Women's Frill Dress & Top

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and labels to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Zipper End

Mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker where the zipper will end on the Center Back Skirt seam. NOTE – There are different zipper markings for the Top and Skirt lengths.

Stay stitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the waist panels won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Stay stitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stay stitch the Center Front Skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching out towards each side seam, in the direction of the arrows.

NOTE – These steps are the same for all lengths.

Stay stitch the Center Back Skirt pieces at the waist following the direction of the arrows.

Stay stitch a Side Front and Back Skirt pair at the waist following the direction of the arrows. 

Repeat for the other pair.

Skip to step 3 if you are not adding interlining to your Bodice, otherwise follow below. This step is the same for the bodice with or without modesty panels.

Interlining is a sturdy fabric that is constructed of compactly woven herringbone twill. It is used to provide structure and support in garments such as ball gowns and corsets.

Place the Lining Back Waistband and the Interlining Back Waistband, wrong sides together. Pin.

Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 for the Front Waistband and each Center Bust, Side Bust, Side Back and Center Back Bodice pieces.

NOTE – It is not necessary to add Interlining to the optional Modesty Panels (Center Front Panel and Side Panels).

NOTE – A rolled hem can be used in place of the regular hemming method. You will need to use a rolled hem foot on a sewing machine, or a serger.  Then, skip to step 3.4.

Fold the curved edge of the Frill ¼ inch to the wrong side. Pin and press.

TIP – Serge the edge of the Frill, or stitch gathering stitches along the curve. This will make it easier to fold the ¼ inch along the curved edge.

Fold another ¼ inch to the wrong side. Pin and press.

Topstitch close to the folded edge. 

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the straight edge of the Frill. 

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 with the other five Frill pieces.

Fold one short edge of the Frill Separator ¼ inch to the wrong side, Pin and press.

Fold another ¼ inch to the wrong side. Pin and press.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.7 on the other side of the Frill Separator.

Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.7 for the other three Frill Separators. 

Find and mark the quarter points on all Frill and Frill Separator pieces.

Place a Frill Separator onto the gathered edge of the Frill right sides facing, matching quarter points. Pin. 

Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Frill.

Gather all the way across the quarter you are working on until the Frill is the same length as that quarter of Frill Separator.

Gently spread out the Frill so that it is evenly gathered.

Continue gathering the Frill along each quarter of Frill Separator.

Stitch in between the two lines of gathering with a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the thread so that they come all the way through the fabric. Find the thread from the underside of the fabric and pull it out too.

Flip the Frill Separator right side facing up. 

Place a second Frill onto the raw edge of the Frill Separator, with the right side of the Frill facing up. Pin.

Repeat steps 3.8 to 3.9 to gather and stitch the Frill to the Frill Separator.

Lay a second Frill Separator right side down onto the second Frill, sandwiching the second Frill. 

Repeat steps 3.8 to 3.9 to gather and stitch the Frill to the Frill Separator.

Flip the Frill pieces right sides up. Press.

Place a third Frill onto the raw edge of the Frill Separator, right side facing up.

Repeat step 3.9 to 3.10 to gather and stitch the Frill to the Frill Separator.

You will need to finish the raw edges where the Frills are stitched to the Frill Separators. 

NOTE – You can start on any of the three seams. The last seam (sewn in step 3.14) does not need to be finished as this will be enclosed when you attach the lining.

You can do this by serging or stitching using a zigzag stitch. If you wish to do either of these, do this now. Then skip to step 4.

Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind the seams using bias tape as follows:

Open out the fold on both sides of your bias tape. Fold both short edges of the bias tape to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. 

Place the bias tape right side down onto the wrong side of the Frill, matching the fold of the bias tape to the seam. Pin.

Stitch along the fold on the bias tape. Your stitching should be directly on top of the Frill seam allowance. 

Trim the seam approximately in half.

Fold the bias tape over the seam allowance enclosing the raw edges. Pin.

This is called ‘stitching in the ditch’, where the stitching is done exactly on top of a previous seam. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment and will just catch the other side of the binding in the stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden.

With the right side of the Frill Panel right side up, start at the LEFT side and stitch along the seam where the binding meets the Frill Separator. 

Stitch slowly and hold the binding and Frill Separator fabric flat to help get the stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Frill Panel. Lift up the Frill Panel occasionally and check that the other side of the Binding is caught in the stitching.

Repeat steps 3.8 to 3.19 to create the second Frill Panel.

NOTE – This step is the same for both Bodice OPTIONS.

NOTE – We are showing how to assemble the Bodice without OPTIONAL Interlining, however, the steps are the same with or without interlining.

Place the Main Center Bust and Center Back Bodice right sides together at the shoulder seams. Pin. 

NOTE – Check that you are matching the correct Center Bust to the correct Center Back Bodice piece.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – If you have added Interlining, you may find the shoulder seam is a bit bulky. Trim the seam allowance of the shoulder seam to help it to lay flat and reduce bulk.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 with the Main Side Back Bodice and Main Side Bust pieces.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 with the Center Bust, Center Back Bust, Side Bust and Side Back Bodice Lining pieces.

Place the Center Bust Lining onto the Side Bust Lining right sides together, at the center seam, easing along at the curve. Pin. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears (as shown) to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

Press the seam allowance open.

TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam. A tailor’s ham is a pressing tool that helps smooth out curves. You can also use a rolled up towel to help smooth out the curves.

NOTE – You will now treat this as one Bodice Lining piece.

Lay the Main Center Bust piece right side up. Place the Frill Panel right side down matching the raw edge of the Frill Separator onto the raw edge of the Main Center Bust. Pin.

NOTE – Both ends of the Frill Panel will be ½ inch shorter than the Main Center Bust.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

NOTE – Check that you have not caught any of the outer edges of the Frills from the Frill Panel in the seam.

Place the Main Side Bodice right side down matching the center seam, sandwiching the Frill Panel. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Check that you have not caught any of the outer edges of the Frills from the Frill Panel in the seam.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

TIP – The seam may be bulky, especially if you have added Interlining. Trim the seam allowance to help it to lay flat and reduce bulk.

Press the seam allowance open.

TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam. A tailor’s ham is a pressing tool that helps smooth out curves. You can also use a rolled up towel to help smooth out the curves.

NOTE – This will now be called the Main Bodice.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.15 for the other side of the Bodice.  

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Back Ties, continue below.

If you are sewing the Bodice with OPTIONAL Modesty Panels, skip to step 6. 

If you are sewing the Plunge neckline, skip to step 5.

Fold a Back Tie in half lengthways, right sides together.  Pin.

Stitch along the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. 

Press the seam allowance open.  

Center the seam and align the raw edges of one short end.  

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance and turn right sides out.  

Press flat.

TIP – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.

Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.

Align the short raw edge of the Back Tie onto the Back Bodice 2 inches down from the shoulder seam, right sides together, as desired. Pin.

NOTE – Check the Back Bodice piece against the model for Back Tie placement. It should be placed in the middle of the shoulder blades to achieve the look as photographed. Or place them as desired.

NOTE – You are attaching the Back Tie at a horizontal position with it pointing in toward the side edge, not the center edge.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Repeat steps 4.16 to 4.23 for the second Back Tie. 

If you are sewing the Bodice with OPTIONAL Modesty Panels, skip to step 6. 

If you are sewing the Plunge neckline, continue to step 5.

NOTE – The steps are the same with or without optional interlining.

Place a matching Main Bodice and Bodice Lining right sides together, matching the neckline. Pin.

NOTE – Check that the Frills are out of the way. 

NOTE – Both ends of the Frill Panel will be ½ inch shorter than the Main Center Bust.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk. 

Press the seam allowance open.

Understitch the seam allowance to the Lining.

NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Lining and Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice. See the next step for what this looks like finished.

You are going to use a burrito roll method to enclose the Main and Lining. Roll the Frill toward the bust seam. 

Place the Main and Lining right sides together at the armscye seams, keeping the Bodice and Frill rolled up inside. 

Pin the Main and Lining together, being careful to keep the Frills out of the seam.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears (as shown) to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

Reach into the Bodice and pull the rolled-up part out, then continue pulling until the Bodice is right side out. 

Press.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.10 for the other side of the Bodice.

If you are not adding OPTIONAL bust cups skip to step 7.  If you are adding OPTIONAL bust cups, follow below.

OPTIONAL BUST CUPS: Place the Bodice right sides facing up and insert a bust cup into the Bodice. Check the position of the bust cup. Pin to the Lining/Interlining.

Hand stitch it to the seam allowance at the top and bottom of the cup, and at each end to the Lining/Interlining.

NOTE – The photographs show a slightly different Bodice, however the process is the same.

Repeat step 5.11 for the other side of the Bodice.

Skip to step 7.

NOTE – The steps are the same with or without optional interlining.

Fold the Center Panel in half, wrong sides together, matching the two shorter edges. Pin.

Baste all the way around the raw edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Pin the Center Panel to the Center Bust, right sides together, matching the folded edge of the Center Panel to the pattern marking on the Center Bust. Continue pinning along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The bottom edges will not match to the Center Panel waist edge.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining right sides together, matching the neckline edge. Pin.

NOTE – The Center Panel will now be sandwiched between the Main and Lining Bodice pieces.

NOTE – Check that the Frills are out of the way.

NOTE – Both ends of the Frill Panel will be ½ inch shorter than the Main Center Bust.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears (as shown) to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

Open the Main and Lining so they are lying flat. Press the seam allowance towards the Lining.

Understitch the seam allowance to the Lining.

NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Lining and Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice. See the next step for what this looks like finished.

Flip the Lining over the Main Bodice, wrong sides together. Press.

Repeat steps 6.3 to 6.10 attaching the other side of the Center Panel to the opposite Main and Lining Bodice pieces.

Your Main and Lining Bodice pieces will now be joined together by the Center Panel and along the neckline.

If you are not adding OPTIONAL bust cups skip to step 6.13. If you are adding OPTIONAL bust cups, follow below.

OPTIONAL BUST CUPS: Place the Bodice right sides facing up and insert the bust cup into the Bodice. Check the position of the bust cup. Pin to the Lining/Interlining.

Hand stitch it to the seam allowance at the top and bottom of the cup, and at each end to the Lining/Interlining.

Repeat for the other cup.

NOTE – The photographs show a slightly different Bodice, however the process is the same.

Repeat step 6.1 to 6.2 with a Side Panel.

Pin the Side Panel to the Main Side Bust, right sides together, matching the folded edge of the Side Panel to the pattern marking on the Side Bust. Continue pinning along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The bottom edges will not match to the Side Panel waist edge.

NOTE – You will be pinning the Side Panel to the main Side Bust. Do not pin it to the Lining/Interlining layer.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 6.13 to 6.15 to attach the other Side Panel to the other side of the Bodice.

You are going to use a burrito roll method to enclose the Main and Lining. Move one side of the Bodice out of the way as best you can. Roll the Frill toward the bust seam. 

Mark approximately 1-2 inches above where the Side Panel will attach to the Main Side Back Bodice.

Place the Main and Lining right sides together at the armscye seams, keeping the Bodice and Frill rolled up inside. Pin up to where you’ve marked.

NOTE – Do not pin the Main and Lining together below the marking. This will allow you to attach the Side Panel to the Side Back Bodice. 

NOTE – Check the Frill is out of the way and facing toward the middle of the Bodice. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Alternatively, use pinking shears (as shown) to trim the seam allowance. This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.

Reach into the Bodice and pull the rolled-up part out, then continue pulling until the Bodice is right side out. 

Press. 

Repeat steps 6.17 to 6.20 on the other side of the Bodice.

Open the unstitched part of the Bodice at the armscye. 

Place the Main Side Panel onto the Main Side Back Bodice right sides together. Pin up to the stitched seam from 6.21.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Take the Side Back Bodice Lining and flip it over the 

Main Side Back Bodice, right sides together, matching the armscyes. Pin up to the stitched seam from 6.21.

NOTE – The last image shows the other side, to show you what it will look like from the Lining side.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn the Back Bodice right side out. Press.

Topstitch along the armscye using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Repeat steps 6.22 to 6.28 on the other side of the Bodice.

This step is the same for either Bodice OPTION.

Place a Main Back Waistband onto the Main Front Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Check that you are attaching the Front and Back Waistband pieces the correct way. Both are labelled top and bottom. As the pieces are not quite rectangular in shape it is important to make sure you have them oriented correctly when stitching them together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open. 

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 to attach the other Main Back Waistband to the other side of the Main Front Waistband.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 to attach the Back and Front Waistband Lining pieces.

Place the Bodice onto the Main Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Check that everything is lined up correctly. The Waistband side seams will match up the Bodice side seams, or with the points on the Side Panels (if added). There will be a ½ inch of waistband left on each side of the bodice leaving room for the zipper to be attached. 

NOTE – Neither the Frills nor Frill Separator should be attached to the Waistband. 

Baste using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Typically when basting, a smaller seam allowance would be used. Using a ½ inch seam allowance at this step will help ensure the seams points are lined up precisely. Using a basting stitch here means you can remove the stitches later if visible. 

Place the Waistband Lining onto the Bodice, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Bodice will be sandwiched in between the main and lining Waistbands.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – You will be stitching on top of the basting stitches from step 7.7. 

NOTE – If you added modesty panels, this stitch line needs to be exactly at the ½ inch seam allowance in order to intersect your modesty panels and create the exact V shape.

Flip the Waistband down so that it is right side out and press the seam.

Pull out any visible basting stitches. 

NOTE – The Skirt steps are the same for the top, three-quarter or maxi length.

The skirt is made up of seven pieces. Starting at the back, the order of the panels is: Center Back Skirt, Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Side Back Skirt, and then Center Back Skirt.

NOTE – You may notice that the Skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as it is sewn to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that the hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching the seam, lay the skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Centre Back Skirt and Side Back Skirt together. Pin down the side seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Side Back Skirt, and then Center Back Skirt. Press all seams to the side. Leave the Centre Back open. Then skip to step 9.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt pieces together. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Place a Center Back Skirt onto a Side Back Skirt, wrong sides together (right sides outwards). Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to a Side Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.  

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 to attach a Center Front Skirt to the Side Front Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to the Center Front Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to a Side Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 to attach a Side Back Skirt to the Center Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

NOTE – The Center Back Skirt pieces are not sewn together until after the zipper is installed.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the Skirt from center back seam to center back seam.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

NOTE – The Skirt steps are the same for the top, three-quarter or maxi length.

Place the bottom edge of the main Waistband onto the top edge of the Skirt, right sides together. Match the side seams of the Waistband to the seam between the Side Front Skirt and Side Back Skirt. 

Gently pull on both bobbin threads to gather the Skirt, until the Skirt matches up with the Waistband.

Spread the gathered stitches out gently with your fingers so that it is evenly gathered.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the gathering threads.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out.

Fold the Waistband lining ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Wrong sides facing up, fold the Waistband lining down onto the Skirt. 

Make sure that the raw edges of the Skirt are facing up towards the Waistband. This will ensure they are all caught inside when you pin the Waistband lining.

Pin.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Waistband lining to the Skirt. The Waistband lining will be folded under ½ inch, with the stitching along the folded edge.

Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the Waistband to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Repeat steps 9.5 to 9.6 to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.

To end off, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.

Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.

Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the waistband so that the tail is now hidden inside. 

NOTE – The Skirt steps are the same for the top, three-quarter or maxi lengths.

FIT CHECK – We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the bodice.

• If you measure at the top of your size range, the dress should fit exactly. 
• If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the back seam before continuing. 
• We recommend trying the dress on now and pinning the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. 
• If it fits as you wish, continue. 
• If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge both back edges of the Center Back Skirts. Do not remove any seam allowance, just serge to finish. Then continue with step 10.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zipper. If you use a regular zipper, or don’t install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished bodice will be too big. To help with this, we’ve made a short video. 

Read through the steps below, then watch the video here. Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.

Unzip the invisible zipper. Place it teeth face down onto your ironing board. 

When the zipper is closed, the teeth of the zipper will curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew. 

I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat. 

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zip a little to make it easier to attach.

Press the ½ inch seam allowance along each raw edge of the Waistband and Skirt.

Unfold the seam allowance. With the dress right side up, place the zipper with the teeth side down onto the dress.

Line the zipper teeth up with the folded seam allowance so that the zipper stop is lined up with the top of the Waistband seam. Pin the left side of the zipper to the dress.

TIP – Take a moment to check that the zipper and dress are placed right sides together and that the zipper is on the correct side of the dress.

TIP – Add Wonder Under Tape to the zipper instead of using pins. This will help hold it in place.

Shorten the zipper if necessary, to match the recommended zipper length. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop it from opening below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zipper to the other. 

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – Line up the zipper teeth on the left side groove of the foot. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down. 

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – Stitch the zipper to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down.

Close the zipper and place a pin on the right zipper tape where the bottom of the stitching is. This pin will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when the right side of the dress is sewn. 

Repeat steps 10.3 to 10.4 with the right side of the zipper tape on the right side of the dress.

It may feel awkward, but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards.

Fold the top of the zipper down on each side and hand stitch in place.

TIP – If the zipper is longer than needed, hand sew around the zipper to make a new zipper stop. Then trim the zipper down to the length needed.

TIP – Check your zipper can close correctly before continuing onto the next step.

Fold the seam allowance on the side of the zipper under itself so the raw edge is hidden, pin and press.

This is a very narrow section of seam allowance, so this can be a bit tricky. If you have them, pin using dressmakers pins or glass head pins (not plastic head pins). That way you can press with the pins in place to make it easier. Make sure to put a pressing cloth or clean tea towel over the pins before pressing so they don’t mark your iron.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, as close to the folded edges as possible. 

Repeat steps 10.7 to 10.8 for the other side of the zipper.

NOTE – The Skirt steps are the same for the top, three-quarter or maxi lengths.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, finish the raw edges of the Skirt centre back seam, without taking any seam allowance off. Place the Skirt right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back to close the skirt under the zipper. Then, skip to your preferred hem step. NOTE – We do not recommend adding horsehair braid to the top length.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do a French seam to stitch the Skirt together below the zipper. It’s slightly different from the previous French seam as the seam allowance below the zipper must be detached. Follow along below.

Clip into each side of the seam allowance, just below where the zipper stitching ends. 

TIP – Clip as close to the stitching and fold as possible without cutting into it. Aim for approximately ⅛ inch / 1-2 mm below the stitching and snip approximately ⅛ inch / 1-2 mm away from the fold. If the snip is too far, there will be a hole under the zipper, so err on the side of caution. If the seam isn’t lying flat, it can be snipped more. 

Place the wrong sides of the skirt together and bring the seam allowance to the right side of the Skirt. Pin them together making sure the wrong sides are together and the right sides are facing outwards. 

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – The seams are trimmed here so that when they are encased in the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the Skirt wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so the edges can’t be seen (a French seam). 

TIP – Start stitching as close to the bottom of the zipper stitching as possible. The goal is to make the seam look continuous from the zipper to the hem when the garment is being worn. A zipper foot will allow the stitches to get really close to the bottom of the zipper. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge along the bottom edge.  Do not remove any fabric.  Press 1 inch to the wrong side.  Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Your Frill Dress & Top is now finished!

Adding horsehair braid will add structure to your hemline. If you are not adding optional horsehair braid and would prefer a blind stitch hem, skip to step 14.

NOTE – We do not recommend adding horsehair braid to the Frill Top, only to the skirt lengths.

Lay the Skirt right sides facing up. Match the horsehair braid edge to the raw edge of the Skirt.

Pin in place.

Topstitch along the bottom raw edge as close to the edge of the horsehair as possible.

Fold the hem by the width of the horsehair braid over to the wrong side. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the edge of the fabric.

Your Frill Dress & Top is now finished!

As your hem will be almost invisible, this hemming option will give your dress a professional finish. A blind hem can be sewn by hand, or by machine, if your machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot. Follow below to stitch by machine.

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Fold the hem under the fabric (towards the right side), so that just ¼ inch of the hem is showing. Pin.

Slide the fabric under the foot with the folded edge resting against the inside edge of the right side of the foot. 

With the blind hem stitch selected, start stitching, keeping the fold in line with the inside edge of the foot.

NOTE – Line up the hem, so when the needle moves to the left, it is able to just catch a thread or two of the skirt fabric.  

TIP – This stitch is best done with thread that matches the fabric very closely, with a fresh, sharp needle. It is very helpful to practice this technique on scrap fabric before attempting it on your gorgeous skirt.

Your Frill Dress & Top is now finished!