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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Childs Jersey PJs
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Make a new set of pajamas with our new Jersey PJs sewing pattern that is guaranteed to be your favorite PJs yet! These comfy Jersey PJs have separate tops and bottoms with three length options which can be mixed and matched to create multiple set options. Make a PJ top with short, three-quarter length, or long sleeves finished with a neckband and cuffs. The bottoms have three lengths; short, three-quarter, or full length which can be finished with bands or a hem. The best part is that the bottoms can be finished with an elasticated waistband or yoga waistband for optimal comfort!
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes size 12mo-12yrs.
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- +Preparation
- Measure, measure, measure – Please measure the person you are making the pajamas for then check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished measurement chart. Sizes vary country to country and the sizing may match what you’re expecting, or it may not. To ensure you get the best fit, please use the size you fall into on our size chart, rather than what size you’ve worn in ready to wear clothing.
- Picking your size and blending – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes.
- When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement for the Top. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out or in, to the correct waist. Depending on your shape, you may need a full tummy adjustment.
- For the pants choose the size using the hip measurement. As this is elasticated this will recover back into your waist. If your tummy/waist is bigger than your hips, you will need to grade from your hip to your waist.
- Height adjustment – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length for that height bracket, keeping to the size your child falls into for chest for the top and hips for the bottoms. You can add or remove length throughout the pajamas.
- Follow this tutorial to make the adjustments to the bodice.
- If you need to lengthen or shorten the bottoms, we suggest doing this at the knee, which is halfway between the crotch and the hem.
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting, so you might not need to make any adjustments. Once you have made your muslin, if you feel you need to adjust the bicep, follow this tutorial.
- Shorts Inseam – If you prefer your shorts to be longer, double check the shorts inseam measurement and lengthen the inseam to your preferred length.
- Crotch fitting – Pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. For back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Follow this tutorial for any further pants fitting advice.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for the pajamas.
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut out the bodice front and back, front and back legs and a sleeve. Label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen. To save fabric use the shorts cut line.
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 1 inch wide Elastic – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Front Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Sleeves – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Cuffs – Fabric cut 2
- Neckband – Fabric cut 1
- Front Leg – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Leg – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Yoga Band – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Bands – Fabric cut 2
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fiber. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewJersey PJs
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These comfy PJs have separate tops and bottoms with three length options which can be mixed and matched to create multiple set options. The top has short, three-quarter or long sleeves which is finished with a neckband and cuffs. The bottoms have three lengths; short, three-quarter or full length. There is an option for an elasticated or yoga band waist. They can be finished with bands or a plain hem.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
Height Chest Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM 12 – 18 mos 30.0 76.0 19.0 48.0 18.5 47.0 19.7 50.0 18 – 24 mos 32.0 81.0 20.0 51.0 19.5 49.5 20.7 53.0 2 – 3 yrs 36.0 91.0 22.0 56.0 21.0 53.0 22.5 57.0 3 – 4 yrs 41.5 105.0 23.0 58.0 22.0 56.0 24.0 61.0 5 – 6 yrs 47.0 119.0 25.0 63.5 23.0 58.0 26.0 66.0 7 – 8 yrs 51.0 129.5 27.0 69.0 24.0 61.0 28.0 71.0 9 – 10 yrs 54.0 137.0 28.0 71.0 25.0 63.5 31.0 79.0 11 – 12 yrs 57.0 144.5 30.0 76.0 26.0 66.0 33.0 84.0 Finished Measurements (Inches)
PJ Top Overarm Cuff Chest Waist Center back length Long Three-quarter Short Bicep Long Three-quarter Short Hem 12 – 18 mos 22.6 21.2 11.7 10.0 6.5 4.6 6.7 6.5 6.7 6.7 22.7 18 – 24 mos 23.6 22.2 12.6 10.7 7.2 4.7 7.6 6.6 7.1 7.3 23.7 2 – 3 yrs 25.6 23.7 13.6 12.3 8.5 5.1 8.3 6.7 7.2 7.6 25.5 3 – 4 yrs 26.6 24.7 14.7 14.1 9.7 5.3 9.0 7.0 7.5 8.3 27.0 5 – 6 yrs 28.6 25.7 17.5 16.6 10.7 5.5 9.7 7.1 8.0 9.0 29.0 7 – 8 yrs 30.6 26.7 19.3 18.3 13.1 5.6 10.6 7.3 8.3 9.6 31.0 9 – 10 yrs 31.6 27.7 20.3 19.3 14.0 5.6 11.5 7.5 8.6 10.2 34.0 11 – 12 yrs 33.6 28.7 21.3 20.0 15.0 5.7 12.3 7.7 9.0 11.1 36.0 PJ Bottoms Inseam Hem Rise Waist Hips Shorts Three-quarter Full length Thigh Shorts Three-quarter Full length Front Back 12 – 18 mos 18.5 21.5 2.0 9.5 14.5 13.7 12.3 9.1 8.1 6.0 8.1 18 – 24 mos 19.5 22.5 2.0 10.5 15.5 14.3 13.1 9.6 8.6 6.1 8.2 2 – 3 yrs 21.0 24.2 2.0 10.5 15.5 15.1 13.6 10.2 9.3 6.3 8.5 3 – 4 yrs 22.0 25.7 2.0 11.5 16.5 15.7 14.3 10.7 10.0 6.5 8.6 5 – 6 yrs 23.0 27.7 2.0 14.2 18.3 17.0 15.6 11.5 10.5 6.7 9.0 7 – 8 yrs 24.0 29.7 2.0 16.6 21.6 18.3 17.0 12.1 11.1 7.1 9.2 9 – 10 yrs 25.0 32.7 2.0 19.3 24.5 20.7 18.6 12.7 11.6 7.5 9.7 11 – 12 yrs 26.0 34.7 2.0 23.0 27.2 21.3 20.2 13.2 12.3 8.0 10.0 Fitting NotesThese jersey pjs are semi fitted through the body and leg with a set in sleeve. The optional cuffs are drafted with a 20% opening.
Materials and ToolsFabric – Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a light or medium weight fabric such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal, cotton lycra, ponte, poly rayon spandex etc.
Your fabric will need to have at least 20 – 30 % stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.4 – 2.6 inches.
The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your tee maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2-way stretch (only stretches in one direction).
Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
Ribbing can be used for the Cuffs and Neckband.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top – Sleeve length Bottom Short Three-quarter Long Shorts Three-quarter Full length 12 – 18 mos 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.75 18 – 24 mos 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.75 2 – 3 yrs 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.75 3 – 4 yrs 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.75 1.00 5 – 6 yrs 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.50 1.00 1.25 7 – 8 yrs 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.50 1.00 1.25 9 – 10 yrs 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 1.00 1.25 11 – 12 yrs 0.75 1.00 1.00 0.75 1.25 1.25 * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Top Short sleeve Three-quarter sleeve Long sleeve 12 – 24 mos 2-8, 10 2-8, 10-11 2-8, 10-11 2 – 4 yrs 2-10 2-11 2-11 5 – 10 yrs 2-10 2-11 2-12 11 – 12 yrs 2-10 2-12 2-12 Bottoms Shorts OPTIONAL Bands Three-quarter length OPTIONAL Bands Full length OPTIONAL Bands OPTIONAL Yoga Band 12 – 24 mos 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-24 13-15, 18-20, 23-25 23-24 3-16, 18-21, 23-26 23-24 26-27 2 – 4 yrs 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-24 13-15, 18-20, 23-25 23-24 3-16, 18-21, 23-26 23-24 26-27 5 – 8 yrs 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-24 13-16, 18-21, 23-26 23-24 3-16, 18-21, 23-26 23-24 26-27 9 – 10 yrs 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-25 13-16, 18-21, 23-26 23-24 13-27 23-24 26-27 11 – 12 yrs 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-25 13-27 23-24 13-27 23-24 26-27 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Top Short sleeve Three-quarter sleeve Long sleeve 12 – 18 mos 2-3, 5, 7-8, 10-12 2-3, 5, 7-8, 10-12 2-3, 5, 7-8, 10-12 18 – 24 mos 2-5, 7-12 2-5, 7-12 2-5, 7-12 2 – 4 yrs 2-5, 7-12 2-5, 7-12 2-5, 7-12 5 – 8 yrs 2-12 2-5, 7-12 2-5, 7-12 9 – 12 yrs 2-12 2-12 2-5, 7-12 Bottoms Shorts OPTIONAL Bands Three-quarter length OPTIONAL Bands Full length OPTIONAL Bands OPTIONAL Yoga Band 12 – 24 mos 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-24 13-15, 18-20, 23-25 23-24 3-16, 18-21, 23-26 24-25 26-27 2 – 4 yrs 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-24 13-15, 18-20, 23-25 23-24 3-16, 18-21, 23-26 24-25 26-27 5 – 6 yrs 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-24 13-16, 18-21, 23-26 23-24 3-16, 18-21, 23-26 24-25 26-27 7 – 10 yrs 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-25 13-16, 18-21, 23-26 23-24 13-27 24-25 26-27 11 – 12 yrs 13-14, 18-19, 23-24 23-25 13-27 23-24 13-27 24-25 26-27 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Top Cuff Short sleeve (Cut 2) Three-quarter sleeve (Cut 2) Long sleeve (Cut 2) Neckband (Cut 1) Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length 12 – 18 mos 6.0 2.3 5.7 2.3 5.7 2.3 12.0 2.3 18 – 24 mos 6.3 2.3 6.0 2.3 6.0 2.3 12.3 2.3 2 – 3 yrs 7.0 2.3 6.3 2.3 6.0 2.3 13.0 2.3 3 – 4 yrs 7.3 2.3 6.6 2.3 6.1 2.3 13.5 2.3 5 – 6 yrs 8.0 2.3 7.0 2.3 6.2 2.3 14.0 2.3 7 – 8 yrs 8.7 2.3 7.2 2.3 6.5 2.3 14.5 2.3 9 – 10 yrs 9.4 2.3 7.6 2.3 6.6 2.3 15.0 2.3 11 – 12 yrs 10.1 2.3 8.0 2.3 6.7 2.3 15.6 2.3 Bottoms OPTIONAL Bands Shorts (Cut 2) Three-quarter (Cut 2) Full length (Cut 2) OPTIONAL Yoga Waistband (Cut 1) OPTIONAL Waist elastic (Cut 1) Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length 12 – 18 mos 10.2 2.3 7.5 2.3 6.6 2.3 15.5 6.7 1.0 17.5 18 – 24 mos 11.0 2.3 8.0 2.3 7.2 2.3 16.5 6.7 1.0 18.5 2 – 3 yrs 11.6 2.3 8.6 2.3 8.0 2.3 18.0 6.7 1.0 20.0 3 – 4 yrs 12.3 2.3 9.2 2.3 8.5 2.3 19.6 6.7 1.0 21.0 5 – 6 yrs 13.6 2.3 10.0 2.3 9.0 2.3 21.6 6.7 1.0 22.0 7 – 8 yrs 15.1 2.3 10.5 2.3 9.6 2.3 24.0 6.7 1.0 23.0 9 – 10 yrs 16.7 2.3 11.0 2.3 10.2 2.3 26.5 6.7 1.0 24.0 11 – 12 yrs 18.5 2.3 11.6 2.3 11.0 2.3 29.0 6.7 1.0 25.0 Cutting Checklist:
Top
Bottoms
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting
- + Instructions
- BODICE – Stitch Front and Back right sides together at shoulder seam. Find and mark center of Sleeve. Place Sleeve onto bodice right sides together, matching center of Sleeve to shoulder seam. Stitch. Repeat to attach second Sleeve. Place Front, Back and Sleeve right sides together at side seam. Stitch. Repeat on other side.
- NECKBAND – Fold Neckband in half widthwise right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Press seam. Fold Neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Find and mark quarter points of Neckband and bodice neckline. Working from RIGHT side of neckline, place Neckband around neckline, matching raw edges and quarter points. Pin. Press seam down.
- CUFFS – Fold Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together matching short edge. Stitch. Press seam. Fold Cuff in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Find and mark quarter points of Cuff and Sleeve. Place Cuff over Sleeve hem, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Stitch. Repeat for other Sleeve.
- HEM – Finish raw edge. Fold hem ½ inch to wrong side. Topstitch.
- LEGS – Place Front and Back Leg right sides together at side seam. Stitch. Place Front and Back Leg right sides together at inseam. Stitch. Repeat with other Front and Back Legs. Turn one Leg right side out. Place that Leg inside other Leg right sides together, matching inseams. Stitch.
- YOGA BAND OPTION – Fold Yoga Band in half widthwise right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Press seam to one side. Fold Yoga Band in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Find and mark quarter points. OPTIONAL Elastic: Overlap ends of elastic ½ inch and stitch. Place elastic inside at fold. Stitch. Place Yoga Band over waist right sides together, matching the quarter points. Stitch.
- ELASTIC OPTION – Overlap ends of elastic ½ inch and stitch. Finish waist raw edge. Place elastic to inside waist edge. Pin. Fold waist edge over to wrong side by 1 ¼ inches. Stitch 1 inch away from folded edge.
- OPTIONAL BANDS – Fold Band in half widthwise right sides together, matching short edge. Stitch. Press seam. Find and mark quarter points of Band and Leg. Place Band over hem right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Stitch. Repeat for other Leg.
- OPTIONAL HEM – Finish raw edge. Fold hem ½ inch to wrong side. Topstitch. Repeat for second Leg.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem – ½ inch
Sewing –
TOP
BOTTOM
1 . TOP - BodiceSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem – ½ inch
1.1Place Front and Back right sides together at the shoulder seam. Pin.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
TIP – You may add clear elastic to this seam if preferred. Clear elastic can help stabilize the seam and help keep it from stretching out due to use.
1.3Find and mark the center of a Sleeve. Place the Sleeve onto the bodice right sides together, aligning the center of the Sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin.
1.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
1.5Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.4 to attach the second Sleeve.
1.6Place the Front and Back right sides together at the side seam. Fold the Sleeve right sides together matching the underarm seam. Pin.
1.7Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
1.8Repeat steps 1.6 to 1.7 on the other side of the bodice.
2 . Neckband2.1Fold the Neckband in half widthwise, right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
2.3Press the seam allowance open if you are using a stretch stitch. Press the seam allowance to one side if you have serged. This will allow your Neckband to lay flat.
2.4Fold the Neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
2.5Find and mark the quarter points of the Neckband.
To do this fold the Neckband in half and mark, then fold in half again and mark.
2.6Find and mark the quarter points of the bodice neckline, starting with the centers of the front and back neckline.
2.7Working from the RIGHT side of the neckline, place the Neckband around the neckline, matching raw edges and quarter points. Pin.
TIP – Match the seam of the Neckband with a shoulder seam.
2.8Continue pinning, stretching the Neckband slightly to match the neckline.
2.9Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stretch the neckline, only stretch the Neckband. This will prevent waviness.
TIP – It is easier to stitch with the Neckband on top.
2.10If using a serger, here are two methods to finish the thread tails.
METHOD 1 – Use a wide eye needle to thread the tails back through the stitches.
METHOD 2 – Pull the threads back over the seam and stitch a few zigzag stitches over the seam allowance, securing the tails in place.
2.11Press the seam allowance down.
2.12OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the neckline with a twin needle, coverstitch, or stretch stitch.
3 . Cuffs3.1Fold a Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together matching the short edge. Pin.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Press the seam.
3.3Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
3.4Find and mark the quarter points of the Cuff and Sleeve.
3.5Place the Cuff over the Sleeve hem, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Pin.
TIP – Match the Cuff seam to the underarm seam.
3.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – It is easier to stitch with the Cuff on top.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.6 for the other Sleeve.
4 . Hem4.1Serge or zigzag the bottom edge of the bodice without removing any seam allowance.
4.2Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Pin.
4.3Topstitch using a ⅛ inch from the folded edge.
5 . BOTTOM - Legs5.1Place a Front and Back Leg right sides together at the side seam. Pin.
5.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.3Place the Front and Back Leg right sides together at the inseam. Pin.
5.4Serge or stitch the inseam using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 with the other Front and Back Legs.
5.5Turn one Leg right side out.
Place that Leg inside the other Leg right sides together, matching the inseams. Pin the rise.
5.6Serge or stitch the rise using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
If you are adding the Yoga Band OPTION, follow below. If you are adding the Elastic OPTION, skip to step 7.
6 . Yoga Band OPTION6.1Fold the Yoga Band in half widthwise right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
6.3Press the seam to one side.
6.4Fold the Yoga Band in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
6.5Find and mark the quarter points.
If you would like to add OPTIONAL Elastic, follow below. If you are not adding OPTIONAL Elastic, skip to step 6.9.
6.6OPTIONAL ELASTIC – Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each.
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.
FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their waist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their waist and will hold up the joggers, before continuing to the next step.
6.7Open the Yoga Band exposing the fold line and place the elastic inside at the fold.
Place a pin underneath the elastic, through both layers of the Yoga Band. Continue pinning around the Yoga Band.
6.8With the elastic against the top fold of the Waistband, stitch ⅜ inch below the bottom of the elastic. This creates a channel, so the elastic does not move about inside the Waistband.
6.9Place the Yoga Band over the waist of the pants , right sides together, matching the quarter points to the seams. Pin.
6.10Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Only stretch the Yoga Band, not the pants while stitching.
Skip to step 8 for the optional bands or step 9 for hemming.
7 . Elastic OPTION7.1FIT CHECK – Try on the cut length of the elastic. Elastics can have different tension. Adjust as needed.
Overlap the ends of your elastic by ½ inch each end (total amount of overlapping should be 1 inch). Pin.
Stitch together to form a circle.
TIP – Use zigzag stitches (forwards and backwards) and straight stitches next to them to make sure the elastic will stay together forever.
7.2Serge or zigzag the waist raw edge of your pants without removing any seam allowance.
7.3Place the elastic to the inside of the pants at the waist edge. Pin.
TIP – Pin the elastic from the outside of the pants to make it easier to remove the pins after stitching.
7.4Fold the waist edge over to the wrong side by 1 ¼ inches. Pin.
Stitch 1 inch away from the folded edge.
TIP – When you are about halfway, scrunch the already stitched fabric on your elastic, so the non-stitched half can be flat under your machine.
NOTE – You are going to stitch just under the elastic.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Bands, follow below. If you are hemming your bottoms, skip to step 9.
8 . OPTIONAL Bands8.1Fold a Band in half widthwise right sides together, matching the short edge. Pin.
8.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
8.3Press the seam.
8.4Find and mark the quarter points of the Band and Leg hem.
8.5Place the Band over the hem right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Pin.
8.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
TIP – It is easier to stitch with the Band on top.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.6 for the other Leg.
Your Jersey PJs are finished!
9 . OPTIONAL Hem9.1Serge or zigzag stitch the hem of the Leg without removing any seam allowance.
Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side and pin.
9.2Stitch along the hem at approximately ½ inch, using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
9.3Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 for the other Leg.
Your Jersey PJs are finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Jersey PJs are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpjerseypjs.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewJersey PJs
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These comfy PJs have separate tops and bottoms with three length options which can be mixed and matched to create multiple set options. The top has short, three-quarter or long sleeves which is finished with a neckband and cuffs. The bottoms have three lengths; short, three-quarter or full length. There is an option for an elasticated or yoga band waist. They can be finished with bands or a plain hem.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
Height Chest Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM 12 – 18 mos 30.0 76.0 19.0 48.0 18.5 47.0 19.7 50.0 18 – 24 mos 32.0 81.0 20.0 51.0 19.5 49.5 20.7 53.0 2 – 3 yrs 36.0 91.0 22.0 56.0 21.0 53.0 22.5 57.0 3 – 4 yrs 41.5 105.0 23.0 58.0 22.0 56.0 24.0 61.0 5 – 6 yrs 47.0 119.0 25.0 63.5 23.0 58.0 26.0 66.0 7 – 8 yrs 51.0 129.5 27.0 69.0 24.0 61.0 28.0 71.0 9 – 10 yrs 54.0 137.0 28.0 71.0 25.0 63.5 31.0 79.0 11 – 12 yrs 57.0 144.5 30.0 76.0 26.0 66.0 33.0 84.0 Finished Measurements (Inches)
PJ Top Overarm Cuff Chest Waist Center back length Long Three-quarter Short Bicep Long Three-quarter Short Hem 12 – 18 mos 22.6 21.2 11.7 10.0 6.5 4.6 6.7 6.5 6.7 6.7 22.7 18 – 24 mos 23.6 22.2 12.6 10.7 7.2 4.7 7.6 6.6 7.1 7.3 23.7 2 – 3 yrs 25.6 23.7 13.6 12.3 8.5 5.1 8.3 6.7 7.2 7.6 25.5 3 – 4 yrs 26.6 24.7 14.7 14.1 9.7 5.3 9.0 7.0 7.5 8.3 27.0 5 – 6 yrs 28.6 25.7 17.5 16.6 10.7 5.5 9.7 7.1 8.0 9.0 29.0 7 – 8 yrs 30.6 26.7 19.3 18.3 13.1 5.6 10.6 7.3 8.3 9.6 31.0 9 – 10 yrs 31.6 27.7 20.3 19.3 14.0 5.6 11.5 7.5 8.6 10.2 34.0 11 – 12 yrs 33.6 28.7 21.3 20.0 15.0 5.7 12.3 7.7 9.0 11.1 36.0 PJ Bottoms Inseam Hem Rise Waist Hips Shorts Three-quarter Full length Thigh Shorts Three-quarter Full length Front Back 12 – 18 mos 18.5 21.5 2.0 9.5 14.5 13.7 12.3 9.1 8.1 6.0 8.1 18 – 24 mos 19.5 22.5 2.0 10.5 15.5 14.3 13.1 9.6 8.6 6.1 8.2 2 – 3 yrs 21.0 24.2 2.0 10.5 15.5 15.1 13.6 10.2 9.3 6.3 8.5 3 – 4 yrs 22.0 25.7 2.0 11.5 16.5 15.7 14.3 10.7 10.0 6.5 8.6 5 – 6 yrs 23.0 27.7 2.0 14.2 18.3 17.0 15.6 11.5 10.5 6.7 9.0 7 – 8 yrs 24.0 29.7 2.0 16.6 21.6 18.3 17.0 12.1 11.1 7.1 9.2 9 – 10 yrs 25.0 32.7 2.0 19.3 24.5 20.7 18.6 12.7 11.6 7.5 9.7 11 – 12 yrs 26.0 34.7 2.0 23.0 27.2 21.3 20.2 13.2 12.3 8.0 10.0 Materials and ToolsFabric – Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a light or medium weight fabric such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal, cotton lycra, ponte, poly rayon spandex etc.
Your fabric will need to have at least 20 – 30 % stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.4 – 2.6 inches.
The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your tee maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2-way stretch (only stretches in one direction).
Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
Ribbing can be used for the Cuffs and Neckband.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top – Sleeve length Bottom Short Three-quarter Long Shorts Three-quarter Full length 12 – 18 mos 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.75 18 – 24 mos 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.75 2 – 3 yrs 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.75 3 – 4 yrs 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.75 1.00 5 – 6 yrs 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.50 1.00 1.25 7 – 8 yrs 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.50 1.00 1.25 9 – 10 yrs 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 1.00 1.25 11 – 12 yrs 0.75 1.00 1.00 0.75 1.25 1.25 * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
- 1 inch wide Elastic – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.