Magical Round Purse

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing

Trace the pattern pieces for all the characters details you are using onto the backing of your fusible webbing. Write what each piece is on the paper side of the fusible webbing.

NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored).

Cut roughly around the fusible webbing for each pattern piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the fusible webbing has been attached to the fabric.

Group the fusible webbing pieces into colors (e.g. put all of the blacks together, all of the white together, and so on).

Keeping pieces grouped by color, apply the fusible webbing to your fabric pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using fusible webbing.

Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.

Unicorn OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.

• Eyes to Main Front
• Nose to Main Front

Then skip to the Batting preparation step if adding, or to step 1.

Doll OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.

• Eyeglow to Pupils
• Pupils to Eyecolor
• Eyecolor to Eyeballs
• Eyes to Main Front
• Hair to Main Front
• Eyelashes to Main Front
• Eyebrows to Main Front
• Nose to Main Front
• Inner Mouth to Lips
• Lips to Main Front

Then skip to the Batting preparation step if adding, or to step 2.

Cat OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.

• Pupils to Eyes
• Inner Ears to Outer Ears
• Eyes to Main Front
• Nose to Main Front

Then skip to the Batting preparation step if adding, or to step 3.

OPTIONAL Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron interfacing onto the wrong side of your pattern pieces.

OPTIONAL Batting

Place your cut out pattern pieces onto the batting. Pin in place.

NOTE – Do not leave any unpinned areas bigger than your palm. This will hold the layers together ready for quilting.

Cut the batting bigger than the pattern piece.

NOTE

Choose the style you would like to sew and begin at that step.

Stitch around the Eyes and Nose using a straight stitch, zigzag stitch or blanket stitch.

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.

Repeat step 1.1 to stitch around the Inner Ear on an Outer Ear piece.

NOTE – This will now be treated as one Outer Ear piece.

Place the two Outer Ear pieces right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Check you are attaching one Outer Ear with an Inner Ear, and one without. Do not attach two of the same together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the bottom edge open for turning through.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Trim the top corner to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the outside edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.7 for the second Ear.

Place the two Horn pieces right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the bottom edge open for turning through.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Trim the top corner to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the outside edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Place the Horn and Ears onto the Main Front piece right sides together, matching raw edges.

Match Unicorn Face Top center with Horn Bottom center. Pin.

Place the Ears just next to the Horn. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Flowers, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Flowers, skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 5 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 6 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 7 for OPTIONAL Trim.

Skip to step 8 to continue construction of the purse.

OPTIONAL Flowers – To achieve this look, we have layered a Big Flower, Little Flower, and a Little Circle.

Start Layering one Big Flower, Little Flower and Small Circle. Stitch.

If you desire to have a double sided Flower place the 2 Big Flowers (the already layered and stitched one and one plain) wrong sides together.

Stitch.

Repeat for as many flowers and combinations you desire.

Pin where you want them to be. Be sure to place them away from the seam allowance so they don’t get caught when sewing the purse. Stitch each one.

You can sew using your machine and stitching a bar tack in the middle of each flower.

TIP – You can secure it together by hand stitching a button on the top.

This is now considered the Unicorn Front Piece.

Skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 5 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 6 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 7 for OPTIONAL Trim.

Skip to step 8 to continue construction of the purse.

Stitch around each pattern feature using a straight stitch, zigzag stitch or blanket stitch.

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.

Place the Headband on top of Hair and pin.

Stitch in place.

Iron/glue/place Bow/Knot onto the spare fabric.

Stitch together. Then cut around so it is double sided.

Place Bow Center on top of Bow/Knot.

Place the Bow/Knot by the Markings or as desired.

Stitch in place.

This is now considered the Doll Front Piece.

Skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 5 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 6 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 7 for OPTIONAL Trim.

Skip to step 8 to continue construction of the purse.

Stitch around the Eyes and Nose using a straight stitch, zigzag stitch or blanket stitch.

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.

Machine embroider the Cat whiskers and mouth using the pattern markings and a contrasting thread. Alternatively, hand stitch the whiskers using backstitches.

To backstitch by hand, thread the needle and attach it to the wrong side of the Front.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.

Push the needle back into the same hole, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.

Repeat the previous steps creating a length of backstitches as desired.

Repeat step 3.1 to stitch around the Inner Ear on an Outer Ear piece.

NOTE – This will now be treated as one Outer Ear piece.

Place the two Outer Ear pieces right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Check you are attaching one Outer Ear with an Inner Ear, and one without. Do not attach two of the same together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the bottom edge open for turning through.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Trim the top corner to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the outside edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.8 for the second Ear.

Place the Ears onto the Main Front piece at the pattern markings, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

This is now considered the Cat Front Piece.

Skip to step 4 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 5 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 6 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 7 for OPTIONAL Trim.

Skip to step 8 to continue construction of the purse.

We recommend quilting your batting to your fabric pieces to prevent them from moving.

If you do not wish to quilt, skip to step 4.3 to baste the pieces together.

Skip to step 5 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 6 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 7 for OPTIONAL Trim.

Skip to step 10 to continue construction of the purse.

This is not traditional quilting – you will not be sandwiching the batting in between two layers and quilting it together. You are only quilting the batting to one pattern piece to prevent it from moving.

Quilt the Main and batting pieces together using your chosen design.

Be careful not to stitch into the rectangle of the zip pocket if you are doing that option.

TIP – If you are sewing the Unicorn, Doll, or Cat OPTIONS, you may not want to quilt the Front pieces. If you do quilt, be careful not to quilt over any of the features, pockets, or pocket markings/placements. Make sure any features are out of the way.

Cut your batting to the same size as the pattern piece.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 for all pieces with batting.

OPTIONAL – Baste the Main and batting pieces together at the outer edges, as close as you can to the raw edge.

If you have quilted your pattern pieces, cut your batting to the same size as the pattern piece.

If you have chosen not to quilt, you can trim the seam allowance off the batting pieces before basting. This reduces bulk in the seams.

This pocket can be added to the front of a plain OPTION, or you can also add it to the Back of any option. These steps show how to attach the Zipper Pocket to the Front. If you are only attaching it to the Back, follow the same steps but using the Main Back piece instead of the Main Front.

Lay the Main Front piece right side facing up. Place the Rectangle on top, right sides together, matching pattern markings. Pin.

Stitch around the Rectangle.

TIP – When you reach a corner, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the pieces. Lower the presser foot and stitch down the short side.

Draw a line down the center of the rectangle, stopping ½ inch from each end.

Draw a line connecting the end of the straight line to each corner, creating Y shapes at each end of the line.

Carefully snip through both layers along the middle line, then the corners on each end. Take careful, slow snips to the corners, getting close to the stitches without cutting through them.

Push the Rectangle through the opening and press until the Front lays smooth and flat. Pin.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Rectangle in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will keep the seam allowance in place and can be especially helpful if you are using a heavy weight or faux leather fabric.

Place the zipper behind the opening created. Pin.

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting while sewing, apply washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

Topstitch around the opening using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Stitch slowly over the zipper teeth.

NOTE – Check you have stitched the little triangles at the end of the Rectangle when topstitching.

If needed, trim the zipper tails.

Turn the Main Front wrong side facing up. Place the Pocket piece right side down matching the bottom short edge to the bottom long edge of the Rectangle piece. Pin.

NOTE – You are only pinning the Zipper Pocket and Zipper Pocket Rectangle pieces together.

Stitch the pinned edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Only sew the Pocket pieces together. Check to be sure the Main Front hasn’t been caught in the stitching.

Flip the Pocket down. Place the other short edge of the Zipper Pocket onto the top long edge of the Rectangle, right side down. Pin.

Pin the side edges of the Pocket together.

Stitch the pinned edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are only sewing the Pocket pieces together. Check you have not caught the Main Front into the stitching.

OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edges of the Pocket using a serger or zigzag/overlock stitch on a regular machine.

If you are adding a Zipper Pocket to the Back, repeat steps 5.1 to 5.12 to attach the Pocket to the Main Back.

Continue to step 6 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 7 for OPTIONAL Trim.

Skip to step 8 to continue construction of the purse.

There are two OPTIONS to choose from – Phone Pocket, a bigger one and a Cards/Lipstick Pocket. You can also add any kind of Pocket you desire by creating your own pocket pattern piece and following the steps bellow.

Either pocket option can be added to one or both Bag Lining pieces.

If making the Phone Pocket start at step 6.1. If making the Cards/Lipstick Pocket, skip to step 6.9.

Fold the Pocket in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch along the raw edge using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2 to 3 inch gap along the bottom edge for turning.

Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn the Phone Pocket right sides out.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Press the Pocket.

TIP – Make sure the seam allowance for the gap left for turning is fully inside the Pocket, creating a smooth line along the bottom edge.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the folded top edge using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Lay the Bag Lining right sides up. Find the center of both the Bag Lining and Phone Pocket. Measure 3 inches down from the top edge of the Bag Lining.

Place the Phone Pocket onto the Bag Lining, matching centers (horizontal and vertical). Pin along the sides and bottom.

Topstitch around both sides and the bottom edge, using ⅛ seam allowance, enclosing the gap left for turning.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.8 if adding a Slat Pocket to the other Bag Lining piece.

Lay the Bag Lining right sides up. Find the center of both the Bag Lining and Slat Pocket. Measure 4 inches down from the top edge of the Bag Lining.

Place the Slat Pocket onto the Bag Lining, matching centers, and the top of the Slat Pocket to the marking. Pin along the sides and bottom.

Topstitch around both sides and the bottom edge, using ⅛ seam allowance, enclosing the gap left for turning.

Mark your preferred Slat Pocket widths. Pin in place.

NOTE – For the tutorial purposes, we created two “lipstick sized widths” with a Large Slat Pocket.

This is just an example of the size and widths that could be created.

Continue to step 7 for OPTIONAL Trim.

Skip to step 8 to continue construction of the purse.

Trims can be added. If you are not adding Trim, skip to step 8. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Trim, follow below.

Lay the Front Pattern Piece right side facing up. Place the trim along the edge, right sides facing, with the decorative part of the trim facing down. Pin.

NOTE – If your trim is narrower than the ½ inch seam allowance, make sure you are placing it within the seam allowance.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 for the other side.

Place the Zipper right side facing up, and lay the Main Top Side on top, right side facing down. Pin.

NOTE – The zipper teeth should start ½ inch from the edge.

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

Using a zipper foot, or a regular foot with the needle in the left position and the edge of the foot against the teeth, stitch along the zipper tape, using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 to attach the other Main Top Side piece to the other side of the zipper.

NOTE – If your zipper is longer than the Top Side pieces, trim it so that it is the same size. Use a bar tack at the end to create a new zipper stop.

This will now be your Main Top Piece.

Fold a D-Ring Tab in half lengthwise right sides together and pin the long edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn your D-Ring Tab right way out and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch one or both long sides of the D-Ring Tab using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Thread the D-Ring Tab through your D-ring. Fold it in half. Pin.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch close to the D-ring to keep it in place.

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.6 for the second D-Ring Tab.

Center the D-ring Tabs onto the Top Main piece, right sides facing upwards. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 9.7 to 9.8 for the second D-Ring Tab for the other side of the Zipper.

Place a Main Bottom Piece and the Main Top Piece right sides together. Pin one side at the short edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.2 to attach the other side of the Top and Bottom pieces together, until you have one piece. We will call it the side piece from this point.

Find and mark the center on both raw edges of the Main Top and Main Bottom.

Find and mark the quarter parts of Front and Back Pieces.

NOTE – Mark the quarter points with pins or make small snips.

Place the Front piece onto the Side piece right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.

NOTE – Check that the D-Ring Tabs are out of the way so that they do not get stitched into the seam.

Ease it all around and add as much pins as desired.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Open the zipper on the Side piece. You will need this opening for turning the purse.

Repeat steps 10.5 to 10.7 to attach the other side of the Side piece to the Main Front.

NOTE – Check you are attaching the Side piece the right way around. If you have added the Outer Pocket, you want to make sure the top of the pocket is facing up.

Clip into the curved edges, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Press Fold the Bottom Side Lining ¼ inch to the wrong side on both long sides. Press to create a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Lining. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when stitching it together.

Press the long edges on both sides of the Top Side Lining ½ inch to the wrong side. This will make it easier to slipstitch to the purse later on.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.4 with the lining pieces.

Repeat steps 10.5 to 10.7 to stich the lining Front to the Lining Side.

Repeat step 11.3 to stich the other side of Lining.

Clip into the curved edges, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn the Lining wrong side out. Drop the Purse Lining inside the Main Purse, wrong sides together, matching opening centers. Pin.

Continue pinning along the zipper tape, easing the pieces together.

Topstitch along the memory hem, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

If using webbing instead of a fabric strap, skip to step 14.

Fold the Long Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin one short edge and the long raw edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are leaving one short edge unstitched for turning.

Turn your Handle right way out. If you have a preferred method to do this, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Open the seam allowance stitched in step 3.2. Insert the top of the chopstick to the stitching. Push the Handle over the chopstick, pushing it all the way over the chopstick, until it is turned right side out. Push the chopstick back out through the gap.

Press.

Press.

Topstitch each long edge using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

OPTIONAL – Stitch additional rows of topstitching as you prefer.

These steps are shown with a fabric strap. If you prefer to use webbing, please cut to length and follow the steps below.

Thread the end of the strap through the D-Ring. Fold the short edge ½”. Fold it another ½ “.

Pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Thread the strap through each side of the slider.

Thread the other end of the strap through the opposite D-Ring.

Then thread it back through both side of the slider.

Fold the end of the webbing over by ½ inch. Then again by ½ inch.

Flip it over the slider.

Pin or clip in place.

Stitch along the folded edge.

Your Magical Round Purse is finished!