Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

If you are doing any or all of the decorations, follow the steps in this section. If you are not decorating your table tent, skip to section B.

The instructions show how to assemble the tent decorations as per the cover photo. There are pattern placement markings on the Wall pattern pieces. However, once you have prepared the Tent Wall pattern pieces for your table size, you can mix and match any of the decorations to put them on any of the exterior or interior walls as desired.

TIP – If you plan to move the decorations around, check that they will fit where you want them. A good way to do this is to lay out your Tent Wall pieces, then place the paper pattern piece decorations and details onto them. You can move them about and decide what you want where, and what fabrics/colors you prefer where.

NOTE – If you are placing the decorations as desired and not as per the pattern markings, remember that each Wall has a ½ inch seam allowance. You will need to add your decorations leaving adequate seam allowance.

OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing

If you are using fusible webbing, follow below.  If you are using fabric glue, apply as per the manufacturer’s instructions and skip to step 1. If you are only stitching, skip to step 1.

Trace the pattern pieces for all the decorations you are using onto the backing of your iron-on interfacing. Make sure to write what each piece is on the paper side of the interfacing.

NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored).

NOTE – The pictures depicts different pattern pieces than this pattern. The construction is the same for the Gingerbread House Table Tent.

Cut roughly around the fusible webbing for each pattern piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the fusible webbing has been attached to the fabric.

Group the fusible webbing pieces into colors (e.g. put all of the oranges together, all of the greens together, and so on).

Keeping pieces grouped by color, apply the fusible webbing to your fabric pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using fusible webbing.

Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.

TIP – Group the pieces by Wall piece so that all the decorations for each Sides/Front/Back and Interior/Exterior pieces are together.

NOTE

From here the instructions for the rest of this section are grouped by Tent Wall piece. Mix and match to create the look you want, adding any additional decorations or creativity you want to!

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

TIP – You will find the instructions run through all of the decorations & details pictured on the cover photo for that section of the Tent. If you are doing only some of the decorations & details, look for the bold headings, then skip to the headings for the bits you are doing only.

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Roof Trim – Draw the ½ inch seam allowance stitch lines onto the wrong side of the Roof Trim Lining piece using either a disappearing fabric marker or tailors chalk.

TIP – If you are confident with stitching curves and points you might not need to transfer the full stitch lines, but instead just the points at which you turn the needle.

Place the Main Roof Trim and Lining right sides together.

Place the Roof Trim onto your sewing machine with the Lining facing upwards. Stitch along the marked ½ inch seam allowance.

When you get to the peak of the curve (where the curve gets to a point), place the needle all the way down, lift the presser foot, then turn the fabric so the next curve is now lined up in front of you, put the presser foot down again and continue to sew.

NOTE – If sewing a round table, stitch down a short edge, along the marked ½ inch seam allowance and up the second short edge.

At the bottom of each point where the curves meet, clip the tip of the point off. Make little snips into the seam allowance at the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

If you have pinking shears, trim the seam allowance to approximately ⅓ its width.

If you do not have pinking shears, trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Then create notches by snipping small triangles into the seam allowance at approximately every 1 inch. The triangles will help reduce bulk. The point should get close to the seam line but not touch it (aim for approximately ⅛ inch away).

Turn the Roof Trim right sides out. They will still look very messy. This is ok.

Get a blunt object such as a knitting needle or point turner and push the seam allowance all the way out. The seam line should run exactly along the edge. Make sure there are no folds of fabric.

Press.

OPTIONAL – If you are likely to need to wash your Tent in future, topstitch approximately ⅛ inch away from the seam edge, this will keep the curves and points neat and in place.

OPTIONAL – If adding buttons to hang Christmas lights or garland on, use the curved and pointed edges as references for button placement. Attach the buttons at the bottom of the roof trim.

Lay the Exterior Front Wall right side up. Place the Roof Trim on top right side up, matching raw edges. Pin.

NOTE – The raw edges should meet at the sides as well. If they do not, check the measurements of the Wall piece, and make sure you have the correct Roof Trim piece, then center the Roof Trim over the Wall piece horizontally.

Baste the top long edge and two short edges using approximately a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Front Door Window – Lay the Window Frame piece wrong side facing up. Mark the ½ inch seamlines (shown in blue) around each of the panes and the outer edge of the Window Frame.

Snip diagonally in from each corner of the pane to the corner of the seamline.

Fold each side of the inside of the Window Frame along the seam lines towards the wrong side of the fabric and press.

Fold the outside seam allowances to the wrong side of the Window Frame on all four sides. Press.

At the corners, press the fold that ends up on top in a diagonal to hide the raw edges all underneath the Window Frame.

Place the Window Frame piece, wrong side facing up.

Center the Window Pane piece on top of the Window Frame, hiding the outer edges of the Window Pane in the folded seam allowance.

Pin in place.

TIP – Make sure to only place pins where the Window Frame will cover the Window Pane. If you pin on the Window Pane where it won’t be covered, you may leave a visible hole.

Topstitch around the edge of each inside pane of the Window Frame, approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edge.

TIP – Test this on a scrap of fabric first. Some plastics will slip on your machine. If it does, use a presser foot with a rubber or silicone base to help grab it, or a walking foot. Some people find it easier to stitch with the plastic on top, some underneath. Since it is clear you can see through it so do whichever is easiest on your machine.

Lay the Door right side facing up. Place the Window Frame onto the Door right side facing up. Pin.

Topstitch in place using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Door over so it is wrong side up.

Carefully pull the Door fabric away from the Window Frame.

Snip into the Door fabric behind the window, making sure the Window Frame and Window Pane are away from the Door fabric.

Using this hole as a starting point and being careful to keep the Window Frame and Window Pane away from the Door, snip the Door fabric away from the Window Frame, all the way around the Window Frame, approximately ½ inch from your stitch lines (from step 1.18) holding the Window Frame in place.

Door Handle Assembly – Iron/glue/place the red triangles of the peppermint on the white circle door handle

Peel the paper backing off the Door Handle then stitch the decorations on.

Door Handle – Iron/glue/place the Door Handle onto the right side of the Door. Topstitch the Door Handle in place using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Take care not to get the iron near the plastic of the Window Pane (it can melt!).

Interior Door – Repeat steps 1.12 to 1.15 and 1.18 to 1.20 to add the Door Window Frame to the Interior Door.

Once you’ve pinned the Door Window Frame in place, place the two Doors right sides together. Check that the Window Frames are lined up in exactly the same spot on the Interior and Exterior Doors. Then continue to sew it on and snip the Interior Door fabric away under the Window Frame.

NOTE – There is no Window Pane piece for the Interior Door. Once you fold the fabric under, you will not be sewing the inside of the Window Frame yet.

NOTE – The pictures show a Window with a Window Pane, the construction is the same without a Window Pane.

Repeat step 1.21 to 1.22 to make the Interior Door Handle and to attach the Door Handle to the Interior Door.

TIP – The interior Door Handle should go on the left side of the door.

Door Assembly – Place the Interior and Exterior Doors right sides together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Start stitching along the bottom edge of the door. Continue stitching up one long side, around the top of the Door, down the other long side, and finish on the bottom edge of the door. Leave a 5 inch gap at the bottom of the door for turning.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

If you have pinking shears, trim the seam allowance to approximately ⅓ its length.

If you do not have pinking shears, trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Fold the gap in the fabric ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. This will create a memory hem.

Continue pressing the seam allowance along the bottom of the door.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press the hem. This will make it easier to topstitch the door in step 1.31.

Turn the door right side out, pushing the corners out and press.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners

Topstitch along the outside edges using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Place the Door with the Exterior side up. Stitch over your lines from step 1.17 (the rectangles inside the Window Frame).

Make sure it catches the edge of the Window Frame from the Interior side of the door. This should now hide all raw edges.

Windows – Repeat steps 1.12 to 1.20 to attach the Window Frames and Window Panes to the Exterior Front Wall piece.

Trim the Wall fabric out from behind the Window Frame in the same way we did for the Door Window Frame.

Shutters – Place the Main and Lining Shutter pieces right sides together. Pin.

Stitch all the way around the Shutter using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Do not leave any gaps.

Either use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance, or trim with regular scissors.

Pull the Main and Lining away from each other and make a small snip on the Lining side. Carefully extend this to approximately a 1-2 inch gap.

Turn right sides out through this gap, making sure the corners are all the way out. Press.

Place the Shutters right side up onto the pattern markings on the Exterior Front Wall. Pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Letterbox Post – We will use the same technique as the Shutters (and for most other Decorations as we go through the sew).

Place the Letterbox Post main fabric and lining fabric right sides together. Stitch all the way around using a ½ inch seam allowance, not leaving any gaps.

Trim and notch with regular scissors, or trim with pinking shears.

Pull the fabric and lining away from each other and make a small snip on the lining side. Carefully extend this to approximately a 1-2 inch gap.

Turn right sides out through this gap and press, making sure the curves are all the way out.

Place the Letterbox Post right side up onto the Exterior Front Wall.

Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Place the gumdrops temporarily over the Letterbox Post while you are deciding where it will go to check you have covered the base of the post.

Gum Drops – Place 3 Gum Drops onto each side along the bottom edge, place ½ inch from the side and bottom of the raw edges. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Letterbox – Place the Letterbox onto the Exterior Front. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

OPTIONAL – Add a button to the top of the Letterbox to resemble a knob/pull. This can be done either before or after attaching the Letterbox to the wall. If done before ensuring, there is sufficient space to allow for the ⅛ inch seam allowance. Additionally, if using fusible webbing be careful not to get the iron too close to the button as it could melt.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the top edge of the Letterbox Flap using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Place the Letterbox Flap on the bottom half of the Letterbox to create a pocket for letters to Santa.

Topstitch along both side edges and bottom edge using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Add interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket so it won’t stretch when used.

Mailbox Flag – Iron/glue/place and then topstitch to secure.

Candy Canes – Repeat steps 1.40 to 1.42 to stitch and attach the Candy Canes on either side of the door.

TIP – Place the door in the center of the Exterior Front Wall to help guide with the placement of the Candy Canes. Candy canes should be close to the door but not touching. Approximately ½ inch of space will suffice.

Gingerbread Man – Repeat steps 1.40 to 1.42 to stitch, turn, and press the Gingerbread man.

Lay the rickrack onto the front of the arms and legs of the Gingerbread Man. Pin.

Wrap the rickrack around to the back of the arms and legs. Pin.

Stitch rickrack in place.

Attach buttons down the middle of the Gingerbread Man as well as two buttons for the eyes.

Lay ribbon or cording, in the shape of a smile onto the Gingerbread Man. Pin.

Stitch the ribbon or cording on, using a needle and matching thread.

Place the Gingerbread Man onto the Exterior Front Wall. Iron/glue/place and then topstitch to secure using ⅛ inch inseam.

Your Exterior Front Wall is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Window – Repeat steps 1.12 to 1.20 to finish and attach the Window Pane to the Window Frame, and the Window Frame to the Exterior Back Wall piece.

NOTE – The Roof Trim will overlap the Window Frame. Before stitching the Window Frame in place, move the Roof Trim and pin out of the way.

Shutters – Repeat steps 1.33 to 1.38 to finish and attach the Shutters to the Exterior Side Wall.

Gumdrops – Place 8 Gumdrops along the bottom edge, place one inch from the side and bottom of the raw edges. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

NOTE – There is a ½ inch seam allowance included.

Snowmen – Place loop tape (furry) onto the Snowmen as desired. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Snowmen on the wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Snowmen Arms – Using brown loop tape create Snowman Arms to desired size.

Stitch loop tape Snowmen Arms to the Exterior Back Wall.

Snowman Decoration – Glue or sew hook tape (scratchy) to each of the Snowman decorations. Decorate the Snowman decorations as desired.

TIP – Make sure the hook tape on the decorations line up with the correct placement of the loop tape on the snowmen by placing the decorations on top of the Snowmen to check placement.

Snowman Face – OPTIONAL – Due to the small size of the Coal and Carrot pieces, we recommend using stiff interfacing on the back of these pieces.

Glue or sew hook tape onto the back of each piece of the coal and carrot nose.

TIP – If you have coal and carrots specific to each snowman you can color code the hook tape to make it easy to identify. Here we used three different colors that match each of our snowmen.

Roof Trim – Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.11 to finish and attach the Roof Trim to the top of the Exterior Back Wall piece.

Your Exterior Back is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Window – Repeat steps 1.12 to 1.20 to finish and attach the Window Pane to the Window Frame, and the Window Frame to the Exterior Side Wall piece.

Shutters – Repeat steps 1.33 to 1.38 to finish and attach the Shutters to the Exterior Side Wall.

Gumdrops – Place 4 Gumdrops along the bottom edge, place one inch from the side and bottom raw edges. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

NOTE – There is a ½ inch seam allowance included.

Sleigh – Place the Sleigh Base and Sleigh onto the Exterior Side Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Roof Trim – Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.11 to finish and attach the Roof Trim to the top of the Exterior Side Wall piece.

Your Exterior Side / Sleigh Wall is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Chimney – Place Main and Lining Chimney fabric together. Sew along both long sides on the chimney using a ½ inch seam allowance. Do not sew the top or bottom of the chimney.

Either use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance, or trim with regular scissors then make notches into the curved sections.

Turn right side out through the top or bottom and press, making sure the curves are all the way out.

Place and pin the Chimney right side up onto the Exterior Side Wall, using the pattern markings. Pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Gumdrops -Place 4 Gumdrops along the bottom edge, place one inch from the side and bottom of the raw edges. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

NOTE – There is a ½ inch seam allowance included.

Roof Trim – Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.11 to finish and attach the Roof Trim to the top of the Exterior Side Wall piece.

Your Exterior Side / Chimney is finished!

NOTE – There will be a space for the Front Door in the middle of this Front side of the Tent, but we will not cut it in this step. Leave this space and we will cut the Door in a later step.

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Windows – For both Window Frames, follow steps 1.12 to 1.20 to prepare the Window Frames.

NOTE – There is no Window Pane for the Interior as this Window Frame will attach to the back of the Window Frame from the Exterior Front Wall.

Attach both Window Frames to the Interior Front wall using a ⅛ inch seam allowance around the outside of the window.

NOTE – You will not sew around each window pane or cut out the fabric behind the window until the end of the project during the assembly process.

TIP – Once you’ve pinned the Window Frames in place, place the Exterior Front Wall right sides together with this Interior Front Wall and check to make sure you’ve lined the Window Frames up in exactly the same spot on the Interior Wall as on the Exterior Wall. Then continue to sew them on.

Curtains – Place Interior and Exterior Curtain fabrics right sides together. Stitch along the long sides and bottom of the curtains using a ½ inch seam allowance. Do not stitch the top of the curtain.

Snip the corners to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

If you have pinking shears, trim the seam allowance to approximately ⅓ its length.

If you do not have pinking shears, trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn right side out and press.

Topstitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance around all edges of the curtain, including the exposed raw edge.

Fold the exposed raw edge over ½ inch toward the interior fabric and press.

Fold the corners of the ½ fold in toward the interior fabric and press.

Fold the top of the curtain again an additional 1 inch and press.

NOTE – There should be no visible raw edges.

OPTIONAL – Adding buttons to the curtain will allow the length of the curtains to be adjusted. Here we have used buttons that are 1 inch in diameter and used small elastic bands to suspend the buttons from one another. We attached 4 buttons before installing the curtain, 4.5 inches from the top of the curtain and another 4.5 inches from the first button. Each row of buttons are placed approximately 2 inches from the edge of the curtain.

Lay the Interior Front / Kitchen Wall right side facing up. Place the Curtain right side facing up directly above the window. The curtain should be centered left to right on the window and the rectangular piece at the top of the window should sit directly above the window.

Topstitch around the exterior curtain fabric in a rectangle using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – The curtain seam should not be touching the window frame but should be very close.

OPTIONAL – Add two more buttons at the top of the curtain on the rectangular piece of exterior fabric, placing each button approximately 2 inches away from the sides of the curtain.

Kitchen Cupboard – Repeat steps 1.33-1.37 to sew, turn, and press the 3 Kitchen Drawers and the Kitchen Cupboard.

Place the three Kitchen Drawers onto one Kitchen Unit. Space the drawers evenly and centered onto the Unit.

There should be a bigger gap on the bottom of the Unit (just like in real life where the unit would have a kickboard underneath).

Topstitch around the outside edge of each of the Kitchen Drawers, using a ⅛ seam allowance.

OPTIONAL – If you are using buttons for handles, stitch these on now. You can use any size button – here we have used buttons that are 1 inch wide.

Add a piece of loop tape to the top of the kitchen counter to be used with hook tape on the cookies. Only sew the bottom edge of the loop tape onto the Kitchen Counter, the remainder of the loop tape will be sewn onto the wall in the next step, when attaching the Kitchen Counter to the wall.

Attach the Kitchen Cupboard to the Interior Front Wall per the pattern markings.

Topstitch around the edges of the Kitchen Counter (including the loop tape Countertop) using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Oven – Repeat steps 1.33-1.37 to sew, turn, and press the Oven Unit, Inside of Oven, and Oven Control Panel.

Place the black felt circles on top of the Oven Control Panel. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure using ⅛ inch seam allowance. Set Aside.

Attach two long pieces of loop tape along the width of the Inside of the Oven to be used as shelves.

Place Inside of Oven and Oven Control Panel on the Oven Unit. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Place the Oven Control Knobs onto each of the Oven Controls. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Alternatively, stitch on a button instead. You can use any size button – here we have used buttons that are approximately ⅓ inch wide.

Attach the Oven onto the Interior Kitchen Wall using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Cookies – OPTIONAL – Add firm interfacing to the back of Santa’s Cookies.

Glue or sew hook tape onto the interfacing on the back of Santa’s Cookies.

TIP – Instead of using the patterns for the cookies, you can cut cookie shapes out of fabric.

Your Interior Front / Kitchen is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Window – Follow steps 1.12 to 1.17 to prepare the Window Frames.

NOTE – There is no Window Pane for the Interior as this Window Frame will attach to the back of the Window Frame from the Exterior Front Wall.

Attach the Window Frame to the Interior Back wall using a ⅛ inch seam allowance around the outside of the window.

NOTE – You will not sew around each window pane or cut out the fabric behind the window until the end of the project during the assembly process.

TIP – Once you’ve pinned the Window Frames in place, place the Exterior Front Wall right sides together with this Interior Front Wall and check to make sure you’ve lined the Window Frames up in exactly the same spot on the Interior Wall as on the Exterior Wall. Then continue to sew them on.

Curtains – Follow steps 5.4 – 5.11 to make and install the curtain.

Santa’s Boots – OPTIONAL – All of the pieces in the Gingerbread House can be made to be removable. Santa’s Boots are used in this tutorial as an example to make a piece of the home removable with the use of hook and loop tape. If you do not wish to make Santa’s boots removable and wish to attach them directly on the wall you will not need to use interfacing nor follow steps 6.6 and 6.8 to add the hook and loop tape.

Iron/glue/sew interfacing on the backside of Santa’s Boots.

Attach two long pieces of hook tape at the top of both of Santa’s Boots.

OPTIONAL – Iron/glue/sew white trim onto Santa’s boots. Here we used fuzzy white fabric that requires hand stitching. White felt could be used instead or the trim could be left off altogether.

Attach matching loop tape onto the Interior Back Wall.

If you are making Santa’s Boots removable skip step 6.10.

TIP – Place the boots onto the wall to help determine the best placement of the loop tape.

OPTIONAL – Attach Santa’s boot to the Interior Back Wall using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, only if not making the boots removable.

Christmas Tree Trunk – Follow steps 4.2 to 4.4 to make the Christmas Tree Trunk.

Place Tree Trunk onto the Interior Back Wall on the pattern markings. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Christmas Tree Body – Repeat steps 1.33-1.38 to sew, turn, and press the Christmas Tree Body.

OPTIONAL – Add buttons to the Christmas Tree Body to use to hang ornaments from. Hook and loop tape could be used instead of buttons if desired, but the use of buttons also allows the option to use store bought ornaments.

TIP – Sew buttons at least one inch away from the edges of the tree so the buttons do not get in the way when attaching the piece to the wall. If you would like to place buttons along the edge of the tree body this should be done after attaching the tree to the wall.

OPTIONAL – Add loop tape at the top of the Christmas Tree to attach a Tree Topper.

TIP – Use white loop tape to make it look like snow.

Attach the Christmas Tree Body to the Interior Back Wall using an ⅛ inch inseam.

Ornaments – OPTIONAL – If you decided to sew on buttons/hook and loop tape to the tree to allow for interactive decorating and would like to make your own ornaments there are many different ornament patterns provided.

If you used buttons, be sure to provide a loop at the top to hang the ornament from.

Here we used small elastic bands and stitched around the ornament with a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Ribbon and string will also work and could be glued on if desired. You can also add a tree topper if desired.

Tree Topper – OPTIONAL – Glue or sew hook tape onto the back of your Tree Topper.

Here we used a star that will attach to the tree with hook tape on the white snow tip of the Christmas tree.

Presents – Place Presents onto the Interior Back Wall at the pattern markings.

Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

OPTIONAL – If you would like the presents decorated with bows, attach loop tape at the top of each present.

If you would like to use bows to decorate the presents with, hot glue hook tape onto the back of the bows.

Another fun idea to decorate the Presents is to use “to and from tags.”

Here we used some fun fabric that had tags printed on it. If you would like to use fabric to create tags use stiff interfacing and the hook tape. You could also buy store bought tags and hot glue hook tape to them.

Gingerbread Man

Follow steps 1.48-1.52 to sew, turn, press, and attach the Gingerbread Man to the Interior Back / Living Room.

OPTIONAL – The Gingerbread Man’s placement makes it appear that he is climbing on top of the Christmas presents to add an ornament or a topper on the tree. If you would like to make it so that he is able to hold an ornament and/or tree topper you can add a button and/or loop tape to his hand. Here we sewed on a 1 inch button and additionally glued a small piece of loop tape so that he could hold both an ornament and a topper.

Your Interior Back / Living Room is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Back of Fireplace – Place the back of the fireplace on the Interior Side / Fireplace Wall, using the pattern markings. Pin.

Topstitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. The raw edges will be exposed for now but will be covered when adding the fireplace to the wall.

Fireplace – Follow steps 4.2 to 4.4 to make the Fireplace.

Place the Fireplace on top of the Back of Fireplace and topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Mantel – Place the Mantel fabric and lining right sides together. Follow steps 1.33 and 1.38 to create the Mantel.

Place the Mantel at the top of the fireplace, be sure to cover the exposed raw edges. Topstitch along all four sides using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Fire – Place the Fire layers together. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Fire onto the Exterior Front Wall on top of the Back of Fireplace, wrong side down. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Logs – Place Right Log fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch along three of the sides using a ½ seam allowance. The bottom of the Log pieces should be unfinished.

Trim and notch with regular scissors, or trim with pinking shears. Make sure to snip into each point between curves.

Turn the Firewood right sides out and press, making sure the curves are all the way out.

Place the Firewood wrong sides onto the Interior Side Wall covering the bottom of the Fire and stitch in place using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Wreath – Place the Wreath fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch around the outer and inner edges  using a ½ seam allowance.

Trim and notch with regular scissors, or trim with pinking shears.

Pull the fabric and lining away from each other and make a cut on the lining side.

Cut a circle into the lining fabric in the middle of the Wreath to allow for turning. Trim around the circle leaving at least an inch of lining fabric.

Using a blunt object push out all the curves and press.

Place the Wreath wrong sides onto the Interior Side Wall above the Fireplace and stitch in place using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Stocking Hangers – If you would like to hang stockings from the Mantle of the Fireplace, sew large buttons across the mantel. Here we used three buttons that are approximately 2 inches in diameter.

If you would like to make your own stockings follow the steps below. You can also use store bought stockings to hang from the mantel if you prefer.

Stockings – OPTIONAL – It is recommended but not required to add a lightweight interfacing to the lining of the stocking fabric to ensure the felt does not stretch when stuffing the stockings.

Place the lining sides of the Stockings together and sew around the sides using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Leave the top open so that you can stuff the stocking.

Glue or sew on ribbon/string/elastic to hang the stocking from.

Decorate the stocking to your liking. Here we used the same white fuzzy fabric that is on Santa’s Boots to embellish the top of the Stocking.

Your Interior Side / Fireplace is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Window – Follow steps 5.2 and 5.3 to assemble and install the Window.

Curtain – Follow steps 5.4 – 5.11 to assemble and install the Curtain.

Chair Feet – Follow steps 1.33 – 1.38 to sew, turn, press, and stitch on the chair feet.

TIP – Place the Chair Feet at least ½ inch above the bottom edge of the wall to allow for the ½ inch seam allowance during tent assembly.

Chair – Repeat steps 1.33-1.38 to sew, turn, and press the Chair.

Embellish chair with ribbon of choice.

Place chair right side facing up onto the Interior Side Wall being sure to cover the exposed top edges of the Chair Feet. Stitch around the edges of the Chair using ⅛ inch seam allowance or a seam allowance that works with your choice of ribbon.

TIP – A ⅛ inch seam allowance may not work well with the ribbon you used for your chair. Here we used a seam allowance closer to ½ inch to make sure the sewing machine needle cleared the braided ribbon we used. If your ribbon lends well to being sewn through feel free to do so, if not adjust your seam allowance as necessary.

Table – Follow steps 1.39 – 1.40 to sew, turn, and press the three table pieces.

OPTIONAL – Add a line of loop tape to the top of the table. Only sew on the bottom edge of the loop tape as we did with the Kitchen Countertop, the remaining three sides of the loop tape will be secured when sewing the tabletop onto the wall.

Place the Table Leg on the Interior Side Wall, using the pattern markings. Stitch around using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Use the Table Top and the Table Foot to help with placement on the wall. Remember to leave ½ inch at the bottom of the wall for the seam allowance during assembly.

Place the Table Top and the Table Foot onto the Interior Side Wall. Stitch around both using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Your Interior Side / Santa’s Chair is finished!

If you have added decorations, pin any loose decorations onto the Wall to ensure they are out of the way while stitching and constructing.

If sewing a round table, both the Interior and Exterior outer edges of the Tent are already assembled. Skip to step 1.9 to attach to the Roof.

We will be assembling the Exterior of the Tent as per the diagram to the left.

The Interior and Exterior will be assembled in the same way.

To start, Lay the Roof piece right side up.

Place the Exterior Front next to the Roof. The top of the Exterior Front should be next to the long edge of the Roof.

Flip the Exterior Front onto the Roof. Pin.

Stitch the Exterior Front onto the Roof using a ½ inch seam allowance. Start ½ inch from one raw edge and finish ½ inch from the other raw edge (i.e. do not sew the first and last ½ inch of the seam).

Press the seam allowance open.

Unfold the Exterior Front and lay the piece right side facing up. Place the Exterior Back next to the other long side of the Roof, lining up the top of the Exterior Back with the long edge of the Roof.

Flip the Exterior Back onto the Roof, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch the Exterior Back onto the Roof using a ½ inch seam allowance. Again, start ½ an inch from one raw edge and finish ½ inch from the other raw edge.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.5 to attach the Exterior Side / Chimney to the left side of the Roof.

When you reach either edge, keep the fabric from the Front/Back out of the way and leave the first and last ½ inch unstitched.

The Exterior Side / Chimney should be wider than the Roof piece you are now attaching it to by the ½ inch seam allowance either side. Make sure the Exterior Side is centered over the Roof, so it is exactly ½ inch either side that overlaps.

Your stitching should start and end on the Roof piece where the stitching from the Front & Back started and ended. This way you leave these ½ inch pieces loose.

Repeat step 1.6 to attach the Exterior Side / Santa’s Sleigh to the right side of the Roof.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.7 to assemble the Interior to the Roof Lining.

Make sure as you attach your Walls to the Roof that the ones with Window Frames on them match up to the Window Frames on the Exterior.

TIP – Place the Interior & Exterior right sides together to check Window Frame & Door placement before sewing the Interior. Do not just put them side by side, but actually right sides together. That way you know for sure when you stitch them together and turn it through that it’s correct.

Skip to step 2.

OPTIONAL Round Table Construction:

Find and mark the quarter points of the Main Roof and Exterior Wall.

NOTE – The fabric pictured is different from the fabric used in this tutorial and is only used to show the Round Table construction.

Turn the Exterior Wall wrong sides out and pin the Roof piece to the top raw edges of the Exterior Wall with right sides together. You will need to ease the Roof onto the Exterior Wall. Pin.

When you reach either short edge, keep the fabric from the Front/Back out of the way, leaving the first and last ½ inch unstitched.

Clip the seam allowance.

Repeat for the Interior Wall and Roof Lining.

NOTE – If sewing a Round Table, the tent assembly is the same as below.

Lay the Tent Exterior right sides up.

Remove all removable decorations from the Interior and Exterior (e.g. any pieces that are held on by hook & loop tape) and place aside. Pin any other loose decorations out of the way.

Lay the Tent Interior right sides up. Place the Tent Exterior onto the Tent Interior, right sides together, matching the Front Walls.

Pin all the way around the edges. The Tent should now form a large + symbol with the Roof in the center.

There will be a gap where the Front Door was on the Exterior, but the Interior should lay flat over this. Mark the door, then pin up and over the Door Frame, pinning the Interior to the seam allowance above the top of the Door.

Cut away the Door fabric from the Interior Front / Kitchen Wall by trimming it to the same ½ inch seam allowance around the Door frame from the Exterior Front Wall.

Stitch around all edges of the Tent, stitching up and around the Door frame, leaving a large gap for turning on the center back.

Here I have left a gap that’s approximately ½ the width of the Back piece, centered in the middle of the back hem. It’s larger than it ‘needs’ to be, but it makes turning such a large item through easier.

Trim all seam allowances to neaten and clip all corners to reduce bulk.

Snip into each of the L shaped corners on the Door, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

TIP – Take care to snip approximately ¾ of the way into the seam. You can always turn it back through and snip further if you find it isn’t enough for it to sit flat, but you can’t take it back if you make a hole!

NOTE – You shouldn’t need to snip into the L shaped corners in between each side of the Tent near the Roof. The ½ inch seam allowances that you left unstitched when attaching the Walls to the Roof should just fold out of the way, so it lays flat when you turn it through.

Turn the Tent right sides out.

Poke each of the corners out with a blunt object such as a point turner or knitting needle.

Press.

Pin an Interior Window Frame to the Exterior Window Frame.

Stitch around each of the four Window Pane rectangles where the Interior is not finished. The raw edges should now be hidden inside.

Repeat steps 3.7 to 3.8 for all Window Frames.

NOTE – There is one on the Back Wall, one on the Side Wall, and two on the Front Wall.

Door Install – Sew four buttons along the top of the door.

Using the buttons on the door as a guide, add four buttons to the Exterior Front Wall at the top of the Door Frame.

The Door will hang similarly to the curtains and is fully removable. Use your choice of elastic or ribbon to hold the pairs of buttons together.

Either machine or hand stitch the gap you left open at the center back hem for turning.

Skip to step 3 for Button Closure or step 4 for Slipcover.

Add any loose decorations back on, remove any pins or safety pins and enjoy!

Your Gingerbread House Table Tent is finished! Enjoy.

If you would like to secure the corners to make a cozier play time, continue to step 3 for the Button Closure method and step 4 for the Slipcover method.

Add Buttons as desired along the edges of the exterior walls. These buttons will be used the same as the curtains and the door. Here we used two buttons on each side of the exterior walls and 16 total buttons.

TIP – Make sure the buttons are in the same position on each of the touching exterior walls.

If you can, place your Tent onto your table to double check the fit.

From the Exterior, place each of the side openings together. Pin.

NOTE – The tent pictured is not the Gingerbread House and is only used to show the Slipcover Method construction.

Stitch.

You can either use a sewing machine to sew (this will leave a little ridge along the edge, and can be quite bulky), or you can stitch by hand.

If you sew by hand, use your favorite hand sewing method. Here I have used a very small, tight slipstitch, knotting regularly. This kind of small tight stitch can take more pressure if children get a bit too boisterous or lean against the sides.

Your Gingerbread House Table Tent is finished! Enjoy.