Dolls’ Portia Party Dress

½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch

NOTE – In the add on version of this pattern, there is also a sewing instructions section for woven fabrics, and a section for the lining option. In this free version, there is only one option to follow (unlined, knit fabrics) so just start at step 1 and follow it through.

Mark & Stitch Darts

The darts are required for the Woven AND the Knit versions in all sizes (dolls, child’s, and ladies). They give shape to the dress over the lower back and stop wrinkling under the bodice.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it:

If you haven’t done this before, lay the fabric wrong side up on your ironing board. 

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with half of the skirt. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board. Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place. 

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart. 

Draw the dart in between the corner points using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points. 

Leave the fabric where it is, turn the paper pattern piece over and repeat with the mirror image other half of the bodice, using the pin holes as your three corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric of the Back skirt down the centerline of one dart. Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart. Repeat for the second dart on the Front skirt. Press both darts towards the center of the skirt.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Sew and serge the shoulders using a ½ inch seam allowance then continue to step 2. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Pin the Front and Back bodice pieces with the right sides of the fabric together at shoulder seams.

NOTE – The Back armhole is wider than the Front. This is correct and part of what gives the armhole its shape. Just match along the shoulder seams at this point.

Stitch or serge the shoulder using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

If not using an overlocker/serger, trim the seam to ¼ inch and press to the back.

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. 

TIP – If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use a clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams to prevent them from stretching out overtime with wear. To install the elastic, leave excess on either ends of the seam, you can cut the excess later. Pin the elastic without stretching it and incorporate it to the shoulder seam.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Finish both sides of the Back bodice and neckline (as in photo 2.1). Then skip to step 2.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

OPTIONAL – Finish the Back opening and neckline with a stretch overcasting stitch. 

If doing a thread button loop, skip to step 3. If you are doing the ribbon button loop, continue with the following step. 

Fold your ribbon in half so it creates a loop. 

With your fabric right side up, line up the raw edges of the loop with the left raw edge of the back opening about ½ inch down from the neckline edge so the loop is facing into the fabric.

Stitch the button loop securely in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

When you fold your seam allowance back ½ inch the loop should protrude out far enough for your button to slip through.

There are two different neckline finishes offered here. Pick which one you will follow:

Finishing Method A:

• The first option is where you simply turn the raw (or serged) edge under and top stitch in place. This is the simplest and quickest method. 
• This finish is not visible from the outside of the garment however it will give a more curved look to the “V” and takes some slow sewing at the V to make sure you catch the seam allowance. 
• This method is more suitable for knit fabrics with 4 way stretch so that you can turn the seam allowance under at the V sufficiently to top stitch it in place without wrinkling the fabric. If you are using a fabric with only 2 way stretch, follow the other option (Finishing Method B). If you are unsure which type of stretch your fabric has, pull first along the length of the fabric and then secondly across the width of the fabric. If it stretches well both times, it has 4 way stretch. If it only stretches when you pull it one way, then it has 2 way stretch.
• If you want to follow this method, start at step 3.1, and continue on. 

Finishing Method B: 

• The second option is where you use visible bias tape along the neckline. 
• It’s a more traditional and precise finish, however you will see the bias tape while wearing the dress. 
• This method is suitable for both 4 way and 2 way stretch fabrics.
• If you want to follow this method, complete steps 3.1 and 3.2, then skip to step 3.4.

If doing the open back, skip to step 3.2.

PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK – If doing the closed back, fold the top so that the Backs are right sides together.

With the right sides of the fabric together, stitch the center back from the waist up to the notch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the notch. 

PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK – Press the seam open all the way to the neckline (all the way past the notch to the top). From the right side, topstitch the seam allowance down on either side of the back opening using a medium length straight stitch. You should be stitching just under ½ inch from the folded edge so that it catches the seam allowance. Stitch from the neckline all the way down to the hem. Skip to step 3.3.

OPEN BACK – For the open back option you are doing the same except there is no notch. Press your back opening seam allowance under using a ½ inch seam allowance. Topstitch the seam allowance down all the way from the neckline to the hem. Continue on with step 3.3.

TIP – You can either use a medium length straight stitch for this top stitching, or from the right side of the fabric, a straight stitch using a twin needle.

NOTE – If you did a ribbon button loop, after pressing your seam allowance open, your button loop should now be folded back with the fabric so it protrudes past the seam allowance and you can use it. Be careful to keep the button loop out of the way as you stitch. If you are doing a thread button loop, we will complete this later.

FINISHING METHOD A – Fold the (finished or raw) edges of the neckline under ½ inch and press. Pin or use clips to hold it in place.

If your fabric is a little stiff, you will need to clip the seam allowance directly under the V. Using the very tip of your scissors, make a little snip into the seam allowance, just enough to help the V sit flat from the right side. Don’t cut too far or you’ll end up with a hole! 

If your fabric is very stretchy, you might turn the V under easily without clipping into the seam allowance but keep in mind that you will likely need to taper the neckline allowance to ¼ inch instead of ½ inch to keep it flat.  

From the right side, topstitch the Front and Back neckline continuously using a medium length straight stitch just under ½ inch.

TIP – Because of the opening of the Back, the back seams and the neckline seam won’t be under too much pressure, therefore a stretch stitch isn’t strictly necessary. A twin needle will give the most professional looking finish, or you could use a regular straight stitch or a zigzag stitch to topstitch but it’s up to your personal preferences.

TIP – To get as sharp a corner as possible at the front V, go slowly and put the needle down when you get to the center front. Then lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric before putting your presser feet down again.

If you have done the ribbon loop, skip to step 4.1. If you are doing the thread loop skip to step 3.11.

FINISHING METHOD B – 

First, trim the neckline seam allowance by ¼ inch all the way around the Front and Back.

TIP – Measure and draw a line down each side of the V ¼ inch from the edge with tailors chalk or a fabric pen so you can just cut along it.

NOTE – The reason we are trimming the neckline down by ¼ inch is so that the finished neckline is the same height as if you had done the other finishing method. If you’d like it ¼ inch higher for more coverage, you could skip this step.

Then staystitch all along the front and back of the neckline using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Make sure to pivot at the center front V.

TIP – Staystitching is just a regular stitch, but you do not need to backstitch at either end. It is to give the fabric stability and stop it stretching or changing shape when we manipulate it in the next few steps.

Next, draw a line down the middle of the V at the center front using tailors chalk or a washable fabric marker. This will serve as a cutting guide.

Make a snip into the seam allowance following the line you just drew. Stop ⅛ of an inch from the stay stitching you just did in step 3.5.

TIP – Place two pins to help you stop cutting at the right point. One at the end of the V and one ⅛ above it. Use the very tip of your scissors for maximum control.

Open the slit, straightening the neckline so it’s as straight and horizontal as possible. 

Pin the bias tape to the slit, right sides together. Make sure to leave about ¼ inch of bias tape overhanging each end.

Your bias tape should go all the way from the center back on one Back neckline edge, around the front, all the way to the center back edge of the other Back neckline.

For some fabric types you will be able to straighten the neckline all the way around the Front and Back so you have one long seam to pin your bias tape to. For other fabric types you may need to curve your bias tape to attach it as you get to the back of the neckline. 

NOTE – If you’re using a store-bought bias tape, you’ll notice that one half is slightly wider than the other. Pin the narrower side to the right side of your fabric.

Using approximately a ¼ inch seam allowance, stitch along the first fold in the bias tape to attach it to the neckline, making sure to get a clean straight line.

Your stitching should be approximately on top of your stay stitching from step 3.5.

At either end of the neckline, turn the overhanging bias tape under and press.

Fold the bias tape all the way over the seam allowance to the back side. Make sure that the edge of the tape goes just over the stitching line, and that the overhanging edges at either end are tucked inside.

Give it a press and pin in place. All the raw edges should now be enclosed inside the bias tape.

Here are two options to finish your neckline. Stitching from the right side of your piece you can choose to:

1. Stitch in the ditch – Stitch right in the space between fabric and bias tape being careful that you catch the other side of the tape as well. With this option you won’t have any visible stitching on the bias tape.
2. Top stitch the bias tape with a ⅛ inch seam allowance or as close to the edge as you can.

The point of the V will not be crisp yet. This is correct.

Press.

Fold the front of the dress, right sides touching and aligning the edges of the bias tape you just sewed.

Stitch a straight line from the center fold to the edge of the trim. This will give a clean look to the V.

It will be a very short little seam you are sewing, through multiple layers so you may need to stitch several times over the same piece to secure. Make sure to trim your threads well so they do not show.

If you have done the ribbon loop, skip to step 4.1. If you are doing the thread loop continue below.

THREAD LOOP: Cut 2 pieces of thread that matches your dress and thread both of them through your needle. Cut them at least 6 times the length of your intended button loop. Pull them through the needle eye until you match the ends, so you will end up with 4 threads 3 times the length of your intended button loop.

TIP – If you want to create a thicker thread button loop, you can use 3 or 4 threads from the start

Tie a knot in the end.

Make a little stitch into the fabric where you want your loop to start.

TIP – Start your thread loop about ¾ to 1 inch down from the top of the center back edge of the neckline. Stitch it right on the edge of the seam so the button loop will lay flat against the skin. 

Make a small stitch just beside the starting stitch but don’t pull the thread all the way closed until you create a loop.

Reach the needle though the center of the loop but don’t pull all the way again so you create a second loop.

Tighten the first loop and drop the needle into the second loop in the same manner.

Close the second loop and so on. Once your chain has reached your desired length, finish by pulling the needle through the fabric.

Backstitch or tie a knot. Cut the remaining thread.

TIP – Try to push your button through the loop before you secure it. Check it is not too short that you can’t get it through, but not so long that the button will be able to wiggle itself loose easily.

Measure down from the top of the center back piece to your loop. Measure down the same distance on the opposite center back piece and mark with a pin. Sew on your button.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Finish both sleeves raw edges. Then skip to step 4.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

OPTIONAL – Finish the sleeve raw edge with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Fold the sleeve hem under ½ inch and press. Topstitch using a medium length straight stitch just under ½ inch. Press. 

Alternatively, you could hem using a twin needle, a zigzag stitch, a roll hem, or a cover stitch. 

TIP – For knit fabrics which are very drapey, you may find that hemming reduces the drape. If your fabric does not fray and you wish to keep the hemline as soft as possible, you could trim carefully instead of hemming and leave the edge unfinished. A roll hem using a serger is another option which can look softer than a turned under hem. Try the options on a scrap of fabric before completing your hem so you can decide what you prefer most.

NOTE – The reason we do the hem here, before the side seam is that for the very small sizes, this can be tricky to do once the side seam is finished.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Sew the Front bodice to the Front skirt using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge the raw edge. Start from one side to the center then serge from the other side to the center. Press towards the top. skip to step 5.4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

On the wrong side of the skirt fabric, mark a straight line ½ inch down from the center front point with tailors chalk or a washable fabric marker. 

This will help you get a precise pivot point when attaching the Front bodice to the Front skirt. 

We are going to pin and then stitch the skirt to bodice one side at a time. This will give a nice crisp “V” to the point under the bust and will stop any wrinkling that can happen if you stitch the whole seam in one go.

Pin one side of the Front bodice to the Front skirt with right sides together, matching the side seams and the center of the V.

Leave the other side of the skirt and bodice loose for now.

TIP – You may find pinning the bodice to the skirt challenging due to their opposite curves. Start by pinning the center front and side and continue to pin all the way around the curves. Take your time and use lots of pins or clips.  

Stitch from the side seam to the center using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.  Stop exactly at the center front line you drew in step 5.1.

Using the very tip of your scissors, clip into the seam allowance of the skirt only at center front. When you make the cut, cut down the line you drew in step 5.1 and stop just short of your stitches (approximately ⅛ inch from the stitching). Do not clip through your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole.

This little clip will help the waist seam sit flat after you’ve sewn it. 

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Repeat step 5.2 to pin the other side of the bodice to the other side of the skirt. Pin at the side seam, then ease it in along the curve to the center.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance from the side seam into the centerline you marked. 

As you approach the centerline, make sure the fabric from the other side of the bodice & skirt is out of the way. Stitch slowly and stop at the centerline. Do not go past the seam or it will make a funny little tuck when you open the seam out.

Press the seam up towards the top.

OPTIONAL – Bust elastic

If you would like the front top slightly gathered at the center bust, add Bust elastic now.

Measure height of center top (from peak of skirt to point of V). Cut a piece of elastic, half of this measurement.

Pin it in place at the top, underneath the center of the V. Stretch the elastic and stitch it to the dress, using a zig zag stitch. This step will give the bust more shape. 

PARTIALLY CLOSED BACK – With right side of the fabrics together, align the raw edge of Back bodice with the raw edge of the skirt Back and pin. 

OPEN BACK – Fold the back of the skirt in half and mark the center of the Back skirt with a pin. Unfold again. With the right side of the fabrics together, align the raw edge of Back of the bodice with the raw edge of the skirt Back and pin. The Back bodice pieces should meet at center back and lay side by side. They won’t overlap. 

Stitch or serge using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch and press. 

FIT CHECK – If possible, clip or baste this step before stitching fully. Try the garment on and check for fit at the side seams. Adjust if needed then continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Sew and serge the sides right side to right side using a ½ inch seam allowance from the sleeve hem down to the skirt hem. Then skip to step 8.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the Front and Back pieces together starting at the sleeve down to the skirt hem. Make sure to match the underarm seam. 

Stitch from the skirt hem to the sleeve hem using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. 

Press the seam towards the back.

Try the dress on and check you are happy with the fit. Make any adjustments to the side seams if you prefer.

FIT CHECK – Try the dress on, check you are happy with the length and adjust if needed. Make sure to allow 1 inch total for your hem.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the skirt raw edge using a ½ inch seam allowance and fold the hem under ½ inch. Topstitch.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Trim your hem allowance by ½ inch.

OPTIONAL – Finish the skirt raw edge with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Fold the skirt hem under ½ inch and press. Topstitch using a medium length straight stitch just under ½ inch. Press. 

Alternatively, you could hem using a twin needle, a zigzag stitch, a roll hem, or a cover stitch. 

NOTE – The hem allowance is 1 inch so that if you are doing the woven version, you will have enough fabric to turn your hem under twice so the raw edges are hidden inside the hem. As we are using knit in this version, we don’t need to do that. Hence either serging or trimming off ½ inch before turning the fabric under. Alternatively, if you prefer your dress longer, just leave the excess on.