Jenna Jumpsuit

Jenna Jumpsuit

Difficulty Level = Beginner

No need to mix and match your tops and bottoms with the all-in-one Jenna Jumpsuit. Stand out from the crowd in this all-year-round outfit with options for short or long sleeves, and shorts or full-length pants – it is perfect for any season. Bust and waist darts along with a belt cinch in the waist to create a flattering shape.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size and blending – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your bust measurement to the size for your waist, then to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the hem using your hip measurement size.
• Height Adjustments – This pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you can add or remove length:
  • Follow this tutorial to make the adjustments to the bodice.  If you’re height adjustment crosses through the collar, you can shorten the collar as well.  
  • To adjust the length of the sleeve, add/remove length halfway between the top and bottom of the sleeve.
  • For the legs, check the finished inseam measurement in the chart above, then lengthen/shorten halfway through the leg.
  • For the shorts, adjust at the shorts cutline if you need a height adjustment or if you prefer a longer or shorter length.  
• Bust – The jumpsuit is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately a ready-to-wear B cup).
  • If your bust size is smaller than a C cup, you do not necessarily need a bust adjustment. After assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest fits well.
  • If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial.
• Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting so you might not need to make any adjustments. Once you have made your muslin, if you feel you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller follow this tutorial.
• Crotch fitting – Pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern.  If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.  
  • If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment.  Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. For back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise, and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!  
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin of the jumpsuit:
  • Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
  • Cut out the Main Bodice, Legs, and a Sleeve. You will not need to cut out the Bodice Lining. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.  

• Fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. 
• Fabric needs to have at least 40% stretch to achieve the intended fit. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. i.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
• The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This ensures your jumpsuit maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size. 
• This pattern is not designed to work for a 4-way stretch fabric (fabric which stretches in all directions).  Using 4-way stretch fabric will result in a jumpsuit that is too long throughout.  To check if your fabric is 4-way stretch, check for vertical stretch.  Stretching from the raw, cut edge, parallel to the grainline, pull to check for stretch.  If it does not stretch significantly but does meet the 40% stretch requirement from selvage to selvage, this meets recommended fabric requirements.  
• Light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, Liverpool, modal etc.
• Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• ⅜ inch clear elastic – less than 2 yards
• Stretch Interfacing – less than ½ yard 
• Thread to match

Tools needed are a sewing machine, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, optional twin needle, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

• Front Overwrap – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1 (mirror image)
• Front Underwrap – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1 (mirror image)
  • NOTE – For both front pieces, cut with the writing on the pattern pieces facing up, then cut the lining for both pieces with the writing facing down.  This will give you mirror images for both, as well as the correct orientation for the Overwrap and Underwrap pieces.  
• Back – Fabric cut 1 on the fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
• Front Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Back Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Sleeve – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Waistband – Fabric cut 2
• Collar – Cut 2 on the fold
• Belt – Cut 2 on the fold
• Belt Loop – Cut 1

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. DARTS – Mark, stitch, and press all darts.
2. SHOULDERS – With the right sides together, stitch the Main Front Overwrap and Front Underwrap to the Back at the shoulder seams. Press. Repeat for the Lining. 
3. COLLAR – With right sides together, stitch the Collar pieces together at both short edges and one long edge. Clip the corners, turn, and press. Matching the center points and pattern markings to the Collar ends, stitch the Collar to the bodice.
4. SLEEVES – Baste lining and outer together along armscye.  Fold and press a memory hem on each Sleeve. Right sides together, sew the Sleeves to the Bodice along the armscye.
5. BODICE AND WAISTBAND – With the Bodice right side facing up, cross the Front Overwrap over the Front Underwrap and baste at the bottom edge. With the right sides together, stitch the side seams. Fold the Belt Loop in half with the right sides together and stitch down the long edge. Turn and press. Cut in half. Baste one end of each Belt Loop to a side seam. With the right sides together, stitch the Waistbands along the ends. Press the seam towards the back. With the right sides together, pin the Waistband to the Bodice, matching up the raw edges and side seams. Stitch and press the seam down. Flip the unsewn edge of the Belt Loops down to the raw edge of the Waistband and baste. NOTE – There will be a slight excess.
6. FRONT AND BACK LEGS – Right sides together stitch a Front to a Back Leg at the side seam and the inseam. Repeat for other leg. Insert one leg into the other, right sides together, and stitch along the rise.
7. ATTACH LEGS TO BODICE – With the Legs wrong side out, and the Bodice right side out, slide the Bodice into the Legs. Match up the side seams, pin and stitch. Trim Belt Loop excess.
8. HEM – Turn the Leg hems under ½ inch and press, then topstitch. Refold the memory hem of the Sleeves and topstitch.
9. BELT – Stitch the Belt pieces right sides together leaving a 2-inch gap for turning. Clip the corners. Turn the Belt right side out and press. Slipstitch the gap closed or topstitch around the Belt.

Congratulations, your Jenna Jumpsuit is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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