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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Kids Zoo Backpack
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Make your backpack come alive with character and charm! This fully-lined Kids Zoo Backpack sewing pattern with adjustable straps has loads of personality and fun options, including a cat, penguin, and alien, as well as a plain option.
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- +Preparation
- 2x 1.5 inch wide D-ring
- 2x Sliders (same width as your webbing)
- Straps:
- 1 – 1.25 inch wide Webbing. 30 inches in will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Padding – You can use a wadding, batting or even a fleece to pad the Straps – approximately 0.75 – 2 yards will be sufficient
- 1x Zipper:
- Small – 22 inches long
- Large – 25 inches long
- OPTIONAL Penguin / Alien – You will need a handful of stuffing
- OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket – 1x 7 inch zipper per pocket
- NOTE – You can add one to the plain or Alien OPTION on the front, and one to the back.
- OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket – 1 x 8 inch zipper
- NOTE – You can add one to the plain or Cat OPTION.
- OPTIONAL Batting / Interfacing – You can add interfacing to all pieces or batting to all pieces except the pockets. If you are using a light weight fabric (e.g., quilting cotton) for the backpack, you will need to add batting/interfacing to stabilize it. If you are using a heavy weight fabric this is not needed. You will need approximately 1.5 – 2.5 yards.
- OPTIONAL Fusible webbing e.g., Pellon 805 Wonder-Under, ‘heat n bond’, ‘bondaweb’, fusible web or iron-on adhesive. You will need this if you are making the Cat, Alien or Penguin. Approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient. Alternatively, you can use fabric glue to stick your pieces down.
- Cat OPTION – Embroidery thread for the cat’s whiskers
- OPTIONAL Personalisation – vinyl, fabric paints, scrap of fabric for applique
- Thread to match
- Front & Back – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 2
- NOTE – For the Penguin OPTION you only need to cut the Back.
- Top Side – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 2
- Bottom Side – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 1
- Straps – Fabric cut 2, Batting/Padding – Batting cut 2 using inner cut line
- Handle – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- D-ring Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket:
- Top – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Bottom – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Zipper Tab – Fabric cut 1
- NOTE – This can be added to the plain or Cat OPTION.
-
- Pocket – Lining cut 1 per pocket
- Rectangle – Fabric cut 1 per pocket
- NOTE – You can add a Zipper Pocket to any Back or to the plain or Alien OPTION Front.
- Eyes – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
- Pupils – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
- Nose – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
- Outer Ears – Fabric cut 4
- Inner Ears – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
- Paws – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
- Paw Fingers – Fabric cut 6, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 6
- Paw Soles – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
- Front Top – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 1
- Front Bottom – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 1
- Eyes – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
- Pupils – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
- Wings – Fabric cut 4, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Beak – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Feet – Fabric cut 4, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Tummy – Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 1
- Antennae – Fabric cut 4, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Eyes – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
- Pupils – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
- OPTIONAL Pouch Pockets – Fabric cut 3
- Cut files for the smaller pieces are included in .SVG, .PNG, and .DXF. Download the files, open the software for your cutting machine and choose the file type you would like to work with.
- Make sure before cutting that the file is the correct size.
- When cutting fabric on your cutting machine, be sure to use interfacing. Then follow the machine instructions.
Project OverviewKids Zoo Backpack
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This fully lined backpack has two sizes and multiple animal options to choose from; alien, cat or penguin. The straps are adjustable, with two additional strap length options suitable for adults. Add an optional zipper or buggy pocket to the front and a zipper pocket to the back for lots of storage space. The penguin tummy creates a pouch pocket.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
S, L
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Width
Height
Depth
S
9.0
13.0
4.5
L
10.0
14.4
4.5
There are three strap lengths to choose from. We recommend using strap 1 for a child’s backpack. Use strap 2 or 3 for an adult, based on personal preference and how the adult would like to wear the backpack. The straps are all adjustable.
Materials and ToolsFabric – You will need a woven or non-stretch fabric. Cotton, quilting cotton, denim, cotton lawn, canvas, even upholstery fabric would work. You could use a faux leather/leather or suede, but you will need the correct machine and needle to work with this fabric as there are a lot of layers that need sewing together.
Lining fabric – It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin. If your main fabric is not too thick, you could also use this for the lining.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
NOTE – For webbing pieces you can use any width from 1 – 1.25 inches wide. Remember to use the same width sliders where needed. The D-ring can be the same size or wider than the webbing.
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, optional washaway sewing tape, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Backpack Cat OPTION Alien OPTION Penguin OPTION OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket Zipper Tab OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket S 2-3, 11-17, 19 9-10, 21-22, 31-32 8, 15-16, 20-21, 30-31 3-6, 12-14, 22-23, 32-33 7-8 17 17-18 L 2-3, 11-17, 19 9-10, 27-28, 37-38 8, 15-16, 24-25, 34-35 3-6, 12-14, 25-26, 35-36 7-8 17 17-18 Strap Lengths 1 20-21 2 21-25 3 25-29 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Backpack Cat OPTION Alien OPTION Penguin OPTION OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket Zipper Tab OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket S 2-3, 11-17, 19 9-10, 21-22, 31-32 8, 15-16, 20-21, 30-31 3-6, 12-14, 22-24, 32-34 7-8 17 17-18 L 2-3, 11-17, 19 9-10, 27-28, 37-38 8, 15-16, 24-25, 34-35 3-6, 12-14, 25-27, 35-37 7-8 17 17-18 Strap Lengths 1 20-21 2 21-25 3 25-29 Cut Files
File Types
We have included three to four file types for you to choose from. Please choose whichever you are more familiar with or works best with your cutting machine. For cut files of the smaller pieces for some of our patterns, like the Dolls House Quiet Book and Add-on, we do not include a PDF copy. All versions come with .SVG, .PNG, and .DXF.
You will start by downloading the files from your account. Open your software and choose the file type you’d like to work with.
Pattern Cut Files
When working with cut files to cut small pattern pieces, it is imperative that you make sure the file is the correct size prior to cutting. We have included a one-inch square box offset in each file. You should be able to move the square off to the side, so it isn’t cut with the rest of your file. For files that also have square pieces, please be sure to compare them to the cut chart in the original file instructions. We’d always prefer you double check than have something cut out that isn’t useable!
Other Cut Files
For all other cut files, you should resize to your project needs. Please do keep in mind the size of some of the features. Going very small may make it difficult to cut smaller fonts or finer details.
Media
As mentioned earlier, it is very important to choose the correct media to for your cut. There is a huge selection to choose from and it can be overwhelming. Be sure to use the materials suggested by your machine for the type of project you are completing.
Download ZIP FileCutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Width
Length
Handle – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
2.50
9.00
D-Ring Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
4.00
6.00
Size Small
Bottom Side – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 1
5.50
21.00
Top Side – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 2
2.75
22.00
Size Large
Bottom Side – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 1
5.50
22.90
Top Side – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing OR Batting cut 2
2.75
24.20
Strap 1
Strap – Fabric cut 2
3.50
13.00
Batting – Cut 2
1.25
13.00
Webbing – Cut 2
1.00
12.00
Strap 2
Strap – Fabric cut 2
3.50
27.00
Batting – Cut 2
1.25
27.00
Webbing – Cut 2
1.00
12.00
Strap 3
Strap – Fabric cut 2
3.50
36.00
Batting – Cut 2
1.25
36.00
Webbing – Cut 2
1.00
12.00
Alien OPTION: OPTIONAL Pouch Pockets – Fabric cut 3
3.50
7.00
OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket
Pocket – Lining cut 1
8.00
10.50
Rectangle – Fabric cut 1
2.00
8.00
OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket – Zipper Tab – Fabric cut 1
2.00
3.00
Cutting Checklist:
OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket:
NOTE – If you are using fusible webbing, do not cut any of the pieces requiring this out yet. Place the fabric for these pieces aside. You will be cutting these in the preparation step. If you are using fabric glue, cut each piece out as per the instructions, then use the fabric glue instead of fusible webbing as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cat OPTION:
Penguin OPTION:
Alien OPTION:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Cut Files:
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL FUSIBLE WEBBING – Trace pattern pieces onto fusible webbing. Roughly cut around. Group into backpack option, and iron the interfacing to the fabric following manufacturer’s instructions. Cut pieces out. CAT OPTION: Press Pupils to Eyes, Inner Ears to Outer Ears, Paw Fingers and Soles to Outer Paws, Eyes to Main Front, Nose to Main Front and Outer Paws onto OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket or Main Front. ALIEN OPTION: Press Pupils to Eyes and Eyes to Main Front. PENGUIN OPTION: Press Pupils to Eye.
- OPTIONAL INTERFACING – Iron interfacing onto the wrong side of your pattern pieces.
- OPTIONAL BATTING – Place your cut out pattern pieces onto the batting. Pin in place. Cut the batting bigger than the pattern piece if you intend to quilt the piece.
- OPTIONAL PERSONALIZATION – Add applique, vinyl, or fabric paints to pieces as desired.
- CAT OPTION – Stitch around the Eyes, Pupils, Nose, and Inner Ears using a zigzag stitch or blanket stitch. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket, stitch around each Outer and Inner Paw. Machine or hand embroider whiskers and mouth. Stitch two Outer Ear pieces right sides together, leaving bottom open. Trim the top corner. Turn and press. OPTIONAL Topstitch the outside edges. Repeat for second Ear. Baste Ears onto Main Front at pattern markings, right sides together, matching raw edges. OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket – Zigzag Outer Paws onto Main Buggy Pocket Bottom.
- ALIEN OPTION – Stitch around the Eyes, and Pupils using a zigzag stitch or blanket stitch. Place two Antennas right sides together. Pin. Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim. Turn and press. Stuff Antennae. Repeat for second Antenna. Place Antennae onto Main Front right sides together. Pin. Baste. OPTIONAL Pouch Pocket, Fold Pouch Pocket in half widthwise, right sides together. Pin. Start at folded edge, stitch leaving a gap. Snip corners. Turn and press. Topstitch. Repeat with the other three Pouch Pockets. Place Pouch Pockets onto Main Front at pattern markings right sides together. Pin. OPTIONAL Topstitch along sides and bottom edges.
- PENGUIN OPTION – Place two Beak pieces right sides together. Pin, leaving top open. Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim point corner. Turn and press. OPTIONAL Topstitch sewn edges. Find and mark center of the Beak and Front Top straight edge. Lay Main Front Top right side up. Place Beak down right sides together, matching centers. Pin. Place Main Front Bottom onto the Main Front Top. Pin. Stitch. Open up, press seam allowance up and Beak down. Stitch in ditch along top edge of Beak. OPTIONAL Stitch in ditch across full seam. Press Eyes onto Front Top at pattern markings. OPTIONAL Batting Place Main Front onto batting. Pin. Stitch around Eyes and Pupils using a zigzag stitch or blanket stitch. Place two Tummy pieces right sides together. Pin. Stitch leaving a 2 inch gap. Trim. Snip corners and clip curves. Turn. Topstitch top edge. Place Pouch Pocket onto Main Front Bottom at pattern markings. Pin. Topstitch curved edges. Place two Wings right sides together. Pin. Stitch curved edge using ¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat for second Wing. Snip pointy corner. Turn and press. OPTIONAL Topstitch sewn edges. Find and mark center of the Wing and Main Bottom Side piece. Place Wing onto Main Bottom Side right sides together, matching centers. Pin. Baste. Repeat for the second Wing and Main Bottom. Place two Feet right sides together. Pin. Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat for second Wing. Snip pointy corners and clip curves. Turn and press. Repeat for second Foot. OPTIONAL Push stuffing inside foot. Place feet onto the Main Front Bottom right sides together at pattern markings. Pin. Baste.
- OPTIONAL QUILTING – Quilt the Main and batting pieces together. Cut the batting to the same size as the pattern piece. Repeat for all the pieces with batting. OPTIONAL Baste the Main and batting pieces together along the outer edges.
- OPTIONAL BUGGY POCKET – Match the long edges of the Zipper Tab and fold in half, press. Open the tab up, fold the long edges into the center, press. Refold on the center edge, trim the zipper ends, slide the zipper end between the folded edges of the zipper tab, topstitch. Trim the zipper tab. Repeat for the opposite side of the zipper. Find and mark the center of the Main and Lining Buggy Pocket Top and Bottom pieces. Lay the Main Buggy Pocket Top right side facing up. Place the zipper right side down matching center points. Pin. Place the Buggy Pocket Top Lining piece on top right side down, matching centers. Pin. Stitch along the zipper tape using a ¼ inch seam allowance starting and stopping ½ inch away from each edge. Flip the Main fabric over so wrong sides are together. Press. OPTIONAL Topstitch along zipper tape. Repeat for Main and Lining Buggy Pocket Bottom pieces. Take the bottom straight edge of the Main and fold it up, right sides together. Pin. Start from the inside, stitch. Repeat on the other three corners of the Main Pocket and Pocket Lining. Press. Place Main and Lining pieces together matching corners. Fold raw edges of Main Pocket ½ inch to wrong side. Press creating a memory hem. Repeat for the Lining Pocket. Trim corners. Pin Main and Lining raw edges. Baste Main and Lining together. Lay Main Front right side up. Place Buggy Pocket using pattern as placement guide. Pin. Topstitch Pocket using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
- OPTIONAL ZIPPER POCKET – Lay Main Front piece right side facing up. Place the Rectangle on top, right sides together matching pattern markings. Pin. Stitch around Rectangle. Draw a line down the center of the rectangle and a line into each corner. Snip the lines. Push the Rectangle through the opening. Press. OPTIONAL Topstitch the Rectangle with ¼ inch seam allowance. Place zipper behind opening. Pin. Topstitch around opening using ⅛ inch seam allowance. Trim zipper tails. Turn Main Front wrong side facing up. Place Pocket piece right side down matching one short edge to bottom long edge of the Rectangle. Pin. Stitch. Flip Pocket down. Place the bottom short edge onto the top long edge. Pin. Stitch. OPTIONAL – Finish raw edges of the Pocket. Repeat to add Zipper Pocket to the Back.
- HANDLE – Match the long edges of the Handle and fold in half, press. Open the tab up, fold the long edges into the center, press. Refold on the center edge, topstitch. ADULTS BACKPACK Find and mark the center of the Main Back piece. Measure 5/8 inch from this point on either side. Place each end of the Handle at this point, right sides together. Pin. Baste.
- STRAPS – Fold a Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Place the batting onto one wrong side of the Strap. Pin. Turn the Strap right side facing up. Place a webbing piece along the center fold. Fold the Strap right sides together. Pin the short edge with webbing and the long raw edge. Stitch pinned edges, reinforce the short edge. Snip corner. Turn right side out and press. OPTIONAL Topstitch the long edges using 1/8 inch seam allowance. Stitch down the center of the Strap. OPTIONAL Stitch additional lines down the Strap. SMALL BACKPACK Find and mark the center of the Main Back. Place a Strap on either side. Pin. Baste. Place each end of the Handle at the center of the Straps. Pin. Baste. LARGE BACKPACK Place the Straps onto the Main Back 2 inches from the center on either side. Pin. Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim corners of the Straps.
- D-RING TABS – Fold a D-Ring Tab in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edge. Turn and press. OPTIONAL Topstitch long edges. Thread the D-Ring Tab through the D-Ring. Fold in half, Pin. OPTIONAL Topstitch close to the D-ring. Repeat for the second D-Ring Tab. Place the D-Ring Tabs onto the Main Back piece, right sides together at pattern markings. Pin. Baste.
- MAIN ZIPPER – Find and mark the center of the zipper, Main and Lining Top Side pieces. Lay the Main Top Side right side facing up. Place the zipper on top right side facing down, matching centers. Pin. Place the Top Side Lining right side facing down, matching centers. Pin. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Flip Main piece over, wrong sides of Main Top Side and Top Side Lining will be together. Press. OPTIONAL Topstitch along zipper tape. Repeat to attach the other Main and Lining Top to the other side of the zipper. Press the long edge of both sides of the Top Side Lining.
- BACKPACK CONSTRUCTION – Place a Main Bottom Side and the Main Top Side right sides together. Pin one side along the short edge. Stitch. Repeat to attach the other side of the Top and Bottom pieces together. Find and mark the center on both raw edges of the Main Top Side and Main Bottom Side. Find and mark the center of the top and bottom of the Main Back. Place the Side piece onto the Main Back, right sides together matching the center points. Pin. Stitch. Find and mark the center of the top and bottom of the Main Front. Open the zipper on the Side piece. Place the Side piece onto the Main Front, right sides together matching the center points. Pin. Stitch. Clip along curves. Turn.
- LINING – Create memory hem on Bottom Side Lining short sides. Find and mark center of one long edge. Find and mark the center of the Front and Back Lining pieces along the bottom edge. Place the Bottom Lining and Front Lining right sides together, match center points at bottom edge. Pin. Stitch starting and stopping ½ inch from each end. Repeat to attach other long edge of the Side Lining to the Back Lining. Find and mark the center of the Top Side Lining and the top edge of the Front Lining. Place the Main Backpack inside the Lining right sides together, matching top centers. Pin the Top Side Lining and Front Lining together. Stitch. Clip curved edges. Flip Lining up and inside the backpack. Take Long edges of the Top Side Lining and Back Lining placing them right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Turn right side out with Lining inside. Place short edges of the Bottom Lining onto the short edges of the Top Side Lining. Pin. Slipstitch the gaps closed.
- ADJUSTABLE STRAPS – Thread the webbing through the slider. Thread the webbing through the D-Ring, then back through the slider. Fold end of webbing over by ½ inch. Repeat. Stitch.
- Pupils to Eyes
- Inner Ears to Outer Ears
- Paw Fingers and Soles to Outer Paws
- Eyes to Main Front
- Nose to Main Front
- Pupils to Eyes
- Eyes to Main Front
- Pupils to Eye
- Cat
- Step 1
- Alien
- Step 2
- Penguin
- Step 3
- If you have added batting and would like to quilt
- Step 4
- Buggy Pocket
- Step 5
- Zipper Pocket
- Step 6
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet¼ – ½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
¼ - ½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing
Trace the pattern pieces for all the animal details you are using onto the backing of your fusible webbing. Write what each piece is on the paper side of the fusible webbing.
NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored).
Cut roughly around the fusible webbing for each pattern piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the fusible webbing has been attached to the fabric.
Group the fusible webbing pieces into colors (e.g. put all of the oranges together, all of the white together, and so on).
Keeping pieces grouped by color, apply the fusible webbing to your fabric pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using fusible webbing.
Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.
0.3CAT OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket, press the Outer Paws onto the Main Front, then skip to the Batting preparation step if adding, or to step 1.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket, follow below.
0.4OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket – Press the Outer Paw onto the Buggy Pocket Bottom at the pattern markings.
0.5ALIEN OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.
0.6PENGUIN OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.
NOTE – You will press the Eyes onto the Front Top after you have attached the Beak. Skip to step 3.
0.7OPTIONAL Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron interfacing onto the wrong side of your pattern pieces.
0.8OPTIONAL Batting
Place your cut out pattern pieces onto the batting. Pin in place.
NOTE – Do not leave any unpinned areas bigger than your palm. This will hold the layers together ready for quilting.
Cut the batting bigger than the pattern piece.
Penguin OPTION: NOTE – You will need to cut the batting for the Front of the Penguin after you have constructed the Front piece in the steps below. Skip to step 3.
0.9OPTIONAL Personalization
If you would like to add decorations to a plain version, add this to your Main Front and OPTIONAL Main Buggy Pocket Bottom pieces. You can applique, use fabric paints or even vinyl.
NOTE – You will need to keep a ½ inch seam allowance so remember to keep this in mind when placing your decorations.
0.10Choose the style you would like to sew and begin at that step.
OPTIONS
Step number
1 . Cat OPTION1.1Stitch around the Eyes, Pupils and Nose using a zigzag stitch or blanket stitch.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket, stitch around each Outer and Inner Paw.
NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.
NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.
TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.
1.2Machine embroider the Cat whiskers and mouth using the pattern markings and a contrasting thread. Alternatively, hand stitch the whiskers using backstitches.
To backstitch by hand, thread the needle and attach it to the wrong side of the Front.
Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.
Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.
Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.
Push the needle back into the same hole, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.
Repeat the previous steps creating a length of backstitches as desired.
1.3Repeat step 1.1 to stitch around the Inner Ear on an Outer Ear piece.
NOTE – This will now be treated as one Outer Ear piece.
1.4Place the two Outer Ear pieces right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – Check you are attaching one Outer Ear with an Inner Ear, and one without. Do not attach two of the same together.
1.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving the bottom edge open for turning through.
1.6Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Trim the top corner to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
1.7Turn right side out and press.
1.8OPTIONAL – Topstitch the outside edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.8 for the second Ear.
1.9Place the Ears onto the Main Front piece at the pattern markings, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
1.10Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket, skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting or to step 7.
1.11OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket – Zigzag the Outer Paws onto the Main Buggy Pocket Bottom piece.
Skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting. If you are adding an OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket to the Back, skip to step 5. Or skip to step 7 for the Handle.
2 . Alien OPTION2.1Stitch around the Eyes and Pupils using a zigzag stitch or blanket stitch.
NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.
NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.
TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.
2.2Place two Antennas right sides together. Pin.
2.3Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.4Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
Clip into the curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
2.5Turn right side out and press.
2.6Place some stuffing inside the Antennae.
TIP – Use a blunt object e.g. a chopstick to help push the stuffing inside.
TIP – If you do not have stuffing, you can tear some batting into small pieces and use this instead.
Repeat steps 2.2 to 2.6 for the second Antenna.
2.7Place the Antennae onto the Main Front piece at the pattern markings, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
2.8Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Pouch Pockets, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Pouch Pockets, skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting or to step 5 for the OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.
2.9OPTIONAL Pouch Pocket – Fold a Pouch Pocket in half widthwise, right sides together. Pin.
2.10Starting at the folded edge, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 1-inch gap on one side for turning out.
2.11Snip the corners to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
2.12Turn out the Pouch Pocket right side out and press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
TIP – Pin the gap closed. This will be stitched closed when topstitching the Pouch Pocket onto the Main Front.
2.13OPTIONAL – Topstitch the folded top edge using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2.14Repeat steps 2.9 to 2.13 with the other three Pouch Pockets.
2.15Place the Pouch Pockets onto Main Front at the pattern markings, right sides together. Pin.
2.16Topstitch the sides and bottom edge using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and at the end.
NOTE – Do not stitch the top edge.
Skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting or to step 5 for the OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.
3 . Penguin OPTION3.1Place two Beak pieces right sides together. Pin the sides leaving the top open.
3.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.3Trim the pointy end to reduce bulk.
3.4Turn the Beak right sides out and press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
3.5OPTIONAL – Topstitch the sewn edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.6Find and mark the center of the Beak and the Front Top straight edge.
3.7Lay the Main Front Top right side facing up. Place the Beak down, right sides together, matching centers and raw edges. Pin.
3.8Place the Main Front Bottom onto the Main Front Top sandwiching the Beak and matching straight raw edges. Pin.
3.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.10Open up the two pieces and press the seam allowance up towards the Main Front Top and the Beak down towards the Main Front Bottom.
3.11Stitching along the top edge of the Beak, directly over the stitches from the step above. This is called ‘stitching in the ditch’. The stitching should not be visible.
OPTIONAL – Stitch in the ditch across the full seam between the Top and Bottom pieces.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
3.12Press the Eyes onto the Front Top at the pattern markings.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Batting, follow below. If you are not adding OPTIONAL Batting, skip to step 3.14.
3.13OPTIONAL Batting – Place your Main Front onto the batting. Pin in place.
NOTE – Do not leave any unpinned areas bigger than your palm. This will hold the layers together ready for quilting.
Cut the batting bigger than the Front piece.
3.14Stitch around the Eyes and Pupils using a zigzag stitch or blanket stitch.
NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.
NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.
TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.
3.15Place two Tummy pieces right sides together. Pin.
3.16Stitch them using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch gap on one side for turning out.
3.17Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
Snip the corners to reduce bulk. Clip into the curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
3.18Turn right sides out and press.
TIP – Pin the gap closed. This will be stitched closed when topstitching the Tummy onto the Main Front.
3.19OPTIONAL – Topstitch the top edge using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.20Place the Tummy Pocket onto the Main Front Bottom at the pattern markings, lifting the Beak up. Pin.
TIP – Pin the Beak to the Main Front Top to keep it out of the way and prevent it getting caught when stitching the Tummy Pocket.
3.21Topstitch the curved edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, closing the gap. Backstitch at the beginning and at the end.
NOTE – Do not stitch the top edge of the Tummy Pocket.
3.22Place two Wings right sides together. Pin.
3.23Stitch the curved edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch the top edge of the Wing.
Repeat steps 3.20 to 3.23 for the other Wing.
3.24Snip the pointy corners to reduce bulk and clip into the curved edges, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
3.25Turn right side out and press.
3.26OPTIONAL– Topstitch the sewn edges using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.27Find and mark the center of the Wing and a Main Bottom Side piece.
3.28Place a Wing onto the Main Bottom Side, right sides together, matching centers. Pin.
3.29Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 3.22 to 3.29 for the second Wing, attaching it to the other side of the Main Bottom piece.
3.30Repeat steps 3.22 to 3.25 to create two Feet.
NOTE – Do not topstitch the Feet.
If you are adding stuffing to your Feet, follow below. If you are not adding stuffing to your Feet, skip to step 3.32.
3.31OPTIONAL Stuffing – Push some stuffing inside the Foot.
TIP – Use a blunt object e.g. a chopstick to help push the stuffing inside.
TIP – If you do not have stuffing, you can tear some batting into small pieces and use this instead.
3.32Place the Feet onto the Main Front Bottom, right sides together at the pattern markings, matching raw edges. Pin.
3.33Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
Skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting. If you are adding an OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket to the Back, skip to step 6. Or skip to step 7 for the Handle.
4 . OPTIONAL Quilting4.0We recommend quilting your batting to your fabric pieces to prevent them from moving. If you do not wish to quilt, skip to step 4.3 to baste the pieces together, or skip to step 5 for the OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket, step 6 for the OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket or to step 7.
4.1This is not traditional quilting – you will not be sandwiching the batting in between two layers and quilting it together. You are only quilting the batting to one pattern piece to prevent it from moving.
Quilt the Main and batting pieces together using your chosen design.
Be careful not to stitch into the rectangle of the zip pocket if you are doing Alien Bag.
NOTE – We have shown a Cat OPTION with OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket in these photos. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket the Paws will be stitched on.
TIP – If you are sewing the Cat, Alien or Penguin OPTIONS, you may not want to quilt the Front pieces. If you do quilt, be careful not to quilt over any of the features, pockets, or pocket markings/placements. Make sure any features like the Feet, Ears or Antennae are out of the way.
4.2Cut your batting to the same size as the pattern piece.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 for all pieces with batting.
4.3OPTIONAL – Baste the Main and batting pieces together at the outer edges, as close as you can to the raw edge.
5 . OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket5.0This Pocket can be added to a plain version or the Cat OPTION.
5.1If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!
Fold the Zipper Tab in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, matching the long raw edges. Press.
TIP – Do not use a thick fabric for the Zipper Tab as it can be tricky to stitch and attach to the Zipper.
5.2Open the Zipper Tab then fold both long raw edges to the center. Press.
5.3Refold along the center edge, placing all raw edges inside.
5.4Trim the tails of the zipper end so that your zipper measures 8 inches in length.
NOTE – The finished zipper (i.e., with zipper ends added) is 1 inch shorter than the Buggy Pocket pattern piece.
Stitch a bar tack to close the zipper.
5.5Slide one end of the zipper in between the folded edges of the Zipper Tab. Pin.
5.6Topstitch using an ⅛ inch seam allowance along the folded edge of the Zipper Tab. Stitch slowly over the zipper teeth.
NOTE – If using a metal zipper go very slowly over the zipper teeth to make sure the needle doesn’t hit the metal. The needle can bend or break if it hits the metal zipper teeth.
5.7Trim the Zipper Tab to just a little wider than the zipper tape.
5.8Using the remaining piece of the Zipper Tab, repeat steps 5.5 to 5.7 to attach it to the opposite side of the zipper.
5.9Find and mark the center of the zipper.
5.10Find and mark the center of the Main and Lining Buggy Pocket Top and Bottom pieces.
5.11Lay the Main Buggy Pocket Top right side facing up. Place the zipper right side down, matching center points. Pin.
TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting while sewing, apply washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.
NOTE – Zipper tape comes in various widths. This pattern has a ¼ inch seam allowance along the zipper edge. If your zipper tape varies from that shown in the tutorial, align the edge of your fabric so you are able to take the full seam allowance without your stitches being too close to the zipper teeth.
5.12Place the Buggy Pocket Top Lining piece on top, right side down, matching centers. Pin.
They will now be layered in this order: Main facing up, zipper facing down, Lining facing down.
5.13Using a zipper foot, stitch along the zipper tape, using ¼ inch seam allowance, starting and stopping ½ inch away from each edge.
5.14Flip the Main fabric over, so wrong sides of the Buggy Pocket pieces are now together. Press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch along the zipper tape, ⅛ inch from the seam, leaving ½ inch on either side.
5.15Repeat steps 5.10 to 5.14 for the Main and Lining Buggy Pocket Bottom pieces.
5.16Take the bottom straight edge of the Main and fold it up, right sides together, matching straight edges. Pin.
5.17Starting from the inside, stitch them together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.18Repeat steps 5.16 to 5.17 on the other three corners of the Main Buggy Pocket Bottom and Main Buggy Pocket Top.
5.19Repeat steps 5.16 to 5.18 with the Buggy Pocket Lining.
5.20Press the seam allowances to the side.
TIP – Press the Lining seam allowance and the Main seam allowance to opposite sides to reduce bulk.
5.21Place the Main and Lining pieces together, matching corners.
5.22Fold the raw edges of the Main Buggy Pocket ½ inch to the wrong side and press, creating a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Pocket. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when stitching it onto the backpack.
5.23Repeat step 5.22 with the Lining Buggy Pocket.
5.24Trim the corners to reduce bulk.
5.25Pin the Main and Lining raw edges together.
5.26Baste the Main and Lining together using a ¼ inch (or smaller) seam allowance.
5.27Lay the Main Front right side facing up. Place the Buggy Pocket on top, right side facing up, 1 ½ inches from the bottom edge, centering it. Pin.
NOTE – This step is very fiddly. Take your time when pinning and check that you have pinned both the Main and Lining Pocket to the Main Front.
5.28Topstitch the Pocket using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
If you are adding an OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket to the Front or Back, follow below. If you are not adding an OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket, skip to step 7.
6 . OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket6.0This pocket can be added to the front of a plain or Alien OPTION. You can also add it to the Back of any option. These steps show how to attach the Zipper Pocket to the Front. If you are only attaching it to the Back, follow the same steps but using the Main Back piece instead of the Main Front.
6.1Lay the Main Front piece right side facing up. Place the Rectangle on top, right sides together, matching pattern markings. Pin.
6.2Stitch around the Rectangle.
TIP – When you reach a corner, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the pieces. Lower the presser foot and stitch down the short side.
6.3Draw a line down the center of the rectangle, stopping ½ inch from each end.
6.4Draw a line connecting the end of the straight line to each corner, creating Y shapes at each end of the line.
6.5Carefully snip through both layers along the middle line, then the corners on each end. Take careful, slow snips to the corners, getting close to the stitches without cutting through them.
6.6Push the Rectangle through the opening and press until the Front lays smooth and flat. Pin.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Rectangle in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will keep the seam allowance in place and can be especially helpful if you are using a heavy weight or faux leather fabric.
6.7Place the zipper behind the opening created. Pin.
TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting while sewing, apply washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.
6.8Topstitch around the opening using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Stitch slowly over the zipper teeth.
NOTE – Check you have stitched the little triangles at the end of the Rectangle when topstitching.
If needed, trim the zipper tails.
6.9Turn the Main Front wrong side facing up. Place the Pocket piece right side down matching one short edge to the bottom long edge of the Rectangle piece. Pin.
NOTE – You are only pinning the Zipper Pocket and Zipper Pocket Rectangle pieces together.
6.10Stitch the pinned edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Only sew the Pocket pieces together. Check to be sure the Main Front hasn’t been caught in the stitching.
6.11Flip the Pocket down. Place the bottom short edge of the Zipper Pocket onto the top long edge of the Rectangle, right side down. Pin.
Pin the side edges of the Pocket together.
6.12Stitch the pinned edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You are only sewing the Pocket pieces together. Check you have not caught the Main Front into the stitching.
OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edges of the Pocket using a serger or zigzag/overlock stitch on a regular machine.
If you are adding a Zipper Pocket to the Back, repeat steps 6.1 to 6.12 to attach the Pocket to the Main Back.
7 . Handle7.1If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!
Fold the Handle in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.
7.2Open the Handle then fold the two long sides into the middle and press.
7.3Refold the Handle along the center edge, folding the raw edges to the inside. Pin.
7.4Topstitch the open long edges using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the other long edge.
If you are sewing a child’s backpack, skip to step 8. If you are sewing an adult backpack, follow below.
7.5ADULTS BACKPACK – Find and mark the center of the Main Back piece.
Measure ⅝ inch from this point on either side. Place each end of the Handle at this point, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
TIP – Check your Handle isn’t twisted.
7.6Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8 . Straps8.1Fold a Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Finger press the Strap to create a temporary center line. Open it back up.
8.2Batting – Place the batting onto one wrong side of the Strap. Pin.
8.3Turn the Strap right side facing up. Place a webbing piece onto the right side of the Strap, placing it along the centerfold, and lining it up with one short end of the Strap.
TIP – Pin the long edge closest to the long raw edge of the Strap to keep it in place and out of the way of the seam allowance.
8.4Fold the Strap right sides together. Pin the short edge with webbing and the long raw edge.
The Strap will be right sides together with the webbing sandwiched in between and the batting on the wrong side (outside).
8.5Stitch these sides using a ½ inch seam allowance. Go back and forth on the short edge 3-4 times to secure this seam.
NOTE – Check you have not stitched the long edge of the webbing into the seam allowance.
8.6Snip the corner to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
8.7Turn right side out and press.
TIP – Be careful when pressing, as webbing and some batting types can easily melt.
8.8OPTIONAL – Topstitch the long edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
8.9Stitch down the center of the Strap to keep the batting in place.
OPTIONAL – Stitch additional lines. The more stitching you add, the firmer the Strap will be.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.9 for the other Strap.
If you are sewing the small backpack, follow below. If you are sewing the large backpack, skip to step 8.14.
8.10SMALL BACKPACK – Find and mark the center of the Main Back. Place a Strap on either side. Pin.
8.11Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8.12Place each end of the Handle at the center of the Straps. Pin.
NOTE – Check the Handle isn’t twisted.
8.13Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Skip to step 9.
8.14LARGE BACKPACK – Place the Straps onto the Main Back 2 inches from the center on either side. Pin.
8.15Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8.16Trim the corners of the Straps.
9 . D-Ring Tabs9.1Fold a D-Ring Tab in half lengthwise right sides together and pin the long edge.
9.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.3Turn your D-Ring Tab right way out and press.
9.4OPTIONAL – Topstitch one or both long sides of the D-Ring Tab using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
9.5Thread the D-Ring Tab through your D-ring. Fold it in half. Pin.
9.6OPTIONAL – Topstitch close to the D-ring to keep it in place.
Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.6 for the second D-Ring Tab.
9.7Place the D-ring Tabs onto the Main Back piece, right sides together, at the pattern markings. Pin.
9.8Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
10 . Main Zipper10.1Find and mark the center of your zipper, Main and Lining Top Side pieces.
10.2Place the Main Top Side with the right side facing up, and lay the zipper on top, right side facing down, matching centers. Pin.
NOTE – The zipper teeth should start ½ inch from the edge.
TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.
10.3Place the Top Side Lining right side facing down, matching centers and the raw edge with the zipper tape. Pin.
They will now be layered in this order: Main facing up, zipper facing down, Lining facing down.
10.4Using a zipper foot, stitch along the zipper tape, using ¼ inch seam allowance.
10.5Flip the Main piece over, so the wrong sides of the Main Top Side and Top Side Lining are facing. Press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch along the zipper tape, ⅛ inch from the fabric edge.
10.6Repeat steps 10.2 to 10.5 to attach the other Main and Lining Top side pieces to the other side of the zipper.
NOTE – Depending on the width of your zipper, the Top Side piece might be wider than 5 ½ inches. This means it won’t match up with the Bottom Side piece. In this case, trim the long raw edges evenly on each side so that it is the correct size.
NOTE – If your zipper is longer than the Top Side pieces, trim it so that it is the same size.
Press the long edges on both sides of the Top Side Lining ½ inch to the wrong side. This will make it easier to slipstitch to the backpack later on.
11 . Backpack Construction11.1Place a Main Bottom Side and the Main Top Side right sides together. Pin one side at the short edge.
11.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.2 to attach the other side of the Top and Bottom pieces together, until you have one Side piece.
11.3Find and mark the center on both raw edges of the Main Top Side and Main Bottom Side.
Find and mark the center of the top and bottom of the Main Back.
11.4Place the Main Side piece onto the Main Back, right sides together, matching center points. Pin.
NOTE – Check that the Side Lining, Straps, Handle and D-Ring Tabs are out of the way so that they do not get stitched into the seam.
11.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
11.6Find and mark the center of the top and bottom of the Main Front.
Open the zipper on the Side piece. You will need this opening for turning the backpack.
Repeat steps 11.5 to 11.6 to attach the other side of the Side piece to the Main Front.
11.7Clip into the curved edges, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
11.8Turn right sides out through the opening of the zipper.
12 . Lining12.1Fold the Bottom Side Lining ½ inch to the wrong side on both short sides. Press to create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Lining. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when stitching it together.
12.2Find and mark the center of one long edge.
12.3Find and mark the center of the Front and Back Lining pieces at the bottom edge.
12.4Place the Bottom Lining and Front Lining right sides together, matching center points at the bottom edge of the Front Lining. Pin.
12.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, starting and stopping ½ inch from each end.
12.6Repeat steps 12.4 to 12.5 to attach the other long edge of the Side Lining to the Back Lining.
12.7Find and mark the center of the Top Side Lining and the top edge of the Front Lining.
12.8Place the Main Backpack inside the Lining, right sides together, matching top centers. Pin the Top Side Lining and Front Lining together.
12.9Stitch along the memory hem, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
12.10Clip into the curved edges, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
12.11Flip the Lining up and inside the backpack.
12.12Take the long raw edges of the Top Side Lining (with pressed edge) and the Back Lining and place them right sides together. Pin from the bottom of the Top Side Lining up, pushing the backpack inside, pinning together as far as you can. There will be a gap at the other side.
NOTE – Depending on your fabric type this gap may end up being quite large.
12.13Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Turn the backpack right way out with the Lining pushed inside.
12.14Place the short edges of the Bottom Lining onto the short edges of the Top Side Lining. Pin.
12.15We will be using a slipstitch (or ladder stitch) to close the gap.
Thread a needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to the finished seam. Push the needle up through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the Lining to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.
The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.
Repeat to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.
To end, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.
Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.
Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the pouch so that the tail is now hidden inside.
NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.
12.16Slipstitch the gap left in between the Top Side Lining and Back Lining.
13 . Adjustable Straps13.1Thread the webbing through each side of the slider.
13.2Thread the end of the webbing through the D-Ring.
13.3Then thread it back through both sides of the slider.
Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.5 for the other Strap. Adjust as needed.
13.4Fold the end of the webbing over by ½ inch. Then again by ½ inch. Pin or clip in place.
Alternatively, finish the ends of the webbing pieces by burning the ends. This will stop it from fraying.
NOTE – Please be careful when using fire.
NOTE – If you have cotton webbing you cannot burn the ends.
13.5
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Cut Files
File Types
We have included three to four file types for you to choose from. Please choose whichever you are more familiar with or works best with your cutting machine. For cut files of the smaller pieces for some of our patterns, like the Dolls House Quiet Book and Add-on, we do not include a PDF copy. All versions come with .SVG, .PNG, and .DXF.
You will start by downloading the files from your account. Open your software and choose the file type you’d like to work with.
Pattern Cut Files
When working with cut files to cut small pattern pieces, it is imperative that you make sure the file is the correct size prior to cutting. We have included a one-inch square box offset in each file. You should be able to move the square off to the side, so it isn’t cut with the rest of your file. For files that also have square pieces, please be sure to compare them to the cut chart in the original file instructions. We’d always prefer you double check than have something cut out that isn’t useable!
Other Cut Files
For all other cut files, you should resize to your project needs. Please do keep in mind the size of some of the features. Going very small may make it difficult to cut smaller fonts or finer details.
Media
As mentioned earlier, it is very important to choose the correct media to for your cut. There is a huge selection to choose from and it can be overwhelming. Be sure to use the materials suggested by your machine for the type of project you are completing.
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Kids Zoo Backpack is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpzoobackpack.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing Information
Project Overview
Kids Zoo Backpack
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This fully lined backpack has two sizes and multiple animal options to choose from; alien, cat or penguin. The straps are adjustable, with two additional strap length options suitable for adults. Add an optional zipper or buggy pocket to the front and a zipper pocket to the back for lots of storage space. The penguin tummy creates a pouch pocket.
Sizing
Size Range
S, L
Finished Measurements (Inches)
|
Width |
Height |
Depth |
|
|
S |
9.0 |
13.0 |
4.5 |
|
L |
10.0 |
14.4 |
4.5 |
There are three strap lengths to choose from. We recommend using strap 1 for a child’s backpack. Use strap 2 or 3 for an adult, based on personal preference and how the adult would like to wear the backpack. The straps are all adjustable.
Materials and Tools
Fabric – You will need a woven or non-stretch fabric. Cotton, quilting cotton, denim, cotton lawn, canvas, even upholstery fabric would work. You could use a faux leather/leather or suede, but you will need the correct machine and needle to work with this fabric as there are a lot of layers that need sewing together.
Lining fabric – It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin. If your main fabric is not too thick, you could also use this for the lining.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
NOTE – For webbing pieces you can use any width from 1 – 1.25 inches wide. Remember to use the same width sliders where needed. The D-ring can be the same size or wider than the webbing.
- 2x 1.5 inch wide D-ring
- 2x Sliders (same width as your webbing)
- Straps:
- 1 – 1.25 inch wide Webbing. 30 inches in will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Padding – You can use a wadding, batting or even a fleece to pad the Straps – approximately 0.75 – 2 yards will be sufficient
- 1x Zipper:
- Small – 22 inches long
- Large – 25 inches long
- OPTIONAL Penguin / Alien – You will need a handful of stuffing
- OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket – 1x 7 inch zipper per pocket
- NOTE – You can add one to the plain or Alien OPTION on the front, and one to the back.
- OPTIONAL Buggy Pocket – 1 x 8 inch zipper
- NOTE – You can add one to the plain or Cat OPTION.
- OPTIONAL Batting / Interfacing – You can add interfacing to all pieces or batting to all pieces except the pockets. If you are using a light weight fabric (e.g., quilting cotton) for the backpack, you will need to add batting/interfacing to stabilize it. If you are using a heavy weight fabric this is not needed. You will need approximately 1.5 – 2.5 yards.
- OPTIONAL Fusible webbing e.g., Pellon 805 Wonder-Under, ‘heat n bond’, ‘bondaweb’, fusible web or iron-on adhesive. You will need this if you are making the Cat, Alien or Penguin. Approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient. Alternatively, you can use fabric glue to stick your pieces down.
- Cat OPTION – Embroidery thread for the cat’s whiskers
- OPTIONAL Personalisation – vinyl, fabric paints, scrap of fabric for applique
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, optional washaway sewing tape, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.