Dolls' Riviera Shirt

Pattern Markings

Before transferring your markings, decide whether you want the left or the right of the shirt front to fold on top when you close the shirt.  

Traditionally female shirts close with the left piece on top as you look at the shirt (the model’s right). Men’s shirts close in the opposite direction. Ladies used to have a lady’s maid help them get dressed and this enabled right-handed lady’s maids to do up the lady’s shirts more easily from the front. Men more commonly fastened their own shirts. 

Nowadays (with a distinct lack of lady’s maids!), both styles are common for either gender. If you would like your shirt to be traditional, for females, the left front piece needs to close on top as you look at the shirt. For males, the right front piece needs to close on top. If you don’t mind (or are a left-handed male or a right-handed female without a lady’s maid!) you can do the opposite. It’s up to you. Take note of which side you decide now before markings your fastenings as below.

Lay your Front pieces flat and using chalk or an erasable fabric marker, mark from the pattern where the fastenings will go.

BUTTONS OPTION – For buttons and buttonholes, find the markings for your size on the side of the shirt you want them to be. The buttonholes should be marked exactly as they are on the pattern piece. The buttons should be marked as a cross in the center of each buttonhole marking on the pattern piece.

SNAPS / POPPERS OPTION – Mark the center point of each buttonhole marking on the pattern piece as a cross on the fabric. This is where your snaps or poppers will go.

Using chalk or an erasable fabric marker, transfer the ‘ruffle placement / foldline 1’ from the pattern piece onto both fronts. This should be 2 ½ inches from the raw edge.

TIP – Measure carefully and make sure your line is the same distance from the raw edge all the way down. It will be important later in attaching the ruffle to the front.

Interfacing

Fuse a strip of light weight interfacing between the first and second fold lines as marked on the pattern piece on the wrong side of each front piece.

This interfacing is important as it will give structure to the front part of the garment and prevent the weight of the Ruffle from folding in on itself.

Trim the lightweight interfacing for your Collar and Collar Stand by ¼ inch all the way around to reduce bulk for later in the sewing process.

Fuse your interfacing on the Collar and Collar Stand per manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure it is positioned in the center of each piece so the section you trimmed off is even all the way around.

Bias Tape

You will need bias tape to bind the armhole in step 6. If you have purchased ready-made bias tape, check it is 1 inch wide when completely unfolded. Then, skip to step 1.

If you made your own bias tape by cutting strips on the diagonal, we are going to fold and press as if we were making single fold bias tape (don’t worry if you don’t know what that is, just follow these instructions). 

• Fold one bias strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Press well.
• Tuck each long raw edge into the middle of the fold so that the long raw edges are all hidden.
• Open the central fold back out again.
• Press. 
• You now have ½ inch single folded bias tape. The raw edges should be folded into the middle.

If you get stuck, download our free bias tape tutorial and follow the instructions for ‘single fold bias tape’. 

NOTE – You can also use narrower bias tape. This will give a very professional finish; however, it will also be quite fiddly to attach. The narrowest bias tape I would recommend would be ½ inch when unfolded (¼ inch when single folded).

Staystitch the Front necklines.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch. It won’t be removed later so make sure to stay just inside the ½ inch seam allowance. 

Stitch in the same direction of the arrows in the photo. 

NOTE – Staystitching is a permanent line of stitches around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the collar won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.  Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we get the collar on.

Staystitch the Back neckline in the direction of the arrows.

Start your stitching at the center back and stitch out towards one shoulder. Then, repeat and stitch towards the other shoulder.

If you are doing the Plain Placket option, skip to step 4. If you are doing the Ruffled Placket, continue below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – To assemble the bottom ruffle, pin the Bottom Ruffle Parts A and B straight ends right side together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Finish the seam with a serger. Skip to step 3.4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to assemble the bottom ruffle (it comes in 2 pieces). The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, just follow along below:

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin one Bottom Ruffle Part A and Part B together. 

The edges you are pinning together are the straight ones. Make sure to check on the pattern pieces you are pinning the correct edges. 

• On Part A, one edge is marked ‘Sew to neckline’, the other edge is marked ‘Sew to Part B’. You want the edge marked ‘Sew to part B’. 
• On Part B, there is only 1 straight edge. Use this.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at both ends.

NOTE – At the end of step 2.3, there should be one assembled bottom ruffle for the left side of your finished shirt, and one for the right side. They will be mirror images of each other. Make sure you’ve got the matching sides by laying them both out before you stitch.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half. 

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice. Press this tiny seam allowance to one side. Turn the seam inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold. 

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. This encases the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Press the seam allowance down towards the shorter (smaller) part of the Ruffle.

Repeat for the other Bottom Ruffle Part A and Part B so that you have two complete Bottom Ruffles (one left and one right).

Hem the outside edge of the following pieces:

• Bottom Ruffle
• Top Ruffle
• OPTIONAL Sleeve

NOTE – There is a ½ inch seam allowance included for hemming the Ruffle. If you are using one of the methods below that use a smaller seam allowance, you will need to trim the Ruffle first. Alternatively, you could leave the Ruffle width as is for a wider, larger looking ruffle. To get an approximate idea of size, hold the ruffle straight down the model’s body.

ROLL HEM OPTION – One option is to use a roll hem option on a serger / overlocker, or your sewing machine. You will need to remove approximately ¼ inch from the curved edge before sewing your rolled hem. The very curved edges mean you will need to go slowly to make sure you catch all the raw edges. Do this and skip to step 2.7.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge with knife engaged, using a ¼” seam allowance, then fold the edge under ¼ inch. Top stitch. Skip to step 2.7.

REGULAR HEM OPTION – To do a regular hem, we will turn the raw edges under ¼ inch twice and press. However, hemming the tight curves of the ruffles can be trickier than hemming straight edges, especially in the smaller sizes where the curves are smaller. Plus, the seam allowance is very narrow on this piece. So, we will use the following method:

Sew a basting stitch (loose, long stitch) around the ruffle outer edge just under ¼ inch from the edge with the right side of the fabric facing up (pink thread in the photo). Do not backstitch at both ends and leave a thread tail of a few inches on each side. 

Sew a second basting row just under ½ inch from the edge and about ¼ inch from the first row (blue thread in the photo). Again, do not backstitch and leave a thread tail at each end. 

Carefully pull on the bobbin thread of the basting stitches closer to the edge and spread the gathers all around the curve with your fingers. Do not pull on both sets of threads, just the bobbin thread that is closest to the raw edge.

You will notice that the fabric edge will try to fold toward the wrong side. Don’t pull too much on the thread, try to pull just enough so that the edge will curl under and the curve sit flat. 

There will be little gathers of fabrics under, but that’s ok. Simply spread the tiny gathers with your fingers all over the curve to reduce the bulk and carefully press flat with your iron. 

Repeat the same steps with the second row of basting stitches (blue) to enclose the raw edge.  

Press carefully with an iron and pin. Do not move the iron back and forth but apply pressure with the iron. 

From the right side of the fabric, topstitch the curve just under ¼ inch. 

Carefully remove any visible basting stitches by gently pulling on the ends of the gathering threads until they come through the hemline.

Repeat with the second row of basting stitches (blue) to enclose the raw edge.  

Carefully pull on the bobbin thread of the second row of basting stitches so the fabric rolls to the wrong side and spread the tiny gathers out along the curve.

Press carefully with an iron and pin.  

Again, do not move the iron back and forth, but apply pressure with the iron. 

From the right side of the fabric, topstitch the curve just under ¼ inch. 

Carefully remove any visible basting stitches by gently pulling on the ends of the gathering threads so that they come all the way through the hemline.

Press again.

Repeat steps 2.4 to 2.6 so you have finished the edges of the Top Ruffle, Bottom Ruffle and OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle.

Place the wrong side of the Top Ruffle over the right side of the Bottom Ruffle. Line them up carefully, starting from the top (RED LINE) and downwards. Pin them together down the inside curved edge (BLUE LINE).  

The top ruffle will be shorter than the bottom one. 

Baste with a loose and long stitch, close to the edge (approximately ⅛ inch).

TIP – If you are doing a smaller size and you are having difficulty aligning the raw edges, make a few small snips within the ruffle seam allowance to help it lay flat.  Be careful not to pull or stretch the fabric or the ruffle will end up longer than intended.  

PLAIN PLACKET OPTION – Skip to step 3.2. 

RUFFLED PLACKET OPTION – Pin the wrong side of the front Ruffles to the right-side of the Fronts using the ‘Ruffle Placement Line’ marking on the pattern piece as a guide. Once you straighten out the Ruffle so it is in one long straight line, the raw edge of the ruffle should be exactly on the markings (2.5 inches in from front raw edge for all sizes). 

Stitch close to the edge (approximately ⅛ inch) around the neckline of the Ruffle and down the Front of the ruffle (see blue lines on photo).

We are now going to enclose the raw edge of the Ruffle in a Placket by making a fold on the front like a French seam. Don’t worry if you haven’t done it before, just follow along with the steps one by one and it’ll work in the end!

To do this, fold the Front, right side to right side, over the raw edge of the Ruffle and along the ‘Foldline 1’ marking on the pattern piece. E.g. You are folding the front raw edge over onto itself, 2.5 inches from the edge so it covers the Ruffle.

NOTE – Steps 3.2 to 3.5 are the same for both the plain Placket and the Ruffled Placket. Follow exactly the same steps, just omitting the Ruffle. Steps 3.2 and 3.3 might seem odd as you aren’t enclosing a Ruffle, but it creates the inside edge of the Placket from the Front of the shirt so it’s still important.

From the wrong side, stitch ¼ inch from the folded edge. 

The basting stitches and raw edges on the Ruffle should now be enclosed in a sort of French seam.

Open out and press the fold towards the raw edge (away from the Ruffle).

Fold the raw edge of the front toward the wrong side along ‘Foldline 2’ marking on the pattern piece (¼ inch from the raw edge).

Fold the Front under again with the wrong sides of the fabric together along ‘Foldline 3’ marking on the pattern piece (1 inch in from folded edge).

Working from the right side of the fabric, pin the Placket in place. 

Top stitch ⅛ inch from each edge of the Placket. 

This should now complete the Placket and it should be 1 inch wide. The Ruffle raw edge will be enclosed, the front folded neatly so that it hides the construction & its own raw edge.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the other Ruffle and other side of the shirt so both are a mirror image of each other.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With right sides together, pin the front pieces to the back at the shoulders. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance.  Skip to step 5.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to assemble the shoulders. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Pin the front and back at the shoulders with the wrong side to wrong side (right sides outwards).

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Press this tiny seam allowance to one side. 

Turn the seam inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold. 

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam). 

Press the seam towards the back.

If you are doing the Sleeveless option, skip to step 6. If you are doing the Sleeve Ruffle, continue below.

Fold the Sleeve Ruffle in half to find the center and mark the fold with a pin.

NOTE – The outside edge of the Sleeve Ruffle should already be hemmed or finished from step 3. If you missed this, make sure to go back and do it before you attach it here.

With the right sides of the fabric together, align the pin with the shoulder seam and continue to pin toward the sides. Baste (long and loose stitch) using a ¼ seam allowance.

The sleeve edge raw edges will still be showing. We will finish it in the next step.

The photos on this step all show the sleeve, however, this step is the same regardless of whether you did the optional sleeve or not. Whether or not you did the sleeve, follow the steps below to finish your armholes.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edge of the armhole. Turn the serged edge under ¼ inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Top stitch. Skip to step 7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Open the single fold bias and pin it along the armhole right sides together, aligning raw edges. 

Stitch along the first fold about ¼ inch from the raw edge.

Trim off the binding excess.

Trim the seam allowance in half (⅛ inch).

Using the very tip of your scissors, make little snips into the seam allowance every ½ inch. 

Go slowly and make sure you don’t cut into your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole!

Press the bias biding and the seam allowance up, away from the armhole. 

If you are doing sleeve ruffles, pin them out of the way, toward the shoulder.

Understitch the seam allowance to the bias binding ⅛ from the edge or as close as you can.

NOTE – Understitching is when you stitch the seam allowance to the bias binding. This helps your bias tape stay rolled to the inside so you can’t see it and makes the armhole edges crisp.

Fold the bias all the way to the wrong side, over the seam allowance and pin the folded edge of your binding just under your stitching line, enclosing all raw edges. 

If you are doing the Sleeve Ruffle, move the Ruffle out of the way so you don’t catch it under your stitches.

NOTE – The finished bias facing will be ¼ inch wide and won’t be seen from the right side.

Edgestitch the bias to the armhole about ⅛ from the edge of the bias tape.

SIMPLE SIDES – If you are using a regular sewing machine, skip to step 8.8. If you are serging, serge the front and back pieces right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back and skip to step 8.

BIAS CUT SIDE PANELS – The pattern pieces for the side sections are all cut on the bias (diagonal). This means you need to take extra care with them while sewing to make sure they don’t stretch out of shape.

TIPS for working with bias cut fabrics:

• On the following steps, you will manipulate pieces cut on the bias. Use a gentle hand and avoid pulling on the fabric as you sew. 
• To prevent your iron from stretching and distorting the grain, press your seams with an on and off motion instead of moving your iron back and forth on the fabric.
• When sewing bias cut pieces, sew from the bottom of the garment to the top to prevent the seam from stretching out.
• NOTE – Pressing is when you apply pressure with your iron on the fabric repeatedly. Ironing is moving the iron back and forth on the fabric.

BIAS CUT SIDE PANELS, SERGER/OVERLOCKER OPTION –

• Place the side front and side back panels right sides together and sew using a ½ inch seam allowance. Finish the seam with a serger. Press the seam towards the back. 
• Sew the side bottom panel to the side front and back using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge/overlock the seam allowance. Press the seam down towards the hem.
• Sew and serge using a ½ inch seam allowance the side panel to the front.  Then sew and serge the side seam and the side panel to the back continuously.
• Skip to step 8.

BIAS CUT SIDE PANELS, REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –

Sew the Side Front and Side Back panels together using a French seam like you did for the shoulder seam in steps 4.1 to 4.3. Press the seam towards the back.

NOTE – Pay attention to which panel pieces you are sewing as they look similar. 

NOTE – Each of the seams we sew in this step are going to be French seams so skip back to the shoulder seam to remind yourself if you need to. 

Trim at the bottom to take off just under ½ inch of the French seam’s seam allowance. 

Do not trim any more than ½ an inch. The idea is to get a nice sharp angle and reduce bulk when you will sew the side bottom panel on, but still have the trimmed bit hidden inside the next seam.

Sew the Side Bottom panel to the Front and Back panel wrong sides together using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – To get a nice sharp angle on the panel, sew with the side front and side back panel on top so you can see where the point is. Go slowly and put the needle down when you get to the seam line. Then, lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric before putting your presser feet down again.

Clip the pointed end into the seam allowance through all layers up to the stitching line. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the point sit flat when we turn it right way out.

Trim the seam allowance in half. 

Press this tiny seam allowance to one side. 

Turn the seam inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again ¼ inch from the edge. 

Press the seam allowance down. This will create a French seam.

Attach completed Side Panel to the Front using another French seam.

Press the seam towards the Front.

FIT CHECK – Before sewing this step, pin or clip the side seam in place and try on to check the fit. Make any adjustments and then continue. For some body shapes, you may need to take the side seam in slightly under the arm. This is a fitted shirt so what you are looking for here is to check the garment sits relatively flat against the body and there are no gaping areas.

SIMPLE SIDES – Sew the side seam using a French seam. Press the seam towards the back. Skip to step 8.

BIAS CUT SIDE PANELS – Sew the side seam and attach the side panel to the back in a continuous French seam. Press the seam towards the back. Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.8 to stitch the side panel and attach to the other side of the shirt.

With right sides of the fabric together, pin the two Collar pieces and stitch along the outer curve line using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim and grade the seam allowance.

To grade the seam allowance, first neaten both seam allowances and then trim one of them in half, so it’s half the width of the other. 

NOTE – If you are using 2 different fabrics for the Collar and under Collar, keep in mind that your widest seam allowance should be the one that will sit along your main fabric (Collar) and the narrower will be along your under Collar.

Clip the curves using the very tip of your scissors for maximum control. Don’t go too close to the stitching or you’ll end up with a hole.

Turn the Collar right side out, roll your seam a little to the underside, and press. 

Top stitch the Collar curved edge about ⅛ inch from the edge.

Baste the opening of the Collar closed about ¼ inch from the edge using a long loose stitch.

Fold one interfaced Collar Stand and the Collar both in half to find the center. 

Mark each center with a pin.

Place the Collar with the underside right side up. Align one interfaced Collar Stand on the Collar starting from the middle, right sides together. Pin and stitch just inside the seam allowance.

NOTE – If you used the same fabric for both sides of the Collar, the underside is the one you rolled the seam allowance slightly towards in step 8.3. It could be either side, we just want to slightly hide the seam in the finished Collar.

Place the remaining Collar Stand on top. Pin with the right side down facing the Collar. 

This will sandwich the Collar between the Collar Stands right sides. 

Sew with a ½ inch seam allowance.

Grade the seam allowance down like you did step 8.2.

Turn the Collar Stand right side out and press flat.

Open the Collar Stand and pin one raw edge right side to right side all around the Collar. You will need to ease the Collar and shirt together (gently stretch) so they fit neatly.

Make sure to follow the full seam allowance line ½ inch from the edge on both the Collar and neckline to ensure the Collar is not too long for the neckline.

The ½ inch seam allowance helps the Collar Stand up when the blouse is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the Collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Take care when doing this to go no further than ½ way into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise, you could end up with a hole in your Collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance. Make sure to open the Collar up as much as you can to get all the way into the corners with your stitching. Go slowly and be careful not to catch the other side of the Collar or any other part of the shirt with your stitching.

TIP – It can be tricky on the smaller sizes to get your presser foot into the very corner of the Collar. If you have difficulty, you can finish this by hand stitching if you prefer. You may also find using a smaller presser foot like a zip foot attachment can help.

Press the Collar Stand and the seam allowance up and away from the shirt.

Fold the remaining Collar Stand raw edge under ¼ inch and press. 

Clip the corners, if necessary, to make it lay flat when you pin the collar stand down next (the smaller sizes won’t need this, but the larger sizes may).

Working from the outside, pin the collar stand down, enclosing all raw edges. Smooth out all wrinkles and make sure everything is flat. 

From the right side, top stitch all the way around the Collar Stand using a ⅛ seam allowance. Press.

NOTE – You are not just stitching the bottom of the collar stand to the shirt; you’re stitching all the way around. You will sew around the bottom as well as up the curves and along the top too. This gives a professional finish and helps keep the seam allowance with the collar flat while wearing.

Press the Collar down.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw hem edge. Fold the serged edge by ⅜ inch and press. Topstitch. Skip to step 10.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Turn the hem raw edge under ⅜ inch and press. 

TIP – To get your hem even, try stitching a basting stitch (loose, long stitch) around your hem using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then, turn under and press using your stitches as a guide.

Fold down the hem another ⅜ and press.  From the right side, top stitch just under ⅜ inch. Press.

BUTTON OPTION –

If you are using buttons, follow your machine’s instructions to stitch your buttonholes as marked on the Placket (left or right depending on what you decided in Step Preparation A).

Stitch your buttons on the other Placket as marked. TIP – Pin your shirt closed and check your buttonholes line up with your button markings by poking a pin through the newly stitched buttonhole. 

OPTIONAL – Add a button and buttonhole to the edge of the Collar in line with your fastenings on the placket. 

SNAPS / POPPERS OPTION – If you are doing poppers / snaps on the front placket, apply these according to manufacturer’s instructions where you marked the button and buttonhole on the front placket (and optionally on the collar in line with the placket markings). Position the male parts on button markings and the female parts buttonhole markings.