Dolls’ Kingston Jacket

NOTE – The instructions and steps are the same for the ladies, child’s, and dolls versions. You will note the photos in the tutorial are mostly of the child’s pattern pieces. The dolls and ladies pattern pieces are the same but are different shapes for the different body types.

If you want to do the front pocket, follow below. If not, skip to step 3.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge all 5 straight sides of each pocket, without taking anything off. Then skip to step 2.2. Follow along with the rest of step 2 but skip step 2.6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

Turn the top edge of each front pocket under ¼ inch and press.

Turn the edge under again another ¾ inch and press again.

Turnover and top stitch close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛ inch from the edge).

You will need to stitch from the right side of the pocket if you are using top stitch thread so that your decorative thread shows (rather than your bobbin thread).

Top stitch again, but close to the edge that’s folded underneath to hold it in place. 

Again, you will need to stitch from the right side of the pocket if you are using top stitch thread so that your decorative thread shows (rather than your bobbin thread).

Your stitching should be approximately ½ inch from the edge of the pocket (just close enough to catch the folded edge underneath and also look like it’s a similar distance to the other top stitching we did in step 1.

Measure 1 inch down from the top of one of your Front Middle pieces and mark with a pin horizontally.

Pin one of your pockets to your front. 

The top of the pocket should align with your pin you placed in step 2.7 (1 inch below the raw edge).

The pocket should be centered over the Front Middle piece.

For the smaller sizes, the pocket will align with the seams between the side front and side middle. If the size you are doing does this, take a moment to make sure it lines up neatly. Adjust your pressed seam allowances if needed.

For the larger sizes, the pocket won’t align with these seams as in the photo. This is deliberate and gives the front balance on these sizes. If this is the size you are doing, line the pocket up so it is centered over the Front Middle piece and goes an even distance over the piece on the left & right of it.

We are going to sew two rows of top stitching around the pocket to secure it now and include a little cross at the top of each pocket for strength.

To do this, stitch a small diagonal from the bottom row of top stitching (starting in line with the inside row of stitching from the Front Middle piece above the pocket). Then stitch down, around, and back up the pocket. Repeat the little diagonal on the other side. This stitching should be close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛ inch).

Now repeat but with the diagonal going in the other direction and your stitching approximately ½ inch from the edge.

Repeat steps 2.7 to 2.10 to attach the other front pocket to the other front piece.

Turn right side out and press. 

Make sure to poke the corners out fully before pressing. Use a point turner, or blunt object like a chopstick or knitting needle to do this.

Topstitch around each Pocket Flap, approximately ⅛ inch from the edge. 

Topstitch around each Pocket Flap again, this time approximately ½ inch from the edge.

Leave the top open again. Put both Pocket Flaps aside. We will use them in step 3.8.

If you are doing buttons & buttonholes, stitch your buttonhole as marked on each Pocket Flap now. You can wait to the end if you prefer, but it can be tricky to do this around the bulk of the rest of the jacket. If you are doing snaps, skip to step 3.5.

With wrong sides together, stitch the Front Yoke to the matching front piece. Stitch with the Front Yoke on top.

NOTE – There is a left and right Front Yoke. You need to match the correct one to your correct front. The outer edge of each piece curves with the armhole at the top. The inside edge of the front will be the front buttonhole Placket, which is straight up and down, and the inside edge of the Front Yoke curves at the top for the neckline opening. If you are unsure, check against your pattern pieces and lay the fabric out flat to see how they line up.

Trim the top of one of your Pocket Flaps by ⅜ inch. 

Turn the Placket through and press. Make sure to poke the corners through gently with a blunt pointed object before pressing.

Top stitch ⅛ inch from the edge down the side of the Placket. 

Follow the line of the raw edge, then along the fold, then down the front.

NOTE – When we attach the Collar, the raw edge you’ve just stitched down will disappear up into the Collar so technically you don’t need to stitch all the way down this bit. However, stitching it means your stitching will disappear up nicely up into the Collar vs stopping just below it.

Top stitch ⅞ inch from the folded edge all the way down in a straight line. This should be very close to the fold underneath and just catch it to hold the Placket closed.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 with the other front piece to create an identical Placket.

The Collar has OPTIONAL embroidery on the Collar Lining (the bit of the Collar underneath that gets hidden when you fold the Collar while wearing it). It’s perfect for a little bit of detail and a sneak peak of something special as the wearer moves around. If you want to add this, start this step from 7.1. If not, skip to step 7.3.

NOTE – The top of the Collar is wider than the bottom. Make sure you attach the Collar right way up. Hold your Collar pattern piece right way up so you can read the writing. As you are holding the pattern piece right now is how the Collar goes. The top of the Collar is the wider bit at the top of the pattern piece, the narrower bit at the bottom is the section that attaches to the jacket. 

The Collar Lining (underside of the finished Collar) is a great place to add some creativity. You could embroider by hand, by machine or even just with regular sewing machine stitches. Alternatively, you could do freehand embroidery, stitch art or even applique. 

If you are experienced with embroidery and/or already have an idea for a design, stitch your design, cut the Collar Lining piece out and then skip to step 7.3.

If not, here a simple design you could do is horizontal stitching lines along the Collar, with an OPTIONAL embroidered name or word in the middle.

To do this, either by embroidery sewing machine or by hand stitching your name on your lining fabric. Before you start, make sure your stitching has enough room around it for you to center your Collar Lining piece over it.

Press your fabric to make sure any creases from holding your fabric or putting it on a hoop are gone, and around your stitching to make sure it is flat as well.

Center your Collar pattern piece over your design. Make sure it is both horizontally and vertically centered.

Trace with tailor’s chalk and cut out.

If you wish to stitch lines along the rest of the Collar, use tailors chalk and a ruler to draw a line either side of your design.

Stitch along this first line.

Use your presser foot as a guide to then stitch however many extra lines you’d like. Using the edge of your presser foot, or some of the lines on it, helps keep your stitching beautifully parallel and straight.

Fold the bottom edge of the Collar piece only (not the Collar Lining) under by ⅝ inch and press.

Turn the Collar right side out. Make sure to poke the corners through fully. Press well. Do not top stitch yet.

Fold both the Collar and the jacket in half to find the center points. Mark each with a pin.

Matching the center points, pin the Collar with the non-folded lining side down onto the right side of the jacket.

OPTIONAL Hanging Loop – It’s handy to have a little loop here to hang your garment on hooks with. If you wish to add one, we are now going to fold your Hanging Loop like double fold bias tape, and top stitch it closed. If you don’t wish to do this, skip to step 7.13.

Fold your Hanging Loop wrong sides together in half along its length. Press.

Open the loop up again. Fold the raw edges in to meet up at the center fold line you just created. Press.

Fold in half again down the original fold line. Press.

The raw edges should now be neatly tucked inside, and the loop should be ¼ of its original width, but the same length.

Top stitch down the center to hold in place.

Fold the jacket in half to find the center back. Measure ½ inch either side of the center point and pin each end of the Hanging Loop. Make sure to match the raw ends so that the Hanging Loop is attached by the full seam allowance.

Stitch in place just inside the seam allowance.

If you are doing the Long Sleeve option, follow along below.

For the Bell Sleeve, Trumpet Sleeve or Half Angel Sleeve, skip to step 9.

We will now stitch all the sections, so it looks like a continuous flat fell seam when the sleeve slit is closed, but it isn’t.

Stitch the sleeve slit section on the lower sleeve. Stitch close to the folded edge, but stitch with the lower sleeve on top so your top stitching thread shows if you are using it. Stop at the 2.5 inch marking at the top of the sleeve slit.

Stitch close to the folded edge on the Upper Sleeve part of the sleeve slit. Your stitching should catch the tiny, folded section we created in step 8.8 but also be in line with where you would usually stitch the folded edge of a flat fell seam.

Make sure to keep the lower sleeve section completely out of the way when stitching. You only want to catch the Upper Sleeve part. Double check this before sewing.

Again, with the lower sleeve section completely out of the way (see the second photo on the left), continue the stitch line from 8.1 down to the hem.

Stitch close to the folded edge along the flat fell section of the seam (stopping at the top of the sleeve slit 2.5 inches from the hem).

Stitch at bar tack at the top of the sleeve slit. This is to hold the sleeve slit in place, create strength, and hide anywhere your stitching joins at the top of the sleeve slit.

If you haven’t done a bar tack before, it is a section of stitching which goes back and forwards over itself to create a little line. You can do this by hand or by machine. Some machines will have this as a stitch type you can select. If you do not have this option, you can either try your zigzag stitch, or do several small stitches in a row back and forwards. To use your zigzag stitch set it so it is as wide as the two lines of top stitching, but with no length. The stitching will go side to side on top of itself and not move forward. Repeat this a few times and then stop.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.12 with the other sleeve. 

NOTE – We will attach the Cuff and finish the hemline later, after we have attached the sleeve to the jacket.

Select one sleeve to work with first, and check which is the front and which is the back of the sleeve. Then with right sides up, lay the sleeve next to your jacket to work out which side of the jacket the sleeve goes on. All sleeve types have the front and back of the sleeve marked on the pattern piece. For the Long, Bell or Trumpet sleeve, the Lower Sleeve piece goes at the back.

Fold the jacket and one sleeve in half to find the center points. Mark with a pin.

Place your sleeve right sides together onto your jacket, matching the center points. 

NOTE – As the shoulder seam is rotated forwards on to the front of the jacket as you are wearing it, the center of the sleeve will not match up with this. Use the pins you placed in step 9.1 to match the center points, not the seams. 

Stitch close to the fold to secure. 

If you are using top stitching thread, you will need to do this from the right side of the garment. Take note how far away the center of your presser foot needs to be from the seam for you to be stitching close to the fold, but not so close that you risk missing it. The goal is to catch the fold all the way along the seam, while giving a nice top stitched effect around the armhole and giving strength to the armhole with the extra line of stitching the top stitching creates.

If you are using regular thread, you can stitch from the inside of the garment. Just take care to keep a consistent distance from the armhole seam so that your stitching looks neat from the right side of the garment.

Press.

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.8 for the other armhole and sleeve.

Open the pocket out and press.

Flip the pocket all the way over so it is right sides together with the front. Press.

The edges of the front will curl around at the top and bottom of the pocket. This is correct.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 to attach a pocket piece to the other front, and the left and right sides of the back. 

You should now have 4 pocket pieces attached.

If your fabric is light to medium weight, we are going to do a side seam pocket with French seam finishing. To do this follow the steps below. Alternatively, if you are using heavy weight fabric skip to step 10.9 for an alternative finish.

With wrong sides facing, pin your front and back together down the arm, side seam, around the pocket and down to the hem.

If you are not using a serger and your fabric is heavy weight (e.g. 12 to 14 oz. denim), the previous steps will be too bulky with your fabric weight. Instead, follow the steps below.  

If you are doing the Long Sleeve, start at step 11.1 and follow along.

For the Bell Sleeve or Trumpet Sleeve, skip to step 11.19.

For the Half Angel Sleeves, skip to step 12. You do not need to do anything with your sleeve now except to hem it.

For the Long Sleeves, take one pair of cuff pieces. 

Fold the seam allowance of 1x cuff piece under by ⅝ inch and press. 

NOTE – If you are using different fabric for your cuff lining, this piece is going to be the piece of the cuff on the inside of the garment.

Pin the Cuff closed and top stitch around approximately ⅛ inch from the edge. All the raw edges should now be enclosed.

Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.7 with the other Cuff and sleeve. You will need to mark your notch on the opposite side of the Cuff in step 11.2 so that you now have a left and a right Cuff, otherwise it will not attach to your remaining sleeve.

For the Long Sleeve skip to step 13 (you do not need to do step 12).

For the Bell or Trumpet Sleeves, continue below.

BELL SLEEVES – We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top of the bell. 

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo). Start stitching again just after the side seam, and stitch around to the next seam. 

You should now have two rows of gathering stitches all the way around your bell, each of which starts and finishes either side of the side seam.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads I find I have!

Turn the sleeve right side out. Turn the bell wrong side out.

Fold the bell into quarters to find the center front, center back, left side and right side. Place pins in all 4 places then unfold it again.

Repeat with the sleeve. 

Both bell and sleeve should now be back in their circle shape but with pins at the center front, center back and side seams.

Now we are going to attach the right side of the bell to the right side of the sleeve hem. 

Start by slipping the sleeve inside the bell. Match the bell side seam to the sleeve side seam first and pin these together. 

Then match the other quarter points where you put the pins in the previous step. The benefit to doing this is that when you gather in the next step you can then do it in quarters and you’ll know your fabric will be more evenly gathered. 

We are now going to gather the bell to fit the sleeve. 

Starting at a side seam, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the bell. Gather the bell all the way around until it fits the sleeve.

You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers so it looks evenly gathered.

Stitch in between the two lines of gathering.

TIP – For the smaller sizes, you may find it easier to stitch from the inside of your sleeve (see the second photo on the left).

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the gathering thread so that they come all the way through the bell. Find the thread from the underside of the bell and pull this out too. 

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there.

For the Bell Sleeve skip to step 11.17 (you do not need to do step 11.16).

For the Trumpet Sleeves, continue below.

Fold your bias tape up away from the sleeve.

Stitch the bias tape in place from the inside of the sleeve.

From here you can either press the bias tape up or down. If you press it up towards the sleeve, your bell will hang down and have a narrower look. Alternatively, if you press the seam allowance down towards the bell, the bell will puff out more.

For Long Sleeves, skip to step 13. 

The method to hem the Bell Sleeves, Trumpet Sleeves and Half Angel Sleeves, are all the same. For any of these, follow along below.

First, FIT CHECK – Try the jacket on and check you are happy with the sleeve length. You will be hemming the sleeves ⅝ inch. If you would like it shorter, trim accordingly now.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hem. Fold under ⅝ inch, press and topstitch in place close to the folded edge. Then skip to step 13.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below. You can either turn the hem under twice and top stitch, or bind with bias tape.

To do a turned under hem, start at step 12.1. To do a bound hem with bias tape, start at step 12.4.

Turn the hem under ¼ inch and press.

Turn the hem under another ⅜ inch and press.

Top stitch the hem in place, close to the folded edge.

NOTE – Depending on your fabric choice for the sleeve, you may wish to use top stitching thread, or regular thread for this step.

Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.3 for the other sleeve hem.

For a turned under hem, your hem is now complete. Skip to step 13.

For a bound hem with bias tape, follow below.

First trim your sleeve hem by ⅝ inch so it is the exact length you want your finished sleeve to be. This also tidies up any loose threads, so you don’t have any sticking out of your finished binding.

Measure and cut a length of your bias tape that goes all the way around your sleeve plus an extra 1 inch.

Your bias tape is single fold, we need it to be double fold. Fold it in half down the center line and press. It is now double fold bias tape.

Slip the bias tape over the hem of your sleeve and pin in place all the way around. 

When you reach the beginning again, fold the end of the bias tape under by ½ inch. Tuck any raw edges up inside and pin in place.

Topstitch close to the edge to secure.

Repeat steps 12.4 to 12.7 for the other sleeve hem.

If you are doing the OPTIONAL Waistband Tabs, follow all steps in this section. 

If you are not doing the Waistband Tabs, skip to step 13.5. The steps are the same for you, just without the Tabs.

Turn the tab through and press. Make sure to poke the corners out fully so you get a nice crisp edge. Use a point turner or a blunt instrument such as a chopstick or knitting needle to help with this.

Top stitch around the three sides approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.

Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.3 with the other tab pieces so you have two completed Tabs

Place the Tabs on each end of the Back Waistband using the markings from the pattern piece. Make sure the side you want to be the right side of the tab is facing up. If you have used top stitching thread, it will be the side with this on. If you haven’t, either side could face up.

Baste the Tabs in place using a long loose stitch ½ inch from the raw edge to hold them there.

Place the right Front Waistband right sides together with the right side of the Back Waistband. Stitch ⅝ inch from the edge. Press the seam open.

Place the left Front Waistband right sides together with the left side of the Back Waistband. Stitch ⅝ inch from the edge. Press the seam open.

Turn the top edge of this Waistband piece under ⅝ inch. This will be your Waistband Lining. 

NOTE – If you have done the Tabs, the waistband lining is the piece without the Tabs. If you have not done the Tabs, either piece could be the lining.

Turn the waistband right side out. Make sure to poke the corners through fully using a point turner or a blunt instrument like a chopstick or knitting needle. 

Press.

TIP – Press the seam allowance from step 13.9 towards the folded waistband lining before you turn the waistband all the way through. This helps get a crisp edge and makes sure the seam sits neatly on the finished folded edge.

Tuck all the raw edges inside and press.

Top stitch approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edge all the way around the waistband.

If you have done the Tabs, there should be just enough room to stitch straight past them. However, on some sizes this will be a little tight. Stitch all the way up to the tab. Stop & back stitch. Then start again on the other side of the tab. You may need to do this on each side of the tab until you have stitched around the whole waistband.

The fastenings are marked on the Front Yoke, left front, right front, left Front Waistband and right Front Waistband pieces.

There is also one fastening marked on each Cuff if you are doing the Long Sleeves. Plus, one fastening marked on each tab if you are doing these.

Mark all of the appropriate fastenings you require from your pattern pieces using tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

If you are doing buttons and buttonholes, stitch your buttonholes now as marked. 

If you are doing snaps, skip to step 14.2.

NOTE – The Tabs do not need buttonholes. The buttons on these are decorations and are not functional.

TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric and/or denim can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!

TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, switch to a color matched, or contrasting regular thread if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty.

TIP – For heavy fabrics and medium weight denim, give your fabric a light bang with a mallet or hammer (with pressing cloth over to protect the fabric) to break the fibers down before stitching your buttonholes. It’ll make the needle slice in much more smoothly.

TIP – If you have any other difficulty, change your needle to a fresh denim-weight needle. You are right near the end of the garment now so it may have blunted, or even slightly bent during sewing. A fresh, straight, sharp needle can make all the difference.

If you are doing buttons, apply these now as marked.

If you are doing snaps, there will be a male part and a female part which join together. Work out which part you want on top. Apply these as marked to where the buttonholes are marked on the pattern pieces. Apply the parts that go on the bottom to where the buttons are marked on the pattern pieces.

TIP – If you are using medium or heavy weight fabric, use an awl or sharp pointed object to carefully pierce the fabric first. This will make a small hole and will make it much easier to insert the shank of the button. Make your hole as small as possible. If you make too large a hole, the button will move around.

TIP – If you are using a hammer on buttons or snaps, try applying a spare set to practice first. If you are using a hammer to apply them, also make sure to protect the button with a cloth. If you have one, a mallet is a better tool as it is softer and less likely to damage the button. Many suppliers provide a set of tools for applying metal or hammer on buttons/snaps. If they do not, placing your button face down on a wooden spoon can provide a sturdy but slightly rounded surface which will protect the button.