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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com.
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Children's Yoke Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
The children’s Yoke Dress pattern is a fresh and summery floaty V-neck dress and top.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out or in to the correct waist and hip size.
- Height adjustment – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement. You will need to adjust the Bodice and Skirt pieces for height.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this dress:
-
- Use an inexpensive woven fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out all pieces to the top length. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Light weight interfacing – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Single fold bias binding – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- Center Front – cut 1 on fold
- Side Front – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Back – cut 1 on fold
- Side Back – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Yoke – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair),
Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)- NOTE – You can use the same fabric for the Main and Lining. The Lining is the inner Yoke pieces.
Project OverviewYoke Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
A beautiful and flattering dress, the Yoke Dress is loose fitting, has no side seams and is gathered into the V-neck yoke. There are three length options to choose from: top, mid-thigh or knee length. Add detailing to the yoke neckline such as topstitching or embroidery or even color block for a fresh summery look.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Bodice apex to hems length
Hem circumference
Yoke
Top
Mid-Thigh
Knee
Top
Mid-Thigh
Knee
Inner Edge
Depth
12 – 18 mos
38.5
40.0
42.5
6.3
11.5
16.5
41.5
43.6
47.6
4.5
1.6
18 – 24 mos
39.5
41.0
43.5
7.3
12.7
16.2
42.5
45.2
49.1
4.6
1.6
2 – 3 yrs
41.5
43.0
45.5
8.2
14.5
18.3
44.0
48.0
50.5
5.0
1.6
3 – 4 yrs
43.5
45.0
47.5
9.5
16.6
21.2
45.3
48.5
52.0
5.1
1.6
5 – 6 yrs
46.0
47.5
49.5
12.0
20.1
25.2
49.4
53.3
57.0
5.3
1.6
7 – 8 yrs
48.5
50.0
52.0
14.0
22.5
28.0
51.6
58.1
61.6
5.5
1.6
9 – 10 yrs
51.0
52.5
54.5
14.7
23.2
29.0
54.0
62.5
66.4
5.6
1.6
11 – 12 yrs
53.5
55.0
57.0
15.5
24.7
31.2
57.6
67.3
71.2
6.0
1.6
Fitting NotesThis garment is very loose fitting from the apex down with a fitted yoke.
Materials and ToolsMain and Lining: You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this top. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind.
A light to mid weight woven such as a cotton lawn, cotton voile, linen, silk, rayon challis, silk crepe, bubble crepe, crepe de chine, double gauze or silk satin will drape. Fabrics with more structure will create a boxy look.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Yoke
Top
Mid-Thigh
Above Knee
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.25
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.50
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.25
1.50
7 – 8 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.50
1.75
9 – 10 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.50
1.75
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.75
2.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Yoke
Top
Mid-Thigh
Above Knee
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.25
0.50
0.50
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.25
7 – 8 yrs
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.75
9 – 10 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.50
1.75
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.75
2.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Top Mid-thigh Above knee 12 – 18 mos 2-3, 6-7, 10-12, 15-16, 19 2-3, 6-7, 10-12, 15-16, 19 2-3, 6-7, 10-12, 15-16, 19 18 – 24 mos 2-3, 6-7, 10-12, 15-16, 19 2-3, 6-7, 10-12, 15-16, 19 2-4, 6-8, 10-13, 15-17, 19 2 – 3 yrs 2-3, 6-7, 10-12, 15-16, 19 2-3, 6-8, 10-12, 15-16, 19 2-4, 6-8, 10-13, 15-17, 19 3 – 4 yrs 2-3, 6-7, 10-12, 15-16, 19 2-4, 6-8, 10-13, 15-17, 19 2-4, 6-8, 10-13, 15-17, 19 5 -6 yrs 2-3, 6-7, 10-12, 15-16, 19 2-4, 6-8, 10-13, 15-17, 19 2-19 7 – 8 yrs 2-4, 6-8, 10-13, 15-17, 19 2-4, 6-13, 15-17, 19 2-19 9 – 10 yrs 2-4, 6-8, 10-13, 15-17, 19 2-19 2-19 11 – 12 yrs 2-4, 6-8, 10-13, 15-17, 19 2-19 2-19 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Top Mid-thigh Above knee 12 – 18 mos 2-3, 6-7, 11-13, 16-17, 21 2-3, 6-7, 11-13, 16-17, 21 2-3, 6-8, 11-13, 16-18, 21 18 – 24 mos 2-3, 6-7, 11-13, 16-17, 21 2-3, 6-7, 11-13, 16-17, 21 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 16-18, 21 2 – 3 yrs 2-3, 6-7, 11-13, 16-17, 21 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 16-18, 21 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 16-18, 21 3 – 4 yrs 2-3, 6-7, 11-13, 16-17, 21 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 16-18, 21 2-4, 6-9, 11-14, 16-18, 21 5 -6 yrs 2-3, 6-8, 11-13, 16-17, 21 2-4, 6-9, 11-14, 16-18, 21 2-9, 11-19, 21 7 – 8 yrs 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 16-18, 21 2-9, 11-19, 21 2-21 9 – 10 yrs 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 16-18, 21 2-9, 11-19, 21 2-21 11 – 12 yrs 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 16-18, 21 2-9, 11-19, 21 2-21 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Armscye binding (Cut 2)
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
1.0
7.2
18 – 24 mos
1.0
7.5
2 – 3 yrs
1.0
8.1
3 – 4 yrs
1.0
8.5
5 – 6 yrs
1.0
9.3
7 – 8 yrs
1.0
10.1
9 – 10 yrs
1.0
10.5
11 – 12 yrs
1.0
11.3
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – Use manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to Yoke Lining pieces.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create single bias binding.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch the side seams using a French seam.
- ARMSCYE – Open bias binding, place right sides together along armscye. Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim seam allowance in half. Notch seam allowance. Press. Understitch seam allowance to bias binding. Fold bias binding to the wrong side, cover stitching. Edgestitch ⅛ inch from edge of bias binding.
- BODICE – Use French seams to stitch the Center Front and the Side Front pieces together and the Center Back and the Side Back pieces together. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches from the center front to outside point of the neck on both sides of the Center Front and Center Back necklines.
- YOKE – Fold the inside edge of the Main Yoke ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Match short edges of both pieces of Main Yoke together keeping the fold pressed down. Stitch. Press seam allowances open. Repeat for other short edge of Main Yoke. Repeat folding inside edge to wrong side, matching short edge, stitching both short edges with the Yoke Lining. Match unfolded edge of Main Yoke, center front seam to center point of Center Front, right sides together. Then match the outside points of the neck to pattern marking on Main Yoke. Gather the Center Front and Center Back between the pattern markings. Stitch between the pattern markings. Place Yoke Lining onto Main Yoke, right sides together. Stitch all the way around the lower edge sandwiching Bodice between Main Yoke and Yoke Lining. Trim seam allowance. Clip along the curve. Press seam. Fold Yoke Lining to wrong side of Main Yoke. Clip folded seam allowance of Main Yoke and Yoke Lining. Topstitch along bottom edge, and around top inner edge. OPTIONAL – Add additional topstitching as desired.
- HEM – Fold raw edge over to the wrong side by ¼ inch. Press. Folder over by another ¼ inch. Press and pin. Topstitch close to the upper edge of the fold.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem – ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to both Yoke Lining pieces.
TIP – If you are using a lightweight fabric, apply interfacing to all Yoke pieces.0.3OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you will need to create single fold binding for the armscyes.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
1 . Side Seams1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the matching Side Front onto a Side Back, right sides together. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Repeat for the other Side Front and Side Back. Skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our dress. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
1.1With the wrong sides together (right sides out), place the matching Side Front and Side Back pieces together at the side seam. Pin.
1.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.3Carefully trim the seam allowance approximately in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the thread s andraw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
1.4Turn so the right sides are facing, press the side seam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.
TIP – Press the seam allowances towards the back before turning the dress right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowances sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
1.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Press the seam allowance towards the Side Back.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Side piece.
1.6Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the other matching Side Front and Side Back.
2 . Armscye2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edge of the armscye. Turn the serged edge under ½ inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Pin. Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:
2.1Open the single fold bias tape. Take a Side piece and place it right sides facing up. Place the binding along the armscye, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
2.2Stitch along the first fold, about ¼ inch from the raw edge.
2.3Trim the seam allowance ⅛ inch (in half).
Using the very tip of your scissors, make little snips into the seam allowance every ½ inch.
NOTE – Go slowly and make sure you do not cut into your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole!
2.4Press the bias binding and the seam allowance up, away from the armscye.
2.5Understitch the seam allowance to the bias binding ⅛ inch from the edge, or as close as you can.
NOTE – Understitching is when you stitch the seam allowance to the bias binding. This helps your bias tape stay rolled to the inside, so you can’t see it and makes the armhole edges crisp.
2.6Fold the binding to the wrong side, covering the seam allowance. Pin the folded edge of your binding just under your stitching line, enclosing all raw edges.
NOTE – The finished bias facing will be ¼ inch wide and won’t be seen from the right side.
2.7Edgestitch the binding to the armscye about ⅛ inch from the edge of the bias tape. This will become your topstitching on the front of the garment.
Trim off the binding excess.
2.8Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.7 for the other armscye on the other Side piece.
3 . Bodice3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place a Side Front onto the Center Front, right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the other Side Front to the other side of the Center Front. Repeat to attach the Side Back pieces to the Center Back piece. Press all seams towards the sides. Then skip to step 3.3 to gather the neckline of the bodice.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:
3.1You will now stitch each of the Center Front and Center Back pieces to the Side pieces sewn in step 1, using a French seam. You will be following the same steps as 1.1 to 1.5.
Place the Center Front onto the Side Front, wrong sides together. Pin and stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – When you attach the Center Front and Back, there is a pointed edge which will stick out slightly. You want the little triangle where the two pieces meet to be ½ inch away from the raw edge. That way, when you sew the two pieces together, they will meet up exactly.
Trim the seam allowance by about half. Turn so that wrong sides are together.
Press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch. Open bodice pieces and press the French seam towards the side.
3.2Repeat step 3.1 for the second side of the Center Front.
Repeat step 3.1 to attach the Side Back to both sides of the Center Back.
You will now have one full bodice piece.
3.3Stitch two rows of gathering stitches at the front neckline of the Center Front. Start at the center front and stitch to the outside point of the neck. Then repeat from center front to the opposite side.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start, and stop at each side seam. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!
NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.
3.4Repeat step 3.3 to gather the back neckline.
4 . Yoke4.1Fold the inside edge of a Main Yoke ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
NOTE – This is the shorter, inside curve, of the Yoke piece.
TIP – Snip along the curve into but not past the ½ inch seam allowance. This will make it easier to fold the curved edge.
4.2Repeat for the second Main Yoke piece.
4.3Place two Main Yoke pieces, right sides together, matching one short edge. Pin or clip together.
4.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.5Press the seam allowance open.
4.6Repeat steps 4.3 to 4.5 for the other short edge of the Main Yoke.
4.7Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.6 for the Yoke Lining.
4.8Find the mid-point of the Center Front and mark with a pin. Place the Main Yoke onto the Center Front, right sides together, matching raw edges and the center front seam with the mid-point of the Bodice. Pin at the center front.
NOTE – You are attaching the unfolded edge of the Main Yoke. Check you are attaching the correct side of the Yoke as it is slightly differently shaped.
4.9Match the outside point of the neck to the pattern marking on the Main Yoke. Pin.
4.10Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the bodice.
Gather all the way in between the pattern marking and the center front seam, until the bodice is the same length as that section of the Main Yoke.
Gently spread out the gathers so that they are evenly spaced. Pin.
4.11Repeat steps 4.9 to 4.10 to pin and gather the other side of the Center Front to the other side of the Main Yoke.
4.12Stitch in between the two pattern markings, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – When you reach the center, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot, and turn the bodice. Align it with the raw edge of the second half the neckline, drop the presser foot, and continue sewing.
4.13Repeat steps 4.8 to 4.12 to gather and stitch the Main Yoke to the Center Back.
4.14Place the Yoke Lining onto the Main Yoke, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – You are attaching the unfolded edge of the Yoke Lining.
NOTE – The bodice will be sandwiched between the two Yoke layers.
4.15Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.16Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Carefully snip around v-point at Center Front and Center Back to reduce bulk.
4.17Press both Main and Lining Yokes up, away from the bodice.
4.18Topstitch all the way around the bottom edge of the Yoke, ⅛ inch away from the seam.
Snip into the seam allowances of Main and Lining Yokes, approximately ¼ to ⅜ inch. This will help the top edges of the Yoke to lay flat.
NOTE – Do not snip all the way to the pressed fold.
4.19Keeping the pressed edges folded in, place the Main and Lining Yokes together along the inner edge. Pin.
4.20Topstitch all the way around the inner edge of the Yoke, ⅛ inch from the edge.
OPTIONAL – Add additional topstitching in between as desired.
5 . Hem5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the bottom edge. Do not remove any fabric. Fold ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. Repeat. Topstitch close to the folded edge.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
5.1Fold the bottom hem over to the wrong side by ¼ inch. Press.
5.2Repeat to press another ¼ inch, making sure the raw edge is tucked inside the fold. Pin.
5.3Topstitch close to the upper edge of the fold.
Your garment is now finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Yoke Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpyokedress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewYoke Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
A beautiful and flattering dress, the Yoke Dress is loose fitting, has no side seams and is gathered into the V-neck yoke. There are three length options to choose from: top, mid-thigh or knee length. Add detailing to the yoke neckline such as topstitching or embroidery or even color block for a fresh summery look.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Bodice apex to hems length
Hem circumference
Yoke
Top
Mid-Thigh
Knee
Top
Mid-Thigh
Knee
Inner Edge
Depth
12 – 18 mos
38.5
40.0
42.5
6.3
11.5
16.5
41.5
43.6
47.6
4.5
1.6
18 – 24 mos
39.5
41.0
43.5
7.3
12.7
16.2
42.5
45.2
49.1
4.6
1.6
2 – 3 yrs
41.5
43.0
45.5
8.2
14.5
18.3
44.0
48.0
50.5
5.0
1.6
3 – 4 yrs
43.5
45.0
47.5
9.5
16.6
21.2
45.3
48.5
52.0
5.1
1.6
5 – 6 yrs
46.0
47.5
49.5
12.0
20.1
25.2
49.4
53.3
57.0
5.3
1.6
7 – 8 yrs
48.5
50.0
52.0
14.0
22.5
28.0
51.6
58.1
61.6
5.5
1.6
9 – 10 yrs
51.0
52.5
54.5
14.7
23.2
29.0
54.0
62.5
66.4
5.6
1.6
11 – 12 yrs
53.5
55.0
57.0
15.5
24.7
31.2
57.6
67.3
71.2
6.0
1.6
Materials and ToolsMain and Lining: You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this top. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind.
A light to mid weight woven such as a cotton lawn, cotton voile, linen, silk, rayon challis, silk crepe, bubble crepe, crepe de chine, double gauze or silk satin will drape. Fabrics with more structure will create a boxy look.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Yoke
Top
Mid-Thigh
Above Knee
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.25
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.50
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.25
1.50
7 – 8 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.50
1.75
9 – 10 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.50
1.75
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.75
2.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Yoke
Top
Mid-Thigh
Above Knee
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.25
0.50
0.50
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.25
7 – 8 yrs
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.75
9 – 10 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.50
1.75
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.75
2.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Light weight interfacing – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Single fold bias binding – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.