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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Magical Drawstring Backpack
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Make the child in your life something that they will love with the adorable Magical Drawstring Backpack sewing pattern. This cute Magical Drawstring backpack has two size options, large and small. The sewing pattern comes with instructions to customize the Magical Drawstring Backpack in nine different ways: a bunny, dragon, dinosaur, monster, angel, child, color blocking, and adding bunting to make this a custom backpack. The backpack closes with a drawstring cord which can be fed through a tab or optional eyelet.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes size Small and Large.
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- +Preparation
- ⅛ inch Drawstring cord – you will need approximately:
- Size S – 3 yards
- Size L – 3.5 yards
- NOTE – If you use a Drawstring cord that is wider than ⅛ inch, you will need to make the channel deeper than the pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL Interfacing – If you are using a lightweight fabric and would like a little more structure to your backpack you can use a light to medium weight interfacing. The amount you need will depend on the pieces you are interfacing. You will need the same amount of interfacing as your fabric amount listed above.
- Eyelet OPTION – 2x ½ inch wide eyelet hardware
- OPTIONAL Fusible webbing for the characters. You will need a small amount for the Eyes, Nose, Pupils, Eyebrows and Paw pieces.
- Angel / Dragon OPTION – You will need 0.25 yards of lightweight batting for the Wings.
- Bunny OPTION – You will need yarn to create a pompom tail. You can either buy a ready-made pompom, or if you would like to make your own you will need:
- You could use any thickness of yarn and as much or as little as you like. The thicker your yarn or the more you use, the fuller your pompom will be
- We used less than 1 ball/skeins of yarn in this tutorial.
- Alternatively, you can use any non-fraying fabric for the pompom (e.g., felt, fleece, lycra, fake fur, leather, yarn suiting), or use any other ribbon or trim you like.
- A great idea is to mix and match yarn colors, fabric colors or mix and match fabric with a yarn or ribbon/cord/trim!
- Child OPTION – You will need less than 1 ball/skein of yarn. You will need 120 cut lengths, each 11 inches long. If you have scrap yarn this would be perfect to use up.
- OPTIONAL Stuffing – This can be added to the Bunny or Dragon feet. You will need a handful of stuffing.
- Bunting OPTION – You can use fabric paint/markers to draw on letters, embroider them with embroidery thread or use Heat Transfer Vinyl if you wish.
- Thread to match
- Front & Back – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Pocket – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- NOTE – If you are using directional fabric, check the direction of your print. The longer measurement will be the width of the pocket.
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back Lining – Lining cut 2
- Front & Back Top – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back Bottom – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back Lining – Lining cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Top – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Bottom – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Flag – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) per Flag, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1 per Flag
- Front & Back Lining – Lining cut 2
- Front & Back – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Eyes – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 2
- Pupils – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 2
- Nose – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 1
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back Lining – Lining cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Top – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Bottom – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Ear – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Pompom – Cardboard cut 2
- Paw Soles – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 2
- Paw Pads – Fabric cut 6, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 6
- Feet – Fabric cut 4, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 4
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back Lining – Lining cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Top – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Bottom – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Wing – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back Lining – Lining cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Top – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Bottom – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Wing – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Feet – Fabric cut 4, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Claws – Non fraying fabric cut 6
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back Lining – Lining cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Top – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Front Bottom – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Eyebrow – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Nose – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 1
- Small Tooth – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Big Tooth – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Eye 1 – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 1
- Eye 2 – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 1
- Pupils – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible webbing cut 2
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Front & Back Lining – Lining cut 2
- Front – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
- Back – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Spike:
- Size S – Fabric cut 12, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 6
- Size L – Fabric cut 18, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 9
- OPTIONAL Tab – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
Project OverviewMagical Drawstring Backpack
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This super cute backpack pattern has two sizes to choose from; small or large. You can attach the drawstring cord through a tab or an eyelet at the bottom on either side. This threads through the top of the backpack to close it. You can color block the front or add a pocket. Or choose a cute character or bunting to sew.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Bag
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Width Height S 10.50 11.50 L 13.00 16.00 Materials and ToolsFabric – You will need a woven or non-stretch fabric. Cotton, quilting cotton, denim, cotton lawn, canvas, even upholstery fabric would work.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
All OPTIONS Color Block OPTION Pocket Monster Dragon OPTION Angel Bunny OPTION Main Lining Color 1 Color 2 Pocket OPTION Monster / Child / Dinosaur / Bunting OPTION: Features Wings Feet Claws Angel OPTION: Wings Ears Other Features S 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 0.25 Scraps 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 0.25 Scraps L 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 0.50 Scraps 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 0.50 Scraps Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
All OPTIONS Color Block OPTION Pocket Monster Dragon OPTION Angel Bunny OPTION Main Lining Color 1 Color 2 Pocket OPTION Monster / Child / Dinosaur / Bunting OPTION: Features Wings Feet Claws Angel OPTION: Wings Ears Other Features S 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 0.25 Scraps 0.25 0.25 Scraps 0.25 0.25 Scraps L 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.25 0.50 Scraps 0.50 0.25 Scraps 0.50 0.25 Scraps * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, safety pin or bodkin, tailors chalk or disappearing ink fabric pen. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Bunny OPTION Angel OPTION Dragon OPTION Color Block OPTION Monster OPTION Dinosaur OPTION Bunting OPTION Child OPTION S 2-5, 11-14, 27-28 2-5, 11-14, 23 2-5, 11-14, 24-25 2-3, 6-7, 11-12, 15-16 2-3, 6-7, 11-12, 15-16, 30-31 2-3, 8, 11-12, 17, 26 2-3, 9-12, 18-19, 26 2-3, 11-12, 29 L 2-5, 11-14, 27-28 2-5, 11-14, 22, 28 2-5, 11-14, 23-25, 29-31 2-3,6-7, 11-12, 15-16 2-3, 6-7, 11-12, 15-16, 30-31 2-3, 8, 11-12, 17, 26 2-3, 9-12, 18-19, 26 2-3, 11-12, 29 Plain OPTION Pocket OPTION OPTIONAL Tab S 2-3, 11-12 2-3, 11-12, 20-21 26 L 2-3, 11-12 2-3, 11-12, 20-21, 26-27 26 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Bunny OPTION Angel OPTION Dragon OPTION Color Block OPTION Monster OPTION Dinosaur OPTION Bunting OPTION Child OPTION S 2-5, 11-14, 27-28 2-5, 11-14, 23 2-5, 11-14, 24-25 2-3, 6-7, 11-12, 15-16 2-3, 6-7, 11-12, 15-16, 30-31 2-3, 8, 11-12, 17, 26 2-3, 9-12, 18-19, 26 2-3, 11-12, 29 L 2-5, 11-14, 27-28 2-5, 11-14, 22, 28 2-5, 11-14, 24-25, 30 2-3, 6-7, 11-12, 15-16 2-3, 6-7, 11-12, 15-16, 30-31 2-3, 8, 11-12, 17, 26 2-3, 9-12, 18-19, 26 2-3, 11-12, 29 Plain OPTION Pocket OPTION OPTIONAL Tab S 2-3, 11-12 2-3, 11-12, 20-21 26 L 2-3, 11-12 2-3, 11-12, 20-21 26 Cut Files
File Types
We have included three to four file types for you to choose from. Please choose whichever you are more familiar with or works best with your cutting machine. For cut files of the smaller pieces for some of our patterns, like the Dolls House Quiet Book and Add-on, we do not include a PDF copy. All versions come with .SVG, .PNG, and .DXF.
You will start by downloading the files from your account. Open your software and choose the file type you’d like to work with.
Pattern Cut Files
When working with cut files to cut small pattern pieces, it is imperative that you make sure the file is the correct size prior to cutting. We have included a one-inch square box offset in each file. You should be able to move the square off to the side, so it isn’t cut with the rest of your file. For files that also have square pieces, please be sure to compare them to the cut chart in the original file instructions. We’d always prefer you double check than have something cut out that isn’t useable!
Other Cut Files
For all other cut files, you should resize to your project needs. Please do keep in mind the size of some of the features. Going very small may make it difficult to cut smaller fonts or finer details.
Media
As mentioned earlier, it is very important to choose the correct media to for your cut. There is a huge selection to choose from and it can be overwhelming. Be sure to use the materials suggested by your machine for the type of project you are completing.
Download DXF FileDownload PNG FileDownload SVG FileCutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
ALL OPTIONS Plain / Pocket / Child OPTION Pocket OPTION Bunny / Angel / Dragon OPTION Front & Back Lining (Lining cut 2)
Front & Back (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2) Pocket (Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Back (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Front Top (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Front Bottom (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length S 11.5 12.5 11.5 12.5 12.5 8.0 11.5 12.5 11.5 2.5 11.5 11.0 L 14.0 17.0 14.0 17.0 15.0 11.0 14.0 17.0 14.0 2.5 14.0 15.5 Color Block OPTION Monster OPTION Front & Back Top (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2) Front & Back Bottom (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2) Front Top (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Front Bottom (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Back (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length S 11.5 3.5 11.5 10.0 11.5 3.5 11.5 10.0 11.5 12.5 L 14.0 5.0 14.0 13.0 14.0 5.0 14.0 13.0 14.0 17.0 Dinosaur OPTION Bunting OPTION Front (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Back (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) Back (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1) OPTIONAL Tab (Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 2) Drawstring (cut 2) Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Length S 11.5 12.5 11.5 12.5 11.5 12.5 3.5 3.0 47.0 L 14.0 17.0 14.0 17.0 14.0 17.0 3.5 3.0 61.0 NOTE – You can use longer lengths for the drawstring. We have listed the minimum length needed in order to be able to open the backpack.
Cutting Checklist:
Plain OPTION:
Pocket OPTION:
Color Block OPTION:
Bunting OPTION:
Child OPTION:
Bunny OPTION:
Angel OPTION:
Dragon OPTION:
Monster OPTION:
Dinosaur OPTION:
- ⅛ inch Drawstring cord – you will need approximately:
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
- OPTIONAL INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to wrong side of pattern pieces.
- OPTIONAL FUSIBLE WEBBING – Apply fusible webbing to pattern pieces.
- BUNNY OPTION – Place Main and Lining Ear right sides together. Stitch curved outer edges. Trim seam in half. Clip corner and snip into seam allowance. Turn and press. OPTIONAL Topstitch curved edges. Repeat for second Ear. Press Paw Sole and 3x Paw Pads onto Foot. Applique Paw pieces. Place second Foot right side down onto appliqued Foot. Stitch outer curved edges. Clip into seam allowance. Turn and press. OPTIONAL – Add some stuffing. Repeat for other Foot. Place Feet onto bottom edge of Main Front Bottom, right sides together. Baste. NOTE – Size S place these 1 ½ inches in from side. Size L place 3 inches in from side. Lay Ear Lining right side up. Fold sides to center. Repeat for second Ear. Baste raw edge of each Ear onto top edge of Main Front Bottom. NOTE – Size S place these 3 inches in from side. For size L place 4 inches in from side. Place Main Front Top onto top edge of Main Front Bottom, right sides together. Stitch. Flip Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press seam up. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Create pompom using template. Hand stitch Pompom onto right side of Main Front Bottom, 3 ½ inches from bottom edge. Skip to step 10.
- ANGEL OPTION – Place pair of Wings right sides together. OPTIONAL – Place Wing Batting onto wrong side of one Wing. Pin outer edges. Stitch. Clip into seam allowance. Turn and press. Stitch Wing design. Repeat for second Wing. Lay Main Front Bottom right side up. Place each Wing onto top edge, right side facing up. NOTE – Size S place these 3 inches in from the side. For size L place these 4 inches in from side. Baste. Place Main Front Top onto top edge of Main Front Bottom, right sides together. Stitch. Flip Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press seam up. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
- DRAGON OPTION – Place pair of Wings right sides together. Pin along outer edges. OPTIONAL – Place Wing Batting onto wrong side of one Wing. Stitch. Clip into seam allowance. Trim corners. Turn and press. Stitch Wing Design. Repeat for second Wing. Stitch Wing Design. Lay Main Front Bottom right side up. Place each Wing onto top edge, right side facing up. Pin. NOTE – Size S place these 3 inches in from the side. Size L place these 4 inches in from side. Baste. Place Main Front Top onto top edge of Main Front Bottom, right sides together. Stitch. Flip Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press seam up. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Lay Foot right side up. Place Claw at center of each ‘toe’. Baste. Place second Foot right side together. Stitch outer edges. Snip into seam allowance and between ‘toes’. Turn and press. OPTIONAL – Add stuffing. Repeat for other Foot. Place each Foot onto bottom edge of Main Front Bottom. Pin. NOTE – Size S place these 1 ½ inches in from the side. Size L place these 3 inches in from side. Baste. Skip to step 10.
- DINOSAUR OPTION – Stitch two Spikes pieces right sides together along curved edges. Trim corners. Clip into seam. Turn and press. Repeat for each Spike. Lay Main Front piece right side up. Place a Spike at center edge 1 ¾ inches from top edge, matching the straight long raw edge of the Spike. Pin. Continue adding Spikes, one underneath the other. Baste. Place two Main Fronts right sides together, matching center edge. Stitch. Open Main Front right side up. Press Spikes to each side. Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
- MONSTER OPTION – Press Pupil onto Eye right sides facing up. Repeat for second Eye. Lay Main Front Top right side facing up. Place Eyes, Eyebrows and Nose right side facing up. Press. Applique each piece. Stitch Big Tooth pieces right sides together at long angled sides together. Trim corner. Turn and press. Repeat for Small Tooth. Lay Main Front Bottom right side facing up. Place Big Tooth 2 ½ inches from left side. Pin. Place Small Tooth to the right. Baste. Place Main Front Bottom onto the bottom edge of Front Top, right sides together. Stitch. Flip Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press seam up and Teeth down. Topstitch to create mouth. Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
- CHILD OPTION – Press Pupil onto Eye right sides facing up. Press. Repeat for second Eye. Lay Main Front right side up. Press Eyes and Nose. Applique each piece. Draw and stitch mouth and eyelashes. To create this look, cut yarn into 60 x 11 inches lengths per side. Baste yarn onto right side of Main Front 2 ¼ inches from top edge. Repeat on left side. Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
- BUNTING OPTION – Use fabric marker to draw letters onto Flag. Or use disappearing ink pen then stitch letter. Stitch two Flags right sides together at long angled edges. Trim corner. Turn and press. Repeat for each Flag. Lay Main Bottom Front right side up. Place Flags as desired at top curved edge, matching raw edges. Baste. Place Main Front Top onto Main Bottom Front right sides together, matching curved edge at seam allowance. Stitch. Flip Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press seam up. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
- COLOR BLOCK OPTION – Place Main Front Top and Main Front Bottom pieces right sides together. Stitch. Flip Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press seam up. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Repeat for Main Back Top and Bottom. Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
- POCKET OPTION – Press top raw edge the Pocket ¼ inch to wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch. Mark center of Pocket and Main Front. Lay Main Front right side up. Place Pocket down right side facing up, matching bottom raw edges and center points. Pin center of Pocket. Stitch down center. Starting on one side, match bottom corners of Pocket to Main Front. Pin bottom edge. Pinch extra fold of fabric so that bottom raw edges match. Fold towards center of Pocket. Pin. Repeat on other side. Continue pinning sides. Baste. Follow below for the OPTIONAL Tabs or skip to step 11.
- OPTIONAL TAB – Fold Tab in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch long edge. Turn out and press. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Repeat for second Tab. Baste each Tab onto right side of Main Front 1 inch from bottom edge.
- BACKPACK CONSTRUCTION – Stitch Main Front and Front Lining right sides together at top edge. Repeat for Main Back and Back Lining. Open Front and Back pieces laying right side facing up. Measure ¾ inch from seam. Mark each side on Main Front and Back. Make second marking ½ inch from first. Place Front and Back right sides together, matching Main and Lining together. Pin all edges, leaving gap at markings. Stitch, leaving a 2-3 inch gap on bottom edge of Lining, and leaving a gap at markings. Trim corners. Turn right side out. Topstitch gap on Lining. Push Lining inside. Press. Stitch across Main and Lining ¼ inch from top and bottom edge of gap left. If you have sewn the OPTIONAL Tabs, skip to step 13. If you are adding the eyelets, follow below.
- EYELET OPTION – Stitch bottom corners at markings. Install eyelets using manufacturer’s instructions.
- DRAWSTRING – Finish ends of drawstring. Thread through channel at Front then Back on one side, and through Tab/eyelet. Knot together. Repeat on other side.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to the wrong side of your pieces. Where there are Lining pieces, apply it to the Lining. If there aren’t Lining pieces, apply it to the Main piece.
0.3OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing
Fusible webbing is recommended for the following OPTIONS: Bunny, Monster or Child. If you are using fusible webbing, follow below.
Trace the pattern pieces for all the character features you are using onto the backing of your iron-on fusible webbing. Make sure to write what each piece is on the paper side of the fusible webbing.
NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored).
Cut roughly around the fusible webbing for each pattern piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the fusible webbing has been attached to the fabric.
Apply the fusible webbing to your fabric pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using fusible webbing.
Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.
1 . Bunny OPTION1.1Place a Main and Lining Ear right sides together. Pin the curved outer edges.
1.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the straight edge open for turning.
1.3Trim the seam allowance in half.
Clip the pointy corner to reduce bulk.
Snip into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
1.4Turn right side out and press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the outer curved edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 for the second Ear.
1.5Lay a Foot right side up. Place a Paw Sole and 3x Paw Pads onto the Foot, right side up, at the pattern markings. Press.
1.6Applique the Paw pieces onto the Foot using a zigzag or a blanket stitch.
1.7Place a second Foot right side down onto the appliqued Foot. Pin the outer curved edges.
1.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the straight edge open for turning.
1.9Clip into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
1.10Turn the Foot right sides out and press.
OPTIONAL – Add some stuffing into the Feet.
Repeat steps 1.5 to 1.10 for other Foot.
1.11Place the Feet onto the bottom edge of the Main Front Bottom, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – For size S you will place these 1 ½ inches in from the side. For size L you will place these 3 inches in from the side.
NOTE – You are placing the Feet with the Paws right sides together with the Front Bottom.
1.12Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.13Fold an Ear in half lengthwise. Mark the center point along the bottom raw edge.
1.14Lay the Ear Lining right side up. Fold the sides meeting the center point.
Repeat steps 1.13 to 1.14 for the second Ear.
1.15Place the raw edge of each Ear onto the top edge of the Main Front Bottom. Pin.
NOTE – For size S you will place these 3 inches in from the side. For size L you will place these 4 inches in from the side.
1.16Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.17Place the Main Front Top onto the top edge of the Main Front Bottom, right sides together. Pin.
1.18Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Flip the Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press the seam allowance up.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
1.19Place the two cardboard Pompom pieces together, matching the gaps.
1.20Starting from the outer edge next to the gap, wrap your wool around and around all the way to the other side of the gap. The more wool you wrap, the fuller your Pompom will be.
1.21Finish wrapping at the outer edge. Trim the ends of the wool.
1.22Place the Pompom onto a flat surface. Starting at the gap, carefully cut around the circle in between the two layers, holding the wool pieces in place.
1.23Cut a long piece of wool and guide it between the two cardboard pieces. Try to keep it close to the outer edge of the Pompom.
1.24Tie a loose knot on the long thread. Gently tighten it, joining the two wool pieces together.
1.25Tighten the knot tight so your Pompom will not fall apart.
Secure it with a second knot.
Pull the cardboard away from the Pompom.
OPTIONAL – Trim the Pompom edges.
1.26Thread the long yarn through a large eye needle. Hand stitch the Pompom onto the right side of the Main Front Bottom, 3 ½ inches from the bottom edge.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
Skip to step 10.
NOTE – You cannot add the eyelet OPTION to the Bunny. You can only use the Tab OPTION because it has Feet along the bottom edge.
2 . Angel OPTION2.1Place a pair of Wings (mirror image) right sides together. Pin the outer edges.
2.2OPTIONAL – Place Wing Batting onto the wrong side of one Wing. Pin the outer edges.
2.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the straight edge for turning.
2.4Clip into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
TIP – If you have added batting, trim the seam allowance of the batting.
2.5Turn right side out and press.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the second Wing.
Use the pattern markings to stitch the Wing design. You can do this on your sewing machine or by hand. Or skip to step 2.11 if you do not want to do either.
If you are stitching by hand, skip to step 2.6.
Machine stitching – Stitch lines onto the pattern markings, or as desired, on both Wings.
2.6Hand stitching – Thread the needle with embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the Wing.
Stitch along the pattern markings using a back stitch.
Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.
2.7Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.
2.8Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.
2.9Push the needle back into the same hole as step 2.7, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.
2.10Repeat steps 2.7 to 2.9 creating a length of backstitches as desired, until you have finished stitching.
Repeat steps 2.6 to 2.10 for the second Wing.
2.11Lay the Main Front Bottom right side up. Place each Wing onto the top edge, right side facing up.
NOTE – For size S you will place these 3 inches in from the side. For size L you will place these 4 inches in from the side.
2.12Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2.13Place the Main Front Top onto the top edge of the Main Front Bottom, right sides together. Pin.
2.13Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The Wings should be sandwiched in this seam.
2.14Flip the Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press the seam allowance up.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
3 . Dragon OPTION3.1Place a pair of Wings right sides together. Pin along the outer edges.
OPTIONAL – Place Wing Batting onto the wrong side of one Wing piece.
3.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the straight short edge open for turning.
3.3Clip into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
Trim the corners to reduce bulk.
TIP – If you have added batting, trim the seam allowance of the batting.
3.4Turn right side out and press.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 for the second Wing.
Use the pattern markings to stitch the Wing design. You can do this on your sewing machine or by hand. Or skip to step 3.9 if you do not want to do either.
If you are stitching by hand, skip to step 3.5.
Machine stitching – Stitch lines onto the pattern markings, or as desired, on both Wings.
3.5Hand stitching – Thread the needle with embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the Wing.
Stitch along the pattern markings using a back stitch.
Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.
Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.
3.6Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.
3.7Push the needle back into the same hole as step 3.5, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.
3.8Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.7 creating a length of backstitches as desired, until you have finished stitching.
Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.8 for the second Wing.
3.9Lay the Main Front Bottom right side up. Place each Wing onto the top edge, right side facing up. Pin.
NOTE – For size S you will place these 3 inches in from the side. For size L you will place these 4 inches in from the side.
3.10Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
3.11Place the Main Front Top onto the top edge of the Main Front Bottom, right sides together. Pin.
3.12Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching back and forth over the Wings to secure them.
NOTE – The Wings should be sandwiched in this seam.
3.13Flip the Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press the seam allowance up.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.14Lay a Foot right side up. Place a Claw at the center of each ‘toe’. Pin.
3.15Baste using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.16Place a second Foot piece right sides together. Pin the outer edges.
3.17Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the straight edge open for turning.
3.18Snip into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
Snip in between the ‘toes’.
3.19Turn right sides out and press.
OPTIONAL – Add some stuffing into the Foot.
Repeat steps 3.14 to 3.19 for other Foot.
3.20Place each Foot onto the bottom edge of the Main Front Bottom. Pin.
NOTE – For size S you will place these 1 ½ inches in from the side. For size L you will place these 3 inches in from the side.
3.21Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
Skip to step 10.
NOTE – You cannot add the eyelet OPTION to the Dragon. You can only use the Tab OPTION because it has Feet along the bottom edge.
4 . Dinosaur OPTION4.1Place two mirror image Spikes pieces right sides together. Pin the curved edges.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.3Trim the corners to reduce bulk. Clip into the seam allowances, being careful not to cut into the stitching.
4.4Turn right sides out and press.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for each Spike.
4.5Lay a Main Front piece right side up. Place a Spike at the center edge 1 ¾ inches from the top edge, matching the straight long raw edge of the Spike. Pin.
Continue adding Spikes, one underneath the other.
NOTE – You should have at least a ½ inch gap between the last Spike and the bottom edge.
4.6Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
4.7Place the two Main Fronts right sides together, matching the center edge (where the Spikes are attached).
4.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.9Open the Main Front right side up. Press the Spikes to one side and then the other side.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
5 . Monster OPTION5.1Place a Pupil onto an Eye right sides facing up, as desired. Press.
Repeat for the second Eye.
5.2Lay the Main Front Top right side facing up. Place the Eyes, Eyebrows and Nose right side facing up, as desired. Press.
NOTE – You will need at least a ½ inch gap from the bottom edge for attaching the Front Bottom piece.
5.3Applique the Eyes, Eyebrows and Nose to the Main Front Top using a zigzag or blanket stitch. We recommend using small zigzag stitching and matching thread.
5.4Place the Big Tooth pieces right sides together. Pin the long angled sides together.
5.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the top straight edge for turning.
5.6Trim the corner to reduce bulk.
5.7Turn right side out and press.
Repeat steps 5.4 to 5.7 for the Small Tooth.
5.8Lay the Main Front Bottom right side facing up. Place the Big Tooth 2 ½ inches from the left side. Pin.
Place the Small Tooth to the right of the Big Tooth. Pin.
5.9Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
5.10Place the Main Front Bottom onto the bottom edge of the Front Top, right sides together. Pin.
5.11Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.12Flip the Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press the seam allowance up and the Teeth down.
5.13Topstitch using a contrasting thread about ⅛ inch from the seam to create the mouth.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
6 . Child OPTION6.1Place a Pupil onto an Eye right sides facing up, as desired. Press.
Repeat for the second Eye.
6.2Lay the Main Front right side up. Place Eyes and Nose as desired. Press.
6.3Applique Eyes, Eyebrows and Nose to the Main Front using a zigzag or blanket stitch. We recommend using small zigzag stitching and matching thread.
6.4Use a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk to draw the mouth.
Use the pattern marking to stitch the mouth. You can do this on your sewing machine or by hand.
If you are stitching by hand, skip to step 6.6.
6.5Machine stitching – Stitch lines onto the pattern markings.
6.6Hand stitching: Thread the needle with embroidery floss/thread and attach to the wrong side of the Front. Stitch along the pattern markings using a back stitch.
Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.
6.7Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.
6.8Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.
6.9Push the needle back into the same hole as step 6.8, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.
6.10Repeat steps 6.8 to 6.10 creating a length of backstitches as desired.
Repeat steps 6.4 to 6.10 if you would like to add eyelashes or any other features.
6.11You can use any length of yarn and any amount to create the hair. To create this look, cut your yarn into 60 x 11 inches lengths per side.
Place the yarn onto the right side of the Main Front 2 ¼ inches from the top edge.
6.12Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch across the yarn four times, each time using a slightly different stitch length to secure the yarn.
6.13Repeat steps 6.11 to 6.12 to baste yarn onto the left side.
Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
7 . Bunting OPTION7.0NOTE
OPTIONAL Letters – If you would like to add letters to your bunting follow below. If you do not wish to add letters, skip to step 7.7.
NOTE – Size S can have a maximum number of seven Flags. Size L can have a maximum number of ten Flags.
7.1Use a fabric marker to draw a letter onto a Flag. Then, skip to step 7.7.
If you would prefer to stitch the letter on, use a disappearing ink pen to draw these on. Then stitch the letter using your sewing machine or hand stitch the letters.
Machine stitching – Stitch lines onto the pattern markings, on each Flags.
For hand stitching, follow below.
7.2Hand stitching – Thread the needle with embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the Flag. Stitch along the pattern markings using a back stitch.
Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.
7.3Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.
7.4Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.
7.5Push the needle back into the same hole as step 7.3, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.
7.6Repeat steps 7.2 to 7.5 creating a length of backstitches as desired.
7.7Place two Flags right sides together. Pin the long angled edges.
NOTE – If you are adding letters, you will need one plain Flag and one with a letter.
7.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the top edge open for turning.
7.9Trim the corner to reduce bulk.
7.10Turn right side out and press.
7.11Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.10 for each Flag.
7.12Lay the Main Bottom Front right side up. Place Flags as desired at the top curved edge, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – You will need at least a ½ inch gap at each end.
7.13Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
7.14Place the Main Front Top onto the Main Bottom Front right sides together, matching the curved edge at the seam allowance. Pin.
TIP – Use lots of pins and ease the pieces together.
NOTE – The Main Front Top and Main Bottom Front should match at the ½ inch seam allowance so there will be a triangle corner sticking out on one of the pieces.
7.15Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.16Flip the Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press the seam allowance up.
7.17OPTIONAL – Topstitch using a contrasting thread about ⅛ inch from the seam.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
8 . Color Block OPTION8.1Place the Main Front Top and Main Front Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin.
8.2Stitch using a ½ seam allowance.
8.3Flip the Main Front Top piece right side facing up. Press the seam allowance up.
8.4OPTIONAL – Topstitch ⅛ inch from the seam.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.4 for the Main Back Top and Bottom pieces.
NOTE – You will now treat these as one Main Front piece and one Main Back piece.
Skip to step 10 for the OPTIONAL Tabs or to step 11.
9 . Pocket OPTION9.1Fold the top raw edge of the Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
9.2Fold another ¼ inch and press.
9.3Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
9.4Fold the Pocket in half and mark the center.
9.5Repeat step 9.4 on the Main Front to find the center line.
9.6Lay the Main Front right side up. Place the Pocket down right side facing up, matching bottom raw edges and center points. Pin along the center of the Pocket.
NOTE – The Pocket piece is wider than the Main Front. This is correct. The Pocket has a pleat in it which is the reason it is wider.
9.7Stitch the Pocket to the Main Front along the center.
9.8Starting on one side, match the bottom corners of the Pocket to the Main Front. Pin the bottom edge.
NOTE – You are pinning from the corner towards the center stitching of the Pocket.
There will be an extra fold of fabric close to the center of the Pocket. Pinch it so that the bottom raw edges of the Pocket and Main Front match. Fold it towards the center of the Pocket, creating a mini pleat. Pin.
NOTE – You do not need to press this pleat. It just creates a little extra space inside your Pocket.
9.9Repeat step 9.8 on the other side of the Pocket.
9.10Continue pinning the sides of the Pocket to the Main Front.
9.11Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
Follow below for the OPTIONAL Tabs or skip to step 11.
10 . OPTIONAL Tab10.0NOTE
If you are sewing the Bunny or Dragon these cannot have the eyelet OPTION as they have Feet along the bottom edge. All other OPTIONS can have the Tab or Eyelet OPTION. If you are adding the Tabs, follow below. If you are adding the Eyelet, skip step 11.
The Tabs are added to the sides of the drawstring backpack and the drawstring cord is threaded through these.
10.1Fold a Tab in half lengthwise right sides together. Pin the long edge.
10.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.3Turn right side out and press.
10.4OPTIONAL –Topstitch one or both long edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Alternatively, you can stitch decorative stitches.
Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.5 for the second Tab piece.
10.5Fold each tab in half. Then, place each tab on either side edge of the right side of the Main Front piece, 1 inch from the bottom. Pin.
10.6Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
11 . Backpack Construction11.0NOTE – This step is the same for all OPTIONS.
11.1Place the Main Front and Front Lining right sides together. Pin the top edge.
11.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
11.3Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.2 for the Main Back and Back Lining.
11.4Open the Front and Back pieces laying right side facing up.
Measure ¾ inch from the seam. Mark each side on the Main Front and Back. Make a second marking ½ inch from the first marking. This will be used to create the channel for the drawstring.
11.5Place the Front and Back right sides together, matching the Main pieces together and Lining pieces together. Pin all edges, leaving the gap for the channel (shown with pins).
NOTE – Check that all extra pieces like Hair, Feet, Wings etc. are inside and out of the way so that the do not get caught in the stitching.
11.6Stitch all around using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-3 inch gap on the bottom edge of the Lining for turning, and leaving a gap where you have marked for the channel.
Press the seam allowances open at the gaps along the edges for the channel. Pressing the seam allowance open will help the cord move freely out of the gap.
TIP – If you have added Tabs, stitch back and forth over these a few times to secure them.
11.7Trim the corners to reduce bulk.
11.8Turn the backpack right sides out.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
11.9Pin the gap on the Lining closed.
11.10Topstitch the gap using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
11.11Push the Lining inside. Press the top edge along the seam joining the outer to lining and push the bottom corners of the lining into the bottom corners of the backpack.
11.12You are going to create the channel for the drawstring to thread through. Pin the Front Main and Lining together ¼ inch from the bottom edge of the gap left.
Repeat with the Back Main and Lining.
11.13Stitch the Main and Lining together on the bottom edge of the gap from the left on the Front and Back.
TIP – You can use a decorative stitch here with a contrasting thread to show the details.
11.14Repeat steps 11.12 to 11.13 pinning ¼ inch from the top markings and stitching between the upper markings.
If you have sewn the OPTIONAL Tabs, skip to step 13. If you are adding the eyelets, follow below.
12 . Eyelet OPTION12.1Mark the bottom corners using the pattern markings and a disappearing fabric marker.
TIP – If your eyelets are wider than ½ inch, make the size of the triangle bigger.
12.2Stitch across the Front and Back at the pattern markings.
12.3Using the manufacturer’s instructions install the eyelets at the pattern markings at each side.
13 . Drawstring13.1If you are using nylon drawstring, burn the ends to prevent them from fraying.
NOTE – Be careful not to burn anything else.
13.2Thread one length of drawstring through a safety pin.
13.3Starting at the Front right side, thread the drawstring through the channel all the way around and through the Back.
13.4Take one end of the drawstring and thread it through the Tab / eyelet.
NOTE – We are showing the Tab option, however the eyelet option process is the same.
13.5Take both end of the drawstring and knot them together.
Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.5, threading the drawstring from the Front left side and threading it through in the opposite direction/
Your Magical Drawstring Backpack is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Cut Files
File Types
We have included three to four file types for you to choose from. Please choose whichever you are more familiar with or works best with your cutting machine. For cut files of the smaller pieces for some of our patterns, like the Dolls House Quiet Book and Add-on, we do not include a PDF copy. All versions come with .SVG, .PNG, and .DXF.
You will start by downloading the files from your account. Open your software and choose the file type you’d like to work with.
Pattern Cut Files
When working with cut files to cut small pattern pieces, it is imperative that you make sure the file is the correct size prior to cutting. We have included a one-inch square box offset in each file. You should be able to move the square off to the side, so it isn’t cut with the rest of your file. For files that also have square pieces, please be sure to compare them to the cut chart in the original file instructions. We’d always prefer you double check than have something cut out that isn’t useable!
Other Cut Files
For all other cut files, you should resize to your project needs. Please do keep in mind the size of some of the features. Going very small may make it difficult to cut smaller fonts or finer details.
Media
As mentioned earlier, it is very important to choose the correct media to for your cut. There is a huge selection to choose from and it can be overwhelming. Be sure to use the materials suggested by your machine for the type of project you are completing.
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Magical Drawstring Backpack is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpmagicalbackpack
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing Information
Project Overview
Magical Drawstring Backpack
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This super cute backpack pattern has two sizes to choose from; small or large. You can attach the drawstring cord through a tab or an eyelet at the bottom on either side. This threads through the top of the backpack to close it. You can color block the front or add a pocket. Or choose a cute character or bunting to sew.
Sizing
Size Range
Bag
Finished Measurements (Inches)
| Width | Height | |
| S | 10.50 | 11.50 |
| L | 13.00 | 16.00 |
Materials and Tools
Fabric – You will need a woven or non-stretch fabric. Cotton, quilting cotton, denim, cotton lawn, canvas, even upholstery fabric would work.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
| All OPTIONS | Color Block OPTION | Monster | Dragon OPTION | Angel | Bunny OPTION | |||||||
| Main | Lining | Color 1 | Color 2 | Pocket OPTION | Monster / Child / Dinosaur / Bunting OPTION: Features | Wings | Feet | Claws | Angel OPTION: Wings | Ears | Other Features | |
| S | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.25 | 0.25 | Scraps | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.25 | 0.25 | Scraps |
| L | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.25 | 0.50 | Scraps | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.25 | 0.50 | Scraps |
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
| All OPTIONS | Color Block OPTION | Monster | Dragon OPTION | Angel | Bunny OPTION | |||||||
| Main | Lining | Color 1 | Color 2 | Pocket OPTION | Monster / Child / Dinosaur / Bunting OPTION: Features | Wings | Feet | Claws | Angel OPTION: Wings | Ears | Other Features | |
| S | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.25 | 0.25 | Scraps | 0.25 | 0.25 | Scraps | 0.25 | 0.25 | Scraps |
| L | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.25 | 0.50 | Scraps | 0.50 | 0.25 | Scraps | 0.50 | 0.25 | Scraps |
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
- ⅛ inch Drawstring cord – you will need approximately:
- Size S – 3 yards
- Size L – 3.5 yards
- NOTE – If you use a Drawstring cord that is wider than ⅛ inch, you will need to make the channel deeper than the pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL Interfacing – If you are using a lightweight fabric and would like a little more structure to your backpack you can use a light to medium weight interfacing. The amount you need will depend on the pieces you are interfacing. You will need the same amount of interfacing as your fabric amount listed above.
- Eyelet OPTION – 2x ½ inch wide eyelet hardware
- OPTIONAL Fusible webbing for the characters. You will need a small amount for the Eyes, Nose, Pupils, Eyebrows and Paw pieces.
- Angel / Dragon OPTION – You will need 0.25 yards of lightweight batting for the Wings.
- Bunny OPTION – You will need yarn to create a pompom tail. You can either buy a ready-made pompom, or if you would like to make your own you will need:
- You could use any thickness of yarn and as much or as little as you like. The thicker your yarn or the more you use, the fuller your pompom will be
- We used less than 1 ball/skeins of yarn in this tutorial.
- Alternatively, you can use any non-fraying fabric for the pompom (e.g., felt, fleece, lycra, fake fur, leather, yarn suiting), or use any other ribbon or trim you like.
- A great idea is to mix and match yarn colors, fabric colors or mix and match fabric with a yarn or ribbon/cord/trim!
- Child OPTION – You will need less than 1 ball/skein of yarn. You will need 120 cut lengths, each 11 inches long. If you have scrap yarn this would be perfect to use up.
- OPTIONAL Stuffing – This can be added to the Bunny or Dragon feet. You will need a handful of stuffing.
- Bunting OPTION – You can use fabric paint/markers to draw on letters, embroider them with embroidery thread or use Heat Transfer Vinyl if you wish.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, safety pin or bodkin, tailors chalk or disappearing ink fabric pen. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.