Progress Menu
x
Home / Womens / Garments, Intimates, Lingerie, Shorts, Sleepwear and Pajamas
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
11
![]()
![]()
Lingerie Shorts
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Introducing the comfiest and quickest lingerie shorts sewing pattern! Features an elasticated waistband, curved hemline, and optional decorative trims. Pair with the Slip for a complete set.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL
Not a member yet? Click here to sign up
- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size using the waist measurements from the size chart. If your measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to your waist measurement and grade out to the hip of the size you need. If you fall at the bottom end of your size range, you may need to take the waist in at the side seams.
- Length – The shorts are designed to be loose fitting with a curved hem. That said, every individual has slightly different leg proportions, so it is advisable to do a muslin to check if you need to lengthen or shorten the shorts before cutting into your final fabric.
- Inseam – Before sewing your muslin, look at the finished measure chart and measure where the shorts will sit on your inseam. It is helpful to have a friend help you out with this. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit.
- Height – These shorts are designed to fit a height of 5 foot 6 inches.
- All humans vary in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any pattern (see below) to adjust to your personal body.
- If you need to lengthen or shorten, follow the advice below on the rise adjustment to adjust at the crotch area, then, also adjust using the short cut line.
- Rise adjustment – The shorts have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork, for back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork.
- If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise, and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start!
- As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Elastic adjustment – When cutting the elastic by your waist measure, check that it will fit over your hips.
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Pants/shorts can be a bit of an art but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front and back legs, clip, or pin together at the waist and try on.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- OPTIONAL Trim for hem – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. You will need a trim with an edge that doesn’t fray.
- OPTIONAL ½ inch wide Double fold bias binding – approximately 3.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Elastic – ⅜ inch wide – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. Be sure that your elastic has a good stretch.
- OPTIONAL 1x Satin bow
- Thread to match
- Front Leg – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Leg – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
Project OverviewLingerie Shorts
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Designed to be loose fitting Lingerie shorts with an elasticized waistband. The hem has a curved shape and can be finished with an optional trim. As a final touch, add the decorative bow at the center front of the shorts. Then pair them with the Slip for a complete lingerie or sleep set.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Back rise
Front rise
Inseam
XXS
25.0
40.2
12.5
8.7
1.4
XS
27.0
44.2
13.0
9.3
1.4
S
28.0
44.7
13.5
10.1
1.4
M
30.0
46.0
14.1
10.4
1.4
L
32.0
47.5
14.6
11.0
1.4
XL
35.0
50.0
15.1
11.5
1.4
XXL
38.0
52.7
15.7
12.0
1.4
3XL
42.0
56.3
16.4
12.6
1.4
4XL
46.0
60.5
17.4
13.3
1.4
5XL
50.0
63.2
18.0
14.1
1.4
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsFabrics – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for these shorts. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look in mind.
This pattern was originally designed to be paired with the Slip as a lingerie set. If you would like to create this look, use a light or medium weight woven with a silky feel to it such as satin charmeuse, satin, silk crepe, crepe de chine, and silk. This will give the slip drape but will also allow the clothing worn over the top to lay nicely.
If you would like sleep shorts rather than lingerie shorts, use fabrics such as linen, cotton, rayon challis, lawn, chambray, cotton voile, double gauze, and viscose. All these fabrics will drape and will be light and floaty looking.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Shorts
XXS – 3XL
1.00
4XL – 5XL
1.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Shorts
XXS – 4XL
1.00
5XL
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler and optional rolled hem foot. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Shorts XXS – 5XL 2-11 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Shorts XXS – 5XL 2-11 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
⅜ inch wide
Elastic (Cut 1)OPTIONAL
Binding (Cut 2)OPTIONAL
Trim (Cut 2)Length
Length
Length
XXS
23.0
46.1
41.7
XS
25.0
48.0
44.7
S
26.0
50.0
45.7
M
28.0
52.1
47.5
L
30.0
54.6
51.0
XL
33.0
56.5
51.5
XXL
36.0
59.1
54.0
3XL
40.0
62.1
56.6
4XL
44.0
65.1
60.0
5XL
48.0
68.1
62.4
Cutting Checklist:
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Prep bias binding.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the rise on the Front and Back Legs.
- INSEAM – Stitch the inseam using a French seam.
- REGULAR HEM OPTION – Baste the hem. Fold straight edges ¼ inch. Press. Fold again. Press. Gently pull basting stitches to curl the curved edges. Fold ¼ inch. Press. Fold again. Press. Topstitch.
- OPTIONAL TRIM – Stitch trim to hemmed edge between pattern markings on right side of Leg. Repeat for second Leg.
- BOUND HEM OPTION – Attach binding at hem on both Legs.
- ROLLED HEM OPTION – Stitch a rolled hem on both Legs.
- RISE – Stitch the rise together using French seams.
- SIDE OVERLAP – Beginning at one side of the shorts, overlap the side seam by ½ inch at the waist edge. Pin. Continue pinning until you reach the pattern marking. Topstitch over your previous stitching. Press the seams flat. Repeat on the other side.
- WAIST – Stitch elastic together. Quarter shorts and elastic then match together with elastic ¼ inch below edge of shorts, stitch. Turn ¼ edge over, fold the waist edge again the width of the elastic, zigzag to complete.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are binding the hem and are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold binding to finish the raw edges.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
0.3Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that are used around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the rise is likely to stretch and then your garment won’t fit properly.
Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch the rise on the Front and Back Legs. Starting at the waist, stitch down the rise in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Inseam1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION –Place one Front and one Back Leg right sides together at the inseam. Using a regular sewing machine first, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the second leg. Then, finish the edges on the serger. Skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use French seams to sew the inseam. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
1.1With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Front and Back Leg together at the inseam.
1.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
1.4Turn the Leg so the right sides are facing. Press the inseam. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold. Pin.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
1.5Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).
1.6Turn right side out and press the seam to one side.
1.7Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for the other Front and Back Leg.
2 . Regular Hem OPTION2.0If you are binding your shorts, skip to step 4. If you are sewing a rolled hem, skip to step 5. If you are finishing your shorts with a regular hem, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem raw edges. Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Pin. Skip to step 2.5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
2.1Starting at the waist on the Front Leg, baste the hem all the way up to the waist on the Back Leg, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – This will make it easier to fold the curve of the hem.
2.2Fold all the straight edges of the hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
Fold another ¼ inch. Press. Pin.
NOTE – Do not fold the curved edges.
2.3Using a seam ripper, gently pull the basting stitches intermittently along the curved edges. The hem will start curling, making it easier to fold. Fold over ¼ inch. Pin as you turn the hem and press to help it stay flat as you stitch.
TIP – Use lots of pins to keep the curved hem in place.
NOTE – You are using the seam ripper to lift/pull up the thread. Do not cut the thread.
2.4Fold another ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. Pin.
2.5Topstitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch slowly to ensure the entire raw edge is caught in the folded seam as you stitch.
2.6Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the other Leg.
If you are not adding OPTIONAL trim, skip to step 6.
If you are adding OPTIONAL trim, follow below.
3 . OPTIONAL Trim3.0Trim can only be added to the hemmed version. If you are adding an OPTIONAL trim, follow the steps below.
3.1Lay the Leg right side facing up. Place the trim onto the hemmed edge, folding the top edge, starting at the pattern marking. Match the start of the trim itself (shown with a pin), to the hemmed edge. Pin.
Continue pinning all the way to the next pattern marking.
3.2Topstitch along the entire length of the hem.
3.3Repeat steps 3.1 and 3.2 for the other leg.
Skip to step 6.
4 . Bound Hem OPTION4.1Lay one leg wrong side up. Starting at the waist edge of the Front Leg, place the right side of the binding down, matching raw edges. Pin all the way around up to the waist edge of the Back Leg.
4.2Stitch along the first fold of the binding.
4.3Turn the leg over to the right side. Press the seam allowance away from the shorts, towards the binding.
Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
4.4Fold the binding over, enclosing the raw edge. Pin.
Continue pinning all the way around until reaching the other side.
4.5Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.5 for the other leg.
Skip to step 6.
5 . Rolled Hem OPTION5.0A rolled hem is better suited for delicate fabrics such as silk, rayon, and satin, which can be tricky if hemming using a regular method. If you have already hemmed your shorts, skip to step 6. If you are sewing a rolled hem, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Refer to your machines manual on how to stitch a rolled hem. Most sergers are equipped with a rolled and narrow hem function. Then, skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will need a rolled hem foot for this step.
TIP – Practice these steps on a piece of scrap fabric before hemming your shorts.
5.1Put the rolled hem foot onto your machine.
NOTE – You can use a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, or decorative stitch (scallops) rolled hem. The steps are the same, the results would be stunning either way.
5.2Starting with the wrong side of the top edge of the Front Leg (and without feeding the fabric through the roll of the presser foot), baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance for a width of ½ inch only.
NOTE – Do not trim off the excess threads that hang off the start of these stitches. This step is essential as the tails will provide a “handle” for us to feed the fabric into the presser foot in the next step.
5.3Raise the presser foot and run the thread through the swirl of the presser foot, using it as a guide for the fabric to go into the presser foot.
NOTE – The fabric just outside of the presser foot will start to curve upwards slightly. This is what will create the fold under as the fabric is hemmed.
5.4Lower the presser foot and begin stitching. Guide the fabric into the swirl of the presser foot by curving the raw edge of the fabric about ¼ inches over. Pull the fabric coming out at the other end taut. This creates some tension across the hem being sewn, which ensures the fabric is being fed through evenly.
Continue stitching the rolled hem from the top of the Front Leg to the top of the Back Leg.
Tip – Take your time to sew your rolled hem. The results will be well worth the time.
5.5Press the seams flat.
TIP – The curves of the hem may curl up. Use the steam function on your iron to flatten the hem.
5.6Repeat steps 5.2 to 5.5 for the other side.
6 . Rise6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Legs right sides together, matching the rise. Pin. Using a regular sewing machine stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Finish the edges on the serger. Then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below to sew the rise using a French seam.
6.1Stitch the rise of the Front and Back Legs together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
7 . Side Overlap7.0The side seams have already been hemmed/bounded. You will need to overlap the front and back at the side, then topstitch to the pattern marking to secure the sides.
7.1Beginning at one side of the shorts, overlap the side seam by ½ inch at the waist edge. Pin.
Continue pinning until you reach the pattern marking.
NOTE – Front overlaps over back.
7.2Topstitch over your previous stitching.
TIP – Go slowly here, checking you are stitching directly over the stitch line for a neat finish.
7.3Press the seams flat.
Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 on the other side of the shorts.
8 . Waist8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 8.1 to 8.4. Serge the elastic to the shorts. Then, skip to step 8.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
8.1Overlap the short ends of the elastic by ½ inch on each side (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
FIT CHECK – If your model is available, try the cut piece of elastic around their waist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their waist and will hold up the shorts, before continuing to the next step.
8.2Stitch the two ends of elastic together by stitching a zig zag stitch several times over the ends.
8.3Find and mark the quarter points of the elastic and waist edge of the shorts.
TIP – The front and back rise will be the first quarter pin mark. The other two marks will be exactly half of the distance.
NOTE – The side seams of the shorts are not the halfway marks.
TIP – You can stitch a gather stitch around the waist and gently gather before attaching the elastic. Be sure that when gathered the shorts go over your hips.
8.4Position the elastic onto the wrong side of the waist edge, ¼ inch below the raw edge, matching quarter points.
NOTE – The elastic will have to be stretched to fit the shorts. Do not stretch the shorts.
TIP – For a more accurate stretch, you can add additional pins or clips along the way to distribute the elasticity across the waist. This eliminates the bunched gathers accumulated in some areas and not in other areas.
8.5Starting at the center back, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and a zigzag stitch. Stretch the elastic as you sew in between each quarter, stitching all the way around the waist.
8.6Fold the ¼ inch gap above the elastic over the elastic. Fold the waist edge again, the width of the elastic. Pin.
8.7Topstitch close to the folded edge of the elastic.
8.8OPTIONAL BOW: Hand stitch the bow at the center front.
Your Lingerie Shorts are finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Lingerie Shorts are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rplingerieshorts.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewLingerie Shorts
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Designed to be loose fitting Lingerie shorts with an elasticized waistband. The hem has a curved shape and can be finished with an optional trim. As a final touch, add the decorative bow at the center front of the shorts. Then pair them with the Slip for a complete lingerie or sleep set.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Back rise
Front rise
Inseam
XXS
25.0
40.2
12.5
8.7
1.4
XS
27.0
44.2
13.0
9.3
1.4
S
28.0
44.7
13.5
10.1
1.4
M
30.0
46.0
14.1
10.4
1.4
L
32.0
47.5
14.6
11.0
1.4
XL
35.0
50.0
15.1
11.5
1.4
XXL
38.0
52.7
15.7
12.0
1.4
3XL
42.0
56.3
16.4
12.6
1.4
4XL
46.0
60.5
17.4
13.3
1.4
5XL
50.0
63.2
18.0
14.1
1.4
Materials and ToolsFabrics – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for these shorts. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look in mind.
This pattern was originally designed to be paired with the Slip as a lingerie set. If you would like to create this look, use a light or medium weight woven with a silky feel to it such as satin charmeuse, satin, silk crepe, crepe de chine, and silk. This will give the slip drape but will also allow the clothing worn over the top to lay nicely.
If you would like sleep shorts rather than lingerie shorts, use fabrics such as linen, cotton, rayon challis, lawn, chambray, cotton voile, double gauze, and viscose. All these fabrics will drape and will be light and floaty looking.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Shorts
XXS – 3XL
1.00
4XL – 5XL
1.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Shorts
XXS – 4XL
1.00
5XL
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL Trim for hem – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. You will need a trim with an edge that doesn’t fray.
- OPTIONAL ½ inch wide Double fold bias binding – approximately 3.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Elastic – ⅜ inch wide – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. Be sure that your elastic has a good stretch.
- OPTIONAL 1x Satin bow
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler and optional rolled hem foot. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.