Gym Bag

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk. You will need to the mark the Main Bottle Pocket, Bottom Lining for the Clothes Bag, Main Bottom for the Bottle Pocket, Clothes Bag Eyelet.

OPTIONAL Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to the wrong side of the following pieces: Top, Bottom, Front, Back & Tabs.

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Clothes Bag, skip to step 2. If you are adding it, follow below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 1.1 to 1.8. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 1.14.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of your bag. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.

Fold the top raw edge of the Side piece ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Fold the top edge 1 inch to the wrong side, creating a memory hem for the elastic channel. Press.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Side. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when the Side is stitched together.

Using the manufacturer’s instructions install an eyelet at the pattern marking, just under the second pressed line.

Refold the memory hem.

Stitch ⅛ inch from the bottom folded edge, creating a channel.

Thread the elastic cord through the toggle.

NOTE – You will use the full yard of elastic cord, do not cut it.

Using a safety pin, thread one end of your cord through the eyelet to one end of the channel, leaving ½ inch of the cord past the raw edge. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch (or smaller) seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Repeat steps 1.6 to 1.7, threading the other side of the cord through the eyelet to the other side of the channel.

Fold the Side piece in half wrong sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are stitching from the top folded edge, stitching across the channel.

TIP – Stitch several times over the webbing to reinforce the stitching and secure the cord in place.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold. Pin.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Turn right side out and press the seam as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Place the Bottom piece onto the bottom edge of the Side piece right sides together, easing it together.  Pin at the ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Use lots of pins at the corners when easing the pieces together.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn right side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Turn the Clothes Bag right side out. Place the Bottom and Side wrong sides together. Pin.

Place the Clothes Bag onto the right side of the Bottom Lining at the pattern markings. Pin.

Stitch using a wide zigzag approximately ¼ – ⅜ inch from the edge.

Follow step 2 for the OPTIONAL Bottle Pocket, or skip to:

• step 3 – OPTIONAL Shoe Pocket
• step 4 – OPTIONAL Inside Pocket
• step 5 – OPTIONAL Front Pocket
• step 6 – OPTIONAL Back Pocket

step 7 if you are not adding any of these options

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place Main Bottle Pocket and Lining pieces right sides together matching the long straight edge. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Follow steps 2.3 to 2.7. Starting ½ inch away from the mid-divider marking on the center straight section, serge the bottom corner using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then serge the other side of the corner. Repeat on the bottom right side. Press seam to side. Repeat on Lining, pressing seams in opposite direction to Main. Skip to step 2.12.

Place Main Bottle Pocket and Lining pieces right sides together matching the long straight edge. Pin.

NOTE – This is the top edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Measure a piece of elastic the length of the top edge.

Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Main Bottle Pocket at the seam allowance. Pin.

Stitch the elastic, using the biggest zigzag setting or a stretch stitch.

NOTE – If you use elastic the length of the top edge you will fit 2x 1 liter bottles inside. If you have smaller/narrower shaped bottles you can shorten the elastic by ½ – 1 inch, to create smaller pockets.

Flip the pieces over so wrong sides are together. Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch ⅛ inch from the bottom of the elastic, leaving a ½ inch gap at each side.

Starting at the bottom left side, take the bottom two cut outs and place them right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Before pinning the corners check that you have the middle stitch line marking transferred onto the Main Bottle Pocket. If you have not marked it, do so before pinning.

Repeat step 2.6 on the other side.

Starting ½ inch away from the mid-divider marking on the center straight section, stitch the bottom corner using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Then stitch the other side of the corner.

Repeat steps 2.6 to 2.8 on the bottom right side.

Press the seam allowances to the side.

Repeat steps 2.6 to 2.10 with the Bottle Pocket Lining.

TIP – Press the Lining seam allowance in the opposite direction to the Main to reduce bulk.

Push the Lining inside the Main, right sides out, matching the corners.

Fold the Main Bottle Pocket raw edges ½ inch to the wrong side and press, creating a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Pocket. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when stitching it onto the Bottom Lining.

Repeat step 2.13 with the Bottle Pocket Lining.

Trim the corners on the Main and Lining to reduce bulk.

Place the Main and Lining together along the pressed edges. Pin.

Baste the Main and Lining together using a ¼ inch (or smaller) seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Lay the Main Bottom right side facing up. Place the Bottle Pocket onto the pattern markings with the bottom edge facing inwards. Pin along the pattern marking for the mid divider.

TIP – Double check the pocket is facing the right direction.

Topstitch along the mid divider markings.

TIP – Stitch back and forth at the start and end to secure the Bottle Pocket.

Place the sides and bottom of the Bottle Pocket onto the Main Bottom at the pattern markings. Pin.

NOTE – This step is very fiddly. Take your time when pinning and check that you have pinned both the Main and Lining Bottle Pocket to the Main Bottom.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Stitch back and forth at the start and end to secure the Bottle Pocket.

Follow step 3 for the OPTIONAL Shoe Pocket, or skip to:

• step 4 – OPTIONAL Inside Pocket
• step 5 – OPTIONAL Front Pocket
• step 6 – OPTIONAL Back Pocket
• step 7 if you are not adding any of these options

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Body Lining wrong side up. Place the Side Lining down at the pattern markings, wrong sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Take the top right corner of the Body Lining and place it wrong sides together with the side of the Side Lining. Continue pinning the sides together. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat on the other side. Skip to step 3.9.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of your bag. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.

Lay the Body Lining wrong side up. Place the Side Lining down at the pattern markings, wrong sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Take the top right corner of the Body Lining and place it wrong sides together with the side of the Side Lining.

Continue pinning the sides together.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.4 on the other side.

Trim all seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

TIP – Stop at the corners with your needle down to be able to pull out all extra fabric under the foot.

Turn right side out. Press the seam as flat as possible.

NOTE – This will now be called the Shoe Pocket.

Lay the Main Bottom right side up. Place the zipper along the curved edge of the Shoe Pocket opening, right sides together. Pin the ends.

Find the center of the zipper and the curved opening. Match the centers and pin.

Ease the zipper along the curved edge. Pin.

TIP – I recommend using lots of pins to hold the zipper and fabric securely together. You can use clips at the straight parts if you prefer, but pins are more helpful along the curves.

Using a zipper foot on the sewing machine, stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Using a zipper foot on the sewing machine, stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Flip the zipper right side up. Press.

Repeat steps 3.10 to 3.14 to pin the other side of the zipper onto the right side of the Main Shoe Door.

Using a zipper foot on the sewing machine, baste using a ¼ inch or smaller seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Open the zipper.

Place the Shoe Door Lining onto the Main Shoe Door Lining, right sides together, sandwiching the zipper in between. Pin.

Turn right sides out.

Press.

Find and mark the center of the shorter and the longer (opposite side) raw edge of the Shoe Pocket.

Turn the Shoe Pocket wrong side out.

Place the short straight edge of the Main and Lining Shoe Door together. Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Find and mark the center of the Shoe Door straight raw edge and the bottom curved edge of the zipper.

Open the zipper separating the Shoe Door and Main Bottom pieces.

Place the Shoe Door onto the Shoe Pocket, wrong side of Shoe Pocket to right side of Lining, matching the short side center to the straight edge center. Pin.

Place the curved edge of the Main Bottom onto the Shoe Pocket, right side of Main Bottom to wrong side of Shoe Pocket, matching centers, sandwiching the zipper. Pin.

Open the zipper separating the Shoe Door and Main Bottom pieces.

Place the Shoe Door onto the Shoe Pocket, wrong side of Shoe Pocket to right side of Lining, matching the short side center to the straight edge center. Pin.

Place the curved edge of the Main Bottom onto the Shoe Pocket, right side of Main Bottom to wrong side of Shoe Pocket, matching centers, sandwiching the zipper. Pin.

Find and mark the center of the curved edge of the Bottom Lining.

Place the Bottom Lining onto the Shoe Pocket, right sides together, matching centers, sandwiching the Shoe Pocket. Pin.

Turn the Bottom right sides out.

Follow step 4 for the OPTIONAL Inside Pocket, or skip to:

• step 5 – OPTIONAL Front Pocket
• step 6 – OPTIONAL Back Pocket
• step 7 if you are not adding any of these options

Turn the Bottom right sides out.

Follow step 4 for the OPTIONAL Inside Pocket, or skip to:

• step 5 – OPTIONAL Front Pocket
• step 6 – OPTIONAL Back Pocket
• step 7 if you are not adding any of these options

Fold the straight edge of the Inside Pocket Top ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Find and mark the center of the zipper and the Inside Pocket Top.

Lay the zipper right side up. Place the pressed edge of the Inside Pocket Top on top, right sides together, matching centers. Pin.

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Flip the zipper up and press.

Topstitch along the zipper tape, ⅛ inch from the fabric edge.

TIP – If your zipper is longer, trim it to the correct length and stitch a bar tack to close the zipper, as shown here.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.5 to attach the Inside Pocket Bottom to the other side of the zipper.

You are going to use a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.

Fold the Inside Pocket Bottom in half, wrong sides together, meeting the Top and matching the sides. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Slow down when stitching over the zipper so that the zipper foot can stitch over it.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk. Open the zipper for turning out.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. You do not need to press the zipper flat. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

TIP – If your zipper is not very flexible use a large seam allowance – approximately ⅜ inch.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Turn right side out through the zipper opening.

Press the seam as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

NOTE – This will now be called the Inside Pocket.

You can add the Inside Pocket to the Front or Back Lining. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Back Pocket, attach the Inside Pocket to the Front Lining.

Find and mark the center of the Front/Back Lining top edge and the Inside Pocket.

Lay the Front/Back Lining right side up. Place the Inside Pocket down right side facing up, matching centers. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Follow step 5 for the OPTIONAL Front Pocket, or skip to:

• step 6 – OPTIONAL Back Pocket
• step 7 if you are not adding any of these options

If you are not doing the OPTIONAL Front Zipper Pocket, skip to step 6. Otherwise follow below.

Find and mark the center of the zipper and the Main Front Pocket Top.

Lay the Main Front Pocket Top right side up. Place the zipper on top, right sides together, matching centers. There should be ½ inch extra fabric on both sides. Pin.

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

NOTE – If your zipper is longer, trim it to the correct length and stitch a bar tack to close the zipper, as shown here.

Place the Front Pocket Top Lining on top, right side down, sandwiching the zipper. Pin.

They will now be layered in this order: Main facing up, zipper facing down, Lining facing down.

Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Pin the sides together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are only stitching the Main and Lining, not the zipper.

Trim the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn right sides out.

Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch along the zipper tape, ⅛ inch from the fabric edge.

NOTE – Do not topstitch the sides.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 then 5.7 to 5.9 to attach the Main and Lining Front Pocket Bottom to the other side of the zipper.

NOTE – The zipper will be the same length as the Front Pocket Bottom.

NOTE – This will now be called the Front Pocket.

Find and mark the center of the bottom straight edge of the Main Front and the Front Pocket.

Lay Main Front right side up. Place the Front Pocket right side facing up, matching centers. Pin.

Continue pinning top and bottom edges together. Pin the sides of the Front Pocket.

NOTE – If the Front Pocket is a little longer than the Main Front, trim to match the Main Front.

Topstitch the short sides of the Front Pocket Top using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are stitching the Front Pocket to the Main Front.

Baste all raw edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

NOTE – Be careful when you reach the zipper, slow down, so the foot can go over the zipper safely.

Follow step 6 for the OPTIONAL Back Pocket or skip to step 7 if you are not adding the Back Pocket.

If you are not doing the OPTIONAL Back Pocket, skip to step 7. Otherwise follow below.

Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. Place the Back Pocket Rectangle right sides together, at the pattern markings. Pin.

Stitch around the Rectangle.

TIP – When you reach a corner, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the pieces. Lower the presser foot and stitch down the short side.

Draw a line down the center of the rectangle, stopping ½ inch from each end.

Draw a line connecting the end of the straight line to each corner, creating Y shapes at each end of the line.

Draw a line connecting the end of the straight line to each corner, creating Y shapes at each end of the line.

Push the Back Pocket Rectangle through the opening and press until the Back lays smooth and flat. Pin.

OPTIONAL – If you are using a heavy weight or faux leather fabric, topstitch around the Back Pocket Rectangle using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. This will keep the seam allowance in place.

Place the zipper behind the opening created. Pin.

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting while sewing, apply washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

Topstitch around the opening using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Check you have stitched the little triangles at the end of the Bottom Pocket Rectangle when topstitching.

NOTE – Check that the zipper pull is out of the way when stitching.

If needed, trim the zipper tails.

Turn the Main Back wrong side facing up.

Place the Pocket piece right side down matching one short edge to the bottom long edge of the Rectangle. Pin.

NOTE – You are only pinning the Pocket pieces together.

Stitch the pinned edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Only sew the Pocket pieces together. Check you have not caught the Main Back in the stitching

Flip the Pocket down.

Place the bottom short edge onto the top long edge of the Rectangle, right side down. Pin.

Pin the short edges of the Pocket together.

Stitch the pinned edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are only sewing the Pocket pieces together. Check you have not caught the Main Back into the stitching.

OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edges of the Pocket using a serger or zigzag/overlock stitch on a regular machine.

Place the Handle onto the right side of the Main Front at the pattern markings, matching bottom edges. Pin.

NOTE – If you have added the OPTIONAL Front Pocket, the Handle will overlap it by ½ inch.

TIP – Check that the Handle isn’t twisted.

Baste the bottom of the Handle using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Topstitch the long edges and across the width of the Handle, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, stitching as per the pattern markings. Stitch back and forth across the top width of the Handle to secure it.

TIP – Stitch a rectangle across the top of the stitched section of the Handle. Add additional stitches across the rectangle to create an X. This will reinforce the Strap, preventing it from ripping away from the bag

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.4 to attach the second Handle to the Main Back.

NOTE – If you have added the OPTIONAL Back Pocket the sides of the Pocket will be stitched to the Handles. If you prefer your Pocket to be loose in the bag, trim the side seam allowance of the Pocket, or pin it out of the way if your fabric is not too thick.

Lay the Main Top Outer right side up. Place the zipper along the curved edge right sides together. Pin the ends.

Find the center of the zipper and the curved opening. Match the centers and pin.

Clip into the zipper tape along the curve to reduce bulk. These clips should be very small (about ⅛ inch), so they will be invisible from the outside.

Ease the zipper along the curved edge. Pin.

TIP – I recommend using lots of pins to hold the zipper and fabric securely together. You can use clips at the straight parts if you prefer, but pins are more helpful along the curves.

Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Pin Top Outer Lining piece to the curve right sides together with Main.

Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Lining over and press the seam.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.8 to attach the other side of the zipper to the Main Top Inner.

OPTIONAL – Baste Main Top Inner and zipper using a ¼ inch or smaller seam allowance.

Place the Top Inner Lining right side down, sandwiching the zipper. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn it right sides out and press.

NOTE – This will now be called the Main Top.

Place the Main Top Inner and Lining wrong sides together, matching the straight edge. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Shoulder Strap, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Shoulder Strap, skip to step 9.

Fold a Tab in half right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn right side out.

Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch one or both long sides using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Thread the Tab through the D-ring, folding it in half. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.7 on the other Tab.

Place each Tab onto the Main Top Outer at the pattern markings. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – This will now be called the Main Top piece.

Place the short edges of the Main Bottom and Main Top Outer right sides together on the left hand side. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you have added the OPTIONAL Shoe Pocket, SKIP TO STEP 9.4. If you have not added the OPTIONAL Shoe Pocket, follow below.

WITHOUT OPTIONAL SHOE POCKET – Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 stitching the other side of the Main Bottom and Main Top together, creating a circle.

OPTIONAL SHOE POCKET – Place the short edges of the Main Bottom/Shoe Pocket and Main Top Outer and Lining right sides together on the right hand side. Pin.

You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias tape to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” sewing directly along the seam line so that there isn’t any visible stitching.

This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.

Place the Binding onto the Shoe Pocket, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin. Leave a 1-inch tail on either side.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Fold the Binding over the seam allowance, be sure to cover the stitching from step 9.6. Pin.

‘Stitch in the ditch’.

NOTE – Go slowly when stitching as you will be stitching through multiple layers here.

Press the seam up.

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 to stitch the Top and Bottom Lining together at both short edges.

You will now have two circle pieces with stitched side seams.

Find and mark the center of the Main Top and Bottom.

Find and mark the center of the Main Front at the top and bottom edges.

Place the Main Front onto the Main Top and Bottom right sides together, matching the center top edge of the Main Front to the center of the Main Top, and the center bottom edge of the Main Front to the center of the Main Bottom. Pin.

Continue pinning, easing the pieces together at the ½ inch seam allowance, matching the side seams to the pattern markings.

NOTE – Keep the Handles out of the way when pinning.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – When you reach the stitched side seams, the Lining can get in the way. Stop stitching and cut the thread, lift up the foot, move the Lining pieces out of the way and continue stitching.

Find and mark the center of the Front Lining.

Place the Front Lining onto the Main Front right sides together, matching center top edges. Pin.

Starting where the Bottom Lining separates from the Main, pin the Front Lining to the Bottom Lining. Continue pinning around to the opposite side where the Bottom Lining connects to the Main again.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn the bag right side out.

Open the main zipper on the Top of the bag. Turn bag wrong side out.

Repeat steps 9.10 to 9.12 to attach the Main Back to the other side of the Main Bottom, matching centers.

NOTE – There is a point where Main and Lining are not stitched together anymore. Be careful to pin only Main to Main after this point and do not catch the Lining in the seam.

Turn the bag right sides out through the zipper opening.

Pull the Lining, pushing the Main bag inside the Lining, wrapping the Lining around.

Repeat steps 9.13 to 9.15 to attach the Back Lining to the Bottom Lining, leaving a 4-5-inch gap along the bottom edge for turning.

TIP – Mark the beginning and end of the gap using two pins to stop you from stitching it closed accidentally.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the gap open.

Turn your bag right side out through the gap.

Place the Bottom Lining and Back Lining together at the gap, keeping the seam allowance. Pin.

Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Push lining inside the bag.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Shoulder Strap, follow below.

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Shoulder Strap, your Gym Bag is finished!

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold Tab in half right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 10.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –

Fold the end of the Shoulder Strap webbing over by ¼ inch. Then again by ¼ inch. Pin or clip in place.

Alternatively, finish the ends of the webbing pieces by burning the ends. This will stop it from fraying.

NOTE – Please be careful when using fire.

NOTE – If you have cotton webbing you cannot burn the ends.

Stitch along the folded edge.

Repeat steps 10.8 to 10.9 on the other side of the Strap webbing.

Thread one end of the Shoulder Strap through each side of the slider.

Place the Shoulder Strap wrong sides together, approximately 1 inch from the slider. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching 3-4 times back and forth to secure your webbing.

NOTE – If you didn’t hem the Strap, you could use a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Thread the other end of the Shoulder Strap through a D-Ring on the Tab.

NOTE – The Shoulder Strap is being threaded through the Tab that was sewn on in step 8.

Thread the Shoulder Strap through each side of the slider.

Thread it through the other D-Ring.

Fold the Shoulder Strap wrong sides together approximately 1 inch from the D-Ring. Pin.

Repeat step 10.4 to stitch in place.