.2Stitch the front and back rise of the Leg pieces together, from the back to the bottom of the Fly Guard, using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 5.7 to 5.10.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
8 . OPTIONAL Ties8.0If you are using the Button Loop closures, skip to step 9. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Ties, follow below.
8.1Fold a Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching the raw edges. Pin.
8.2Stitch along the long edge and one short edge, leaving the other short edge open.
8.3Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners to remove bulk.
8.4Turn right sides out.
There are several ways to turn the sash tube right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it with a loop turner.
Insert the loop turner inside the sash tube until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you’ve turned the tube right side out completely.
Roll the seam under between your fingers so that it lays flat. Press.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.4 for second Tie. Then skip to step 10.
9 . OPTIONAL Button Loops9.0If you are adding OPTIONAL Ties skip to step 10. If you are using a ribbon for the loops, skip to step 10. To create your own loop, continue below.
9.1Take the fabric strip you cut for the Button Loop and fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together.
Pin along the raw edge.
9.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance in half.
9.3Turn the tube right side out and press.
There are several ways to turn the Loop right side out. If you have a preferred method, one you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is one option.
Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).
Clip a small tip off the corner of the side the needle will be going through. This will help the fabric to turn inside itself.
Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
The finished size of the Loop should be ¼ inch wide.
9.4Press the Loop with the seam straight along one side.
Cut the Loop into 2 pieces.
10 . Waistband10.1Place the Main Back and Main Front Right Waistband pieces right sides together, matching the short angled edge. Pin.
NOTE – If you are adding the OPTIONAL Ties, these will be added to the straight edge.
10.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.3Press the seam allowance open.
If you are adding Button Loops, skip to step 10.5. If you are adding OPTIONAL Ties, follow below.
10.4OPTIONAL Ties: Center a Tie onto the Main Front Right Waistband, right sides together, matching straight raw edges. Pin.
10.5OPTIONAL Button Loops: Fold the Loop in half and pin to the right side of the Main Front Right Waistband at the pattern marking.
Place a pin at the top, marking the ½ inch seam allowance. This will allow you to see how big the Loop needs to be for the button.
Place the button on the Loop to measure how much the Loop needs to be adjusted by. Then move one end of the Loop out as needed. Make sure the seams of the Loop touch and are laying side by side as shown here.
Pin in place.
Repeat for the second Loop.
10.6Baste using a ⅛ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
If you are adding Button Loops, trim the ends, then skip to step 10.9. If you are adding OPTIONAL Ties, follow below.
10.7Place the second Tie onto the Main Back Waistband, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – You are attaching the straight edge of the Tie to the curved edge of the Main Back Waistband.
10.8Baste using a ⅛ seam allowance.
10.9Place the Main Front Left Waistband onto the Main Back Waistband, right sides together, matching raw short ends. Pin.
NOTE – If you have added the OPTIONAL Tie, it will be sandwiched between the Main Back and Main Front Left Waistbands.
10.10Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.11Press the seam allowance open.
10.12Place the Main Front Right and Left Waistband pieces right sides together, matching short straight raw edges, to form a circle. Pin.
10.13Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.14Press the seam allowance open.
10.15Place the Back and Front Right Waistband Lining pieces right sides together, matching a short curved edge. Pin.
10.16Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.17Press the seam allowance open.
10.18Place the Front Left Waistband Lining onto the Back Waistband Lining, right sides together, matching raw short ends. Pin.
10.19Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.20Press the seam allowance open.
10.21Place the Main Front Right and Left Waistband pieces right sides together, matching short raw edges, to form a circle. Pin.
10.22Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.23Press the seam allowance open.
10.24Fold the bottom long edge of the lining waistband over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press to create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Waistband Lining hem later when it is attached to the pants.
10.25Place the Main and Lining Waistband pieces right sides together, matching the raw long edge. Pin.
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Open the Waistband flat and press the seam allowance open.
11 . Attaching Waistband11.1Lay the raw unfolded edge of the Main Waistband right sides together with the pants, matching the side seams. Pin around the raw edges.
NOTE – Check you are attaching the correct side of the Waistband to the pants. The side seam of the Front Right Waistband seam starts at the right side of the Fly Guard seam. The Front Left Waistband will extend over the left of the Fly Guard seam.
11.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Check that the Ties are out of the way and do not get caught in the stitching.
Press the seam allowance up towards the Waistband.
11.3Turn the pants inside out. Fold the Waistband over. Make sure that the raw edges are folded upwards towards the Waistband so that they are all caught inside when you pin the Waistband down. The raw edges should all then be hidden. Pin all along the entire waistband.
TIP – Pin from the right side of the pants directly along the seam between the pants and the Waistband. Keep flipping it over though to check.
11.4From the right side of the pants stitch where the pants meet the Waistband. This is called ‘stitching in the ditch’, where you sew exactly on top of a previous seam. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment, and you will just catch the other side of the Waistband in your stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden.
Stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and fabric flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it’s not visible on the finished pants. Occasionally, lift the pants up to check that you are catching the other side of the Waistband.
TIP – Use a thread in your needle that matches the pants and aim for a tiny fraction onto the pants instead of the waistband and it usually ends up fairly invisible.
ALTERNATIVE – If you would prefer, you can topstitch on the actual Waistband (approximately ⅛ inch from the crease). Your stitching will be more visible but it’s much easier!
11.5Inside Fastening: Using the markings you transferred in the preparation step, stitch the buttonhole on the Main Front Left Waistband through the Lining.
TIP – Test a buttonhole on a scrap of fabric first to check it fits your button, and your pants in the direction you want it to.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.
ALTERNATIVE – If you are adding snaps, apply these where the button and buttonhole markings are on the waistband, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Position the male parts on the Main Front Left Waistband and the female parts on the Front Right Waistband Lining.
NOTE – You will need two snaps.
11.6Try on your garment and mark the corresponding button placement on the Front Right Waistband Lining, adjusting to suit your fit. Stitch the button to the Lining only so that it is not visible on the right side of the pants.
TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure they will line up. If needed, move any buttons to align better with your buttonholes.
OPTIONAL BUTTON LOOPS: Repeat to stitch the buttons in place onto the Main Front Right Waistband, at the pattern markings.
12 . Hem12.0FIT CHECK – Try the pants on and check the hem length. The hem will be 1 inch. Make any adjustments you prefer and then continue.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edge of the hem, then follow steps 12.1 to 12.3
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
12.1Fold the hem under ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
12.2Fold again another ½ inch. Press. Pin.
12.3Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.3 with the other Leg.
Your Wrap Trousers are finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Wrap Trousers are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpwraptrousers.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewWrap Trousers
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These beautiful flowy wrap trousers are the perfect stylish trousers for any occasion. They wrap across the front with a loose straight leg fit. Choose a straight leg wrap, or a single drape or a double drape. The straight leg has optional inseam pockets. The drape leg options have a built-in fold creating a pocket. They are secured by a button at the under wrap with two front fastening options; button and loop, or ties tied together. They can be made from woven or knit, making these trousers truly versatile and stylish.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Inseam
Calf
Front rise
Back rise
12 – 18 mos
19.5
23.7
13.5
11.2
6.3
7.0
18 – 24 mos
20.5
24.7
14.5
12.0
6.5
7.1
2 – 3 yrs
22.0
26.5
14.5
12.5
6.7
7.5
3 – 4 yrs
23.0
28.0
15.5
13.0
7.0
8.0
5 – 6 yrs
24.0
30.0
18.5
14.0
7.3
8.2
7 – 8 yrs
25.0
32.0
20.5
15.0
7.6
8.6
9 – 10 yrs
26.0
35.0
23.5
16.5
8.0
9.0
11 – 12 yrs
27.0
37.0
27.0
18.0
8.3
9.3
Materials and ToolsYou will need a light to medium weight woven or jersey. If you are sewing the draped version, you will need a fabric that drapes well to achieve the intended look of the draped pocket.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Straight leg
Single drape leg
Double drape leg
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.75
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.75
1.00
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.25
7 – 8 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
1.75
2.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Straight leg
Single drape leg
Double drape leg
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.75
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.00
1.00
1.25
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
1.25
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
1.25
1.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Inside button fastening:
- 1-inch wide Button x1
- OR 1-inch wide Snaps x2
- Button fastening OPTION:
- ½ inch wide Buttons x2
- You can use bias tape to create the button loop. You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. You only need 4 inches for all sizes. Or you can use a piece of ribbon that is ¼ inch wide by 4 inches long instead. Alternatively use the pattern piece or cut chart to create the button loop piece.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
- Inside button fastening: