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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Dolls’ Pippa Pants
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
These comfy stretch pants are a quick and easy sew that can be used to dress your doll up or down. There are multiple options including two leg length options, a flat waistband or folded waistband with ruching at the sides and a regular or wide leg so you can create lots of different outfits.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizing for 18-inch doll.
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- +Preparation
- Folded over waistband OPTION:
- 2×2 inch square piece of iron-on interfacing / stabilizer
- OPTIONAL Ribbon, shoes string, cording
- Flat waistband OPTION – OPTIONAL 1 inch wide elastic. Approximately 0.8 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Front & Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- NOTE – For the Wide leg pants, use the outside (straight) wider cutting line on the legs. For the Regular leg pants, use the inside (curved) narrower cutting lines on the legs.
- Flat Waistband OPTION – Fabric cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Elastic cut 1 on fold
- Folded Over Waistband OPTION:
- Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Ties – Fabric cut 4 (or cut your ribbon/trim/cording to length)
- 2x pieces of interfacing / stabilizer measuring 2 x 2 inches
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewPippa Pants
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These super comfortable pants have a flat waistband, or a folded over waistband with ties and ruching at the side. There are two styles: regular or wide legs, and two lengths: full length or three quarter length.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
18 in Dolls
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted for an 18 inch Doll.
Materials and ToolsYour fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
Your fabric will need to have at least 50% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 50% longer than its original length, then it has at least 50% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 3 inches.
Both 2- and 4-way stretch fabrics will work for this pattern. You will achieve different fits with the different types of fabric. So be sure to make up a muslin in the same or similar fabric to check fit and find your preference for your fabric.
The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your pants maintain their stretch and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery, simply ensure that when you stretch your piece of fabric to check stretch it returns back to its original size. Alternatively, you can add a piece of elastic into your waistband to help maintain elasticity.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
¾ length
Full length
Dolls
0.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pants length Waistband OPTIONS Three-quarter Full Regular Folded over Dolls 2-3 2-3 3 4 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Pants length Waistband OPTIONS Three-quarter Full Regular Folded over Dolls 2-3 2-3 3 4 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Folded Over Waistband OPTION
Flat Waistband (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Elastic cut 1 length)
Waistband (Cut 1)
Ties (Cut 4)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Dolls
4.5
10.0
1.7
6.7
2.2
10.0
NOTE – If you are using the cutting chart for the folded over waistband, you will also need the markings on the pattern piece for the channels and buttonholes for the ties.
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
- Folded over waistband OPTION:
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer markings from pattern pieces to your fabric.
- INTERFACING – Fuse interfacing / stabilizer to the wrong side of the Waistband, over buttonhole areas (for fold over Waistband version).
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Place pants pieces right sides together and sew or serge front rise seam, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Finish edges if desired. Repeat with back rise.
- INSEAM – With right sides still together, match leg inseams at center rise seams and ankles. Sew or serge inside leg seam using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Finish edges if desired.
- FLAT WAISTBAND OPTION – Fold Waistband in half, right sides together, matching short sides. Sew or serge short sides, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Fold Waistband over in half from top to bottom, with wrong sides together, lining up both raw edges. OPTIONAL elastic: overlap elastic by ⅜ inch to make a circle and sew. Place into folded Waistband. Mark quarter points on raw edges of Waistband.
- FOLDED OVER WAISTBAND OPTION – Create ties by folding tie right sides together and stitching along long side and one short side. Turn right side out. Sew buttonholes on wrong side of main Waistband piece, as per pattern markings. Fold Waistband in half from side to side, with right sides together. Sew or serge side seam using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Fold Waistband piece in half from top to bottom, with wrong sides together, so that buttonholes are along the top folded edge. Create two channels on each side of Waistband, by sewing through all layers of fabric along the lines, as per pattern markings. Insert one tie through each buttonhole and thread down the channel. Pull tie through the buttonhole until the raw edge of the tie is even with the raw edge of the Waistband and baste in place. Mark quarter points on raw edges of Waistband. OPTIONAL elastic: overlap elastic by ⅜ inch to make a circle and sew. Place into folded Waistband.
- ATTACH WAISTBAND – Working from the right side of the pants, place the folded Waistband over the pants, so that the raw edges of the Waistband and pants meet. Align the Waistband seams with the pants back center seam and the center front notch on the Waistband to the pants center front seam. Match the quarter points. Pin to secure. Sew or serge while stretching the Waistband gently to match the pants, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Finish edges if desired. Pull Waistband up away from pants and press the seam allowance towards the pants. OPTIONAL – Topstitch seam.
- HEM – Press hems up towards the wrong side, using a ½ inch hem allowance. Top stitch around the hem at ⅛ inch from the raw edge. Repeat for the other leg.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching is two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch (can be done with double needle)
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching is two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch (can be done with double needle)
0.1Pattern Markings
Folded Over Waistband OPTION – Transfer channel and buttonhole markings from pattern pieces to the right side of your fabric.
0.2Interfacing
Folded Over Waistband OPTION – Fuse interfacing/stabilizer to the wrong side of the Waistband, over the area you will sew the buttonhole.
NOTE – We have put the markings on the wrong side of the fabric too so you can see where we mean in the photo, however your markings will be on the right side of the fabric.
Your channel and buttonhole markings should now be on the right side of the fabric.
Your interfacing should be on the wrong side of the fabric, directly underneath the buttonhole markings.
1 . Front and Back Rise1.1Place Front Legs right sides together and pin / clip at front rise seam.
1.2Using a ⅜ seam allowance, sew using a stretch stitch or serge the front rise seam.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch or zigzag.
TIP – Take care not to stretch rise curves as you sew.
1.3Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 with the Back Leg rise.
2 . Inseam2.1With right sides together, pin / clip inside leg seam, taking care to match the center front and back rise seams and hems.
2.2Using a ⅜ seam allowance, sew using a stretch stitch or serge the inside leg seam, starting at one ankle, and finishing at the other.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch or zigzag.
TIP – Press the front and back rise seam allowances opposite ways, to prevent bulk.
3 . Flat Waistband OPTION3.0If you are doing the flat Waistband, follow the steps below. If you are doing the folded over Waistband, skip to step 4.
3.1Fold Waistband in half, right sides together, matching short sides (you will be forming a circle).
Using a ⅜ seam allowance, sew using a stretch stitch or serge short side seams.
The Waistband should now form a circle.
3.2Fold Waistband over in half from top to bottom, with wrong sides together, lining up both raw edges.
You should still have a circle, but it will now be half the height.
OPTIONAL Waistband elastic: Overlap the raw edges of your elastic by ⅜ inch ensuring your elastic is not twisted. Sew together. Place your elastic circle inside your Waistband so that it is sandwiched between the two wrong sides.
3.3Divide Waistband into quarters and mark quarter points on raw edges with a pin or air-drying marker.
Skip to step 5.
4 . Folded Over Waistband OPTION4.0If you are doing the folded over Waistband, follow the steps below.
4.1If using ribbon, trim, or cording instead of fabric ties, skip to step 4.3.
Fold the tie piece in half, right sides together, lengthwise.
Using a ⅜ seam allowance, sew using a stretch stitch or serge along long edge and one short side seam, leaving one short side open.
Trim seam allowance to ⅛ inch.
4.2Turn right way out using your preferred method of turning.
TURNING TIP 1 – Before sewing, cut a length of strong string about 4 inches longer than the tie piece. Place in the middle of the tie piece, lengthways, with about 1 inch over the short edge you will sew. Sew as per above, making sure to catch the string in the short end seam and be careful to keep the string away from the long edge seam. Pull the end of the string to turn your tie piece the right way out. Trim string.
TURNING TIP 2 – Stitch normally, along one short side and the long side. Use a chop stick to poke the tie right way out, from the sewn short edge.
4.3Sew buttonholes on the right side of main Waistband piece, as per pattern markings.
Before sewing, make sure your interfacing is lined up underneath where the buttonhole will go. There will be 2 pairs of buttonholes (4 buttonholes in total).
Open buttonholes.
TIP – Place a pin at top of the buttonhole to prevent the seam ripper slipping through the end of the buttonhole.
OPTIONAL – For a more professional finish, use grommets instead of buttonholes. Apply as per manufacturer’s directions.
4.4Fold Waistband in half from side to side, with right sides together.
Using a ⅜ seam allowance, sew side seam using a stretch stitch or serge, to form a circle.
This seam will go at the center back in your finished pants.
TIP – Check the pattern piece to ensure you are sewing the sides and not top and bottom. The proportions are different for the different sizes so make sure to check.
4.5Fold Waistband piece in half from top to bottom, with wrong sides together.
The buttonholes should be along the top folded edge. Your interfacing should now be hidden inside the fabric.
4.6We will now stitch the channels for the ties. These will be aligned above the pants sides seams in the finished garment.
Following the channel markings, you drew on the right side of the fabric at the start, stitch three lines down each side of the Waistband (6 lines in total). Start at the raw edge and stitch towards the buttonholes at the fold. This creates 2 channels for each set of side seams.
Your Waistband needs to remain a circle. Make sure to keep the other side of the Waistband out of the way when stitching.
4.7Attach a safety pin to the open end of a tie and insert it through the buttonhole. Thread it down the channel. Pull the tie through the buttonhole until the raw edge of the tie is even with the raw edge of the Waistband and stitch it in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance on your sewing machine (not serger).
Repeat to thread the other ties through the other channels so there is then a tie in each of the four channels.
4.8Before continuing, look at the photos to the left to see how the Waistband will work when you have completed your pants. When you’ve attached the Waistband to the pants, gather the fabric around the ties so the Waistband is slightly shorter. Tie the ties in a bow. Then fold the waist band in half vertically so the ties are in a bow at the bottom of the Waistband where it joins the pants.
Do not do this now though. Leave the Waistband full height & un-gathered, and the tie undone for now.
Divide Waistband into quarters and mark quarter points on raw edges with a pin or air-drying marker.
Skip to step 5.
5 . Attach Waistband5.0This step is the same regardless of the Waistband option you did. Follow the same steps for both the flat Waistband and the folded over Waistband.
5.1Divide pants waist into quarters and mark with pins or air drying marker.
5.2Working from the right side of the pants, place the folded Waistband over the pants, so that the raw edges of the Waistband and pants meet.
Align the Waistband seams with the pants back center seam and the center front notch on the Waistband with the pants center front seam. Match the quarter points. Pin to secure.
Stitch or serge while stretching the Waistband gently to match the pants, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.
TIP – Face the Waistband seam allowances the opposite way to the back rise seam allowance, to prevent bulk.
5.3Pull Waistband up away from pants and press the seam allowance towards the pants.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Waistband/ pants joining seam.
6 . Hem6.1OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edge of the pants hems with a stretch overcasting stitch or serger.
Press hems up towards the wrong side, using a ½ inch hem allowance.
6.2Top stitch around the hem at ⅛ inch from the raw edge.
Repeat for the other leg.
TIP – When using the twin needle, loosen the needle tension to stop a ridge forming between the stitch lines.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Pippa Pants are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rppippapants.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewPippa Pants
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These super comfortable pants have a flat waistband, or a folded over waistband with ties and ruching at the side. There are two styles: regular or wide legs, and two lengths: full length or three quarter length.
SizingSize Range
18 in Dolls
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted for an 18 inch Doll.
Materials and ToolsYour fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
Your fabric will need to have at least 50% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 50% longer than its original length, then it has at least 50% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 3 inches.
Both 2- and 4-way stretch fabrics will work for this pattern. You will achieve different fits with the different types of fabric. So be sure to make up a muslin in the same or similar fabric to check fit and find your preference for your fabric.
The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your pants maintain their stretch and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery, simply ensure that when you stretch your piece of fabric to check stretch it returns back to its original size. Alternatively, you can add a piece of elastic into your waistband to help maintain elasticity.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
¾ length
Full length
Dolls
0.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Folded over waistband OPTION:
- 2×2 inch square piece of iron-on interfacing / stabilizer
- OPTIONAL Ribbon, shoes string, cording
- Flat waistband OPTION – OPTIONAL 1 inch wide elastic. Approximately 0.8 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
- Folded over waistband OPTION: