Progress Menu
x
Home / Womens / Garments, Swimwear
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
5
![]()
![]()
Classic Swimsuit
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
The Classic Swimsuit is a timeless one-piece swimsuit with shaped cups, full lining, and many additional support options. Includes sizes XXS-5XL with cups.
Not a member yet? Click here to sign up
- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting your size – Choose your size by cup size, then by your hip measurement in the size chart. If your hip and waist measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your chest measurement to the size for your waist.
- Bust adjustment – For the cups to fit correctly, there should be no bulging, gaping, or spilling out of the cups. If this is happening, try a bigger cup. If you have gaping or wrinkling cups, try a smaller cup size. For correct fit, the underwire should sit under each breast, sitting in the crease and end under your arms. If the underwire doesn’t sit flat against your ribcage, lifts away from the body, or digs in anywhere, try a bigger cup.
- Height adjustment – This swimsuit is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter we recommend adjusting mid-way through the Front and Back, and adjust the Strap as needed. For more help with height adjustment follow steps 1 to 3 in our tutorial.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Use an inexpensive lycra swim fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams. You can adjust the length of your strap if needed.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Underwire Casing – This is used as an enclosure for the underwires, while stabilizing the cup to frame seam. We suggest a plush underwire casing as it is softer against the body, as well as strong and durable. Approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Underwires – Underwires support the breasts by spreading out the stress of breast support from the cups into the Front. By using them you will get the best lift and support possible from your swimsuit. Underwires are most commonly made of metal and come in a variety of diameters and lengths. We recommend using fully coated steel flat wires. You will need 1x pair Full Cup Underwire – see chart below for sizing. Please note this is a suggested length/size. Please adjust according to your personal shape and fit.
- OPTIONAL Pre-finished foam padding: Cut and sew foam/bra foam/polylaminate foam padding/sheet foam – approximately ¼ yard. Adding foam padding into the swimsuit cups will add more coverage, structure, and support. Foam padding is a layer of foam which is laminated with fabric on both sides. It is available in different thicknesses, qualities, and fabric lamination.
- ⅜ inch Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes. NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when its exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, and salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- OPTIONAL Strap elastic – Cotton swimwear elastic approximately 1.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thin Strap OPTION: ⅜ inch wide
- Wide Strap OPTION: ¾ inch wide
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.
- For bridge, leg openings, Back, Cups and Thin Straps – use ⅜ inch wide Elastic
- For Wide Straps – use ¾ inch wide Elastic
- Center Cup – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Foam cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Cup – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Foam cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Power Bar – Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Thin Strap OPTION – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Elastic cut 2
- OR Wide Strap OPTION – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Elastic cut 2
- Plain Front OPTION:
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- OR Gathered Front OPTION:
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric Cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Lining – Plain OPTION: Front – Lining cut 1 on fold.
- NOTE – You will need to cut the Lining from the Plain OPTION Front pattern piece
- Center Cup – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Foam cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Middle Cup – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Foam cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Cup – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Foam cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Power Bar – Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Thin Strap OPTION – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Elastic cut 2
- OR Wide Strap OPTION – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Elastic cut 2
- Plain Front OPTION:
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- OR Gathered Front OPTION:
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric Cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Lining – Plain OPTION: Front – Lining cut 1 on fold.
- NOTE – You will need to cut the Lining from the Plain OPTION Front pattern piece
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewClassic Swimsuit
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
This fully lined bra cup shaped swimsuit has a regular cut leg, with a plain or gathered front. Add optional power mesh for additional support. You can also add foam cups, underwires and a power bar to the cups for extra support. It has a straight back with straight straps – choose between thin or wide straps with optional elastic.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
Measuring Your Cup Size
You will need to determine your cup size (full bust – blue line). We recommend measuring wearing an underwired supportive bra without padding.
The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. Cup sizes range from AA – M. Please see the chart below (in INCHES) on how to calculate your cup size.
Cup size
Difference from underbust
Cup size
Difference from underbust
AA
0.5
G
7.0
A
1.0
H
8.0
B
2.0
I
9.0
C
3.0
J
10.0
D
4.0
K
11.0
E
5.0
L
12.0
F
6.0
M
13.0
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Cups A – F
Under
bustWaist
Hips
Center front length
Center back length
XXS
23.5
21.1
26.5
20.0
17.5
XS
25.0
23.0
28.0
20.3
18.0
S
26.5
23.6
29.5
20.6
18.3
M
28.0
25.3
31.0
21.2
19.0
L
29.6
24.0
32.6
22.0
19.5
XL
32.0
29.5
35.0
22.5
20.0
XXL
34.0
32.5
37.3
23.2
20.5
3XL
36.3
35.5
39.6
24.2
21.7
4XL
38.6
39.0
42.0
25.0
22.3
5XL
41.0
42.1
44.2
26.0
23.5
Cups G – M
Under
bustWaist
Hips
Center front length
Center back length
XXS
26.2
22.0
26.5
21.0
18.1
XS
28.0
23.5
28.0
21.2
18.6
S
29.6
24.5
29.6
21.6
19.1
M
31.3
26.5
31.1
22.0
19.5
L
33.0
28.0
32.7
22.6
20.0
XL
35.5
30.6
35.0
23.2
20.6
XXL
38.0
33.3
37.4
24.0
21.1
3XL
40.6
36.7
39.7
25.0
22.6
4XL
43.2
40.3
42.0
25.7
23.0
5XL
45.7
43.7
44.4
26.7
24.0
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 40-50% stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swimsuit fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swimsuit fabric instead of a swimsuit lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
OPTIONAL Power mesh – For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to the Front, Back and Cup pieces. You can add this to just the Main or Lining, or to both. You can also add a “power bar” as a support panel which runs down the side of the Cup. This will lift and support the bust.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Cups AA-F
Cups ONLY
OPTIONAL Power Bar
Plain OPTION (without cups)
Gathered OPTION (without cups)
ALL IN ONE Plain OPTION (with cups)
ALL IN ONE Gathered OPTION
(with cups)OPTIONAL
Power meshMain
Lining
Power mesh
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Front & Cups
XXS – 4XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Cups G – M
Cups ONLY
OPTIONAL Power Bar
Plain OPTION (without cups)
Gathered OPTION (without cups)
ALL IN ONE Plain OPTION (with cups)
ALL IN ONE Gathered OPTION (with cups)
OPTIONAL Power mesh
Main
Lining
Power mesh
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Front & Cups
XXS – XL
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.75
XXL
0.5
0.5
0.5
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
3XL – 5XL
0.5
0.5
0.5
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.OPTIONAL Underwires – You will need underwire casing and underwires.
Underwire size chart
Cup
UK
USA
Length (in INCHES)
AA
1
30
6.1
A
2
32
6.7
B
3
34
7.3
C
4
36
8.0
D
5
38
8.5
E
6
40
9.1
F
7
42
9.7
G
8
44
11.0
H
9
46
11.6
I
10
48
12.3
J
11
50
13.0
K
12
52
13.7
L
13
54
14.4
M
14
56
15.1
You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, optional zipper foot, optional walking foot, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure or ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
AA Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – S 2 2-10, 14, 17 2-6, 14, 17 12-13 12-13 M – XL 2 2-10, 14-17 2-6, 14-15, 17 12-13 12-13 XXL 2 2-10, 14-17 2-7, 14-15, 17 12-13 12-13 3XL – 4XL 2 2-10, 12-17 2-7, 12-15, 17 12-13 12-13 5XL 2 2-17 2-15, 17 12-13 12-13 A Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – M 2 2-8, 10-13 2-8 13-14 13-14 L 2 2-13 2-9 13-14 13-14 XL 2 2-13, 19 2-9 13-14 13-14 XXL 2 2-13, 17-19 2-9 13-14 13-14 3XL 2 2-13, 17-19 2-9, 12, 15 13-14 13-14 4XL 2 2-13, 17-19 2-9, 11-12, 15-16 13-14 13-14 5XL 2 2-13, 17-19 2-9, 11-16 13-14 13-14 B Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – S 2 2-5, 7-16 2-5, 7-10, 14-16 14-15 14-15 M 2 2-5, 7-17 2-5, 7-10, 14-16 14-15 14-15 L – XL 2 2-5, 7-18, 20 2-5, 7-10, 14-16 14-15 14-15 XXL – 4XL 2 2-5, 7-20 2-5, 7-10, 14-17 14-15 14-15 5XL 2 2-20 2-5, 7-10, 14-17 14-15 14-15 C Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – L 2 2-13 2-8 13-14 13-14 XL – XXL 2 2-13, 17, 19 2-9 13-14 13-14 3XL 2 2-14, 17-19 2-9, 12 13-14 13-14 4XL – 5XL 2 2-14, 17-19 2-9, 11-16 13-14 13-14 D Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – S 15 2-12, 14 2-8, 14 12-13 12-13 M 15 2-12, 14-15 2-8, 14 12-13 12-13 L 15 2-12, 14-15, 17 2-8, 14 12-13 12-13 XL – XXL 15 2-12, 14-17 2-8, 14 12-13 12-13 3XL 15 2-12, 14-17 2-8, 10, 12,14 12-13 12-13 4XL 15 2-17 2-8, 10, 12-14 12-13 12-13 5XL 15 2-17 2-8, 10-14 12-13 12-13 E Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – S 14 2-13 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 M – L 14 2-13, 15 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 XL – XXL 14 2-13, 15-17 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 3XL 14 2-13, 15-17 2-8, 10, 12-13 15-16 15-16 4XL 14 2-17 2-8, 10, 12-14 15-16 15-16 5XL 14 2-17 2-8, 10-14 15-16 15-16 F Cup
Strap OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered Option Plain Front Option
Thin Option
Wide Option
XXS – M 17 2-13, 15 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 XL 17 2-13, 15, 17 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 XL 17 2-13, 15-17 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 XXL – 3XL 17 2-13, 15-17 2-8, 12-13 15-16 15-16 4XL 17 2-17 2-8, 10, 12-14 15-16 15-16 5XL 17 2-17 2-8, 10-14 15-16 15-16 G Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION
Thin Wide XXS – S 4 2-3, 5-7, 9-19 2-3, 5-7, 13-15, 21-22 16-17 16-17 M – L 4 2-3, 5-7, 9-20 2-3, 5-7, 12-15, 21-22 16-17 16-17 XL – XXL 4 2-3, 5-7, 9-20 2-3, 5-7, 12-15, 20-22 16-17 16-17 3XL – 5XL 4 2-3, 5-20 2-3, 5-8, 12-15, 20-22 16-17 16-17 H Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered OPTION Plain Front OPTION
Thin Wide XXS – L 16-17 2-5, 10-16, 18-22 2-8, 14-16 8-9 8-9 XL – XXL 16-17 2-5, 10-16, 18-22 2-8, 13-16 8-9 8-9 3XL 16-17 2-5, 10-16, 18-22 2-9, 11, 13-16 8-9 8-9 4XL – 5XL 16-17 2-5, 10-16, 18-22 2-9, 11-16 8-9 8-9 I Cup
Strap OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered Option Plain Front Option
Thin Option
Wide Option
XXS – S 14-15 2-5, 10-14, 16-17, 19-20 2-9, 16-17, 19-20 18-19 18-19 M 14-15 2-5, 10-14, 16-20 2-9, 16-20 18-19 18-19 L – 2XL 14-15 2-5, 10-14, 16-20 2-9, 14, 16-20 18-19 18-19 3XL – 4XL 14-15 2-5, 10-14, 16-20 2-9, 14-20 18-19 18-19 5XL 14-15 2-5, 10-14, 16-20 2-12, 14-20 18-19 18-19 J Cup
Strap OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered Option Plain Front Option
Thin Option
Wide Option
XXS – XS 2-3 3-8, 10-14 3-8, 19-22 17-18 17-18 XS 2-3 3-8, 10-14, 17 3-8, 19-22 17-18 17-18 S – XL 2-3 3-8, 10-14, 17 3-9, 15, 19-22 17-18 17-18 XXL 2-3 3-14, 17 3-9, 15, 19-22 17-18 17-18 3XL 2-3 3-14, 16-20 3-9, 13-16, 19-22 17-18 17-18 4XL – 5XL 2-3 3-20 3-9, 13-16, 19-22 17-18 17-18 K Cup
Strap OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered Option Plain Front Option
Thin Option
Wide Option
XXS – XS 2-3 3-8, 10-14 3-8, 13-15, 19-22 17-18 17-18 S – XL 2-3 3-8, 10-14, 17 3-8, 13-15, 19-22 17-18 17-18 XXL 2-3 3-14, 17 3-9, 13-16, 19-22 17-18 17-18 3XL 2-3 3-14, 17-20 3-9, 13-16, 19-22 17-18 17-18 4XL – 5XL 2-3 3-20 3-9, 13-16, 19-22 17-18 17-18 L Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered OPTION Plain Front OPTION
Thin Wide XXS – L 2-3 3-8, 10-14,17 3-8, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 XL 2-3 3-14, 17 3-9, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 XXL – 3XL 2-3 3-14, 17-20 3-9, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 4XL – 5XL 2-3 3-20 3-9, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 M Cup
Strap Option OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain Front OPTION
Thin Wide XXS – XL 2-3, 11 3-15, 18 3-10, 16, 20-23 18-19 18-19 XXL – 3XL 2-3, 11 3-15, 18-21 3-10, 14-16, 20-23 18-19 18-19 4XL – 5XL 2-3, 11 3-15, 18-21 3-10, 14-17, 20-23 18-19 18-19 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
AA Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – 3XL 2 2-10, 13-14, 15 2-7, 13-14, 15 11-12 11-12 4XL 2 2-10, 11, 13-14, 15 2-7, 11, 13-14, 15 11-12 11-12 5XL 2 2-15 2-7, 11-15 11-12 11-12 A Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – XS 2 2-8, 10-13 2-8 13-14 13-14 S – XXL 2 2-9, 10-13 2-9 13-14 13-14 3XL 2 2-9, 10-13, 19 2-9 13-14 13-14 4XL 2 2-13, 19 2-9, 12, 16 13-14 13-14 5XL 2 2-13, 17-19 2-9, 11-13, 15-16 13-14 13-14 B Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – XS 2 2-5, 7-16 2-5, 7-10, 14-16 14-15 14-15 S – L 2 2-5, 7-16 2-5, 7-10, 14-16 14-15 14-15 XL – XXL 2 2-5, 7-17 2-5, 7-10, 14-17 14-15 14-15 3XL 2 2-5, 7-18, 20 2-5, 7-10, 14-17 14-15 14-15 4XL 2 2-18, 20 2-11, 14-17 14-15 14-15 5XL 2 2-20 2-11, 14-17 14-15 14-15 C Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – XXL 9 2-13 2-9 16-17 16-17 3XL 9 2-14 2-9 16-17 16-17 4XL 9 2-14, 16, 18 2-9 16-17 16-17 5XL 9 2-14, 16-18 2-9, 12-15 16-17 16-17 D Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – XXL 13 2-13 2-8, 13 16-17 16-17 3XL 13 2-13, 16 2-8, 10, 13 16-17 16-17 4XL 13 2-13, 16 2-8, 13 16-17 16-17 5XL 13 2-17 2-8, 12-14 16-17 16-17 E Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain OPTION Thin Wide XXS – XL 14 2-13 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 XXL 14 2-13, 15 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 3XL 14 2-13, 15, 17 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 4XL 14 2-17 2-8, 10, 12-13 15-16 15-16 5XL 14 2-17 2-8, 10-14 15-16 15-16 F Cup
Strap OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered Option Plain Front Option
Thin Option
Wide Option
XXS – M 17 2-13 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 M – XL 17 2-13, 15 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 XXL 17 2-13, 15, 17 2-8, 13 15-16 15-16 3XL 17 2-13, 15-17 2-8, 12-13 15-16 15-16 4XL – 5XL 17 2-17 2-8, 10-14 15-16 15-16 G Cup
Strap OPTION OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain Front OPTION
Thin Wide XXS – S 4 2-3, 5-7, 9-21, 24 2-3, 5-7, 13-16, 24 17-18 17-18 M 4 2-3, 5-7, 9-21, 23- 24 2-3, 5-7, 13-16, 23-24 17-18 17-18 L 4 2-3, 5-24 2-3, 5-8, 12-16, 22-24 17-18 17-18 XL – 3XL 4 2-3, 5-24 2-3, 5-8, 12-16, 22-24 17-18 17-18 4XL – 5XL 4 2-3, 5-24 2-3, 5-8, 12-16, 22-24 17-18 17-18 H Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered OPTION Plain Front OPTION
Thin Wide XXS – XL 16-17 2-5, 10-16, 18-22 2-8, 14-16 8-9 8-9 XXL 16-17 2-5, 10-16, 18-22 2-8, 13-16 8-9 8-9 3XL – 4XL 16-17 2-5, 10-16, 18-22 2-9, 13-16 8-9 8-9 5XL 16-17 2-5, 10-16, 18-22 2-9, 11-16 8-9 8-9 I Cup
Strap OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered Option Plain Front Option
Thin Option
Wide Option
XXS – L 14-15 2-5, 10-14, 17-20 2-12 12-13 12-13 XL – 3XL 14-15 2-5, 10-14, 17-20 2-12, 14 12-13 12-13 4XL – 5XL 14-15 2-5, 10-14, 17-20 2-12, 14-16 12-14 12-14 J Cup
Strap OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered Option Plain Front Option
Thin Option
Wide Option
XXS – M 2-3 3-8, 10-14 3-8, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 L – XXL 2-3 3-14, 17 3-9, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 3XL 2-3 3-14, 17 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 4XL 2-3 3-14, 17-20 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 5XL 2-3 3-20 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 K Cup
Strap OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered Option Plain Front Option
Thin Option
Wide Option
XXS – M 2-3 3-8, 10-14 3-8, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 L – XXL 2-3 3-9, 10-14, 17 3-9, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 3XL 2-3 3-14, 17 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 4XL 2-3 3-14, 17-20 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 5XL 2-3 3-20 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 L Cup
Strap OPTIONS OPTIONAL Power Bra Gathered OPTION Plain Front OPTION
Thin Wide XXS 2-3 3-8, 10-14 3-8, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 XS – M 2-3 3-9, 10-14, 17 3-8, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 L – XXL 2-3 3-14, 17 3-9, 14-16, 20-23 17-18 17-18 3XL 2-3 3-14, 17-18 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 4XL 2-3 3-14, 17-20 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 5XL 2-3 3-20 3-9, 14-16, 19-23 17-18 17-18 M Cup
Strap OPTION OPTIONAL Power Bar Gathered OPTION Plain Front OPTION
Thin Wide XXS – M 2-3 3-15, 18 3-10, 17, 21-24 18-19 18-19 L – XXL 2-3 3-15, 18 3-10, 16-17, 21-24 18-19 18-19 3XL – 5XL 2-3 3-15, 18-21 3-10, 15-17, 21-24 18-19 18-19 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces and elastic lengths (in INCHES) are below:
Elastic widths:
Thin Strap OPTION
Wide Strap OPTION
Leg opening elastic
(Cut 2)Fabric (cut 2)
Elastic
(cut 2)Fabric
(cut 2)Elastic
(cut 2)Length
Width
Length
Length
Width
Length
Length
XXS
14.5
1.5
11.3
11.3
2.3
11.3
11.3
XS
15.6
1.5
11.7
11.7
2.3
11.7
11.7
S
17.0
1.5
12.2
12.2
2.3
12.2
12.2
M
18.2
1.5
12.5
12.5
2.3
12.5
12.5
L
19.4
1.5
13.0
13.0
2.3
13.0
13.0
XL
21.2
1.5
13.3
13.3
2.3
13.3
13.3
XXL
22.5
1.5
13.6
13.6
2.3
13.6
13.6
3XL
24.2
1.5
14.0
14.0
2.3
14.0
14.0
4XL
25.7
1.5
14.3
14.3
2.3
14.3
14.3
5XL
27.2
1.5
14.6
14.6
2.3
14.6
14.6
Cutting Checklist:
Cup sizes AA – F (Two Piece Cup)
Cup sizes G – M (Three Piece Cup)
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and labels.
- OPTIONAL POWER MESH – Baste power mesh to the wrong side of pieces.
- Cups AA-F – Right sides together, stitch Main Center Cup and Main Side Cup, press seam open. Now called Main Cup. Repeat for Lining. Now called Cup Lining. Repeat for Foam Cups. Trim seam allowance, zig zag stitch on the seam. Baste to Main Cup. Repeat for second cup.
- Cups G–M – Right sides together stitch Main Center Cup and Main Middle Cup along the cup seam. Stitch Main Side Cup to other cup seam. Press seam open. Now called Main Cup. Repeat for Lining. Now called Cup Lining. Repeat for Foam Cups. Trim seam allowance of Foam Cups, zig zag stitch on the seam. Baste to Main Cup. Repeat for second cup.
- OPTIONAL POWER BAR – Fold Power Bar in half matching raw edges. Line up Power Bar inside the Cup Lining and baste raw edges. Repeat for second cup.
- STRAPS – TURNING METHOD: Fold Strap in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch long edge. Turn Strap right side out and press. OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Insert elastic. Repeat for second Strap. DOUBLE FOLD METHOD: OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Place elastic onto wrong side of Strap, matching long edges. Stitch into seam allowance. Use double fold bias method to create Strap. Topstitch open long edge. Repeat for second Strap. Lay Main Cup right side facing up. THIN STRAP: Place Strap ⅜ inch down from the apex. WIDE STRAP: Place Strap with the corners matching to outer edges of Main cup below the apex, and ⅜ inch on either edge of the Strap. Baste. Repeat for other Cup and Strap.
- FINISHING CUPS – Cut elastic the length of bust edge. Stitch elastic to right side of Main Cup. Repeat for underarm elastic. Stitch Main Cup to Cup Lining right sides together along top edge. Trim the corner. Understitch seam allowance around entire Bust edge and underarm seam. Turn right side out. Baste Cup Lining and Main Cup wrong sides together at cradle edge. Repeat for the other Cup.
- FRONT AND BACK – GATHERED FRONT OPTION: Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the pattern markings on either side of Main Front. Gently gather Main Front to fit Front Lining. Cut elastic to length of bridge. Stitch it onto bridge wrong side of Lining, into seam allowance. Place Main Front and Front Lining pieces right sides together at bridge. Stitch just above elastic. Turn wrong sides together, matching side seams. Pin. OPTIONAL Baste side seams. Lay Back Lining right side facing out. Place Front on top, right side of Front Lining to right side of Back Lining. Place Main Back right sides together with Main Front. Stitch side seams. Turn Linings right side out. Baste Lining and Main along cradle edge. Stitch elastic onto top edge of Back Lining. Turn right side out. Fold back top raw edge over and topstitch.
- BOTTOM SEAM – Turn wrong side out. With Back Lining facing up, flip Lining out of the way. Stitch Main Front and Main Back right sides together at the bottom seam. Turn inside out. Move Main Front and Back inside. Stitch Front and Back Lining right sides together at bottom seam. Turn right side out.
- LEG ELASTIC – Stitch elastic into circle, overlapping by ½ inch. Baste Main and Lining together at leg opening. Mark quarter points on leg opening and elastic. Stitch elastic onto Lining, matching quarter points and raw edges. Turn right side out. Fold leg opening and elastic over, topstitch. Repeat for second leg opening.
- ATTACHING CUPS – Pin Cup to pattern markings at cradle edge. Continue pinning between these two points, easing the Cup along the curve. Stitch. Trim seam allowance. Repeat to attach other Cup to the second cradle edge.
- OPTIONAL UNDERWIRE – Cut a piece of casing the same length as the Cup cradle. On wrong side, with seam allowance pushed down towards the bodice, pin the casing directly over the seam on the cradle edge of the Cup. Topstitch directly over previous stitching on both sides of casing. Repeat to attach casing on the other Cup. Stitch from one side straight across the top of the casing on both Cups. Insert underwires into both casings. Stitch across end of the casing.
- FINISHING – Stitch both Straps onto Back at pattern markings. Fold each Strap up over the stitched seam. Stitch ⅛ inch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Topstitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0It can be tricky to get the right fit for your cups, especially as we are all different shapes and sizes. We have listed a few common issues and suggested adjustments to help fix these in order to help you get the best fit for your swimsuit.
1 . Petite Armscye1.1Remove height at the strap placement on the Outer Cup, easing into the seam allowance.
2 . Gaping under the Arm2.1Make a small cut in the Outer Cup piece. Overlap by the amount needed. Tape down and trace over the new piece, smoothing the curve. These will be your new Outer Cup pattern piece.
3 . Adjusting Bridge Width3.0If you find you need to adjust the bridge width (spacing between the breasts) of the Front, here are a few adjustment options:
3.1DECREASE – Using your Front pattern piece, move the fold line in towards the cradle by the amount you need to decrease the bridge width by. This will be your new Front pattern piece.
Another option would be to move the seam allowances inward at the center of the Front when stitching the Cups. Check that this is even on both sides.
3.2INCREASE – Using your Front pattern piece, move the fold line out by half the amount you need to increase the bridge width by. This will be your new Front pattern piece.
NOTE – Only add half the amount the bridge width needs to increase as the Front is cut on the fold.
4 . Adjusting Cup Volume4.1If you find the Cup fits quite well, but there is a little extra space or you need just a bit more volume, you can add or remove volume along your seam lines.
REMOVE – To remove some volume from the cup, ease a deeper seam allowance when stitching, along the seams where you need less volume e.g. apex, upper cup etc.
ADD – To add more volume into the cup ease a shallower seam allowance when stitching, where it is needed.
NOTE – Make sure to be even on both sides of the seam.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and labels to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . OPTIONAL Power Mesh1.0If you would like to add power mesh for additional support to the Front Lining, follow below. If you are not adding an optional Power Mesh, skip to step 2 for cups AA – F, or to step 3 for cups G – M.
1.1Place the Front Lining piece onto the Front Lining Power Mesh piece, wrong sides together. Pin along all outer edges.
NOTE – You can add power mesh to your main or lining pieces, or both. You can add to the Front, Back and Cups.
NOTE – The piece in the image is a slightly different shape than the Front piece, however the steps are the same.
1.2Baste the two pieces together, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Treat them as one piece.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 on all pieces you are adding power mesh to.
2 . Cups AA - F (Two Piece)2.0If you are sewing cup sizes G-M, skip to step 3. If you are sewing cup sizes AA-F, follow below.
2.1With the right sides together, pin the Main Center Cup to the Main Side Cup, along the cup seam with the cradle at the bottom and the bust edge at the top. Pin in the middle and at either end first, then ease along the curve and pin together.
NOTE – Ease the Main Cup pieces in at the ⅜ inch seam allowance, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means that where you sew the fabric will.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Main Cup.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Cup. This will ensure you do not attach the Cup the wrong way around to the Front.
2.3Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the outer edge.
2.4Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the other Main Cup.
2.5Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 to stitch both Center Cup Lining and Side Cup Lining together.
NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Cup Lining.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Foam Cups, follow below. If you are not adding OPTIONAL Foam Cups, skip to step 4 for the OPTIONAL Power Bar, or to step 5 for the Straps.
2.6OPTIONAL FOAM CUPS: Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 to stitch the Foam Center Cup and Foam Side Cup pieces together.
NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Foam Cup.
2.7Trim the seam allowance to prevent bulk.
2.8Flatten the seam allowance to one side and stitch directly over the seam allowance using a zig zag stitch.
Repeat steps 2.7 to 2.8 to trim the seam allowance and stitch the seam allowance with a zig zag stitch on the other Cup.
NOTE – This seam will be on the inside of the swimsuit. By stitching the seam down, it will help smooth out the Cup.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Foam Cup. This will ensure you do not attach the Foam Cup the wrong way around to the Front.
2.9Baste the Foam Cup to each Main Cup, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
Repeat steps 2.6 to 2.9 for the other Foam Cup.
Skip to step 4 to add an OPTIONAL Power Bar, or to step 5 for the Straps.
3 . Cups G - M (Three Piece)3.1With the right sides together, pin the Main Center Cup to the Main Middle Cup, along the cup seam, matching pattern markings. Pin in the middle and at either end first, then ease along the curve and pin together.
NOTE – Ease the Main Cup pieces in at the ⅜ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means that where you sew the fabric will.
NOTE – The Middle Cup has a cup seam on either side. Lay your pieces together matching the grainline direction, bust edges and cradle edges. This will ensure you are attaching the correct sides together.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
3.3Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the outer edge.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 to stitch the Main Side Cup to the other cup seam of the Main Middle Cup.
NOTE – These three pieces will now be referred to as the Main Cup.
3.5Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 for the other Main Cup.
NOTE – The pictures in the rest of the tutorial show a two-piece cup, however the steps are all the same for the three-piece cup.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Cup. This will ensure you do not attach the Cup the wrong way around to the Front.
3.6Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 to stitch each Cup Lining together.
NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Cup Lining.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Foam Cups, follow below. If you are not adding OPTIONAL Foam Cups, skip to step 4 for the OPTIONAL Power Bar, or to step 5 for the Straps.
3.7OPTIONAL FOAM CUPS: Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 to stitch the Foam Center Cup, Foam Middle Cup and Foam Side Cup together along the cup seams.
NOTE – These three pieces will now be referred to as the Foam Cup.
3.8Trim each seam allowance to prevent bulk.
3.9Flatten each seam allowance open and stitch directly over the seam allowance using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – This picture shows a 2-piece cup (smaller sizes), but the method is the same for 3-piece cups.
NOTE – This seam will be on the inside of the swimsuit. By stitching the seam down, it will help smooth out the Cup.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Cup Lining. This will ensure you do not attach the Cup Lining the wrong way around to the Front.
3.10Baste the Foam Cup to the wrong side of the Main Cup, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Cup.
Repeat steps 3.6 to 3.8 for the other Cup.
If you are adding an OPTIONAL Power Bar, follow below. If you are not adding an OPTIONAL Power Bar, skip to step 5 for the Straps.
4 . OPTIONAL Power Bar4.0If you are not adding a Power Bar skip to step 5. If you are adding a Power Bar, follow below. This step is the same for a two piece or three piece Cup.
4.1You will be adding the Power Bar to the Cup Lining pieces.
Fold the Power Bar in half, wrong sides together, matching the raw edges.
Pin.NOTE – The underarm and cradle should be folded over to match the opposite underarm and cradle edges.
4.2Align the Power Bar to the right side of the Cup Lining, matching the underarm and cradle edges. Pin.
4.3Baste the two pieces together, using a ¼ inch seam allowance along the underarm and cradle edges.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the other Cup Lining.
5 . Straps5.0The construction is the same for either width Strap. If you would like to sew the Straps and turn them out, start at step 5.1. If you find the turning method difficult, you can fold it like double fold bias tape. Skip to step 5.5 for this method.
5.1TURNING METHOD: Fold the Strap in half lengthwise right sides together, pinning the long edge.
5.2Serge or stitch the pinned edge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
TIP – Leave a 2-3 inch long thread tail to help turning it out.
5.3Turn the Strap right side out and press with the seam in the center of the Strap.
TIPS FOR TURNING:
Method A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric in on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
Method B – Use a blunt object like a chopstick.
Insert the chopstick inside the Strap and fold the Strap over it. Pull the Strap out pushing it slightly with the chopstick.
5.4OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Pin a safety pin at one end of the elastic. Insert the elastic into the Strap, using the safety pin to maneuver the elastic through the other side.
TIP – Before using your elastic, exercise it first by pre stretching the elastic a few times before using it. Steaming it can also help prepare it for use and help maintain its shape.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 with the second Strap. Then, skip to step 5.9.
5.5DOUBLE FOLD METHOD:
OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Strap, matching long edges. Pin.
Starting at one end, with a stretch stitch, stitch the elastic into the seam allowance. Hold the elastic taut, but do not stretch while sewing.
TIP – If attaching elastic with a serger, be sure to disengage the knife.
TIP – Before using your elastic, exercise it first by pre stretching the elastic a few times before using it. Steaming it can also help prepare it for use and help maintain its shape.
If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, please use this. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here.
Fold the Strap in half lengthwise and mark the center.
TIP – Press the center of the Strap. Place a damp cloth over the Strap and then press. Be careful as swimsuit fabric can burn easily.
5.6Open the Strap, then fold the two long sides into the middle.
5.7Refold the Strap along the first middle fold, folding the raw edges to the inside. Pin.
5.8Topstitch the open long edge using a ⅛ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Repeat steps 5.5 to 5.8 for the second Strap.
If sewing a Thin Strap, follow below. If sewing a Wide Strap, skip to step 5.12.
5.9THIN STRAP: Lay the Main Cup right side facing up.
Place the Thin Strap ⅜ inch down from the apex. Check that you have ⅜ inch on either side of the Strap. Pin.
5.10Baste using a ⅜ inch seam allowance from the top of the Thin Strap.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
5.11Repeat steps 5.9 to 5.10 for the other Cup and Thin Strap.
Skip to step 6.
5.12WIDE STRAP: Lay the Main Cup right side facing up.
Place the Wide Strap matching the corners of the Strap to the outer edges of the Main Cup. Check that you have ⅜ inch on either side of the Strap. Pin.
5.13Baste using a ⅜ inch seam allowance from the top of the Wide Strap.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
Repeat steps 5.12 to 5.13 for the other Cup and Strap.
6 . Finishing Cups6.0This step is the same for all cup sizes.
6.1Cut a piece of elastic the length of the bust edge of the cup.
Pin the elastic to the wrong side of the bust edge on the Main Cup, matching the edge of the elastic to the raw edge of the fabric.
NOTE – If you have added a Foam Cup, you will attach the elastic to the Foam Cup. We are showing the Main Cup in the photos, but the steps are the same.
TIP – It can be easy to stretch the elastic when sewing it to the bust edge. To help avoid stretching it, stitch slowly and use a walking foot.
TIP – Before using your elastic, exercise it first by pre stretching the elastic a few times before using it. Steaming it can also help prepare it for use and help maintain its shape.
6.2Stitch the elastic using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
6.3Cut another piece of elastic the length of the underarm seam. Pin.
6.4Stitch the elastic using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
6.5With right sides together, pin the Main Cup to the Cup Lining along the top edge.
TIP – Pin the length of the Strap onto the Main Cup, keeping it out of the way when stitching.
6.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Follow the bust edge until you meet the Strap stitching, then stitch straight across your basting stitched to the underarm edge, then stitch the rest of the underarm edge.
6.7Trim the corner at the apex to reduce bulk.
6.8Open the Main and Lining. Understitch the seam allowance and elastic to the Lining.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the lining and outer bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice.
6.9Turn the Cup right side out. Place the Cup Lining and Main Cup wrong sides together along the cradle edge. Pin.
6.10Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Cup piece.
6.11Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.10 for the other Cup.
7 . Front and Back7.0If you are sewing a plain front OPTION, skip to step 7.3. For the gathered front OPTION, follow below.
7.1GATHERED FRONT OPTION: Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the pattern markings on either side of the Main Front.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ⅛ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. top to bottom). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
7.2Lay the Front Lining piece down.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Main Front.
Gather all the way across until the Main Front is the same length as the Front Lining on both sides.
Gently spread out the Main Front so that it is evenly gathered.
7.3Lay the Front Lining wrong side up. Cut a piece of elastic the same length as the bridge. Place it onto the bridge, matching edges. Pin.
7.4Using a stretch stitch, stitch the elastic into the seam allowance. Hold the elastic taut, but not stretched while sewing.
TIP – If you prefer to attach elastic with a serger, turn off the knife before starting.
7.5Place the Main Front and the Front Lining pieces right sides together at the bridge. Pin.
7.6Serge or stitch the bridge just above the elastic.
7.7Turn right sides out, then fold the Lining down and place wrong sides together to match the side seams. Pin.
OPTIONAL – Baste the side seams using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The images show a plain Front option, however the steps are the same for both options.
7.8Layer the pieces in the following order: Back Lining right side up, Front Lining right side down, Main Front right side up, Main Back right side down. Pin along the side seams.
NOTE – The Front will be sandwiched in between the Main Back and Lining.
7.9Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Press.
7.10Turn the Linings right side out. The right side of the Main is inside, and the right side of the Lining is on the outside.
Pin the Lining and Main together along the top cradle edge.
7.11Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.12Measure the top back edge from cup edge to cup edge. Take off 2 inches and cut your elastic to this length. Pin the elastic onto the Back Lining, starting from the cup, going all along the back to the other cup, stretching it across the edge. Match the edge of the elastic to the raw edge.
7.13Zigzag stitch the elastic.
7.14Turn the garment right side out. Fold the back top raw edge over to the wrong side by the width of the elastic. Pin.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
7.15Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, using a stretch stitch.
NOTE – Topstitching close to the inside edge of the elastic helps prevent the elastic from flipping to the right side.
8 . Bottom Seam8.1Turn the swimsuit wrong side out. With the Back Lining facing up, flip the Lining out of the way.
Place the Main Front and Main Back right sides together at the bottom seam.
8.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
8.3Turn the swimsuit inside out. Move the Main Front and Back inside.
Place the Front and Back Lining right sides together at the bottom seam.
8.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
8.5Turn the swimsuit right side out.
9 . Leg Elastic9.1Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each. Pin.
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.
9.2Baste the Main and Lining together at the leg opening, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
9.3Mark the quarter points of the elastic and leg opening.
Place the elastic onto the Lining, matching quarter points and raw edges. Pin.
TIP – To ensure the elastic is stretched evenly around the opening, mark the quarter points of the elastic and the leg opening, then match these up.
NOTE – Place the bulky elastic join near the side seam, so it does not rub or bother more sensitive areas.
9.4Stitch the elastic using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2mm is recommended.
9.5Fold the leg opening and elastic over to the inside by the width of the elastic. Pin.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
9.6Topstitch close to the edge of the elastic using a stretch stitch.
NOTE – Topstitching close to the inside edge of the elastic helps prevent the elastic from flipping to the right side.
9.7Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.6 for the second leg opening.
10 . Attaching Cups10.1You will be attaching the Cup to the Main Front along the cradle edge.
Pin the Cup to the pattern markings on the middle of the Front. Continue pinning between these two points, easing the Cup along the curve.
NOTE – Ease the Cup pieces in at the ⅜ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means that where you sew the fabric will.
10.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If serging, baste the Cup to the Front at the cradle edge first.
10.3Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
10.4Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 to attach the other Cup to the second cradle edge.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Underwire, follow below. If you are not adding it, skip to step 12.
11 . OPTIONAL Underwire11.1You will need to attach casings to insert the underwire into. Cut a piece of casing the same length as the Cup cradle.
On the wrong side of the swimsuit, with the seam allowance pushed down towards the bodice, pin the casing directly over the seam on the cradle edge of the Cup.
TIP – Trim the corners at the ends of the cradle to reduce bulk, as there are quite a few layers at this point.
11.2Topstitch the casing by stitching directly over the existing stitching on both sides of the casing.
TIP – Use a zipper foot to help get close to the edges.
11.3Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.2 to attach the casing on the other Cup.
11.4Stitch from one side straight across the top of the casing on both Cups, using a narrow zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A narrow zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
NOTE – Leave the other end of the casings open for inserting the underwires.
11.5Insert the underwire into the casing under the Cup.
NOTE – The underwire will sit flush with the center front and finish approximately ½ inch shorter at the underarm point.
11.6Stitch along the end of the casing using a narrow zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A narrow zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
Repeat steps 11.5 to 11.6 for the other side of the swimsuit.
12 . Finishing12.1Place both Straps onto the Back at the pattern markings, matching the raw edge of the Strap to the top edge. Pin.
NOTE – Check the Straps aren’t twisted.
FIT CHECK – Try on the swimsuit and adjust the Straps if needed. Remember to keep a ⅜ seam allowance.
12.2Stitch both Straps using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – To secure the Straps, stitch times back and forth two to three times.
12.3Fold each Strap up over the stitched seam. Pin.
12.4Stitch ⅛ inch from the top edge of the Back.
Your Classic Swimsuit is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Classic Swimsuit is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpclassicswimsuit.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Makers Gallery
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewClassic Swimsuit
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
This fully lined bra cup shaped swimsuit has a regular cut leg, with a plain or gathered front. Add optional power mesh for additional support. You can also add foam cups, underwires and a power bar to the cups for extra support. It has a straight back with straight straps – choose between thin or wide straps with optional elastic.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
Measuring Your Cup Size
You will need to determine your cup size (full bust – blue line). We recommend measuring wearing an underwired supportive bra without padding.
The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. Cup sizes range from AA – M. Please see the chart below (in INCHES) on how to calculate your cup size.
Cup size
Difference from underbust
Cup size
Difference from underbust
AA
0.5
G
7.0
A
1.0
H
8.0
B
2.0
I
9.0
C
3.0
J
10.0
D
4.0
K
11.0
E
5.0
L
12.0
F
6.0
M
13.0
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Cups A – F
Under
bustWaist
Hips
Center front length
Center back length
XXS
23.5
21.1
26.5
20.0
17.5
XS
25.0
23.0
28.0
20.3
18.0
S
26.5
23.6
29.5
20.6
18.3
M
28.0
25.3
31.0
21.2
19.0
L
29.6
24.0
32.6
22.0
19.5
XL
32.0
29.5
35.0
22.5
20.0
XXL
34.0
32.5
37.3
23.2
20.5
3XL
36.3
35.5
39.6
24.2
21.7
4XL
38.6
39.0
42.0
25.0
22.3
5XL
41.0
42.1
44.2
26.0
23.5
Cups G – M
Under
bustWaist
Hips
Center front length
Center back length
XXS
26.2
22.0
26.5
21.0
18.1
XS
28.0
23.5
28.0
21.2
18.6
S
29.6
24.5
29.6
21.6
19.1
M
31.3
26.5
31.1
22.0
19.5
L
33.0
28.0
32.7
22.6
20.0
XL
35.5
30.6
35.0
23.2
20.6
XXL
38.0
33.3
37.4
24.0
21.1
3XL
40.6
36.7
39.7
25.0
22.6
4XL
43.2
40.3
42.0
25.7
23.0
5XL
45.7
43.7
44.4
26.7
24.0
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 40-50% stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swimsuit fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swimsuit fabric instead of a swimsuit lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
OPTIONAL Power mesh – For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to the Front, Back and Cup pieces. You can add this to just the Main or Lining, or to both. You can also add a “power bar” as a support panel which runs down the side of the Cup. This will lift and support the bust.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Cups AA-F
Cups ONLY
OPTIONAL Power Bar
Plain OPTION (without cups)
Gathered OPTION (without cups)
ALL IN ONE Plain OPTION (with cups)
ALL IN ONE Gathered OPTION
(with cups)OPTIONAL
Power meshMain
Lining
Power mesh
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Front & Cups
XXS – 4XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Cups G – M
Cups ONLY
OPTIONAL Power Bar
Plain OPTION (without cups)
Gathered OPTION (without cups)
ALL IN ONE Plain OPTION (with cups)
ALL IN ONE Gathered OPTION (with cups)
OPTIONAL Power mesh
Main
Lining
Power mesh
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
Front & Cups
XXS – XL
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.75
XXL
0.5
0.5
0.5
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
3XL – 5XL
0.5
0.5
0.5
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.OPTIONAL Underwires – You will need underwire casing and underwires.
- Underwire Casing – This is used as an enclosure for the underwires, while stabilizing the cup to frame seam. We suggest a plush underwire casing as it is softer against the body, as well as strong and durable. Approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Underwires – Underwires support the breasts by spreading out the stress of breast support from the cups into the Front. By using them you will get the best lift and support possible from your swimsuit. Underwires are most commonly made of metal and come in a variety of diameters and lengths. We recommend using fully coated steel flat wires. You will need 1x pair Full Cup Underwire – see chart below for sizing. Please note this is a suggested length/size. Please adjust according to your personal shape and fit.
Underwire size chart
Cup
UK
USA
Length (in INCHES)
AA
1
30
6.1
A
2
32
6.7
B
3
34
7.3
C
4
36
8.0
D
5
38
8.5
E
6
40
9.1
F
7
42
9.7
G
8
44
11.0
H
9
46
11.6
I
10
48
12.3
J
11
50
13.0
K
12
52
13.7
L
13
54
14.4
M
14
56
15.1
You will also need:
- OPTIONAL Pre-finished foam padding: Cut and sew foam/bra foam/polylaminate foam padding/sheet foam – approximately ¼ yard. Adding foam padding into the swimsuit cups will add more coverage, structure, and support. Foam padding is a layer of foam which is laminated with fabric on both sides. It is available in different thicknesses, qualities, and fabric lamination.
- ⅜ inch Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes. NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when its exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, and salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- OPTIONAL Strap elastic – Cotton swimwear elastic approximately 1.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thin Strap OPTION: ⅜ inch wide
- Wide Strap OPTION: ¾ inch wide
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, optional zipper foot, optional walking foot, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure or ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
