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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Handsew Unicorn Toy
Member Rating
Difficulty Level

Beginner
Equipment Needed

Description
This easy-to-sew, hand-stitched magical unicorn toy is the perfect play companion. Lots of features are optional so that you can you create any animal or creature you like. It is approximately 13 inches tall and 15 inches long.
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- +Preparation
- OPTIONAL Double sided interfacing OR fabric glue.
- 4x approximately 1 inch or 1.5cm wide buttons, OR 4x doll leg joints.
- Stuffing, polyfil for stuffing inside the finished toy. You can also use fabric scraps for this or beans/rice if you’d like a weighted toy. Make sure to use a filling which is non-flammable, and age & safety appropriate for the person who will be using or receiving the toy.
- OPTIONAL Embroidery floss for the eyes – depending on your fabric choice you may find it easier to use this for the eyes.
- OPTIONAL – 1x pipe cleaner to go inside the tail so you can mold it.
- Matching thread and OPTIONAL contrasting thread for the eyes
Project OverviewHand Sew Unicorn
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This adorable hand stitched toy can be any horse, unicorn, or magical creature! Mix and match to create the creature of your dreams.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Craft
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Height
Length
Body
13.0
15.0
NOTE – The length measure is from horn to tail.
Materials and ToolsFabric – We will not be finishing the edges so you need a fabric that will NOT fray (e.g. felt, fleece, fake fur, leather, wool suiting).
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Unicorn
ONE Size
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are needle, pins, iron, disappearing ink pen, cutting mat, and rotary cutter/scissors. You do not need a sewing machine, or a serger/overlocker, for this pattern.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Unicorn ONE Size 2-3 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Unicorn ONE Size 2-3 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
If you are using double sided interfacing, do NOT cut any of these pieces yet, but put both the fabric and double sided interfacing aside and draw/cut these during the relevant step in the tutorial.
Cutting Checklist:
Pieces
Fabric
OPTIONAL Double Sided Interfacing
Body
Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
N/A
Belly
Cut 1
N/A
Tail
Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
N/A
Horn
Cut 1
N/A
Legs
Cut 8 (4x mirror image pair)
N/A
Hoof Side
Cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
N/A
Hoof Base
Cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
N/A
Outer |Ears
Cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
Inner Ears
Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
Heart
Cut 1
Cut 1
OPTIONAL Mane
Cut 40 – 50
N/A
- + Instructions
- OPTIONAL DOUBLE SIDED INTERFACING – Cut Ear and heart interfacing pieces. Iron Ears onto fabric, and the Heart onto one side of the Body.
- OPTIONAL EYES – Draw the eyes onto the Body. Chainstitch the eyes. Sew using regular hand stitching for the eyelashes.
- OPTIONAL EARS – Put Ears as indicated on pattern, pinch the fabric around the Ear, sew from the wrong side of the fabric through to the Ear making sure to secure Ear. Repeat on other side of head.
- OPTIONAL TAIL – With Tail wrong sides together, sew around the Tail leaving an opening. Stuff Tail, then draw stitching lines onto the Tail. Start at the center line and work your way toward outer edge. Stitch onto the wrong side of one of the Body pieces.
- LEGS – If using doll joints, add them now using manufacturer’s instructions. With wrong sides together, put two legs together. Stitch the legs together, leaving the thread attached at the bottom of the leg. Sew short sides of hoof together, then use thread from end of the leg to attach the hoof to the bottom of the leg. Stuff the leg and sew hoof base onto the end of the leg. Repeat with the other 3 legs.
- OPTIONAL MANE – If adding the Horn, pin on either side of where the Horn will be placed. On the wrong side of the Body, pin the Mane piece against the pin for the Horn closest to eye then adding a few more to create the fringe. Continue adding the Mane pieces on the other side of the gap for the Horn, overlapping and pinning as they are put down. Lay a second row of Mane pieces, pinning as they are placed. Once they are where desired, sew through all the layers on the wrong side of the Body so the threads are hidden.
- BODY – If adding OPTIONAL doll joints, apply the body section of the joint to the Body piece now. Placing the two Body pieces wrong sides together, sew both layers together starting under the chin, around the head, and along the back. Knot thread and leave attached below the Tail. Stuff the head only.
- OPTIONAL HORN – Fold the Horn wrong sides together and sew along the straight edge, then stuff the Horn. OPTIONAL decoration – add decoration to Horn or add twirl stitch by knotting thread to base of Horn, twirl thread around Horn tightly, knot the thread at the tip of the Horn but do not cut the thread. Use the thread to stitch the twirl in place all the way down the Horn and tie a knot at the base of Horn. Pin the Horn to the head where marked. Sew around the base of the Horn.
- BELLY – OPTIONAL – Mark how you want to have the belly decorated. OR – mark horizontal lines on the belly ½ inch apart. Stitch through the belly following the lines. Knot regularly at the end of the row to keep the stitching secure. Find the center of the belly and mark, then fold the Body in half and mark. Match the belly and Body wrong sides together at center marks. Pin the Body together from the neck down to the belly and continuing around one side of the belly to the bottom Tail area, and stitch. Repeat on other side, leaving a 3 inch opening. Stuff the Body and then sew the gap closed.
- ATTACH THE LEGS – Sew the legs onto either side of the Body and then if using buttons add them sewing from one button through the Body tightly to the button on the other side. If you added the OPTIONAL doll joints, attach per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Quick Glance Cheat SheetApproximately ⅛ to ¼ inch included inch seam allowance included
Sewing –
1 . OPTIONAL Double Sided InterfacingSeam Allowance
⅛ to ¼ inch seam allowance included
1.0If you are not doing the Ears or Heart, skip to step 2.
If you are doing the Ears and/or Heart and are using glue, follow along below but glue the items in place rather than using double sided interfacing.
If you are doing the Ears and/or Heart and are using double sided interfacing, follow along below.
1.1If you are doing the Ears, follow below. If not, skip to step 1.2.
Draw the outer Ear pieces onto the double sided interfacing. If you are using several different colors draw these separately.
Iron each of the double-sided interfacings onto their color fabric. Cut out the pieces.
Repeat for the Inner Ear.
TIP – Make sure to use the manufacturer’s instructions for ironing in place. We would also suggest you place a pressing cloth between the fabric and your iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or scrap of 100% cotton can suffice.
1.2If you are not doing the Heart, skip to step 1.3.
OPTIONAL Heart – Repeat step 1.1 for the Heart piece.
Peel the back facing off and iron in place in the desired position on one side of Body.
1.3If you are not doing the Ears, skip to step 2.
If you are doing the Ears, peel the back facing off the Inner Ear pieces. Place the Inner Ear pieces in the middle of an interfaced outer Ear piece and iron in place. Make sure the bottom straight raw edges line up.
1.4Peel outer Ears interfacing backing off and place them on the non-interfaced Ear pieces. Iron together.
2 . OPTIONAL Eyes2.0If you are not adding the optional eyes, skip to step 3. If you are adding optional eyes, follow below.
2.1Draw eyes in place on Body with a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
2.2Next, we will stitch or draw the eyes on.
Here we use a chainstitch for the eyes, and a regular stitch for eyelashes.
If you know how to do these, or have another stitch you would prefer, do this now on both eyes then skip to step 3.
If you are going to draw or paint the eyes on, do this now and skip to step 3.
If you are going to follow our stitching tutorial, follow along below.
To start, thread your needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread.
On the reverse of the fabric, put the needle through a tiny bit of fabric near the inner corner of the eye.
Pull the thread almost all the way through the fabric. Before the knot gets to the fabric, put the needle through the knot and pull it tight.
2.3Put the needle back through the fabric near the knot so it comes out on the right side of the fabric at the very corner of the eye.
2.4Now we will start our chain stitch.
Put the needle back into the fabric near where the thread is coming out (but not exactly in the same hole where the thread is coming out).
2.5Pull the thread through the fabric until you are left with a small loop only on the right side of the fabric.
2.6Put the needle back through the fabric approximately ¼ inch further along the eye marking.
Make sure the tip of the needle goes through the loop created in step 2.5.
2.7Pull the needle all the way through. Pull the thread taut. This will tighten the loop around where the thread is coming out of the fabric.
2.8Push the needle back into the fabric as close to where it came out in step 2.6 as you can (without using the exact same hole).
2.9Pull the needle all the way through to the wrong side of the fabric and pull the thread taut so it forms a little loop like in step 2.6 again.
Push the needle back into the fabric from the wrong side to the right side, approximately ¼ inch further along the eye marking. Make sure the needle comes through the loop you just formed.
Pull the needle all the way through the fabric.
2.10Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.9 continuously until you reach the end of the eye. This is your chainstitch.
2.11Next we will use a regular stitch to make the eyelashes.
Put your needle into the fabric half way through the end eyelash.
Bring it back out on the very tip of the eyelash.
2.12Pull the needle through and pull the thread taut.
2.13Put the needle through the same holes from step 2.11. to form a loop.
Pull the needle all the way through and the thread tight.
2.14Stitch back along the eyelash in the same way so there are two layers of thread.
When you get to the base of the eyelash again, bring the needle back up at the base of the next eyelash along.
Repeat steps 2.13 to 2.14 until you have stitched all the eyelashes.
2.15We will now knot and tie off our stitching.
Bring your needle through to the wrong side of the fabric.
Slip your needle under one of the stitches at the back (not through the fabric, just through the back of ones of the stitches. This ensures you can’t see the knot we are about to create from the front of the fabric).
Pull the thread so it leaves a little loop and put the needle through this.
2.16Pull the needle all the way through the loop from step 2.15. Then pull the loop taut.
You will need to do this by pulling the thread loop manually with your other hand. Do not just pull on the needle or it can pull the first bit of thread tight, and not the loop, creating a knot without actually securing your eyelash stitching.
2.17Pull the loose thread taut.
Repeat steps 2.15 to 2.17 to make a second knot.
Cut the thread leaving approximately a ½ inch to 1 inch long bit of thread loose.
2.18Repeat steps 2.2 to 2.17 on other Body piece so you have a matching eye on each Body piece.
OPTIONAL – Glue or stitch on any embellishments to the eyes. Make sure to consider health and safety and whether any embellishments will be suitable for the age of the person who will use & play with the finished item.
3 . OPTIONAL Ears3.0If you are not adding the optional Ears, skip to step 4. If you are adding optional Ears, follow below.
3.1Fold one of the Ears in half vertically.
3.2Place Ears as indicated on pattern, or where preferred for your creature.
NOTE – The Ears need to be sewn, not glued on. We will do this in the next steps.
3.3For the Ears to stand up somewhat on their own, from the wrong side of the fabric, pinch the fabric securely around the Ear.
3.4Make sure it is pulled tight and the Ear is butted right up inside the fold.
3.5Stitch from wrong side of the fabric through the Body, then back down through the fabric to the wrong side again. This way all layers are sewn through.
Reinforce the Ear by sewing through the Ear several times. Young children often pick up toys by their Ears or Tails so give it a good pull and wiggle around to make sure it is secure.
Tie the thread off in a knot as we did for the eyelashes and cut the thread.
3.6Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the other Ear checking that they are symmetrical and in the same place.
TIP – Place the Body pieces wrong sides together and check the Ears in the correct place before you start step 3.5. That way you can ensure they are in the same place before stitching.
4 . OPTIONAL Tail4.0If you are not adding the optional Tail, skip to step 5. If you are adding optional Tail, follow below.
4.1Place the Tails wrong sides together.
Thread your needle and tie a knot in the end so you have two layers of thread again.
Slip your needle through both layers of Tail near the straight raw edge.
4.2We are going to stitch around the Tail leaving the straight edge open. Pull your needle fully through the fabric and pull the thread until it leaves just a small Tail. Slip the needle through the little loop and pull it tight. This will knot the thread onto the fabric.
4.3To stitch, either use your favorite hand stitch, or follow as below.
Put your needle in from one side to another. Pull the thread taut. This creates a little loop stitch up and over the fabric.
4.4Repeat step 4.3 continuously approximately ⅛ to ⅟₁₆ away from the previous stitch.
TIP – Be careful not to let the thread get knotted as you are stitching. If it happens, do not cut the thread. Instead, try gently pulling on the loop within the knot and see if it undoes the knot. Very often it will, and the knot will slip free.
4.5Continue stitching all the way around the Tail until you get to the end. Leave the short straight edge open.
Tie the thread in a knot several times and cut.
4.6Very lightly stuff the Tail by using a chopstick or blunt knitting needle to gently help you with your stuffing.
For a bushy Tail, stuff fully, then skip to step 4.12 to attach the Tail to the Body.
For a narrower Tail with detail stitching, continue below.
TIP – If you want the Tail to be moldable (e.g. to stay in a curl or shape you want), you can insert a pipe cleaner into the Tail and stuff around it. This method might only be suitable for older children.
4.7We will now stitch rows of hand sewing through the Tail for decorative effect.
OPTIONAL – Draw the first line to follow by drawing the center point from the start to the tip of the Tail with tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.
Tie a knot at the raw edge in line with where you’ll be stitching.
If you have a design you’d prefer to do, stitch this now. Or if you want lines as per the cover photo, follow below.
4.8Starting at the edge, push the needle through the Tail approximately ¼ inch from the raw edge. Then repeat ¼ inch away from that.
4.9Continue to stitch through the Tail all the way down the central line you marked.
Pull the thread tight enough as you go so it pulls the fabric inwards slightly and creates a ditch-type effect. Do not pull so tightly that it distorts or pulls at the Tail.
When you get to the tip of the Tail, knot the thread but do not cut it.
4.10Stitch from the tip of the Tail back in a line to the start, ½ way between the line you’ve already stitched and the edge. Knot the thread but do not cut it.
Repeat to stitch down the other side so that there are three lines.
4.11Knot the thread at the tip of the Tail twice to secure.
Poke the needle into the Tail near the knot and out the other side somewhere approximately ½ to 1 inch away.
Pull the thread tight and snip close to the fabric.
Allow the thread Tail to slip back inside so it’s hidden.
4.12Using the same looping stitch as in step 3.5, stitch the Tail onto the wrong side of one Body piece.
5 . Legs5.0OPTIONAL – If you want to use doll joints for the legs, apply them on top of the legs as per the manufacturer’s instructions to 4 of the leg pieces. When you pair the legs up in step 5.1, make sure to use 1x leg piece with a joint and 1x without for each leg.
5.1Place 2 legs wrong sides together.
Using the same stitch as in step 4.4, stitch around leaving straight edge open.
When you come to the end of the stitching, knot the thread and snip.
NOTE – From here on, we will use this same looping stitch unless otherwise noted.
5.2If you are not adding a hoof, skip to step 5.4.
OPTIONAL Hoof – If you are adding a hoof, stitch the hoof short sides into a circle, knotting at each end.
Leave the thread attached. We will use it to attach the hoof to the leg.
5.3Using your thread from step 5.2, stitch the hoof to the bottom of the leg.
Again, leave the remaining thread attached. We will use it to stitch the bottom of the hoof on.
5.4Stuff the leg solid but not too tightly. If needed, use a pointy blunt object such as a chopstick or knitting needle to stuff the leg.
5.5Push the stuffing down into the leg firmly so it’s away from the end.
Place the hoof base on the end of the leg and pin in place.
5.6If you did the hoof, use the left-over thread to stitch the hoof base to the leg and knot.
If you did not do the hoof, use new thread and stitch the hoof base to the leg and knot.
As you did for the Tail, push the needle inside the leg near your knot, and bring it out the other side.
Pull the thread hard so it pulls the fabric slightly. Once it’s taut, carefully snip it close to the fabric.
Allow the thread Tail to slip back inside leg so it’s hidden.
5.7Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 for the three 3 legs so that you have 4 in total.
6 . OPTIONAL Mane6.0If you are not adding the optional Mane, skip to step 7. If you are adding optional Mane, follow below.
6.1If you are doing the Horn, place pins either side of where the Horn will go (either place as desired or use the markings on the pattern pieces). Skip to step 6.2.
If you are not doing the Horn, skip this step and ignore the gap for the Horn. Just place Mane pieces randomly throughout in the next steps.
6.2Pin the first Mane piece in place. Place this up against the pin you put in to mark where the Horn will go.
The Mane should overlap into the Body a little bit to make it easy to stitch on.
6.3Continue adding more Mane pieces to what will become the fringe.
Make sure each overlaps the Body piece on the wrong side of the Body so you have something to secure them with when we stitch them.
If you’ve used multiple colors, either mix in so they’re all mixed or make any design you like. For example, graduate colors, stripes, etc.
You can place the Mane pieces as far into the Body as you wish, or just overlap a little. The overlap will be hidden inside the final animal.
As you are placing the Mane pieces, check you are happy with the look from both the front and the back of the Body as you will see the Mane from both sides of the finished animal.
Use as many or as few Mane pieces in your ‘fringe’ as you wish. Here we used 5.
6.4Make sure to place some as fringe (approx. 4) and to stitch the fringe in place. As you stitch, go all the way through the Mane and Body to secure well.
Try to keep any messy, overlapping stitches just inside the Body. That way when we attach the other side of the Body, they will be hidden inside.
6.5Now pin the main part of the Mane.
You can place the Mane as far down the neck as you like. Again, use as few or as many Mane pieces as you like. Mix and match placement and colors for your desired effect.
To get the look in the photos, lay one row of overlapping Mane pieces and pin from the right side.
6.6Then lay a second row and pin from the wrong side.
6.7Once you are happy with your Mane pieces and their placement, stitch through all layers to secure. Knot and tie the threads on the wrong side just inside the Body so the threads are hidden in the finished animal.
7 . Body7.0OPTIONAL – If you are using doll joints for the legs, apply the body section of the joint to each Body piece where you want the legs, as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
7.1Pin the two bodies pieces wrong sides together.
7.2Start stitching the two layers together from under chin up over head, along back and to end of back.
As you go past Mane and Tail, stitch all the way through to secure. This gives extra strength to the Tail and Mane.
Make sure to knot occasionally so that in case your stitching ever comes undone, it is secured regularly.
When you get to just past the Tail, stop stitching.
Knot your thread but leave the thread attached as we will continue to stitch with it later.
7.3Stuff the head only. Stuffing the Body in parts helps ensure it is evenly stuffed and it makes it much easier to get around the tight curves of the neck.
Use a chopstick or blunt knitting needle to gently help you with your stuffing if needed.
8 . OPTIONAL Horn8.0If you are not adding an optional Horn to your unicorn, skip to step 9. If you are adding the optional Horn, follow below.
8.1Fold the Horn wrong sides together along the two straight edges.
Stitch the Horn along this side seam.
8.2Stuff the Horn.
8.3If you do not want to decorate your Horn, skip to step 8.11.
OPTIONAL – If you have a specific way you would like to decorate your Horn, do this now and skip to step 8.11. Otherwise, for a twirl stitch follow below.
8.4Start by knotting your thread and stitching to the bottom of the Horn.
8.5Twirl your thread around the Horn, pulling it tightly.
8.6When you get to the top of the Horn, knot your thread to the tip. Do not cut the thread.
8.7Make sure your thread ‘twirl’ is evenly spaced and where you want it to be.
Using the same thread, stitch through your twirl at regular intervals to secure it to the Horn.
8.8Continue to stitch around your twirl.
Keep your stitching very close to the twirl and then pull it taut so it looks like it is part of the twirl design.
8.9Stitch all the way around your twirl to the base of the Horn.
8.10Knot your thread and cut the thread.
8.11Pin Horn to the head as per marking, centering it over the seam between the two Body pieces.
8.12Stitch the Horn to the Body either as marked or in between your Mane.
9 . Belly9.1If you do not want to decorate the belly, skip to step 9.4.
If you have a specific way you would like to decorate the belly (for example, adding a child’s name or any other wonderful design your imagination can come up with!), do this now and skip to step 9.4.
Otherwise, if you would like to stitch horizontal lines, mark these using pins, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric pen approximately ½ inch apart.
9.2Knot your thread and tie near the edge.
Stitch through the belly, following the lines.
When you go to move from one line to another, stitch through close to the edge. Try to keep these stitches where you are moving from one row to another on the wrong side of the belly piece so they will be hidden in the final animal.
Knot regularly at the end of rows to help keep the stitching secure.
9.3Continue to stitch rows all the way down the belly piece. When you reach the end, knot to secure and cut the thread.
9.4Fold the belly in half to find center and mark either side with a pin.
9.5Fold the Body in half to find center and mark on both Body pieces with a pin.
9.6Pin the belly to the Body, starting at the center points you just marked.
9.7Pin the Body together down the neck to the belly.
Then continue to pin the belly to the Body all the way up to meet the neck.
Leave the other side of the belly open for now.
9.8Continue to pin the Body together down this one side of the belly to the bottom and Tail area.
9.9Stitch from the Tail, along one side of belly and up to the neck.
9.10Pin other side of belly to the Body, leaving an approximately 3-inch-long gap for stuffing.
9.11Again stitch from Tail, along one side of belly and up to the neck, leaving the gap for stuffing.
9.12Once the Body is mostly enclosed, stuff the Body.
Use a chopstick or blunt knitting needle to gently help you with the stuffing.
9.13Stitch the gap closed.
Once you’ve knotted your stitching, push the needle into the Body and all the way out the other side. Pull it taut and then snip it close to the Body. Let the thread Tail slip back inside the Body.
10 . Attach the Legs10.1If you have used doll joints, attach the legs as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have not used doll joints, stitch a pair of legs on either side of the front of the Body.
10.2If using buttons stitch all the way from one side of the Body to the other side of the Body to secure.
Go through several times so that it is really secure. Pull tight, knot, and tie off. Again, put the needle all the way through the Body and bring it out somewhere random, pull the thread tight and snip so the thread Tail goes back inside the Body.
Repeat with the other pair of legs at the back of the Body.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Hand Sew Unicorn is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rphandsew.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSizingSize Range
Craft
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Height
Length
Body
13.0
15.0
NOTE – The length measure is from horn to tail.
Materials and ToolsFabric – We will not be finishing the edges so you need a fabric that will NOT fray (e.g. felt, fleece, fake fur, leather, wool suiting).
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Unicorn
ONE Size
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL Double sided interfacing OR fabric glue.
- 4x approximately 1 inch or 1.5cm wide buttons, OR 4x doll leg joints.
- Stuffing, polyfil for stuffing inside the finished toy. You can also use fabric scraps for this or beans/rice if you’d like a weighted toy. Make sure to use a filling which is non-flammable, and age & safety appropriate for the person who will be using or receiving the toy.
- OPTIONAL Embroidery floss for the eyes – depending on your fabric choice you may find it easier to use this for the eyes.
- OPTIONAL – 1x pipe cleaner to go inside the tail so you can mold it.
- Matching thread and OPTIONAL contrasting thread for the eyes
Tools needed are needle, pins, iron, disappearing ink pen, cutting mat, and rotary cutter/scissors. You do not need a sewing machine, or a serger/overlocker, for this pattern.