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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Classic Belt
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This quick and easy to sew classic belt sewing pattern is a wardrobe staple that will complete any outfit. It is adjustable with a pin and buckle closure and comes in two width options. Includes sizes 1-13.
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- +Preparation
- Picking your size – Choose your size from the waist measurements in the Size Chart above. If your waist measurements are in between sizes, choose the closest size and adjust the Belt by tightening or loosening it at the eyelets. There are five eyelet placements available to adjust the buckle to. The finished measurements above are for the Belt laid out flat. If you do not want to wear it at your natural waist, measure where you want to wear it, and use that measurement in the Size Chart above.
- Adjusting the length – You can add length into the middle of the pattern piece if you would prefer a longer length Belt.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 5x Eyelets ¼ inch / 5 mm wide
- NOTE – Additional grommets can be added to increase the versatility of the belt.
- 1x OPTIONAL Eyelet for the Buckle prong
- 1x 1 inch / 25 mm wide Buckle with prong
- OPTIONAL Mid to heavy weight interfacing or interlining for structure – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- 5x Eyelets ¼ inch / 5 mm wide
- NOTE – Additional grommets can be added to increase the versatility of the belt.
- 1x OPTIONAL Eyelet for the Buckle prong
- 1x 1 inch / 50 mm wide Buckle with prong
- OPTIONAL Mid to Heavy weight interfacing or interlining for structure – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. This Belt may need a heavier weight to stop it from folding over when sitting down.
- Thread to match
- Belt:
- Fabric cut 1
- Lining cut 1
- OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Belt Loop – Fabric cut 1
- Belt:
- Fabric cut 1
- Lining cut 1
- OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Belt Loop – Fabric cut 1
Project OverviewClassic Belt
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This classic belt is fastened with eyelets and a pin buckle. Available in two widths – Narrow and Standard. It ranges from a 22 to a 50 inch waist. Pop it over a dress or wear it with your favorite skirt or jeans.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
1-13
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
Waist
Inches
CM
1
22.0
56.0
2
23.0
58.0
3
24.0
61.0
4
26.0
66.0
5
27.0
68.5
6
29.0
73.5
7
31.0
79.0
8
33.0
84.0
9
36.0
91.0
10
39.0
99.0
11
43.0
109.0
12
47.0
119.0
13
50.0
127.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Narrow Belt
Standard Belt
Width
Length
Width
Length
1
1.0
39.0
2.0
39.0
2
1.0
40.0
2.0
40.0
3
1.0
41.0
2.0
41.0
4
1.0
43.0
2.0
43.0
5
1.0
44.0
2.0
44.0
6
1.0
46.0
2.0
46.0
7
1.0
48.0
2.0
48.0
8
1.0
50.0
2.0
50.0
9
1.0
53.0
2.0
53.0
10
1.0
56.0
2.0
56.0
11
1.0
60.0
2.0
60.0
12
1.0
64.0
2.0
64.0
13
1.0
68.0
2.0
68.0
Fitting NotesThis is an adjustable belt which has a pin buckle on one side, and is secured with a belt loop on the other side.
Materials and ToolsYou will need a non-stretch woven fabric for your Belt. Cotton, quilting cotton, denim, or cotton lawn are great choices. The same fabric can be used for the main and lining fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Narrow belt
Standard belt
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
1 – 2
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.75
3 – 8
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
9 – 10
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
11 – 13
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Narrow Belt:
Standard Belt:
Tools needed are sewing machine, iron, pins/clips, tailors chalk or disappearing ink pen, scissors, tape measure, eyelet pliers, optional awl, hammer, optional zipper foot and a ruler.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Narrow belt Standard belt 1 – 5 2-7 2-7 6 – 9 2-8 2-8 10 – 11 2-9 2-9 12 – 13 2-10 2-10 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Narrow belt Standard belt 1 – 5 2-7 2-7 6 – 8 2-8 2-8 9 – 10 2-9 2-9 11 – 12 2-10 2-10 13 2-11 2-11 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Narrow belt loop (Cut 1)
Standard belt loop (Cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
1 – 13
2.00
4.00
2.00
6.25
Cutting Checklist:
Narrow Belt OPTION:
Standard Belt OPTION:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all eyelet placements onto fabric.
- INTERFACING – Apply interfacing onto Main and Lining Belt pieces.
- BELT – Pin Main and Lining Belt pieces right sides together. Stitch leaving a 2-3 inch gap for turning. Clip corners and press. Turn and topstitch.
- BUCKLE – EYELET OPTION: Insert eyelet at pattern marking. BUTTONHOLE OPTION: Stitch a buttonhole, snip it open. BOTH OPTIONS: Slide the prong through the hole. Fold the excess fabric under towards the Belt Lining. Stitch.
- EYELETS – Insert eyelets at pattern markings.
- BELT LOOP – Fold the Belt Loop piece in half, length wise, right sides together. Stitch. Trim and press. Turn and press. Tuck one end inside the tube. Tuck raw edges in. Stitch. Slide over Belt.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all eyelet placements to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.4Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron interfacing onto the Belt pieces. If the fabric is sturdy you could omit this step, however, it is best to reinforce the area the eyelets are being inserted to. We recommend applying interfacing along this area.
1 . Belt1.1Place the Main Belt and Belt Lining pieces right sides together. Pin.
1.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-3-inch gap in the middle for turning.
1.3Clip the corners and press well.
OPTIONAL – Trim the seam allowance in half to reduce bulk. Do not trim the seam at the gap.
1.4Turn the Belt right side out through the gap. Press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
1.5Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance, enclosing the gap.
ALTERNATIVE: Hand stitch the gap using a slip stitch. The fabric will be folded under ½ inch, with the stitching along the folded edge.
2 . Buckle2.0You will need to create a ‘hole’ for the prong of the buckle. You can add an eyelet or sew a buttonhole for the prong to fit through. If you are adding an eyelet, follow steps 2.1 to 2.3, then skip to step 2.6. If you are sewing a buttonhole, skip to step 2.4.
2.1EYELET OPTION: Using a sharp awl or scissors, cut a small hole at the pattern marking.
TIP – It is easier to start off with a small hole. You can then adjust the size of the hole to fit the eyelet more easily. It needs to just be as big as the center of the eyelet.
2.2Eyelets come in two pieces. One with a longer shank and the second part (slightly flatter) is the washer.
Insert the shank piece on the Main Belt, through the hole.
Place the washer over the shank from the Belt Lining side.
Your Belt is now sandwiched between the shank and washer pieces of the eyelet.
2.3Hammer the eyelet into place using an eyelet press or the eyelet tool (this usually comes with the eyelet kit) and a hammer.
TIP – Work on a sturdy surface as you will need to knock the eyelet hardware into place with a hammer or heavy tool. You can protect your surface with a piece of scrap fabric.
TIP – Tap gently and check that neither the shank and washer or Belt have shifted.
2.4BUTTONHOLE OPTION: Stitch a buttonhole at the pattern marking.
TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric and/or denim can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!
TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread from bunching up. Sewing slowly will create a neater stitch. Alternatively, switch to a color matched, or contrasting regular thread if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty.
TIP – For heavy fabrics and medium weight denim, give your fabric a light bang with a mallet or hammer (with pressing cloth laid over it to protect the fabric) to break the fibers down before stitching the buttonholes. It’ll make the needle slide in much more smoothly.
TIP – If you have any other difficulty, change the needle to a fresh denim-weight needle. A fresh, straight, sharp needle can make all the difference.
2.5Snip the buttonhole open.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open the buttonhole. Placing a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.
2.6Insert the buckle prong through the buttonhole/eyelet. Fold the excess fabric under towards the Belt Lining. Pin.
2.7With the buckle at the end of the folded edge, stitch the two layers together, around all four sides.
TIP – Stitch a cross at the center for extra reinforcement.
TIP – Stitch as close to the buckle as you can. This will help prevent the buckle from sliding around.
TIP – Using a zipper foot here will enable you to get close to the buckle.
3 . Eyelets3.0TIP – Eyelets can be tricky. We recommend practicing inserting the eyelets onto a scrap piece of fabric first, before inserting the eyelets onto your Belt.
3.1Using a sharp awl or scissors, cut a small hole at the eyelet pattern markings.
TIP – It is easier to start off with a small hole. You can then adjust the size of the hole to fit the eyelet more easily. It needs to just be as big as the center of the eyelet.
3.2Eyelets come in two pieces. One with a longer shank and the second part (slightly flatter) is the washer.
Insert the shank piece on the Main Belt, through the hole.
Place the washer over the shank from the Belt Lining side.
Your Belt is now sandwiched between the shank and washer pieces of the eyelet.
3.3Hammer the eyelet into place using an eyelet press or the eyelet tool (this usually comes with the eyelet kit) and a hammer.
TIP – Work on a sturdy surface as you will need to knock the eyelet hardware into place with a hammer or heavy tool. You can protect your surface with a piece of scrap fabric.
TIP – Tap gently and check that neither the shank and washer or Belt have shifted.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the rest of the eyelets.
4 . Belt Loop4.1Fold the Belt Loop piece in half, length wise, right sides together. Pin.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Flatten the Belt Loop and press the seam allowance open, with it in the center.
4.3Trim the seam allowance, then turn right sides out.
TIPS FOR TURNING:
Method A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you have turned the tube right side out completely.
Method B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you have turned the tube right side out completely.
4.4Tuck one end of the Belt Loop under to the inside of the tube, tucking it approximately ½ inch inside the tube.
TIP – Use your fingers or a fine tool. The pointy end of a wooden skewer or the tip of the loop turner work well.
4.5Tuck the raw edges of the other side into the tube by approximately ½ inch.
4.6Edge stitch in place.
TIP – If your fabric is too thick, hand stitch the Belt Loop using a strong top stitching thread.
4.7Slide the Belt Loop onto the Belt. The Belt Loop should sit close to the Buckle.
NOTE – Try the Belt on and find where the Belt Loop sits comfortably for you, then tack in place. Some Belt Loops may be difficult to tack in place depending on the fabric used.
Your Classic Belt is now finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Classic Belt is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbelts.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2022
All Rights Reserved
Makers Gallery
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewClassic Belt
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This classic belt is fastened with eyelets and a pin buckle. Available in two widths – Narrow and Standard. It ranges from a 22 to a 50 inch waist. Pop it over a dress or wear it with your favorite skirt or jeans.
SizingSize Range
1-13
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
Waist
Inches
CM
1
22.0
56.0
2
23.0
58.0
3
24.0
61.0
4
26.0
66.0
5
27.0
68.5
6
29.0
73.5
7
31.0
79.0
8
33.0
84.0
9
36.0
91.0
10
39.0
99.0
11
43.0
109.0
12
47.0
119.0
13
50.0
127.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Narrow Belt
Standard Belt
Width
Length
Width
Length
1
1.0
39.0
2.0
39.0
2
1.0
40.0
2.0
40.0
3
1.0
41.0
2.0
41.0
4
1.0
43.0
2.0
43.0
5
1.0
44.0
2.0
44.0
6
1.0
46.0
2.0
46.0
7
1.0
48.0
2.0
48.0
8
1.0
50.0
2.0
50.0
9
1.0
53.0
2.0
53.0
10
1.0
56.0
2.0
56.0
11
1.0
60.0
2.0
60.0
12
1.0
64.0
2.0
64.0
13
1.0
68.0
2.0
68.0
Materials and ToolsYou will need a non-stretch woven fabric for your Belt. Cotton, quilting cotton, denim, or cotton lawn are great choices. The same fabric can be used for the main and lining fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Narrow belt
Standard belt
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
1 – 2
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.75
3 – 8
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
9 – 10
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
11 – 13
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Narrow Belt:
- 5x Eyelets ¼ inch / 5 mm wide
- NOTE – Additional grommets can be added to increase the versatility of the belt.
- 1x OPTIONAL Eyelet for the Buckle prong
- 1x 1 inch / 25 mm wide Buckle with prong
- OPTIONAL Mid to heavy weight interfacing or interlining for structure – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Standard Belt:
- 5x Eyelets ¼ inch / 5 mm wide
- NOTE – Additional grommets can be added to increase the versatility of the belt.
- 1x OPTIONAL Eyelet for the Buckle prong
- 1x 1 inch / 50 mm wide Buckle with prong
- OPTIONAL Mid to Heavy weight interfacing or interlining for structure – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. This Belt may need a heavier weight to stop it from folding over when sitting down.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, iron, pins/clips, tailors chalk or disappearing ink pen, scissors, tape measure, eyelet pliers, optional awl, hammer, optional zipper foot and a ruler.
- 5x Eyelets ¼ inch / 5 mm wide