Hand Sew Octopus

If you want to draw, paint, or embroider the eyes in your own style (or use buttons or googly eyes for example), do this now using the placement in step 1.5. Then skip to step 2.

If you are using fabric glue to attach the eyes, skip to step 1.4. 

If you are just stitching the eyes in place, place them as per step 1.5, stitch in place then skip to step 2.

Otherwise, follow below to use double sided interfacing:

Draw the eye pieces onto the double-sided interfacing. 

Iron each of the double-sided interfacings onto the color fabric you have chosen. 

TIP – Make sure to use the manufacturer’s instructions for ironing in place. We would also suggest you place a pressing cloth between the fabric and your iron to protect the iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark the iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or scrap of 100% cotton will suffice.

Cut out each of the pieces.

Peel the paper backing off the double-sided interfacing on the back of the Eye Blacks.

For each eye, place the Eye Color right side up. Place the Eye Black Right side up on top of it.

If you are using double sided interfacing, iron in place, again using a pressing cloth to protect your iron. Press carefully to ensure the Eye Black stays in the middle. Alternatively, glue in place.

Repeat to iron or glue the Eye Sparkle in place on top of the Eye Black. This is like a little ‘twinkle’ on the eye, so it does not need to be centered. Place this as desired and iron in place.

TIP – Instead of using the Eye Sparkle pieces, you could use a bead, diamante, or embroidery. Make sure whatever you use is age appropriate for the person who will be using the toy.

Pick which of the Body pieces you want to have the eyes on.

Fold this piece in half vertically and press with your fingers. This will make a little fold line that’s visible but not permanent.

Measure down approximately 3 inches and place the eyes ½ inch either side of the fold line.

Either peel the backing off and iron in place, or glue in place.

OPTIONAL – Stitch each of the eye pieces in place. Tie a knot and attach the thread on the back of the fabric to hide it inside, then stitch a few stitches at the edges of each piece to hold them in place.

TIP – Having had this toy in use in our house for a while now, if you have interfaced or glued the eyes in place, I’d highly recommend also stitching the eyes. Both glue and double-sided interfacing will make the eyes stick, but little fingers and cuddles can quickly wear them off. 

Add any additional embroidery or decoration to your eyes.

If you want to draw, paint, or embroider the mouth in your own style (or use buttons or googly eyes for example), do this now. Then skip to step 3.

Alternatively, follow along below.

Using tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, draw the mouth on as desired.

For the mouth as per the photo, center the mouth over the fold line from step 1.5, approximately 1 ½ – 2 inches below the eyes, and curve it approximately ½ inch deep.

If you are doing the Optional Cheeks, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 2.3.

Either repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 using double sided interfacing to attach the cheeks at the end of the mouth. Optionally use glue or stitch them in place as well, then stitch the cheeks to secure (we highly recommend this).

Either use your preferred stitch to stitch the mouth, then skip to step 3, or follow below.

Tie the thread to the fabric by threading the needle and tying the ends of the thread into a knot. On the reverse of the fabric behind one of the cheeks, slip the needle through a small amount of fabric. Pull the thread almost all the way to the knot. Stop pulling and slip the needle through the thread. Pull taut. Your thread should now be knotted to the fabric behind the cheek.

Take the needle through the fabric bringing it up to the right side, coming out right by the edge of the cheek.

Insert the needle up and down into the fabric along the mouth line, from one cheek to the other.

Repeat step 2.4, taking the needle in and out of the same holes along the mouthline so that the line of stitching is now continuous (e.g. where you were going into the fabric, you’ll now be coming out of the fabric).

Repeat steps 2.4 to 2.5 again.

If you wish the mouth to be more defined, repeat again.

TIP – When you stitch through the mouth the second time, use different holes for a more continuous looking mouth. For a mouth that looks more obviously hand stitched, use the same holes as in steps 2.4 to 2.5.

Bring the needle to the wrong side of the fabric. 

To make a knot and slip the needle through the stitching to make a loop.

Pull the thread so the loop gets smaller. 

Slip the needle through the loop.

Pull the loop closed by tugging on the thread (do not just pull the needle or you might knot it but not actually close the loop).

When the loop is flat against the fabric, then pull the needle to finish the knot. 

If you are doing the optional leg decoration, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 4.

You can either sew the leg decoration lengthwise down the legs as shown, or directly across the legs.

Stitching across makes it look more like a realistic leg, stitching down gives a different look. Align yours as you prefer.

If you are stitching lengthwise, fold one leg in half and place pins along the fold line.

If you are stitching across the legs, fold the leg in half in the other direction and place pins along the fold line.

TIP – Instead of pins, draw the lines on with disappearing ink or tailor’s chalk.

Thread the needle and tie the threads together in a knot.

Slip the needle through the fabric close to the edge near the pins. Take care if you are using felt to not stitch too close to the edge or the fabric disintegrates, and the thread will fall out of the fabric.

Pull the thread mostly through the fabric until the knot is close. Then slip the needle through the threads. Pull the thread taut. The thread should now be knotted onto the fabric.

Insert the needle up and down into the fabric along the line of the pins (just like in step 2.4 for the mouth). 

Continue all the way to the end of the fabric.

From the central line, measure ½ inch intervals and place pins at each interval.

Thread the needle back through the fabric along the next row of pins along.

Along the curved edge, slip the needle through the fabric part halfway to the next row. This stops the thread being too loose at the end.

Continue stitching all the other rows. Tie off and trim your thread.

Add any additional decoration you would like to the leg piece.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 on all 7 of the remaining leg pieces so that you have 8 with decoration and 8 without.

Place two Leg pieces wrong sides together and pin. Knot the thread to the fabric.

NOTE – If you did the leg decoration, use one Leg piece with decoration and one without.

Take the needle through both layers of fabric, approximately ⅛ inch from the edge (you may need to go further in depending on fabric type to ensure the thread stays in place and doesn’t slip out).

Pull the thread taut.

Repeat step 4.2 approximately ⅛ inch – ¼ inch away from the first stitch.

Continue stitching this way down the edge, joining both layers of fabric.

Continue all the way around the leg pieces. Leave the short straight edge open.

Tie a knot by taking the needle through both layers of fabric and pull to form a loop.

Slip the needle inside the loop.

Do not pull on the needle. Pull on the loop to tighten the thread.

When the loop is flat against the fabric, pull on the needle to finish the knot.

Stuff the leg with stuffing.

If you are using a mixture of items to stuff with, place any rice or heavy fillings first into the tip of the leg. Then finish with any lighter stuffing or fabric scraps last.

Pin the end of the leg closed.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.10 for all 8 legs.

Place one body piece wrong sides together with the body piece that has the face on it.

If you are alternating colors, pick a different color than the face body piece.

Pin the two body pieces together down the side seam from base to tip on one side.

Using the same techniques as in step 4, tie a knot at the base of the seam, then stitch all the way up the seam.

When you get to the top, knot to secure.

Place the next body pieces wrong sides together on the other side of the face body piece.

Pin together all the way down the side seam.

Using the same technique, stitch down the full length of the side seam, knotting at the bottom and cut the threads.

Place the last body piece wrong sides together with the free edges of the body pieces you have just attached, pinning down each side seam.

The body should now form a little ‘ball’/head shape.

Stitch from the bottom of one side seam, up and over the head, down to the bottom of the other side seam, knot at each end and trim your threads.

Place the bottom piece right side down.

Place one leg piece right side up onto the base. Overlap the edges by approximately a ¼ inch. Pin in place.

NOTE – For this octopus, the pale pink side of the leg with the decoration is going to be the top of the leg so it is facing up. The darker pink/maroon side is going to be the bottom of the leg. It can be whichever you prefer though. If you want your decoration to be the bottom of the legs so that it is more like a tentacle, place it so the other side is facing up.

Pin another leg the same way, directly opposite to the first one.

Pin two more legs at right angles so you now have a cross shape. 

Pin the other 4 legs in-between the previous 4 legs so that all 8 legs are pinned on at equal intervals.

NOTE – The edges of the last 4 legs will need to be slightly overlapped as they are pinned on.

Stitch the legs on using the same loop stitching technique as used when the legs were assembled. Knot at the beginning and ending of your stitching.

NOTE – This side is going to be inside the finished toy so this stitching will not be seen. Use the same color thread as the bottom, not the same color as the legs. That way any stitching that goes through to the other side will be less visible.

TIP – Stitch on both the inside and outside of the base so the legs are stitched on securely.

Stuff the body.

Pin the base to the body, making sure the side with the raw edges of the legs attached is inside the toy.

TIP – If you have stuffed with anything that may spill, leave the body upside down and place the bottom onto it so the filling stays inside while you are pinning.

Stitch the bottom and legs to the body. Use a lot of small stitches and knot regularly as you stitch around to keep it secure.

Make sure as you are stitching that the stitches are going through both the legs and the body layers of fabric.

For most types of stuffing, you do not need to go all the way through to the bottom fabric too, just the top of the leg and the body will suffice. However, if you are using a particularly heavy stuffing, you may wish to stitch through all layers including the bottom. To do this, push the needle all the way through from the body to the bottom, then push it all the way back up again.

TIP – This can be a little tricky. To help, use a thick/stronger needle, and protect your fingers with a thimble.

When you get back to the start, check that you are happy with how securely the body is stitched on. If needed, stitch around a second time.

Knot the thread securely. Do not cut the threads yet.

Push the needle from the knot through to somewhere inside the octopus and push it out through the bottom. 

Pull the thread taut and snip near the fabric (taking care not to cut your fabric). Let the tail of the thread slip back inside the toy so it is hidden inside.