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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children’s Yoga Pants
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Deliciously comfy with pockets, the Yoga Pants sewing pattern gives you pleated-front pull-on trousers with slash pockets, three length options, and two leg shapes.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size and blending – Choose your size using the hip measurements from the size chart. If your measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to your hip measurement and grade the waist in or out to the size you need. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your waist measurement to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the hem using your hip measurement size.
- Childs height adjustment – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above. Measure your inseam. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of the leg. Compare this measurement to the finished inseam measurement above, to help make adjustments for height.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork, for back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork.
- If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise, and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start!
- Follow this tutorial for any further fitting advice.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin these pants:
- Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out all pieces. Label each piece with tailors chalk/fabric pen so you know what each piece is. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Elastic – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- Front– Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back– Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Bag– Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Plain Waistband OPTION:
- Inner Waistband – Fabric cut 4 on fold
- OR Ruched Waistband OPTION:
- Outer Waistband – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Inner Waistband – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zig zag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewYoga Pants
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Sew a stylish and comfy pair of yoga pants with a pleated front and slashed pockets. There are three lengths to choose from; shorts, mid-calf and full length. You can choose a straight or tapered leg style for the mid-calf and longer lengths. The waistband can be flat or ruched at the side.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Inseam
Shorts
Mid-calf (straight/ tapered)
Tapered ankle length
Straight full length
12 – 18 mos
16.5
21.7
2.2
7.1
10.4
11.1
18 – 24 mos
17.5
22.7
2.2
7.7
11.1
11.7
2 – 3 yrs
19.0
24.5
2.2
9.1
14.0
14.6
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
26.0
2.2
10.3
17.0
17.6
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
28.0
2.2
11.3
19.0
19.6
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
30.0
2.2
12.3
21.0
21.6
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
33.0
2.2
12.7
22.1
22.7
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
35.0
2.2
14.2
24.3
25.1
Front rise
Back rise
Hem Circumference
Shorts
Mid-calf (straight/ tapered)
Tapered ankle length
Straight full length
12 – 18 mos
4.7
6.2
13.0
10.5
9.0
7.5
18 – 24 mos
5.0
6.5
13.5
11.0
9.5
7.7
2 – 3 yrs
5.2
6.7
14.5
11.2
10.0
8.2
3 – 4 yrs
5.6
7.2
15.5
12.3
11.0
8.5
5 – 6 yrs
6.2
7.6
16.5
13.1
11.7
8.7
7 – 8 yrs
6.3
8.1
17.7
14.1
13.0
9.5
9 – 10 yrs
6.7
8.3
19.1
15.5
14.7
10.1
11 – 12 yrs
7.1
8.7
20.5
16.7
16.5
10.5
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsYour fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
Your fabric will need to have at least 50% stretch to get the fit as it is designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 50% longer than its original length, then it has at least 50% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 3 inches.
Both 2- and 4-way stretch fabrics will work for this pattern. You will achieve different fits with the different types of fabric. So be sure to make up a muslin in the same or similar fabric to check fit and find your preference for your fabric.
The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your pants maintain their stretch and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery, simply ensure that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size. Alternatively, you can add a piece of elastic into your waistband to help maintain elasticity.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Waistband
Shorts
Mid-calf tapered / straight
Tapered ankle length
Straight full length
12 – 18 mos
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
0.50
18 – 24 mos
0.25
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Short length Mid-calf length Ankle length Full length OPTIONAL Plain Waistband OPTIONAL Ruched Waistband 12 -24 mos 2-4, 6-9, 13 2-4, 6-9, 13 2-4, 6-9, 13 2-4, 6-9, 13 5 5 2 – 8 yrs 2-4, 6-9, 13 2-4, 6-9, 13 2-4, 6-13 2-4, 6-13 5 5 9 – 10 yrs 2-4, 6-9, 13 2-4, 6-13 2-4, 6-13 2-4, 6-13 5 5 11 – 12 yrs 2-9, 13 2-9, 13 2-16 2-16 5 5 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Short length Mid-calf length Ankle length Full length OPTIONAL Plain Waistband OPTIONAL Ruched Waistband 12 -24 mos 2-4, 10, 14 2-4, 7-10, 14 2-4, 7-10, 14 2-4, 7-10, 14 5 5, 6 2 – 3 yrs 2-4, 10, 14 2-4, 7-10, 14 2-4, 7-10, 14 2-4, 7-14 5 5, 6 3 – 6 yrs 2-4, 10, 14 2-4, 7-10, 14 2-4, 7-14 2-4, 7-14 5 5, 6 7 – 10 yrs 2-5, 10, 14 2-5, 7-10, 14 2-5, 7-14 2-5, 7-14 5 5, 6 11 – 12 yrs 2-5, 10, 14 2-5, 7-14 2-5, 7-14 2-5, 7-14 5 5, 6 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
⅜ inch wide Elastic (Cut 1)
Length
12 – 18 mos
17.5
18 – 24 mos
18.5
2 – 3 yrs
20.0
3 – 4 yrs
21.0
5 – 6 yrs
22.0
7 – 8 yrs
23.0
9 – 10 yrs
24.0
11 – 12 yrs
25.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings.
- RUCHED WAISTBAND OPTION – Gather the short edges of the Outer Waistbands to match the length of the Inner Waistband short edges. Place Outer Waistbands right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Place Inner Waistbands right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Overlap ends of elastic by 1 inch. Stitch. Find and mark quarter points of elastic, Outer and Inner Waistbands. Place Inner Waistband over the Outer Waistband, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin top edge. OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Place elastic onto wrong side of Inner Waistband top edge, matching quarter points. Stitch. Turn right side out. Press. Skip to step 3.
- PLAIN WAISTBAND OPTION – Place two Inner Waistbands right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Repeat. OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Overlap ends elastic by 1 inch. Stitch. Find and mark quarter points of elastic and both Inner Waistbands. Place Inner Waistband pieces right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin the top edge. OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Place elastic onto the wrong side of Inner Waistband top edge, matching quarter points. Pin. Stitch. Turn right side out. Press.
- PLEATS – Fold the pleats towards the side of each Front Leg, right side facing up. Baste.
- POCKETS – Lay the Front right side up. Place a Pocket Bag onto the Front, right sides together. Stitch. Flip the Pocket Bag over to the wrong side. Press. OPTIONAL: Topstitch. Lay Front wrong side facing up with the Pocket Bag right side facing up. Place Pocket onto Pocket Bag, right sides together. Stitch long straight edge and bottom curved edge. Right side facing up, place Front over Pocket, matching top and pattern marking on the side. Baste. Repeat on second Front piece. Skip to step 6.
- SIDE SEAM AND INSEAM – Place the Front and Back right sides together. Pin along the inseam and the side seams. Stitch. Repeat for the other leg.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Turn one of the legs right side out, keeping the other wrong side out. Insert the leg that is right side out, into the other leg. Stitch the rise.
- ATTACHING THE WAISTBAND – Find and mark quarter points on bottom edge of Waistband and waist edge of the pants. Place Waistband over the pants, matching raw edges and quarter points. RUCHED WAISTBAND OPTION: The Inner Waistband will be on the outside, right side facing up. Stitch.
- HEM – OPTIONAL: Serge the hem of your pants without removing any seam allowance. Fold hem over to wrong side by ½ inch. Press. Topstitch. Repeat for the other leg.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Hem – ½ inchPreparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem – ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . Ruched Waistband OPTION1.0If you are sewing the Plain Waistband OPTION, skip to step 2. If you are sewing the Ruched Waistband OPTION, you will need 2x Outer Waistband and 2x Inner Waistband pieces.
1.1Stitch two rows of gathering stitches at both short edges of an Outer Waistband.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
1.2Place the Outer Waistband onto the Inner Waistband, matching both short edges.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Outer Waistband until it is the same length as the short edge of the Inner Waistband.
Gently spread out the Outer Waistband so that it is evenly gathered. Repeat for other end of Outer Waistband.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 on the second Outer Waistband.
1.3Place the Outer Waistbands right sides together, matching short edges. Pin.
1.4Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Your Waistband will now form a circle.
1.5Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.4 on the Inner Waistbands.
FIT CHECK – Try the Waistband on. If you feel it’s too loose or the fabric does not have good recovery, you can add elastic for extra support. If you do not need to add the OPTIONAL elastic, skip to step 1.9.
1.6FIT CHECK – Try on the cut length of the elastic. Elastics can have different tension. Adjust as needed.
Overlap the ends of your elastic by ½ inch each end (total amount of overlapping should be 1 inch). Pin.
Stitch together to form a circle.
TIP – Use zigzag stitches (forwards and backwards) and straight stitches next to them to make sure the elastic will stay together forever.
1.7Fold your elastic in half and mark with a pin. Fold in half again and mark the quarter points with a pin.
1.8Repeat step 1.7 to find and mark the quarter points on the top of your Outer and Inner Waistbands.
1.9Place the Inner Waistband over the Outer Waistband, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin the top edge.
OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Inner Waistband top edge, matching quarter points. Pin.
TIP – If you find stitching the elastic into the seam too bulky, stitch the seam first, then stitch the elastic to the seam allowance without overlapping the seam.
1.10Serge or stitch the top edge of the Inner and Outer Waistband together, using a ⅜ seam allowance.
NOTE – If you have added elastic and are serging, do not remove any seam allowance.
1.11Turn the Waistband right side out. Press.
Remove any visible gathering stitches.
Skip to step 3.
2 . Plain Waistband OPTION2.0If you have sewn the Ruched Waistband OPTION, skip to step 3. If you are sewing the Plain Waistband OPTION, you will need 4x Inner Waistband pieces.
2.1Place two Inner Waistbands right sides together, matching short edges. Pin.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Your Waistband will form a circle.
2.3Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 with the other two Inner Waistband pieces.
FIT CHECK – Try the Waistband on. If you feel it’s too loose or the fabric does not have good recovery, you can add elastic for extra support. If you do not need to add the OPTIONAL elastic, skip to step 2.6.
2.4FIT CHECK – Try on the cut length of the elastic. Elastics can have different tension. Adjust as needed.
Overlap the ends of your elastic by ½ inch each end (total amount of overlapping should be 1 inch). Pin.
Stitch together to form a circle.
TIP – Use zigzag stitches (forwards and backwards) and straight stitches next to them to make sure the elastic will stay together forever.
2.5Fold your elastic in half and mark with a pin. Fold in half again and mark the quarter points with a pin.
2.6Find and mark the quarter points on both Inner Waistband pieces.
2.7Place the Inner Waistband pieces right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin the top edge.
OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Inner Waistband top edge, matching quarter points. Pin.
TIP – If you find stitching the elastic into the seam too bulky, stitch the seam first, then stitch the elastic to the seam allowance without overlapping the seam.
2.8Serge or stitch the top edge of the Inner and Outer Waistband together, using a ⅜ seam allowance.
NOTE – If you have added elastic and are serging, do not remove any seam allowance.
2.9Turn the Waistband right side out. Press.
3 . Pleats3.0You will be creating a set of two pleats on both Front pieces.
3.1Mark/pin the four markings on the top of your Front piece.
3.2Lay the Front Leg right sides facing up. Lift the fabric at the second marking and fold it over to the first marking, right sides together. This will create your first pleat.
3.3Repeat step 3.2 matching the fourth marking to the third marking, creating the second pleat.
NOTE – All pleats should be facing towards the side of the Front (away from the rise).
3.4Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
3.5Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 on the other Front piece.
4 . Pockets4.1Lay the Front right side up. Place a Pocket Bag onto the Front, right sides together, matching curved edges. Pin.
4.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ seam allowance.
4.3Flip the Pocket Bag over to the wrong side of the Front. Press.
4.4OPTIONAL TOPSTITCH: Pin along the curved edge. Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
4.5Lay the Front wrong side facing up with the Pocket Bag right side facing up. Place the Pocket onto the Pocket Bag, right sides together. Pin the long straight edge and the bottom curved edge.
4.6Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.7Right side facing up, place the Front over the Pocket, matching the top and the pattern marking on the side. Pin.
4.8Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.8 on the other Front piece.
5 . Side Seam and Inseam5.1Place the Front and Back right sides together. Pin along the inseam and the side seams.
5.2Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.3Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.2 for the other leg.
6 . Front and Back Rise6.1Turn one of the legs right side out, keeping the other wrong side out.
6.2Insert the leg that is right side out, into the other leg. The legs will now be right sides together. Pin the legs together along the curved edge (the rise).
6.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7 . Attaching the Waistband7.0This step is the same for either Waistband option.
7.1Find and mark the quarter points on the bottom edge of the Waistband and the waist edge of the pants.
Place the Waistband over the pants, matching raw edges and quarter points.
RUCHED WAISTBAND OPTION: The Inner Waistband will be on the outside, right side facing up.
NOTE – Check that you have pinned both layers of the Waistband to the pants.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8 . Hem8.0This step is the same for all length and style options.
8.1OPTIONAL: Serge the hem of your pants without removing any seam allowance.
Fold the hem over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat for the other leg.
Your Yoga pants are finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Yoga Pants are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpyogapants.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewYoga Pants
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Sew a stylish and comfy pair of yoga pants with a pleated front and slashed pockets. There are three lengths to choose from; shorts, mid-calf and full length. You can choose a straight or tapered leg style for the mid-calf and longer lengths. The waistband can be flat or ruched at the side.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Inseam
Shorts
Mid-calf (straight/ tapered)
Tapered ankle length
Straight full length
12 – 18 mos
16.5
21.7
2.2
7.1
10.4
11.1
18 – 24 mos
17.5
22.7
2.2
7.7
11.1
11.7
2 – 3 yrs
19.0
24.5
2.2
9.1
14.0
14.6
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
26.0
2.2
10.3
17.0
17.6
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
28.0
2.2
11.3
19.0
19.6
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
30.0
2.2
12.3
21.0
21.6
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
33.0
2.2
12.7
22.1
22.7
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
35.0
2.2
14.2
24.3
25.1
Front rise
Back rise
Hem Circumference
Shorts
Mid-calf (straight/ tapered)
Tapered ankle length
Straight full length
12 – 18 mos
4.7
6.2
13.0
10.5
9.0
7.5
18 – 24 mos
5.0
6.5
13.5
11.0
9.5
7.7
2 – 3 yrs
5.2
6.7
14.5
11.2
10.0
8.2
3 – 4 yrs
5.6
7.2
15.5
12.3
11.0
8.5
5 – 6 yrs
6.2
7.6
16.5
13.1
11.7
8.7
7 – 8 yrs
6.3
8.1
17.7
14.1
13.0
9.5
9 – 10 yrs
6.7
8.3
19.1
15.5
14.7
10.1
11 – 12 yrs
7.1
8.7
20.5
16.7
16.5
10.5
Materials and ToolsYour fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
Your fabric will need to have at least 50% stretch to get the fit as it is designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 50% longer than its original length, then it has at least 50% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 3 inches.
Both 2- and 4-way stretch fabrics will work for this pattern. You will achieve different fits with the different types of fabric. So be sure to make up a muslin in the same or similar fabric to check fit and find your preference for your fabric.
The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your pants maintain their stretch and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery, simply ensure that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size. Alternatively, you can add a piece of elastic into your waistband to help maintain elasticity.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Waistband
Shorts
Mid-calf tapered / straight
Tapered ankle length
Straight full length
12 – 18 mos
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
0.50
18 – 24 mos
0.25
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Elastic – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.