Dolls’ Paige Pencil Skirt

NOTE – If you have purchased both the child’s and ladies versions of this pattern, the sewing instructions are very similar but have a few key differences. Please ensure you are using the correct instructions for your size. The child’s and dolls instructions are identical.

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings from the pattern pieces to your fabric.

Interfacing

Apply iron-on interfacing to the front facing piece using the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you are doing the optional ties, follow the steps below. Otherwise skip to step 2.

NOTE – The tie pattern pieces come to a central point on each tie. If you prefer, you can cut them the same length but on an angle to the side as per the photos below. 

Pin the ties right sides together. Stitch along one of the long edges, around the pointed side and down the other long edge with a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave the short edge open for turning.

Clip corners, turn and press.

Topstitch around the long edges and pointed edge.

Pin the open edge of the tie to either side of the Front Skirt and baste to hold in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

The top edge of the tie should be ½ inch down from the top edge of the Skirt to allow for the seam allowance when we finish the waistline.

TIP – If you have not done basting stitches before, they are long loose stitches designed to hold fabric in place while you complete a garment. They will not be seen in the final garment and can be removed at the end if you wish. Set your sewing machine either to a ‘basting stitch’ if it has this setting, or simply to the longest stitch length possible if it does not.

With right sides together pin the front facing to the top of the Front Skirt and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Pin the Front Skirt to the front lining at the top edge. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – The Skirt will be significantly longer than the lining. This is correct and is so that the top part of the Skirt can roll inside the lining in the next step and become a facing that’s inside the skirt.

Flip the front lining over so that the wrong sides are together. Turn right way out so the facing is now on the inside of the Skirt with the lining. 

Press the top edge of the skirt.

NOTE – The Skirt will still be ½ inch longer than the lining. This is correct and the excess will become the hem later.

Next, we are going to add Tailors Tacks to the markings on the Skirt Vent. This is a very traditional method, but it is the one we have found best to complete this style of skirt. If you have a different method you would prefer to mark your vents with, do this now from the pattern pieces and skip to step 4. 

Otherwise follow below the next few steps, keeping in mind that for our tutorial we have labelled the back pattern pieces by the way you look at them when making up, not how as worn.

Place tailor’s tacks on the vent markings using the following steps:

Thread a needle with a contrasting thread and pull through so that you have a double layer of thread.

There are two tailor tack markings on each pattern piece so you will need to repeat each step to do both.

Insert the needle into the fabric where you have marked it and come back up through the fabric about ⅛ inch to the right of where you first inserted the needle. Pull through and leave a tail of about 2 inches.

NOTE – For some sizes, you’ll find the top of the vent is more diagonal, others it’s more horizontal. The method is still the same. The tailors tacks get placed along the seam line (½ inch in from the raw edge).

Go back down through the fabric at the top of the marking and then come back up ⅛ inch under where you last inserted the needle. Pull part way through, however leave a loop of thread.

Cut the thread leaving a tail of about 2 inches.

Repeat for the rest of the vent markings on both the Skirt and lining pieces.

Stay stitch just inside the seam allowance of the left Back Skirt.

Repeat for the right back and both lining back pieces.

NOTE – If you haven’t done stay stitching before, it is where you stitch inside the seam allowance so that it won’t be seen on the finished garment. It is just to stabilize the fabric and isn’t actually stitching anything together. You will only be stitching through one layer of fabric to stop it from stretching or moving around.

Place the Back Skirt pieces right sides together and pin down the center back to the vent.

Stitch the back seam from the top down to the tailor’s tack you made at the vent using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press open the seam allowance.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 for the back lining. 

NOTE – The vent pieces won’t match up at this stage. They will look strange. Just leave these, we will only be stitching from the top down to the tailors tack at the beginning of the vent.

Stitch from the waistline down to the tailors tack at the vent using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Pin the Back Skirt to the back lining at the top edge. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – The Skirt will be significantly longer than the lining. This is correct and is so that the top part of the Skirt can roll inside the lining in the next step and become a facing that’s inside the skirt.

The method we have used here to finish the Back Vent is a very traditional one and gives a beautiful finish. If you have a different method you would prefer to use to finish the back vent, do this now and skip to step 6. Otherwise follow below the next few steps, keeping in mind that for our tutorial we have labelled the back pattern pieces by the way you look at them when making up, not how as worn. 

TIP – If you are unsure which piece is left and which is right, please refer to your pattern pieces. It’s important to get them the correct way around or the vent will not line up easily.

Arrange your Skirt so that the linings are right sides together, and the main Skirt is right sides together.

On the right lining only, clip into the two angles. These are marked in blue on the photo below.

You will need to clip in at a 45-degree angle from the seam allowance. Use the very tip of your scissors for maximum control. You will only be cutting one layer of fabric.

You are snipping from the seam allowance into the Tailors Tack. Do not snip all the way up to the tack, but instead, as close to it as you can comfortably get. This is to allow the fabric to be opened easily in a later step.

Press the center back seam above where you have snipped open. Leave the fabric flat below the snip. There is a zoomed in photo below to show this.

NOTE – The blue lines below are not stitching, they are to denote the seam allowance so you can see how far in to snip. The tailors tacks are right on the seam allowance so snip as close to them as you can without actually touching them.

Cut into the left lining only at the 2 angles as you did on the right lining, using the point of your scissors for maximum control.

You need to snip at a 45-degree angle from the corner of the seam allowance in to the Tailors Tack, going as close to it as you can, without actually touching the tack. You will only be cutting one layer of fabric.

On the main skirt, clip the 45-degree angles going through both layers at the same time, from seam allowance to just before the tailors tack on the inner and outer parts of the vent as picture.

Lay your Skirt with the lining side up. 

Take your left lining piece and fold it over so it is right sides together with the right lining piece.

Pin the left lining piece vent to the Skirt underneath, making sure to match up the tailors’ tacks. You will be pinning through two layers of fabric only.

Stitch from the tailors tack along the short edge of the vent and down the long edge to the end of the lining. 

NOTE – Your main Skirt will be ½ inch longer than the lining. This is correct. The extra length is for the hem.

We will now be sewing the other side of the vent. 

Match the tailors tack from the back right lining piece to the tailors tack on the back left piece. 

Once the tailors’ tacks are lined up, pin down the vent and stitch. You will be stitching through 2 layers of fabric only (the back right lining piece and the back left Skirt piece).

TIP – If you are unsure if you have the correct pieces for this step, stitch using a temporary basting stitch, turn the garment right side out as in step 5.7, check it and then turn back through and stitch it using a normal straight stitch.

With the lining side up, reach in between the layers and push the vent out so that it now overlaps the other side of the vent. Press this seam flat.

Grab the angled piece at the top of the vent, slide it into the opening and press.

Baste along the angled fold to keep all the layers in place. 

Then move the lining out of the way and reach in between to grab the angled piece from the inside. 

Stitch along the angle as close to the basting as possible.

Carefully remove the basting stitches and all the tailor’s tacks.

Place the Front Skirt face up, then place the Back Skirt on top of it. 

Pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt with the right sides together and continue pinning with the front and back lining pieces right sides together. This will be one long seam. 

Stitch along the side seams using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press open the seam allowance.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 for the other side.

Turn the Skirt so that it is right side out.

In order to create a channel for the elastic, stitch from side seam to side seam along the back of the Skirt only. 

You will ‘stitch in the ditch’ (where you stitch exactly on top of a previous seam). Stitch along the seam between your outer facing and lining pieces. 

NOTE – Do not stitch along the front. Make sure to stitch along the back only. Start at one side seam, stitch along the line of where the facing meets the lining and stop at the other side seam.

Pull the lining up out of the way so that you can insert the elastic through the opening at the side seam. Thread the elastic into the channel and secure one end at the side seam by ‘stitching in the ditch’. Secure the other end by using a safety pin.

FIT CHECK – Try the garment on to check the fit. Adjust the waist elastic if needed so it fits comfortably and does not slip down.

Remove the safety pin and secure the other end of the elastic by ‘stitching in the ditch’ at the side seam.

TIP – To thread the elastic, I like to pin one end of the elastic to the Skirt, so it doesn’t slip inside. I then put a safety pin on the other end and thread it through using that to guide it.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge along the bottom edge with a ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn the hem under ½ inch, press and topstitch in place.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Turn the hem under ¼ inch and press.

Turn the hem under another ¼ inch and press. The raw edges will now be enclosed in the folds. 

Then topstitch or hand stitch in place by stitching close to the folded edge. 

TIP – If you are going to topstitch using your sewing machine, you want your stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the Skirt as much as possible so that it looks nice and neat from the outside. To do this, use your presser foot or a marking on your foot plate on your sewing machine to line up your fabric so you get a nice even stitch all the way around.