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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Family PJs – Ladies’ Pajamas
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This pyjama sewing pattern makes a loose fitting and comfortable pyjama set with a button up shirt and elasticated waist trouser. They can be worn throughout the year depending on the fabric used and there is an optional short sleeve and short option as well as optional pockets and optional piping.
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- +Preparation
- Measure, measure, measure – Please measure the person you are making the pajamas for then check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished measurement chart. Sizes vary country to country and the sizing may match what you’re expecting, or it may not. To ensure you get the best fit, please use the size you fall into on our size chart, rather than what size you’ve worn in ready to wear clothing.
- Picking your size and blending – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes.
- When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement for the Top. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out or in, to the correct waist. Depending on your shape, you may need a full tummy adjustment.
- For the pants choose the size using the hip measurement. As this is elasticated this will recover back into your waist. If your tummy/waist is bigger than your hips, you will need to grade from your hip to your waist.
- Ladies height adjustment – The ladies pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below these, you can add or remove length throughout the pajamas.
- Follow this tutorial to make the adjustments to the bodice.
- If you need to lengthen or shorten, we suggest doing this at the knee, which is halfway between the crotch and the hem.
- Crotch fitting – Pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. For back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting, so you might not need to make any adjustments. Once you have made your muslin, if you feel you need to adjust the bicep, follow this tutorial.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for the pajamas.
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut out the bodice front and back, front and back legs and a sleeve. Label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen. To save fabric use the shorts cut line.
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Buttons or Snaps – approximately 1 inch / 25mm wide x5
- TIP – If you don’t have somewhere local, you may find it most cost effective to search on Amazon or eBay for a good bulk button deal.
- 1-inch-wide Elastic for all sizes – approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Iron on interfacing – light to medium weight, depending on your fabric choice. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Readymade piping – 3mm wide. Approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. If you are using 100% cotton piping remember to prewash it along with your fabric as it can shrink.
- ½ inch wide Single Fold Bias Tape – Approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. This will be used for binding the back of the neck.
- Thread to match
- Front Bodice – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Bodice – Cut 1 on fold
- Front Facing – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Collar – Cut 2, Interfacing Cut 1
- OPTIONAL Chest Pocket – Cut 1
- Sleeve – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Pants Pockets – Cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)
Project OverviewFamily PJs
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These loose fitting button-down pjs are perfect for the whole family. Mix and match tops and bottoms with short and long length options. Add an optional pocket to the top or to the bottoms. With optional piping around the collar and center front edge, you really can create multiple looks for everyone.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Top
Chest
Waist
Hem circumference
Center back length
Bicep
Short Sleeves
Long Sleeves
Shoulder to hem
Cuff opening
Shoulder to hem
Cuff opening
XXS
37.0
35.5
39.0
25.0
13.3
8.0
12.5
21.6
10.7
XS
39.0
37.5
40.7
25.0
14.1
8.3
13.2
22.0
11.0
S
40.5
38.7
41.7
25.2
15.0
8.5
14.0
22.2
11.5
M
42.5
40.7
43.6
25.5
15.7
8.7
14.6
22.5
12.0
L
44.5
42.6
46.0
25.6
16.5
9.0
15.5
23.0
12.3
XL
47.5
45.6
48.5
26.0
17.2
9.1
16.1
23.2
12.6
2XL
50.5
49.5
51.6
26.7
18.1
9.3
16.7
23.5
13.0
3XL
54.0
53.3
55.5
27.0
19.0
9.5
17.4
23.7
13.5
4XL
57.0
57.0
59.5
28.0
20.0
9.6
18.0
24.0
14.0
5XL
60.0
61.0
63.4
28.1
20.6
10.0
18.7
24.1
14.3
Pants
Elasticated Waist
Hips
Thigh circumference
Front rise
Back rise
Shorts
Pants
Inseam
Hem circumference
Inseam
Hem circumference
XXS
22.0
38.0
24.6
10.2
14.0
5.7
23.0
29.6
16.2
XS
24.0
40.0
26.0
10.5
14.3
5.7
24.0
29.6
17.2
S
25.0
42.0
26.7
10.7
14.6
5.7
25.0
29.6
18.2
M
27.0
44.0
28.0
11.2
15.0
5.7
26.0
29.6
19.2
L
29.0
46.0
29.5
11.5
15.3
5.7
27.0
29.6
20.6
XL
31.0
49.0
31.3
12.0
16.0
5.7
28.6
29.6
22.1
2XL
34.0
52.0
33.3
12.5
16.2
5.7
30.3
29.6
23.7
3XL
37.0
55.0
35.6
13.0
16.5
5.7
32.5
29.6
25.2
4XL
41.0
58.0
38.0
13.5
17.0
5.7
34.5
29.6
26.6
5XL
45.0
61.0
40.3
14.0
17.3
5.7
36.5
29.6
28.2
Fitting NotesFitting Notes:
The Family PJs are loose fitting in the Top and Pants for a super comfy wear.
Materials and ToolsThe pajamas have been drafted for woven fabrics. Light to medium weight cottons, linen, silk, or satin are good choices for warmer weather. For cooler weather try cotton flannel, brushed cotton, or fleece.
Fabric Estimates 45 inch / 115cm wide fabric (in YARDS)
Short Sleeve
Long Sleeve
Shorts
Pants
XXS
1.75
2.00
1.50
2.50
XS – S
2.00
2.25
1.50
2.50
M
2.00
2.50
1.50
2.75
L – XXL
2.25
2.50
1.50
2.75
3XL
2.25
2.75
1.50
3.00
4XL – 5XL
1.75
2.00
1.50
2.50
Fabric Estimates 60 inch / 150cm wide fabric (in YARDS)
Short Sleeve
Long Sleeve
Shorts
Pants
XXS
1.75
1.75
1.00
1.50
XS
1.75
1.75
1.00
2.50
S – M
1.75
1.75
1.50
2.75
L – XXL
2.00
2.00
1.50
2.75
3XL
2.25
2.50
1.50
2.75
4XL – 5XL
2.25
2.75
1.50
3.00
You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, optional piping/zipper/invisible zipper foot, scissors, optional pinking shears, tape measure, and ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Bodice Short Sleeves Long Sleeves XXS – XL 2-3, 10-11, 13-14, 21-22, 24-25, 32-33, 43-46, 50-52 35-37, 47-49 35-37, 47-49, 55-57 XXL 2-3, 10-11, 13-14, 21-22, 24-25, 32-34, 43-46, 50-52 35-37, 47-49 35-37, 47-49, 55-57 3XL – 5XL 2-3, 10-11, 13-15, 21-26, 32-34, 43-46, 50-52 35-37, 47-49 35-37, 47-49, 55-57 OPTIONAL Chest pocket Shorts Pants OPTIONAL Pants pocket XXS – XS 12 5-9, 15-20 5-9, 15-20, 26-31, 38-41, 50-53 4 S – L 12 5-9, 15-20, 29-31 5-9, 15-20, 26-31, 38-41, 50-53 4 XL – 4XL 12 5-9, 15-20, 29-31 5-9, 15-20, 26-31, 38-41, 50-54 4 5XL 12 5-10, 15-20, 29-31 5-9, 15-20, 26-31, 38-41, 50-54 4 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Bodice Short Sleeves Long Sleeves XXS 2-3, 10-15, 22-23, 25-27, 34-35, 37, 49-51 26-28, 38-40 26-28, 38-40, 46-48 XS – S 2-3, 10-15, 22-23, 25-27, 34-37, 49-51 26-28, 38-40 26-28, 38-40, 46-48 M – XL 2-3, 10-15, 22-27, 34-37, 49-51 26-28, 38-40 26-28, 38-40, 46-48 XXL 2-3, 10-15, 22-28, 34-37, 49-51 26-28, 38-40 26-28, 38-40, 46-48 3XL – 5XL 2-3, 10-16, 22-28, 34-37, 49-51 26-28, 38-40 26-28, 38-40, 46-48 OPTIONAL Chest pocket Shorts Pants OPTIONAL Pants pocket XXS – XS 7 5-6, 8-9, 16-21 5-6, 8-9, 16-21, 29-33, 41-44, 51-52 4 S – L 7 5-6, 8-9, 16-21 5-6, 8-9, 16-21, 29-33, 41-44, 51-53 4 XL 7 5-6, 8-9, 16-21 5-6, 8-9, 16-21, 28-33, 41-44, 51-53 4 XXL – 3XL 7 5-6, 8-9, 16-21, 31-33 5-6, 8-9, 16-21, 28-33, 41-44, 51-53 4 4XL – 5XL 7 5-6, 8-9, 16-21, 31-33 5-6, 8-9, 16-21, 28-33, 41-44, 49-53 4 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Chest pocket
(Cut 1)1-inch Wide waist elastic (Cut 1)
Width
Length
Length
XXS
4.6
5.1
23.0
XS
4.6
5.1
25.0
S
4.6
5.1
27.0
M
4.6
5.1
29.0
L
4.6
5.1
32.0
XL
4.6
5.1
35.0
XXL
4.6
5.1
38.2
3XL
4.6
5.1
41.2
4XL
4.6
5.1
44.4
5XL
4.6
5.1
47.4
Cutting Checklist:NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g., the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to fabric.
- INTERFACING – Trim ⅜ inch inner edge of Front Facing interfacing. Iron onto Front Facing and one Collar.
- STAYSTICH – Staystitch the armscye and necklines on the Front and Back.
- SHOULDER SEAMS – Stitch shoulders with a French seam.
- OPTIONAL PIPED COLLAR – Baste piping to outer curved edge. Stitch Collar pieces right sides together. Clip curves, trim seam allowance, turn Collar and press. Skip to Step 4.
- OPTIONAL PLAIN COLLAR – Stitch Collar pieces right sides together. Clip curves, trim, turn and press.
- ATTACHING THE COLLAR – Baste the Collar and Back Bodice right sides together.
- FRONT FACING – Fold raw edge of Front Facing in by ⅛ inch, press. Fold again ⅛ inch, press, topstitch. OPTIONAL PIPING – Lift end of Collar, align piping raw edges to Bodice, pin. Baste piping, clip piping fabric at the curve. Stitch Facing to Front Bodice. Repeat for the other side. Fold the straight edge of the Front Facing over ¼ inch twice, pin. Repeat for other Front Facing.
- NECK BINDING – Cut bias tape to cover the back neckline. Press one side open, stitch to neckline, clip seam allowance, fold bias over raw seam, stitch to Back Bodice. Cover ends of bias with folded edge of Front Facing, pin folded edge of Front Facing to shoulder seam. ‘Stitch in the ditch’ to stitch Front Facing to Bodice. Repeat for other side.
- OPTIONAL CHEST POCKET – Fold the top and bottom of the Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side, press. Fold top to right side ½ inch, press, pin. Stitch ½ inch seam allowance on each side of the top stopping at the folded edge. Clip into seam allowance ¼ inch, fold sides to wrong side, press. Trim and clip seam allowance. Fold bottom and side ¼ inch, press. Turn top of the Pocket, press. Topstitch. Topstitch Pocket to Bodice.
- BODICE SIDE SEAMS – Stitch side seams with a French seam.
- SLEEVES – Stitch Sleeve side seams with a French seam.
- HEMMING THE TOP – Fold Sleeve hem ¼ inch to wrong side and press. Repeat and topstitch. Repeat for the other Sleeve. Turn bottom of Front Facing wrong side out laying it against the Bodice, right sides together, pin. Stitch ½ inch from the edge. Clip the long side of the seam ¼ inch from the edge. Fold the hemline up where the clip was made, press. Fold edge of hem in again, press, pin. Turn corners of Front Facings out. Repeat for other side.
- FASTENINGS – Stitch buttonholes and buttons per pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL PANTS POCKETS – Stitch the Pockets to Front and Back Leg pieces with a French seam.
- LEG SIDE SEAMS – Stitch side seams together using a French seam, if adding Pockets, stitch Pockets with a French seam. Repeat for second leg.
- INSEAM – Stitch the inseam using a French seam.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Stitch the Front and Back rise using a French seam.
- WAISTBAND – Fold raw edge of waist over to wrong side ¼ inch, press. Fold 1.1 inch, press and pin. Stitch ⅛ inch from inside edge of the fold, leave an gap. Insert elastic, overlap and stitch. Stitch gap closed.
- HEMMING THE PANTS – Fold the hem wrong side ¼ inch, press. Repeat and topstitch. Repeat for the other pant leg.
- If you are doing the Pockets, place a mirrored pair on the front side seams and the other pair on the back seams, with right sides together and lining up where the marking on the pattern piece indicates. Use a ½ inch seam allowance to serge a Pocket piece to each front and back side seam. Check that you have the mirrored pattern pieces matching when you put the Fronts and Backs together. Place the Front and Back Pants pieces together, serging down each side seam and pivoting around the Pockets using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- If you are not doing the Pockets, place the Front and Back right sides together and serge down each side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Topstitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Trim ⅜ inch off the side of the Front Facing interfacing pieces, which is not attached to the Front Bodice. This is the side without the notch.
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron the interfacing onto both Front Facing pieces and one Collar.
The interfacing is important as it will give structure to the front of the garment and prevent the buttons or snaps from pulling or tearing the fabric when undoing them.
TIP – Use a pressing cloth between the fabric and the iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or a scrap of 100% cotton will also work.
0.3Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. Otherwise, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the Collar won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.
Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting as you sew the rest of the garment. Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch each armscye from shoulder seam to underarm on the front and back, and the front and back necklines in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Shoulder Seams1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge shoulder seams, right sides together, using ½ inch seam allowance. Press seam allowance to the front. Then skip to step 2 for a Collar with piping or skip to step 3 for a plain Collar.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the shoulder seams together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so that you can follow along.
1.1Place the Front Bodice onto the Back Bodice, wrong sides together, matching the raw edges at the shoulder. Pin.
1.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
1.4Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
1.5Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).
1.6Open the Bodice and press the seam toward the Front Bodice.
1.7Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for the other shoulder seam.
2 . OPTIONAL Piped Collar2.0If you are not adding optional piping to your Collar skip to step 3. If you are adding optional piping to your Collar, follow below.
Piping is cotton cording wrapped in bias tape. This enables the piping to curve around the seams. Adding piping to a seam is a beautiful way to finish the seams and add some interesting detail.
2.1Lay the interfaced Collar piece right side up. Pin the piping around the outer curved edge of the Collar, matching up the raw edges, leaving about 1-inch extra piping at either end. You are attaching the piping to the top edge.
2.2Using a piping/zipper foot, baste the piping to the Collar within the seam allowance, but not close to the cord. You will be covering these basting stitches in step 2.4.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
TIP – Once you have basted the piping, clip into the curves of the piping fabric only. This will help the Collar pieces sit flat, making it easier to stitch.
2.3Place the Collar pieces right sides together, sandwiching the piping between the two pieces. Pin.
2.4Using the piping/zipper foot, stitch together. You will need to get the needle as close to the piping cord as you can, without sewing over it. Push the piping cord right up against the edge of the presser foot as you stitch.
TIP – Turn the Collar right side out. Check to see that the basting stitches and piping tape are not visible. If they are not visible, remove the basting stitches. If you can still see the tape, try stitching again closer to the piping cord.
2.5Clip into the curves. Be very careful not to clip through the stitching.
2.6Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
2.7Turn the Collar right side out, smoothing out the curves so that the piping is centered at the seam.
Press the Collar well. The piping needs to sit perfectly in the seam allowance.
Skip to step 4.
3 . OPTIONAL Plain Collar3.0If you have added optional piping to your Collar skip to step 4. If you are sewing the plain Collar, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch the seam with a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn the Collar right side out, smoothing out the curve so that the seam centered on at the fold. Press.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
3.1Place the two Collar pieces right side together. Pin around the outer curved edge. This is the side without notches.
3.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.3Clip into the curves. Be very careful not to clip through the stitching.
3.4Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
3.5Turn the Collar right side out, smoothing out the curve so that the seam centered on at the fold. Press.
4 . Attaching the Collar4.0NOTE – The images shown in this step are the piped Collar, but the steps are the same.
4.1Fold the Collar in half to find the center, marking the raw edge with a pin.
Find the center of the Back Bodice at the neckline and mark with a pin.
4.2Place the Collar onto the Back Bodice, right sides together, matching the centers and raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – The interfaced Collar will be at the bottom.
4.3Pin each end of the Collar at the notch marking on both sides of the Front Bodice.
4.4Continue pinning the Collar to the neckline, matching up the raw edges, and easing it along the seam allowance.
NOTE – The Collar has a straight edge, while the Bodice has a curved neckline. You need to ease and pin at the seam allowance in order for it to fit correctly.
4.5Wrong side facing up, pin the shoulder seams flat and facing the front.
This is important for when the Front Facing pieces are attached.
4.6Baste together, stopping ⅜ inch from the end of the Collar.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
5 . Front Facing5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Stitch the inside edge (the edge with the interfacing trimmed off) of the two Front Facing pieces, from the shoulder seam to the bottom straight edge. Then skip to step 5.3 if you are adding OPTIONAL piping, or skip to step 5.4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
5.1Fold the inside edge of the Front Facing over by ¼ inch. Press.
NOTE – This is the edge with the interfacing trimmed off.
Fold again by ¼ inch. Press.
Pin in place.
5.2Topstitch ⅛ of an inch to make sure all the raw edges are enclosed.
If you would like to add OPTIONAL piping to the Front Facing, follow below. If you would prefer to leave it out, skip to step 5.4.
5.3OPTIONAL PIPING – Lift up the end of the Collar at the piping edge and place the end of another strip of piping underneath. The two ends of the piping should overlap at the ½ inch seam allowance and have at least a ½ inch overhang.
With the raw edges of the Bodice and piping together, pin the piping down the edge of the Front Bodice stopping at the hem.
Using a piping/zipper foot, baste the piping, starting within the seam allowance of the Collar, down where the two pieces of piping cross over each other, all the way down to the hem.
TIP – Once you have basted the piping, clip into the curves of the piping fabric only. This will help the Front Facing piece sit flat, making it easier to stitch.
5.4Lay the Front Facing piece on top of the Front Bodice piece right sides together, matching the markings. The Front Facing will overlap the Collar. Pin.
5.5With wrong sides facing up, make a mark, within the seam allowance, ⅛ inch from the shoulder seam, on the front of the bodice. This is where you will start stitching the Front Facing from.
5.6Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – If you have added optional piping, use a piping/zipper foot and stitch as close the piping cord as you can.
5.7Trim off the excess piping at the Collar.
5.8Fold the straight raw edge of the Front Facing over ¼ inch and press. Fold again ¼ inch and press. Pin.
NOTE – Do not pin the Front Facing to the Collar.
5.9Clip into the curve of the Front Facing, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
5.10Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.9 for the other side.
6 . Neck Binding6.1You will be binding the raw edge of the neck using single fold bias binding.
Cut a piece of single fold bias tape long enough to cover the back neckline with 1 inch overlapping each end of the Front Facing.
Press one side of the bias tape open.
6.2Pin the open side of the bias tape to the raw edge of the neckline, overlapping the Front Facings by 1 inch on each side.
6.3Stitch in the fold of the bias tape.
NOTE – You will be stitching through multiple layers. Go slowly and carefully, checking you have stitched through all layers and pieces correctly.
6.4Clip into the seam allowance. Be very careful not to clip through the stitching.
6.5Starting at one end of the Front Facing, trim the seam allowance approximately in half, through to the other Front Facing.
6.6Flip your Front Facings right side out, pushing out the curves.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
6.7Flip the Front Facing up and fold the bias tape flat, covering the raw seam.
Starting where the Front Facing meets the bias tape, stitch all along the neckline, close to the edge of the bias tape, ending at the other Front Facing.
6.8Flip the folded edge of the Front Facing over the end of the bias tape. Pin.
6.9Pin the folded edge of the Front Facing to the shoulder seam making sure the edge of the Front Facing overlaps the shoulder seam by at least ⅛ inch.
Transfer the pin to the RIGHT side putting it in the same place.
6.10‘Stitch in the ditch’ to secure the Front Facing to the Bodice. This is where the stitching goes exactly on top of a previous seam, just catching the other side of the Front Facing in the stitching and which encloses the raw edges. The stitching is not easily visible in the finished garment.
With right side facing up, stitch from the Collar, along the shoulder seam, to the end of the Front Facing.
Stitch slowly and hold the Bodice and Front Facing flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Bodice. Occasionally, lift the Bodice up to check that the stitching is catching the other side of the Front Facing.
TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction over the Front Facing. This usually ends up fairly invisible.
When you turn it over the Front Facing should be stitched down, matching the shoulder seam stitching.
6.11Repeat steps 6.8 to 6.10 for the other Front Facing. This will finish off the raw edges of the neckline.
7 . OPTIONAL Chest Pocket7.1Fold the top of the Chest Pocket piece ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
7.2Fold the bottom edge of the Chest Pocket piece ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
7.3With right sides facing up, fold the top edge ½ inch to the right side. Press.
7.4Pin at the sides.
7.5Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance, stopping right at the end of the folded edge from step 7.1.
7.6With wrong sides facing up, clip in between the two layers ¼ inch down from the top edge. You are cutting horizontally to the stitching. Be careful not to clip into the stitching.
7.7Take the side and fold it over by ½ inch. Press.
7.8Trim the seam allowance from step 7.7 approximately in half.
Carefully clip the corner without cutting the stitches.
Repeat steps 7.5 to 7.8 for the other side.
7.9Fold the bottom over by ¼ inch. Press.
Fold each side over by ¼ inch. Press. This will hide the raw edges and create a memory hem on the corners and folds.
7.10Turn the top edge inside out. The top of the Chest Pocket will not have any visible edges. Pin in place again and press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
7.11Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge.
7.12Lay the Bodice right sides facing up. Place the Chest Pocket at the pattern marking, right sides facing up.
Pin on each side and at the bottom.
TIP – Check the Pocket placement is as you would like it, before stitching it down in the next step.
7.13Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edges along the sides, the bottom and up the other side.
TIP – Backstitch at the top of the Pocket, pivoting the needle at the corners.
TIP – Add bar tacks at the top on each side to secure it. You can do this by using a zigzag stich with a length of 0.5mm and a width of 0.3mm.
NOTE – Keep the Front Facing out the way so that it does not get caught in the stitching.
8 . Bodice Side Seams8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the side seams, right sides together, using ½ inch seam allowance. Press seam allowance to the back. Then skip to step 9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.
8.1You are going to stitch the Front to the Back along the side seam using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
8.2Repeat step 8.1 for the other side seam.
Press the side seams flat toward the Back Bodice on the inside.
9 . Sleeves9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – OPTIONAL: Serge the Sleeve hem to finish the raw edges, then fold under by ½ inch and press to create a memory hem. Pin the Sleeve side seams, right sides together. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Insert Sleeve into Bodice with right sides together and pin. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for other Sleeve. Skip to step 10.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.
9.1Stitch the long straight edges of the Sleeve together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
9.2Mark the center of the Sleeve with a pin.
Mark the center of the armscye with a pin.
NOTE – The center is not exactly at the shoulder seam.
NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the front piece.
9.3With wrong sides together, insert the Sleeve into the Bodice, matching up the center points. Pin.
Match the Sleeve seam to the Bodice side seam. Pin.
9.4Continue pinning the Sleeve to the Bodice all the way around matching the raw edges.
9.5Use a French seam to attach the Sleeve to the Bodice, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
9.6Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.5 for the other Sleeve.
10 . Hemming the Top10.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem edge of the Sleeves without cutting any seam allowance off. Turn the hem over to the wrong side ½ inch and pin. Then skip to step 10.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Follow below.
10.1Turn the Sleeve hem ¼ inch toward the wrong side and press.
10.2Turn under another ¼ inch and press again. The raw edges will now be enclosed.
Pin in place.
10.3With right sides facing out, topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 for the other Sleeve.
10.4With the Bodice right side facing up, flip the Front Facing over the Bodice so wrong sides are facing up.
Pin the Facing at the hem line.
10.5Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance across the Front Facing.
10.6With wrong sides facing up, clip in between the two layers ¼ inch away from the Front Facing seam. You are cutting vertically to the stitching. Be careful not to clip into the stitching.
10.7Fold the hem up to the ½ inch to the stitch line from step 10.5. Press.
10.8Trim the seam allowance from step 10.5 approximately in half.
Carefully clip the corner without cutting the stitches.
10.9Fold the hem over ¼ inch to enclose the raw edge. Press and pin in place.
Repeat steps 10.4 to 10.6 for the other side.
10.10Flip the Front Facings over to the wrong side of the Bodice pushing out the corners. Pin.
10.11With right sides facing out, topstitch close to the folded edge. Backstitch at each end stopping ⅛ inch from the edge.
11 . Fastenings11.1Sew buttonholes on the Front Bodice, using the markings you previously transferred. Or add snaps to the pattern markings down the front edge.
NOTE – If you are sewing your pajamas for a Man/Boy, buttonholes are usually on the left side (with buttons the right). If you are sewing for a Lady/Girl, the buttonholes will be on the right side (with buttons on the left).
TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!
TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty, switch to a matching color or use a contrasting color in a regular weight.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop from ripping through the other side of your buttonhole.
11.2Attach buttons to the opposite Front, using the markings you previously transferred.
TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure it is going to line up. If needed, move any buttons to better line up with your buttonholes.
TIP – When sewing flat buttons on pajamas, I like to use 3 threads of embroidery floss.
Do not stitch the buttons too close to the garment but instead leave enough space for the overlap layer. To do so, you will need to build a shank out of thread.
To make the shank, sew your buttons with a toothpick over it. Once you are done sewing the button, remove the toothpick. This will automatically loosen up your button. Pull gently on the button to the end of your stitches to transfer all extra space under the button.
Wrap your threads around the loops underneath the button a few times.
Finish by sewing a few small stitches to the wrong side the of fabric at the base of the shank.
Your pajama top is finished!
12 . OPTIONAL Pants Pockets12.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If adding Pockets, place a Back Leg piece right side up, lay a Pocket piece with right sides together, at the side seam of the leg, matching up the straight edges with the top of the Pocket right at the mark from the pattern piece. The curve of the Pocket should be going downward. Serge the Pocket in place using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other 3 leg pieces. Before stitching, make sure to check that you have mirrored the Pattern pieces when the fronts and backs are placed together. Then skip to step 13.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.
12.1Place one Pocket piece wrong sides together along the Back Leg side seam, aligning the top of the Pocket with the Pocket marking on the pattern piece. Pin.
12.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
12.3Trim the seam allowance of the Pocket in half, then turn, matching right sides together. Press.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
12.4Snip the folded seam allowance at the top and bottom of the Pocket so the fabric lays flat.
Open the Pocket out and press the seam allowance towards the Pocket.
Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.4 with the other Pocket piece to the Back Leg and the 2 mirror Pocket pieces to both Front Legs.
When you attach your pockets to the Front Pants piece, check the alignment of the Pocket against the Back by holding the Front and Back Leg pieces together. The front Pocket needs to match up on the side seam with where you placed the back Pocket.
13 . Legs Side Seams13.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION –
Then skip to step 14.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – We will be using French seams here again for the side seams. Follow below.
13.1Place the Front and Back Leg wrong sides together, matching the side seams and Pockets if you have added them.
13.2POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and around the Pocket edge with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
When you reach the join between the Pocket and the pants, place your needle down, lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric. Then, place your presser foot back down and continue. This will give a neat, sharp corner.
NO POCKETS OPTION – Stitch each side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
13.3POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance. Clip into the corners where the Pocket meets the pants. Again, clip close to the seam but not all the way in (approximately ⅛ inch away).
TIP – For maximum control, use the very point of your scissors when you clip into the corners where the pocket meets the pants. It is harder to control the blade further down and easy to accidentally cut past the seam allowance. If you use the tip, you can do several small snips and get them exactly where you want them.
Make a clip into the seam of the leg right above and right below each edge of the Pockets. Clip right to the stitching, but DO NOT cut into it.
Trim the seams in half going from the top of the legs around the Pockets and down each leg.
NO POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance.
13.4Turn inside out, matching right sides together, and press.
POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and Pocket again with ¼ inch seam allowance.
Turn right side out. Press Pockets towards the front.
NO POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seams again with ¼ inch seam allowance.
Turn right side out.
13.5POCKETS OPTION – Open the Pant leg and press the Pockets towards the front.
NO POCKETS OPTION – Open the Pant leg and press the side seam to the back.
Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.5 for the other Front and Back Legs.
14 . Inseam14.0NOTE – The images shown include the optional Pants Pockets, however the steps are the same with or without.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edges of the sides of the Pant leg. With right sides facing sew together at the inseams using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other Pant leg. Then, skip to step 15.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.
14.1Stitch the inseam of the Pant leg together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Repeat for the other Pant leg.
15 . Front and Back Rise15.0NOTE – The images shown include the optional Pants Pockets, however the steps are the same with or without.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Slide one pant leg inside the other right sides together. Match up the inseams and all raw edges at the waist. Pin. Serge the seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to one side. Skip to step 16.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.
15.1Turn one leg right side out.
15.2Slide the other leg into the leg that is right sides out. The legs are now wrong sides together.
15.3Align the inseams and the waist raw edges. Pin the legs together along the rise.
TIP – Lay the sewn seams in opposite directions, butting them together. This will help reduce bulk at the inseam.
15.4Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
15.5Clip into the seam allowance. Be careful not to clip into the stitching.
15.6Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
15.7Turn the pant legs so they are right sides out. Press the seam to one side.
15.8Take one pant leg and push it back inside the other, this time right sides together.
Press so that the stitching is at the center of the fold.
Pin.
NOTE – Check that the French seam at the top of the inseam is lying flat.
15.9Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
15.10Open the pants leg wrong sides out. Press the seam to one side.
16 . Waistband16.0NOTE – The images shown include the optional Pants Pockets, however the steps are the same with or without.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the top edge of the waist trimming off ⅛ inch seam allowance. Fold the edge over to the wrong side 1 inch and pin. Then skip to step 16.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Follow below.
16.1With the Pants wrong side facing out, fold the top edge of the waist over by ½ inch. Press.
16.2Fold over again 1.1 inch. Press and pin.
16.3Starting at the back of the pants, stitch ⅛ inch away from the inside edge of the fold. Leave an opening at the back seam to insert the elastic.
16.4Insert the elastic through the gap left in step 16.3 and pull it through the waistband.
TIP – Pin the opposite end of elastic to the pants while threading it through the waistband so it doesn’t get pulled inside.
FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their waist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their waist and will hold up the pants, before continuing to the next step.
16.5Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the waistband.
Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
16.6Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic.
16.7Pull the elastic inside the Waistband. Stitch the gap closed.
OPTIONAL – You can add a piece of ribbon into the seam to help identify the back of the Pants. Fold the ribbon in half and insert the raw edges into the gap at the back seam. Pin in place, sandwiching it in the seam. Stitch over the ribbon when you close the gap.
17 . Hemming the Pants17.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem edge of the legs without cutting any seam allowance off. Fold the edge over to the wrong side ½ inch and pin. Then skip to step 17.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Follow below.
17.1Turn the Pants hem ¼ inch toward the wrong side and press.
17.2Turn under the hem another ¼ inch and press again. The raw edges will now be enclosed.
Pin in place.
17.3With right sides facing out, topstitch close to the folded edge.
17.4Repeat steps 17.1 to 17.3 for the other Pant leg.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Family PJs are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpfamilypjs.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewFamily PJs
Difficulty Level = Beginner
These loose fitting button-down pjs are perfect for the whole family. Mix and match tops and bottoms with short and long length options. Add an optional pocket to the top or to the bottoms. With optional piping around the collar and center front edge, you really can create multiple looks for everyone.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Top
Chest
Waist
Hem circumference
Center back length
Bicep
Short Sleeves
Long Sleeves
Shoulder to hem
Cuff opening
Shoulder to hem
Cuff opening
XXS
37.0
35.5
39.0
25.0
13.3
8.0
12.5
21.6
10.7
XS
39.0
37.5
40.7
25.0
14.1
8.3
13.2
22.0
11.0
S
40.5
38.7
41.7
25.2
15.0
8.5
14.0
22.2
11.5
M
42.5
40.7
43.6
25.5
15.7
8.7
14.6
22.5
12.0
L
44.5
42.6
46.0
25.6
16.5
9.0
15.5
23.0
12.3
XL
47.5
45.6
48.5
26.0
17.2
9.1
16.1
23.2
12.6
2XL
50.5
49.5
51.6
26.7
18.1
9.3
16.7
23.5
13.0
3XL
54.0
53.3
55.5
27.0
19.0
9.5
17.4
23.7
13.5
4XL
57.0
57.0
59.5
28.0
20.0
9.6
18.0
24.0
14.0
5XL
60.0
61.0
63.4
28.1
20.6
10.0
18.7
24.1
14.3
Pants
Elasticated Waist
Hips
Thigh circumference
Front rise
Back rise
Shorts
Pants
Inseam
Hem circumference
Inseam
Hem circumference
XXS
22.0
38.0
24.6
10.2
14.0
5.7
23.0
29.6
16.2
XS
24.0
40.0
26.0
10.5
14.3
5.7
24.0
29.6
17.2
S
25.0
42.0
26.7
10.7
14.6
5.7
25.0
29.6
18.2
M
27.0
44.0
28.0
11.2
15.0
5.7
26.0
29.6
19.2
L
29.0
46.0
29.5
11.5
15.3
5.7
27.0
29.6
20.6
XL
31.0
49.0
31.3
12.0
16.0
5.7
28.6
29.6
22.1
2XL
34.0
52.0
33.3
12.5
16.2
5.7
30.3
29.6
23.7
3XL
37.0
55.0
35.6
13.0
16.5
5.7
32.5
29.6
25.2
4XL
41.0
58.0
38.0
13.5
17.0
5.7
34.5
29.6
26.6
5XL
45.0
61.0
40.3
14.0
17.3
5.7
36.5
29.6
28.2
Materials and ToolsThe pajamas have been drafted for woven fabrics. Light to medium weight cottons, linen, silk, or satin are good choices for warmer weather. For cooler weather try cotton flannel, brushed cotton, or fleece.
Fabric Estimates 45 inch / 115cm wide fabric (in YARDS)
Short Sleeve
Long Sleeve
Shorts
Pants
XXS
1.75
2.00
1.50
2.50
XS – S
2.00
2.25
1.50
2.50
M
2.00
2.50
1.50
2.75
L – XXL
2.25
2.50
1.50
2.75
3XL
2.25
2.75
1.50
3.00
4XL – 5XL
1.75
2.00
1.50
2.50
Fabric Estimates 60 inch / 150cm wide fabric (in YARDS)
Short Sleeve
Long Sleeve
Shorts
Pants
XXS
1.75
1.75
1.00
1.50
XS
1.75
1.75
1.00
2.50
S – M
1.75
1.75
1.50
2.75
L – XXL
2.00
2.00
1.50
2.75
3XL
2.25
2.50
1.50
2.75
4XL – 5XL
2.25
2.75
1.50
3.00
You will also need:
- Buttons or Snaps – approximately 1 inch / 25mm wide x5
- TIP – If you don’t have somewhere local, you may find it most cost effective to search on Amazon or eBay for a good bulk button deal.
- 1-inch-wide Elastic for all sizes – approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Iron on interfacing – light to medium weight, depending on your fabric choice. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Readymade piping – 3mm wide. Approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. If you are using 100% cotton piping remember to prewash it along with your fabric as it can shrink.
- ½ inch wide Single Fold Bias Tape – Approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. This will be used for binding the back of the neck.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, optional piping/zipper/invisible zipper foot, scissors, optional pinking shears, tape measure, and ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.