Classic Blouse

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

NOTE – The button placement is marked on the Front Left (as worn) and the buttonhole placement on the Front Right (as worn).

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to the following pieces:
● 1x Collar
● 1x Collar Stand
● 2x Cuff

TIP – Trim half the seam allowance (¼ inch) off the interfacing pieces before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

Staystitching

We are going to be staystitching the neckline to help prevent it from stretching out while we are working with the cut pieces.

NOTE – Staystitching is a permanent line of stitches around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the collar won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we get the collar on.

Staystitch the Front necklines and armscyes, using a regular length straight stitch, in the direction of the arrows. It won’t be removed later so make sure to stay just inside the ½ inch seam allowance.

Stay stitch the back neckline and armscyes on the Back Yoke in the direction of the arrows.

Fold the Back right sides together, lining up the pattern markings of the box pleat.

Stick a pin straight down from the top edge of the fabric, through the markings.

Finger press the pleat flat along this fold, to give a nice crease in the center of the pleat.

With the wrong side facing up, open your Back and flatten the pleat, aligning the crease you made in the last step with your pin. This will center your inverted box pleat along the Back.

Add additional pins on either side of the original pin, to secure the pleat in place.

Baste your box pleat using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – A basting stitch is a long straight stitch used to hold something in place temporarily. This will be replaced in the next step when we attach the Back Yoke.

TIP – If your machine does not have a basting stitch option, set it to the longest straight stitch you can. There is no need to backstitch at the start or end of this stitch line, as it is temporary.

With right sides facing up, press your box pleat flat.

TIP – Press about an inch down your pleat, for a nice crisp pleat. This will also help when you attach your Back Yoke in the next step.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 2.1 to 2.3. Serge using a ½ seam allowance. Skip to step 2.6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Fold each of the Back Yoke pieces in half and place a pin in the center of the straight bottom edge (not the neck edge).

TIP – Place a pin in the center of the inverted box pleat on your Back piece. This will help align the Back Yoke center to the center of the Back.

Lay one Back Yoke piece onto the Back, right sides together, matching centers.

Continue pinning at the ½ inch seam allowance, not the raw edge.

Flip these pieces over, so the Back is wrong side up.

Lay your second Back Yoke, right side facing down, on top of this, matching the centers.

Using the ½ inch seam line again, pin the rest of this Back Yoke along the top edge.

You are creating a sandwich that consists of Back Yoke facing up, Back facing down, then Back Yoke facing down.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching all three layers together.

Trim the seam allowance in half.

Flip both Back Yoke pieces up. Press the seam up.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch ⅛ inch along the bottom edge of the Back Yoke.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 3.1 to 3.3 then serge the shoulder seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Follow step 3.5. OPTIONAL – Topstitch Yoke using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Lay your Front pieces, checking correct Front Bodice piece is on the correct shoulder, onto the Back piece, right sides together. Pin in place leaving out the outer edge Back Yoke piece.

You’re going to enclose the shoulder seams from the inside out using the burrito method. It’s called this as everything gets rolled up inside the yokes like a burrito.

TIP – If you have difficulty visualizing this, skip ahead to step 3.5 and have a look at what it will look like when complete, then come back and continue.

Do not include the outer Back Yoke in the roll – flip this piece down towards the bottom.

Starting at the bottom edge of the Bodice roll the Front and the Back pieces tightly together up towards the shoulder seams.

Ensure the blouse is rolled tightly enough that you can flip the outer Back Yoke on top and match up the shoulder seams. Pin into place.

Pin along each shoulder edge.

NOTE – Keep the outer Back Yoke flipped down and out of the roll.

Bring the outer Back Yoke to the back, around the rolled Bodice pieces, align and pin to the previously pinned pieces at the shoulder seams.

Stitch both shoulder seams using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim seam allowances in half.

Pull your Bodice pieces out through one side, or through the neck of your Back Yoke. Go slowly and gently, so you don’t stretch out any cut fabric edges.

Press your shoulder seams.

Topstitch the Back Yoke at the shoulder seam using ⅛ seam allowance.

Lay the Front Left (as worn) wrong side facing up. Fold the center straight edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press, creating a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Front. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when it is stitched.

OPTIONAL Interfacing – If you are using a lightweight fabric, cut a piece of interfacing the length of the center Front and 1 ⅛ wide.

Unfold the memory hem. Press the interfacing onto the wrong side of the Front Left over the buttons pattern markings, using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Fold the memory hem again. Fold the Front Left at the pattern marking. Press.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

OPTIONAL Interfacing – If you are using a lightweight fabric, cut a piece of interfacing the length of the center Front and 1 inch wide.

Press the interfacing onto the wrong side of the Front Right (as worn) over the buttonholes pattern markings, using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Fold the center Front 1 inch to the wrong side. Press.

Fold another 1 inch to the wrong side. Press.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the outer folded edge.

Open out the Placket flat and press the stitched edge flat over the Front.

Press.

Topstitch the center edge of the Placket ⅛ inch away from the edge.

Place two Collar pieces right sides together, matching both short and the top long edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance and snip the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn right side out, pushing out the corners. Roll the seam a little to the underside.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Collar approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.

Fold the bottom edge of the non-interfaced Collar Stand ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Find and mark the center of the Collar and Collar Stand.

With right sides together, sandwich the Collar between the Collar Stands, matching the non-interfaced Collar Stand to the non-interfaced Collar. The Collar Stand notches will match the end of the Collar.

NOTE – These will match along the ½ inch seam allowance, but not necessarily along the raw edges.

Starting at the end of the Collar Stands, stitch together using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Make sure you do not catch the Collar in the outer curved seam.

Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out and press the seam allowance down.

Find and mark the centers of the Back neckline and raw edge of the interfaced Collar Stand.

Place the interfaced Collar Stand onto the back neckline, right sides together, matching center points and ends. Pin.

NOTE – Pin along ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

The ½ inch seam allowance helps the Collar stand up when the blouse is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the Collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Take care when doing this to go no further than halfway into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.

Press the seam allowance up, into the Collar.

Fold the Collar Stand down over the seam allowance and pin the memory hem in place.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance all the way around the Collar Stand, enclosing the seam allowance into the Collar.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Front and Back side seams right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance on both sides. Skip to step 8.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of your blouse. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.

With the wrong sides together (right sides out), place the Front Right and Back pieces together. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Turn right side out and press the seam as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.6 to attach the Front Left and Back.

Fold the Sleeve Slit in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Press.

Open the Sleeve Slit and fold the long edges towards the middle. Press.

Cut along the pattern marking on a Sleeve for the slit.

Open the Sleeve Slit piece. Place the Sleeve Slit along the cut edge of the slit, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn the Sleeve over. Fold the Sleeve Slit in half so the folded edge matches up with the seam. The raw edges should now be hidden inside.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Slit to the Sleeve. If you don’t know how to slipstitch, follow along.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through the Slit just inside the seam allowance. Pull the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the folded edge of the Slit, to create a stitch that about ⅛ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

Fold the Sleeve at the slit right sides are together. Pin the slit together diagonally across the top.

Stitch diagonally across the top of the slit.

With wrong side facing up, fold the slit towards the side of the Sleeve with the pattern marking. Pin at the bottom of the slit.

Baste the Slit to the Sleeve using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Fold the Sleeve wrong sides together, lining up the pattern markings.

Stick a pin straight down from the raw edge of the fabric, through the markings.

With right side facing up, fold the Sleeve at the pattern marking towards the Slit, creating a pleat. Pin.

Baste your pleat using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.13 to the other Sleeve.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Sleeve right sides together and pin the sleeve seam. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Find and mark the center of the Sleeve head and the armscye. Place Sleeve inside Bodice matching centers. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press. Repeat for the second Sleeve.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Stitch the Sleeve seam using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 7.1 to 7.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Repeat step 9.1 for the other Sleeve.

Find and mark the center of the Sleeve head and the armscye (it is opposite the side seam).

You are going to stitch the Sleeve into the armscye using a French seam following the same steps we did for steps 7.1 to 7.6.

Turn the Sleeve wrong side out. Place the Sleeve inside the Bodice, wrong sides together, matching the center of the Sleeve to the armscye midpoint and the Sleeve seam to the side seam. Pin.

NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the Sleeve the correct way.

Continue pinning the Sleeve, easing it along at the seam allowance.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Repeat steps 9.2 to 9.5 with the second Sleeve.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin together an interfaced and a non-interfaced Cuff and serge one long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn right side out and press. Open Cuff and press the long raw edge of interfaced Cuff ½ inch towards the wrong side. Find center point of Cuff and Sleeve raw edge and mark them with pins. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Follow steps 10.7 to 10.13.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

With the right sides together, pin an interfaced Cuff piece to a non-interfaced Cuff piece, along one of the long edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If your fabric is a mid-weight cotton you may need to trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn right side out and press.

Open out the Cuff and press the raw edge of the interfaced Cuff long edge ½ inch to the wrong side.

TIP – If you are using a sheer fabric, I suggest having your interfaced Cuff on the outside, so your stitching doesn’t show. You will need to press the raw edge of the non-interfaced Cuff in this step and attach the interfaced Cuff in the next step.

Find the center of your non-interfaced Cuff and the center of your Sleeve (with the slit closed) and mark with a pin.

With right sides together, matching the centers, pin the unfolded edge of the Cuff to the Sleeve.

NOTE – Your Cuff will be 1 inch longer than your Sleeve, ½ inch on each side.

Stitch along the Sleeve using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Take the interfaced Cuff with the folded edge and fold it right sides together, matching the unsewn long edge to the sewn long edge of the Cuff.

Pin the short edges of the Cuff together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the stitch line you sewed in step 10.6.

NOTE – Make sure the Sleeve doesn’t get caught in these stitches.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn the Cuff right sides out and press.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Stitch the folded seam of the Cuff to the Sleeve using a slipstitch, as you did in step 8.6.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Cuff using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Stitch the buttonholes, using the markings you previously transferred.

TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin at the end to stop it from going all the way though.

NOTE – We’re showing you the traditional way to sew a buttonhole (horizontally) as it allows ‘give’ in the Sleeve, so the Cuff can move slightly with you. If you would prefer a tighter fit or a Cuff that does not move as much, try the Cuff on to check the fit, then sew the buttonhole vertically using your preferred placement.

Try on the blouse to determine where you would like your buttons. Stitch in place.

TIP – You can tighten or loosen the Cuff by moving your button.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.13 for the other Cuff.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem without removing any seam allowance. Then follow below.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Fold the hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Re-fold ¼ inch again and press creating a double hem.

Topstitch the hem in place by stitching close to the folded edge.

TIP – You want your stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the blouse, so it looks uniform from the outside. To do this, use your presser foot or a marking on your foot plate on your sewing machine to line up your fabric as you stitch.

FIT CHECK – If you find you regularly have gaping at the bust when you wear buttoned blouses, you can prevent this from happening by adding a buttonhole at the right place. Try your blouse on now. Mark the center bust for a buttonhole. Now, evenly distribute your buttonholes from this point. Be sure to place a button at the very top, just under your Collar. Also, match new button markings to your new buttonholes before attaching.

Using the markings you transferred onto the Front and Collar Stand, stitch buttonholes at each marking.

TIP – Test a buttonhole on a scrap of fabric first to check it fits your button, and your placket in the direction you want it to.

TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.

NOTE – Traditionally, the buttonholes will be on the right side as worn (with buttons on the left).

Try on your blouse and mark the corresponding button placement, adjusting to suit your fit.

NOTE – Your buttonholes can be aligned either vertically up and down, or horizontally across the Button stand. You’ll notice ready-to-wear shirts are often a mix of the two techniques and it is often a matter of personal preference. I prefer my buttonholes horizontal as it means the Button stand cannot move up and down, but it does mean the Button stand can open and close slightly while buttoned. To counter this, many blouses have a horizontal buttonhole at the top with the rest vertical. Another consideration is the size of your button. If your button is wider than ½ inch, you may find your buttonhole ends up being wider than the top stitching if you do it horizontally. In this case, you would need vertical buttonholes.

TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure they will line up. If needed, move any buttons to align better with your buttonholes.

Your Classic Blouse is finished!