Progress Menu
x
Home / Childrens / Dress Up and Costume, Garments
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
11
Lab Coat
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This lab coat is a great addition to your child’s dress-up collection. Use it to create a coat for a Doctor, Veterinarian, Nurse, Scientist, Chef, and more. Add optional pockets, back vent, and mock belt for an authentic lab coat. Or, add contrasting stripes for a firefighter.
We’ve created cut files to add extra details to your lab coat such as a stethoscope, beaker, syringe, and more. The possibilities are endless. Let your imagination run wild!
Not a member yet? Click here to sign up
- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. See the note about grading if your child falls into a different size for height.
- Grading – Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different. If your child falls into a different size for height, use the bodice length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together so the chest, armhole, shoulders and across back, work with the torso. This will give a better upper body fit.
- Length – Depending on the style of coat you are making, for example a fireman or police vest, you may wish to shorten the coat. Remember to adjust the back vent if you need it and check the placement of pockets and stripes.
- Muslin – A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the back, front and sleeves together and try on, pinning or clipping together across the center front. The goal is to check and make any personal fit adjustments.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 5 x 20mm Buttons (3x for front and 2x for optional mock belt)
- Light weight interfacing
- If you are adding the optional contrasting stripes you can use ribbon/trim/fluorescent banding instead of fabric. Any width you ‘d like however the finished width is approx. 1¼ inches for the top band and 2 inches for the bottom. 1mt will be more than enough to cover all stripes
- Thread to match
- Front – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Neck Facing:
- Fabric – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Interfacing – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Sleeve – cut 2 on fold
- Collar:
- Fabric – cut 2
- Interfacing – cut 1
- OPTIONAL Mock Belt – cut 1
- OPTIONAL Hanging Loop – cut 1
- OPTIONAL Top Pocket – cut 1
- OPTIONAL Pocket – cut 2
- OPTIONAL Contrasting Stripes:
- Front Top Stripe – cut 2
- Front Bottom Stripe – cut 2
- Back Top Stripe – cut 2
- Back Bottom Stripe – cut 2
- Sleeve Top Stripe – cut 2
- Sleeve Bottom Stripe – cut 2
Project OverviewLab Coat
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This lab coat is a great addition to your child’s dress up collection. Use it to create a coat for a Doctor, Veterinarian, Nurse, Scientist, Chef, and more. Add optional pockets, back vent, and mock belt for an authentic lab coat. Or, add contrasting stripes for a firefighter.
We’ve created cut files to add extra details to your lab coat such as a stethoscope, beaker, syringe, and more. The possibilities are endless. Let your imagination run wild!
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
2-12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Lengths
Front Crossed Over as Worn
Front Shoulder Seam to Hem
Sleeve
2 – 3 yrs
29.3
25.4
12.0
3 – 4 yrs
30.5
27.0
14.6
5 – 6 yrs
32.4
30.3
17.1
7 – 8 yrs
34.5
33.3
19.1
9 – 10 yrs
35.3
36.6
20.7
11 – 12 yrs
37.3
40.7
22.2
Fitting NotesThis lab coat is loose fitting and falls straight down from the chest to the hem. As this garment is not fitted at the waist, waist measurements aren’t needed. It’s drafted to wear over clothing as a dress up costume.
Materials and ToolsUse any lightweight woven fabric for your coat. 100% cotton is softer and cooler and will allow the fabric to “breathe”. Poplin, twill, and broadcloth are great options, or even a cotton/polyester blend.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Coat
OPTIONAL Mock Belt
OPTIONAL Pockets
OPTIONAL Contrasting Stripes
2 – 4 yrs
1.75
0.25
0.25
0.75
5 – 8 yrs
2.00
0.25
0.25
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
2.25
0.25
0.25
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
2.50
0.25
0.25
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Coat
OPTIONAL Mock Belt
OPTIONAL Pockets
OPTIONAL Contrasting Stripes
2 – 3 yrs
1.25
0.25
0.25
0.75
3 – 6 yrs
1.50
0.25
0.25
0.75
7 – 10 yrs
1.75
0.25
0.25
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
2.00
0.25
0.25
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, and a ruler.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Coat 2 – 3 yrs 2-5, 10-12, 15-22 3 – 4 yrs 2-5, 8, 10-12, 15-22 5 – 6 yrs 2-5, 8, 10-13, 15-22 7 – 8 yrs 2-6, 8, 10-13, 15-22 9 – 10 yrs 2-6, 8, 10-13, 15-22 11 – 12 yrs 2-8, 10-22 OPTIONAL Mock belt Hanging loop Stripes Pockets Flask Stethoscope Logos Chemistry beaker Microscope Titles Reflex hammer 26 16 23-24, 27-29 23, 25 30-31 32-34, 40-42, 46-48 35 37-38, 43 39, 44-45 36 43 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Coat 2 – 3 yrs 2-5, 10-12, 15-22 3 – 4 yrs 2-5, 8, 10-12, 15-22 5 – 6 yrs 2-5, 8, 10-13, 15-22 7 – 8 yrs 2-6, 8, 10-13, 15-22 9 – 10 yrs 2-6, 8, 10-13, 15-22 11 – 12 yrs 2-8, 10-22 OPTIONAL Mock belt Hanging loop Stripes Pockets Flask Stethoscope Logos Chemistry beaker Microscope Titles Reflex hammer 26 16 23-24, 27-29 23, 25 30-31 32-34, 40-42, 46-48 35 37-38, 43 39, 44-45 36 43 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:
Mock Belt
(cut 1)Hanging Loop
(cut 1)Sleeve Top Stripes
(cut 2)OPTIONAL
Top Pocket (cut 1)OPTIONAL
Pocket (cut 2)Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
2 – 3 yrs
4.0
7.7
5.0
2.0
2.3
10.2
4.2
4.4
6.0
7.7
3 – 4 yrs
4.0
8.1
5.0
2.0
2.3
10.4
4.2
4.4
6.0
7.7
5 – 6 yrs
4.0
8.3
5.0
2.0
2.3
11.4
4.2
4.4
6.0
7.7
7 – 8 yrs
4.0
8.7
5.0
2.0
2.3
12.2
4.2
4.4
6.0
7.7
9 – 10 yrs
4.0
9.1
5.0
2.0
2.3
13.0
4.2
4.4
6.0
7.7
11 – 12 yrs
4.0
9.4
5.0
2.0
2.3
13.6
4.2
4.4
6.0
7.7
Sleeve Top Stripes (cut 2)
Sleeve Bottom Stripes (cut 2)
Front Top Stripe
(cut 2)Front Bottom Stripe (cut 2)
Back Top Stripe
(cut 2)Back Bottom Stripe (cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
2 – 3 yrs
2.3
10.2
3.0
8.2
2.3
9.0
3.0
9.1
2.3
8.5
3.0
9.3
3 – 4 yrs
2.3
10.4
3.0
8.3
2.3
9.3
3.0
9.2
2.3
8.7
3.0
9.4
5 – 6 yrs
2.3
11.4
3.0
8.6
2.3
9.6
3.0
9.5
2.3
9.3
3.0
9.7
7 – 8 yrs
2.3
12.2
3.0
9.2
2.3
10.1
3.0
10.0
2.3
9.6
3.0
10.3
9 – 10 yrs
2.3
13.0
3.0
9.4
2.3
10.3
3.0
10.3
2.3
9.8
3.0
10.5
11 – 12 yrs
2.3
13.6
3.0
10
2.3
10.7
3.0
10.8
2.3
10.3
3.0
11.1
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk: notches, buttonholes, button placements, OPTIONAL Back Vent (marked at 5 inches from the hem on the pattern piece) and OPTIONAL Pocket placements.
- INTERFACING – Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron interfacing onto both Front Neck Facing pieces and one Collar piece.
- BACK AND SHOULDERS – Use french seams to sew the back pieces at the center back seam. Press seam allowance to the left. Sew OPTIONAL Hanging Loop and stitch to center back. Sew both front pieces to the back piece at the shoulder seam using a french seam. Press seam allowance to the back.
- OPTIONAL BACK VENT AND SHOULDERS – Use french seams to sew the back pieces together at the center back seam stopping at the vent marking. Press seam allowance to the left and press open vent seam allowance. Sew OPTIONAL Hanging Loop and stitch to center back. Clip into the seam allowance at the top of your vent. Fold and press vent seam allowance in half. Topstitch vent. Sew both Front pieces to the Back piece at the shoulder seam using a french seam. Press seam allowance to the Back.
- COLLAR AND FRONT FACING – Sew Collar pieces together along top edge and the first short edges on both sides. Trim seam allowance and clip corners. Turn right side out, pushing out corners. Press. Align the center of Collar with the center back seam. Sew along neckline. Press seam allowance up. Press facing ¼ inch to the wrong side along the inside curved edge and top short edge. Repeat. Topstitch long curved edge. Sew facing to Front and Collar. Trim seam allowance and clip top corner. Flip the facing and press. Repeat for the second facing. Press the Collar and Facing seam allowance up. Flip the Collar down and topstitch along the neckline. Topstitch Facing to coat at center fronts and around the Collar.
- OPTIONAL CONTRASTING STRIPES – Fold and press the bottom Sleeve stripe along the length ½ inch to the wrong side. Repeat for the opposite side. Repeat for all stripes. Pin and topstitch the stripe 1½ inches up from the Sleeve hem. Trim excess. Repeat for the second Sleeve. Repeat for the bottom stripe of the coat across the Front and Back pieces measuring from the side seam. Pin and topstitch top Sleeve stripe 2.5 inch below the Sleeve underarm. Repeat for second Sleeve. Repeat for top stripe of the coat across the Front and Back pieces measuring from the side seam.
- SLEEVES – Match center of Sleeve to shoulder seam and pin. Stitch together. Trim coat seam allowance. Sew a flat fell seam to finish the Sleeve. Repeat for second Sleeve.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch the Sleeve and side seam using a French seam. Repeat for other side.
- HEM – Fold and press the hem ¼ inch. Repeat. Edgestitch. Repeat for Sleeve hems.
- BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES – Sew buttons and buttonholes.
- OPTIONAL POCKETS – Fold and press the top edge of Pocket ¼ inch down. Repeat. Topstitch. Fold and press both side edges ¼ inch to the wrong side. Then fold and press the bottom edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Repeat. Pin and topstitch Pocket in place along sides and bottom. Repeat for all Pockets.
- OPTIONAL MOCK BELT – Fold and pin Mock Belt in half lengthways, right sides together. Sew leaving a gap for turning. Trim seam allowance and clip corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch around the belt closing the gap. Pin Mock Belt to the back of the coat and attach either by topstitching along both short edges or by stitching buttons on each side 1 inch in from short edge.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk: notches, buttonholes, button placements, OPTIONAL Back Vent (marked at 5 inches from the hem on the pattern piece) and OPTIONAL Pocket placements.
0.2Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron interfacing onto both Front Neck Facing pieces and one Collar piece.
1 . Back and Shoulders1.0The non-vented back is a great option if you are making a firefighter’s jacket or if you’d like a quicker and simpler sew. If you would like an optional vent, which is perfect for a doctor’s jacket, skip to step 2.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the center edges of each Back piece. Do not cut off any fabric, just finish the edges. Place your two Back pieces right sides together and use your sewing machine to stitch with a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open. Follow steps 1.5 to 1.8 if you are adding a hanging loop. Then serge the shoulder edges of both Front and Back pieces. Place the Front pieces right sides together with the Back, at the shoulder seam. Use the sewing machine to sew with a ½ inch seam allowance and press the seam open. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to hide all the raw edges. This gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t used French seams before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
1.1With wrong sides together, right sides facing out, place your two Back pieces together along the center back seam. Pin in place.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
1.2Carefully trim the seam allowance in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
1.3Turn wrong side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
Pin along the center seam.
1.4Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
TIP – Press the seam allowances to the side before turning the garment inside out. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat to get a nice crisp edge to your French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
Lay the Back piece flat, wrong side facing up, and press the seam allowance towards the left.
1.5If you are adding an OPTIONAL Hanging Loop, follow these steps. If you aren’t adding one, skip to step 1.9.
Fold your hanging loop in half along its length, wrong sides together.
Press.
1.6Open the loop up again. Fold in the raw edges to meet up at the center fold line you just created. Press.
1.7Fold in half again down the original fold line. Press.
The raw edges should now be neatly tucked inside, and the loop should be ¼ of its original width, but the same length.
Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.
1.8Measure ½ inch on both sides of the center back seam. This is where you will pin each end of the hanging loop. Make sure to match the raw ends so that the hanging loop is attached by the full seam allowance.
Stitch in place just inside the seam allowance.
NOTE – The image shown is for illustrative purposes. You will attach the loop to the wrong side of the Back.
1.9With wrong sides together, place your Front pieces together along the shoulder seam. Pin in place.
TIP – Be sure you have the left Front pinned to the left Back shoulder.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
1.10Trim the seam allowance in half.
1.11Turn wrong side out, right sides facing together, and press flat.
Pin together.
1.12Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
Press the seam allowance towards the Back.
Repeat for the other shoulder.
Skip to step 3.
2 . OPTIONAL Back Vent and Shoulders2.0The vented back is a great option if you are making a doctor’s coat or classic lab coat.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the center edge of each Back piece. Do not cut any fabric off, just finish the edges. Place your two Back pieces right sides together and use a sewing machine to stitch with a ½ inch seam allowance down to this marking. Press the seam open, including the seam allowance below your vent marking. Topstitch around the faux vent. Follow steps 2.5 to 2.8 if you are adding a hanging loop. Then serge the shoulder edges of both Front and Back pieces. Place the Front pieces right sides together with the Back piece, at the shoulder seam. With a sewing machine, sew with a ½ inch seam allowance and press the seam open. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow these steps.
2.1With wrong sides together, place your two Back pieces together. Pin along the center back seam up to the vent marking.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge, starting at the neckline and stopping when you get to the vent marking.
2.2Carefully trim the seam allowance above your faux vent in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
2.3Turn wrong side out and press flat. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
Pin along the center seam.
2.4Stitch again, ¼ inch from the edge, from the neckline down to where your previous stitches end at the vent marking. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
TIP – Press the seam allowances to the side before turning the garment inside out. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat to get a nice crisp edge to your French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
Lay the Back piece flat, wrong side facing up and press the seam allowance towards the left.
2.5If you are adding an OPTIONAL Hanging Loop, follow these steps. If you aren’t adding one, skip to step 2.9.
Fold your hanging loop in half along its length, wrong sides together.
Press.
2.6Open the loop up again. Fold the raw edges in to meet up at the center fold line you just created. Press.
2.7Fold in half again down the original fold line. Press.
The raw edges should now be neatly tucked inside, and the loop should be ¼ of its original width, but the same length.
Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.
2.8With wrong sides of the coat facing up, measure ½ inch either side of the center back seam and pin each end of the hanging loop. Make sure to match the raw ends of the loop to the raw edge of the Back so it sits flush. This will ensure the loop is attached within the full seam allowance.
Stitch in place just inside the seam allowance.
NOTE – The image shown is for illustrative purposes. You will attach the loop to the wrong side of the Back.
2.9At the top of your faux vent, where your stitches end, clip directly into the seam allowance, up to, but not through your stitches.
2.10Press the Back vent seam allowance open.
Fold the seam allowance over approximately in half.
Press and pin in place.
2.11Topstitch around your faux vent, close to the folded edge of your seam allowance.
2.12With wrong sides together, place your Front pieces together along the shoulder seam. Pin in place.
TIP – Be sure you have the left Front pinned to the left Back shoulder.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
2.13Trim the seam allowance in half.
2.14Turn wrong side out, right sides facing together, and press flat.
Pin together.
2.15Stitch again, approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
Press the seam allowance towards the Back.
Repeat for the other shoulder.
3 . Collar and Front Facing3.0There are a few tips to doing the Collar. Watch our video of it being installed here.
3.0.1SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, follow steps 3.1 – 3.5 to attach your Collar. Serge to finish the top short edge and long inside edge of your Front Facing. Then, complete steps 3.8 – 3.15.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow these steps.
3.1Place your two Collar pieces right sides together and pin along the top edge and the first short edges on both sides.
3.2Sew with a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – As you get to the corner, leave your needle down, lift your pressure foot and turn your Collar. Continue sewing to the next corner and repeat.
Trim your seam allowance approximately in half and clip corners.
3.3Turn right side out, pushing out your corners. Roll your seam a little to the underside, and press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
Fold the Collar in half and mark the center of your interfaced Collar piece edge.
3.4With right sides facing, align the center of your Collar edge with the center back seam on the neckline. Pin the long edge and the short edge to the Back, along the ½ inch seam line.
TIP – These will match along the ½ inch seam allowance, but not necessarily along the raw edges.
NOTE – Your Collar won’t go all the way to the front edge of the coat. Just pin along the entire bottom edge of the Collar.
3.5Sew the interfaced Collar piece to the neckline of the lab coat.
NOTE – The ½ inch seam allowance helps the Collar stand up when the coat is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the Collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Take care when doing this to go no further than ½ way into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise, you could end up with a hole in your Collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.
Press the seam allowance up, away from the coat.
3.6Lay your Front Facing piece wrong side up. Press ¼ inch to the wrong side along the inside curved edge.
Press ¼ inch across the top short edge.
Repeat, pressing another ¼ inch to the wrong side along the curved edge and top short edge. This will hide your raw edges.
3.7Topstitch along the long curved edge, close to the folded edge.
3.8Lay your Front Facing on top of your Front piece, right sides together. Pin the Facing to the Front, along the center front seam and along the straight edge of the Facing.
Pin the curved edge of the Facing to the non-interfaced Collar piece, all the way to the end of the Facing. Match the outside corner of the Collar with the inside corner of the Facing when pinning.
3.9With wrong side facing up, stitch the Front Facing to the Front and to the Collar with ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – When you get to the corner, leave your needle down and lift your pressure foot. Turn the coat, lower your pressure foot, and continue along the Facing.
TIP – Go slowly when you get to the point where the Collar is already connected to the coat. You want to make sure you stitch directly to that corner, not past it, to get a nice crisp corner on your Collar and Facing.
NOTE – The opening of the non-interfaced Collar will be stitched closed in step 3.14.
3.10Trim your center front seam allowance. Clip the top corner. Carefully clip into the top curved seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.
Flip the Facing over to the wrong side of the Front, pushing out the corner. Press.
Repeat steps 3.6 to 3.10 for the second Facing.
3.11With wrong sides facing up, press the Collar and Facing seam allowance up, towards the Collar.
Press the remaining raw edge of the Collar up ½ inch to the wrong side.
Flip the Collar and Facing over to meet the neckline seam.
3.12Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the loose short edge of the Facing to the shoulder seam allowance. Your fabric will be folded under ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.
NOTE – The image shown here is for illustrative purposes. You will be hand stitching.
Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the skirt to outside, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.
Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
3.13Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.
We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.
To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.
3.14Turn the coat over, right side facing up. Pin the Collar in place along the neckline making sure you have caught the Collar seam allowance.
3.15Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge, all the way around the Collar. This closes the open edge.
TIP – When you get to each corner, leave the needle down, lift your pressure foot, and turn the coat.
3.16With right sides facing up, pin your Facing to the Front piece all along the center front to the short edge.
Repeat for second Facing.
3.17Topstitch along the center front, ¼ inch from the front edge until you reach the Collar. This will enclose the raw edges from the Facing and coat Front.
Repeat for the other side.
4 . OPTIONAL Contrasting Stripes4.0You can add contrasting stripes to your Front, Back and Sleeves to create a different look to your lab coat, such as a firefighters jacket. If you would like to add stripes, follow the steps below. This step must be done with a regular sewing machine.
If you don’t want to add stripes, skip to step 5.
4.1Take the bottom Sleeve stripe and fold it ½ inch to the wrong side along the length. Press.
4.2Fold the opposite long edge ½ inch to the wrong side and press.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 for all stripe pieces.
4.3Place the stripe 1.5 inches up from the bottom of the Sleeve. Pin in place.
Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge along the top and bottom of your stripe.
NOTE – As you are sewing a rectangular piece to shaped piece the stripe will overlap slightly. Trim this off to the shape of the Sleeve.
Repeat for the second Sleeve.
Repeat for the bottom stripe of the coat across the Front and Back pieces measuring from the side seam.
TIP – Check your Front and Back stripes match up forming one continuous stripe before sewing up your side seams.
4.4Place top Sleeve stripe 2.5 inches below the Sleeve underarm. Pin in place.
Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge along the top and bottom of your stripe.
Repeat for the second Sleeve.
Repeat for the top stripe of the coat across the Front and Back pieces measuring from the side seam.
5 . Sleeves5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, align your Sleeves with your bodice, lining up the middle of the Sleeve head with shoulder seam, right sides together. With a regular sewing machine, sew with ½ inch seam allowance. Finish the edges on your serger. Match the raw edges of the Sleeve, underarm seam, and side of the coat. Pin and use your sewing machine to sew with ½ inch seam allowance. Finish edges on your serger. Then, skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow these steps.
We will be doing a flat fell seam. This is where the seam is stitched together and one half of the seam allowance tucks over the other. It keeps the raw edges hidden and makes for a very strong seam. If you haven’t used this technique before, don’t worry, all the steps are included so you can follow along.
5.1Fold your Sleeve in half and place a pin to mark the center.
With right sides facing, match your Sleeve center to the shoulder seam and the ends of the armscye edges.
Ease the Sleeve in at the ½ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, the fabric will where you sew it.
5.2Stitch the Sleeve with ½ inch seam allowance.
5.3Trim the seam allowance of the coat only. Do not clip the seam allowance of the Sleeve.
5.4Fold the Sleeve seam allowance over the coat seam allowance and press toward the coat.
5.5Topstitch along the Sleeve seam allowance, close to the fold.
NOTE – You will need to make sure you sew the same distance from your seam line all along the seam allowance, as these stitches will show from the right side of the coat.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.5 for the second Sleeve.
6 . Side Seams6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, use a sewing machine to stitch your side seams with ½ inch seam allowance, then serge to finish the fabric edges. Then, skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow these steps.
6.1With wrong sides together, right sides facing out, align the raw edges of the Sleeve and the side seam. Pin in place.
6.2Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
6.3Turn wrong side out and press as flat as you can, toward the Back. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
Pin along the side seam.
Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for the other side seam.
7 . Hem7.0First, FIT CHECK – Try the lab coat on and check you are happy with the Sleeve length. You will be hemming the Sleeves ½ inch. If you would like it shorter, trim accordingly now.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the bottom edge of your coat and Sleeves. Do not remove any fabric. Press ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to the edge. Then skip to step 8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow these steps.
7.1Fold the bottom edge of the coat ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
7.2Repeat step 7.1 to enclose your raw edges.
7.3Edgestitch the hem about ⅛ inch from the edge of the fold.
7.4Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for both Sleeve hems.
8 . Buttons and Buttonholes8.1Sew buttonholes on the Front coat, using the markings you previously transferred.
NOTE – If you are sewing your coat for a boy, buttonholes are usually on the left side (with buttons the right). If you are sewing for a girl, the buttonholes will be on the right side (with buttons on the left).
TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!
TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty, switch to a matching color or use a contrasting color in a regular weight.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop from ripping through the other side of your buttonhole.
8.2Attach buttons to the opposite Front, using the markings you previously transferred.
TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure it is going to line up. If needed, move any buttons to better line up with your buttonholes.
TIP – When sewing flat buttons on a coat, I like to use 3 threads of embroidery floss.
Do not stitch the buttons too close to the garment but instead leave enough space for the overlap layer. To do so, you will need to build a shank out of thread.
To make the shank, sew your buttons with a toothpick over it. Once you are done sewing the button, remove the toothpick. This will automatically loosen up your button. Pull gently on the button to the end of your stitches to transfer all extra space under the button.
Wrap your threads around the loops underneath the button a few times.
Finish by sewing a few small stitches to the wrong side of the fabric at the base of the shank.
9 . OPTIONAL Pockets9.0If you are making a firefighter’s jacket, do not add the top Pocket.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge all four edges of each Pocket. Press top edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to serged edge. Press side edges, then bottom edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Then, skip to step 9.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow these steps for all Pocket pieces.
9.1Fold the top edge of your Pocket down ¼ inch. Press.
9.2Repeat to enclose raw edges.
9.3Topstitch close to folded edge.
9.4Fold both side edges ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
Then, fold the bottom edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
9.5Repeat 9.4 to enclose raw edges.
9.6Use the Pocket placement marked from your pattern piece to align your Pocket, wrong side of Pocket to right side of fabric. Pin in place.
9.7Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge, along the sides and the bottom.
TIP – You can reinforce the corners with a triangle in the corner to help your Pocket withstand all those treasures being stored in them.
Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.7 for any other OPTIONAL Pockets of your choosing.
10 . OPTIONAL Mock Belt10.1Fold the Mock Belt in half lengthways, right sides together. Pin along all open edges.
10.2Sew around both short edges and the long edge with ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a gap for turning.
10.3Trim seam allowance and clip corners.
10.4Turn right side out through the open gap. Press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick to get nice, crisp corners.
10.5Pin the open gap, enclosing the seam allowance. Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge, all the way around.
10.6Place the Mock Belt, wrong side facing right side of coat Back, matching the top of the Mock Belt to the belt placement marking and pin in place.
10.7You can attach the Mock Belt one of two ways:
Stitch directly over your topstitching lines from step 9.5, along both short edges.
OR
Stitch one button on each edge 1 inch from the side, through the belt and the coat.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Lab Coat is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rplabcoat.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewLab Coat
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This lab coat is a great addition to your child’s dress up collection. Use it to create a coat for a Doctor, Veterinarian, Nurse, Scientist, Chef, and more. Add optional pockets, back vent, and mock belt for an authentic lab coat. Or, add contrasting stripes for a firefighter.
We’ve created cut files to add extra details to your lab coat such as a stethoscope, beaker, syringe, and more. The possibilities are endless. Let your imagination run wild!
SizingSize Range
2-12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Lengths
Front Crossed Over as Worn
Front Shoulder Seam to Hem
Sleeve
2 – 3 yrs
29.3
25.4
12.0
3 – 4 yrs
30.5
27.0
14.6
5 – 6 yrs
32.4
30.3
17.1
7 – 8 yrs
34.5
33.3
19.1
9 – 10 yrs
35.3
36.6
20.7
11 – 12 yrs
37.3
40.7
22.2
Materials and ToolsUse any lightweight woven fabric for your coat. 100% cotton is softer and cooler and will allow the fabric to “breathe”. Poplin, twill, and broadcloth are great options, or even a cotton/polyester blend.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Coat
OPTIONAL Mock Belt
OPTIONAL Pockets
OPTIONAL Contrasting Stripes
2 – 4 yrs
1.75
0.25
0.25
0.75
5 – 8 yrs
2.00
0.25
0.25
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
2.25
0.25
0.25
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
2.50
0.25
0.25
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Coat
OPTIONAL Mock Belt
OPTIONAL Pockets
OPTIONAL Contrasting Stripes
2 – 3 yrs
1.25
0.25
0.25
0.75
3 – 6 yrs
1.50
0.25
0.25
0.75
7 – 10 yrs
1.75
0.25
0.25
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
2.00
0.25
0.25
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 5 x 20mm Buttons (3x for front and 2x for optional mock belt)
- Light weight interfacing
- If you are adding the optional contrasting stripes you can use ribbon/trim/fluorescent banding instead of fabric. Any width you ‘d like however the finished width is approx. 1¼ inches for the top band and 2 inches for the bottom. 1mt will be more than enough to cover all stripes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, and a ruler.